IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaily  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  chcicked  be*«^w. 


D 


v/ 


D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


I      I    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 


Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  dn  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires; 


L'institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

n    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


D 

D 


Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  ddcolordes,  tachet6es  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualit6  in^gale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  matdriel  suppldmentaire 


r~}  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~~]  Showthrough/ 

I      i  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~~|  Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pagos  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  i  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 


10X 

14X 

18X 

i*""  " 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

laire 
s  ddtails 
ques  du 
It  modifier 
[iger  une 
e  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanits 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  Images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


1/ 
u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  fiim6s  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUiVRE  ".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


lire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seui  cliche,  11  est  film6  d  partir 
de  !'angle  supirleur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  dc  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


by  errata 
led  to 

mt 

me  pelure, 

a^on  d 


1  2  3 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

wo  SimkRD  AUTHORS. 


(Form  No.  -19.) 

BUFFALO  PUBLIC  SCHOOL  LIBRARY. 


0-^ 


Books  are  to  be  delivered  only  to  inhabitants  of  ihe 
District. 

Only  one  can  be  delivered  to  one  person  at  a  time. 

Any  one  having  a  book  out  of  the  Library  must  re- 
turn it  before  he  can  receive  anciher. 

No  person  under  age  cau  be  permitted  to  take  a 
book  unless  he  resides  with  some  responsible  inhabit- 
ant of  the  District. 

Every  book  must  be  returned  to  the  Library  within 
fourteen  days  after  it  shall  have  been  taken  out. 

For  the  detention  or  injury  of  books  the  following 
fines  will  be  imposed: 

For  each  day's  detention  pf  a  book  beyond  the  time 
allowed  by  these  regulations,  six  cents.  , 

For  the  loss  or  destruction  of  a  book,  a  fine  equal 
to  its  full  value. 

For  every  spot  of  grease  or  oil  upon  the  cover  or 
leaf  of  any  book,  six  cents. 

For  writing  in,  cutting,  or  otherwise  defacing  any 
book,  rendering  it  unfit  for  use,  not  less  than  ten  cents 
nor  more  than  the  value  of  the  book. 

^^A\\  persons  receiving  books  from  the  Library 
are  requested  to  read  the  regulations  prescribed  by 
law.  /L 

Di strict  No.     ^  C-/— 


.■ 


• 


rWiJkV/AJl* 


PETER  PAUL 

BOOK  CO., 
BUFFALO,-  N.Y. 


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or 


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N.Y. 


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Its 

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1 

^T.  DENI5  HOTEL, 

\fY=>     BROADWAY  AND  ELEVENTH  ST. 

Apposite  Grace  Church,  NEW  YORK. 

The  most  centrally  located  hotel  in 
the  city,  conducted  on  the  European 
plan,  at  moderate  prices.  Recently 
enlarged  by  a  new  and  handsome  ad- 
dition that  doubles  its  former  capacity. 
The  new  Dining  Room  is  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  Colonial  Decoration 
in  this  country, 

WILLIAM  TAYLOR. 

Better  go  to  Halifax. 

It  is  the  most  direct  way  to  reach  all  points  in  Nova  Scotia,  Cape 
Breton,  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland.  Besides,  you  will 
be  ONLY  ONE  NIGHT  AT  SEA,  and  can  travel  by  the  safest, 
m^st  comfortable,  and  speediest  steamer  .^ailing  out  of  Boston  for 
those  points,  being  the  well-known  and  popular 

CANADA  ATLANTIC  LINE  STEAMER 

"HALIFAX." 

Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Breton  have  become  the  ideal  Summer 
Resorts,  and  thousands  are  floCking  thither.  Sailings  are  made  from 
the  Savannah  Pier.  North  side  of  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  every 
SATURDAY,  AT  NOON.  For  more  frequent  sailings  during 
the  Summer  see  dailv  pa|)ers. 

Tickets  may  be  obtained  of  A.  DeW.  SAMPSON,  306  Washing- 
ton  St.,  and  of  the  Agents, 

RICHARDSON   &   BARNARD, 

20  Atlantic  Ave.,  Boston. 


Unlike  the  Dutch  Process 

No  Alkalies 


-OR — 


Other  Chemicals 

are  used  in  the 
preparation  of 

W.  Baker  &  Co.'s 

Breakfast  Cocoa 

ivhich  is  absolutely  pure  and  soluble,       ,     ,, 

It  has  more  than  three  times  the  strength  of  Cocoa  mixed 
with  starch,  arrowroot,  or  sugar,  and  is  far  more  economical, 

COSTING  LESS  THAN  ONE  CENT  A  CUP. 

It  is  delicious,  nourishing,  and 

EASILY  DIGESTED. 

The  use  of  chemicals  in  cocoa  made  by  the  Dutch  process 
can  be  readily  detected  by  the  peculiar  odor  from  newly  opened 
packages,  and  also  from  a  glass  of  water  in  which  a  small 
quantity  of  chemically  treated  cocoa  has  been  placed  and 
allowed  to  remain  for  several'  days. 

For  more  than  One  Hundred  Years  the 
house  of  Walter  Baker  &  Co.  have  made 
their  Cocoa  Preparations  Absolutely 
Pure,  using  NO  Patent  Process,  Alka- 
lies, or  Dyes. 


W.  BAKER  &  CO.,  Dorchester,  Mass. 


I 


B; 


MARITIME   PROVINCES: 

A      — -~ 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 

A  GUIDE  TO 


THE  CHIEF  CITIES,  COASTS,  AND    ISLANDS  OF  THE    MARITIME  PROV- 
INCES OF  CANADA,  AND  TO  THEIR  SCENERY   AND  HISTORIC 
ATTRACTIONS  ;  WITH  THE  GULF  AND  RIVER  OF  ST. 
LAWRENCE  TO  QUEBEC  AND   MONTREAL; 
ALSO,  NEWFOUNDLAND  AND  THE 
LABRADOR    COAST. 

With  Four  Maps  and  Four  Plarts, 

NINTH    EDITION,   REVISED   AND    ENLARGED. 


The  timetables  of  the  Provincial  steamers  are  liable  to  change.  Intend- 
ing tourists  should  urrite  to  the  agents  of  the  International^  Yarmouth,  and 
Prince-Edward  Island  lines,  at  Boston,  for  their  latest  folders,  showing 
times  qf  sailing,  excursion-rates,  etc. 


BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK : 
HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  AND  COMPANY. 

1893 


fC  1^^^' 


S") 


(§1 


Copyright,  1876  and  1884, 
By  JAMES  R.   OSGOOD  &  CO. 

Copyright,  1888, 
By  TICKNOR  &  CO. 

Copyright,  1891  and  1892, 
By  HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  &  CO. 


SUPPLEMENT  FOR  1893. 


r 


The  practical  consolidation  in  1893  of  the  Nova-Scotia  and  Florida 
fleets  of  merchant  steamships,  in  the  Plant  system,  has  wrought 
great  changes  in  the  routes  and  times  of  sea  communication  between 
Boston  and  Halifax,  etc.  Better  accommodations  are  offered,  as  to 
time  and  as  to  ships.  The  final  details  will  not  be  wrought  out  until 
summer,  and  can  then  be  learned  from  the  Boston  newspapers  and  the 
Pathfinder  Railway  Guide. 

Basin  of  Minas  (page  101).  The  steamboat  Hiawatha  runs  one  trip 
weekly  between  Hantsport  and  Parrsboro'  ;  and  once  weekly  from 
Hantsport  to  St.  John^ 

Pictoa  (page  187).  A  steamer  leaves  every  Wednesday  for  Arisaig, 
Cape  George,  Port  Hood,  Mabou,  Margaree,  and  Cheticamp  (see,  also, 
page  168). 

Charlottetown  (page  175).     Steamboats  leave  daily  for  Pictou. 

Sammerside  (page  179).  Steamers  rim  daily  between  Summerside 
and  Point  du  ChSne. 

St.  John's.  Newfoundland  (page  190).  The  most  interesting  part  of 
the  city,  including  the  Anglican  Cathedral  and  many  other  fine  build- 
ings, was  burned  in  1892. 

Quebec  (page  255).  A  great  new  hotel  has  been  erected  on  ihe 
Dufferin  Terrace. 


PREFACE. 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  to  the  Maritime  Provinces 
is  to  supply  the  place  of  a  guide  in  a  land  where  professional 
guides  cannot  be  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  gaining 
the  greatest  possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  information  while 
passing  through  the  most  interesting  portions  of  Eastern  British 
America.  The  St.  Lawrence  Provinces  have  been  hitherto  casu- 
ally treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  (the 
best  of  which  have  long  been  out  of  print),  and  the  Atlantic 
Provinces  have  as  yet  received  but  little  attention  of  this  kind. 
The  present  guide-book  is  the  first  v  hich  has  been  devoted  to 
their  treatment  in  a  combined  form  and  according  to  the  most 
approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar  purpose 
and  character.  It  also  includes  descriptions  of  the  remote  and 
interesting  coasts  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  which  have 
never  before  been  mentioned  in  works  of  this  character.  The 
Handbook  is  designed  to  enable  travellers  to  visit  any  or  all 
of  the  notable  places  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  with  economy 
of  money,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving  lists  of  the  hotels  with 
their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various  routes  by  land  and  water, 
and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal  cities.  The  letter-press 
contains  epitomes  of  the  histories  of  the  cities  and  the  ancient 
settlements  along  the  coast,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  architecture  of  the  cities, 
and  statistics  of  the  chief  industries  of  the  included  Provinces. 
The  brilliant  and  picturesque  records  and  traditions  of  the  early 
French  and  Scottish  colonies,  and  the  heroic  exploits  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries,  have  received  special  attention  in  connection 
with  the  localities  made  famous  in  those  remote  days  ;  and  the 
remarkable  legends  and  mythology  of  the  Micmac  Indians  ar« 


IV 


PREFACE. 


incorpomted  with  the  accounts  of  the  places  made  classic  by 
them  The  naval  and  military  operations  of  the  wars  which 
centred  on  P<it  Royal,  L(jiiisbour;^%  and  Quelxic  have  been  con- 
densetl  from  the  ])e.st  aiithoritic^s,  and  the  mournful  events  which 
are  commemorated  in  "  Kvangeline  "  are  herein  analyzed  and 
recorded.  Tlie  noble  coast-scenery  and  the  fav(jrite  snmmer- 
voyages  with  wliich  the  northern  seas  abound  have  been  de- 
scribed at  length  in  these  pages. 

The  plan  and  structure  of  the  book,  its  system  of  treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which  have 
made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Europe,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotels,  and  scenic  attractions  have  been  framed  or 
verified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  many 
months  of  almost  incessant  travelling  for  this  express  purpose. 
But  infallibility  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  nature,  especial- 
ly amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America, 
and  hence  the  Editor  would  be  grateful  for  any  bona  fide  cor- 
rections or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents 
may  favor  him. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  They  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  figures,  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  hotels  indicated  by 
asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed  by  the  Editor  to  be  the 


moot  comfortable  and  elegant. 


M.  F.  SWEETSER, 

Car    of  Houghton^  Mifflin  Sp  Co. 
4  Park  St.,  Boston. 


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CONTENTS. 


PAO 


I.  Plan  of  Tour 

II,  Newfoundland  and  Laurapor  . 

III.  Money  and  Travellino  Expenses 

IV.  Railways  and  Steamboats. 
V.  Round-Trip  Excursions  . 

VI.  Hotels 

VII.  Language 

VIII.  Climate  and  Dress 
IX.  Fishing 


X.  Miscellaneous  Notes 


NEW  BRUNST7ICK. 

route 

General  Notes 

1.  St.  John 

2.  The  Environs  of  St.  John 

1.  Lily  Lake.     Marsh  Road 

2.  Mispeck  Road.     Suspeusiou  Bridge 

3.  Carleton 

8.  St.  John  to  Eastfort  and  St.  Stephen.    Tassamaquoddy  Bay 

4.  Grand  Manan 

78.  Campobello 

5.  St.  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen.     Passamaquoddy  Bay 

1.  St.  George.     Lake  Utopia 

2.  St.  Andrews.     Charncook  Mountain 

3.  St.  Stephen.     Schoodic  Ijakes 

6.  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton 

7.  St.  John  to  Bangor 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton.    The  St.  John  River   .... 

1.  Kennebecasis  Bay 

2.  Belleisle  Bay 

8.  Fredericton 

4.  Fredericton  to  Miraniichi 

9.  Washademoak  Lake 

10.  Grand  Lake 

11.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock 

12.  Fredericton  to  W^oodstock,  by  the  St.  John  River    . 

13.  Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  Riviere  du  Loup    .       .        .        . 


8 
8 
9 


13 
15 
22 
22 
23 
84 
25 
28 
30a 
30 
82 
88 
35 
36 
37 
89 
40 
42 
44 
46 
47 
48 
49 
61 

A 


^ 


t 


vi  .  CONTENTS. 

/ 

V 
BOUTE  PAGE 

1.  Tobique  to  Bathurst 54 

2.  The  St.  Jolin  to  the  Restigouche 66 

8.  The  Madawaska  District 67 

4.  The  Maine  Woods.    Temiscouata  Lake 68 

14.  St.  John  to  Shediac 59 

15.  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  North  Shore  of  New  Brunsavick  60 

1.  Chatham  to  Shii)i)igan 61 

2.  Shippigan.     Bay  of  Chaleur 64 

3.  Bathurst  to  Caracjuette 66 

4.  Campbellton  to  St.  Flavie 69 

16.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 70 

1.  Quaco.    Sussex  Vale 71 

2.  Albert  County.     Monoton  to  Quebec 72 

3.  Dorchester,    Sackville 73 

NOVA  SCOTIA. 

General  Notes 75 

17.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 78 

1.  Tantramar  Marsh.    Chignecto  Peninsula 79 

2.  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia 81 

18.  St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley         ...  83 

1.  Annapolis  Royal 85 

2.  The  Annapolis  Valley 88 

3.  Kentville  to  Chester 90 

19.  Halifax 93 

20.  The  Environs  of  Halifax 100 

1.  Bedford  Basin.     Point  Pleasant 100 

21.  The  Basin  of  Minas.    Halifax  to  St.  John 101 

1.  Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'Or 103 

2.  The  Basin  of  Minas 104 

22.  The  Land  of  Evangeline 107 

23.  Annapolis  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth 112 

1.  The  Clare  Settlements 113 

2.  The  Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago 115 

24.  DiOBY  Neck 116 

25.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth.    The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia     .  117 

1.  Cape  Sambro.     Lunenburg 118 

2.  Liverpool 120 

8.  Shelburne 121 

4.  Cape  Sable 123 

26.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Route       ....  126 

1.  Chester.    Mahone  Bay 127 

2.  Chester  to  Liverpool 128 

ifl.  The  Liverpool  Lakes 129 

28.  Halifax  to  Tangier 181 

29.  The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia 133 

80.  Sable  Island 134 


i 
I. 


t 


{ 


PAGE 
54 

56 
67 
68 
59 
60 
61 
64 
66 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 


75 

78 

79 

81 

83 

85 

88 

90 

93 

100 

100 

101 

103 

104 

107 

112 

113 

115 

116 

117 

118 

120 

121 

123 

126 

127 

128 

129 

181 

133 

134 


CONTENTS. 


vil 


V 


soute  paob 

31.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Pictou 136 

82.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Stkait  of  Canso  and  Cape  Breton   138 

CAPE  BRETON. 

General  Notes 141 

33.  The  Strait  of  Canso 142 

34.  Arichat  and  Isle  Madame 145 

35.  The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton        ....  146 

36.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton 148 

87.  The  East  Coast  oi  Cape  Breton.    The  Sydney  Coal-Field3        .  152 

38.  The  Fortress  of  Louisbourg 154 

39.  The  North  Shore  of  Cape  Breton 158 

1.  St.  Anne's  Bay 158 

2.  St.  Paul's  Island 160 

40.  The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes 161 

1.  Baddeek 162 

2.  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake 164 

8.  The  Bras  d'Or  to  Halifax 166 

41.  Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Port  Hood 167 

1.  St.  Patrick's  Channel.    Whycocomagh 167 

42.  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton 168 

1.  Port  Hood.     Mabou 169 

2.  Margaree.     The  Lord's  Day  Gale 170 

PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

General  Notes 172 

43.  Shediac  to  Summerside  and  Charlottetown        ....        174 

1.  The  Northumberland  Strait 174 

44.  Pictou  to  Prince  Edward  Island 175 

45.  Charlottetown 175 

1.  Environs  of  Charlottetown 177 

46.  Charlottetown   to   Summerside    and   Tignish.     The   Western 

Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island 177 

1.  Rustico.     Summerside 178 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown 180 

48.  Charlottetown  to  Souris 182 

49.  The  Magdalen  Islands 183 

50.  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon 185 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General  Notes 187 

51.  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  Nev/foundland 188 

62.  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 189 

63.  The  Environs  of  St.  John's 195 

1.  Portugal  Cove.    Logle  Bay.    Torbay 195 

64.  The  Strait  Shore  of  Avalon.    St.  John's  to  Cape  Race  .       .        196 


VUl 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE  PAGE 

1.  The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland 199 

55.  St.  John's  to  Labrador.    The  Northern  Coast  of  Newfoundijind  200 

1.  Bonavista  Bay 203 

2.  Twillingate.    Exploits  Island 205 

56.  St.  John's  to  Conception  Bay 20C 

57.  Trinity  Bay 208 

58.  The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame 210 

59.  Placentia  Bay 212 

60.  The  Western  Outports.    St.  John's  to  Cape  Ray  ....  213 

1.  Fortune  Bay 214 

2.  Hermitage  Bay 215 

61.  The  French  Shore.    Cape  Ray  to  Cape  St.  John      .       .        .  216 

1.  The  Interior  of  Newfoundland 218 

2.  The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle 220 

LABRADOR. 

General  Notes 223 

62.  The  Atlantic  Coast,  to  the  Moravian  Missions  and  Greenland  224 

1.  The  Moravian  Missions 226 

63.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle     .        .        .  227 

64.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence     .        .        .  229 

1.  The  Mingan  Islands 231 

2.  The  Seven  Islands 232 

65.  Anticosti 234 

PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 

General  Notes 235 

66.  PiCTOu  TO  Quebec.    The  Coasts  of  Gasp^ 238 

1.  Paspebiac 240 

2.  Perc6 242 

3.  Gasp6 244 

67.  The  Lower  St.  Lawrence 246 

1.  Father  Point.     Rimouski 250 

2.  Bic.    Trois  Pistoles 251 

3.  St.  Anne  de  la  Pocati^re.     L'lslet 253 

68.  Quebec 255 

1.  Durham  Terrace 259 

2.  Jesuits'  College.     Basilica •       .        .  261 

3.  Seminary 262 

4.  Laval  University.     Parliament  Building 263 

5.  Hotel  Dieu.     Around  the  Ramparts 266 

6.  The  Lower  Town 271 

69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec 276 

1.  Beauport.    Montmorenci  Falls 276 

2.  Indian  Lorette 278 

3.  Chateau  Bigot.     Sillery 280 

4.  Point  Levi.    Chaudiere  Falls 282 


\ 


I 


• 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


203 
205 
206 
208 
210 
212 
213 
214 
215 
216 
218 
220 


.  223 

'SD    224 

.  226 

227 
.  229 

231 
.  232 

234 


235 
238 
240 
242 
244 
246 
250 
251 
253 
255 
259 
261 
262 
263 
266 
271 
276 
276 
278 
280 
282 


I 


route  faob 

70.  Quebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne 283 

1.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anne 286 

71.  The  Isle  of  Orleans 288 

72.  Quebec  to  Cacouna  and  the  Saguenay  River     ....  291 

1.  St.  Paul's  Bay 292 

2.  Murray  Bay 294 

3.  Cacouna 296 

73.  The  Saguenay  River 297 

1.  Tadousac 299 

2.  Chicoutimi 300 

3.  Ha  Ha  Bay.    Lake  St.  John 301 

4.  Eternity  Bay.     Cape  Trinity 303 

74.  Quebec  to  Montreal.    The  St.  Lawrence  River    .       .        .        .305 

75.  Montreal 309 

1.  Victoria  Square.     Notre  Dame 311 

2.  The  Gesi\.     St.  Patrick's  Church 313 

3.  Cathedral.     McGill  University.    Great  Seminary  ....  314 

4.  Hotel  Dieu.     Mount  Royal.     Victoria  Bridge     ....  316 

76.  The  Environs  of  Montreal 318 

1.  Around  the  Mountain.     Sault  au  RecoUet 818 

2.  Lachine  Rapids.    Caughnawaga 319 

3.  Beloeil  Mt.     St.  Anne 320 

Index  to  Localities 321 

Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions   ....  332 

Index  to  Quotations 333 

Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboats 334 

List  of  Authorities  Consulted 834 


MAPS. 

1.  Map  of  the  Mahitime  Pkovincks. 

2.  Map  of  the  Acadian  Land:  between  pages  106  and  107. 

3.  Map  of  the  Saguenay  River:  opposite  page  297. 

4.  Map  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawkemce  River  :  opposite  page  297. 


PLANS    OF   CITIES. 

1.  St.  John  :  between  pages  14  and  15. 

2.  Halifax  :  between  pages  92  and  93. 
8.  Quebec  :  between  pages  254  and  255. 

4.  Montreal  :  between  pages  808  and  309. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


N.  — Nortli,  Northern,  €\c. 
S.  —  Sou^H,  etc. 
E.  —  East,  etc. 
W.  —  West,  etc. 
N.  B.  —  New  Brunswick. 
N.  S.  —  Nova  Scotia. 
N.  P.  —  Newfoundland. 
Lab.  ~  Labrador. 


P.  E.  I.  —  Prince  Edward  Island. 

P.  Q.  —  Province  of  Quebec. 

M.  —  mile  or  miles. 

r.  — right 

1.— left. 

ft  —  foot  or  feet. 

hr.  —  hour. 

min.  — minute  or  minutes. 


Aiterigks  denote  objects  deserving  of  special  attention. 


297. 


THE   MARITIME   PROVINCES. 


md. 


2. 


N.i 

E.- 
W. 

N.( 
N.f 
N. 
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1 

INTRODUCTION. 


I.    Flan  of  Tour. 

The  most  profitable  course  for  a  tourist  in  the  Lower  Provinces  is  to 
Ikeep  moving,  and  liis  route  should  be  made  to  include  as  many  as  pos- 
Isible  of  the  points  of  interest  which  are  easily  accessible.     Tiiere  are  but 
Ifew  places  in  this  region  where  the  local  attractions  are  of  sufficient  inter- 
jest  to  justify  a  prolonged  visit,  or  where  the  accommodations  for  stran- 
Igers  are  adapted  to  make  such  a  sojourn  pleasant.     The  historic  and 
jscenic  beauties  are  not  concentrated  on  a  few  points,  but  extend  through- 
)ut  the  country,  affording  rare  opportunities  for  journeys  whose  general 
course  may  be  replete  witli  interest.     The  peculiar  charms  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  are  their  history  during  tlie  Acadian  era  and  their  noble 
:oast  scenery,  —  the  former  containing  some  of  tlie  most  romantic  episodes 
n  the  annals  of  America,  and  the  latter  exhibiting  a  marvellous  blending 
)f  mountainous  capes  and  picturesque  islands  with  the  blue  northern  sea. 
ind  these  two  traits  are  intertwined  tliroughout,  for  tiiere  is  scarce  a 
)romontory  that  has  not  ruins  or  legends  of  French  fortresses,  scarce  a 
jay  tliat  has  not  heard  the  roaring  broadsides  of  British  frigates. 
The  remarkable  ethnological  phenomena  here  presented  are  also  cal- 
dated  to  awaken  interest  even  in  the  lightest  minds.  The  American  tour- 
8t,  accustomed  to  the  homogeneousness  of  the  cities  and  rural  communi- 
[es  of  the  Republic,  may  here  see  extensive  districts  inhabited  by  French- 
lien  or  by  Scottish  Highlanders,  preserving  their  national  languages,  cus- 
>nis,  and  amusements  unaffected  by  the  presence  and  pressure  of  British 
Ifluence  and  power.     Of  such  are  the  districts  of  Clare  and  Madawaska 
id  the  entire  island  of  Cape  Breton. 

All  these  phases  of  provincial  life  and  history  aff'ord  subjects  for  study 
amusement  to  the  traveller,  and  may  serve  to  niake  a  summer  voyage 
)th  interesting  and  profitable. 

[Travelling  has  been  greatly  facilitated,  withjn  a  few  years,  by  the  es- 
blisliment  of  railways  and  steamship  routes  throughout  the  Provinces, 
roni  the  analyses  of  these  lines,  given  in  the  following  pages,  the  tourist 


INTRODUCTION. 


n 

days. 

1 

2 

1 

li 

1 

2 

4 

3 

1 

3 

will  b©  al)lo  to  compute  the  ecst  of  his  trip,  both  in  money  and  in  time. 
Tho  following  tour  would  includo  u  glimpst!  at  the  chief  iittraetions  of  the 
country,  and  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  time  retpiisite  :  — 

Boston  to  St.  John 

St.  John 

St.  Jolin  to  Annapolis  and  iliilifiix       .... 

Halifax 

Halifax  to  Sydney 

The  JJras  d'Or  Lakes 

Port  llawkesbury  to  IMctou,  Charlottetown,  and  Shediac 

Shediac  to  Quebec  (by  steamer) 

Quebec 

Quebec  to  Boston 

Failures  to  connect 

21  days. 

To  this  circular  tour  several  side-trips  may  ha  added,  at  the  discretion 
of  tho  traveller.  The  most  desirable  among  these  are  tlie  routes  to  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  the  St.  John  lliver,  the  Basin  of  Minas  (to  Parrsboro'), 
from  Halifax  to  Chester  and  JNIalione  Bay,  Whycocomagh,  or  Louisbourg 
(in  Cape  Breton),  and  the  Sagiicnay  Hiver.  It  may  be  advisable  to  go  to 
Quebec  by  the  Intercolonial   Kaihvay,  taking  a  night  and  a  day. 

If  the  tourist  wishes  to  sojourn  lor  sevcrul  days  or  weeks  in  one  itlace, 
the  most  eligible  points  for  Nuch  :i  visit,  outside  of  St.  John  and  Halifax, 
are  Frcdericton,  St.  Andrews,  (Jrand  INIanan,  (Jrand  lails,  or  Dalljousie, 
in  New  Briuiswick ;  Annapolis,  Woltville,  Parrsboro',  or  Chester,  in  Nova 
Scotia;  Baddeek,  in  Cai)e  Breton;  and  Chariottetown,  in  Prince  Edward 
Island.  At  each  of  these  villages  are  small  but  comfoi  table  inns,  and  the 
surrounding  scenery  is  attractive. 

II.    Newfoundland  and  Labrador. 

Extended  descriptions  of  these  remote  northern  coasts  have  been  given 
in  the  following  pages  for  the  use  of  the  increasing  number  of  travellers 
who  yearly  pass  thitherward.  The  nsarine  scenery  of  Newfoundland  is 
*'ie  grandest  on  the  North  Atlantic  coast,  and  here  are  all  the  varied  phe- 
noniena  of  the  northern  seas, —  icebergs,  the  aurora  borealis,  the  herds  of 
seals,  the  desolate  and  lofty  shores,  and  the  vast  fishing-tleets  from  which 
France  and  the  United  States  draw  their  best  seamen.  English  and 
American  yachtsmen  grow  more  familiar  every  year  with  tiiese  coasts, 
and  it  is  becoming  more  common  for  gentlemen  of  our  Eastern  cities 
to  embark  on  tishing-schooners  and  make  the  voyage  to  Labrador  or  the 
Banks. 

The  tourist  can  also  reach  the  remotest  settlements  on  the  Labrador 


INTRODUCTION. 


n  time. 
i  of  tliu 


ays. 

(( 
<( 

<( 
(( 

(( 
(< 
(( 


lays. 

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L's  to  Pas- 
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I  Halifax, 

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midland  is 

varied  pbc- 

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nglish  and 

ese  coasts, 

stern  cities 

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/    .'1 

te  Labrador 

coast  by  the  HteainHhip  Hues  from  Flalif.ix  to  St.  .loliii's,  N.  F.,  and  thetiee 
to  liatthi  llurl)()r.  This  route  takes  a  long  jxTJod  of  time,  though  the 
exi)eh.'»e  is  comparatively  light  ;  and  the  accominoihitions  on  tlie  Hteam- 
shipH  be_\ontl  St.  Jolin's  are  (piite  inferior.  A  shorttM-  eircuhir  tour  may 
be  made  by  taking  tlm  steamer  from  Halifax  to  St.  .lohn's,  and  at  St. 
John's  embarking  on  tli<^  Western  ()ut|to!tH  steamship,  which  coasts  along 
the  entire  S.  shore  of  the  island,  ami  runs  down  to  Sydney,  C.  H., 
once  a  month.  From  Sydney  the  tourist  can  return  to  Halifax  (or  St. 
Jolin,  N.  |{.)  by  way  of  the,  Ibas  d'Or  Lakes.  The  Western  Outports 
steamship  also  visits  the  (|uaint  French  color.y  at  St.  Pierre  ami  Miipielon 
fortnightly,  and  the  traveller  (^in  stop  oil  th<!re  and  return  directly  to 
Halifax  hy  the  Anglo-French  steamship,  which  leaves  St.  Pierre  fort- 
niglitly. 

S*;a-S{('./,nrs,<i.     The  chief  Ixinelit  to  be  derived  on  these  routes  is  the 
invigoration  of  the  hivK'ing  air  of  the  noitln^rn  sea      Pcirsons  who  are 
liable  to  sea-sickness  should  avoid  the  Newfoundland  trip,  since  rough 
weather  is  fre(iuently  experienced  there,  and  the  stewards  are  neither  as 
numerous  nor  as  dexterous  as  those  on  the  transatlantic  steamsjiips.    The 
Editor  is  tempted  to  insert  here  a  l)it  of  personal  experience,  showing 
how  the  results  of  early  experiences,  combined  with  the  advice  of  vciteran 
travellers,  have  furnished  him  with  a  code  of  rules  which  ar(!  useful  against 
the  inal  da  mcr  in  all  its  forms.     During  '28  "days  on  the  M»'diterranean 
Sea  and  45  days  on  the  Canadian  waters,  the  obs(;rvance  of  these  sinijjle 
rules  prevented  sickness,  although  every  condition  of  weather  was  expe- 
rienced, from  the  fierce  simoom  of  the  Lyldan  Desei-t  to  the  icy  gales  of 
Labrador.     The  chief  rule,  to  which  the  others  are  but  corollarie.s,  is, 
Don't  think  of  your  physical  self.     Any  one  in  perfect  health,  who  will 
busy  himself  for  an  hour  in  thinking  about  tlie  manmir  in  which  his 
breath  is  inhaled,  or  in  which  his  eyes  perform  their  functions,  will  soon 
feel  ill  at  ease  in  his  lungs  or  eyes,  and  can  only  regain  traiupiillity  by 
bani.shing  the  disturbing  thonghts.      Avoid,  therefore,  this  gloomy  and 
apprehensive  self-contemplation,  and  till  the  mind  with  bright  and  en- 
grossing themes,  —  the  conversation  of  merry  coinpaidons,  the  exciting 
vicissitudes  of  card-playing,  or  the  marvellous  deeds  of  .some  hero  of  ro- 
mance.    Never  think  of  your  throat  and  stomach,  nor  think  of  thinking 
or  not  thinking  of  them,  but  forget  that  such  conveniences  exist.     Keep 
on  deck  as  much  as  possible,  \varnily  wrappecl  uj),  and  inhaling  the  salty 
air  of  the  sea.     Don't  .stay  in  the  lee  of  the  funnel,  where  the  smell  of  oil 
is  nauseating.     And  if  yon  are  still  ill  at  ease,  lie  down  in  your  .state- 
room, with  the  port-hole  slightly  opened,  and  go  to  .sleep.     The  tourist 
should  purchase,  before  leaving  Halifax,  two  or  three  lively  novels,  a  flask 
of  fine  brandy,  a  bottle  of  pickled  limes,  and  a  dozen  lemons. 


INTRODUCTION. 


III.    Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Dominion  currency  passes  freely  everywhere  in  Canada,  also  the  bills  of 
all  the  prominent  banks  of  the  upper  and  lower  Provinces. 

United-States  silver  is  accepted  only  in  small  sums,  and  then  at  a  dis- 
count. 

United-States  bills  are  accepted,  but  there  has  lately  been  some  movement 
against  taking  them  at  par,  as  used  to  be  the  custom. 


iV 


IV.    Sailways  and  Steamboats. 


It 


The  new-born  railway  system  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  being  ex- 
tended rapidly  on  all  sides,  by  the  energy  of  private  corporations  and 
the  liberality  of  the  Canadian  Government.  The  lines  are  generally  well 
and  securely  constructed,  on  English  principles  of  solidity,  and  are  not 
yet  burdened  by  sucli  a  pressure  of  traffic  as  to  render  travelling  in  any 
way  dangerous.  The  cars  are  built  on  the  American  plan,  and  are  suf- 
ficiently comfortable.  On  all  trains  there  are  accommodations  for  smn- 
kers.  Pullman  cars  were  introduced  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway  in  1874, 
and  are  regularly  run  there,  and  also  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  (formerly 
the  New-Brunswick  Railway).  There  are  restaurants  at  convenient  dis- 
tances on  the  lines,  where  the  trains  stop  long  enough  for  passengers  to 
take  their  meals.  The  narrow-gauge  cars  on  the  Prince  Edward  Island 
Railway  will  attract  the  attention  of  travellers,  on  account  of  their  singular 
construction.     The  tourist  has  choice  of  three  grades  of  accommodation 


INTRODUCTION. 


e  bills  of 

at  a  dis- 

\ovement 


on  the  chief  railways,  —  Pullman  car,  first-class,  and  second-class.  The 
latter  mode  of  travelling  is  verj'^  uncomfortable. 

Good  accommodations  are  given  on  the  vessels  which  ply  between  Bos- 
ton and  St.  John  and  to  Halifax  and  Prince  Edward  Inland.  The  cabins 
of  the  Quebec  steamships  are  elegantly  fitted  up,  and  are  ai/y  and  spacious. 
The  Annapolis,  Minas,  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland  lines 
have  comfortable  atcommodations,  and  the  Yarmouth  and  North  Shore  ves- 
sels are  also  fairly  equipped.  The  lines  to  the  Magdalen  Islands,  St.  Pierre, 
and  along  the  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  coasts  are  primarily  intended 
for  the  tran!<portation  of  freight,  and  for  successfully  encountering  rough 
weather  and  heavy  seas,  and  have  small  cabins  and  plain  fare.  The  Sa- 
guena}'  steamers  resemble  the  better  class  of  American  river-boats,  and 
have  tine  accommodations. 

The  Mail-Starfes.  —The  remoter  districts  of  the  Provinces  are  visited 
by  lines  of  stages.  The  tourist  will  naturally  be  deceived  by  the  grandil- 
oquent titles  of  "Royal  Mail  Stage,"  or  ''Her  Majesty's  Mail  Route," 
and  suppose  that  some  reflected  stateliness  will  invest  the  vehicles  that 
bear  such  au,tj;ust  names.  In  point  of  fact,  and  with  but  two  or  three 
exceptions,  the  Provincial  stages  are  far  from  corresponding  to  such  ex- 
pectations ;  being,  in  most  cases,  the  rudest  and  plainest  carriages,  some- 
times drawn  by  but  one  horse,  and  usually  unprovided  with  covers.  The 
fares,  however,  are  very  low,  for  this  class  of  transportation,  and  a  good 
rate  of  speed  is  usually  kept  up. 


being  ex- 
lations  and 
jerally  well 
^id  are  not 
ing  in  any 
nd  are  suf- 
s  for  smo- 
|ay  in  1874, 
(formerly 
renient  dis- 
Uengers  to 
l^ard  Island 
fiir  singular 
Immodation 


6 


INTRODUCTION. 


V.   Bound-Trip  Ezcarsions. 

During  the  summer  and  early  autumn  th  •  railway  P.nd  steamship  com- 
panies publifth  lists  of  excursions  at  greatly  reduced  prices.  Information 
and  lists  of  these  routes  may  be  obtained  of  the  General  Passenger  Agent 
of  the  Boston  &  Maine  li.  R.,  Boston;  the  International  Steamship  Co., 
Boston;  the  Yarmouth  Steamship  Co.,  Boston;  and  the  Boston,  Halifax, 
and  Prince-Edward  Island  Steamship  Co.,  Boston. 

Travellers  who  prefer  to  go  by  railway,  across  the  State  of  Maine,  can 
send  for  the  summer-excursion  book  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  or  of 
the  Maine  Central  Railroad.  (Address  the  latter  at  Portland,  Maine.) 
Small  books  are  issued  every  spring  by  these  companies,  each  giving  sev- 
eral hundred  combinations  of  routes,  with  their  prices.  They  may  be  ob- 
tained on  application,  in  person  or  by  letter,  at  the  above-mentioned  offices. 
The  excursion  tickets  are  good  durii  ;  the  season,  and  have  all  the  privi- 
leges of  first-class  tickets.  The  folio  .  ing  tours  will  serve  to  convey  an 
idea  of  the  pecuniary  expense  incurred  in  a  trip  from  Boston  through  the 
best  sections  of  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO, 

Halifax  Hound  Trip  Excursion.— -Boston  to  St.  John  by  International 
Steamsliip  Co.'s  Stejiniers  ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy  Steamers ; 
Annupolis  to  Halifax  by  W.  &  A.  Railway  ;  Halifax  to  St.  John  by  Intercolonial 
Railway  ;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  International  Steamship  Co.'s  Steamers     Fare,  $18. 

Three  Proriiicen  Excursion. — Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  Steam- 
ship do.',"  Steamers  ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy  Steamers ;  Annapolis 
to  Halifax  by  W.  &  A.  Railway  ;  Halifax  to  IMctoii  by  Intercolonial  Railway  ;  Pic- 
tou  to  Charlottetown  by  P.  E.  1,  Steamers  ;  Charlottetown  to  Summerside  by 
P.  E.  I.  Railway  ;  Summerside  to  Shediac  by  P.  E.  I.  Steamers ;  Shediac  to  St. 
John  by  Intercolonial  Railway  ;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  International  Steamship 
Co.'s  Steamers.     Fare,  J?  22. 

Eastport  Excursion.  —  Boston  to  Ea'stport, and  return, by  International  Steam- 
ship Co.'s  Steamer.     Fare,  .*  7.50. 

St.  \lohn  Excursion.  — Boston  to  Eastport,  and  St.  John,  and  return,  by  Inter- 
national Steamship  Co.'s  Steamer.     Fare,  ;5  8.50. 

The  other  companies  have  groups  of  excursions  of  equal  variety  and  in- 
terest, and  will  be  glad  to  send  their  books  to  applicants. 

The  route-book  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  may  be  obtained  by 
sending  to  the  General  Passenger  Agent,  D.  J.  Flanders,  Boston,  or  apply- 
ing at  the  passenger  ticket-olHce,  Washington  Street. 


INTRODUCTION. 


VI.    Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  are  far  behind  the  age,  and 
thereby  the  pleasure  of  a  journey  in  this  beautiful  region  is  greatly 
lessoned  for  the  sybaritic  Americans.  The  general  rates  at  the  better  ho- 
tels of  the  second-class  is  .S  2  a  day;  and  the  village  inns  and  country  tav- 
erns charge  from  ^  1  to  $  1.50,  with  reductions  for  boarders  by  the  week . 


VII.    Language. 

The  English  language  will  be  found  suflicient,  unless  the  tourist  desires 
to  visit  the  more  remote  districts  of  Cape  Breton,  or  the  Acadian  settle- 
ments. The  Gaelic  is  probably  the  predominant  language  on  Cape  Breton, 
but  English  is  also  spoken  in  tlie  chief  villages  and  fishing-communities. 
In  the  more  secluded  farming-districts  among  the  highlands  the  Gaelic 
tongue  is  more  generally  used,  and  the  tourist  may  sometimes  find  whole 
families,  not  one  of  whom  can  speak  English. 

In  the  villages  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  and  especially  on  the 
North  Shore,  the  French  language  is  in  common  use. 

The  relation  of  this  language  to  the  polite  French 
speech  of  the  present  day  is  not  clearly  understood,  and  it  is  frequently 
stigmatized  by  Americans  as  "an  unintelligible  patois^  This  state- 
ment is  erroneous.  The  Canadian  French  has  borrowed  from  the  Eng- 
lish tongue  a  few  nautical  and  political  terms,  and  has  formed  for  itself 
words  describing  the  peculiar  phenomena  and  conditions  of  nature  in  the 
new  homes  of  the  people.  The  Indians  have  also  contributed  numerous 
terms,  descriptive  of  the  animals  and  their  habits,  and  the  operations  of 
forest-life.  But  the  interpolated  words  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  the 
language  is  as  intelligible  as  when  brought  from  the  North  of  France,  two 
centuries  ago.  It  is  far  closer  in  its  resemblance  to  the  Parisian  speech 
tlian  are  the  dialects  of  one  fourth  of  the  departnunits  of  France.  Trav- 
ellers and  immigrants  from  Old  France  lind  no  difficulty  in  conversing 
with  the  Lower-Caiuidians,  an<l  the  aristocracy  of  Quel)ec  speak  as  pure 
an  idiom  as  is  used  in  the  Faubourg  St.  Germain. 


8 


INTRODUCTION. 


This  language  has  an  extensive  and  interesting  literature,  which  in- 
cludes science,  theology,  history,  romance,  and  poetry.  It  has  also 
numerous  newspapers  and  magazines,  and  is  kept  from  adulte^-ation  by 
the  vigilance  of  several  colleges  and  a  powerful  university.  It  is  used, 
co-ordinately  with  the  English  language,  in  the  records  and  journals  of 
the  Dominion  and  (inebec  Parh'aments,  and  speeches  an<I  plojuiings  in 
French  are  allowable  before  those  Parliaments  and  the  courts  of  Quebec. 

Thus  much  to  prove  the  substantial  identity  of  tlie  Lower-Canadian  and 
French  languages.  The  tourist  who  wishes  to  ranil)le  through  the  an- 
cient French-Canadian  districts  will,  therefore,  get  on  very  well  if  he  has 
travelled  much  in  Old  France. 

VIII.    Climate  and  Dress. 

The  more  northerly  situation  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  their  vicin- 
ity, on  so  many  sides,  to  the  sea,  render  the  climate  even  more  severe  and 
imcertain  than  that  of  New  England.  The  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
much  farther  apart  than  in  tlie  corresponding  latitudes  of  Europe,  and, 
as  Marmier  expresses  it,  this  region  "combines  tlie  torrid  climate  of 
southern  regions  with  the  severity  of  an  hyperl)orean  winter,"  During 
the  brief  but  lovely  summer  the  atmosphere  is  clear  and  balmy,  and 
vegetation  flourishes  amain.  The  winters  are  long  and  severe,  but  ex- 
ercise no  evil  elTect  on  the  people,  nor  restrain  the  merry  games  of  the 
youths.  Ever  since  Knowles  sent  to  England  his  celebrated  dictum  that 
the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  consisted  of  "  nine  months  of  winter  and  three 
months  of  fog,"  the  people  of  Britain  and  America  have  had  highly  ex- 
aggerated ideas  of  the  severity  of  the  seasons  in  the  Provinces.  These 
statements  are  not  borne  out  by  the  facts  ;  and,  though  Nova  Scotia 
and  New  Brunswick  have  not  the  mild  skies  of  Virginia,  their  coldest 
weather  is  surpassed  by  the  M'inters  of  the  Northwestern  States.  The 
meteorological  tables  and  the  physical  condition  of  the  people  prove  that 
the  climate,  though  severe,  i.'^:  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  time  has 
gone  by  for  describing  these  Provinces  as  a  gloomy  land  of  frozen  Hyper- 
boreans, and  for  decrying  them  with  pessimistic  pen. 

The  worst  annoyance  experienced  by  tourists  is  the  prevalence  of  dense 
fogs,  which  sometimes  sweep  in  suddeidy  from  the  sea  and  brood  over  the 
cities.  In  order  to  encounter  such  unwelcome  visitations,  and  also  to  be 
pi-epared  against  fresh  breezes  on  the  open  sea,  travellers  should  l)e  pro- 
vided with  heavy  shawls  or  overcoats,  and  woollen  underclothing  should 
be  kept  at  hand. 

IX.    Fishing. 

All  leases  are  sold  at  public  auction,  to  the  highest  bidder,  and  as  soon  as 
vacant  are  airain  sold.  The  Kestigouche,  Nepesiquit,  and  many  other  prin- 
cipal rivers  will  become  vacant  and  be  resold  in  March,  1892.  The  leases 
on  the  Restigouche  each  cover  10  miles  of  river.     The  (ishing  is  the  best 


INTRODUCTION. 


■which  in- 
;  has  also 
i^i-ation  by 
It  is  used, 
journals  of 
ojuiiii^^s  iu 
i  Quebec, 
nadian  and 
gh  the  an- 
il if  he  has 


their  vicin- 
I  severe  and 
ind  cold  are 
urope,  and, 
climate  of 
r."     During 
halniy,  and 
3 re,  hut  ex- 
;anies  of  the 
dictum  that 
T  and  three 
highly  ex- 
ecs.    These 
ova  Scotia 
leir  coldest 
ates.     The 
prove  that 
e  time  has 
)zen  Hyper- 

ice  of  dense 
od  over  the 
d  also  to  be 
uld  be  pro- 
wling should 


Id  as  soon  as 

other  prin- 

Tlie  leases 

is  the  best 


In  the  world,  and  the  river  navigable  all  summer.  The  scenery  is  unsur- 
passed. Hundreds  of  American  ladies  and  gentlemen  spend  their  June 
and  July  on  the  Kestigouche,  Nepesiquit,  Southwest  JMiraniichi,  Tobique,  or 
other  rivers.  Many  of  them  have  handsome  fi^hing-lodges  and  club-houses. 
In  18fl0  there  were  1.480  salmon,  averaging  23  lbs.,  killed  by  anglers  on 
the  Kestigouche;  and  G20,  averaging  12  lbs.,  on  the  Nepesiquit.  The  gov- 
ernment leases  only  cover  those  portions  of  the  river  which  are  unc/rnnted^ 
and  there  are  granted  lots  in  many  of  the  stretches  leased  in  these  cases. 
The  granted  portions  are  excepted  from  the  leases,  and  the  fishing  is  in  the 
grantees,  many  of  whom  have  sold  to  private  parties  or  clubs.  Some  still 
own  them,  and  either  lease  them  by  the  day  or  for  short  terms.  There 
is  first-class  salmon-fishing  on  the  Southwest  Miramichi.  Tiie  waters  are 
owned  by  private  individuals.  Some  of  these  waters  are  for  sale  in  fee 
simple.  Permits  by  the  day  or  for  the  season  can  always  be  had  on  reason- 
able terms  on  application  to  the  Fishery  Commissioner  of  New  Brunswick 
(at  Fredericton),  who  is  prepared  at  all  times  cheerfully  to  give  information 
to  persons  desiring  it  as  to  the  fishing  and  hunting  in  any  of  the  rivers  or 
forests.  Parties  desirous  of  fishing  should  correspond  well  in  advance,  that 
selection  of  river  may  be  made  and  guides  secured.  All  the  rivers  may  be 
conveniently  reached  by  rail  from  Fredericton,  and  the  best  of  tackle  and 
supplies  can  be  had  there  at  reasonable  figures.  The  best  fishing  on  most 
rivers  is  about  the  15th  of  June. 

Lessees  are  bound  by  condition  of  their  leases  to  place  as  many  guardi- 
ans on  leased  premises  .as  required  by  Surveyor  General,  —  usually  one  on 
each  leased  lot.  The  lessees  on  the  principal  rivers  are  mostly  Americans, 
and  they  are  always  ready  in  their  own  interest  to  put  on  more  guardians 
than  are  required.  The  Tobique  River  lease  has  been  assigned  to  a  club 
composed  mostly  of  Philadelpliia  men.  Hotel  accommodation  can  be  had 
at  any  of  the  towns  where  the  railways  strike  the  rivers;  but  anglers  as- 
cending the  river  to  fish  must  in  most  instances  go  by  canoe,  and  camp  on 
the  river-banks.  Each  angler  ought  to  have  a  canoe  and  two  men  to  him- 
self. A  canoe  and  two  men  costs  $2.50  a  day,  with  provisions.  The  men 
are  good  canoe-men  and  guides,  and  generally  fair  cooks. 

"The  Game  Fish  of  the  Northern  States  and  British  Provinces,"  by 
Robert  B.  Roosevelt  (published  by  Canleton,  of  New  York,  in  1865), 
contains  an  account  of  the  salmon  and  sea-trout  fi  hing  of  Canada  and 
New  Brunswick.  The  pursuit  of  sea-trout  on  the  ijower  St.  Lawrence 
and  Laval  is  described  in  pages  .50-88  and  315-821;  the  Labrador  rivers, 
pages  107-111  ;  the  Miramichi  and  Nepisiguit  Rivers,  pages  111-115 ; 
the  Sdioodic  Lakes,  pages  145 -]  4"'. 

"  Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  by  Genio  C.  Scott  (jiublished  by  Har- 
per and  Brothers,  1809),  contains  practical  directions  to  sportsmen,  and 
graphic  descriptions  of  fishing  in  the  rivers  of  New  Brunswick  and  Lower 
Quebec. 

"  Frank  Forester's  Fish  and   Fishing  of  the  United  States  and  British 
1* 


10 


INTBODUCTION. 


II  : 


Provinces  of  North  America,"  hy  H.  W.  Herbert  (New  York,  1850),  is  to 
a  large  extent  technical  and  scientific,  iunl  contains  bnt  a  few  incidental 
allusions  to  the  provincial  fisheries. 

"The  Fishing  Tourist,"  by  Cliurlcs  Iiallock  (]»nl)lislie(l  by  Harper  and 
Brothers,  1873),  contains  ab(nU  100  i)a-;es  of  jileasant  descriptions  relat- 
ing to  the  Sclioodic  Lakes,  the  best  tront  and  sahnon  streams  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  Cape  Breton,  tlie  Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  Sague- 
nay  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  Antlcosti,  and  Lal)radnr,  The  principal 
salinon  and  trout  streanjs  in  New  Brunswick  an-  leased  by  the  Provineial 
Government  at  public  auction.  For  particuhirs,  aildress  the  Surveyor- 
General  at  Fredericlon. 

IX.    Miscellaneous  Notes. 

The  times  of  departure  of  the  provincial  steamships  are  liable  to  change 
every  season.  The  tourist  can  liiul  full  |»articulars  of  the  days  of  sailing, 
etc.,  on  arriving  at  St.  John,  from  the  local  and  the  Halifax  newspa- 
pers. The  names  of  the  agents  of  these  lines  have  also  been  given  here- 
iiuifier,  and   turthei   iniuiiwaiion  may  be  obtained    by   wntiiig  to  their 

addresses. 

Tlie  custom-house  formalities  at  the  national  frontiers  depend  less  upon 
the  actual  laws  than  upon  the  men  who  execute  them.  The  examination 
of  baggage  is  usually  conducted  in  a  lenient  manner,  but  trunks  and 
packages  are  sometimes  detained  on  account  of  the  presence  of  too  numy 
Canadian  goods.  It  is  politic,  as  well  as  gentlemanly,  for  the  tourist  to 
afiord  the  olHcers  every  facility  for  the  inspection  of  his  baggage. 

The  people  of  the  Provinces  are  generally  courteous,  and  are  willing  to 
answer  any  civilly  put  questions.  The  inhabitants  of  the  more  remote 
districts  are  distinguished  for  their  hospitality,  and  are  kindly  disi)osed 
and  honest.  — 

The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  originally 
a  narrow-gauge  road  from  Gibson,  opposite  Fredericton,  to  Edmundston, 
has  absorbed  all  the  lines,  but  one,  in  Western  New  Brunswick,  and  is 
now  a  standard-gauge  road  for  its  entire  length. 

It  reaches  all  the  cities  and  towns  in  the  St.  John  and  St.  Croix  valleys, 
and  has  direct  connection  with  the  Intercolonial  Bailway  at  St.  John,  by 
ineans  of  the  great  steel  cantilever  bridge  over  the  Falls.  It  is  supplied 
with  new  rolling-stock,  and  now  in  point  of  comfort  and  the  excellence  of 
its  train  service  is  the  equal  of  anv'  road.  There  is  a  day  and  a  night 
Pullman  train  between  St.  John  and  the  West.  Tickets  can  be  purchased 
at  Boston  to  either  of  the  following  points  of  interest:  St.  John,  Frederic- 
ton,  St.  Andrews,  St.  Stephen  and  Calais,  Woodstock,  Grand  Falls,  ai»d 
Ednuiiulston.  The  Temiscouata  Railway,  in  operation  in  the  summer  of 
1888,  gives  a  through  route  from  Ednuindston  to  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
Riviere  du  Loup,  whence  the  traveller  may  go  by  rail  to  Quebec,  or  by 
steamer  to  Tadousac,  Saguenay,  returning  to  Quebec. 


1850),  is  to 
V  inculental 

Harper  and 
)tions  relat- 
ims  of  Nov  a 
•,  the  Sague- 
he  principal 
lu  Provint-iiil 
le  Surveyor- 


ale  to  change 
vs  of  sailing, 
if  ax  newspa- 
[  given  here- 
iiig  to  their 

end  less  upon 
!  examination 
t  trunks  and 
!  of  too  many 
the  tourist  to 
rage. 

are  willing  to 

more  remote 

,udly  disiioseii 

ay,  originally 

Edmundston, 

[swick,  and  is 

'roix  valleys, 
St.  John,  by 
[It  is  supplied 
excellence  of 
and  a  night 
be  purchased 
|()lin,  Frcileric- 
Ind  Falls,  ai»d 
Ihe  summer  of 
Lawrence  at 
Luebec,  or  by 


'fi 


EOUTES    FEOM    BOSTOX    TO     THE    MARITIME 

PROVINCES. 


1.     By  Jiailwny. 

The  Boston  (f  Maine  and  Maine  Central  Railroad  Lines  form  the  usual 
mode  of  appr(»a(!h  by  land.  Their  trains  leave  the  teruiiiial  station  in 
Ijoston,  and  run  tlirough  tc  liangor  without  change  of  cars,  rullinau 
cars  are  attached  to  the  tliroagli  trains,  and  tickets  are  sold  to  nearly  all 
points  in  the  Eastern  Pn^vinces.  At  Bangor  passengers  change  cars,  but 
remain  in  the  hands  of  tlu;  Maine  Central  until  \'an( ii)nro  at  the  interna- 
tional boundary  is  reached,  where  the  rails  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 
way begin.  IJetween  Boston  and  Portland  this  route  traverses  a  peculiarly 
interesting  country,  with  frequent  glimpses  of  the  sea;  but  the  countr}-  be- 
tween Batigor  and  St.  John  is  almost  devoid  of  attractions,  being  for  the 
most  part  through  the  forest,  until  VVesttield  is  reached.  For  the  last  20 
M.  there  are  many  beautiful  views  over  the  St.-John  Kiver. 

"The  Elying  Yankee'  train  makes  the  run  from  Boston  to  St.  John 
(448  M.)  in  14  hours,  leaving  Boston  at  8  A.  m.  by  the  Boston  &  Maine 
liailru  ;d,  and  reaching  St.  John  at  10  r.  m.,  and  Halifax  at  y.f30  a.  m.,  next 
day.  'ihe  Provincial  Express  morning  train  from  Boston  to  St.  John  has 
through  cars*,  without  change  at  Bangor. 

The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  also  con- 
nects with  the  Maine  Central  system,  and  runs  through  trains  fnnn  St. 
John  to  Montreal,  across  the  State  of  Maine,  by  way  of  Mattawamkeag 
and  the  Moosehead-Lake  region. 

2.     By  Steamship. 

The  International  Steamship  Company  despatches  vessels  three  times 
weekly  from  June  15  to  October  1,  leaving  Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  at 
8. '30  A.M.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.  They  touch  at  Portland, 
v,'ii(his  left  at  5  p.  m.  ;  and  afterwards  they  run  along  the  M  line  c.'ut, 
calling  at  Eastport  the  next  morning,  and  traversing  Passamaquoddy  Bay. 
They  reach  St.  John  in  the  afternoon.  Fares,  —  from  Boston  to  Eastport, 
$4;  to  St.  John,  $4.50.  Another  stanch  vessel  of  this  line  plies  regularly 
between  Boston,  Digby,  and  Annapolis  (22  hours  at  sea). 

The  Yarmouth  Steamship  Co.  affords  the  most  convenient  route  to  visit 
the  famous  hunting  and  tishing  grounds  of  the  western  counties  of  Nova 
Scotia.  Their  steamships  leave  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  Tuesday  and  Fri- 
day, for  Yarmouth,  giving  an  exhilarating  voyage  of  17  hours  across  th^ 
open  sea. 


12       FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 

The  Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island  Steamship  Line  de- 
spatch vessels  from  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  Wednesday  noons.  After 
reaching  Halifax  these  steamships  run  N.  E.  along  the  Nova-Scotia  coast, 
round  Cape  Canso,  and  traverse  the  picturesque  Gut  of  Canso.  They  call 
at  Pictou  and  then  run  across  to  (!harlottetown.  By  leaving  the  vessel  at 
Port  Ilawkesburv,  the  tourist  can  easily  reach  the  Bras  d'Or  and  other 
parts  of  the  island  of  Cape  Breton.  These  vessels  connect  at  Halifax  with 
the  railways  for  Windsor,  etc.,  and  the  Newfoundland  steamships;  and 
Port  Hav.'keshury  with  the  Bras  d'Or  steamers  and  the  Cape-Breton  Rail- 
way ;  and  at  Pictou  with  the  steamships  of  the  Quebec  S.  S.  Co.,  for  Que- 
bec and  Montreal. 

3.    Routes  by  way  of  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Montreal  mav  be  reached  bv  either  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.,  the  Mon- 
treal  &  Boston  Air  Line  (Passumpsic  R.  R.),  or  the  Boston  &  Maine  (Lowell 
Div.)  Grand  Trunk  Lines.  These  routes  are  all  described  in  Neio  England: 
a  Handbook  for  Travellers.  The  most  picturesque  route  from  Quebec  to 
the  Maritime  Provinces  is  by  tlie  vessels  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company, 
which  leave  every  week  for  the  eastern  ports  of  Quebec  and  Nova  Scotia, 
connecting  with  the  local  lines  of  travel.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  extends 
around  from  Quebec  to  St.  John  and  Halifax. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  runs  from  St.  John,  N.  B.,  to  Mon- 
treal, 481  M.,  in  17^  hours.  The  train  leaving  St.  John  at  3  p.  m,  reaches 
Moosehead  Lake  at  11.15,  Magog  at  5.30  a.  m.,  and  Montreal  at  8.35 
A.  M.  It  follows  the  New-Brunswick  Division  to  Vanceboro,  and  the 
Maine  Central  to  Mattawamkeag,  and  then  traverses  the  lonely  and  rugged 
wilderness  of  Maine  for  144  M.,  entering  the  Province  of  Quebec  near  Lake 
Megantic.  At  Lennoxville,  connection  is  made  with  the  Passumpsic  line; 
and  at  Sherbrooke  the  Quebec  Central  is  met. 

The  Quebec  Central  Railway  runs  N.  from  Sherbrooke  along  the  St. 
Francis  River  and  by  Lake  Aylmer  and  Black  Lake,  and  the  famous  as- 
bestos mines  of  Tring.  Thence  it  reaches  the  Chaudi^re  Valley,  and  de- 
scends to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

4.    Newfoundland. 

Passengers  bound  for  the  remoter  East.,  for  Newfoundland  or  Labrador, 
will  find  the  best  accommodations  on  the  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line, 
which  run  from  Halifax  and  Baltimore  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.  (and  thence 
to  Liverpool,  etc.).  The  smaller  vessels  of  the  Red-Cross  Line  (from  New- 
York)  also  run  to  St.  John's. 


Further  particulars  about  those  lines  and  their  accommodations,  the  days 
on  which  they  depart  for  Boston,  etc.,  may  be  found  in  their  advertise- 
ments, which  arc  grouped  at  the  end  of  the  book.  There,  also,  may  be 
found  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  agents  of  the  lines,  from  whom  other 
information  may  be  obtained,  by  letter  or  by  personal  application.  The 
main  question  for  the  summer  tourist  will  naturally  be  whether  he  shall 
go  eastward  by  rail  or  by  a  short  sea-voyage. 


)r 


naviga 

variety 

Thei 

tion  of 

lof  the 

[fertiliz 

[wheat, 

[the  cro 

The. 

i'he  m 

rinter. 


CES. 


hip  Line  de- 
loons.  After 
-Scotia  coast, 
o.  They  call 
f  the  vessel  at 
Or  and  other 
Halifax  with 
amships;  and 
e-Breton  Rail- 
,  Co.,  for  Que- 


l.  R.,  the  Mon- 
Maine  (Lowell 
N^eto  England: 
•om  Quebec  to 
ship  Company, 
d  Nova  Scotia, 
ailvvay  extends 

S.  B.,  to  Mon- 
3  p.  M.  reaches 
ontreal  at  8.5J5 

boro,  and  the 
ely  and  rugged 
ebec  near  Lake 

ssumpsic  line; 

along  the  St. 
the  famous  as- 
'^alley,  and  de- 


id  or  Labrador, 
Ihe  Allan  Line, 
If. (and  thence 
Line  (from  New 


litions,  the  days 
Iheir  advertise- 
L  also,  may  be 
Im  whom  other 
>lication.  The 
tether  he  shall 


MARITIME-PROVINCES  HANDBOOK. 


NEW   BRUNSWICK. 

The  Province  of  New  Brunswick  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
North  Temperate  Zone,  and  is  bounded  by  Maine  and  Quebec  on  the  W., 
Quebec  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  the  Gulf  of  St  Lawrence  and 
the  Northumberland  Strait  on  the  K.,  and  Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  on  the  S.  It  is  140  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  190  M.  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  contains  27,105  square  miles.  The  direct  coast-line  (exclusive  of 
indentations)  is  410  M.,  which  is  nearly  equally  divided  between  the  S. 
and  E.  shores,  and  is  broken  by  many  fine  harbors.  The  Buy  of  Fundy 
on  the  S.,  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  are  of  great  size  and  com- 
mercial importance,  —  the  former  being  140  M.  long  by  30-50  M.  wide; 
the  latter  being  90  M.  long  by  10—25  M.  wide.  The  fisheries  in  the  great 
bays  and  in  the  Gulf  are  of  immense  value,  employing  many  thousand 
men,  and  attracting  large  American  fleets.  They  have  furnished  suste- 
nance to  the  people  of  the  maritime  counties,  and  have  been  the  occasion 
of  developing  a  race  of  skilful  mariners.  During  the  past  50  years  6,000 
vessels  have  been  built  in  this  Province,  valued  at  nearly  $80,000,000. 
The  lumber  business  is  conducted  on  a  vast  scale  on  all  the  rivers,  and 
the  product  amounts  to  several  million  dollars  a  year. 

The  country  is  generally  level,  and  is  crossed  by  low  ridges  in  the  N. 
and  W.  There  are  numerous  lakes,  whose  scenery  is  generally  of  a  sombre 
and  monotonous  clkiracter.  The  interior  is  traversed  by  the  rivers  St. 
John,  Restigouche,  Miramichi,  Petitcodiac,  Nepisiguit,  and  Richibucto, 
which,  with  their  numerous  tributaries,  afford  extensive  facilities  for  boat- 
navigation.  The  river-fisheries  of  New  Brunswick  are  renowned  for  their 
variety  and  richness,  and  attract  many  American  sportsmen. 

There  are  14,000,000  acres  of  arable  land  in  the  Province,  a  great  por- 
tion of  which  has  not  yet  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The  intervales 
I  of  the  rivers  contain  00,000  acres,  and  are  very  rich  and  prolific,  being 
fertilized  by  annual  inundations.  The  chief  agricultural  products  are 
[wheat,  buckwheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  butter,  and  cheese ;  the  value  of 
[the  crops  exceeding  $5,000,000  a  year. 

The  climate  is  less  inclement  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  than  farther  inland. 
The  mean   temperature  for  the  last  ten  years  at  St.  John  was,  for  the 


winter,  Us^;  spring,  37 i°;  summer, 


58°; 


autumn,  44§°.    The  thermoin« 


I 
fi 

if 


U 


NEW   BRUNSWICK. 


eter  ranges  between  —22'  and  87°  as  the  extremes  marked  during  the 
past  ten  years. 

The  present  domain  of  New  Brunswick  was  formerly  occupied  by  two 
distinct  nations  of  Indians.  The  Micmacs  were  an  offshoot  of  the  Alp:on- 
quin  race,  and  inhal)ited  all  the  sea-shore  rojjions.  They  were  pcwerful 
and  hardy,  and  made  darinf:  boatmen  and  fishormen.  The  Milicetes  were 
from  the  Huron  nation,  and  inhabited  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  inland 
forests,  beinj;  skilful  in  hnnMnjj;  and  all  manner  of  woodcraft.  They  were 
less  numerous  and  warlike  than  the  Micmacs.  Roth  trihes  had  a  simple 
and  beautiful  theology,  to  which  was  attached  a  multitude  of  quaint 
mythological  legends. 

This  region  was  included  in  the  ancient  domain  of  Acadie  (or  Acadia), 
which  was  granted  to  the  Sieur  De  Monts  by  King  Henri  IV.  of  France, 
in  1603.  De  Monts  explored  the  St.  .John  River,  and  planted  an  ephemeral 
colony  on  the  St.  Croix,  in  1604.  From  1635  until  1645  the  St.  .John  River 
was  the  scene  of  the  feudal  wars  between  La  Tour  and  Charnisay.  Oliver 
Cromwell  sent  an  expedition  in  1654,  which  occupied  the  country;  but 
it  was  restored  to  France  by  Charles  II.  in  1670.  After  the  war  of  1689- 
97,  this  region  was  again  confirmed  to  France,  ard  its  W.  boundary  was 
located  at  the  St.  George  River,  W.  of  Penobscot  Bay.  Meantime  the 
shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  had  been  set- 
tled by  the  French,  between  1639  and  1672.  The  New-Knglanders  invaded 
the  Province  in  1703,  and  in  1713  Acadia  was  ceded  to  England. 

The  French  limited  the  cession  to  Nova  Scotia,  and  fortified  the  line  of 
the  Mlssiguash  River,  to  protect  the  domains  to  the  N.  In  1755  a  naval 
expedition  from  Boston  took  these  forts,  and  also  the  post  at  St.  John; 
and  in  1758  the  whole  Province  was  occupied  by  Anglo-American  troops. 
In  1763  it  wr    surrendered  to  England  bv  the  Treatv  of  Versailles. 

The  Americans  made  several  attacks  on  northern  Acadia  during  the 
Revolutionary  War,  but  were  prevented  from  holding  the  coimtry  by  the 
British  fleets  at  Halifax.  At  the  close  of  the  war  many  thousands  of 
American  Loyalists  retired  from  the  United  States  to  this  and  the  adjoin- 
ing countries.  In  1784  New  Brunswick  was  organized  as  a  Province, 
having  been  previously  dependent  on  Nova  Scotia;  and  in  1788  the  capi- 
tal was  established  at  Fredericton.  Immigration  from  Great  Britain  now 
commenced,  and  the  forests  began  to  give  way  before  the  lumbermen.  In 
1839  the  Province  called  out  its  militia  on  the  occasion  of  the  boundary 
disputes  with  Maine;  and  in  1861  it  was  occupied  with  British  troops  on 
accoimt  of  the  possibility  of  a  war  with  the  United  States  about  the  Trent 
affair.  In  1865  Now  Brunswick  refused,  by  a  p  pular  vote,  to  enter  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  but  it  accepted  the  plan  the  next  year,  and  became 
a  part  of  the  Dominion  in  1867. 

The  population  of  New  Brunswick  was  74,176  in  1824,  154,000  in  1810, 
280,777  in  1871,  32I,2o3  in  1881,  and  321,294  in  189L 


nfirked  during  the 

ly  occupied  by  two 
Oioot  of  tlie  Aljron- 
hey  Avere  pcwerful 
Tlie  Milicetes  were 
Iley  niul  the  inland 
Icnift.  They  were 
trilies  had  a  simple 
luhitude  of  quaint 

Lcadie  (or  Acadin), 
end  IV.  of  France, 
anted  an  ephemeral 
)  the  St.  John  River 
Charnisay.  Oliver 
1  the  country;  but 
T  the  war  of  1689- 
«  W.  boundary  was 
ly.  Meantime  the 
rence  had  been  set- 
I*^np:landers  invaded 
Eneland. 

fortified  the  line  of 

J.    In  1755  a  naval 

post  at  St.  John; 

n- American  troops. 

Versailles. 

Acadia  durincj  the 

the  country  by  the 

lany  thousands  of 

lis  and  the  adjoin- 

jed  as  a  Province, 

1  in  17F8  the  capi- 

Great  Britain  now 

e  lumbermen.     In 

of  the  boundary 

British  troops  on 

s  about  the  Trent 

vote,  to  enter  the 

year,  and  became 

104,000  in  1810, 


6 


n. 
I). 
I). 
I). 
I). 

D. 


I). 
11. 

12. 

i;i. 

14. 

I.-.. 
111. 

17. 
IS. 
ll». 
2<l. 
L'i. 
21,'. 


.Murine  II(>si)ital I>. 

City  Hospital F. 

Wijffriiis  Asyhiiii 1^. 

Cemetery K. 

Kind's  Stiuare K. 

QlU'en'^^  S(iiiaru I). 

Catliedral K.  2, 

Trinity  Ciiurcli I>. 

St.  Paul's K. 

St.  John's K. 

St.  Andrew's \). 

Intercolonial  and  C.  V.  H.  Station     .  1). 

Canadian  I'acific  K.  II C. 


6 


20.  Cantilever  R.  R.  Bridge  .    .    .  A.  1 

^  ;«».  Marnh  Bridjre F.  2 

B  .'}1.  Suspension  Bridge A.  1 

•U  Reed's  Point C  4 

iW.  Negrotown  Point A.  ."> 


WEST   SIDE. 

.'M.   City  Hall B.  2 

.15.    Market B.  .'! 

;!().    Martollo  Tower A.  .'! 

;i7.   Lunatic  AsvUmi A.  1 

;X   Church  of  th"  A.ssuniption     .  A.  .'? 

a).   St.  Jade's A.  4 

4().   St.  George'a A.  2 


IIOTl 


2.1.  Dnfferin  . 
24.  Clifton  .  . 
2.5.  Royal  .  .  . 
2(1.  New  Victoria 
27.  Victoria  .  . 
2.S.   Clarendon  . 


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ST.  JOHN. 


JtouU  1.    15 


1.   St.  John. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  Soon  nffer  passina:  Noffro  Head,  the  steamerruns 
bv  I'lutridiie  Isianit,  tlie  round  Jind  rrx-ky  iruanl  of  the  Intrhor  of  St.  .John  Its 
Precipitous  sides  are  fCiimed  witii  deep  ciefrs  iind  luirrow  chusnis,  and  on  the  upland 
fre  swn  tlie  Quarantine  Hospital,  the  buildiiiiis  of  the  steam  fof?-horn  and  the  iiitht- 
)use,  and  tlie  ruins  of  a  olilf  hatter}  .  On  the  I.  is  the  bold  headland  of  Nesfrotown 
?oint,  crowned  by  dilapidtted  earthworks.  Tl)e  course  now  leads  in  by  the  Beacon- 
Ight  (I.  side),  with  the  Martello  Tower  on  (Jarleton  Heights,  and  the  high-placed 
It.  Jude's  Church  on  the  I.  In  front  are  the  green  slopes  and  barnicUs  of  the  Mili- 
ary Grounds,  beyond  which  are  the  populous  hills  of  St.  John. 
Hotels. —  The  Royal  Hotel,  on  KinjT  Sti-eet,  and  the  Hotel  Dufferin,  at  the  cor- 
jr  of  King  Square  and  Charlotte  Street,  are  comfortable  houses,  charging  $3-3.50 
,  day.  The  New  Victoria  is  on  Princess  Street,  The  Clifton,  Victoria,  and  Clar- 
idon  are  smaller  houses. 

Amusements.  —  Theatrical  performances  and  othe?  entertainments  are  fre- 
quently given  at  the  handsome  new  Music  Hall,  on  Union  Street.     Lectures  and 
[>ncerts  are  given  in  the  hall  of  the  Mechanics'  Institute,  near  the  head  of  Qermain 
Itreet. 

Keatllnu- Rooms. —  Tlie  Young  Men's  (^hri<tian  Association,  on  Chario'te 
It.,  near  King  Sijuare ;  open  from  9  a.  m.  until  10  p  M.  The  Mechanics'  Institute, 
^ear  the  head  of  Germain  St.,  has  an  extensive  variety  of  Britisli  pjipers  on  file. 
Carriages.  —  For  a  course  within  the  city,  30c.  for  one  pjis.s<«nger,  10c.  for  <•  ich 
iditional  one.  For  each  half-hour,  50c.  If  the  river  is  crossed  by  ferry  the  pas- 
snger  pays  the  toll,  which  is,  for  a  double  carriage,  15c.  each  way. 
Street-Cars  run  from  Market  Square  through  Dock  and  Mill  Sts.,  to  the  ter- 
linus  of  the  river  steamboat-lines,  at  Indiantown  ;  and  to  Reed'S  Point  and  else- 
where. 
IJailways.  —  The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
runs  \V  to  Van  e'>oro  (92  .M  ),  conn»-cti':g  for  all  points  in  Maine,  aud  for  Boston 
ind  New  York,  and  also  for  (Quebec,  Motjtr.al,  and  the  West.  It  also  connects  up 
Ihe  St. -.John  Valley,  by  way  of  Frodericton,  with  the  St. -Lawrence  Valley;  and 
lown  the  St.-(?roix  Valley,  with  St.  Stephen  and  St  Andrews.  The  Shore  Line 
runs  to  St.  Stephen  direct.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  E.  to  Shediac,  Truro, 
md  Halifax  (276  M.),  and  to  Quebec. 

Steamships*  —  The  International  Steamship  Com- 

Ipany  despit'ii  their  sei  worthy  vessels  from  St.  .Toliti  In-  Kosfon.  tout'liiiig  at  Kast- 
Iport  and  Portland,  antl  connecting  wiMi  sNv.niers  fd,-  *t  Andrews,  St.  Stephen, 
|Calais,and  (Irand  Manin.  In  .Ian.  nn<I  Feb.  they  le.tvf  St.  .lolm  on  Thursdays; 
from  M trcli  to  July,  and  from  Sept.  22  to  .1  m  ,  they  leave  on  Mondays  and  Thurs- 
lavs  :  and  -Inly,  Aug.,  and  e.irly  Sept.,  on  Monday,  Wednesdiy ,  and  Friday.  Sail- 
ling  time, 7.25a.m.  Fare  to  Boston,  .•::!  4.50  Time,  St.  .loiin  to  Kistport,  4  hrs.  ;  to 
jPortlin  I,  l:(  hrs.  ;  to  Boston,  27  lirs.  The  Annapolis  .vteamers  cross  the  Bay  of 
fKundy  to  Digby  and  Annapolis  several  times  weekly,at 7. 30a, M., connecting  at  An- 
Inai)  .lis  with  the  railway  for  Halifax. 

The  steamers  of  the  Union  Line  leave  Indiantown  daily  a'  9  a.  m.,  for  Frederio- 
|ton  and  the  intermediate  landlnits. 

Steamboats  leave  St  .lohn  for  U'ashademoak  Lake, Grand  Lake,  and  Belle  Isle  Bay 
[(llaffleld's  Point)  ;forSpen(«r"s  Island,  Parrsboro  I'ier,  Kingsport,  and  llantsport, 
Ion  the  Basin  <1  .Minas,  every  Thursday  ;  for  Weyni  'Utii,  N.  S.,  every  Wednesday; 
[for  Kastport.  Campobello,  »nd  Grand  Manan,  every  Tuesday;  'or  Ktstport,  Bat 
j Harbor,  and  New  York,  every  Tuesday  j  for  liastport,  Rocklaud,  Cottage  City  (Mass.), 
[aud  New  York,  every  Tuesday. 

The  Carleton  ferr> -steamers  leave  (he  foot  of  Princess  St  every  lo  nuniite-'  until 
9.30  P.M.     Fare,  3c.;  for  one-horse  carriages,  9c.;  for  two  horse  carriages,  15  c. 

The  ('lifUm  makes  cripj  vroni  Indiautowu  to  Mu8s  liiuu,  Clliuu,  uud  Uaujpton, 
up  tue  bvuutilul  Keuucbuca.  Is  ^.<ee  page:^  U^  uuU  Uj. 


1 6      Jtoute  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


St.  John,  the  chief  city  of  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick  and  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Baj'  of   Fundy,  occupies  a  commanding; 
position  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  Kiver.     From  its  favorable  situation 
for  the  purposes  of  commerce  it  has  been  termed   "the   Liverpool  ol 
Canada."     The  ridge  upon  which  St.  John  is  built  is  composed  of  solii 
rock,  through  which  streets  have  been  cut  at  great  expense ;  and  the  plan  of  tli 
streets  is  regular,  including  a  succession  of  rectangular  squares.  The  cit 
is  one  of  the  chief  ship-owning  ports  of  the  British  Empire,  and  aspires  t 
be  the  winter-port  of  Canada.    It  has  39,000  inhabitants  in  the  South  En 
(old  St.  John),  the  North  End  (formerly  Portland),  and  the  West  Side  (Carl- 
ton).     Lieut.-Gov.  Sir  Leonard  Tillfy  dwells  in  Carleton  House.     Amon. 
tho  more  noticeable  modern  buildings  are  the  Wesleyan  "Cathedral"  anc 
the  Queen-Square  Church ;  St.  Andrew's,  on  the  site  of  the  Old  Kirk,  an( 
St.  David's,  Presbyterian  churches  with  fine  stained-glass  windows;  i\\\ 
handsome  stone  edifice  of  the  Union  Club,  on  Germain  Street ;  and  the  In- 1 
tercolonial  Railway  station,  the  finest  in  Canada  east  of  Montreal.     Th( 
steel  cantilever  bridge,  over  the  falls  of  the  St.  John  River,  belongs  to  a 
company,  and  cost  over  $000,000.     Over  this  great  engineering  work  the  | 
railwav  from  the  westward  enters  St.  John  and  the  Intercolonial  station 

ft' 

The  harbor  is  good,  and  is  kept  free  from  ice  by  the  high  tides  of  the  Baj 
of  Fundy  and  the  sweeping  current  of  the  St.  John  River.  It  is  usual!} 
we'll  filled  with  shipping,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  wharves  and  mills. 
St.  John  has  41  churches,  4  banks,  and  4  daily  and  several  weekly  papers. 

Kitif)  Street  is  the  main  business  street  of  the  city,  and  runs  from  the  I 
harbor  across  the  peninsula  to  Courtenay  Bay.  All  the  principal  shop?. 
are  on  this  street,  between  the  harbor  and  King  Square,  and  along  Prina 
William  St.,  which  intersects  it  near  the  water.  At  the  foot  of  the  street 
is  the  Market  Slip,  into  which  the  light  packet-boats  and  produce-vessels 
from  the  adjacent  rural  counties  bring  wood  and  provisions  for  the  use 
of  the  city.  At  low  tide,  these  vessels  are,  for  the  most  part,  left  to 
hold  themselves  up  on  the  muddy  flats.  At  this  point  landed  the  weary  :| 
and  self-exiled  American  Loyalists,  in  1783,  and  founded  the  city  of  St 
John.  The  rather  dreary  breadth  of  King  St.  is  occupied  in  its  lowor  | 
part  by  wagoners  and  unemployed  workmen.  From  this  point  the  street 
ascends  a  steep  hill,  passing  the  chief  retail  sliops,  a)i<l  several  banks  and 
hotels,  with  numerous  fine  buildings  on  the  rebuilt  district.  King  Square 
is  an  open  space  of  about  3  acres  in  area,  studded  witli  trees,  and  adorned 
in  the  centre  with  a  fountain.  Before  the  great  fire,  its  entrance  was 
adorned  with  a  ]>retentious  triuniplial  arch,  erected  in  honor  of  Prince 
Artiiur's  visit,  and  afterwards  utili/ed  for  sustaining  the  fire-alarm  bell. 
The  City  Market  House  is  on  the  E.,  and  exhibits  the  products  of  this 
region  on  well-arranged  stalls.  A  few  steps  N.  W.  of  the  Square  (on 
Charlotte  St.)  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  containing  a  large  hall,  gyumasium,  parlors,  and  cla^s-rooms. 
The  library  and  reading-room  are  open  daily  (except  Sunday)  from  9  A.  M. 
to  10  P.  M.,  and  strangers  are  welcomed.    The  building  cost  $38,000,  and 


mi 


ST.  JOHN. 


Route  1.      17 


ew  Brunswick  and  the 
cciipies  a  commanding 
n  its  favorable  situation  J 
led   "the   Liverpool  ol 
ilt  is  composed  of  soli( 
)ense ;  and  the  plan  of  tti 
gular  squares.  The  cit 
1  Empire,  and  aspires  t 
)itants  in  the  South  Ei; 
,nd  the  West  Side  (Cari. 
arleton  House.     Amon, 
leyan  "Cathedral"  anc 
te  of  the  Old  Kirk,  aiu 
ned-pflass  windows;  th. 
lain  Street ;  and  the  In- 
east  of  Montreal.     Tin 
^ohn  River,  belonj^s  to  s 
at  engineering  work  the 
le  Intercolonial  station, 
le  high  tides  of  the  Baj 
in  River.     It  is  usual! j 
with  wharves  and  mills. 
[  several  weekly  papers, 
citv,  and  runs  from  the 
k\\  the  principal  shop.'J 
uare,  and  along  Pr'incf 
t  the  foot  of  the  street 
ts  and  produce-vessels 
provisions  for  the  u«o 
the  most  part,  left  to 
)oint  landed  the  weary 
bunded  the  city  of  St.  ;| 
occupied  in  its  lower 
m  this  point  the  street 
and  several  banks  and 
jstrict.    King  Square 
I'ith  trees,  and  udonie<! 
lire,  it.s  entrance  was 
(I  in  honor  of  PriiKr 
"  the  lire-alarm  bell. 
the  products  of  this 
.  of  the  Square  (on 
ung  Men's  Christian 
lors,  and  cla^s-roonis. 
Sunday)  from  9  A.  m. 
ng  cost  $  38,000,  and 


dedicated  in  1872,  but  subsequently  gave  signs  of  inst.ibility,  and  has 
Ice  been  strengtiiened  at  con.si(leral)le  expense.  The  v.'ounty  Court 
^use  and  Jail  are  at  tiie  S.  E.  corner  of  King  Sc^uare,  and  are  antiquated 
lioniely  stone  buihlings.  To  the  E.  is  tlie  Old  Jjiiri/ituj-O round,  con- 
Ining  tile  graves  of  tlie  pioneers  of  tlie  province,  wiili  epitaphs  in  many 
|es  (juaiiit  and  interesting. 

^'tinity  Churcli  extends  from  Germain  St.  to  Charlotte  St.,  near  Prin- 

|s  St.,  and  is  the  finest  church-building  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  being 

ssively  constructed  of  gray  stone,  with  rambling  connections,  and  a 

[y  stiiiving  interior.     Occupying  a  conspicuous  position  near  the  crest 

Llie  hill,  it  is  visible  for  a  great  distance.     The  lirst  church  on  this  site 

l)uilt  in  1788,  and  contained  mural  tablets  and  the  ll  >\al  Arms  from 

Old  State  House,  Boston,  brought  by  the  Loyal iats  iu  178ii.     Tuis 

lerable  buihling  was  destroyed  in  tlie  great  hre  of  lb77.     Not  far  from 

Inity  is  the  Masonic  Temple,  a  large  and  costly  new  edifice  of  brick. 

le  i)ublis]iing  house  of  the  McMillans  is  on  an  adjacent  street,  with  its 

iiiting-office  and  book-store. 

W  ascending  tiie  third  street  (Queen)  to  the  1.,  Queen  Square  is  reached, 

[a  well-kept    park    surrounded    witli   dwelling-houses.      A   short  dis- 

Ice  to  the  E.,  on  St.  James  St.,  is  the  Wiggins  Male  Orphan  Institu- 

)i,  a  building  in  Gothic  architecture,  of  red  and  gray  sandstone. 

fs  the  most  elegant  and  symmetrical  structure  of  its  size  in  the  Prov- 

},  and  cost  over  .^100,000,  but  is  only  adecpiate  to  the  accommodation 

JO  ori)hans.     The  Marine  Hospital  is  in  this  vicinity. 

short  walk  out  Sydney  St.  or  Caermarthen  St.  leads  to  the  Military 
mnds,  on  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  i)eninsula.  Here  is  a  spacious 
rade-ground,  which  is  now  used  only  by  the  cricket  and  base-ball  clubs, 
th  a  drill-shed  which  will  hold  2,000  soldiers.  These  grounds  were 
[nierly  occupied  by  largo  detachnionts  from  the  British  army,  whose 
[cers  wore  a  desired  acquisition  to  the  society  of  the  city,  while  the  mili- 
baiids  amused  the  people  by  concerts  on  Queen  Square. 
^riuc.i'  WiUinm  Street  runs  S.  fi'om  Miirket  Square  to  Heed's  Point,  and 
^ne  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  containing  several  hotels  and 
je  of  the  largest  sho]>s.  Where  it  crf)sses  Princess  St.,  the  Carleton 
ry  is  seen  to  the  r.  The  *  Post-Office  is  an  elegant  building  of  gray 
dstone,  at  the  corner  of  Princess  St.  ;  opposite  wliicli  is  the  new  City 
?/,  a  h.uidsonie  stone  building.  The  Savings  Bank,  the  Bank  of  New 
|niswick,  and  other  institutions,  are  luxuriously  domiciled  in  this  vi- 
Ity.  The  great  lire  of  1S77,  which  destroyed  several  millions'  worth 
property  in  St.  Jolin,  swept  this  district  clean,  and  many  ele<jant  new 
lldings  have  since  arisen.  The  *  Custom  House  is  of  creamy  Dorches- 
fsandstone,  costing  .^  250,000,  witli  iron  roofs  and  tire-proof  lloors,  and 
tall  towers  for  the  time-ball,  the  shipping  signals,  and  the  storm- 
ini.  It  contains  sevenil  of  the  provincio-national  ofliccs.  ami  a  storm- 
lal  station  which  receives  warnings  from  "Old  Probabilities"  at  V/ash- 


18      Route  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


I 


ington  and  Toronto.  The  street  ends  at  ReeiVs  Point,  the  headquarters  of 
several  lines  of  coi sting-steamers,  whence  may  be  seen  the  Breakwater,  W. 
of  the  Military  Grounds. 

At  the  N.  end  of  Germain  St.  is*  the  old  Stone  Churchy  a  sanctuar}'  of 
the  Episcopalians  under  the  invocation  of  St.  .John.  Its  square  stone 
tower  is  visible  for  a  long  distance,  on  account  of  the  elevation  of  the  site 
on  which  it  stands.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  l)rick  Cnlvin  Church  (Presby- 
terian); and  in  the  same  vicinity  is  the  classic  wooden  front  of  the  J/t- 
chanica'  Institute,  which  has  a  large  hall. 

The  reading-room  is  supplied  with  Canadian  and  British 
newspapers,  and  the  library  contains  about  7,000  volumes  (open  from  2^  to 
5  o'clock). 

The  Roman  Catholic  *  Cathedral  is  situated  on  Waterloo  St.,  and  is 
the  largest  church  in  the  Province.  It  is  constructed  of  marble  and  sand- 
stone, in  pointed  architecture,  and  has  a  tall  and  graceful  h^pire. 
The  interior  is  in  a  style  of  the  severest  simplicity,  the  Gothic  arches  of 
the  clere-story  being  supj)orted  on  plain  and  massive  piers.  The  window? 
are  of  stained  glass,  and  are  very  brilliant  and  rich.  The  chancel  ami 
transept  windows  are  large  and  of  fine  design ;  a  rose  window  is  placed  over 
the  organ-loft;  and  the  side  windows  represent  Saints  Bernard,  Dominic, 
Ambrose,  Jerome,  ^'ark,  Matthew,  Andrew,  Benedict,  Francis,  John. 
Luke,  Augustine,  and  Gregory.  The  building  is  200  ft.  long,  and  110  ft. 
wide  at  the  transepts.  The  Bishop's  Palace  is  the  fine  sandstone  buildiiij; 
towards  Cliff  St.,  beyond  which  is  the  extensive  building  of  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  fronting  on  Cliff  St.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
plain  brick  building  of  the  Nuiuiery.  The  visitor  should  notice,  over  the 
Cathedral  portal  adjacent  to  the  Nunnery,  the  great  marble  bas-relief  of 
the  Last  Supper  (after  Leonardo  Da  Vinci's  painting  at  ^lilan). 

From  this  point  Waterloo  St.  descends  to  the  ^larsli  Bridge,  at  the  head 
of  Courtenay  Bay.  By  ascending  Cliff  St.  for  a  short  distance,  a  point 
may  be  reached  from  which  arc  seen  the  Valley,  with  its  churches  ani 
streets,  and  the  embowered  villas  on  Mount  Pleasant,  over  which  rises  the 
Academy  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (once  Keed's  ('astle).  Noble  viewo  of  thf 
Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  St.  John  Wiver  and  its  blue  highland  walls  are 
gained  from  the  estate  of  Mr.  J.  Murray  Kay  (now  of  Brookline,  Mass.). 

The  General  Public  Ifo.yiital  is  situated  on  a  bold  rocky  knoll  which 
overlooks  the  Marsh  Vallev,  and  is  entered  from  Waterloo  St.  It  consi-  ts 
of  a  large  brick  building  and  accommodates  60  patients. 

The  structure  pertains  to  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1865  at  a  cost  of 
$64,000.  Directly  below  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  knoll  on  which  it  is 
built  is  the  broad  Marsh,  covered  with  houses,  and  extending  on  the  r. 
to  Courtenay  Bay.  The  geologists  entertain  a  plausible  theory  that  In 
remote  ages  the  St.  .John  River  flowed  down  this  valley  from  the  Kenne- 
becasis  to  the  sea,  until  finally  the  present  channel  through  the  Narrows 
was  opened  by  some  convulsion  of  nature. 


ST.  JOHN. 


Route  1. 


19 


it,  the  headquarters  of 
in  the  Breakwater,  W. 

hurch,  a  sanctuary  of 
in.  Its  square  stone 
e  elevation  of  the  site 
ilvin  Church  (Preshy- 
)den  front  of  the  J/(- 

Danadian  and  Britisli 
innes(open  from  2^  to 

Waterloo  St.,  and  is 
I  of  marble  and  sand- 
graceful  t;pire. 
the  Gothic  arches  of 
piers.  The  windows 
li.  The  chancel  and 
vindow  is  placed  over  . 
ts  Bernard,  Dominic, 
diet,  Francis,  John, 
3  ft.  long,  and  110  fr.  '■ 
le  sandstone  build inu 
ilding  of  the  Orphan 
the  Cathedral  is  tlie 
tuld  notice,  over  tlie 
marble  bas-relief  of 
It  JMilan). 

Bridge,  at  the  head 
irt  distance,  a  point  I 
th  its  churches  and 
over  which  rises  the 
Noble  views  of  the 
higldand  walls  are 
Brookline,  Mass.). 
rocky  knoll  which 
rloo  St.     It  consi- ts 
nodates  80  patients, 
in  1865  at  a  cost  of 
knoll  on  which  it  is 
extending  on  the  r. 
iible  theory  that  in 
ey  from  the  Kenne- 
irough  the  Narrows 


[That  suburb  which  is  known  as  the  Valley  lies  between  the  rocky  hills 

tlie  city  proper  and  the  line  of  Mount  Pleasant.  It  is  reached  from 
png  Square  by  Charlotte  and  Cobourg  Streets,  and  contains  the  tracks 

id  station  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  most  prominent  object  in 
[e  Valley  is  St.  PauVs  Church  (Episcopal),  a  graceful  wooden  edifice  with 

msepts,  a  clere-story,  and  a  tall  spire.     The  windows  are  of  stained  glass. 

le  brick  church  of  St.  Stephen  and  the  Owen's  Art  ^Sc•hool  with  its  pic- 
|re-gallery  are  slW)  situated  in  the  Valley,  ami  the  road  to  Lily  Lake  di- 
jrgos  to  tlie  r.  from  the  latter.  Farther  to  the  E.,  on  the  City  Road,  is 
le  Vlctona  Skating  Rink,  a  round  wooden  building,  160  ft.  in  diameter, 
ivered  with  a  domed  mof.     Lausdowne  Ilink  and  the  Palace  Kiiik  are 

nous  resorts  for  curlers  and  skaters,  on  Charlotte  Street. 

The  site  of  St.  John  was  the  Menagwes  of  ancient  Micmac  tradition,  where  the 

ine  Glooscap  once  had  his  lionie.     Ilonce,  during  liis  absence,  his  attendants 
carried  away  by  a  powerful  evil  iiiagiciiin,  wiiollcd  with  them  to  Grand  Manan, 
Lpe  Breton,  and  Newfoundland,  where  iie  was  pursued  by  Glooscap,   who  rode 

ich  of  the  way  on  the  biu-ks  of  whales  which  he  called  in  from  the  deep  sea. 

using  through  Cape  Breton,  ho  at  length  reached  the  dark  Newfoundland  shores, 
lere  he  assumed  such  a  stature  that  the  clouds  rolled  about  his  head.  The  evil- 
|iiig  wizard  was  soon  found  and  put  to  death  and  the  servants  of  Glooscap  were 

free. 

the  site  of  St.  John  was  discovered  by  Champlain  and  De  Monts,  on  St.  John'g 
ky  (June  24),  1it04,  but  was  not  occupied  for  30  years  after. 

Claiule  de  la  Tour,  a  Huguenot  noble,  was  o:ie  of  the  earliest  of  the  French  adven- 
|rers  in  this  region,  and  received  a  grant  of  all  Acadia  from  Charles  I.  of  England. 

er  his  repui.«e  and  humiliation  (.see  Route  25),  the  French  government  divided 
badia  into  three  provinces,  placing  there  as  governors,  M.  Denys,  Razilly,  and  the 
lung  and  chivulrous  Charles  de  St.  Estienne,  Lord  of  La  Tour  (son  of  Claude). 
>nys  contented  himself  witli  the  ocean-fisheries  from  Canso  and  Cape  Breton. 
izilly.'ioon  died,  leaving  his  domain  to  his  kinsman  Charles  de  Menou,Sieurd"Aul- 
\y  Charnisiiy,  who  was  also  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu.  D'Aulnr.y  and  La  Tour 
^an  to  quarrel  about  the  boundaries  of  their  jurisdictions,  and  the  former  em- 
jyed  a  powerful  intluen  i;  at  the  Court  of  France  toaidhiscau.se.  Louis  XIII. 
iially  ordered  him  to  cai  ry  La  Tour  to  France,  in  chains,  ami  open  war  ensuej 
^twcen  these  patrici.m  adventurers.     La  Tour  had  erecte  I  a  fort  at  St.  John  in 

1,  whence  he  carried  on  a  lucrative  fur-trade  with  the  Indians.     In  1643  this 

jnghold  was  attacked  by  D'Aulnay  with  six  vessels,  but  La  Tour  escaped  on  the 
ip  CUmrnt,  leaving  his  garrison  to  hold  the  works.  He  entered  Boston  Harbor 
Ith  140  Huguenots  of  La  Rochelle,  and  sought  aid  from  Massachusetts  agiinst  the 
Itholic  forces  which  were  besieging  him.  The  austere  Puritans  referred  to  the 
|ble  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  precedent  for  such  action,  but  found  no  certain 
jpon.se  from  that  oracle.  "On  the  one  hand,  it  was  siiid  that  the  speech  of  the 
i'ophet  to  Jehoshaphat,  in  2d  Chronicles  xix.  2,  and  the  portion  of  Solomon's 

jverbs  contained  in  chap,  xxvi,  17th  verse,  not  only  discharged  them  from  any 
^ligation,  but  actually  forbade  them  to  assist  La  Tour;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
fwas;igreed  that  it  was  as  lawful  for  them  to  give  him  succor  as  it  was  for  Joshua 

aid  the  Gibeonites  against  the  rest  of  the  Canaanites,  or  for  .lehosh:iphat  to  ai  I 

>horam  iigainst  Moab,  in  which  expedition  Elishawas  present,  and  did  not  reprove 

ie  King  of  Judah."     But  when  they  had  assured  thenwelvos  th;it  it  would  bo 

llow.ible  f  r  them  to  aid  the  distressed  nobleman,  they  sent  such  a  fleet  that  D'Aul- 

^y's  forces  were  quickly  scattered,  and  the  siege  was  raided.     Two  years  later, 

lile  La  Tour  was  absent,  D'Aulnay  ag.iiu  attacked  tlie  fort,  but  was  handsomely 

)ul>ed  (with  a  Io,ss  of  33  men)  by  the  little  garrison,  he.ide  I  by  Madame  L.i  Tour. 

Jme  months  later  he  returned,  and  opened  a  regular  siege  on  the  landward  ."ide 

It!  fort  was  in  Carleton,  near  Navy  Islind;      After  three  diys  of  fighting  a  tre«u-h- 

)us  Swiss  sentry  admitteti  the  enemy  into  the  works  ;  and  even  then  Miulame  La 

>ur  led  her  troops  so  g.illantly  that  the  victor  g.ive  her  her  own  terms.    These 


I 


i 


1 

i 

t 

i 

\  j 
1 

" 


•  » 


! 


20     7?()«/tf  I. 


ST.   .lOHN. 


tcrmB,  however,  worn  »hnmrnilly  vfolntod,  Rtid  tho  (pirrlson  wns  nmHriwrtMl  boforo 
her  fiuM*.  ThnH>  weeks  aflerwnni,  slie  tiled  of  a  lu'okeii  heiirt  La  Ttiur  ennie  back  i 
to  St.  John  fonie  \enrs  l!it«>r,  and  found  thnt  D'Aulniiy  wii.>»  dead.  whenMipon  lui' 
effivtuftllv  ri'oaptun'd  his  old  domain  l»v  niarrvlii)^  the  widow  (»t  the  eont|uerorl 
iUVi'S)  b'Anlnav  died  in  ItiiM),  li;ivlii»r  spent  S(KI,(MH)  livres  in  Aeadia,  and  hnilt  fi  i 
fortn»wes,  2  seininarles,  and  several  elinrelies.  lie  had  several  sons,  all  of  whoni 
entered  the  Kn»neh  army,  and  were  slain  in  the  service. 

In  Ktt^t)  a  sharp  enjra^rement  took  plaiM>  in  St.  .lolm  hartior,  between  tho  Kn'neli 
fVifr<'«te  Union  and  two  Kn^lish  vessels.  The  former  had  enten-d  the  harbor  beariii)^ 
the  Chevalier  de  Villebon,  anil  was  taken  at  a  disadvanta^je.  After  a  severe  eann«in- 
a«le,  the  Union  hanled  down  lier  eolors.  Villebon  soon  descended  the  river  with 
a  jvirty  of  Indians  and  attjtcked  the  ships,  but  without  success.  In  If'.Stt?,  wliile  tlu>: 
Chevalier  de  Villebon  m»verned  Acadia  from  the  upjii-r  St  .John  and  hurled  de 
ntnietive  Indian  hands  upon  New  Kuj^laud,  Massachusetts  sent  tlip'e  men-of-war  tir 
bhM'knde  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  cut  oil  his  supplies.  They  w«'re  soon  attac  kcd 
by  1>" Iberville's  French  frigates,  ami  made  a  ih'sperate  resi,^tanee.  lint  the  I\'fK<- 
/»or/,  24,  wa«  unable  lo  wiMistand  tlie  heavy  lire  of  the  I'lofom/,  nuil  soon  lay  di,>i- 
nia.sted  and  helpless.  After  her  surrender  the  olhi-r  American  vessels  escaped 
under  eover  of  a  thick  fo^.  Anew  lle«>l  from  Hoslon  soon  afterwards  overhauled 
the  Kreneh  IVigates,  ernisinj?  betwe«'n  Moinit  Desert  and  St.  .fohn,  and  captured 
the  fV()/oMf/,  with  >i.  de  Villebon,  the  (lovernor  of  Aeadia,  on  board  In  ITdl  the 
fort  of  St.  John  wa.s  dismantled  by  llrouillan  ;  but  in  17(»H  it  was  rebuilt,  and  had 
4  bastions  and  24  pitves  of  artillery 

In  July,  174S>,  11  H.  M.  sloop-of-war  Mhnny  entered  the  harbor  and  drove  away 
the  Kn'ueh  troops,  lowering;  also  the  stJindard  «>f  France  The  frigates  Iloiinil  and 
York  had  a  skinnish  with  tlu>  French  here  in  ITfA*,  and  wen'  onh'red  out  of  tlic 
port  by  Hoishcbcrt,  the  eonunandant  of  the  fort.  In  IT.V),  four  llritish  war-vessel.i 
entered  the  harb(»r,  and  the  Ficnch  ir-Mrrison  demolished  the  fort,  blew  »ip  the  niiu;- 
a7.hu>,  :ind  i"etreat<'d  into  the  country.  !»•  ITAS  Fort  ha  Tour  wa.s  still  narri.«-()n<  (1 
by  French  soldiers,  but,  af>er  a  shoi  t  sit  ■  by  an  Anglo-American  force,  the  poM 
was  snrnMidert'd  at  discretion.  Two  year?.  later,  the  jdace  was  visit«'d  by  Jaunv 
Simonds,  an  atlventurous  New-Fuglander,  who  was,  ho\>ever,  .-oon  driven  away  1  y 
the  Indians,  "  Catholics  and  allies  of  France.''  In  ITtVl  he  returned  with  a  partv 
of  M.is.saeh\isetts  tisliennen,  and  settled  on  the  j)resent  site  of  tlie  city,  erecting  dc 
lensive  wtirks  oti  Portland  Heights,  under  the  name  of  Fort  Howe  In  ITT.O  a  nav.ii 
expedition  of  Americmis  from  Machias  entered  the  harbor  and  destnncd  the  oM 
FriMich  fin'titications  (then  tailed  Ft>rt  FretU>rick),  cttmpleting  their  work  by  plun- 
dering ami  btunbarding  the  village.  May  IS,  ITSJi,  a  Hritisli  ih'ct  airlvetl  ni  tlif 
port  bringing  ri,(HH)  of  the  self-styletl  ''liiitetl  Kuipire  littuilists,"  Americans  wlm 
>ver»»  loyal  tt)  King  (icoige  ami  cttultl  nt>t  or  woultl  not  reu  ain  in  the  new  Keiaibiic 
of  the  United  States.  From  this  tlay  may  be  dated  the  growth  of  the  rily  of  St. 
John. 

New  Brunswick  was  set  olT  fi'om  Nova  Scotia  as  a  .separate  I'rtivince  the  next 
year,  ami  in  ITSti  its  first  Lt  gi.-lative  Assembly  waj*  lonvcnetl  here.  In  17S" 
Trinity  Ch»M-ch  was  foundt  il ;  in  17SS  harbor-lights  were  establisheil  on  Partritlgc 
Island,  ami  in  \~\^^  the  Hot/al  linzitti  was  started  in  1H.'}7  one  third  of  the  com- 
mercial  i>tirtit»n  of  the  city  was  lun-netl,  invtihinga  lt)>s  of  .t'2r)0,0(M).  During  the 
boundary  tlispute  with  the  State  of  Maine  (1S!]!>-  42)  the  citizens  were  all  ennillcil 
and  drilietl  in  militjiry  exerci.'^es,  in  preparatit)n  for  a  war  on  the  borders.  Larue 
ft>rtunes  were  made  by  the  nien-hants  timing  the  Crinican  war,  when  the  llritish 
timbt>r-niarkct,  which  hatl  dciu'inlctl  largely  on  the  I'altic  ports  ft)r  its  supply,  w.is 
by  their  clt>s«ng  ftir.  etl  tti  tlraw  lii>avil\  t)n  the  Ameritan  l*n)vinces.  The  last  hi."- 
torie  event  at  St.  Jtdin  was  its  mcuivation,  in  the  winter  of  IStU.  by  several  of  tlie 
chtiicest  n'giments  of  the  llritish  army,  among  which  were  the  (Jreiindier  (inards, 
the  SetUch  Fusiliers,  antl  other  >litf  ror/'s.  Atter  the  jieaceful  solution  of  the  Tiiut 
afTinr  this  ft>rmitlable  garri.^on  was  removed,  and  the  city  huf  since  been  left  to 
prt>sper  in  the  arts  ol  peace  anil  industry. 

"  Heiv  is  jticturestjue  St.  .Itihn,  with  its  couple  of  centuries  of  history  and  tradi- 
tion, its  commerces,  its  enterpri.<e  felt  all  alt)ng  the  coast  and  through  the  settli'- 
nients  of  the  territory  to  the  nt>rtheast,  with  its  no  doubt  charming  society  ami 
soMd  English  culture  ;  antl  the  summer  tourist,  in  an  idle  mood  regarding  it  lor 
u  jay,  pays  it  is  naught."     (Waunkus  Badr/trk.) 

St.  John  aspires  to  he  tho  winter-port  of  tlie  Dominion,  and  the  Intei'co-  j 
ionial,  Canadian  Pacilie,  and  Grand  Trnnk  lines  are  arranging  great  ter- 
minal facilities  here.     Halifax  is  an  energetic  rival,  although  much  farther 
from  the  Upper  Provinces. 


ST.   JOHN. 


Hnnie  1.       21 


t      lia  Tr.ur  vnww  buck 

lilnw  ot  t.h«  onii(j»U'r<"- 
in   Acatliii,  luxl  Ixiill  Ti  J 
«>rn'i  soiiH,  all  of  whom 

tr,  iM'twccn  tho  Kn'ticli  ^ 
'nil  till'  li.'irlitir  limriii'^' 

Alter  a  H«>v«'n>  oaiiimii- 
Hcciidcil  »Ih>  rlvor  witli  >| 
<SH,     In  ItllH).  whlU'  tli(> 

.lolin  iind  hurlctl  <li'- 
nt  tlin'i>  nn'ti-of-war  tu 
'li<\v  wt'toKr.on  att.M<  kcil 
(^tnncc.  Hnt  tli«  Am/- 
i/();»f/,  and  soon  lay  dis- 
iciU-an    v«'ss('ls   csraiMMl 

«l't«>r\vards  ovrrhanicil 
<t.  .lohn,  and  riipturiMl 
on  bonrd     In  ITUl  llu' 

it  WJiM  ndmllt,  and  hml 

luirlior  and  drove  awiiy 

'hv  frijratcs  llounil  and 

vcn'  ordt<r<'d  out  of  tlic 

four  llritish  war-vesnls 

i>  fort,  bh'w  up  Mic  iiiHU- 

iiur  wa.><  ftill  narrisoiu  i| 

.nu'rioan  ton*',  tin'  ii«i>t 

»•  w«.x  visited  l)y  .lanits 

'r,  soon  driven  away  1  y 

>  returned  with  a  partv 

of  the  city,  rrectinj?  (!<' 

IIowo      In  1775  a  navtil 

and  destroy  «'d  the  oM 

nn  their  work  hy  iihm- 

lish  lleet  anived  m  tlic 

alists,"  AniericanH  wlin 

lin  in  the  new  Ueiiul)lio 

owth  i»f  the  city  of  St.    J 

Irate  Province  tho  next 

livened   here.      In  17^' 

tahlished  on  PartridK*' 

|7  one  third  of  the  coin- 

1.1 250,01)0.     During  tlic 

Itizens  were  all  enrolltd 

]ni  the  borders.     Larp' 

war,  when  the  liritisli 

firts  f<tr  its  supjily,  w.is 

rovinces.     The  last  his- 

IStU.  hy  several  of  flic 

the  drenadier  (Snanls 

il  solution  of  the  Ti>ni  J 

ha.«  t*inco  been  left  to 

Is  of  history  and  trail!- 
tid  throniih  the  settlo- 
Icharniinjj  society  ami 
I  mood  regarding  it  for 

)n,  and  the  Interco- 
irrangitig  preat  tor- 
Ihough  much  farther 


gt-  John. 

"Totho  wliulii  jflvoonr  bnniipri  | 

Hcnr  lidinewitnl  iiKiiin!  ' 
Cried  the  Lord  iif  Aeiidiii. 

Crlfd  CliiirIrM  «if  liwlicniin  ; 
From  tlie  prow  of  IiIh  nliiillop 

lie  \in/v{\,  iiH  111"  Nini, 
From  ltd  lic'il  in  tlic  occMn, 

Htreiimcd  tip  the  .St.  .loliii. 

Oer  the  biiio  wcntern  wiitero 

'I'lmt  Hhiilloii  hiid  piiHteil, 
Where  tlie  mutfl  of  I'liioliHCot 

<'IuiiK  (liiinp  on  her  miiHt. 
St.  Savior  liiid  looked 

On  the  litTftie  huiI, 
An  the  Romf"  '••'  the  Huguenot 

Itimc  on  the  gule. 

The  pnle.KlioKtlv  fntherH 

lUnienihcred  her  well, 
Ami  hinl  cursed  her  while  pooding, 

With  taper  nnd  l-cll, 
But  (lie  men  of  Monhegnn, 

Of  I'liplMtH  uhborii'd, 
Iliid  welcomed  iind  fett(it«U 

The  heretic  Lord. 

They  had  londed  liift  Hhnllop 

With  dini-iish  iiiid  hull, 
With  HtorcH  for  lii«  liirder, 

And  steel  for  his  wiill. 
Penie(iiiid,  from  lur  biiHtioiis 

And  turrets  of  stone, 
Had  welcenu'd  liis  coming 

Willi  hiuiner  iind  jfiin- 

And  the  prayers  of  the  eldern 

Iliid  followed  his  wuv, 
Ah  homeward  he  glided 

Down  Pentecost  May. 
O,  well  sped  Lii  Tour  ! 

For,  in  iieril  and  puin, 
IliH  lady  kept  wntch 

For  hiH  coming  again. 

O'er  the  Isle  of  the  Pheiisnnt 

The  niorning  Biin  Hhoiie, 
On  tlie  plane-trees  which  Hlmded 

Tlje  shores  of  St.  .loliii. 
"Now  why  from  von  Imttleincnts 

Speiks  not  my  fovc? 
Why  waves  there  no  banner 

My  fortress  above?" 

Dark  and  wild,  from  liis  deck 

St.  Kstieiinc  gazed  about, 
On  fire-wasted  dwellings, 

And  silent  redoubt ; 
From  the  low  shattered  walls 

Which  the  flame  had  o'crrun. 
There  floated  no  lianner, 

There  thundered  no  gun. 

But  beneath  the  low  arch 

Of  its  doorway  there  stood 
A  pale  priept  of  Rome, 

In  liis  clouk  and  his  hood. 
With  the  bound  of  a  lion 

La  Tour  sprang  to  liiiid, 
On  the  throat  of  the  Papist 

lie  fustcned  his  liand. 

•'  Speak,  son  of  the  Woman 

Of  scarlet  and  sin  I 
What  wolf  has  been  prowling 

My  castle  within  ?  ' 
From  the  grasp  of  the  soldier 

The  Jesuit  broke, 
Half  in  scorn,  half  in  sorrow, 

He  imlled  us  he  ipoke : 


1617. 

'•No  wolf,  Lord  of  Fstlennf, 

lias  riiviigcd  tliv  hull, 
Uiitthv  ri'd-liandcd  rival, 

Witli  lire,  Ktci'l.  iiiid  balU 
On  Mil  trraiifl  of  mercy 

I  liltliiTWiird  Clime, 
While  I  lie  walls  of  thv  cnstlo 

Yet  spoiiteil  with  llame. 

"  I'eiitagocts  iliirk  vesseln 

Were  moored  in  the  bay, 
(trim  Nell  lions,  roaring 

Aloml  for  their  prey  t" 
"  lint  what  of  my  ladv?" 

Cried  Charles  of  Kslienne. 
"On  the  shot-crumbled  turret 

Thy  lady  was  seen  : 

"  Half  veilerl  In  the  smoke-cloud, 

ller  hand  Knisped  thy  peiin«>n, 
Wliile  her  d;irk  tresses  swayed 

In  the  hot  breath  of  cannon  1 
lint  wo(;  to  the  heretic, 

livermore  woe ! 
When  the  son  of  the  church 

And  the  (tross  is  his  foet 

"In  the  track  of  the  shell, 

In  the  path  oftlK!  ball, 
Pentugoet  swept  over 

The  breach  of  the  wall! 
K.'eel  to  steel,  gun  to  giin, 

One  moment,  —  and  then 
Alone  storxl  the  victor. 

Alone  with  his  men  I 

"  Of  its  sturdy  defenders, 

'I'liy  l.idy  nionc 
Saw  the  crosH-bhizoned  bonnet' 

Float  over  St.  .lolui." 
"  Let  the  dastard  look  to  it  I" 

Cried  fiery  Kstieniie, 
"Were  I>  Anlnuy  King  Louis, 

I  d  free  her  again  I" 

"  Alas  for  thy  lady  ! 

No  hervi(;(!  from  thee 
Is  needed  by  her 

Whom  the  Lord  bath  set  free ; 
Nine  days,  in  stern  silence, 

Iler  thruldom  she  bore. 
But  the  tenth  morning  came. 

And  Death  opened  her  do<jr  I  " 

As  if  suddenly  smitten, 

La  'Pour  staggered  back  ; 
His  hand  grasped  his  sword-hilt. 

His  forcheaa  grew  black. 
He  sprang  on  the  deck 

Of  his  sliallop  ueain. 
"We  cruise  now  for  ^■engcttnce  I 

Give  way  I  "  cried  Estienne. 

"  Massachusetts  shall  hear 

Of  tne  Huguenots  wrong. 
And  from  island  and  creekside 

iler  fishers  shall  throng! 
Pentagoet  shall  rue 

What  bis  Papists  have  done, 
When  his  palisades  echo 

The  Puritans  gun  ! " 

O.  the  loveliest  of  heavens 

Hung  tenderly  oer  bim, 
There  were  waves  in  the  sunshine. 

And  green  isles  before  him  : 
But  a  pale  hand  was  beckoning 

The  Huguenot  on  : 
And  in  blackness  and  ashes 

Behind  wos  St.  John  ; 

John  O.  Whittier. 


i 


22       n&ute  2.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.   JOHN. 

2.   The  Environs  of  St.  John. 

*  Lily  Lake  is  about  1  M.  from  Kins:  Squure,  and  is  reached  by  cross- 
ing: the  Valley  and  ascendinp:  Mount  Pleasant.  The  road  winch  turns  to 
the  ri^ht  froni  Owens  Art  School  conducts  past  several  villas  and  rural 
estates.  From  its  end  a  broad  path  diverges  to  the  r.,  leading  in  a  few 
minutes  to  the  lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  surrounded  by  high  rocky 
banks.  The  environs  are  thickly  studded  with  chimps  of  ai'oor-vitae  and 
evergreens,  among  which  run  devious  rambles  and  pathways.  No  houses 
or  other  signs  of  civilization  are  seen  on  the  shores,  and  the  citizens  wish 
to  preserve  this  district  in  its  primitive  beauty  by  converting  it  into  a  pub- 
lic park.  The  water  is  of  rare  purity,  and  was  used  for  several  years  to 
supply  the  city,  being  pumped  up  by  expensive  machinery.  This  is  a 
favorite  place  for  skating  early  in  the  season,  and  at  that  time  presents  a 
scene  of  great  activity  and  interest.  A  pleasant  pathway  leads  on  one 
side  to  the  Lily  Lake  Falls,  which  arc  attractive  in  time  of  high  water. 

The  Marsh  Boad  is  the  favorite  drive  for  the  citizens  of  St.  John,  and 
presents  a  busy  scene  on  pleasant  Sundays  and  during  the  season  of  sleigh- 
ing. It  is  broad,  firm,  and  level,  and  follows  the  (supposed)  ancient  bed 
of  the  St.  John  River.  At  1^  M.  from  the  city  the  Rural  Cemetery  is 
reached  (only  lot-owners  are  admitted  on  Sunday).  This  is  a  pleasant 
ground  occupying  about  12  acres  along  a  cluster  of  high,  rocky  knolls, 
nnd  its  roads  curve  gi'acefully  through  an  almost  unbroken  forest  of  old 
(but  small)  evergreen  trees.  The  chief  point  of  interest  is  along  Ocean 
Avenue,  where  beneath  uniform  monuments  are  buried  a  large  number 
of  sailors.  1^  M.  beyond  the  Cemetery  the  Marsh  Road  passes  the  Three- 
Mile  House  and  Moosepath  Park,  a  half-mile  course  which  is  much  used 
for  horse-racing,  especially  during  the  month  of  August.  3  -  4  M.  farther 
on  (with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  always  near  at  hand)  the  road  reaches 
the  Torryburn  House,  near  the  usual  course  for  boat-racing  on  the  broad 
Kennebecasis  Bay.  The  course  of  this  estuary  is  now  followed  for  2  M., 
with  the  high  cliff  called  the  Minister's  Face  on  the  farther  shore.  Pass- 
ing several  country-seats,  the  tourist  arrives  at  Bothesay,  prettily  situated 
on  the  Kennebecasis.  This  village  is  a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence 
for  families  from  the  city,  and  has  numerous  villas  and  picnic  grounds. 
The  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are  good.  Near  the  railway  station 
is  Rothesay  Hall,  a  summer  hotel,  accommodating  30-40  guests  ($8-10 
a  week).  There  are  pleasant  views  from  this  point,  including  the  broad 
and  lake-like  Kennebecasis  for  many  miles,  the  palisades  of  the  Minister's 
Face,  and  the  hamlet  of  Moss  Glen. 

Loch  Lomond  is  abput  U  M.  N.  E.  of  St.  John,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  its  citizens.  Many  people  go  out  to  the  lake  on  Saturday  and  remain 
there  until  Monday  morning.  The  road  crosses  the  Marsh  Bridge  and 
passes  near  the  Silver  Fall^,  a  pretty  cascade  on  Little  River  (whence  the 

•J 


THE  ENVIRONS  OP  ST.   JOHN.     Route  2.       23 


[city  draws  its  water  supply).  There  are  two  small  hotels  near  Loch 
Lomond,  of  which  Bunker's  is  at  the  lower  end  and  Dtilzell's  is  3-4  M.  be- 
yond, or  near  the  head  of  tlie  First  Lake.  These  waters  are  nmch  re- 
sorted to  by  trout-fishers,  and  the  white  trout  that  are  found  near  Dalzell's 
Lake  House  are  considered  a  delicacy.  Boats  and  tackle  are  furnished 
[at  the  hotels;  and  there  is  good  shooting  in  the  vicinity.  The  shores  con- 
[fist,  for  the  most  part,  of  low  rolling  hills,  covered  with  forests.  The  First, 
^ake  is  4  X  ^  M.  in  area,  and  is  connected  by  a  short  stream  with  the 
second  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M.  long,  and  very  narrow.  The  Third 
iLake  is  smaller  than  either  of  the  others. 

An  elevated  ridge  of  hard-wood  laud,  over  which  the  road  pa-sses  near  the  nar- 
Erowest  part,  afforded  me  from  its  summit  a  view  of  tin-  lower  lake,  which  would  not 
nuffer  in  comparison  with  many  eitlier  of  our  Etif^lish  or  our  Scottish  lakes.  Its 
■surface  was  calm  end  still ;  beyond  it  rose  a  wooded  ridj^e  of  rounded  hills,  purpled 
[by  the  broad-leaved  trees  which  covered  them,  and  terminated  at  the  foot  of  the 
[lake  by  a  lofty,  so-called  Lion's  Back,  h-wer  considerably  than  Arthur's  Seat,  yet 
[Still  a  miniature  Ben  Lomond."  —  Prof.  .Tohnstox. 

Ben  Lomond,  .Tones,  Taj  lor's,  and  other  so-called  lakes  (being  large  forest-ponds) 
[are  situated  in  this  neighborhood,  and  afford  better  fishing  facilities  than  themuch- 
jvisited  waters  of  Loch  Lomond.  Both  wliit*and  speckled  trout  are  caught  in  great 
[numbers  from  rafts  or  floats  on  these  ponds;  and  Bunker's  or  Dalzell's  affords  a 
[favorable  headquarters  for  the  sportsman,  where  also  more  particular  information 
[may  be  obtained. 

The  Penitentiary  is  a  granite  building  120  ft.  long,  situated  in  an  in- 
[•walled  tract  of  18  acres,  on  the  farther  side  of  Courtenay  Bay.  The  Poor 
\lIouse  is  a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  same  neighborhood.  The  road 
(that  passes  these  institutions  is  prolonged  as  far  as  Mispeck,  traversing  a 
[diversified  country,  and  at  times  allbrding  pretty  views  of  the  Bay  of 
[Fundy.     Mispeck  is  a  small  marine  hamlet,  10  M.  from  St.  John. 

There  is  an  excellent  drive,  over  a  good  highway,  from  St.  John  to  the 
[pleasant  scenery  of  the  Kennebecasis,  by  the  Sand-Point  road. 

The  *  Suspension  Bridge  is  about  li  M.  from  King  Scjuare,  and  the 

[distance  may  be  traversed  by  onmibuses  (or  in  part  by  horse-cars)  passing 

[through   the    North    End    and     under  Fort-Howe  Hill  (whence  a  good 

[view  of  the  city  is  afforded).     The  bridge  crosses  the  rock}'  gorge  into 

[which  the  wide  waters  of  the  St.  John  River  are  compressed,  at  a  height 
[of  nearly  100  ft.  above  low  water.  The  rush  of  the  upward  tide,  and  the 
[falls  whiili  become  visible  at  low  tide,  fill  the  stream  with  seething  eddies 
land  whirls,  and  render  navigation  impossible.  At  a  certain  stage  of  the 
flood -tide,  and  (or  a  few  minutes  only,  this  gorge  may  be  passed  by  vessels 
aiul  rafts.  A  S'plendid  steel  cantilever  railway  bridge  spans  the  river 
[immediately  above  the  Suspension  Bridge. 

The  St.  John  River  is  over  450  M.  long,  and,  with  its  many  tributaries,  drains  a 
[vast  extent  of  country.  Yet,  at  this  point,  where  its  waters  are  emptied  into  the 
'harbor,  the  outlet  of  the  river  is  narrowed  to  a  channel  which  is  in  places  but  460 
j  ft.  wide,  with  elilfs  of  limestone  100  ft.  liigli  lieinming  it  in  on  cither  .side.  The  stream 
{rushes  through  this  narrow  i)ass  with  great  impetuosity,  and  its  course  is  further 
I  disturbed  by  several  rocky  islets.    The  tides  iu  the  harbor  rise  to  a  height  of  22  -26 


i 


II 


l» 


|i 


24       Rmite  2.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.   JOHN. 

ft.,  and  rush  up  the  river  with  such  force  as  to  overflow  the  fal'-:  and  produce  level 
water  at  flood-tide.  The  bridge  was  built  in  18o2  by  an  Anieric-iiii  engineer,  and  cost 
S8(>,0{K).  It  is  iy¥)  ft.  long  and  contains  670  M.  of  wire,  supported  ou  4  slender  but 
solid  towers. 

Over  the  head  of  tlie  bri<I<r:e,  on  tlie  Ciirieton  sliove.  Is  tlie  Pronncinl 
Lunatic  Asylum,  an  extensive  brick  builtlinijf  with  lonjj  wings,  situated  in 
pleasant  grounds.  Its  elevated  situation  renders  it  a  prominent  object  in 
approaching  the  city  from  almost  any  direction.  The  building  was  erected 
in  1848,  and  accommodates  400  patients.  From  this  vicinity,  or  from  the 
bridge,  are  seen  the  busy  manufacturing  villages  about  Indiantown  and 
Point  Pleasant,  most  of  which  are  engaged  in  the  lumber  business. 

On  the  summit  of  the  highest  hill  in  Carleton  is  a  venerable  and  pic- 
turesque stone  tower,  jvhich  gives  an  antique  and  feudal  air  to  the  land- 
scape. It  is  known  as  the  Rlartello  Tower,  and  was  built  for  a  harbor- 
defence  at  the  time  when  this  peculiar  kind  of  fortification  was  favored 
by  the  British  War  Office.  Many  of  these  works  may  be  seen  along  the 
shores  of  the  British  Isles,  but  they  are  now  used  (if  used  at  all)  only  as 
coast-guard  stations.  The  tower  ifi  Carleton  is  under  the  charge  of  a  sub- 
officer,  and  near  by  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  hill-baltery,  with  a  few  nld 
guns  still  in  position.  The  *vievv  from  this  point  is  broad  and  beautiful, 
including  St.  John,  with  the  spires  of  Trinity  and  the  Cathedral  most 
prominent,  Portland  and  the  Fort  Howe  Hill,  the  wharves  of  Carleton  and  its 
pretty  churches,  the  harbor  and  sliip[)ing,  the  broad  Bay  of  Fundy,  ex- 
tending to  the  horizon,  and  in  the  S.  the  blue  shores  of  Nova  Scotia  (the 
North  Mt.),  with  tne  deej)  gap  at  the  entrance  to  the  Annapolis  Basin, 
called  the  Digby  Gut. 

The  streets  of  Carleton  are  as  yet  in  a  transition  state,  and  do  not  invite 
a  long  sojourn.  On  the  hill  near  the  ^lartello  'i'ower  is  the  tall  and  grace- 
ful Clnirch  of  (he  Assumption,  with  pleasant  grounds,  in  which  is  the 
fine  building  of  the  presbytery.  Below  this  point  is  the  Convent  of  St. 
Vincent,  S.  of  which  is  seen  the  spire  of  St.  Jude's  Episcopal  Church. 

The  Fern  Ledges  are  about  1  M.  from  Carleton,  on  the  shore,  and  are  mucli 
visited  by  geologists.  They  consist  of  an  erratic  fragment  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone 
epoch,  and  are  covered  with  sea-weed  and  limpets.  On  clearing  away  the  weeds  ami 
breaking  the  rock,  the  most  beautiful  impressions  of  ferns  and  other  cryptogau:ou> 
plants  are  found. 

The  Mahogany  1  Soad  affords  u  fine  drive  along  the  Bay  shore,  with  n 
succession  of  broad  marine  views.  It  is  gained  by  crossing  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  and  passing  the  Insane  Asylum.  About  4  M.  from  the  city  i^ 
the  Four-Mile  House,  a  favorite  objective  point  for  drives.  The  road  is 
often  followed  as  far  as  Spruce  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water  6  M.  long,  anil 
situated  about  7  M.  from  St.  John.  Perch  are  found  here  in  great  num- 
bers, but  the  facilities  for  fishing  are  not  good.  The  water  supply  of  the 
suburb  of  Carleton  is  drawn  from  this  lake. 

^  Mahogany,  a  popular  adaptation  of  the  Indian  word  ilanawagonish,  applied  to  the 
neighboring  bay. 


CAMPOBELLO. 


Route  3.      25 


wagonish,  applied  to  tlie 


St.  John  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen.  —  Fassamaquoddy 

Bay.     (Srcpn!/r?,OI>.} 

The  commodious  vessels  of  the  Internationul  Steaiuship  ('unipiiny  leave  thoReed'fl 
*oiiit  WljJirf,  at  .^t.  John,  every  Monday,  Weduehday,  and  Friday,  at 7.2;' A.M.,  and 
eafli  Eastport  (ti  I  M.  di-tant)  before  noon.     A  conneetifin  ivS  made  th<  n;  witli 

smaller  steamboat,  wUiili  a.^cends  l*as.<uuiaquoddy  Uay  and  the  St.  Croix  Iliver  to 
ft.  Andrews  and  .St   .Stephen. 

The  Shore  Line  Railway  runs  from  St.  John  to  St.  Stoplion,  82  miles 
'.,  and  it  is  lioped  tliat  it  may  be  extended  do\v'n  through  Maine  to  IJaa- 
)r,  cntssing  th>-  frontier  at  Calais,  and  ninninj^  around  Ihroiiuli  the  coast 
)unties.  It  is  not  yet  ])erfect  in  route  and  ejjnipment,  and  is  content  with 
mning  in  a  very  leisurely  way  down  this  pictiir('.s(|ue  and  thinly  settled 
)ast.  The  loealitie.s  which  it  appr  aches  are  more  particularly  described 
\n  pages  31,  '62,  '6'i,  34,  and  35  of  this  book. 

Stations.  —  St    John   to  Spruce  Lake,  7  M   ;    Musquash,  f);   Laneaster,  16; 
?preaux.  24;  New  River,  2'J :  Pennlield,  33;  ^^t.  tieorge,  47;  Bouny   River,  58; 
Oyer's,  62  ;  Oak  Bay,  07  ;  St.  Stephen,  82. 

I  After  leavicg  St.  John,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
id  .soon  passes  Split  Rock,  and  stretches  across  to  Point  Lcpreau.  The 
jculiarities  of  the  coast,  which  is  always  visible  (in  clear  weathor)  on  the 
.,  are  spoken  of  in  Route  o,  and  are  thus  epitomized  by  Mr.  Warner  : 
:Ai)rettybay  now  and  then,  a  rocky  cove  with  scant  folia_e:e,  a  light- 
louse,  a  rude  cabin,  a  level  land,  monotonous  and  without  noble  forests, — 
lis  was  New  Brunswick  as  we  coasted  along  it  under  the  most  favorable 
ircumstances." 

After  passing  the  iron-bouod  islets  called  the  Wolves  (where  the  Neto 
tiKjlnnd  was  wrecked  in  1872),  the  steamer  runs  in  towards  the  West 
sles,  who.se  knob-like  hills  rise  boldly  from  the  blue  waters.  Sometimes 
le  meets,  in  these  outer  passages,  great  fleets  of  fishing-boats,  either 
Irifting  over  schools  of  fish,  or,  with  their  white  and  red  sails  stretched, 
(ursuing  their  prey.  If  sucli  a  meeting  occurs  during  one  of  the  heavy 
)gs  which  so  often  visit  this  coast,  a  wonderfully  weird  eflcct  is  caused 
the  sudden  emergence  and  disappearance  of  the  boats  in  the  dense 
rhite  clouds 

Soon  after  passing  the  White  HcTrse  islet,  thi-  steamer  enters  the  Ea.stem 
fassage,  and  runs  to  the  S.  W.  into  Friar's  Road.  On  the  r.  is  Deer 
sle,  a  rugged  island,  7  M.  long  by  3  M.  wide,  with  a  i)oor  .soil  and  no 
3od  harbors.  There  are  about  1,(500  inhabitants  on  this  island,  and  it  is 
irrounded  by  an  archipelago  of  isolated  rocky  peaks.  The  .«;hores  attain 
elevation  of  300  ft.,  and  from  some  of  the  higher  hills  are  gained  beau- 
Iful  panoramic  views  of  the  Fassamaquoddy  Bay,  on  one  side,  and  the 
lay  of  Fundy,  on  the  other. 
2 


■fi 


i  i  n 


1      I  :i 


I      I 


26     Routf  S. 


EASTPORT. 


On  the  other  side  are  tlic  grandly  picturosciuo  hcndlundsof  Cainpobcllo, 
the  island  which  lias  recently  become  so  well  knowi)  as  an  American  Hum- 
mer-resort,  parliciilarly  affected  by  the  best  people  of  IJoston  and  (Cam- 
bridge. A  more  thorough  account  of  this  locality  is  found  on  page  30  a, 
hereinafter. 


The  earliest  sottlonu'nt  on  tlie  Bny  wa.^  pstnMishnl  nlmut  1770,  hy  the  Cnmpo- 
bello  (.'oil  puny,  ami  was  I()(>at(  il  at  Ilarliordt'  liUl«>,  nn  (.'mii|i(i1:«  ilo  It-luti*!  It  wax 
nuDU'd  Wnriinptoii,  Imt  tlio  WfUhjiool  M'ttU'iiu'iit  has  Uul^r  Kincc  KurjiasMMl  it.  Tlu> 
irilund  was  lor  Komc  tiiiu-  tlio  proprrty  of  (lajit.  Owni,  of  tlu'  UomiI  Ni!V.\,  to  whom 
the  residents  paid  toiiant^' «lucs.  At  ccrtaiii  sta>;t's  of  tiio  tide,  Ku.'(  port  ran  only 
ho  approavhed  hy  pahsin^  around  Canipohollo,  concern iiijf  whwh  Mr.  U'arnir  lu- 
dulgos  ill  tlic  following  pleasantry  :  "  The  po.s.session  hy  tlie  Ilrilish  of  (he  i.-land  of 
(jumpohello  is  an  insutrerahle  nienaee  and  iniiKrtinence.  1  writ*'  with  a  full  knowl- 
edge of  what  war  i,-^.  We  ought  to  Instantly  di.-lodge  the  llritish  from  ('ani])oliello. 
It  entirely  shuts  up  mid  tonnnands  our  hiM-lior,  —  one  of  our  chief  IOa.'tern  har- 
bors and  war  stations,  where  wo  kwj)  a  Hag  and  cannon  and  some  soldiers,  and 
where  the  customs  oflicers  look  out  for  sninggling  There  is  no  way  to  get  into  (lur 
own  harbor,  except  in  favorable  t  ircnirstanccs  of  the  tide,  withont  lu'gging  the 
courtesy  of  a  passage  through  Ihitifh  wc.ters.  Why  is  England  i»eniiitted  to  ttretch 
along  down  our  coast  in  this  stntggiing  iin.l  iiKiui.^itive  manner?  She  niighl  aInioFt 
as  well  own  Long  Island.  It  wii.s  iiniio,«sili|(>  to  prevent  our  clucks  niar.tling  with 
shame  aa  wc  thought  of  this,  and  saw  ouix  Ives,  free  Anicriciin  ( itiztiis,  landloeked 
by  alien  soil  in  our  own  harbor  \\c  ought  to  liitve  war,  if  wur  i;  rcressiiry  to  pos- 
sess Campobello  and  Deer  Islands,  or  el.M'  we  ought  to  give  the  Krili.h  Euslpurt.  I 
am  not  surt;  but  the  latter  would  be  the  better  course." 


Eastport  {The  (inodhj,  a  new  ;iiidcomfort;i!ile  hotel,  with  ().') chambers) 
is  an  American  bordcT-town  on  the  con«t  of  Maine,  and  has  ;{,7f{8  in 
habitants  and  8  churches.  It  is  built  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  at  the  E. 
end  of  Moose  Island,  in  Passamaqnoddy  Bay,  and  is  engaged  in  the  fish- 
eries and  the  coasting-trade.  Over  the  village  are  the  ramparts  of  Fort 
Sullivan,  a  post  of  the  United  States,  commanding  the  harbor  with  its 
artillery.  Eastport  is  much  visited  in  summer  for  the  sake  of  the  sidt- 
water  fishing  and  the  tmiqnc  marine  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  sev- 
eral reputable  boardinrr-honses.  It  is  ccnmccted  with  the  mainland  by  a 
bridge,  over  which  lies  the  road  to  the  Indinn  village.  Eastport  is  the 
most  convenient  point  from  which  to  reach  Campobello,  Grand  Manan 
(see  Route  4),  and  the  adjacent  ishinds.  A  steam-ferry  runs  hence  in 3  M. 
to  Lubeo  ( Lubec  House,  Cobscook  Hotel),  a  pictures(]ue  marine  village  to- 
wards Quoddy  Head,  with  advantages  for  summer  residents.  This  pleasant 
little  place  is  decaying  slowly,  having  lost  over  400  inhabitants  between 
1860  and  1870.  The  present  population  is  a  little  over  2,000.  Lubec  i>; 
1  M.  farther  E.  than  Eastport,  and  is  therefore  the  easternmost  town  of 
the  United  States.  The  purple  cliffs  of  Grand  Manan  are  seen  from 
Quoddy  Head. 


I  ill 


KASTl'OUT. 


noutc3.       27 


iiulsof  Canipobello, 
s  an  Anioricftii  8um- 
if  Boston  and  (.'am- 
ound  on  pafj^u  30  a, 


t  1770,  by  the  ("nmpo- 

)i(>l)t  ilo  l^lllllll  It  Vinn 
iiicf  mr|iusM'(|  It.  The 
'  Uojiiil  Nnv.v,  t<)  whom 
iidr,  Ka.<-l|K>i't  can  only 
wWu  h  Mr.  Marnir  in- 
ISridKh  of  th«<  i.^lund  of 
rtritr  uilh  a  lull  knowl- 
ritish  friin\  (\ini|)o1)i>llo. 
our  I'hiof  Eustcrii  har- 
uud  Konio  Koldiors,  and 
i  no  way  to  net  into  our 
!,  without  ln'frjring  tlie 
nd  iK'rniittt'd  to^tretcli 
uT  ?  She  nujrlit  alnioFt 
r  cli(tk.>f  n:aiitliup  witlj 
fin  ( itii^cns,  landlocked 
wur  i;  necessary  to  pos- 
■he  I'riti.h  Eastport.     I 


In  1^)84  the  I'asMainaq noddy  island.'*  wen-  granted  hy  ''lo  King  of  France  to  Jean 
Sarreau  de  St  Aiildn.  In  tiu-  Niiinnicr  of  17'*4  the  few  hrencli  HctUern  about  Piuwa- 
n)a<(U(»ddy  Hay  wen"  phindcKvl  by  an  expedition  und«'r(!ol  (Miurch,  ronxiMtinK  of 
<(U<(  Ma.x.-<iichus«"tts  .soldiers,  escorted  i»y  the  nien-of-war  .Arw*/,  4S,  ami  (io.t/iort,  i'J2. 
Tliey  awended  the  St,  i'roix  as  tar  as  the  head  of  navi);ation,  then  returned  and 
ercLHsed  tiie  itay  to  rava>,'e  tin-  Minas  settlements.  Thev  visited  .Moo.m'  Island  and 
tin-  adjacent  main,  and  carried  olfall  the  >ef tiers  as  prisoners.  Kighteen  yearH  later 
a  Boston  ship  was  captured  by  the  Indians  among  thes«'  isliinds*1iiit  was  retaken  by 
it.s  crew  when  a  fair  wind  arose  In  1711  Massac  hu.<etts  declared  war  against  th« 
IndlanH  on   this  bay  ami  on  tlie  St.  .lolin   hiver;  and  in   17tit)  the  tribes  su«-d  for 

Iieace,  seuiling  hostages   to   IJoston.       In    IT^M  <iov.    lieU  her  (of  .Mass  )  visited  the 
);iv,  and  in  17r)(»  and  I7t?2  its  stntres  and  islands  were  regularly  surveyed 
biiring   the  War  of   the  Kevolution  the    I'assamaquoddy    Jndians    were  loyal  to 
I  the  Unit«'(|  States,  and  declined  all  olFers  from  the  Hritish  agents.     The  boumlary 
'  «luestion   began  to  assume  great  importance  after  the  close  of  the  war.     The  treaty 
I  ittipulatcd  that  the  St.  Croix  Kivcr  should  form  the  frontier;  but  .MasHiichusettM, 

supported  by  the  Indians,  claimed  that  the  .Magaguadavic  was  the  true  St.  Croix; 
I  while  (In'at  Britain  asserted  and  proved  that  the  outlet  of  the  Scdioodic  iiakoH  was 

the  veritable  river.     The  islands  were  surrenden-d  to  Britain;   but  Moohv,  Dudley, 

and  Frederick  Islands  wen*  restored  to  the  United  States  in  IHIH. 

Eastport  was  founded  about  17H4,  by  fisheruuiu  from  the  coiust  of  K.s«?x  (bounty, 

Ma-is.,  who  settled  here  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  catching  and  curing  fish.     In 

IWtH  the  walls  of  Fort  Sullivan  were  r.iised,  and  a  detachm«'nt  of  troops  was  sta- 
t  tloned  there  In  1813  t\u-  valuable  British  ves.-d,  the  K/iza  Ann,  was  captured  by 
i  the  privateer  Thnolhtj  Pickerim:  and  sent  into  Eastport.  She  wiw  followed  by 
III.  M.  S.  Mfirtin,  whose  connnauder  dcmamled  her  siirrender,  on  pain  of  destroying 
[the  town.     The  citiwns  refused  to  release  the  prize,  and  the  Mfirlin  opened  fire  on 

Eastport,  but  wa.s  soon  driven  away  by  the  guns  of  the  fort,  .luly  11.  1814,  a  Brlt- 
[l.sh  lleet  appeared  off  the  town,  and  intormed  t\w  connnauder  that  if  he  did  not  haul 
[down  his  flag  within  five  minutes  they  would  bombard  the  town      The  flag  came 

down,  the  garrison  laid  down  their  arms,  and  the  hostile  fleet,  headed  by  the  Rami- 
\lifs,  74,  anchored  olf  the  town.  Britis'i  martial  law  was  enforced  here  for  the  next 
[four  years,  after  which  the  place  wa.s  restored  to  the  Uniteil  States. 


t'l,  with  (55fhanil)('rs) 
and  lias  .'{,7;{8  in 
of  a  hil!  at  tlie  E. 
npaffed  in  the  fish- 

le  ramparts  of  Fort 
the  haibor  with  its 
le  sake  of  the  stilt- 
liiity,  iind  has  sev- 
1  the  niainhmd  by  a 

go.     Eastport  is  the 
)ello,  Grand  Mantui  | 

ry  runs  hence  in  3  M. 
0  marine  viUage  to- 
ents.  This  pleasant 
nhabitants  between 
er  2,000.  Lubec  is 
isternmost  town  of  1 
man  are  seen  from  I 


The  river-steamboat,  in  a.^ccndinj;  the  bay,  runs  for  some  distance 
[between  Deer  Isle  and  JNIoose  Island.  At  about  o  M.  froui  Eastport, 
Measaiit  Point  (known  to  the  Indians  as  Si/lxiik)  is  seen  on  the  I.  Here 
jis  the  chief  settlement  of  the  I'assama(]nf)d(ly  Indians,  who  were  driven 
from  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews  nearly  ii  century  ago,  and  received 
[their  present  domain  from  the  AiTierican  govcnnnent.  They  tire  about  400 
[in  number,  and  draw  an  aiuuiity  and  a  school-fund  from  the  Kepublic. 

They  are  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  Openango  tribe  of  the  Etcheniln  nation,  and 
|they  cling  tenaciously  to  the  faith  delivered  unto  them  of  old  by  the  Jesuits.  Their 
Bhurch  ia  dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  and  is  served  by  Indian  deacons ;  and  the  pictu- 
ff.sque  cemetery  is  in  the  same  vicinity.  They  supi)ort  themselves  by  hunting,  Ash- 
ing, and  basket-making,  and  their  favorite  auni.sement  is  dancing,  for  which  they 
"lave  built  a  hall.  There  are  scarcely  any  pure-blooded  Indians  here,  but  the 
iilulteration  has  been  made  with  a  choicer  material  than  among  the  other  tribes, 
lince  the.se  are  mostly  French  half-breeds,  in  distinction  from  the  negro  half-breeds 
)f  the  lower  coa-sts.  Many  years  ago  there  was  a  ( ontrover.sy  about  tlie  chieftaincy, 
In  consequence  of  which  a  portion  of  the  tribe  .seceded,  and  are  nosv  settled  on  the 
'BchooJic  Lakes. 

The  name  Passamaquoddy  is  said  to  be  derived  from   Pesrno-acadie,  "  poUock- 

)lace  "     Others  say  that  Quoddy  means  ''pollock";    but  Father   Vetromile,  the 

scholarly  Jesuit  missionary,  claims  that  the  whole  word  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian 

^Peskmnaquontik,  dGr\v»(\  from  Peskadaminkkanti,  &  term  which  signifies  "it  goes 

ip  into  the  open  field." 


:l 


i  it 


»  1 
r 


28       Route  I 


GRAND   MANAN. 


As  tho  bay  is  entered,  above  Pleasant  Point,  the  West  Isles  are  seen 
opening  on  the  r.,  displaying  a  groat  variety  of  forms  and  combinations. 
On  the  1.  arc  tho  pleasant  sliores  of  Perry,  and  far  across,  to  tho  r.,  are  the 
highlands  about  tbo  Magiigundavic  Kivor.  After  passing  Navy  Island,  the 
boat  rounds  in  at  St.  Amhows. 

St.  Andrews,  tho  St.  ('r<»ix  Kivcr,  and  St.  Stephen,  sec  pages  33-36. 

4.  Grand  Manan. 

This  "paradise  of  olifTs "'  is  situated  off  (^uoddy  II«'nd,  about  7  M.  from  the 
Maine  coast,  and  jx-Ttaius  to  the  I'roviiiee  of  New  lirunswielt.  Jt  is  e;uiiiy  readied 
fVoni  I-iistport  atid  St.  .Tohi  ,  witlj  wliieli  it  lias  a  mail  eommunieation.  The 
sunnier  eliiiiatc  would  be  delicious  were  it  not  for  the  fojjs ;  and  it  Is  ehiinted  that 
invalids  suffering  from  }>;out  and  dyspepsia  .eeeivc  imieh  benefit  here  (very  likely 
from  the  enforeed  abstiiifuee  from  rieli  food).  Tlie  b'ooks  and  the  many  fresh- 
water ponds  alVord  fair  troutinj^  and  bird-sliootiii;^^,  arul  a  few  deer  and  rabbits  are 
found  in  the  woods.  There  are  no  bears  nor  reptiles  on  the  island.  There  is  a 
small  inn  at  (irand  Harbor,  but  the  sojourner  will  prefer  to  }fet  board  in  some  of 
the  private  liouses.  Neat  rooms  and  simple  fare  may  there  be  obt'ained  for  $4-7  a 
week. 

"  As  we  advanced,  IManan  gradually  rose  above  the  waves  and  ehanped  its  aspect, 
tho  flat-topped  purple  wall  '  ling  transmuted  into  brown,  rufrped,  pirpendieular 
cliffs,  crowned  with  dark  fjre<  i  foliage.  Passing,  as  we  diil,  elo.n-  in  by  the  extreme 
northern  point,  we  were  impi-essed  hy  its  beauty  and  grandeur,  which  far  exceeds 
even  that  of  the  elilfs  at  Mount  Desert. 

"  As  a  place  of  summer  resort,  Orand  Manan  is  In  some  respects  unequalled.  At 
certain  aea.>«ons  the  fog  is  abundant,  yet  that  can  be  endured.  Here  the  opportuni- 
ties for  recreation  an;  ui)e,(ualled,  and  all  persons  fond  of  grand  sea-shore  views 
may  indulge  tlieir  ttuste  witlioiit  limit.  The  people  are  invariably  kind  and  trust- 
worthy, and  American  manners  and  customs  prevail  to  sucli  an  extent  that  travel- 
lers at  once  feel  at  home.'     (U.:  Oosr.v.) 

The  island  of  Grand  Manan  is  22  M.  long  and  3-6  M.  ^vide,  and  lies  in 
the  mouth  of  tho  Hay  of  Fundy,  whose  i)o\vorfiil  tides  swoop  impetuously 
by  its  shores.  It  has  about  2,700  inhabitants,  who  dwell  along  the  road 
which  connects  the  liarbors  on  the  K.  shore,  and  arc  famous  for  their  dar- 
ir.g  and  expertness  in  the  lishories.  Thoy  have  10  schools,  8  churches  (5 
Frec-Will  Baptist,  and  2  Church  of  England);  wlnle  the  advantages  of 
free-trade,  insigniticant  taxation,  govornmcnt-built  roads,  and  complete 
self-logislation,  give  reason  for  the  apostrophe,  "  Hajipy  Mananites,  w'lo, 
free  from  grinding  taxation,  now  rove  out  from  rock-bound  cove.s,  and 
quarry  at  will  in  the  silvery  mines  of  the  sea!  "  The  harbors  on  the  E. 
shore  atford  safe  shelter  for  small  vessels,  and  are  connected  with  the 
great  clill's  on  the  \V.  by  narrow  roads  through  the  woods.  The  fisheries 
of  cod,  herring,  and  haddock  are  very  extensive  in  this  vicinity,  and  form 
the  chief  resource  of  the  people,  who  are  distinguished  for  the  quaint  sim- 
plicity which  usmilly  pertains  to  small  ajul  Insulated  maritime  communi- 
ties. Grand  Manan  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite  resort  for  Amer- 
ican marine  painters,  who  find  excellent  studies  in  its  picturesque  clitr:^ 
and  billowy  seas.  It  was  visited  by  (Munnplain  in  1605,  but  was  occupied 
onlv  bv  the  Indians  for  180  vears  after,  (.'ol.  Allan,  the  American  com- 
munder  in  E.  Maine  during  the  Hevolution,  held  the  islaud  with  his  Indiau 


!   \ 


GRAND  MA  NAN. 


Ruute  4.       29 


st  Isles  are  seen 

id  combinations. 

to  the  r.,  are  tlie 

Navy  Island,  the 

10  pages  33-36. 


)Out  7  M.  from  the 
It  is  vnsWy  reached 
iniuunication.  The 
J  it  is  <liiiined  that 
(fit  here  {very  liltely 
ml  the  many  fresli- 
(leer  and  rabhits  are 
island.  There  is  a 
et  l)(iard  in  some  of 
3b Gained  for  $4-7  a 

I  changed  its  aspect, 
ijrjred,  |ur|»«'ndicular 
M-  in  by  tlie  extreme 
r,  wliich  far  exceeds 

ccts  inicqualled.     At 
Here  tlie  opportnni- 
land  sea-sljore  views 
ably  kind  and  trust- 
n  extent  that  travel- 
wide,  and  lies  in 
weep  impetuously 
1  along  the  road 
lous  for  their  dar- 
Is,  8  ehurehes  (5 
Ihe  advautaj^es  of 
ds,  and  complete 
[•  M:\nanites,  who, 
lound  coves,  and 
larbors  on  the  K. 
Innected  with  the 
is.    The  fisheries 
icinity,  and  form 
[n*  the  quaint  siin- 
ritime  coinmuni- 
resort  for  Amer- 
picturesque  clitic 
|but  was  occupied 
American  com- 
id  with  his  Indian 


auxiliaries,  but  it  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain.  After  the  war  it 
was  settled  by  several  Loyalists  from  Massachusetts,  chief  among  whom 
was  Moses  Gcrrish.  A  recent  writer  demands  tiiat  the  island  be  fortified 
and  developed,  claiming  that  its  situation,  either  for  commerce  or  war, 
is  strategically  as  valuable  as  those  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  Guernsey,  and 
Jersey,  and  that  it  would  make  a  fine  [)oint  of  attack  against  Portland 
and  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Grand  Harbor  is  the  chief  of  the  island  handets,  and  is  sitiuvted  on  the 
safe  and  shallow  bay  of  the  same  name.  It  has  iin  Kpiscopal  church  of 
stone  and  two  or  three  stores,  besides  a  small  inn.  Oif  shore  to  the  S.  K. 
lie  Koss,  Cheyne,  and  White  Head  Islands,  on  the  latter  of  which  Audu- 
bon studied  the  habits  of  the  herring-gulls,  in  1833.  To  the  E.  are  the 
rock-bound  shores  of  Nantucket  Island,  and  on  the  S.  are  the  Grand 
Ponds. 

The  South  Shore  is  reached  by  a  good  road  leading  down  from  Grand 
Harbor.  At  5  M.  distance  is  the  narrow  harl>or  of  Seal  Coi'e,  beyond 
which  the  road  lies  nearer  to  the  sea,  afibrding  (ine  marine  views  on  the 
J.,  including  the  Wood  Islands  and  the  Gannet  iJock  Lighthouse,  9- 10 
M.  at  sea.  4  M.  beyond  Seal  Cove  the  road  reaches  Broad  Core,  whence 
a  path  leads  across  the  downs  for  al)o\it  2  M.  to  the  high  and  ocean- 
viewing  clifls  of  S.  W.  Head.  Amf)ng  the  rugged  and  surf-beaten  rocks 
of  this  bold  promontory  is  one  which  is  called  the  Southern  Cross.  About 
the  S.  W.  Head  is  a  favorite  resort  and  breeding-place  of  the  gulls,  whose 
nests  are  made  in  the  grass.  A  forest-path  leads  N.  to  Bradford's  Cove, 
on  the  W.  shore,  a  wide  bight  of  the  sea  in  which  the  ship  Mavourneen 
was  wrecked. 

The  North  Shore.     The  road  from  Grand  Harbor  to  Whale  Cove  is  7-8 
M.  long,  and  is  firm  and  v.ell-made.    14  IM.  N.  of  (jlrand  Harbor,  Wood- 
sward's  C.)ve  is  passed,  with  its  neat  hamlet,  4  M.  beyond  which  is  Flagg's 
Cove.     Spraijiie's  Core  is  a  pretty  fishing-hamlet  on  the  S.  side  of  Swal- 
jlow-Tail  Head,  where  "everything  appears  to  have  been  arranged  for 
[artistic  efiect.    The  old   boats,  the   tund)le-down   storehouses,    the   pic- 
turesque costimies,  the  breaking  surf,  and  all   the  miscellaneous  para- 
jphernalia  of  such  a  jjlace,  set  olV  as  they  }«re  by  the  noble  background 
[of  richly-colored  clitl's,  produce  nn  eO'ect  that  i^  as  rare  as  beautiful." 
VSuudhno-Tail  Head  is  a  fan-shaped  peninsula,  surrounded  by  wave-worn 
[clitl's,  and  swept  by  gales  from  every  quarter.     On  its  outer  jmint  is  a 
[lighthouse  which  holds  a  fixed  light  (visible  fur  17  M  )  148  ft.  above 
Ithe  sea. 

Whah  Cove  is  on  the  N.  E.  shore,  and  is  bordered  by  a  shingle-beach 
)n  which  are  found  bits  of  porphyry,  agate,  jasper,  and  othei-  minerals. 
f'  Here  the  view  is  surprisingly  fine,  the  entire  shore  being  encircle<l  by 
Immense  cliifs  that  rise  up  around  the  border  of  the  blue  waves,  with  a 
richness  of  color  and  stateliness  of  aspect  that  cannot  fail  to  impress  the 


' 


'    ! 


!l 


n 


1     ! 


1 

i    ! 


30      Route  5. 


GRAND    MANAN. 


beholder On  the  E.  side  is  Fish  Head,  and  on  the  W.  Eel  Brook  and 

Northern  Head,  the  latter  extending  out  beyond  its  neighbor,  and  be- 
tween are  the  blue  sky  and  ^vater."  On  the  melancholy  cliffs  at  Eel 
Brook  Cove  the  ship  Lord  Ashburton  was  wrecked,  and  nearly  all  on 
board  were  lost  (21  of  them  are  buried  at  Flagg's  Cove).  Beyond  this 
point,  and  near  the  extreme  northern  cape,  is  tlie  Bishop^s  Head,  so  called 
because  of  a  vague  profile  in  the  face  of  the  cliff". 

The  W.  coast  of  Grind  Manan  is  lined  with  a  succession  of  massive  cliffs, 
which  appear  from  West  Quoddy  like  a  long  and  unbroken  purple  wall. 
These  great  precipices  are  3-400  ft.  high  (attaining  their  greatest  eleva- 
tion at  the  N.  end),  and  form  noble  combinations  of  marine  scenery.  A 
cart-track  leads  across  the  island  from  near  Woodward's  Cove  to  the  ro- 
mantic scenery  about  Dark  Cove  ;  near  which  is  Money  Cove,  so  named 
because  search  has  been  made  there  for  some  of  Capt.  Kidd's  buried 
treasures.  To  the  N.  is  Indian  Beach,  where  several  lodges  of  the  Passa- 
maquoddy  tribe  pass  tiie  summer,  attending  to  the  shore  fishery  of  por- 
poises. Still  farther  N.  are  the  rocky  palisades  and  whirling  currents  of 
Long's  Eddy. 

"  When  the  cliff  is  brought  out  on  snrh  a  stupendons  soale  as  at  Grand  Manan, 
•with  all  the  accessories  of  a  wild  ocean  shore,  the  interest  btronics  absoi'bing.  The 
other  parts  of  the  island  are  of  cour.-e  invested  with  much  interest.  The  lo'"  eastern 
shore,  fringed  with  small  islands  and  rocks,  affords  many  pi(  turesque  sights.  In  a 
pleasant  day  a  walk  southward  has  many  charms.  The  brijiht  sky,  the  shingle 
beach,  the  picturesque  boats,  and  blue  land-locked,  bays  continually  enforce  the 
admiration  of  an  artistic  eye.  and  allure  the  pedestrian  on  piist  cape,  cove,  and 
reach,  until  he  suddenly  finds  that  miles  of  ground  intervene  between  him  and  his 
dinner."    (De  Costa.) 

"Grand  Manan,  a  favorite  summer  haunt  of  the  painter,  is  the  very  throne  of 
the  bold  and  romantic.  The  high  precipitous  slu)res,l)ut  for  the  woods  which  beau- 
tify them,  are  quite  in  the  style  of  L^ibrador."    (L.  L.  Noble  ) 


Charlevoix  speaks  of  an  old-time  wonder  which  seems  to  have  paspcd  away  from 
these  shores  :  "  It  is  even  asserted  that  at  ij  of  a  league  off  Isle  Menane,  which  Fjrves 
as  a  guide  to  vessels  to  enter  St.  .lohn's  River,  there  is  a  rock,  almost  always  cov- 
ered by  the  sea,  which  is  of  lapi>s-lazuli.  It  is  added  that  Commander  de  Razilli 
broke  off  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Deny s,  who  had  seen  it,  sa^s 
that  it  was  valued  at  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 


"  But,  interesting  as  are  all  parts  of  this  picturesque  island,  the  climax  of  solitary 
wildness  and  grandeur  is  to  be  Ibund  only  in  the  'Great  (or  Gull)  Cliffs,'  at  Southern 
Head.  Landing  from  the  Kastport  stenmer,  either  at  Flagg's  or  at  Woodward's  Cove, 
let  us  charter  an  open  vehicle  and  ride  down  the  island.  The  smooth  brown  roatl 
skirts  along  the  E.  shore  for  the  most  part,  showing  us  in  succession  the  haif-dozen 
peaceful  fishing-hamlets  which  contain  its  entire  population,  with  their  seven  neat 
churclies  and  their  remarkably  liandsome  and  coumiodious  schoolhouses.  Afcer  ii 
hrs.  delightful  drive,  we  arrive  at  '  Hdrrey's,'  a  very  small  but  most  home- 
like cottage  inn.  Alighting  here,  let  us  take  the  picturesque  path  that  leads  to 
the  '  Great  (or  Gull)  Cliffs.'  For  tlio  first  ^  M.  the  path  takes  us  across  elevated 
piiflturH-land,  showing  us  th"  open  sen  upon  three  sides.  For  another  quarter  it 
plunges  into  a  dense  forest,  and  pre-Jently  descends  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  which 
it  reaches  at  a  little  stony  level  known  as  '  Southern  Head  beach.'  Crossing  tliis, 
and  skirting  the  S.  W.  coast,  we  soon  commence  rising  with  the  rising  shore,  until 
at  the  end  of  a  short  mile  we  emerge  from  the  shrubbery  to  find  ourselves  on  the 
top  of  ^  Hay  Point,'  gaziug  perpendicularly  down  at  the  sea,  which  dashes,  at  the 


CAMPOBELLO. 


Route  78.      30  a 


N.  Eel  Brook  and 
eighbor,  and  be- 
loly  cliffs  at  Eel 
md  nearly  all  on 
,'e).  Beyond  this 
)'s  Head,  so  called 

n  of  massive  cliffs, 
oken  purple  wall, 
leir  greatest  eieva- 
arine  scenery.     A 
d's  Cove  to  the  ro- 
sy Cove,  so  named 
pt.  Kidd's  buried 
idges  of  the  Passa- 
liore  fishery  of  por- 
hirling  currents  of 

e  as  at  Grand  Manan, 
r>ni«  s  absorbing.  The 
rest.  The  lo""  eastern 
:urcpque  sights.  In  a 
i^iht  sky,  the  shingle 
iitinually  enforce  the 
piist  cape,  cove,  and 
between  him  and  his 

s  the  very  throne  of 
le  woods  which  beau- 


ave  pasFcd  away  from 

Menune,  which  F3rvos 

k.  ahnost  always  cov- 

ommander  de  Razilli 

who  had  seen  it,  sa J  8 


the  climax  of  aolitary 
1)  Cliffs,'  at  Southern 
at  Woodward's  Cove, 
smooth  brown  road 
;e88ion  the  half-dozen 
ith  their  seven  neat 
Jioolhouses.  After  3 
all  but  most  honn- 
path  that  leads  to 
es  us  across  elevated 
r  another  quarter  it 
2  of  the  water,  which 
iuch.'  Crossing  this, 
le  rising  shore,  until 
kid  ourselves  on  the 
which  dashes,  at  the 


6ase  of  th«  cliff  over  which  we  lean,  some  250  feet  below  ?  A  few  rods  further  on, 
knd  we  come  to  the  new  Southern  Head  Lighthouse.  From  hence  for  a  mile  fur- 
Iher  we  pace  along  the  deeply  indented  edge  of  this  dizzy  height,  as  upon  a  lolty 
Bsplnnade,  enjoying  its  solitary  grandeur,  enhanced  by  the  wild  screams  of  hun- 
ireds  of  circling  sea  gulls,  uutil  at  last  we  arrive  opposite  the  •  Old  Maid.'  " 

A  stanch  steamboat  runs  between  Eastport  and  Grand  Manan,  con- 
jcctin'T  with  the  International  steamships  from  Boston  at  Eastport,  and 
brossing  to  the  island  in  2  hrs.  There,  is  a  i^ood  pier  at  Elagg's  Cove 
[North  Head).     Two  small  but  comfortable  hotels  have  been  erected  near 

.  rth  Head  (tbe  Marble-Ridge  House);  and  Grand  Manan  has  latterly 
trown  rapidly  in  public  favor.     A  submarine  cal^ie  runs  hence  to  luistport. 

There  are  5  telegraph-offices  on  the  island.  There  are  also  several  livery 
[tables,  and  good  roads.  Complete  immunity  from  hay-fever  is  enjoyed 
\ere.     Myriads  of  gulls  and  stormy  petrels  breed  on  the  adjacent  islets. 

78.    Campobello. 

Small  steamboats  run  from  Eastport  to  Campobello  hourly. 

The  O^vcn  is  an  a}sthetic  summer-hotel,  composed  of  the  old  Owen  mansion, 

ievoted  to  office,  billiard-room    kitchen,  and  dining-rotmi,  and  the  main  building, 

huge  modern  erection,  containing  parlors  and  chambers,  and  connected  with  the 

Jd  nmnsioii  by  a  long  open  corridor.     The  surrounding  grounds  are  pleasantly  laid 

it,  and  contain  the  old  porter's  lodge,  sun-dial,  Lovers'  Lane,  and  the  Admiral's 

iwthorn  hedges. 

The  Tyn-y-Coedcl  (House  in  the  Wood)  is  another  large       mmer-hotel,  per- 
hining  to  the  Campoltello  Company,  and  devoted  nninly  to  the      commodation  of 
lilies,  being  quieter  and  more  secluded  than  the  Owen. 

Campobello  is  an  island  8  M.  by  3  in  area,  lying  off  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
Lnd  pertaining  to  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  It  has  1,1G()  inhabi- 
mts,  most  of  whom  live  in  two  villages,  —  W(khpo<>l,  on  a  pretty  harboi 
the  N.,  and  WilsoJi's  Beach,  a  populous  fishing-settlement  on  the  S. 
lore,  settled  by  squatters,  in  defiance  of  the  Owens,  who  frequently 
turned  their  houses  nnd  schooners,  but  were  finally  obliged  to  alUnv  them 
stay.  The  fine  old  Owen  roads  across  the  island  have  been  extended 
ky  new  highways  ojiened  by  the  Campobello  Comp my,  and  afford  beauti- 
il  drives  across  the  breezy  uplands,  through  leagues  of  silent  evergreen 
)rests,  and  out  on  sea-beaten  i^romontories.  There  are  a  few  profitable 
irnis  on  the  island,  and  minerals  are  found  in  the  hills  and  glens;  but  the 
lief  source  of  income  is  the  fishing  business. 

The  Episcopal  Church  is  ultra-Anglican,  with  its  vicar  praying 

)r  the  Queen  and  all  the  Royal  Family,  with  the  iistud  English  intonation; 

great  chancel-carpet,  embroidered  by  the  ladies  of  New  Brunswick,  with 

je  three  feathers  of  the  Prince  of  Wales;  and  its  rich  altar-cloths,  pre- 

ented  by  Sister  Portia.  Admiral  Owen's  granddaughter.     The  only  other 

lurch  on  the  island  is  Baptist.     The  chief  local  holidays  are  the  Queen's 

lirtlulay  and  Dominion  Day  (July  1). 

Glen  Severn  (the  ancient  Herrinfj  Cove)  is  a  lovely  cove  on  the  outer 


■iv- 


I 


( 


I  'I 


I  i 


";l 


m 


30  b      Route  78. 


CAMPOBELLO. 


jliore,  with  brill iant-huod  pebbles,  craggy  headlands,  and  a  contiguous 
lake  of  fresh  water.  Frinr's  Head,  within  ]  J  ^I.  of  the  Owen,  is  a  rocky 
pillar  in  the  sea,  off  cliffs  1-4G  ft.  high,  and  badly  battered  by  artillery. 
Eastern  Head,  Harbor  de  Lute,  the  lightlioiises  at  the  ends  of  the  island, 
and  otheT  interesting  points,  are  visited  b}'  sunimer-sojourners.  The  west- 
ern side  of  Canipobello  fronts  on  the  beauties  of  I'assaniaquoddy  Bay, 
around  which  appear  Lubee,  Kastport,  and  other  white  villages,  Avith  the 
purple  hills  of  New  Brunswick  in  the  distance. 

Camp.jD«*llo,  the  ancient  Passamat/uodd t/  fslnvd,  was  granted  by  the  British 
Crown  to  Adiiiiral  William  Fit?,williani  Owen  in  1767.  and  tint  gentleman  and  his 
heirs,  of  a  noble  naval  family,  occupied  the  domain  for  more  than  a  hundred  years. 
The  Admiral  built  a  quarter  deck  over  the  rocks,  on  which  he  used  to  promenade 
in  full  uniform,  lie  was  buried  bv  candle  ligiit,  in  the  churchyard  of  the  little 
Episcop:il  church,  where  his  descend,  ts  have  since  followed  h  i.  There  are  num- 
berless quaint  legends  of  the  old  regime  here  ;  of  Sir  Robert  :  eel's  visit,  and  the 
advent  of  Britisii  frigates;  of  mysterious  wrecks,  pirates,  apparititns,  and  other 
marvels. 

A^ter  Admiral  Owen  died,  the  estate  fell  to  his  son-in-l;iw,  Captain  Kobinson,  of 
the  Royal  Navy,  who  thereupon  assumed  the  Owen  name  and  settled  upon  the  i.sland 
There  was  groat  excitement  here  in  IS'IO,  when  many  armed  Irish  patriots  came  to 
Eastport.  apparently  with  a  design  of  invading  Campoliello  and  twisting  the  tail  of 
the  British  lion.  The  island  was  nearly  deserted  by  its  inhabitant^! ;  British  frig- 
ates and  American  cutfcu'S  cruised  in  the  adjicent  waters;  St.  Andrews  and  St. 
Stephen  were  garrisoncnl  by  British  troops;  and  General  Meade  occupied  Eastport 
witli  a  (ictachmcnt  of  United  States  rejrulars.  The  list  of  t!ie  Owens  moved  to  Eng- 
land, lirid  of  tl  e,  monotonous  life  of  the  old  manor-house,  and  in  1880  Campobelln 
was  purchased  by  a  syndi<'ate  of  Boston  and  New  York  capi'^alists,  to  be  made  into  a 
summer-resort.  Besides  the  gre;it  hotels,  many  summer-cottages  and  villas  are  being 
erected  here  by  well-known  families  from  Boston,  Cambridge,  and  other  cities. 

The  new  development  of  this  remote  island  as  a  smnmer-resort  has  been' 
rapid  and  secure,  and  already  Camiobello  bids  fair  to  become  a  formidable 
rival  of  Mount  Desert,  in  a  fashionable  point  of  view,  although  its  scenery  i 
is  in  almost  o.very  way  inferior.  The  novel  and  original  architecture  and 
equipments  of  the  great  hotels,  and  the  attractiveness  of  their  grounds  and 
surroundings  combine  with  the  insular  and  provincial  (juaintnesses  of  tlic 
islanders  to  make  a  sojourn  here  very  interesting. 

The  Tyn-y-Mais  ("  House  in  the  Field")  is  the  latest  built  of  the  groat 
hotels  of  Canipobello. 

6.    St.  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen.  —  Passama- 

quoddy  Bay. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  Reed's  Point  Wharf  every  Thursday  and  Saturday,  at  ^ 
A.  W  ,  and  reaches  St.  Stephen  before  dark      She  returns  from  St.  Stephen  ev<  n 
Monday  and  Kriduy  morning.     Fares,  St.  .John  to  St.  George,  $1.76,  to  St.  An- 
drews,')?? 1.50  ;  to  St.  Stephen,  $  176.     This  is  not  u  permanent  route,  and  is  lialilej 
to  change  or  discontinuance.  j 

liiil    tiidns  from  St.  .John,  Fredericton,  and  all  points  east,  west,  and  north  uj 
St.  Audrew»-»fid  St.  Stephen. 


BAY  OF  FUNDY. 


lioute  5.       31 


test  built  of  the  groat 


phen.  —  Passama- 


cast,  west,  and  north  u 


[Afler  leaving  the  harbor  of  St.  John  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  by  W.  9^ 
.,  passing  the  openings  of  Manawagonish  Bay  and  Pisarinco  Cove.    The 

iurso  is  laid  well  out  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  which  '*  wears  a  beautiful 
)ect  in  fine  summer  weather,  —  a  soft  chalky  hue  quite  different  from 

[e  stern  blue  of  the  sea  on  the  Atlantic  shores,  and  somewhat  approach- 
the  summer  tints  of  the  channel  on  the  coast  of  England."     Beyond 

|e  point  of  Split  Rock,  Musquash  I/arbo)'  is  seen  opening  to  the  N.  It  is 
safe  and  beautiful  haven,  2  M.  long  and  very  deep,  at  whose  head  is  the 
jttv  Episcopal  village  of  Musquash  (Musquash  Hotel),  with  several  lum- 

Ir-mills.  About  two  centuries  ago  a  French  war-vessel  was  driven  into 
is  harbor  and  destroyed  by  a  British  cruiser.  From  Split  Rock  the 
irse  is  W.  ^  S.  for  11^  M.  to  Point  Lepreau,  passing  the  openings  of 
lance  Harbor  and  Dipper  Harbor,  in  which  are  obscure  marine  hamlets, 
[the  latter,  many  years  ago,  the  frigate  Plumper  was  wrecked,  with  a 
fge  amount  of  specie  on  board.  The  harbor  is  now  visited  mostly  by 
)ster-fishers.  Point  Lepreau  is  a  bold  and  tide-swept  promontory,  on 
lich  are  two  fixed  lights,  visible  for  18  and  20  M.  at  sea. 

Phe  traveller  will  doubtless  be  amazed  at  the  rudeness  and  sterility  of  these  flrowo- 
shores.  "  Two  very  different  impressions  in  regard  to  the  Province  of  New 
inswick  will  be  produced  on  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  according  as  he  contents 
iself  with  visiting  the  towns  and  inspecting  the  lands  which  lie  along  ihe  sea- 
ird,  or  ascends  its  rivers,  or  penetrates  by  its  numerous  roads  into  the  interior  of 
[more  central  iind  northern  counties.  In  the  former  case  he  will  feel  like  the 
Iveller  who  entt^rs  Sweden  by  the  harbors  of  Stockholm  and  Qottenburg,  or  who 
^s  among  the  rocks  on  tlie  western  coast  of  Norway.  The  naked  cliffs  or  shelving 
»res  of  granite  or  other  hardened  roclis,  and  the  unvarying  pine  forests,  awaken 
'lis  mind  ideas  of  liopeless  desolation,  and  puverty  and  barreimess  appear  neces- 

ily  to  dwell  within  the  iron-bound  shores But  on  the  other  hand,  if  the 

inger  penetrate  beyond  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the  Province  and  travel  through 
int<!rior,  h(!  will  be  struck  by  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  rivers,  by  the  fertility 
Its  river  islands  and  intervales,  and  by  the  great  extent  and  excellent  conditioa 
Its  roads."    {Prop.  J.  F.  \\.  Johnston,  F.  R.  S.) 

i'rom  Point  Lepreau  the  course  is  laid  nearly  VV.  for  16.^  M.  to  Bliss 

md,  crossing  the  bight  of  Mace's  Bay,  a  wide  and  shallow  estuary  in 
lich  are  two  fishing-hamlets.  The  Saturday  steamer  stops  on  this  reacli 
^Beaver  Harbor^  a  place  of  150  inhabitants.     S.  of  this  harbor,  and  seen 

the  1.  of  the  course,  are  the  five  black  and  dangerous  islets  called  the 
lolves.  much  dreaded  by  navigators.  A  vessel  of  the  International  Steam- 
|p  Company  was  wrecked  here.  One  of  the 

)lves  bears  a  revolving  light.  111  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  16  M. 

'he  steamer  now  rounds  Bliss  Island  (which  has  a  fixed  red  light),  and 
Ithe  N.  is  seen  tiie  entrance  to  V  Etantj  Ilavbor^  a  deep  and  picturesque 

5t  which  is  well  slielterod  by  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  Cai- 
A  few  miles  S.  W.  are  seen  the  rolling  hills  of  Campobello;  Heer 

md  is  nearer,  on  the  W. ;  and  tiie  hay  is  studded  with  weird-looking 
Immocky  islands,  —  the  Nubble,  White,  and  Spruce  Islands,  the  grim 
jp-rock  mamelon  of  White  Hor.^e,  and  many  other  nameless  rocks. 

;y  are  known  as  ilie  Wist  /H(t<,  and  nu»st  of  Ihcni  are  inhabited  by 

d-working  lishcnnon. 


!    i 


» 11; 


i!^ 


32     /Jou^e  5. 


ST.  GEORGE. 


St.  George  (three  inns),  a  village  of  1,200  inhabitants  devoted  to  the 
lumber  and  granite  trades,  is  at  the  head  of  the  tide,.4  M.  from  the  ship- 
harbor  below,  and  stands  on  botl)  sides  of  the   Magaguadavie,  at  the 
Lower  Kalis,  where  the  river  is  compressed  into  a  chasm  30  ft.  wide,  and 
falls  about  50  ft.     These  falls  in  several  steps  furnish  a  water-power  uii- 1 
surpassed  in  Canada,  and  along  the  sides  of  the  gorge,  clinging  to  the 
rocks  like  eagles'  nests,  are  several  mills  in  which  lumber  and  granite  an;! 
manufactured.     Geologists  have  found  in  this  vicinity  marked  evidences  of  1 
the  action  of  icebergs  and  glaciers.     The  gorge  through  which  the  waters 
rush  with  an  almost  Niagara  roar  has  been  caused  by  some  convulsion  of' 
nature,  Avhich  in  its  mighty  throes  rent  (he  cliffs  asunder,  giving  vent  In 
what  must  have  been  a  great  lake  above.     This  district  has  become  cele- 
brated for  its  production  of  a  fine  granite  of  a  rose-red  color  which  receives  a 
high  polish,  and  is  extensively  used  for  oinamental  columns  and  moini- 
ments.     It  is  pronounced  by  competent  judges  to  be  superior  to  the  Scott  h 
granite  of    Peterhead   (popularly    called    "Aberdeen    (Jranite  "),  and  \fi 
beautifully  tinted.     The  construction      of     the     Shore     Line     Railwny  I 
affords  improved  facilities  for  visiting  this  interesting  locality. 

*'  The  Tillage,  tho  cataract,  tlio  lake,  and  the  elevated  wilderness  to  the  N.,  rendcrS 
this  part  of  the  country  peculiarly  picturesque  ;  indeed,  the  iieip;lib<)rhood  of  St  |" 
George,  the  Bigdeguasli',  ('hanicook,  and  the  lower  St.  t^roix,  present  the  travelltt 
with  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  America."     (Dr.  Uesner) 

L.ake  Utopia  is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  deep  and  sheltered  depressidii 
along  whofo  slopes  ledges  of  red  grnito  oro|)  out.     It  is  about  1  M.    from    St 
George,  and  0  M.  long,  and  connects  with  the  Magaguadavie  River  3  M.  almvi 
the  village,  by  a  natural  canal  1  M     long,  which  is  well  bordered  by  niagnilicciit: 
forest  trees,  and  furnishe.-^  a  beautiful  resort  for  boating  parties,  sportsmen,  mih:' 
anglers  <'?i  roufr  to  the  Lake.    The  earliest  pioneers  found  the  remains  of  an  am  ii  n; 
and  mysterious  temple,  all  traces  of  which  "have  now  passed  away.     Here  also  um- 
found  a  slab  of  n'd  griuiit<\  bearing  a  large  bas-relief  of  a  hi;ma»i  head,  in  style  it- 
sembling  an  Kgy])tian  sculpture,  and  liaving  a  likeness  to  >\.;shington.     This  n- 
markable  medallion  has  been  jtluced  in  tlie  Natural  History  Museum  at  St.  .Idliii 
For  nearly  40  years  the  Indians  and  lumbermen  near  the  lake  have  told  marvellmi' 
stories  of  a  marine  prodigy  called  "  the  Monster  of  Utopia,"  which  dwells  in  tin' 
fair  forest-loch.     His  last  appearance  wa«  in  18(i7,  when  several  persons  about  1 1 
shores  claimed  to  have  seen  furious  disturbances  of  the  waters,  and  to  have  caiiuli 
momentary  glimpses  of  an  animal  10  ft.  thick  and  ."0  ft   long.     Tiic  lake  abounds  iy 
silvery-gniy  trout,  and  its  tributary  streams  contain  many  brook-trout  and  smelt. 

Among  the  hills  along  the  valley  of  the  Magaguadavie  Itiver  are  the  favorite  liaint- 
of  large  numbers  of  Virginian  deer.     Moo  e  were  formerly  aV)undant  in  this  nri 
and  it  is  but  a  fi>w  years  since  over  400  were  killed  in  one  season,  for  the  sake  of  t!  »  : 
hides.     This  noble  game  animal  has  been  nearly  e.Kterminated  by  the  merciless  -»: 
tiers,  and  will  soon  i)ecome  extinct  in  this  district. 

The  MaKHKiiHtlavic  Klver  (an   Indian  name  meaning   "The  River  of  tli 
Hills")  rises  in  a  chain  of  lakes  over  80  M.  N    \V.,  within  ii  short  portage  ot  t; 
Sheogomoc  River,  a  tribntary  of  the  upper  St.  .!<  hn.     Traversing  the  great  Lints 
of  Magaguadavie  it  descends  through  iiu  uninhabited  and  barren  highland  riuiml 
tersely  described  by  an  early  pionocr  as  "  a  .'craggly  hole  "     Mu<'h  of  its  lower  valli)! 
is  a  wide  intervale,  which  is  supjtostd  to  have  been  an  anc  lent  lake-bottom.     11 
river  is  followed  closely  by  a  rugged  road,  which  leads  to  the  remote  Harvc,\  iiml 
Magaguadavie  settlements. 

After  leaving  the  port  of  St.  George,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  acros 

Passamaquoddy  Bay,  with  the  West  Isles  and  the  heights  of  Deer  Islaii| 

on  the  S.,  and  other  bold  hummocks  on  either  side.    On  the  N.  are  m 


Ihet 


lu- 


ST.  ANDREWS. 


IloiUe  5.      33 


ants  devoted  to  the 
.4  M.  from  the  ship- 
iif^aguadavic,  at  the 
asm  30  ft.  wide,  aiul- 
di  a  water-power  uii- 
orf^e,  clinsi'ig  to  \\w 
imbcr  and  granite  anv 
V  marked  evidences  of ' 
ugh  which  the  watirs 
y  «*onie  convulsion  <>f" 
under,  giving  vent  to 
rict  lias  hoconie  coif 
,coh)r  which  receives  a 
I  colunnis  and  moiiu- 
superior  to  the  Scolds 

on    (Jranite"),  a"<1  '^ 
lliore     Line     Kailw:i,v 

m  localitv. 

ildcrncps  to  thv  N.,renil(r 
the  neighborhood  of  t^t  . 
oix,  present  the  travellti 

ind  Bheltered  depression 
is  about  1  M.  from  m 
adavic  lliver  3  M.  "'"'Vt 

bordered  l»y  mngnitictui 
{T  parties,  pportsmcn.  im 

tlie  remains  of  an  an<  ini, 
K'dawa.v.     Here  also  u;h 

lii;nia'i  liead,  in  etyli'  v 
t(.  U.isliington.  This  i. 
(irv  Museum  at  St.  .Itilui 

lake  luive  told  marvel I'-U' 
ia,"  whirh  dwells  in  tin- 

several  jiersons  about  tl 

liters,  and  to  have  eaujrlij 

|)ng.     Tlie  lake  abouutis  \i 

l)nu)k-trout  and  snu'lt 

■(•rare  the  favorite  haimtl 
abundant  in  this  nrioii,| 

>ason,  for  the  sake  of  tluiif 

;ated  by  the  merciless  ntj 

Ling  "The  River  of  tli| 
liin  a  short  portage  of  tl!| 
rravcrsiug  the  great  l/iv| 
Id  barren  highland  n ti'i J 
\  Mucliof  its  lower  valus 
Indent  lake-bottom.  Tli| 
|()  the  r«'mote  Ilarvex  aii(| 

ler  runs  S.  W.  acrojj 
[leights  of  Deer  Islan 
On  the  N.  arc  tl; 


tuaries  of  the  Digdeguash  and  Bocabec  Rivers,  and  the  massive  ridge 
the  ( !hamcoolc  Mt. 

It.  Andrews,  tlu^  capital  of  Charlotte 

funty,  is  finely  situated  on  a  peninsula  at  the  mouth   of  the  St.   ('roix 

'cr,  whicli  is  here  .3  M.  wide.     It  has  ah(Mit  1,8(H)  inhabitants,  aiul  a  few 

|ict  old  streets,  surrounded  by  a  broad   belt   of  farujs.     The  town  was 

Indcd  about  a  ccnfiiry  ago,  and  soon  accjuircd  consider.ibli!  commercial 

jortance,  aiul  had  large   fleets  in  its  harlior,  loading  with  timl)er  for 

Bat  Britain  and  the  West  Indi:'s.     This  era  of  prosperity  was  ended  by 

rise  of  the  town  of  St.  Stephen  and  by  the  operation  of  tlu;  Ileciprocity 

ity,  and  for  niany  years  St.  Andrews  has  been  retrograding,  until  now 

wharves  are  deserted  and  dilapidated,  and  the  houses  seem  anti(iuated 

neglected.     Ii  has  recently  attracted  summer  visitors,  on  account  of 

pleasant   sccMu^ry   and  the  facilities  for  boating   and  Hshing. 

['he  new  Hotel  Algonquin  is  one  of  \\w.  handsomest  summer-resorts  on 

Atlantic  coasf,  ami  occupies  high  ground  rear  St.  Andn^ws,  overlook- 

a  vast  expanse  of  l*assamaquoddy  Hay.     It  is  visited  by  many  distiii- 

Ished  Americans  and  (Canadians  ever}' season.  Fogs  are  very 

re;  summer  nights  are  cool;  and  the  environs  ara  lovely.     The  town 

laid  out  in  square  blocks,  and  the  streets  are  wide  and  kept  in  good 

ler.     The  roads  an^  excellent  for  driving,  and  from  many  points  give 

feturesipu!  views.     The  public  buildings  are  the  court-house,  jail,  rec- 

olHce,  and  marine  ho.spital;  and  there  are  a  number  of   neat  private 

lidenccs. 

Of  churches  it  has  Presbyterian,  Methodist, 
itist,  Konum  Catholic,  and  (!hurch  of  England.  The  "  Argyll,"  a 
fc  structure,  with  rooms  for  200  guests,  was  opened  in  3881  as  a 
mier-hotel.  It  is  pleasantly  located  on  elevated  ground,  and  con- 
lient  to  the  beaches,  where  the  facilities  for  .sea-bathing  arc  unrivalled. 

trains  run  to  and  from  St.  Andrews,  connectinf( 

trains  for  AVoodstock,  Iloulton,  St.  .fohn,  Bangor,  Portland,  and  Bostou. 
imboiits  run  daily  ]>etween  St.  Andrcw.s,  Calais,  Eastport,  and  (/ampobello, 
liectiug  at  Eastport  with  steamers  for  St.  John,  Grand  Manan,  Portland,  and 
ton. 

The  Chamcook  Mt.  is  about  -4  M.  N.  of  St.  Andrew,  and  its  base  is 
:hed  by  a  good  road  (visitors  can  also  go  by  railway  to  the  foot  of  the 
luntain).     It  is  often  ascended  by  ])arties   for  the  sake  of  the  view, 
ich  includes  "the  lovely  Passamaquoddy  Hay,  with  its  little  islands 
outline  recalling  recollectioMs  of  the  Gulf  of  Naples  as  seen  from  the 
unit  of   Vesuvius,  whilst  the  scenery  toward   the   X.   is  hilly,  with 
[p  troughs  containing  natural  tarns,  where  trout  are  plentiful." 
Ls  the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  river,  the  little  ship-building  village 
'lobbinston  is  seen,  ou  the  American  shore.    On  the  r.  the  bold  bluffs  of 


J 


I! 


Mi 


I    » 


ttillli 


34      Route  5. 


ST.  CROIX  RIVER. 


Chamcook  Mt.  are  passed,  and  occasional  farm-houses  are  seen  along  the| 
shores.    6-6  M.  above  St.  Andrews,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  E.  side  ofj 
Doucet*s  Island,  on  which  a  lighthouse  has  been  erected  by  the  Ameri- 
can government.     W.  of  the  island  is  the  vilhige  of  Red  Bedch,  with  itsj 
plaster-mills,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  farming  settlement  of  Bay} 
Shore. 

In  the  year  1G04  Henri  IV.  of  France  granted  a  large  part  of  America  to  Pierre  diij 
Gua^t,  Sieur  de  Monts,  and  Oovcrnor  of  Pons.     Tliis  tnict  extended  from  I'hila-I 
delphia  to  Quebec,  and  was  named  Araiiie,  which  is  saiil  to  be  derived  from  a  local 
Indian  word.     IK;  Monts  sailed  from  Havre  in  April,  with  a  njotle.v  company  of  iiii-| 
pressed  vagabonds,  gentl<>nien-adventurers,  and  Huguenot  and  Catholic  clcrgyniciij 
the  latter  of  whom  (luairelled  all  the  way  over.     After  exploring  parts  of  Novjl 
Scotia  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  the  voyagers  a.scended  the  I'ast-amaquoddy  Bay  uii(l| 
the  river  to  8t.  Croix  Isle,  when;  it  was  determined  to  found  a  settlement.     Bat- 
teries were  erected  at  each  end,  joined  by  palisades,  within  which  were  the  hoii(<cifi 
of  De  Monts  and  Cliamplain,  workshops,  magazines,  the  chapel,  and  the  barracks  offi 
the  Swiss  soldiery.     But  the  winter  soon  set  in  with  its  intense  cold,  and  the  raT-J 
ages  of  disease  were  added  to  the  mis-eries  of  the  colonists.    35  out  of  79  men  did  J 
of  the  scurvy  during  the  winter;  and  when  a  supply-ship  arrived  from  France,  iiM 
June,  the  island  was  abandoned.  1 

**  It  is  meet  to  tell  you  how  hard  the  isle  of  Painte  Croix  is  to  be  found  out  tcl 
them  that  never  were  there ;  for  there  are  so  many  isles  and  great  bays  to  go  bj: 
(from  St.  John)  before  one  be  at  it,  that  I  wonder  how  one  might  ever  pierce  so  farl 
as  to  find  it.  There  are  three  or  four  mountains  imminent  above  the  others,  on  the] 
sides ;  but  on  the  N.  side,  from  whence  the  river  runneth  down,  there  is  but  asharp| 
pointed  one,  above  two  leagues  distant.     The  woods  of  the  main  land  are  fair  and 

admirable  high,  and  well  grown,  as  in  like  manner  is  tlie  grass Now  let  us  preJ 

pare  and  lioist  sails.     M.  de  I'outrincourt  n)ade  tlie  voyage  into  these  parts,  witl 
some  men  of  good  sort,  not  to  winter  there,  but  as  it  were  to  .'•eek  out  bis  seat,  aiu.S 
find  out  a  land  tiiat  might  like  him.    Which  he  having  done, had  no  need  to  sojouiT| 
there  any  longer.'"     Late  in  the  year,  "  the  most  urgent  tilings  being  done,  an| 
hoary  snowy  father  being  come,  that  is  to  say,  Winter,  then  they  were  forced  tJ 
keep  within  doors,  and  to  live  every  one  at  his  own  hoitie.     During  which  time  ota 
men  had  three  s|>ecial  disconunodities  in  this  island  :  want  of  wood  (for  that  whiij 
was  in  the  said  isle  was  spent  in  buildings),  lack  of  fresh  water,  and  the  contimiii 
watch  made  by  night,  fearing  some  surprise  from  the  savages  that  had  lodged  thcii^i 
selves  at  the  foot  of  the  said  island,  or  some  other  enemy.     For  the  malediction  an 
rage  of  nuiny  Christians  is  such,  that  one  must  take  liecd  of  them  mucii  more  tlia^ 
of  infidels."     (Lkscarbot's  NouveUe  France.) 

In  1783  the  river  St.  Croix  was  designated  as  the  E.  boundary  of  Maine^but  tb 
Americans  claimed  that  the  true  St.  Croix  was  the  streauj  called  the  MugaguadavkJ 
It  then  becanie  inijwrtant  to  find  traces  of  De  Monts's  settlement  of  18()  years  pn  J 
vious,  as  that  would  locate  the  true  St.  Croix  River.    8o,  after  long  searching  anion  | 
the  bushes  and  jungle,  the  boundary -commissioners  succeeded  in  finding  renuiaii; 
of  the  ancient  French  occupation  on  Neutral  (Doucet's)  Island,  and  thus  fixed  tL 
line. 

About  10  M.  above  St.  Andrews  the  river  deflects  to  the  W.,  and  to  tl 
N.  is  seen  the  deej)  and  spacious  *  Oak  Bay,  surrounded  by  bold  hills,  iiii^ 
forming  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  prospect.     It  is  supposed  that  tl:j| 
French  explorers  named  the  St.  Croix  River  from  the  resemblance  of  i:; 
waters  at  this  point  to  a  cross, — the  upright  arm  being  formed  by  ti^ 
river  to  the  S.  and  Oak  Bay  to  the  N.,  while  the  horizontal  arm  is  outlim; 
by  the  river  to  the  W.  and  a  cove  and  creek  on  the  E.     At  the  head  of  tti 
bay  is  the  populous  farming-village  of  Oak  Bay,  with  three  churches. 

Rounding  on  the  1.  the  bold  bluff  called  Devil's  Head  (from  one  Duvi^J 
who  formerly  lived  there),  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  VV.,  in  a  narrc^ 


ST.   STEPHEN. 


Rnnle  5. 


35 


scs  are  seen  along  the| 
asses  on  tlic  E.  side  of 
erected  by  the  Ameri- 
:>f  Htd  Beach,  with  itsj 
iiing  settlement  of  Bayl 

rt  of  America  to  Pierre  (lu! 
met  extended  from  Pliilal 
to  be  derived  from  a  loi  iil 
1  a  motlcv  company  of  im- 
>t  and  CiitJiolic  cU-rgynui, 
r  explorini?  parts  of  Ndv.i 
.  l»assama(iuoddy  Bay  mil 
found  a  settlement.     15;it- 
lun  wliich  were  the  houm 
'Impel,  and  the  barracks  of  ^^ 
intense  cold,  and  the  ra\ 
8.    35  out  of  79  men  died 
lip  arrived  from  France,  ir 

Croix  is  to  be  found  out  tf 
!S  and  great  bays  to  go  h} 
inc  miglit  ever  pierce  so  fir 
'Ut  above  the  others,  on  tin 
li  down,  there  is  but  a  sharp 
the  main  land  are  fair  and 

,  grass Now  let  us  pre- 

)yage  into  these  part><,  witl 

ere  to  seek  out  his  seat,  am 

[lone,  had  no  need  to  sojouri 

ent  things  being  done,  aiii 

r,  then  they  were  forced  t 

10.     During  which  time  or 

nt  of  wood  (for  that  whi< 

h  water,  and  the  contim 

rages  that  had  lodged  then, 

/.     For  the  malediction  m 

d  of  them  much  more  tliat^ 

boundary  of  Maine/  but  tl 
m  called  the  MngaguadavH : 
settlement  of  180  years  prr. 

after  long  searching  anioi: 
cceeded  in  finding  remiian; 

Island,  and  thus  fixed  tt 

^cts  to  the  W.,  and  to  tl,^ 

lunded  by  bold  hills,  rtii| 

It  Is  supposed  that  til 

the  resemblance  of 

Irm  being  formed  by  t[| 

liorizontal  arm  is  outliw 

Tie  E.    At  the  head  of  tl 

hvith  three  churches. 

Head  (from  one  Duv8| 

the  N.  W.,  in  a  narw| 


lUS 


annel,  between  sterile  shores.  2-3  M.  above  is  the  antiquated  marine 
iiilt't  called  The  Ltdqe  (I.  bank),  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  depend- 
t  on  the  sea  for  their  livinj;.  4  M.  above,  the  steamer  reaches  St.  Stephen. 
St.  Stephen  (Queen  Ilotd)  is  an  active  and  cnterprisinf?  provincial  town, 
the  headof  navif^ation  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  opposite  the  American  city 
Calais,  and  the  W.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Southern  Railway  (see  paffe 
)  from  St.  John  (see  also  paf?e  30  b).  The  population  is  3,000,  with  6 
urches  1  newspaper,  and  2  banks.  Tlie  business  of  St.  Stephen  is 
t)stlv  connected  with  the  nuinufacturc  and  shipment  of  lumber.  The 
ills  of  the  river  at  this  point  give  a  valuable  water-power,  which  will 

bablv  be  devoted  to  general  manufacturing  purposes  after  the  lumber 
Ipplv  begins  to  fail.     A  covered  bridje  connects  St.  Stephen  with  Calais 
ht  American  House  ;  St.  Croix  Exchange),  a  small  city  of  the  State  of 

ine,  with  6,000  inhabitants,  7  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  2  banks. 
Ithough  under  different  flags,  and  separated  by  lines  of  customs-officers, 

Ste()hen  and  Calais  form  practically  but  one  community,  with  identi- 

[l  pursuits  and  interests.     Their  citizens  have  always  lived  in  perfect 

ternity,  and  tbrmed  and  kept  an  agreement  by  which  the}'  abstained 

m  hostilities  during  the  War  of  1812.     At  that  time  the  authorities  also 

tiiiined  the  restless  spirits  from  the  back  country  from  acts  of  violence 
|ross  the  borders.  2-3  M.  above  is  another  Canado-American  town, 
th  large  lumber-mills  at  the  falls,  which  is  divided  by  the  river  into 
lltown-St.  Stephen  and  Milltowii-Calais.  Travellers  who  cross  tlie  river 
her  at  Calais  or  Milltown  will  have  their  baggage  looked  into  by  the 
Btoms-officers,  squads  of  whom  are  stationed  at  the  ends  of  the  bridges. 

A  Railway  runs  N.  from  St.  Stephen  to  Iloulton  and 
idstock  (sfe  Route  6).  Calais  is  connected  with  the  .Schoodic  Lakes  by  railway, 
with  Eastport  by  stjiges.  The  U.  S.  Mail-stage  runs  daily  to  Bangor,  95  M.  W. 
s,  S7.50),  p.ia.sing  through  a  wide  tract  of  unoccupied  wilderness.  The  Bteam< 
It  leaves  Calais  or  St.  Stephen  daily  in  summer,  and  semi  weekly  in  winter,  for 
Itport,  where  it  connects  witli  the  International  steamships  for  Portland  and 
iton  (see  also  Route  3,  and  New  Emiland).    Fares,  Calais  to  Portland, 

\LQ  \  to  Boston,  by  water,  $5.60  ;  to  Boston,  by  rail  from  Portland,  $  7. 

The  Schoodic  Lakes. 

railway  runs  21  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Lew ey's  Island  (2  inns), 

[Princeton,  whence  the  touri>t  may  enter  the  lovely  and  picturesque 

[loodic  Lakes.     The  steamer  Gipsey  carries  visitors  12  M.  up  the  lake  to 

tnd  Lake  Stream,  one  of  the  most  famous  fishing-grounds  in  America. 

trout  in  Lewey's  Lake  have  been  nearly  exterminated  by  the  voracious 

},  but  the  upper  waters  are  more  carefully  guarded,  and  contain  perch, 

lerel,  land-locked  salmon,  lake-trout,  and  fine  speckled-trout.     The 

md  Lake  Stream  is  3-4  M.  long,  and  connects  the  Grand  and  Big 

les  with  its  rapid  waters,  in  which  are  found  many  of  the  famous  sil- 

salmon-trout     The  urban  parties  who  visit  these  forest-lakes  usually 

>ge  Indian  guides  to  do  the  heavy  work  of  portages  and  camp-build- 


:)n 


MM 


':-\i 


<s; 


iMMtf 


\ 


36       lioufe  0. 


SCHOODTC  LAKES. 


Inp,  find  to  guide  their  course  from  lake  to  lake.     Tliero  is  a  largo  villn-o 
of  the  Passaiiiiiquoddy  tril)o.  iioar  the  t(H)t  of  Big  Lake.     A  two  honiv 
portage  leads   to  Grand  Lake,   a  hroad  and  hcautilul  forest-sea,   witlJ 
gravelly  shores,  pirturesciue  islets,  and  trauspjireiit  waters.     The  cry  dfj 
the  loon  is  often  heanl  here,  and  a  few  hear  and  deer  still  lurk  along  Hk! 
shores.     From  (Jrand  Lake  a  lahyriiiLli  of  smaller  and  yet  more  reniufj 
lakes  may  l>e  «'nter«>d  ;   and   itortagcs  conduct  thence  to  the  niivigal.|,| 
trihutaries  of  the  Machias  and  Penobscot  Kivers. 

"  Ono  of  fh<»  most  pu-tiu-csijuo  portions  of  tlic>  western  Pci.  iodic  n-j^ion  is  Or;iii,H 
Lake.     Tliis  noble  slun-t  of  water  !•<  broken  iwn«  nn<l  tliere  bv  islets,  iind  siirrouii.l.l  ' 
even  to  tlie  waters  ed^o,  witli  foiv.vts  of  pine  and  bard  wood,  wliilst  it-*  bottom  \'- 
covered  witli  Kranitie  lu.wlders,  wliioii,  in  eonibinatiijn  with  drift,  are  spread  far  audi 
wide  uujoiig  the  arboreal  vegetation  around.'' 

"  While  till- fof;  is  lifting  from  Sclioo.lic  Lake, 
And  th(«  wliifc  tiont  nri' linpinf?  for  Hios, 
It  H  «xvitnuj  sport  tlioso  licnnlics  |<>  tuko. 
Jogging  tlu'  ncrvrs  and  IVusting  the  vyva." 

Gknio  C.  Scott. 

II  St  Andrews  and  St  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton. 

DiHtailcen.  —  St.  Andrews  to  (Mianirook,  5  M.  ;    llartlett's.  11;    Waweijr,  i;! 
Roix  Koud,lf);  Hewitt's,  !!•  ;  Kollin};  Dam.  kO ;  Dumbarton,  24;   Watt  .lunclinn 
27  (St.  Stephen  to  Waft  .Mnietiou,  lit);   hawrenre,  21  > :  Darber  Dam.  34  ;  M(A(liiiii. 
Junetion,  48:  Deer  Lake.  GK  ;  Canterburv.  (if)  ;  IVl  River,  75;  Wickliam,  80  ;  Drlucd 
Junction,  90  (lloul  on,  J»8);  llodgdon,  98  ;  Woodstock,  101. 

The  country  traversed  by  this  liru>  is  one  of  th(>  uiost  irredeemably  dc- 
olate  regions  in  North  Amer'ca.      The  view  from  the  car-windows  pm 
seuts  a  coutinna'i  .-^uc.  cssiou  of  dead  and  dying  forests,  clearings  bristliiil 
with  stumis,  and  funereal  clusters  of  blasted  and  fire-scorched  tree-trunkJ 
The  traces  of  human  habitation,  which  at  wide  intervals  are  seen  in  tlii| 
gloomy  lar.d,  are  cabins  of  logs,  -where  poverty  and  toil  seem  the  fittc' 
occtipants;  and  Nature  has  withheld  the  hills  and  lakes  ^vith  which  siis 
rudely  adorns  other  wildernesses.     The  sanguine  Dr.  Gesner  wrote  a  vn; 
ume  inviting  immigration  to  New  Brunswick,  and  describing  its  doniiiiiK 
in  hinguage  which  reaches  the  outer  verge  of  complaisant  oj)timism  ;  In; 
in  presence  of  the  lands  between  the  upper  St.  .Tohn  and  St.  Ste|)hen  lii 
pen  lost  its  hyperbolical  fervor.     He  says:   ''Excepting  the  intervale 
the  stream,  it  is  necessary  to  speak  with  circumspection  in  regard  to  tlil 
genornl  quality  of  the  lands.     Many  tracts  are  fit  for  little  else  but  ji;!  I 
turage."     This  district  is  occuj)ied,  for  the  most  part,  by  the  remains  i;! 
sofY-wood  forest?,  whose  soils  are  always  inferior  to  those  of  the  liiiiii 
wood  districts. 

For  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Andrews  the  railway  lies  near  tli| 
shores  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  aflbrding  pleasant  views  to  the  r.     T 
the  great  mass  of  Chamcook  Mt.  is  passed,  with  its  abrupt  sides  ;n;| 
rounded  summit.     Waweig  is  between   Bonaparte   Lake  and  Oak  l);i| 
(see  page  34).    About  7  M.  beyond,  the  line  approaches  the  Dlgdegiiasl 


ST.   JOHN   TO   HANCJOll. 


Huiiti 


37 


rhcro  is  ft  largo  villa-r 
;  liiiko.  A  two  honi  ' 
lutifiil  fori'st-son,  Avit! 
lit  \v!\t(M-s.  Tlu!  rrv  'i 
rcr  still  lurk  along  tlu 
•  and  yet  nioro  rcni'  t, 
lonro  to  the  navigiililc 

I  Sc'i.  io»llo  n'fjiloti  is  (JtMiii 
)  by  islets,  mill  surromnli  l 
wood,  \vlnl8t  its  bottciin  i- 
th  drift,  mo  spread  far  ml 

,nkc, 

I'B." 

Uknio  C.  Scott. 

stock  and  Houlton. 

artlott's.  11  ;    Wawcijr,  l^i 
artnn,  24  ;  Watt  .)ur.(ii"ii 
llarluT  Diiin.  34  ;  Mt  Ailini, 
■r,  75  ;  Wickliain,  80  ;  I).  Im. 
101. 

I'  most  irroilooinably  dt- 

m  the  oar-windows  i>iv 

)iTsts,  clearings  bristlni. 

ro-scorclied  trec-trunk- 

intcrvals  are  seen  in  tlii 

und  toil  seem  the  fiti" 

id  lakes  with  which  >L 

Dr.  Gesner  wrote  a  vn 

d  describing  its  doniair 

liplaisant  oi)tiinism  •,  In; 

[ohn  and  St.  Stephen  lii. 

Iceptiug  the  intervales  (/ 

spection  in  regard  to  tli| 

it  for  little  else  but  pn 

part,  by  the  remains  d 
)r  to  those  of  the  liiirJ| 

le  railway  lies  near  tli'j 
It  views  to  the  r.     Tlu| 
jith  its  abrupt  sides  ai| 
Irte   Lake  and  Oak  l):ii 
Iroaches  the  DigdegKiiil 


Ivcr,  which  it  follows  to  its  «oiirco.     At  Wntt  Junction  the  St.  Stc]>lien 
inch  Kuilway  comes  in  on  the  1.,  and  the  train  pHsHc«  on  to  McAdinn 

Inction,   wliere  it  intersects   the   (Jonadian   Tacific  Railway   (page  38). 

lere  is  a  restaurant  at  this  station,  ami  the  passtajger  will  have  time  to 
le  wliile  the  train  is  waiting  for  the  urilrul  of  the  trains  from  I'angor 

from  St.  John. 

The  foH'st  is  again  entered,  and  the  train  passes  on  for  1(J  M.  until  it 
jiehes  the  lumber-station  at  Deer  Lake.  The  next  station  ia  CanUV' 
ry,  near  the  beautiful  Skiff  liake.  Kuiiuing  N.  W.  for  10  M.,  the  Eel 
ver  is  croshsd,  and  at  J)i'(H'r  Junction  the  jiassengvr  changers  for  VVood- 
«k.  A  train  runs  thence  8  M.  N.W.  to  Houlton  {Siull  lloim),  the  shire- 
n\  of  Aroostook  ('(Uinty,  Maine,  with  4,000  inhabitants,  2  papers,  opera 

lusc,  electric  lights,  water-works,  and  a  noble  view  from  tin;  <dd  fort  on 

^rrison  Hill.    The  other  train  rims  N.  I''.,  down  the  valley  of  the  South 

Dok,  and  in  about  (}  M.  emerges  on  the  highlaiuls  above  tlu!  valley  of 

St.  .John  River.     For  tlu!  ensuing  5  M.  there  an;  Ixiautiful  views  of  the 

rer  ami  its  cultivated  intervales,  presenting  a  wonderfid  contrast  to  the 

feary  region  behind.     The  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus  at  the  pretty 

jlage  of  Woodstock  (see  Route  11). 

7.    St.  John  to  Bangor. 

Hsf anceB.  —  St,  John;  Carleton,  J  M.  ;   Fairville,  4;   South  Bay,  7;   Oranfl 

r,  12;  Wcstfield,  IG  ;  Nerepis,  20 ;  WVlsford,  2t» ;  (Clarendon,  ,'{0 ;  (la>5|K;rcaux. 
Eimiskillen,  .3i) ;  lloyt,  .'{!);  Blis.svilU;,  42  ;  Krt'dericton  . I  miction,  4f'» ;  Traryi 
Cork,  01;  Harvey,  <»«} ;  Maf^a^^uadavic ,  70:  Me  Adam  .lunetioii  H.') ;  St.  ('rolx, 
Vanceboro",  1)2;  .laekson  IJrook,  112;  Danfortli,  117;  Haiierolt,  120;  Kinj?- 
In,  l.'J'.>;  Mattawiniikea}^,  147;  Wiim,  100 ;  liiiieohi  Centre,  1;V.> ;  l^iiicobi,  lOl , 
meld,  170;  rassaduinkea<r,  175;  (Uauion,  17'.);  (Jreenbusli,  1H2;  (^ostijraii,  187', 
Iford.  1!)2;  Oldtown,  1!).3 ;  (Sreat  Works,  1U4  ;  Webster,  100;  Ororio,  1!)7  ;  Basin 
lis,  1!»S;  Veazie.  201;  B.iiiK'or,  20.").  (Newport,  2.'«  :  Waterville.  2;;0  ;  Augusta, 
I;  brunswick,  315;  Portland,  313;  Portsmouth,  395;  Newburyport,  415;  Bos- 
h  451.) 

?he  traveller  takes  the  train  at  the  terminal  station.     'I'lie  line  ascends 
)ugh  the  North  End,  giving  extensive  views.    The  St.  John  River  is 
ssed  near  the  Falls,  on  the  great  and  lofty  cantilever  bridge  of  steel, 
ilt  in  1^85.   Formerly  passengers  were  ferried  across  trom  ( 'arleton  to  St. 
m.  The  train  soon  reaches  Fairville^  a  growing  town  near  the  i'roviucial 

[natic  As'vlum  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  There  are  numerous  lumber- 
Us  here,  in  the  coves  of  the  river.    The  train  sweeps  around  the  South 

|y  on  a  high  grade,  and  soon  reaches  the  Grand  Bay  of  the  vSt  .John 
rer,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  deep  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis,  Bay, 
til  its  environment  of  dark  hills.  The  shores  of  the  Long  Reach  are  fol- 
ded for  sever.al  miles,  with  beautiful  view.s  on  the  r.  over  the  placid 

^er  and  its  vessels  and  villages  (see  also  page  41).  To  the  W.  is  a 
irsely  settled  and  rugged  region  in  which  are  many  lakes,  —  Loch 
ra,  the  Robin  Hood,  Sherwood,  and  the  Queen's  Lakes. 


oo       Huiitt  7. 


CHIPUTNETICOOK   LAKES. 


II  \ 


M 


Wm  \ 


\'\ 

\ 

r    ■ 

ii     ' 

i 

f 

it                           ^ 

1' 

i  ' 

M 

\     ' 

. : 

■:■  ! 

! !  lilf 

!  i  lllii: 


The  line  leaves  the  Long  Reach,  niul  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  the  valley 
of  the  Nerepls  River,  which  is  followed  as  far  as  the  hamlet  of  Wahford 
(small  inn).     The  country  now  grows  very  tame  and  uninteresting,  as  thci 
Douglas  Valley  is  ascended.     Clarendon  is  7  M.  from  the  Clarendon  Set-j 
tlement,  with  its  new  homes  wrested  from  the  savuge  forest.     From  Gas- 
pereaux  a  wagon  conveys  passengers  to  the  South  Oromocto  Lake,  10-12J 
M  S.  W.,  among  the  highlands,  a  secluded  sheet  of  water  about  5  M.  long,  j 
abounding  in  trout,     lieyond  the  lumber  station  of  Eimiskillen,  the  train 
passes  the  prosperous  village  of  lilissville;  and  at  Frtdericton  Junction  &\ 
connection  is  made  for  Fredericton,  about  20  M.  N. 

Tracy's  Milts  is  the  next  stopping-place,  and  is  a  cluster  of  lumber-mills  * 
on  the  Oromocto  River,  which  traverses  the  village.    On  either  side  are; 
wide  tracts  of  unpopulated  wilderness;  and  after  crossing  the  parish  ofs 
New  Maryland,  the  line  enters  Manners  Sutton,  passes  the  Cork  Settle- 
ment, and  stops  at  the  Harvey  Settlement,  a  rugged  district  occupied  by 
families  from  the  borders  of  England  and  Scotland.    To  the  N.  and  N.  W. 
are  the  Bear  and  Cranberry  Lakes,  aflbrding  good  fishing.     A  road  leads 
S.  7-8  M.  from  Harvev  to  the  Oromooto  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water 
nearly  10  M.  long  and  3-4  M.  wide,  where  many  large  trout  are  found. 
The  neighboring  forests  contain  various  kinds  of  game.    Near  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  the  lake  is  the  small  hamlet  of  Tweedside.     The  Bald  Movntain, 
"near  the  Harvey  Settlement,  is  a  great  mass  of  porphyry,  with  a  lake 
(probably  in  the  crater)  near  the  summit.     It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  coal 
measures,  where  they  touch  the  slate." 

Magaguadavic  station  is  at  the  foot  of  Magaguadavic  Lake,  which  is 
about  8  M.  long,  and  is  visited  by  sportsmen.  On  its  E.  shore  is  the  low 
and  bristling  Magaguadavic  Ridge;  and  a  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lies  to 
the  N. 

The  train  now  runs  S.  W.  to  McAdam  Junction  (restaurant  in  the  sta- 
tion), where  it  intersects  the  railway  from  St.  Andrews  to  Woodstock.  6 
M.  beyond  McAdam,  through  a  monotonous  wilderness,  is  St.  Croix^  on 
the  river  of  thP  s^ine  name.  After  crossing  the  river  the  train  enters  the 
United  States,  and  is  visited  by  the  customs-officers  at  Vanceboro'  (  Vance- 
boro"  House).  This  is  tlfp  station  whence  the  beautiful  lakes  of  the  upper 
Schoodic  may  be  visited. 

The  Chiputnetlrook  T  RltPS  aw  about  45  M.  in  length,  in  a  N.  W.  course, 
nnd  are  from  >4  to  10  M.  in  width.  Their  navigation  is  very  intricate,  by  reason  of 
the  multitude  of  islets  and  islands,  narrow  passages,  coves,  and  deep  inlets,  which 
diversity  of  land  and  water  affords  beautiful  combinations  of  scenery.  The  islands 
are  covered  with  cedar,  hemlock,  and  birch  trees;  and  the  bold  highlands  which 
8hadow  the  lakes  are  also  well  wooded.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the 
scenery  is  the  abundance  of  bowlders  and  ledges  of  fine  white  granite,  either  seen 
through  the  transparent  waters  or  lining  the  shore  like  massive  masonry.  "Uni- 
versal gloom  and  stillness  reign  over  these  lakes  and  the  forests  around  them." 

Beyond  Vanceboro'  the  train  passes  through  an  almost  unbroken  wilder- 
ness for  65  M.,  during  the  last  16  M.  following  the  course  of  the  Matta- 


III 


ST.  JOHN   RIVER. 


Route  8.      89 


ramkeag  River.    At  Mattawamkeag  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  goes 

^fi  to  Moosehead  Lake  and  Montreal.     Tlie  Maine  Central  Railway  fol- 

)ws  the    reuobscot  River,  traversing  a  RUCce.«sion   of   Ihinly  populated 

nnbering  towns.     Forty-five  miUs  below  Mattawamkeag,  the  Penobscot 

crossed,  and  the  train  reaches  Oldtown  (two  inns),  a  place  of  about 

i  000  inhabitants,  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber  business.     The  traveller 

luuld  notice  here  the  immense  and  costly  booms  and  mills,  one  of  which 

tlie  largest  in  the  world  and  has  100  saws  at  work  cutting  out  planks. 

On  an  island  just  above  Oldtown  is  the  home  of  the  Tamitiue  Indiuni!,  formerly 

If  iiKwt  powerful  and  warlike  ot  the  Northern  trihes.     They  were  at  first  well-dis- 

DSfd  towards  the  colonists,  but  after  a  series  of  wrongs  and  insults  the>  took  up 

mis  in  1078,  and  intiicted  such  terrible  damage  on  the  settlements  that  Maiue  be- 

luie  tributary  to  them  by  the  I'eace  of  (;as<o.     After  destroying  the  fortress  of  Pem- 

luid  to  avenge  an  insult  to  their  chief,  St.  Castin,  they  remained  quiet  for  many 

uirs.    The  treaty  of  1720  contains  the  substance  of  their  present  relations  with  the 

Itate.    The  declension  of  the  tribe  was  marked  for  two  centuries ;  but  it  is  now 

lowly  increasing.    The  people  own  the  islands  in  the  Penobscot,  and  have  a  reve- 

j[ue  of  $6 - 7,000  from  the  State,  which  the  men  eke  out  by  working  on  the  lumber- 

ifts,  and  by  hunting  and  fishing,  while  the  women  make  baskets  and  other  trifles 

»r  sale.    The  island-village  is  without  streets,  und^onsists  of  many  small  houses 

lilt  around  a  Catholic  church     There  are  over  400  persons  here,  most  of  whom 

half-breeds. 

Below  Oldtown  the  river  is  seen  to  be  filled  with  booms  and  rafts  of 
Imber,  and  lined  with  saw-mills.     At   Orono  is  the  State  Agricultural 

)llege;  and  soon  after  passing  Veazie  the  train  enters  the  city  of 
langor. 

For  descriptions  of  Bangor,  the  Penobscot  River,  and  the  route  to  Bos- 
jon,  see  Sweetser's  New  England. 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton.  —  The  St.  John  Eiver. 

The  steamers  Ikivid  Weston  and  Acadia^  of  the  Union  Line,  leave  St.  John  (Indian- 
)wu)  every  morning.  See  also  Routes  ;>  and  10.  These  vessels  an;  comfortably 
tted  up  for  passengers,  in  the  manner  of  the  smaller  boats  on  the  ilud^'Oi)  River 
pinner  is  served  on  boird  ;  ai.d  Fredericton  is  reached  late  in  the  afternoon.  On 
reune.«day  and  haturday  travellers  can  ascend  the  river  to  Ilampst'^ad,  33  M.,  and 
»turn  to  St.  John  the  same  day  on  the  boat  bound  down,  which  leaves  FrederictOA 

8  X.  M. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  John  River  is  pretty,  and  has  a  pleasing  pastoral  quiet- 
ess.    The  elements  of  the  landscapes  are  simple ;  the  settlements  are  few  and 

mil,  and  at  no  time  will  the  traveller  find  his  attention  violently  drawn  to  any 

ssing  object.     There  are  beautiful  views  on  the  Long  Reach,  at  Beileisle  Bay, 

id  during  the  approach  to  Fredericton,  but  the  prevalent  character  of  the 
cenery  is  that  of  quiet  and  restful  rural  lands,  by  which  it  is  pleasant  to  drift  on 

balmy  summer-day.     Certain  provincial  writers  have  done  a  mischief  to  the  St. 

Polin  by  bestowing  upon  it  too  extrav.igant  praise,  thereby  preparing  a  disappoint- 

lent  for  such  as  believed  their  report.     One  calls  it  "  the  Rhine  of  America,"  and 

lother  prefers  it  to  the  Hudson.  This  is  wide  exaggeration  ;  but  if  the  traveller 
rould  enjoy  a  tranquillizing  and  luxurious  journey  througi  a  pretty  farming  coun- 
ry,  abounding  in  mild  diversity  ct  scenery,  he  should  devote  a  day  to  this  river. 

Distances.  — (The  steamboat-landings  bear  the  names  of  their  owners,  and  the 
>l!o\ving  itinerary  bears  reference  rather  to  the  villages  on  the  shores  than  to  the 
topping-places  of  the  boats.)  St.  John  ;  Brunda'^c's  Point,  10  M.  ;  Westfield,  17  ; 
jreenwich  Hill,  19;  Oak  Point,  25;  Long  Reach,  26;  Tennant's  Cove  (Beileisle 
|ay),  29;  Wickham,  32;   Hampstead,  33;    Otnabog,  41;    Qagetown,  50;    Upper 

igetown,  58  ;  Maugerville,  72  ;  Oromocto,  75  ;  Glaaier's,  81 ;  Fredericton,  86. 

Fares.  —  St.  John  to  Frederictou,  $  1. 


;     ! 


It' 


r       1 11 

r   'j'nwvw 


40       Route  8. 


KENNEBECASIS  BAY. 


This  river  was  called  Looshtook  (Long  River)  by  the  Etchemin  Indians,  and 
Ouansiouilie  by  the  Micmacs.  It  is  supiM)s«(i  to  havo  been  visited  by  De  Monts, 
or  other  uxplorcrs  at  an  «'»rly  day,  and  in  the  coinniis.sion  of  the  year  1598  to  the 
Lieut  -(iencral  of  Acadia  it  is  called  L«  Riviere  de  In  Grande  Btiie.  But  no  exam- 
ination \si\»  made  of  the  up|H'r  waters  until  St.  John's  Day,  1*}()4,  when  the  Frencli 
fle<*t  under  De  Monts  and  I'outrincourt  entered  the  jjreat  river.  In  honor  of  the 
saint  on  whose  fe-<tival  the  explonition  was  be>rnn,  it  was  then  entitled  the  St.  John. 
After  spending  s<'veral  weeks  in  a>:eending  tiie  stream  and  its  connected  waters,  tlie 
discoverers  sailiMl  away  to  the  south,  bearinj;  a  jrood  report  of  the  chief  river  of 
Acadia.  De  Monts  exp«'eted  to  find  by  this  course'  a  near  route  to  Tadousac,  on  the 
Saguenay,  and  theretbn;  sailed  up  as  far  ius  t\w  depth  of  water  would  permit.  "  The 
extent  of  this  river,  the  fisli  with  which  it  wits  tilled,  the  grapes  growing  on  its 
banks,  and  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  were  all  objects  of  wonder  and  admiration." 
At  a  substHjuent  day  the  fierce  struggles  of  the  French  seigneurs  were  waged  on  its 
shores,  and  the  invading  Heets  of  New  England  furrowed  its  tranquil  waters. 

The  St.  John  is  the  cliief  river  of  the  Maritime  I*rovinces,  and  ia  over  450  M. 
iu  length,  being  navigable  for  steamers  of  1,(XX)  tons  for  90  M.,  for  light-draught  | 
steamers  270  M.  (with  a  break  at  the  Grand  Falls),  and  for  canoes  for  nearly  its  i 
entire  extent.     It  takes  its  rise  in  the  gn^at  Maine  forest,  near  the  sources  of  the] 
Penobscot  and  the  (!haudi>  re ;  and  froni  the  lake  which  heads  its  S.  W    Rranch 
the  Indian  voijnueurs  carry  tiieir  canoes  across  the  Mtgarmette  Portage  and  launch  | 
them  in  the  Ohaudiere,  on  which  they  descend  to  Quebec.     Flowing  to  the  N.  E. 
for  over  150  M.  through  the  >l|ii)i(>  forest,  it  receives  the  Allagash,  St   Francis,  and 
other  large  streams  ;  and  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis  nearly  to  the  Gnmd 
Falls,  a  distance  of  75  M.,  it  forms  the  frotitier  between  the  United   States  and 
Canada.     It  is  the  chief  member  in  that  gr<'at  system  of  rivers  and  lakes  which  has 
won  for  New  Brunswick  the  distinction  of  V)eing  "  the  most  finely  watered  country 
in  the  world.""   At  M»ulawii.ska  tlie  course  changes  from  N.  E    to  S.  E,  and  tlie 
sparsely  settled  N.  \V.  counties  of  the  I'rovince  :ire  traversed,  with  large  tribut^iries 
coming  in  on  either  side.     During  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  it  receives  the  waters 
of  the  great  basins  of  the  (trand  and  NVashademoak  Lakes  and  tij"  Belleisle  and 
Kennebecasis  Bays,  which  have  a  pandlel  direction  to  th«!  N.  E.,and   alford  good 
facilities  for  inl;ind  navigHti<m.     Tlie  tributary  streams  are  connected  with  tho.'-e  of 
the  flulf  and  of  the  Hay  of  Chaleur  by  short  portJiges  (which  will  be  mentioned  iu 
conne<;tion  with  their  points  of  departure). 

Immediately  after  leavinj;  the  dock  at  St.  John  a  fine  retr()s|)ect  is 
given  of  Mie  dark  chasm  below,  over  which  the  light  and  graceful  suspen- 
sion-bridge and  the  railway  steel  cantilever  bridge  are  placed.  IJunniiig 
up  by  Point  Pleasant,  the  boat  ascends  a  narrow  gorge  with  high  and 
abrupt  banks,  at  whose  bases  are  large  luniber-n»ills.  On  the  r.  is  Boards 
Head,  a  picturesque  rocky  promontory,  in  whose  sides  are  quarries  of  lime- 
stone; 3-4  M.  above  Indiantown  the  broad  expanse  of  Grand  .flf/y  ia  en- 
tered, and  South  Bay  is  seen  opening  on  the  1.  rear. 

The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  now  seen,  opening  to  the  N  E.  This  nob'io 
sheet  of  water  is  from  1  to  4  M.  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  large  vessels 
for  over  20  M.  It  receives  the  Kennebecasis  and  Hammond  Hivers,  and 
contains  several  islands,  the  chief  of  which,  Lonrj  Islarul,  is  5  M.  long, 
and  is  opposite  the  village  of  Kotliesay  (see  jtage  22).  The  K.  shore  is  fol- 
lowed for  many  miles  by  the  track  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

Tlie  testimony  of  the  rocks  causes  scientists  to  believe  that  the  St.  John  formerly 
emptied  l>y  two  mouths,  —  thrnnj;li  the  Kennelie<!u<is  and  the  Mansh  Valley,  and 
tlirough  South  Bay  into  ^^nlll  .vagotiish  l>ay,  — and  that  the  breaking  down  'd*  the 
present  channel  through  the  lofty  hills  W  of  St.  John  is  an  event  quit«'  recent  in 
geological  history.  The  Indians  still  preserve  a  tradition  that  this  barriei  of  hilbJ 
was  once  unbroken  and  served  to  divert  the  stream. 


LONG  REACH. 


Route  8.       41 


Itchemin  Indians,  and 
visited  by  De  Monts, 
Df  the  year  1598  to  the 
Riie.  But  no  exain- 
U)()4,  when  the  Frendi 
iver.  In  honor  of  the 
1  entitled  the  St.  John. 
!  connected  waters,  the 
;  of  the  chief  river  of 
ite  to  Tndousac,  on  the 
p  would  permit.  "  The 
prapes  {frowinj?  on  its 
ider  and  admiration." 
ieur.><  were  wajjed  on  its 
tranquil  waters. 

?s,  and  ia  over  450  M. 
I  M.jfor  light-draught! 
r  cano««  for  nearly  its ' 
lear  the  sources  of  the  I 
eads  its  S.  W    Rranch 
te  Portage  and  launch 

Flowing  to  the  N.  E. 
itgash,  St  Francis,  and 
*  nearly  to  the  Onind 
he  United  States  and 
rs  and  lakes  which  has 
liiicly  watered  country 

.  E  to  S.  E,  and  the 
,  with  large  trihutiiries 
e  it  receives  the  waters 

and  th"  Helleisle  and 
N.  E.,aiid  airord  good 
[onnected  with  those  (if 
h  >\ill  be  mentioned  iu 


a  fine  rctro.'«pect  is 
ind  graceful  siispen- 
e  ))luced.  Kuniiiiig 
jfj^e  with  high  and 
On  the  r.  is  Boards 
are  quarries  of  lime- 
Grand  Bay  is  en- 

N  K.  This  nnbie 
e  for  large  vessels 
nnoiid  Hivors,  and 
Iffw/,  is  T)  M.  long, 
The  K,  shore  is  fol- 
{aiiway. 

le  St.  ,lohn  formerly 
V  Marsh  Valley,  and 
freaking  down  of  the 
went  quite  recent  in 
this  barrier  of  IMU 


On  the  banks  of  the  placid  Kennebecaais  the  ancient  Micmac  legends  locate  the 

lonie  of  the  (Jreat  Heaver,  "  feareil  by  beasts  and  men."'  whom  (liooscap  finally 

)iniueroil  and  put  to  de.ith.     In  this  vicinity  dwelt  tlu'  two  (Sr-at  Brothers,  Oloos- 

\i>  and  Malsunsis,  of  unknown  orijrin  and  invincible  power.     tJlooscap  knew  that 

is  Itrotlu^r  was  vulnerable  only  by  tiie  touch  of  a  fern-root  ;  and  he  had  told  Mal- 

jiisis  (falsely)  that  tlie  stroke  of  an  owl's  featlier  would  kill  iiini.     It  came  to  pass 

y.it  Malsunsis  dctenniiuMl  to  kill  his  brotlier  ( .vhetlicr  temp  ed  thus  by  Mik-o,  the 

/luirrel,  or  by  Quiih-bcet-e-sis,  the  son  of  the  (Jreat  IJeaver,  or  by  his  own  evil  ani- 

lirion) :  wherefore  with  his  arrow  he  shot  Koo-koo-skoos,  the  Owl,  and  with  one  of 

iis  feathers  struik  the  sleeping  Glooscap.     Then  he  awoke,  and  n'proaehed  Malsun- 

liut  afterwards  told  him  t  lat  a  blow  from  the  root  of  a  pitie  would  kill  him. 

fhen  the  traitorous  man  led  his  brother  on  a  hunting  excursion  far  into  the  forest, 

_d  vhile  he  slept  he  .smote  him  with  a  pine-root.     But  the  cautious  (Jlooscap  arose 

rnharmed,  and  drove  Malsunsis  forth  into  the  forest;  then  sat  down  by  the  brook- 

|de  and  said  to  himself,  "  Naught  but  a  Howcring  riisli  can  kill  me.'''     Muscjuash, 

le  Heaver,  hidden  among  the  sedge,  hcanl  tliese  words  and  reported  them  to  Mal- 

jnsis,  who  promised  to  do  untt)  him  even  a<  he  should  ask.     Therefore  did  Mus- 

Inash  say,  '*  Give  unto  me  wings  like  a  pigeon."     But  the  warrior  answered,  "  Get 

tee  hence,  thou  with  a  tail  like  a  file  ;  what  need  liast  thou  of  pigeon's  wings  f " 

id  went  on  his  way.     Then  tlu'i  Beaver  was  angry,  and  went  fortli  unto  the  camp 

(liooscap,  to  whom  he  told  what  he  htid  done.     And  by  rea.sou  of  the.se  tiding.s, 

liooscap  arose  and  took  a  root  of  fern  and  sought  Malsunsis  in  the  wid(>and  gloomy 

Brest:  and  when  he  had  found  him  he  smote  him  so  that  he  fell  down  dead.     "  And 

liooscap  sang  a  .song  over  him  and  lamented.'' 

Now,  therefon?,  (iloo-^cap  ruled  all  beasts  and  men.     And  there  came  unto  him 

iree  brotliers  .seeking  that  h«i  would  give  them  great  strength  and  long  life  and 

nich  stjiture.     Then  asked  he  of  them  whether  they  wished  the.se  things  that  they 

liiglit  benetit  and  coun.^el  men  and  be  glori<»us  iu  battle.     But  they  sai(l,  "  No;  wo 

eek  ni>t  the  good-of  men,  nor  care  we  for  others."'     Then  he  offered  unto  them  suc- 

I'ss  in  battle,  knowledge;  and  skill  in  disea.ses,  or  wi.><doin  and  subtlety  in  counsel. 

Jut  they  would  not  hearken  unto  him.     Therefore  did  (ilooscap  wax  angry,  and 

laid:  "Go  your  ways;  you  shill  have  strength  and  stature  and  length  of  days.'' 

Lnd  while  they  were  yet  in  the  way,  n'joieing,  "lo  I  their  feet  became  rooted  to  the 

tround,  and  their  legs  stuck  together,  and  their   necks  shot  up,  and  they  were 

turned  into  three  cedar-tn'cs,  strong  and  tall,  and  enduring  beyond  the  days  of  men, 

)ut  destitute  alike  of  all  glory  and  of  all  use." 

( »cc!isi()nal  glimpses  of  the  railway  are  obtained  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r. 
j|p  the  lar<^e  island  of  Kennelieeasis,  whieh  i.s  separated  from  the  Kingston 

)eninsnla  by  the  Milkish  Channel.     Then  the  shores  of  I.and's  Knd  are 

)assed  on  the  r. ;  and  on  the  1.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Nerepis  IJiver.  At 
kills  j)oint  the  low  (but  rooky  and  alpine)  ridge  of  the  Ntnj)i'i  Hills  crosses 
^he  river,  running  N.  K.  to   Bull   Moose   Hill,  near  the  head  of  Belleisle 

Jay. 
The  steamer  now  ehanges  her  course  from  N.  \V.  to  N.  K  ,  and  enters  the 

!<ong  Reaoh,  a  i)road  and  straight  expanse  of  the  river,  16  M.  long  sind 
-3  M.  wide.     The  shores  are  high  and  l)old,  and  the  scenery  has  a  lake- 
like  character.     Heyonc'  the  handets  of  Westfieid  and  Cireeinvich  Hill,  on 
ihe  1.  bank,  is  the  rugged  mid  forest-covered  ridge  known  as  the  Dtvil's 
V  ick\  an  oll-sj)ur  of  the  ndjior  Alleghany  chaiti  over  tin;  Nerepis  Valley. 

kbreast  of  the  wooded  Foster's  Islnnd,  on  the  K.  shore,  is  a  small  ham- 
let clustered  about  a  tall-spired  church.  Caton's  Island  is  just  above;  Fos- 
ie»''s,  Mud  in  on  the  W.  shore  is  seen  the  pretty  little  village  of  Oak  Puint 

ILiu-ey's  inn),  ^vitli  a  lighthouse  and  the  spire  of  the  Kpiscopiil  church  of 

>t.  I'aul.     Farther  up  is  the  insulated  intervale  of  Gras.sy  Island,  ftunouf 


■. 


■I  ii 


!!• 


il 


42       Route  8. 


BELLEISLE  BAY. 


for  its  rich  hay,  which  may  be  seen  in  autumn  stacked  all  along  the  shore. 
The  steamer  now  passes  through  the  contracted  channel  off  Mistaken! 
Point,  where  the  river  is  nearly  closed  by  two  narrow  peninsulas  whichj 
project  towards  each  other  from  the  opposite  shores. 

Belleisle  Bay  turns  to  the  N.  E.  just  above  Mistaken  Point.    The  estuary  IrI 
nearly  hid(hMi  by  a  low  island  and  by  a  rounded  promontory  on  ther.,  beyond  which] 
the  bay  oxtonds  to  the  N.  E  for  12  -  14  M. ,  with  a  unifonii  width  of  1  M.     It  is  navi- 
g.vble  for  the  larf^est  vessels,  and  is  bordered  by  wooded  hills.     On  the  S.  shore  nenrl 
the  mouth  is  Kingston  Creek,  whi<-h  leads  S.  in  about  5  M.  to  Kiiiieston  <two| 
inns),  a  sequestered  village  of  20()  inhabitants,  roniuntirally  situated  among  the  .lillsl 
in  the  centn;  of  the  i)enin8utnr  parish  of  Kingston.     This  peninsula  preserves  an 
almost  uniform  widtli  of  5-  0  M.  for  3<(  M  ,  between  the  Kennebeca-sis  Bay  and  river 
on  the  S.  E.  and  the  Long  Reach  and  Hellcisle  Hay  on  the  N.  W      The  scenery, 
though  never  on  a  grand  scale,  is  plea.>^int  and  bold,  and  has  many  fine  water  views. 
A  few  miles  E.  of  Kingston  is  the  ren)arkable  l:ik«'let  called  the  Picktvaakeft,  occu-j 
pying  an  extinct  crater  and  surrounded  by  volcanic  rocks.     This  district  was  origi- 
nally settled  by  American  Loyalist*),  and  for  many  years  Kingston  was  the  capital  of| 
Kings  County.     The  village  is  most  easily  reached  from  Rothesay  (see  page  22). 

Tennanfs  Cove  is  a  small  Baptist  village  at  the  N.  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay  ;| 
whence  a  road  leads  in  5  M.  to  the  hamlet  of  Helleisle  Bay  on  the  N.  shore  (nearly  . 
oppcsite  Long  Point  village) ;  from  which  the  bay  road  runs  in  3-4  M.  to  the  larger) 
Baptist  settlement  at  Spragg's  Point,  whence  much  cord-wood  is  sent  to  J*t  .lohn.  1 
4  M.  l)eyond  is  Springjiflc/  (small  inn),  the  largest  of  the  Belleisle  villages,  situated! 
near  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  7  M.  from  Norton,  on  the  intercolonial  Railway  I 
(Route  16). 

At  the  head  of  the  Long  Reach  a  granite  ridge  turns  the  river  to  the  N. 
and  N.  W.  and  narrows  it  for  several  miles.  4-6  M.  above  Belleisle  Bay 
Spoon  Island  is  passed,  above  which,  on  the  r.  bank,  is  the  shipbuilding 
hamlet  of  Wickham.  A  short  distance  beyond,  on  the  W.  bank,  is  Ilamp- 
stead,  with  several  mills  and  a  granite-quarry.  The  shores  of  the  river 
now  become  more  low  and  level,  and  the  fertile  meadows  of  Long  Island 
are  coasted  for  nearly  6  M.  This  pretty  island  is  dotted  with  ehn-trees, 
and  contains  two  large  ponds.  On  the  mainland  (W.  shore),  near  its  head, 
is  the  hamlet  of  Otnnbof/,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  whicli  empties  into  a  lake 
3  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  connected  with  the  St.  John  by  a  narrow 
passage.  The  boat  next  passes  the  Lower  Musquash  Island,  containing  a 
large  pond,  and  hiding  the  outlet  of  the  Wnshademoak  Lake  (see  Route  9). 

*'  This  part  of  the  Province,  including  the  lands  around  the  Grand  I^nke  and  along 
the  Washademoak,  must  become  a  very  populous  and  rich  country.  A  great  propor- 
tion of  the  land  is  intervale  or  alluvial,  and  coal  is  found  in  great  plenty,  near  the 

Grand  Lake No  part,  of  America  can  exhibit  greater  beauty  or  more  luxuriant 

fertility  than  the  lands  on  each  side,  and  the  islands  that  we  pass  in  this  distance." 
(McGregor's  British  America.) 

After  passing  the  Upper  Musciuash  Island,  the  steauiboat  rounds  in  at 
Gagetoum  (2  inns),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants,  prettily  situated  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  river.  It  is  the  shire-town  of  Queen's  County,  and  is  the  shipping- 
point  for  a  broad  tract  of  furniing-country.  After  leaving  this  point,  the 
steamer  passes  between  Grimross  Neck  (1.)  and  the  level  shores  of  Cam- 
bridge (r.),  and  runs  by  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  Kiver. 

About  the  year  l')40  the  French  seigneur  erected  at  t'le  mouth  of  the  JemBcg  a 
fbrt,  CD  whose  ramparts  were  12  iron  guns  and  6  "  murtherers."    It  was  prurided 


MAUGERVILLE. 


Route  8.       43 


ith  a  court  of  guard ,  stone  barracks  and  magaaines,  a  garden,  and  a  chapel ' '  6  paces 
juare  with  a  bell  weighing  18  pounds."  In  1654  it  was  captured  by  an  expedition 
*nt  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell ;  but  was  yielded  up  by  Sir  Thomas  Temple  to  the 
eigncur  de  Soulangcs  et  Marson  in  1670.  In  1674  it  was  taken  and  plundered  by 
a  Flemish  corsair."  The  Seiguiory  of  .leniseg  wiis  granted  by  the  French  Orown  to 
Lhe  ancient  Breton  fsimily  of  Damour  des  ClialTour.  In  1686  it  was  ot'cupied  by  the 
bijjnoriiil  family,  and  in  1(598  there  were  i>0  per.«ona  settled  here  under  its  auspices. 
In  1739  the  lord.ship  of  this  district  was  held  by  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuil,  who  had 
[l6  colonists  in  the  domain  of  .lemseg.  In  1692  it  was  made  the  capital  of  Acadia, 
inder  the  command  of  M.  de  Villebou  ;  and  after  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
nent  to  Fort  Nashwajik  (Fredericton),  the  .Femsc'g  fort  suffer<>d  the  vicissitudes  of 
Jritish  attack, and  was  finally  abandoned.  About  the  year  1776,  600  Indian  warriors 
ithered  here,  (b^signing  to  devastate  the  St.  John  valley,  but  were  deterred  by  the 
Bsolute  front  made  by  the  colonists  from  the  Oromoc to  fort,  and  were  finally  ap- 
eased  and  quieted  by  large  presents. 

The  Jemseg  River  is  the  outlet  of  Grand  Lake  (see  Route  10).  Beyond 
Ihls  point  the  steamer  runs  N.  W.  by  Grimross  Island,  and  soon  passes  the 
latnlets  of  Canning  (r.)  and  Upper  Gagetown  (1.).   Above  Manger's  Island 

seen  the  tall  spire  of  Barton  church,  and  the  boat  calls  at  Sheffield^  the 

;at  of  the  Shellield  Academy. 

**  The  whole  river-front  of  the  parishes  of  Maugervillc,  Sheffield,  and  Water- 
)rough,an  extent  of  nearly  30  M.,  is  a  remarkably  fine  alluvial  soil,  exactly  re- 
embiing  that  of  BattersiNi  fields  and  tiie  Twickenham  meadows,  stretching  from  the 
iver  generally  about  2  M.  This  tract  of  intervale,  ip.clndi.ig  the  three  noble  islands 
>pposite,  is  deserveclly  called  ti»e  (Jarden  of  New  Brunswick,  and  it  is  by  far  the 
Host  considerable  tract  of  alluvial  soil,  formed  by  fresh  water,  in  the  Province." 

Above  Sheffield  the  steamer  passes  Middle  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long, 
ind  produces  much  luiy,  and  calls  at  Maut/ennlle,  a  quiet  lowland  village 
3f  300  inhabitants.  On  the  oj)posite  shore  is  Oroiiwcto  (two  inns),  the 
capital  of  Sunbury  County,  a  village  of  400  inhabitants,  engaged  in  ship- 

Ibuilding.     It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto  River,  which  is  navigable 

Ifor  22  M. 

The  settlement  of  Maugerville  was  the  first  which  was  formed  by  the  English  on 
|the  St.  John  River.  It  was  established  in  1763  by  families  from  Massachu.-i;tU  and 
Connecticut,  and  had  over  100  families  in  1775.  In  May,  1776,  the  inhabit^mts  of 
Junbury  County  assembled  at  .Maugerville,  and  resolved  that  the  colonial  policy  of 
the  British  Parliament  was  wrong,  tiiat  the  United  Provinces  were  justified  in  re- 
listing it,  that  the  county  should  be  attached  to  Massachusetts,  and  that  men  and 
aioney  should  be  rai.sed  for  the  American  service  :  s<'iying  also,  "  we  are  lleatly  with 
)ur  Lives  and  fortunes  to  Share  with  them  the  Event  of  the  present  Struggle  for 
jiWrty,  however  (Jod  In  his  Provid;*nce  may  order  it."  These  resolutions  were 
Rigiied  by  all  but  12  of  the  people  ;  and  Massachusetts  soon  sent  them  a  quantity  of 
inuuuiiition.  At  a  later  day  Col.  Eddy,  with  a  detachment  of  Mass.  troops,  a.scended 
the  St.  John  Kiver  to  Maugerville,  where  he  met  with  a  warm  welcome  and  was 
[joined  by  nearly  50  men. 

OroiiuK'to  was  in  early  days  a  fivorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  one  of  whose  great 

cemeteries  has  re<'ently  been  found  here      U'hen  the  hostile  tribes  conceutratt-d  on 

Jtlio  Jeiii!<eg  during  the  Revohitionary  War,  and  \\vvv>  pre^pariug  to  devastate  the 

river-towns,  the  colonists  erected  a  large  fortittcatioa  near  t  lie  month  of  t'.ic  Oromocto, 

iiid  took  refuge  there.     Ttiey  made  ^uch  a  bold  front  that  the  Indians  retired  and 

lisbunlcd,  after  having  reconnoitred  the  works. 

"  The  rich  meadows  are  decorated  witli  stately  elms  and  forest  tn>es,  or  sheltered 

Iby  low  coppices  of  cranberry,  alder,  and  other  native  bu  ^hcs.     Through  the  nunier- 

lous  opfiiiugs  in  the  shrub!)ery,  the  visitor,  in  traversing  the  river,  sees  the  white 

Ifronts  of  the  cottagi's,  anrl  other  buildings;  and,  from  the  constJint  change  of  posl- 

Ition,  in  sailing,  an  almost  endless  variety  of  scenery  is  pn'sented  to  the  tmvtller's 

[rye.    During  the  summer  season  the  surface  of  the  water  affords  an  interesting 


i    t    ' 


it.iin 


'nil 


V'    I 


44     Route  8. 


FREDERICTON. 


■■t 


spectacle.     Vast  rafts  of  timber  and  loi^  are  plowly  moved  downwards  by  the  cur- 
niiit.   Numerous  catJoe.s  and  boats  are  in  motion,  whilu  the  paddles  of  the  steamboat  I 
break  the  polished  surface  of  the  stream  and  peiid  it  rippling  to  the  shore      In 
the  midst  of  tins  laud.-cape  stands  Frederictoii,  sitUHtcd  on  an  obtuse  level  point 
formed  by  the  bending  of  the  river,  and  in  tin-  midst  uf  nuturul  and  cultivated  | 
scenery."    (Gesner.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels.  —  Queen  Hotel;  Barker  House,  Queen    St.  ,$  2.50  a  day. 
St ,  8F  1.60  a  day  ;  l^ong's  Hotel,  .is  1.50  ;  ConinierciHl  Hotel,  and  otherb. 

Staices  leave  tri-weekly  for  Woodstock  {i)2  M. ;  tare,  8? 2,50). 

Kailwa>s. —  to  St.  John,  in  (iC  M.,  fare  $2. 

to  Woodstock  (63  M.),  Aroostook.  Eduiuudston  (176  M  ),  and  Riviere  du 
Loup.     Fare  to  Woodstock,  Jjji'i.OO  (paiie  50).  Canada  Eastern    Kail  way,  to 

Chatham  (116  M.),  see  page  47.     The  railway  briJge  over  the  St.  Jonn  (finished  in 
1888)  made  possible  a  union  sUition  at  Fredericton. 

Stpaml>«»at».  —  Daily  to  Sf  .Ic)hn.  stopping  at  the  river-ports.  Fare.  .*  1  00. 
In  flpring, early  summer,  and  autumn,  when  the  river  has  enough  water,  the  steam- 
boat  Florenceville  runs  from  Frederictoii  ()O-70  M.  N.  W.  to  Woodstock. 

Frkdehicton,  tlie  capital  of  the  iVovince  of  N-.-w  Hruiiswick,  i.s  a  small 
cit}''  pleasantly  situated  on  a  level  j)lain  near  the  St.  ,Ioim  Kiver.  It 
has  6,500  inhabitants,  with  live  newspapers  and  four  banks.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  quietest  place,  of  its  size,  north  of  the  Potomac  River.  Tin; 
streets  are  broad  and  airy,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  arej 
lined  with  line  old  shade  trees.  The  city  has  few  manufacturing  interests, 
but  serves  as  a  slii|)ping-point  and  depot  of  supplies  for  the  young  settle- 
ments to  the  N.  and  W.  Its  chief  reason  for  being  is  the  presence  of  the 
offices  of  tlie  Provincial  Government,  for  which  it  was  founded. 

Queen  St.  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  nearly  parallel 
with  the  river  At  its  W.  end  is  the  Government  House,  a  plain  and  spa- 
cious stone  building  situated  in  a  pleasant  park,  and  used  for  the  official 
residence  of  the  Lieiitenant-(iovernor  of  New  IJrunswick.  Nearly  in  the 
middle  of  the  city,  and  between  (^ueen  St.  and  the  river,  are  the  Military 
Grounds  and  Parade-ground,  with  the  large  barracks  (accommodating 
1,000  men),  which  were  formerly  the  headqiuirters  of  the  Hritish  army  in 
this  Province.  Near  the  E.  end  of  Queen  St.  is  the  Parliament  Buildim/, 
a.  handsome  modern  freestone  structure,  from  whose  top  a  fine  view  is 
obtained.  It  contains  the  spacious  halls  of  the  Low<'r  Ilotise,  Ltgislativo 
Council,  and  Snpreme  Court  (with  its  law  librrr}).  The  Legislative 
Library,  in  a  (ire-proof  building  adjacent,  c(mtains  i.'),000  vounnes,  includ- 
ing Louis  Philippe's  copy  of  .Ajidnbon's  "  liirds  "  (open  during  session, 
and  on  Wednesday  afternoons).  The  d'ief  wealth  of  i^'redericton  is  em- 
ployed in  hnnbering,  and  there  are  great  booms  above  and  below  the  city, 
with  an  important  Hritish  and  West-Indian  trade. 

*  Christ  Church  Cathedral  is  a  short  distance  bevond  the  Parliament 
IJuilding,  and  is  eml)owered  in  a  grove  of  tine  old  trees  near  the  river 
(corner  of  Church  and  (^ueeii  Sts.).  It  is  under  the  direct  care  of  the 
Anglicttii  Bishop  of  Fredericton,  and  its  style  of  construction  is  modelled 


I^MlL...^^ 


FREDERICTON. 


Roiiie  8.       45 


fter  a  certain  charming  old  parish-church  in  England.    The  beauty  of  the 

Eiif'lish  Gothic  architecture,  as  here  wrought  out  in  fine  gray  stone,  is 

lei<'htened  by  the  picturesque  effect  of  the  surrountling  trees.     A  stone 

)ire,  178  ft.  higii,  rises  from  the  junction  of  the  nave  and  transepts.    The 

iterior  is  beautiful,  though  small,  and  the  chancel  is  adorned  with  a 

luperb  window  of  Newcastle  stained-glass,  .presented   by  the  Episcopal 

Jiiurch  in  the  United  States.     It  represents,  in  the  centre,  Christ  cruci- 

Icd,  with  SS.  John,  James,  and  Peter  on  the  1.,  and  SS.  Thomas,  IMiilip, 

lind  Andrew  on  the  r.    In  the  cathedral  tower  is  a  chime  of  8  bells,  each 

[)f  which  bears  the  inscription  : 


"  Ave  Pater,  Rex,  Creator, 
Ave  Fili,  Lux,  Salvator, 
Ave  Spiritii8  Consolator, 
Ave  Beata  Unitas. 


Ave  Simplex,  Ave  Trine, 
Ave  Regnaiis  in  Sublime, 
Ave  Kt'sonct  sine  tine, 
Ave  Sancta  Tnnitas." 


St.  Ann's  is  a  pretty  Episcopal  Church,  at  the  W.  end;  and  in  1883  the 
Japtistis  and  Presbyterians  erected  line  stone  churches.  Between  (^ueen 
Jt.  and  the  river  arc  the  substantial  City  Hall  and  l^ost-Ofllce,  ai.d  the 
a'll-e([uipped  Normal  School,  where  the  teachiTs  of  the  Province  are 
trained. 

The  University  of  New  Brunswick  is  a  substantial  frt'estone  building,  170 
Ift.  long  and  GO  ft.  wide,  occupying  a  line  position  on  the  hills  which  sweep 
mmnd  the  city  on  the  S.  It  was  established  by  royal  iharter  in  1828, 
rhilc  Sir  Howard  Douglas  ruled  the  Province;  and  was  for  many  years  a 
Source  of  great  strife  between  the  Episcopalians  and  the  other  sects,  the 
fatter  making  objection  to  the  absorption  by  the  Anglicans  of  an  institu- 
tion which  had  been  paid  for  by  the  wlude  people.  It  is  fairly  end'  wed 
)y  the  i'rovincc,  and  does  an  important  work  in  carrying  on  the  higher 
education  of  the  country,  despite  the  comi)etition  of  ilenoniinational  col- 
gcs.     The  view  from  the  University  is  thus  described  by  Prof.  Johnston: 

"  From  the  high  ground  above  FreJoricton  I  again  felt  how  very  delightful  it  is  t^ 
L-ast  the  eyes,  weary  of  stony  Ijarrens  and  |»erpetual  pines,  upon  the  beautiful  rivcv 

5t  .'oliii Calm,  broad,  clear,  just  visibly-  Hosving  on  ;  full  to  its  banks,  and  re- 

Itctii)},'  from  its  surtiice  the  grmefui  Anienran  elms  which  at  intervals  fringe  its 
^liores,  it  lias  all  the  beauty  of  a  long  lake  without  its  lif(>lessne«is.  lint  its  acces- 
irifs  arc  as  yet  chicHy  those  of  nature,  —  wooded  ranges  of  hills  varied  in  outlii:c, 
low  rftiriiig  from  and  now  approaching  the  wat<'r's  edge,  with  an  fM<-;isi(>nal  cle-u- 
iig  and  a  nmf  white-washed  house,  with  its  srill  more  rarely  vi<iblr-  inhabitjmts. 

Mid  stray  cattle In  some  respects  this  view  of  the  St.  .John  recalled  to  my 

mind  some  of  the  points  on  the  Kussian  river  (Neva) :  though  among  Kuropeau 
kcciiery,  in  its  broad  waters  and  forests  of  pine^  it  most  reeiumblcd  the  turner  pur- 
pons  of  the  sea-arms  and  fiords  of  Sweden  and  Norway." 

7.  Mnrifs  and  Naslnntnhvs  arc  opposite  Erodericton,  on  the  1.  bank  <i 
|li<'  St.  John,  and  are  reached  by  bridges.  They  are  on  the  New  Hruns- 
ick  b'ailway  (to  Woodstock).  At  Marvsvillc  are  the  great  linnher-mills 
liid  cotton  mills  of  Alex.  Gibson,  with  the  stately  church  and  comfortable 
lonies  whicii  he  has  erected  Ibr  his  workmen.  Nearly  oppo^ite  the  citv 
|s  seen  the  nn)Uth  of  the  Nashwaak  IJiver.  whose  vallev  was  settled  bv 
lisbandcd  soldiers  of  the  (dd  Black  Watch  (4-Jd  Ilighlamiers). 


-.    i 

i 


•     ■ 


46       Route  8. 


FREDERICTON. 


In  the  year  1690  the  French  government  pent  out  the  Chevalier  de  Yillehon  at 
Governor  of  Acadia.     When  he  arrived  at  Port  Royal  (Annapolis),  his  capital,  he  I 
found  that  Sir  William  Phipps's  New-Eufjland  fleet  had  re<  ently  captured  and  de-| 
stroyed  its  fortifications,  ^o  he  ascendi'd  the  St  John  River  and  soon  fixed  his  capi- 
tal at  Nashwaak,  where  he  remained  for  several  years,  organizing  Indian  forays  on| 
the  settlements  of  Maine. 

In  Octol>er,  169(),  an  Anglo-American  army  ascended  the  St.  John  In  the  8hipg| 
Arundel,  Province,  and  otluTS,  and  laid  siege  to  Fort  Nashwatik.  The  Chevalier  de 
Villebon  drew  up  his  garrison,  and  mldresscd  them  with  enthusiasm,  and  the  de-l 
tachments  were  put  in  charge  of  the  Sieurs  de  la  Cote,  Tibicrge,  and  Clignancourt.l 
The  British  royal  standard  was  displayed  over  the  besiegers'  works,  and  for  thri'tl 
dajs  a  heavy  fire  of  artillery  and  musketry  was  kept  up.  The  precision  of  the  firel 
flrom  La  Cote's  battery  dismounted  the  hostile  guns,  and  after  seeing  the  Sieur  ilcl 
Felajse  reinforce  the  fort  from  Quebec,  the  British  gave  up  the  siege  and  rctreattd| 
down  the  river. 


I'  t 


The  village  of  St  Anne  wa«i  erected  here,  under  the  protection  of  Fort  Nashwaak. 
Its  site  had  been  visited  by  De  Monts  in  1(^(14,  during  his  exploration  of  the  river.l 
In  1757  (and  later)  the  place  was  crowded  with  Aoxlian  refugees  fleeing  from  the! 
stern  visitations  of  angry  New  Kngland  on  the  Minas  and  Poit  Royal  districts.  In! 
1784  came  the  exiled  American  Lo.vaiists,  who  dn)ve  away  the  Acadians  into  thel 
wilderness  of  Madawaska,  and  settled  along  these  shores.  During  the  foUowingl 
year  Gov.  Carleton  established  the  capital  of  the  Province  here,  in  view  of  tlie! 

central  location  and  plejisant  natunil  ft'atun's  of  the  place.  Since  the  formation  ofl 
the  Canadian  Dominion,  and  the  consequent  withdrawal  of  the  British  gairisonj 
Fredericton  has  become  dormant. 


Wm 


7  M.  above  Fredericton  is  Aukpnqne,  the  favorite  home-district  of  the  ancientl 
Indians  of  the  river.  The  name  signifies  "  a  beautiful  expanse  of  the  river  cau.'^edl 
by  numerous  islands."  On  the  island  of  Sandous  were  the  fortifications  and  quar-F 
ters  of  the  American  forces  in  1777,  wh(>n  the  St  John  River  was  held  by  the  expe-l 
dition  of  Col.  Allan.  Tliey  reacli  *d  \ukpacju(!  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  saluted  thel 
new  American  flag  with  salvos  of  intillery,  while  the  resident  Indians,  under  Am-| 
brose  St.  Aubin,  their  "august  and  noble  chief,"  welcomed  them  and  their  cause. 
They  patrolled  the  river  with  guard-boats,  aided  the  i)atriot  re.'>idents  on  the  banks] 
and  watched  the  mouth  of  St.  John  harbor.  After  the  camp  on  Aukp^ique  had! 
been  established  about  a  month  it  was  l)ioken  up  by  a  British  naval  force  froml 
below,  and  Col.  Allan  led  away  about  5(X)  people,  patriot  Provincials,  Indians,  andl 
their  families.  This  great  exo<lus  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  yet  least  knownl 
incidents  of  the  American  borders.  It  was  conducted  by  canoes  up  the  St.  John  tol 
the  ancient  French  trading-jmst  called  Fort  Meductic,  whence  they  carried  thoirl 
boats,  families,  and  household  goods  across  a  long  portage  ;  then  they  ascended  tliel 
rapid  Eel  River  to  its  reservoir-lake,  from  whose  head  another  portage  of  4  M.  ledl 
them  to  North  Pond.  The  long  procession  of  exiles  next  defiled  into  the  Grandl 
Lake  and  encamped  for  several  days  at  its  outlet,  after  which  they  descended  thel 
Chiputneticook  Lake  and  the  St.  Croix  River,  passed  into  the  Lower  Sc*-  )odic  fiakel 
and  thence  carried  their  families  and  goo<ls  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Machias  Rivcrj 
Floating  down  that  stream,  they  reached  Machias  i  in  time  to  aid  in  beating  off  tbe| 
British  squadron  from  that  town. 


!!t 


1  Mnchiaf  is  unirt  to  be  derived  from  the  French  word  Mngn  (meaninir  the  Magi  ,  and  it| 
ia  held  that  it  was  discovered  t)y  the  ancient  French  uxplurers  un  the  Feativul  of  the  Magi. 


WASHADEMOAK  LAKE. 


Houte  9.      47 


From  Fredericton  to  the  Mlramichi. 

IBv  the  Canada  Eastern  Railway. 

Istationn.  —  (Jibson  (Fredericton)  to  Mnryaville,  3  M. ;   Durham,  14;   Cro08 

reek,  25;  KoiePtown ,  47 ;  Doaktowu,  63;  Bli88field,  67;  Blackville,  87 ;  Chatham 

inctiou,  106;  Chatham,  116. 

I  This  route  traverses  the  lonely  forest  for  many  leagues,  through  a  thinly 
tiled  country.  To  the  west  are  the  immense  domains 

the  New  Brunswick  Land  Company,  on  which  a  few  struggling  settle- 
ments are  located.     In  the  earlier  days  there  was  a  much-travelled  route 
;t\veen  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  Miramichi  waters,  by  way  of  the 
jfashwaak  River,  from  whose  upper  waters  a  portage  was  made  to  tho 
Ijacent  streams  of  the  Miramichi  (see  "  Vacation  Tourists,"  for  1862-3, 
).  464-474).    Forty-seven  miles  from  Fredericton  the  line  reaches  Boies' 
^wn  (small  inn),  a  lumbering-village  of  250  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  W* 
liramichi  River.     This  place  was  founded  in  1822,  by  Thomas  Boies  and 
JO  Americans,  but  has  become  decadent  si;-ce  the  partial  exhaustion  of 
le  forests. 

9.  Washademoak  Lake. 

....Vo"*"  o^-Tsion"'!'-  rnn  from  St.  John  to  this  point,  a  distance  of  60  M.    A 
jular  line  formerly  plied  on  this  route,  but  it  was  given  up  some  years  sinoe. 
[Ill  1:90  HtuiimcTd  ran  from  St.  Johu  to  Cole's  Isluud  thrice  a  we«-k. 


The  steamboat  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  to  the  upper 
id  of  Long  Island,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.  in  a  narrow  passage  be- 
reen  the  Lower  Musquash  Island  and  the  shores  of  Wickham.     On  either 
le  are  wide  rich  intervales,  over  which  the  spring  inundations  spread 
Utilizing  soil;  and  the  otherwise  monotonous  landscape  is  enlivened  by 
[usters  of  elms  and  maples.     After  following  this  passage  for  1^  M.,  the 
jumor  enters  the  Washademoak  Lake,  at  this  point  nearly  2  M.  wide. 
le  Washademoak  is  not  properly  a  lake,  but  is  the  broadening  of  the 
mr  of  the  same  name,  which  maintains  a  width  of  from  ^  M.  to  2  M. 
)m  Cole's  Island  to  its  mouth,  a  distance  of  25-30  M.     It  is  deep  and 
|ill,  iind  has  but  little  current.     In  the  spring-time  and  autumn  rafts  de- 
fend the  lake  from  the  upper  rivers  and  from  the  head-waters  of  the 
)C!igne,  and  pass  down  to  St.  .lohn.     The  scenery  is  rather  tame,  being 
^at  of  alluvial  lowlands,  diversified  only  bv  scattered  trees.     There  are 
'inall  hamlets  on  the  shores,  with  from  150  to  250  inhabitants  each, 
kost  of  them  being  on  the  E.  shore.     The  people  are  engaged  in  farming 
bd  in  freighting  cord-wood  to  St.  John.     About  6  M.  above  McDonald's 
|oint,  Lewis  Cove  opens  to  the  S.  E.,  ruiniing  down  for  about  3  M.  into  the 
Irish  of  Wickham;  and  4-6  M.  farther  on  are  the  Narrows^  where  the 
^kc  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  a  bold  bluff  projecting  from  the  E.  shore. 
mcs  Island  has  about  200  inhabitants,  and  a  small  hotel.     It  is  20  M. 


I 


'M 


I  ;; 

■'1 

.1!    ■     i 


I 


II  li 


n 


li!!i! 


I  i 


48      Itoute  10. 


GRAND  LAKE. 


from  Apohaqui,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  Roads  run  across  the  pJ 
in"n3ula  on  the  N.  W.  to  Grand  Lake  in  5-7  M.  It  is  38  M.  from  Cokl 
Island  to  Petitcodiac,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  by  way  of  Brook vali 
'J'he  Forks,  and  New  Canaan.  The  Washadeinoak  region  has  no  attra] 
tions  for  the  summer  tourist, 

10.   Grand  Lake. 

The  river-steamer  leaves  St.  John  (Tndiantown)  on  Wodnosday  and  SatiiJ 

day,  f-ir  Gr<nd  Lake  and  Salmon  River.     The  distance  is  85  M. ;  the  fare  Is  5P1.1 
She  leaves  Salmon  Itivt-r  on  Mo  day  ami  Thiirf*day  mornings. 

A  railway  runs  from  Norton,  on  the  Intercolonial  line,  to  Grand  Lake. 

Grand  Lake  is  30  M.  lonj;  and  from  3  to  9  M.  wide.  It  has  a  tide  ofl 
inches,  caused  by  the  backwater  of  the  St.  John  River,  thrown  up  by  tli| 
high  tides  of  the  Bay  of  I'un 'y.  The  shores  are  low  and  uninterestinj: 
and  are  broken  by  se  ■  ;i!  ;,)  coves  and  estuaries.  There  are  numeroui 
hamlets  on  each  sidb,  '.li  Wn  "  are  all  small  and  have  an  air  of  povertY| 
It  is  reasonably  hoped,  ;  vti.  that  these  broad  alluvial  plains  will  b 
come,  in  a  few  decades,  the  home  m  a  large  and  prosperous  j)opulation. 

The  lands  in  this  vicinity  were  granted  at  an  early  date  to  the  Sieur  de  Frtncti>^p| 
a  young  Parisian,  the  son  of  thnt  Sirur  de  (Mignanrourt  who  was  so  active  in  settlini 
the  St.  John  valley  and  in  ddcndirg  it  .•■pnnst  the  New-Englanders.     On  Charlj 
Toix's  map  (dated  1744)  Grand  Luke  is  called  l.nr  Freufiist  ,and  a  village  of  the  t^anHj 
name  is  indicated  as  being  a  lew  miles  to  the  N.     These  shores  wer»>  a  favorite  caiiif 
ing-ground  of  the  ancient  Milicct*'  Indians,  whose  descendants  occasionally  \\-\t 
Grand  Lake  in  pursuit  of  nlu^krat8.     The  luml)er  business,  always  baneful  to  tiiij 
Bgricultural  interests  of  a  new  country,  has  slackened  on  account  of  the  exhaustidtj 
of  the  forests  on  the  Salmon  Kivcr  :  and  it  is  i.ow  thought  that  a  farming  populatim 
will  erelong  occupy  the  Grand  Lake  country. 

Tlie  steamer  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  ns  far  as  G(vji.\ 
town,  where  it  makes  a  brief  stop  (other  landings  on  the  lower  river  iirej 
sometimes  visited).     She  then  crosses  to  the  mouth  of  the  Jomseg  (soej 
page  43),  where  the  Jemseg  River  is  entered,  and  is  followed  through  its 
narrow,  tortuous,  and  picturesque  course  of  4  M.     This  is  the  most  interj 
esting  part  of  the  journey.     Wiien  nearly  through  the  passage  the  Vxm 
stops  before  the  compact  hamlet  of  Jemseg,  occupying  the  slope  of  a  liiP' 
on  the  r.     On  entering  the  lake,  a  broad  expanse  of  still  water  is  seen  inl 
front,  with  low  and  level  shores  demuled  of  trees.     On  the  1.  is  Scot<li-\ 
loam  (150  inliabitauts),  near  which  is  a  chamicl  cut  throtigh  the  alluviuinJ 
leading  (in  2  M.)  to  Maqun/tit  Ldke,  which  is  6  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wiilcl 
This  channel  is  called  ^//e  ThoroiKjhfare ;  is  j)ass!il)le  by  large  boats;  iiiiil 
leads  through  groves  of  chn,  birch,  and  miii)le  trees.     1  M.  from  the  \V,| 
end  of  Miupiaj)!!  Lake  is  French  Lake,  accessible  by  another  "  Thoroupli- 
fisre,"  and  8-4  M.  long,  nearly  divided  by  a  long,  low  point.    This  lake  isl 
6-0  M.  from  Sheffield,  on  the  St.  Joim  River. 

The  channel  is  marked  out  by  poles  rising  from  the  flats  on  either  si(l(\| 
(The  course  of  the  steamer  is  liable  to  variation,  and  is  here  described  .^ 
followed  by  the  Kditor. )     Robinson's  Point  is  first  visited,  witli  its  wlii.el 


lOL^ 


«i 


GRAND   LAKE. 


Route  11. 


49 


Hithoiipe  rising  from  the  E.  sho-e ;  and  the  steamer  passes  around  into 
Jhitc'^  Cnre^   wliere  there  is  a  farming  settlement  of  200  inhabitants, 
icnce  the  hike  is  crossed  to  tlie  X.  to  Kci/hoh',  a  curious  little  harbor 
|;ir  tlH>  vilhiges  of  Mnqnapit  and  Douglas  Harbor.     After  visiting  Mill 
)ve  :ind  Wiggin's  Cove,  on  the  K.  shore,  and  Young's  Cove  (2  inn»),  the 
l;ir  rounds  Cumberland  Point  and  ascends  the  deep  Cumhivland  Biy,  at 
-('  liesid  is  a  populous  farming  settlement.     On  the  way  out  of  the  bay 
)x's  Point  is  visited,  and  then  the  narrowing  waters  at  the  head  of  the 
Ike  ;u'e  entered.     At  Xetrcnstle  and  other  points  in  thi-;  vicinity,  attempts 
ive  l)een  made  at  coal-mining.     The  coal  district  al)out  the  head  of  Grand 
ike  covers  an  area  of  40  scpiare  miles,  a»id  the  coal  is  said  to  be  of  good 
i:dity  and  in  thick  seams.     Rut  little  has  yet  been  done  in  the  way  of 
filling,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  transporting  the  coal  to  market. 
Soon  after  passing  Newcastle  Creek  the  steamer  ascends  the  N.  E.  arm, 
|)unds  a  long,  low  point,  and  enters  the  Salmon  Kiver.    This  stream  is 
tended  for  several  miles,  amid  (he  depressing  intluences  of  ruined  for- 
ts not  yet  replaced  by  farms.     IJeyond  Ironbound  Cove  and  tlie  C""il 
[ines,  the  boat  ties  up  for  the  night  at  a  backwoods  settlement,  where     ie 
iveller  nnist  go  ashore  and  slecj)  in  a  room  reserved  for  wayfarers  in  an 
ajaceiit  cottage. 

\Brii!;s:'s  Corner  is  at  the  head  of  navigation ,  and  a  road  runs  thonce  N  E.  acv  ss 
If  wililcrncss  to  Ilichibucto,  in  r>0-(iO  M.  It  is  stated  by  good  autljority  thtt  the 
fhina  in  the  Sahnon  llivor  h;is  been  ruined  by  the  luini)or-niills  ;  but  t  it  very 
<)(l  sjiort  maybe  found  on  the  Lake  Sti-eani,  15-20  M  beyond  IJrijjK's  irner. 
jlsitors  to  tliis  district  must  be  provided  witii  full  camp-equipage      A  road  also 

(Is  N.  \V.  from  Brigg's  Corner  (diverging  from  the  llicliibucto  road  at  Oasporeau) 

Ris.sville,  on  the  S.  VV.  Mirauiichi,  iu  about  40  M. 

11,   Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 


[stations. —  Gibson  ;  St  Mary's,  1  M  ;  Douglas,  3;  Springhill,  5|;  Rockland, 
:  Keswick,  12;  Cardigan,  16^;  I>awrence,  I7i  ;  Zealand,  20;  Stoneridge,  22J ; 
irnside,  25  ;  Upper  Keswick,  28i  :  Burt  Lake,  32  ;  IIayne8ville,36i  ;  Millville,  38i  ; 

laok:iwic,  43;  Kalis  Brook,  48;  Woodstock  .Junction,  52;  Newl)urgh,  57;  Uiver- 

|df,  (10;  Northampton,  rdj.     Fare  from  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  .5  1.75. 
IW(wid  Woodstock  .Tunction  the  Railway  runs  N.   to  Ilartland 

ll  M.  from  Fredericton)  and  to  Floreuceville  (71  M.),  and  thence  to  Tobique  and 

iv  upper  St.  John  valley. 

The  traveller  crosses  the  St.  John    River  by  the  new   railway  bridge 
Idiu  Fredericton  to  St.  Marv'.s.     As  the  train  moves  out,  verv  attractive 
•  D 


»s 


iii3i 


r,0     Route  11.     FllEDERICTON  TO  WOODSTOCK. 

glimpses  of  Fredericton  are  obtained  on  the  1.,  and  at  2  M.  out  the  Nas 
waaksis  River  is  crossed.      Tlien  the  train  advances  rapidly,  and  then 
follows  a  succession  of  beautiful  views  (to  the  1.)  over  the  wide  and  plncii 
St.  John,  dotted  with  numerous  large  and  level  islands,  upon  which  \\\ 
clusters  of  graceful  trees.     On  the  farther  shore  is  seen  the  village 
Springhill  {see  page  61)  ;  and  the  broad  expanse  of  Sugar  Island  cros 
the  river  a  little  way  above.     At  about  10  M.  from  P'redericton  the  liid 
changes  its  course  from  W.  to  N.  W.,  and  leaves  the  St.  John  vallcvl 
ascending  the  valley  of  the  Keswick,  —  a  district  which  is  beginning 
show  the  rewards  of  the  arduous  labors  of  its  early  pioneers.    The  Keswici 
Valley  was  settled  in  171^3,  by  the  disbanded  American-loyalist  corps  of  Ni'\| 
York  and  the  Royal  Guides,  and  their  descendants  are  now  attacking  tlifj 
remoter  back-country.    The  Keswick  flows  through  a  pleasant  region,  ai 
has  bold  features,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  escarped  wall  of  sandstone  oJ 
the  1.  bank,  reaching  for  8  -  10  M  from  its  mouth.    From  Cardigan  8tatioii| 
a  road  leads  into  the  old  Welsh  settlement  of  Cardifjnn. 

The  line  next  passes  several  stations  on  the  old  domain  of  the  New  Brunswirkl 
Land  Company,  an  association  which  wns  incorporated  by  royal  charter  before  184(J,[ 
and  I  urchased  from  the  Crown  550,0(K)  acres  in  York  County.  They  established! 
their  caj  ital  and  chief  agency  at  the  village  of  Stanley,  opened  roads  through  thel 
forest,  settled  a  large  coni|  any  of  peoj  le  froni  the  Isle  of  Skye  upon  their  lands,  and| 
exiended  $500,000  in  vain  attemi  ts  to  colonize  this  district. 

The  country  now  traversed  by  the  line  seems  desolate  and  unpromisingA 
and  but  few  signs  of  civilization  are  visible.  This  forest-land  is  left  be-l 
hind,  and  the  open  valley  of  the  St.  John  is  approached,  beyond  Neic-l 
burgh.  For  the  last  few  miles  of  the  journey  beautiful  views  are  given] 
from  the  high  grades  of  the  line,  including  the  river  and  its  intervales  an(i| 
surrounding  hills.  The  St.  John  River  is  crossed  by  a  long  wooden  rail- 
way bridge. 

WoodstosI:  (Wilbur  ffouse  ;  Exchanrje),  the  capital  of  Carletonl 

County,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Si.  John  and  Meduxnekea^'l 
Rivers,  in  the  centre  of  a  thriving  agricultural  district.     The  [lopulation  isj 
over  3,000,  and  the  town  is  favoral)ly  situated  on  a  high  bluff  above  the  St. 
John  River.     The  Episcopal  Church  of  St.  Luke  and  the  Catholic  Churclil 
of  St.  Gertrude  are  on  Main  St.,  where  are  also  the  chief  buildings  of  tlic 
town.      The  academy  called  Woodstock  College  is  located  here.     The 
country  in  this  vicinity  is  very  attractive  in  summer,  and  is  possessed  of  u 
rich  rural  beauty  which  is  uncommon  in  these  Provinces.    The  soil  is  n 
calcareous  loam,  producing  more  fruit  and  cereal  grains  than  any  other 
part  of  New  Brunswick.  The  bold  bluffs  over  the  St.  John  are  generally  well- 1 
wooded,  and  the  intervales  bear  much  hay  and  grain.    There  are  large  saw- 
mills at  the  mouth  of  the  Meduxnckeag,  where  the  timber  whicli  is  cut  on 
its  upper  waters,  in  Maine,  is  made  into  lumber.     12  M.  from  Woodstock 


WOODSTOCK. 


Route  IS.       51 


ipital  of  Carletf 


the  American  village  of  Houlton,  the  capital  of  Aroostook  County,  Maine ; 
id  the  citizens  of  the  tv^o  towns  are  in  such  close  so<*iiil  relations  that 
Woodstock  bears  great  resemblance  to  a  Yankee  town,  both  in  its  archi- 
Bcture  and  its  .society. 

"  Of  the  quality  of  the  Woodstock  iron  it  Is  impossible  to  spo  k  too  highly,  espe* 
liillv  for  makiij}?  steel,  and  it  \i*  eagerly  soiigiit  by  tlie  aniior-pliite  niuiiufarturerM  in 
Kni^land.  On  »ix  different  trials,  plates  of  W'oodstoi-k  iron  were  only  slightly  in- 
Jented  by  an  Armstrong  shot,  which  shattei-ed  to  pieties  scrap-iron  (dates  of  the  best 
jujility  and  of  similar  thickness.  When  cast  it  hiiH  a  fine  silver-gray  color,  is  singu- 
trly  close-grained,  and  rings  like  steel  on  being  struck.  A  cubic  Inch  of  Woiod- 
[took  ironweighs  22  percent  more  than  the  like  quantity  of  Swedish,  Kussian,  or 
tiist  Indian  iron."  (IloN.  Arthuk  Oordon.)  The  mines  are  some  di."*tance  from 
[lie  village,  an<l  their  products  were  uiucii  u^cd  lur  iite  Uriii.'^h  irun-clud  frigates, 
riitn  avo  now  abandoned 

Tilt'  Kailway  runs  S.  from  Woodstock  to  St.  .**tephen  and  St.  Andrews  (see 

Bag(;3t;);  fare,  .§2.90  ;  also,  S.  E.  to  Fredericton  ;  fare,  $  1  76. 

friiiis  run  N.  to  (irand  Falls  and  Rivii'>re  du  Loup,  and  W  to  Uoulton.  Steamers 
run  to  Fredericton  when  the  riyer  is  higli  enough. 

12.   Fredericton  to  Woodst:ck,  by  the  St  Jchn  River. 

During  the  spring  and  autumn,  when  there  is  enough  water  in  the  river,  this 
3Ut«'  is  served  by  steamboats  At  other  times  the  journey  may  be  made  by  the 
lail-stage.  The  distance  is  02  M.  ;  the  fare  is  !jB2.50.  The  stajre  is  uncovered,  and 
lence  is  undesirable  vui  a  means  of  conveyance  except  in  plea.sant  weather.  Mo.st 
travellers  will  prefer  to  pass  between  Fredericton  and  NV'oodstock  by  the  new  rail- 
way (see  Route  11).  The  stage  passes  up  the  S.  and  W  side  of  the  river.  The  en- 
suing itinerary  speaks  of  the  river-villiges  in  their  order  of  location,  without  refer- 
Bnce  to  the  stations  of  the  stages  and  steamboats. 

Distances.  —Fredericton  to  Springhiil,5  .M.  ;  Lower  FVench  Village,  9;  Brls- 
Itol  (Kingsdear),  16;  Lower  Prince  William,  21 ;  Prince  Wiili;im,  25  ;  Dumfries,  ^; 
Ipokiok  Falls,  ^ ;  Lower  Canterbury, 44  ;  Canterbury, 51 ;  Lower  Woodstock  ;  Wood- 
letock,  52. 

On  leaving  Fredericton,  pleasant  pro.'spects  of  the  city  and  its  Nash- 
hvnak  suburbs  are  aflforded,  and  successions  of  pretty  views  are  obtained 
[over  the  rich  alluvial  islands  which  fill  the  river  for  over  7  M.,  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Keswick  River.  Sprinyhill  (S.  shore)  is  the  first  village, 
and  has  about  250  inhabitants,  with  an  Episcopal  church  and  a  small  inn. 
The  prolific  intervales  of  Sugar  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.,  nearly  closing 
[the  estuary  of  the  Keswick,  and  the  road  passes  on  to  the  Indian  village, 
where  reside  25  families  of  the  Milicete  tribe.  A  short  distance  beyond 
is  the  Lower  French  Village  (McKinley's  inn),  inhabited  by  a  farming 
population  descended  from  the  old  Acadian  fugitives.  The  road  and  river 
now  run  to  the  S  W.,  through  the  rural  parish  of  Kingsdear,  which  was 
settled  in  1784  by  the  2d  Battalion  of  New  Jersey  Loyalists.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Bristol  (Kingsclear)  Burgoyne's  Ferry  is  reached,  and  the  scat- 
tered cottages  of  Lower  Queensbury  are  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  After 
crossing  Long's  Creek  the  road  and  river  turn  to  the  N.  W.,  and  soon 
reach  the  village  of  Lower  Prince  William  ( Wason's  inn).  9  M.  S.  W.  of 
this  point  is  a  settlement  amid  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Lake  George^ 
where  an  antimony-mine  is  being  worked ;  3  M.  beyond  which  is  Magundy 
(small  inn),  to  the  W.  of  Lake  George. 


:n    '■ 


i!  in 


.:'j 


III 


Hi 


52      /?0M<«  IS. 


FORT  MEDUCTIC. 


The  road  passes  on  to  Prince  William,  through  a  parish  which  ws 
originally  settled  by  tho  Kinji's  American  Dragoons,  and  is  now  occupie 
by  their  descendants.  On  the  N.  shore  are  the  hilly  uplands  of  the  pai> 
of  Queenshurv,  which  were  settled  by  the  disbanded  men  of  the  Qnecaj 
Rangers,  iifter  the  lievolutionary  War.  Kich  intervale  islands  are  seen  i 
the  river  between  these  parislics.  Heyond  Diimfrus  (small  hotel)  tl 
hamlet  of  Upper  (iueensbury  is  seen  on  the  N.  shore,  and  the  river  swecj 
around  a  broad  bend  at  whose  head  is  Pakiok',  with  large  lumber-millj 
3  M.  from  Allandale.  There  is  a  Mne  pit-c  e  of  scenery  here,  where  tliJ 
River  Pokiok  (an  Indian  word  meaning  "the  Dreadful  Place  "),  the  oui] 
let  of  Lake  George,  enters  the  St.  .lohn.  The  river  first  plunges  over  J 
perpendicular  fall  of  40  ft.  and  then  enters  a  fine  gorge,  1,200  ft.  long,  7^>  111 
deep,  and  26  ft.  wide,  cut  through  opjiosing  ledges  of  dark  rock,  linj 
Pokiok  bounds  down  this  chasm,  from  step  to  step,  until  it  reaches  tliel 
St.  John,  and  aflbrds  a  beautiful  sight  in  time  of  high  water,  althouf;h| 
its  current  is  often  encumbered  with  masses  of  rifV-rufl"  and  rubbish  froinl 
the  saw-mills  above.  The  gorge  should  be  inspected  from  below,  althoufilil 
it  cannot  be  ascended  along  the  bottom  on  account  of  the  velocity  of  thel 
contracted  stream.  About  4  M.  from  Pokiok  (and  nearer  to  Dumfries)  isj 
the  pretty  highland  water  of  I'rince  William  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M. 
in  diameter. 

LmKr  Citnti'vlninj  (inn)  is  about  5  M.  bej'ond  Pokiok,  and  is  near  the| 
mouth  of  the  Sheogomoc  River,  flowing  out  from  a  lake  of  the  same  name. 
At  Canterbury  {)Ao\V 9,  inn)  the  Eel  River  is  crossed;  and  about  6  M.  be-] 
yond,  the  road  passes  the  site  of  the  old  French  works  of  Furt  Meductic. 

This  fort  commantled  tho  portage  betwi-en  tlie  St.  John  and  tli«  route  by  the  upper] 
Eel  River  and  the  Kcl  hikI  North  Lukts  to  the  Chiputiulicook  Lakes  and  Pashaiim- 
quoddy  liay.     Portions  of  tliese  portages  are  marked  by  dttp  j»atli\vays  worn  in  tliel 
rocks  by  the  nioceasoiis  of  many  genemtlons  of  Indian  hunlers  and  warriors.     By  I 
this  route  marched  the  devastating  savage  trooiis  of  the  Chevalier  de  Villebon  t« 
many  a  merciless  foray  on  the  New  England  border.'-.     The  land  in  this  vicinity, 
and  the  lordship  of  the  Milicete  town  at  Meductic,  were  granted  in  1(184  to  tlie  {»ieur 
CllgnaiK  ourt,  the  bnive  I'arisian  who  aided  in  repelling  the  troops  oi"  Maj-sachuscttJ! 
fttim  the  fort  on  the  .Teniwg.     Here,  also,  the  Indians  were 

obliged  to  make  a  portage  around  the  Meductic  lljiinds.  and  the  command  of  this 
point  was  deemed  of  great  importance  and  value.    (See  also  the  account  of  AUau':*  | 
retreat,  on  page  46.) 

Otf  this  point  are  the  Meductic  Jiapids,  where  the  steamboats  sometimos 
find  it  difficult  to  make  headway  against  the  descending  waters,  accel- 
erated by  a  slight  incline.  The  road  now  runs  N.  through  the  y)leasinit 
valley  of  the  St.  John,  with  hill-ranges  on  either  side.  Lower  IVoodstork 
is  a  prosperous  settlement  of  about  600  inhabitants,  and  the  road  soon 
approaches  the  N.  B.  Railway  (see  page  37),  and  runs  between  that  line 
and  the  river. 

"  The  approach  to  Woodstock,  fVom  the  old  church  upwards,  Is  one  of  the  pleas, 
antest  drives  in  the  Province,  the  road  being  shaded  on  either  side  with  fine  trees, 
and  the  couifortable  farui-houses  and  garduns,  the  scattered  clumps  of  wood,  the 


FLOBENCEVILLt:. 


Jiuute  13' 


53 


irindiugB  of  t.he  great  vlver,  the  picturesque  kuoUn,  and  the  gay  ap|)carauce  of  th« 
kritty  HtraggUug  littlu  town,  all  giving  an  air  of  a  lung-settleil,  puaceful,  EnglUh 
JDokiug  country."    (Ooedon.) 

13.   Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  Riviere  da  Lonp. 

fl,^  Railway  runs  np  tlic  valley,  from  Wuodstoric  to 

jjdiimiKlston,  through  a  rather  pictureaquo  and  diversified  country,  with  charming 

fivcr-view8,  and  furniHhing  at!ceM  to  very  gootl  fl«liing-groundH.     Along  the  T6  M., 

rliere  tin*  St.  John  forms  the  international  boundary,  extending  from  2^  M.  above 

Irand  FuIIh  to  EdmundHton,  the  scenery  U  very  pleuttini;,  with  bold  hilld  enclooing 

ike-like  reaches  of  river,  graceful  islands,  iinil  fiir  meadows 

Stations.  —  Woodstock  to  L'piht  WoodsttH'k,  2  M.  ;  Newburgh  Junction,  0; 
llartlii.id,  ly;  Peel,  17;  Floreneeville,  2,'i;  Kent,  20;  Hath,  29;  Muniae,41;  l»ertU, 
l!» ;  Andover  (Toblque),  51  ;  Aroostook,  55  (branch  hence  to  Fort  Fairfield,  7  M.  ; 
K.  Lyndon,  14;  Caribou,  U> ;  l»resque  Isle,  34);  Grand  Falls,  73;  St.  Leouard't, 
B7;  Greon  River,  104;  St.  Basil,  107  ;  Edmundatou,  113. 

It  is  UO  M.  by  the  Teniiscoii.irrv  railway  (finished  in  1888)  from  Edmundston  to 
Ilivit're  du  Loup,  on  the  St    Lawrence. 

Tlu!  road  from  Woodt«tock  to  Florenceville  is  pleasunt  and  iu  au  attrac- 
It've  countf}'.  "It  is  rich,  English,  and  pretty.  When  I  say  English, 
I  ought,  perhaps,  rather  to  say  Scotch,  for  the  general  features  are  those 
of  the  lowland  parts  of  Perthshire,  though  the  luxuriant  vegetation  — 
I  tall  crops  of  uiai/e,  ripening  lields  of  golden  wheat,  and  line  well-grown 
'  hard-wood  —  speaks  of  a  more  southern  latitude.  Single  trees  and  dumps 
un;  here  left  about  the  lields  and  on  the  hillsides,  under  the  shade  of 
which  well-looking  cattle  may  be  seen  resting,  whilst  on  the  other  hand  are 
pretty  views  of  river  and  distance,  visible  under  line  willows,  or  through 
birches  that  carried  me  back  to  Deeside."     (IIox.  Ahtituu  Oohdox.) 

The  train  runs  out  E.  from  Woodstock  across  the  St.  John  vallev  to 
Newburgh  (or  Woodstock)  Junction,  when;  it  turns  N.  on  the  main  line, 
and  runs  rapidly  through  the  forest,  emerging  upoti  the  meadows  of  the  St. 
John,  whicli  are  followed  for  a  hundred  miles.  Victoria  and  ISfiddle 
Sinionds  (Mills's  Hotel)  are  quiet  hamlets  on  the  river,  centres  of  agricul- 
tural districts  of  5  -  800  inhabitants  each.  Florenceville  is  a  pretty  village, 
•'  |)erched,  like  an  Italian  town,  on  the  very  top  of  a  high  bluff  far  over  the 
river."  The  district  between  Woodstock  and  Wicklow  was  settled  after 
the  American  Revolution  b}'  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  West  India 
liangers  and  the  New  Brunswick  Fencibles. 

"  Between  Florenceville  and  Tnbique  the  road  becomes  even  prettier, 
winding  along  the  bank  o^  the  St.  John,  or  through  woody  glejis  that 
combine  to  my  eye  Somerse  >hire.  Perthshire,  and  the  green  wooded  part 
of  southwestern  Crermany."  There  are  five  distinct  terraces  along  the 
v.illt'y,  showing  the  geological  >  hanges  in  the  level  of  the  river.  5  M.  S. 
W.  of  the  river  is  Mars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  nbout  1.200  ft  high,  which 
overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  forest.  This  was  one  of  the  chief  points  of 
controversy  during  the  old  border-troubles,  and  its  summit  was  cleared  by 
the  Commissioners  of  1794. 


M 


Haute  13. 


TOBIQUE. 


h  ■m 


i  mm 


From  Florenceville  the  train  runs  N.  3  M.  to  Kent,  where  a  road  /eadil 
across  in  16  M.  to  the  upper  Miramichi  waters,  whence  canoes  and  tisherJ 
men  descend  the  great  river,  GO  M.,  to  Boiestown  (see  page  47),  tliroughl 
rich  hill  and  forest  scenery,  and  with  the  best  of  salmon  and  trout  fish- 
ing.  (Forguides,  etc.,  write  to  J.  Ilichards  &  Son,  Fredericton,  N.  B.). 

Beyond  the  long-drawn  town  of  Kent,  the  train  traverses  the  pleasant  I 
(but rather  lonely)  glens  of  Muniac,  celebrated  in  Indian  tradition;  and 
reaches  the  little  village  of  Perth,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  St.  John,  with] 
a  hotel  and  four  or  five  stores,  and  mills.     The  frequent  views  of  the  bright  I 
river,  on  the  left,  give  an  appearance  of  diversity  and  clieerfulness  to  the 
landscape. 

Tobiqne  (/.  A.  Perleifs  inn)^  otherwise  known  as  Andover,  is  pleasantly 
stunted  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  St.  John,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Tobiqne  River.  It  has  400  inhubittuits  and  2  churches,  and  is  the  chief 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  lumbering-camps  on  the  Tobiqne  River.  Nearly 
opposite  is  a  large  and  picturesque  Indian  villtige,  containing  about  loO 
persons  of  the  Milicete  tribe,  and  situated  on  the  blufl'at  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers.  They  have  a  valuable  reservation  here,  and  the  men  of  the 
tribe  engage  in  lumbering  and  boating. 

A  branch  railway  runs  from  Arnostook  Junction  for  34  M.  up  the  Aroo«to<>k 
T»lley,  by  Fort  Fairfield  (Col  Una  Uouh*),  an  American  town  of  3,fXX)  iiilial)- 
itautii,  near  Aroostook  Falls,  Battle  Brook,  etc  ,  and  with  several  churches  and 
flbctor'eit.  It  was  m;ttle<t  in  IRl'l  hy  New-Brunstwickers,  who  supposed  it  to  be  in 
their  ProTlnce.  The  railway  goes  on  12  M.  to  Caribou  (  I'nut/han  Uoasf),  with 
8.00Q  inhabitants  and  a  newspaper,  and  a  neij^hhorhood  abounding  in  trout,  deer, 
mooae,  etc.  12  M.  beyond,  at  the  end  of  the  railway,  is  l*r(>M|ii«*  iHle  ( Prem/ii  - 
Jale  Hotel;  Pha'tr  Hotel'),  with  S,.^)  inhabitant.'*,  a  nt-w^piipir.  «,p«Ta  house,  water- 
works, etc.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  bears,  det'r,  moose,  caribou,  ducks,  and  capital 
Bshin^,  In  Prewue-l»lc  Stream,  Aroostook  Uiver,  Squnwpan  !/ike.  Thence  oti« 
beglDii  the  excui;«k>ns  to  the  liUisle  bikes,  Milhiukett,  Millnigassett,  Numsuugun,  etc. 

from  Toh'que  to  /iathurst.     Throwji  the  Wilderness, 

Th«  new  Tobique- Valley  Kail  way  runs  from  Tubique  beyond  Arthurette. 

Guides  and  canoeR  can  be  obtained  at  the  Indian  village  near  Tobique.  About 
1  M.  al>ove  Tobique  the  voyagers  ascend  through  the  I^'arrau-s,  where  the  rapid  cur- 
rvnt  of  th«  Tobique  River  is  confined  in  a  winding  canon  (1  M.  long,  150  ft  wide, 
and  60-100  ft.  deep)  t)etween  high  limestone  clitfs  Then  the  river  broadens  out 
into  a  pretty  lake-like  reach,  with  rounded  and  forest-covered  hills  on  either  side. 
The  first  night-camp  Is  usually  made  high  up  on  this  reach.  Two  more  rapids  are 
next  passed,  and  then  commences  a  stn-tch  cf  clear,  dei'p  wati'r  70  M.  long.  Near 
the  P  of  the  reach  is  toe  S(>ttleiu*'nt  of  Artfiurette,v/\i\\  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  hi. J  Kapidi  are  11  M  from  tiH>  mouth  of  the  river,  and  descend  between  high 
•bores.  Occasional  Wautifully  wooded  Lslands  are  piu<sed  in  the  stn-ani ;  and  by 
the  evening  of  the  second  day  the  voyagers  should  reach  the  high  red  clilTs  at  the 
niourh  of  the  l)road  Wapskehegnn  River.  This  Indian  name  signifies  "  a  river  with 
a  wail  t.t  itt)  mouth,''  and  the  stream  may  be  ascended  for  20  M..  through  a  region 
of  ilniesVone  hills  and  alluvial  iiktervales.  The  Wapskehegan  is  31  M.  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Tobique. 

Infn*({uent  ckarlngs,  red  clilTs  along  the  shore,  and  blue  hills  more  remote,  en- 
gag(>  the  attention  as  the  canoe  as«-ends  still  farther,  passing  the  hamlet  of  Foster's 
Cbve  on  the  N  bank,  and  running  along  the  shores  of  Diamond  and  Loi,,.  Island, 
44  M.  up  river  Is  the  Aguhinac  Uiver,  coming  in  from  the  K-,  and  navigaole  by 
canoofl  ror  25  M.  As  the  Intervales  beyond  this  continence  are  passed,  occasional 
ffllnipses  are  gained  (on  the  r.)  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  other  tall  ridges.  At  80  M. 
Qom  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  canoe  reaches  The  Forks  (4-6  days  trom  Tobique). 


mmm 


NICTOR  LAKE. 


RouU  13.       55 


The  Campbell  River  here  comes  in  from  the  E.  and  S.  E.,  from  the  great  Tobique 
'Lake  and  other  remote  wilderness- waters :  the  Momoeeket  descends  from  the  N., 
'  and  from  the  N.  W.  comes  the  Nictor,  or  Little  Tobique  Itiver.  It  Is  a  good  day's 
[journey  from  the  Forks  to  Cedar  Brook,  on  the  Motor;  and  another  day  conducts 
i  to  the  *  Nictor  l«ake,  "  possessing  more  beauty  of  scenery  than  any  other  locality 
I  have  peen  In  the  Province,  except,  perhaps,  the  \ia.y  of  Chaleur.  Clase  to  its 
southern  edge  a  granite  mountain  rises  to  r  height  of  nearly  3,(M)0  ft.,  clothed  with 
wood  to  its  summit,  except  where  it  breaks  into  preiipii'es  of  dark  rock  or  long  gray 
shingly  slopes.  Other  mountains  of  less  iieight,  but  in  some  cases  of  more  pictur- 
esqiu*  forms,  are  on  other  sides ;  and  in  the  lake  itself,  n  the  slia4low  of  the  moun- 
titin,  is  a  little  rocky  islet  of  most  inviting  appearance''  Ittiikes2-3  hours  to 
ii-xcend  the  mountain  (Enid,  or  Saganiock),  whence  "  the  view  is  very  fine.  The  lake 
lies  right  at  our  feet,  — millions  of  iirres  of  forost  are  spread  out  bef.'n?  us  like  a 
map,  sinking  and  swelling  in  Ofe  dark  mantle  over  hills  and  vulleys,  whilst  Katah- 
<lin  and  Mars  Hiil  in  Maine,  Tracadiegash  in  Canada,  the  Squaw't.  Cap  on  tbe 
lU'stigouche  andtJreen  Mountain  in  Victoria, are  all  distinctly  visible."  (Gordon.) 
Fn)in  the  head  of  Nictcu*  I.iake  a  portage  3  M.  long  leads  to  the  Neplslgult  Lake, 
on  whose  E.  shore  is  the  remarkable  peak  called  Mount  Teneriffe.  Near  the  outlet 
is  a  famous  camping-ground,  where  the  fishing  is  good  and  in  whoso  vicinity  deer 
and  (lucks  arc  found.  It  takes  about  si::  days  to  descend  the  Ntpiaiguit  River  to 
tlie  Orcat  falls,  th»  larger  part  of  the  way  being  through  forests  of  flr  and  between 
distant  ranges  of  bare  granite  hills. 

The  Tobique  affords  tlio  very  best  of  .salmon-fishing,  with  many  trout  also.  The 
scenery  is  very  interesting,  with  noble  red  clilTs,  and  canons,  seething  rapids,  hiil- 
girt  hikes,  and  true  forest  wiidness.  The  Tobique  is  the  most  picturusquo  stream 
in  New  Brunswick. 

Orand  Falls  {Grnnd-Falh  Hotel,  a  new  summer-resort;  American^ 
Glasier's),  the  central  point  of  the  upper  St.  John  region,  once  a  British 
pirrison,  and  now  capital  of  Victoria  County,  has  latterly  become  famous 
as  a  watering-place,  the  attractions  being  the  noble  river  and  gorge  and 
hill  scenery  adjacent,  the  summer  coolness,  beautiful  drives,  fine  fishing- 
grounds,  etc.  The  pretty  little  village,  with  its  three  churches,  stands  ou 
a  square  peninsular  plateau,  with  the  river  on  three  sides,  and  a  dry  ravine 
on  the  fourth.  The  immensely  wide  Broadway  runs  from  the  railway 
to  the  bridge.  The  diverse  manners  of  the  French  habitant  and  Danish 
iinuiigrants  are  worthy  of  observation.  Partridges  and  wild  ducks  abound 
here,  in  the  fall,  and  furnish  good  .^port ;  and  the  strawberries^  of  July  are 
delicious.  The  Falls  are  at  their  best  in  May,  when  magnificent  coiivul- 
s.oi.s  of  the  fiooded  river  aie  .-een.  A  month  lat.,r,  th.e  logs  como  down. 
Besides  the  view  fron.  the  bridge,  the  Falls  and  the  gorge  should  be  seen 
from  the  old  mill  above,  from  the  Wells  (5  huge  eroded  pot-holes,  with 
grand  prospect  of  the  canon  and  rapids),  n„d  from  Trover's  Leap  over  the 
jn-ofound  l^ills-Brook  BH..in.  The  scenery  is  majestic  and  awe-inspiring. 
Iliere  are  lovely  views  from  the  mountain  W.  of  (and  700  ft.  nhove) 
tlu-  village,  including  Blue  Bell,  Bald  Head,  and  the  long  lines  of  the  Sal- 
nion-Kivcrand  Blue  Mts. 

The  ** Grand  Falls  nre  near  the  vill.g,.,  nn.l  turtn  the  mo.st  impoMng 
cataract  in  the  Maritime  rrovinces.  The  river  expands  int.;  a  broad  basin 
above,  aflbrding  a  landing-placo  fur  do.scendlng  canoes;  then  hurries  iw 
massive  current  into  a  narrow  rock-bound  gorge,  In  which  it  slants  down 
an  incline  of  0  ft.,  and  then  plunges  over  u  precipice  of  calcareous  slate 


v» 


50        Hmte  IS. 


UHANl)   KALIiS. 


ftH  0.  high.     'V\\o  sbnpo  »>!'  tln»  frtll  i«  Hingnhu-,  wliioo  llio  wiitor  loHpn  (V«nn 
tlu>  AiMit  luul  iVotn  \u\\]\  hUW'*,  >vill»  tiiint»r  imil  »l«'tiu'ln>(l  t'ns<'H(l«>««  itvoi*  tin' 
outor  loiljios.      |\«'lo\v  \\\o  rutiU'mM   tho  riv<»r  wliirU  iiml  whifriiH  for  !|  M. 
tht^Misrh  n  rnirooil  jror^r*^  '2.")t<  H.  wiilo,  wlio^^c  wnlU  «»!'  dmU   rncU  me  iVom 
lOOlo  '240  (^.  hi^li.     "H   iH  ii  imrrow  mul  iVi^lill'nl  rlniHin,  ImhIhmI  liy  ||ii> 
tnxihloil  WMtov,  ;(ii(l  oxi'MVMtoil  l»y  boilinj!;  «>t|tli<'«  mul   \\  I'ii  l|Min|>*  «I\vm\ 
in  motion;  lit   In**!   \\w  wnlor  |>l\in>:«»>*  in  iiti  inniHMiso  iVolliv  hIhmM   inln  h 
bufin  holow.  wImmv  it  hocotnoi  lr!Mit|uil,  inul  lln»  vlrctnti  r«'«iimo'*  itn  ori^i 
n«l  t'oMttiivs.  •     Within  the  ^:org»'  thf  rivtM-  l;ills  AS  0.  inorc.  iiinl  tho  rn/' 
fiyd  shoivs  in*«»  stvown  with  Iho  wvocUs  ol"  hnnltfr  rnlty  whii  h  hnv«»  hiToino 
on(!ingl«Ml  \w\'i\     riio  trnvi'IltM*  shotjid  try  I  >  vi«it  tho  I'tills  v.hiMi  Iuii^mm 
flhont  pn^ninji  oyov.     ;<  -  4  M.  hs'low  tho  I'mIIs  i-*  1lu>  ilimpMuuH  linftiilv  ili 
h\iHf»t'.     Small  slonnuT'*  hiivo  Ix'cn  plMi-oil  on  (ho  river  nhovc  llu*  l''iilh, 
«n<l  luivo  rnn  iis  Imi-  :»>  ili«»  nionlli  o('lh«'  St.  l-'runci'*,  (.A  M    ili^lmit. 

It  In  a  fmtUMoM  of  «lti>  Mi««\i!i«  »  l)iti(   in  n  n-ntod'  np:i<  <wn  I'iniit  leu  of  llwlr  (iUh' 
in>n<   on    tl)i>  n)<)>«'r  St    John    hnntin^.  iiml   \m  re   HorpiiTil    li\   ii   \mii  piirty   ot  tin' 
dtrann?!*  HHil  (l\i»Mil«'«t  N.xiluMn  linli.ui^      'I'lic  lollt'i  wnc  iU'wicmiIIii^  (Ito  rivrr  ti>  iil 
t««k  tho  lo«.>r  >tt«"n\ni'  vill.Mjr''*,  soiil  liii>  nl  (lir  <ii|>tnn'il  wonion  to  |iil<it  Micni  dnwn 
A  t'i'W  niilosHhoxo  (lu>  t'lilU  ll\i'\  ll^Koll  (Iti  ir  nn>\lilhi^  ^niilrs  it  (lii>  Htti'itni  wiin  nil 
hu\i>«^t1<  I'olow .  i>n(l  on  nM-i'i>in(i  i«n    !»{Hnn(ilo<'  iin-wi  r,   Ik^Iu-iI   tl\»'  rim<'t"<  )tii;rtli('i 
into  «  \'iit>.tn)it  XMMit  »«>  sliH'p,  «'\l\Mn'«fi'(t  «itli  thcit  nunHli.      U  lim  nom    (lie  ^liinul 
KrtIN  tho  ««>(non  «jni«'U>  (h"0|n>i'il  <m>tlM>«nl  iiml  s\\;nn  nslioro,  while  Uio  hnstiU'  win 
ritM'^,  wiTipi**'"!  in  shnni>«>v,  wrn'  -w«'i>l  down  inio  (l\i' r!»|tiiis,  otil\  fo  iiwnlirn   when 
«>m>m»<»  «a»  iinj>oMsit\l«>      Tln<ir  hoilit's  wore  s(rlp|H'il  l>\  f lir  IMitnuic^  on  (lit' ilvcr  Im' 
low.Hud  du'  I'nno  wi^nn'n  won' over  «(ti'rw«nl  holil  in  liiuli  honor  li\  (he  (i|Ih>. 

rn>s'*mjj[  (ho  S(.  .h>hn  m(  tJiMntl  TulN,  (ho  lino  nsoontU  (ho  K  hnnk  ot 
tho  s(r«>!nn.  !in«l  M>on  ond'vs  tho  ,\o:nlimi  licnoh  sot(loinon(M  tiinl  I'tninin^ 
tliK(riots.  8-  10  M.  np  tho  road  is  (ho  villsip'  o('  Si.  Liothnul,  nouily  nil  of 
Mhoso  |HM>ph»  »ro  Kronoh :  and  on  (ho  Amoiinui  nhoro  (lor  (ho  Si.  .hihn 
Rivor  is  l"or  uumy  loMiinos  tho  In^nlior  ho(\voon  Iho  nsitions)  Is  tho  sinii 
lurly  ooniilitntod  villMjrt»  ol'  IViw  Huun  (t\v«>  inns).  I  his  distrlo(  is  hirgoly 
|>ooj>lod  by  (ho  l\vr,  Niolotto.  nnd  Miohi;:»d  I'innilios. 


Rl 


Tho  Hon    Arthur  tJordon  thno  doworilM's  ono  i^f  tlioM»  Aomlinn  hontoi*  ncnr  fJriuul 


vor  on   lS«ii<^ 


Thowljolo  iif.|»«'i'»  of  the   fiinn  va«*  dial   ot  ii    niriani'    \\\   Nor 


mnnih  ;  tho  outor  ilinns  of  (In-  honso  n.indilx  piiintod.  (ho  |>anol-<  ot  ii  dilloi-out 
o»^lor  fhMU  tho  IVjuuo,  -  tho  lartn',  ojH'n,  nnotu|x'(oil  i\»on»,  with  itn  hiin'  hliinluK 
H«>«>r,  -  tl»o  Ihhm's  at  tin' spinning;  wlii'«>l,  (Ijo  Krcnoli  coxtnnio  and  H|>|H'iu'»n«'i>  of 
Miidamo  >  ii'lol  Hiiil  Ikv  sons  anil  ttHn^h(<'rs,  -  nil  oarnod  nio  haok  (o  (ho  n(hor  nidi' 
i.t  tho  Atl«ntio  " 

(I'MMi/  7iV»v  >•  (Trtrilitrs  itni)  is  n  hiunlot  nhoiil  4  M.  lu'Nond  St.  Loontird, 
at  tho  mouth  ol  the  rivor  o(  (ho  samo  nnmo. 

Thf  St  John  Hirer  to  thr  I\iitt}<jourhe. 

A  niirvf^l  wjldornos^  jonrnoy  utay  Ih>  nindo  on  this  lino,  h\  otijiajriiifr  Acadiuii 
(H'Mos  and  ran«>«'>  «t  tin-  Madawaslka  »i«'ttlt'inon(«*.  ,'J  4  w«'oKs  will  hv  snl'loiciit  timo 
fo  ri'Hoh  tho  Hay  I't  (MjaUnr.  with  plonty  ot  nsliin>r  imi  tho  way.  On  loavinjr  (ho  St. 
John  th««  voxnpTs  «.>scimu1  tlw  (iiand  Uivor  to  it^  tiil>n(ar\  ,  th«'  \Vaa>riinsis.  A  p«irt 
(kjre  otT»  -  t^  Si .  tViMn  this  iitnM<ni  Itsuls  to  tln>  Waa^an.  down  w host'  narrv>w  cu'ront 
tho  oiin«vs  tttvnt  thnMJ^rh  th»'  fori'st  until  tho  l>roa»l  Uoitti^oucho  isontorod  (scoKoutt) 
16 ;  OP*  alsi>  Hou  Arthur  Uonlon  iu  "  Vuintion  Tourl!«ts "  tor  1802  -  tW,  p.  477). 


# 


iMADAWAHKA. 


liout,'  II.     Til 


\  \vH  .ir  f||,.|r  trllii. 

"Ill   piiiJy    (»r  III,. 

iin  y\\v  iiv'n- 1)1  Ml 

'  l»"<'f    »ln'lll  )|n«vii 

In-  ftniim  wiiH  It  1 1 
I  tu'tii   «|ii>  (hitii,| 

!<'    <l4l'    ll.ls)ill>    \\M 

♦  "  iiMiilii'ii    whrii 

^'  oil   III,.  ilvtM-  ill' 

l>.V  tlli>  liil)<>. 

<ll«'  V.    Iilltik    n( 
•f*  llll.l   (Mnililj^ 

f/,  in'inlyiiMni 
»r  liio  SI.  .Inliii 
1^)  is  tlu'  Mini 
>*»ricf  is  Itir^t'lv 


iiH'n  iii-nr  nrniiil 
iiriiint'    in   \,„.. 

'■<  <••   II  (iilU'ii'iil 
if"  t'lin'  ^liiiiiti^ 

<l    ll)»|M>Mnuic«>  of 
o   Hu>  OlJHT  Hide 


<;  M.  iiImivc  Orniiil  Mivrr  in  St.  Bniil,  with  1,400  iiihnliilntit<«  qiid  n  liirt^n 
I  itliMJir  ( 'liimh  Mini  flit' < 'uiivi'iit  (iimI  Si  Ikm.I  nf  ilic  Sjuri'il  lli'iirf,  A  few 
milt'"  ln'Miinl  «n«  soiiii'  i-<l(iiii|H  in  tin-  St.  .Inhn  l{iviT,  ovi-r  \vlii<  li  i-i  m-iui 
III.'  ViiH'iinin  vili.'i<:i'  "f  (,'rifttt  hiv  (r\r'B  inn),  «  plnii'  <>f  70(»  inlniliilnritfl, 
tili  "I  wlioni  Mil'  Ar.iilijiiiM.  'I'liiM  villn  re  wn«  iiinirfioniliMl  in  IM<J!i.  mimI  \n 
,.ii  tlif  r.  S.  iiiMil  roiilc  fnun  Viiii  Miircii  !<•  I'oif  Ki-nf.  Mi'XoimI  'Jn-pfi 
Unci  tin'  iniiil  iMinliiiiM'n  iiroiiiitl  ilw.  irrcMl  I. ••ml  ..I  tli.'  m.  .I>>liri  ft,  ihn 
,\«  Miliiin  Hi'llli'ini'iil  <■!'  KdinnniUtotW  ,I'A//hj'  //«»/«/  //"/«/  //»(/;/»)'i'  tln'i-fm- 
lliK'iii'i'  i>t'  till'  Minliiuii  <lvii  iind  SI.  •Iitlin  Uivi>m.  I'liiM  im  ||ii>  ccnlrc  u\ 
ilii>  Ariiiliiin-l'n'iM'li  '-•'illi-nii'iiU  wliirli  i-xlfiid  fioin  llif  (iniiid  I'mIIx. 
jiiHdiMlriil  is  slnddi'd  Willi  Untinin  < 'nilndir  ('Iiii|ii  1-4,  imd  i-«  dividfd  into 
iimumw  liiiins,  on  wliii  li  mii'  <|im:iil  liltli*  Immiki'm.  IImic  nn-  lie  li  InirtM  of 
iiilt«r\iilt' iilniifT  ilii'  rivi'is,  (ind  llif  |i«M»|di'  ai«'  ^I'lM-mliy  m  ft  iincspcroiin 
;iihI  Ii)i|i|iv  nindilinit.  rill'  \isilnr  sliniild  aMn-jid  to  llin  top  of  lim  jidtily 
Hiliuili'd  old  lilork  lioiisi'  lower,  om<i-  lidiniindslon,  for  tlio  nuke  of  tlio 
wnjc  iimmici  I  over  iln'  dislricl..  TIm'  villn^j.i  in  rnllicr  rnidc,  lint  flio 
irmrv  iilioiil  it,  inrlndin^  llm  ^rciil  river,  llic  lirli  iin/idowM,  Iln;  fnr- 
iiwfiv  Ml.  <  iinnt'l,  \'*  vi'ry  rimrmiinc.  '  li  Insl  'd  llHliin^;  (Iroiil  niifl 
wliili'ii'^li,  liihidi  Mild  tot|iit>,  -  llicsj'  Jailer  wi-i^liinj;  from  In  to  .'{,'>  |ioiuidn 
cii  li)  is  to  he  t'lijoNi'd  in  iITh  \  irinity,  pMrlirnlMily  in   l'i«li   Kiviir  .ind  the 

I  ;iult<  l.aiu's,  (Iri'i'ii  Kivrr,  and  Mm   ri'iiiisronata  ir^ioii. 

riil<i  |iiMi|ili>  JM  ili'Hri'inli'd  from  Mi»<  Kri'tifti  roionlMls  who  llvi'd  on  Mm  Mhon'ft  of  Mi« 
|t:i\  III  l''iiiii|v  Mini  llif  IIiihIii  of  MlniiH  iil  Iln-  iiiii|illf  of  llu«  iHlli  ifoliiry  VVh»»fi 
the  cnii'l  •''lift  of  »«xiii>  Mrtw  i-jirri('i|  intn  cHii  I  in  ITrn'i  (•«.(>  Uoui,. 'j|  )|,„iny  of  Mm 
\<.'|iIImih  II<'i|  tVoiii  llii>  AiikIo  AiiM'ri)  nil  Iroops  hikI  Look  \\U\\[^i\  in  Mic  I'od'kI,  A  fior- 
IJiiii  iif  llifiii  iiHcciHlrtl  Mif  St    .loliii  to  lln>  |irc'('iit  wltn  <<\  !''rc<lci  iclon,  nrnl   foim«l«'d 

II  new  lioiiie  ,  lint  llirv  Nvott'  <'J<'it<'i|  :!<l  M>(ir^  Inter,  in  onler  tint  the  liiinl  ini«tit  t»« 
(tivi'ii  to  Mil'  reln^ree  Ann  rl<  (in  l,oyiili'<ts  'linn  lliey  imIviiik  nl  Inlo  Mie  fniekli-nn 
liiri'-it,  mill  .<elll(«(|  in  tlie  Mni|ii>viiskii  reniun,  svlitre  tlioy  Imvi"  ln-cri  |<«Tiiiitte(|  In  r«- 
iii;iiii  iiiiillstiirlH'tl.  NVIieii  Dm  Ainerienn  IVontier  wim  |iiif<lMM|  forwiinl  to  Mm-  .Ht,. 
.Inliii  llivcr,  l»y  tlie  slrH|,  ill|iloinii(v  of  Mr  WclHler,  tlic  Anidliinx  fo'iiid  Mnin-i'irwi 
ilivKJid  liv  It  tiiition;il  liDiiiiihiry  ;  iind  ho  Mit<y  hIIII  n'liiiiin.  tieirlv  lifiifof  Mte  villn|;nM 
lii'iii^r  ell  till'  side  of  tliel'nitid    StiileH       II    Is  tihMiiiiit^'d   iliiit.  tlnri' iiriMiONV  atioilt 

H.IKIII   IMTSOIIH  til   MlI'MO  K('ttlelll|t|lt..>4. 

"  It  sviiM  |)leiiNjiiit  to  drive  tilonif  Mie  wide  lliif  InterVfile  wlilrh  formed  Mie  MiviA- 
w.i-U.'i  \iilley,  to  s«M«  tlu>  rieli  iio|)-i  of  ftiit-*,  liiicU  wlieiit ,  and  pofiitoe*  ;  the  liirK*^, 
etlen  liiiiidsoiiie,  iiihl  exteniiilly  clcnii  and  loinfortiitilr-looldiiK  lioiineH  of  Mie  IntiHti- 

iliiiils,  uitii  tim  w led  IiIkIi  grounds  iit  ii  di-itui, re  on  oiir  rlKlit,  mid  M>e  river  on 

niir  letl,  -on  wlii'di  nil  oeniHloiinl  lioiit,  liideii  witli  utorex  for  the  liimtterers,  witli 
the  lii'lji  iif  stout  linrses,  tiii|i>d  avrninst  tlie  enrrent  towiiroH  the  rarely  ris|N>i|  head- 
waters o|  the  tilliiitarv  sd'eains,  wln-re  the  virtflii  foie-ils  f.i|||  stood  iin'ons<ioiiH  of 
till'  a\e  'I'liis  hcaiitilni  valley ,  with  the  riih  lands  whi<h  horder  the  river  at.ove 
tlie  iiHMilh  of  the  Madawiiska,  as  fir  aliiiost  as  that  of  the  river  Ht.  Friiriiis,  U  thi; 
prt  iillar  seat  of  Hie  old  Aeadlaii-I'reiieh  "     (Piioi-'.  .Ioii.mhto^.) 

Till'  Aiiierlean  village  of  !V1»t<lH\viiHkH  (two  inns  i  is  o|i|ios!ti>  K  lniiirid»ton,  and 
li.is  over  1  .tMKMiihahil  lilts.  The  II.  S  inail-sfaire-*  run  from  ihi-<  j.oini  n|>  the  vai- 
lr>  of  the  St.  .John  lor  l'<  M.  to  another  Aeadiaii  villau'e,  whirli  wa-  firsl.  iiaiiiR<l 
Himiiic  (ill  hiiiior  of  Katlirr  l)ioiii!e,  who  loiiniled  here  the  Chiireh  of  Hf.  Luce)  :  In 
iHillt  wiw  iiK  or)iorated  as  IMeKes  ville,  in  honor  of  so'  'i<  liM-al  statesman  ;  and  in  1H71 
riri'ived  the  iiHiiie  of  I'leiirh  ville,  "  as  di'serlhiri);  Im  nationalir\  «»l  itM  s«tt|erH." 
I''iiim  near  Kreiichville  ii  portane  f)  M  lon^  lead"  lo  t!ie  shores  ot  Ijik*  ('if  if  land  ^ 
a  fine  shiM't  of  wati-r  '.»  M.  Ion;;,  coiineeted  hy  .Seeoiid  Liiku  uuU  I^JiItt'  I'reblw  with 
Uih  Sfd^wirk,  wideji  Ik  nuurl)  l<)  M.  long. 


i      I" 


4 


i 


58       Route  IS. 


TEMISCOUATA   LAKP* 


16  M.  8.  W.  of  MadawRHka  is  Fort  Kent,  an  old  border- post  of  the  U.  8.  Army.    Tt 
has  two  innH  and  about  1,0(H)  iuhabituntH  (including  tb<' luljnctMit  fnnniiiy  ^vith- 
mcnti*),  and  Ih  tho  t«'rniinus  of  tlu'  nmil-nnit*'  from  Van   Huifu.     Fioi;*  U,;,.  pciii 
stages  run  M".  '20  M.  to  Mio  Acadian  village  of  St.  Franris,  nei./  the  niouMi  of  the  S». 
Fninois  Ulver.     The  latter  stream,  tlouing  tVon\  tlir-  N.  U  .,  i«  tiu'  liouu'  ■'     <'f  '..x. 
UnitiHl  States  for  the  .ie.\t  40  M.,  descending  thvougii  the  long  lakes  eaii>,<  V'llu- 
iitookwangnnds,  Peohtaiv.    kaagomic,  and    I'ohenegjimook.       Atxive    th^*  Ukonth  •<, 
the  St    i-'ransi;    the  Sf.  .h  i  u  Hivci  :s  included  ui  the  Stjite  of  Mnint     >\tui  flow 
thni'>'i  that  ijvM.en.M'  ami  tra  .klcss  forest  which  covers  "an  «'xtent  seven  tinn-    il'.it 
of  till)  fr        i.t  Hl.ick  Forest  of  Uernian.y  at  its  largest  expanse  in  modern  times.    The 
Sfcit-v   .;;   fth(^de  Island,  Connecticut,  and   Del;. ware  coultl  be  lost  together  in  our 
Of  (    (e.ji  forests,  and  still  leave  about  each  a  margin  of  wihb'rness  suOlciently  wide 
i(o  !>iKk.<  ;he  exploration  without  a  coni|mss  a  work  of  desperate  adventure"     Its 
chief  fvibut-jry  in  the  woods  is  the  Allagash,  wliicli  descends  from   the  gr«'at   Laki-s 
PcMtgtM-kwahen  and  Chamberlain,  near  the  Chesuncook  and  Mooschead  Lakes  and 
the  head-waters  of  the  l'en«d>scot. 

Tin'  Kh'xI*'  Lakt'H,  ii  Maine,  are  risited  hence  (guides  «ditaiiied  at  Whitne.v'i!| 
by  a  ptirtage  t>t  r»l  M  I'm  I  /'r.  iicliriHf,  h  M  above  Edmundston,  to  Loikj  ImKv, 
when  •«,  by  IMud,  ('n)ss,  Squire,  and  Kagle  hitkes,  and  Kish  l{iver,  the  canons  de- 
scend through  beautiful  scencrv  to  /o/V  A"«  itt,  20  M.  above  Edmuiid8ton.  There 
are  famous  burbot  and  whitetish  iu  these  lakes. 

From  Edmundston  the  TiMni'Sootinta  Railway  leavos  the  St.  John,  nnd 
asceiid.s  the  W.  shore  of  the  Miuhiwaska.  IJiit  few  settlements  are  j)assed, 
and  at  12  M.  from  Kdinundston  the  IM-oviiice  of  Quehec  is  entered. 
About  25  M.  from  Kdmiindston  the  nmd  reaehes  the  foot  of  the  pieturesciuf 
Temisoouata  Lake,  where  there  is  a  small  village.  The  road  Is  paraliel 
with  the  water,  hut  at  a  consiilerahle  distaiiee  from  it,  imti!  near  the 
upper  part,  and  pretty  views  are  alforded  from  various  points  where  it 
overlooks  the  lake. 

Temisantnln  is  an  Indian  word  n.eaning  "  Winding  Water,"  an<l  the  lake 
is  SO  M.  h)ng  by  2-3  M.  wide.  The  scenery  i;^  very  pretty,  and  the  clear 
deep  waters  eontaiti  many  fish,  the  best  of  which  are  the  tuladi,  or  greiif 
gray  trout,  which  soimdimes  weiglis  over  12  pounds.  There  are  also  white- 
fish  and  burbot.  Visitors  to  the  lake  usually  stop  at  the  Lake-Side  House, 
where  canoes  may  be  obtained.  From  the  W.,  Temisoouata  receives  the 
Cabineau  River,  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake  (!.'  by  2  M.);  and  on  the  F.  is 
the  Tuladi  River,  which  rises  iu  tl  »  highhun'  i  Kinn)iiski  and  flows 
down  through  a  chain  of  scclmled  and  rarely  visit  ■'  .akelets.  The  chief 
settlement  on  Temiscouata  Lake  is  the  French  Catholic  hamlet  of  Notre 
Dame  du  Lac,  which  was  fiumded  since  1801  and  has  180  inhabitants. 
Fort  Ingalls  commanded  the  lake,  and  had  a  garrison  of  200  men  as  late 
as  1850. 

At  the  motith  of  the  TuladJ.  2fiA  barrels  of  whlteflsh  were  taken  In  tho  ftill  run 
of  1  <7ft.  1  M.  up  an<  falls,  tVom  which  the  still  Tuladi  may  be  ascended  for  ItJ  M., 
to  tho  Forks,  where  tho  fl^hlng  is  very  good.  Deer,  bears,  caribou,  and  other  game 
aboun<l  In  these  vast  tmtrodden  for<'sts  A  fitvorite  trip  for  sportsmen  leails  from 
Edmundston  (by  carrlage>  up  tl>i>  Miidawaskn  to  Grlffln's,  1(5  M  .  then  a  portage  of 
2^  .M.  to  \J  1,5  Ijike:  then  n  long  ami  ilellghtftd  canoe-descent  to  Fourth  Squa-took 
lAke  :  th  •-  ''I'-'n  ln*o  Third  Hqua-took,  from  whose  shon*  Hues  the  noble-viewing 
Squa-took  PtiUc ;  and  ther  .^own  to  the  Forks,  and  along  the  Tuladi  Rlvor  to  Teuils* 
oouata  Lake. 

The  road  Vnm  Tem»scouata  Lake  to  ^ivi(!>re  du  I^up  is  40-60  M.  long, 

and  deavtnds  thr^ur-  ««  wiM  egion  mlo  which  few  settlers  have  advanced 


SHEDIAC. 


Houte  U.       69 


14.    St.  John  to  Shediao. 

l>«MiliiiC<^  •  "St.  John  to  Mon^t)n,oj  r.i.  ;  I'aiiiMec  Juuctiuti,  97;  Dorchester 
Uoiul,  102;  Sh'  -  .1  ,  iik),  I'oiut  dii  C'h6n«,  1U8. 

St.  .lolui  lo  i'liinscc  .luiiction,  see  Route  16 

rassenger.s  for  Sliediiic  iiiid  l*()iut  »lu  Oht'ii'C'  ciii»ni;c  curs  at  Painsec 
.Iiiiiction,  and  pass  to  the  N    K.  oviu  a  Iev«'l  and  unproductive  country. 

Shediao  (  HV/r/rm/  W'frcWey)  is  a  village  of  GOO  inlnil)itants,  with  8 
clnuH  lies,  —  Baptist,  the  Catliolic  St.  .losepli  de  Slit^diac,  and  St.  AndrewV, 
tlie  head  of  a  rural  deanery  of  the  Anglican  <'lnircli.  Tlie  town  is  well 
ituated  on  a  broad  liarhor,  which  is  sheltered  by  Shediac  Island,  hut  its 
conunerco  is  inconsiderable,  being  litnite<l  to  a  few  cargoen  of  lumber  and 
deals  sent  annually  to  (Jreat  Hritain.  The  small  oysters  ( Ogfren  carKuUrmtt) 
of  the  adjacent  waters  are  also  exported  to  th(^  provincial  cities.  Shodiac 
was  occupied  by  a  Krerjch  garrison  in  17')0,  lo  protect  the  borders  of 
Acadia,  and  in  Vlhl  there  were  2,000  French  ami  Acadian  troops  and 
settlers  here.  The  French  element  is  still  predominant  in  this  vicinity, 
and  its  interests  are  represented  by  a  weekly  paj)er  called  "Z,e  Moniteur 

Point  du  Chene  (Point  du  Chene  House)  is  2  M.  N  E.  of 

Slicdiac,  and  is  the  K.  termintis  of  the  railway  and  the  St.  Lawrence  port 
nearest  to  St.  John.  It  has  a  village  of  about  200  inhabitants,  with  long 
piers  reacliing  out  to  the  deep-water  channels.  From  this  point  passen- 
ger? enilmrk  on  the  steamers  for  Prince  Fdsvard  Island.  Daily  steamers 
run  from  Point  du  Chene  to  Summerside,  P.  K.  I.,  ^herc  they  make  con- 
nections with  the  trains  of  the  P.  K.  I.  Kailway  (sec  Koute  43)  for  Char- 
lottetown  and  all  |)arts  of  the  island. 

Passengers  leave  St.  .John  at  8  a.  M.,anJl  reach  Charlottetown  at  8  p.  M. 


The  Wfslmoi land  Coast.  Infroquont  niail-stiif^es  run  E.  from  Sh«'fHa(^  hy  Point 
(In  ChSnc  to  IJarachois,  H  M.  ;  Tiuiish,  17  ;  (Jroiit  Slu'nioi^uo  (Avanis  Hotel),  22; 
r.iid  Little  SltenioKUc,  24.  TIicm' suttloiixnitH  rontaiii  aliuiit  1,5(M)  inliiibifants,  moi^t 
of  wlioin  are  Acatlians  ('apeH  .loin'iiiiain  (lixt-d  whito  lii^lit,  visible  14  M.)  and  Tor- 
iiu'iitiiie  ari'  resiieetivcly  15  M.  and  20  M.  K.  of  LittUs  SlieiiioKiiu. 

10-  12 M.  N. of .ShetHac(inail-staK<' daily )aroth«'lart;e and  pros|KTous  Acadian pettle- 
iiifiitsof  th(»  Cocannrs  (tliroc  inns),  having  about  l/iOO  iiihabitants,H«>v('n  eij'hth'*  of 
whom  areof  Krcncli  ih-.scent.  These- jM'opli)  are  nearly  all  fanners,  eiijyaned  in  '  lin|{ 
the  level  plains  of  DniidaH,  although  a  good  harbor  oiMiU.s  liet\v(>(>n  the  viiluge.^.  'Zl  M. 
Imni  Shodiac  \^  Burtmiche.  {ivio  inns),  a  pros|»orouH  Acadian  villagi'  of  400  inhab- 
itjiuts,  engaged  iu  shipbuilding  and  in  thu  ex{K)rtatiou  of  lumber  and  oysters 

The  BnctoQche  and  Moncton  Kailway  runs  through  a  flne  farm- 

iug  cuuutry,  crotwiDg  Cocaguo. 


59  a    RmU  77.        ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC. 


•^  t 


Tt,  St.  John  and  HaMx  to  Quebec. 

The  Intercolonial  Railway  is  the  gigantic  and  costly  outgrowth  of  the  Canadian 
National  sen^^iment,  which  hnn  eatablinhed  here  a  perfectly  equipped  railway  roote 
of  vast  p.:.lcnt,  through  a  region  which  can  never  pay  the  cost  of  its  operation, 
being  thinly  ettled,  and  exposed  to  very  PcriouH  climatic  vicissitudes.  It  was 
deemed  essential  to  h^ve  a  firHt-class  route  betwei^n  the  maritime  and  inland  prov- 
inces, entirely  on  Canadian  territory,  even  tiiough  the  distance  id  neaiiy  double 
tliat  across  New  England.  The  first  road  was  surveyed  by  Major  Yule,  11.  E.,  before 
1840,  and  ran  across  the  present  Nortliern  Maine,  tlien  claimed  and  partly  held  by 
Canada.  In  1846-48  a  new  route  whs  carefully  laid  out  by  officers  of  the  Royal 
Engineers.  The  construction  began  in  18G!*,  and  was  finished  in  1876.  This  great 
military  route  runs  from  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  at  Riviere  du 
Loup,  to  Rimouslii;  where  it  loaves  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  crosses  the  lonely  high- 
lands of  Quebec,  reaching  gnidus  743  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  descends  to  the  Bay 
Chaleur.  Thence  it  runs  down  the  nc  rth  shore  of  New  Brunswick,  and  down  across 
Nova  Scotia,  to  Iliilifax,  its  magnificent  winter-harbor.  From  the  main  line  there 
are  brandies  to  Dalliousie,  Chatliam,  Richibucto,  Point  du  Chfine,  St.  John,  and 
Pictou.     The  entire  length  of  track  is  aboiit  850  M. 


>■*.  • 


1      *'^    -.  , 


84;  St.  .lean  Chrysostome,  488  ;  Chaudirro  Curve,  492  ;  HadlowJlOS;  Point  Levi' 
91);  Qm'bec,  500.  '  *        ' 


484 
491 


For  neiirly  80  M.,  from  AFfncton  to  Newcastle  (see  page  G2),  the  route 
lies  over  a  dull  couiilrv  (railway  from  Kent  Junction  to  Kichibutto). 
Stermers  run  hence  to  Cliatham  (also  a  branch  railway)  and  up  the  Mira- 
nki»  lo,  a!id  carriages  JM)  M  lu  the  hotel  on  the  Tai)usintac,  famous  Cor 
groat  sea-trout.  The  r.ulway  ros.ses  the  Miramichi  on  inuiu'n.sc  inm 
bridges,  earned  by  i"J  >Um<  j  hmv.;  ;\r\\  runs  for  nearly  50  M.  to  Bathurst 
(see  page  05),  where  it  ciw.sses  th"  K  'pif-iguit  un  a  long  bridge  of  Knglish 
iron.  The  .xceuery  is  much  Wva-v,  ;«-  the  train  rushc.  on,  with  fre(|uent 
glimpses  of  the  Ila\  nl  ('hauur,  t'T  oO  M.,  to  Dalhousie  (>ce  page  07),  0 
M.  beyond  which  is  Campbellton  (page  08),  with  its  railway  d'  .iiig-room. 
Charming  scenery  f"l  .iw>,  and  tue  line  crohses  tl,  Kesligouche  Kiver  on  a 
noble  iron  bridge,  jnsd  enters  the  I'rovince  (if  C^nelnje. 


I J  i-*^ 


ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC.        R>mte  77,     59  h 


The  Baie-des-Chaleurs  Bailway  runs  nlon^  the  N.  shore  of  the  bay, 
from  Metapedia  to  Carlton  (40  M.\  aiul  is  hcin.ir  prolonged  to  Paspcbiac 
flOO  M.)  nnd  Oasp-  HTO  y\.). 

Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Metapedia,  the  line  begins  the  long  ascent  of  the 
Mota[)edia  valley,  a  stretch  of  70  M,  of  wild,  moimtaiu-girt,  island-dotted, 
Scottish  scenery,  with  no  villages  or  towns,  or  hotels.  Lake  Metapedia 
affords  a  beautiful  sight,  and  abounds  in  lish  and  game,  but  no  accoinmo- 
lialions  for  tourists  have  yet  been  prepared.  Vast  forests  hem  in  tjje  road 
on  every  side,  stretching  lor  many  leagues  along  the  dreary  and  uninhab- 
iu'd  highlands.  About  the  only  product  of  the  region  is  salmon,  the  long 
and  rapid  Metapedia  River  affording  fair  sport  to  one  or  two  owners  of  iish- 
ing  lodges.  ...  A  few  small  lumber-mills  have  been  started  within  a 
year  or  two,  around  whioh  are  clustered  the  wooden  dwellings  of  th<;  work- 
men 

Sayabec,  a  few  miles  farther  on,  through  the  woods,  is  a  lonely  sta- 
tion at  the  crossing  of  the  old  military  road  from  Quebec  to  New  Bruns- 
wick. A  long  up-grade  leads  thence  to  Malphet  Lake,  and  soon  reaches 
the  Tartigon  Kiver,  which  it  follows  down  to  the  village  of  the  same  name. 
A  dreary  stretch  of  track  follows,  partly  obscured  in  deep  rocky  cuttings, 
and  partly  running  through  the  di'hris  of  burned  forests,  and  conducting, 
at  last,  to  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  by  the  Metis  Falls  and 
the  great  cuttings  near  St.  Octave,  which  is  the  station  for  the  Grand  and 
Little  Metis,  famous  salmon-streams,  where  good  hunting  is  found.  There 
is  a  large  summer-hotel  at  Little  Metis.  The  Grand  Metis  River  is  cnsssed 
by  a  long,  lofty,  and  costly  railway  bridge,  supported  on  high  stone 
abutments  a  mile  or  two  below  which  is  the  (irand  Metis  Fall,  where  the 
river  descends  75  ft.  at  a  single  plunge.  A  few  miles  beyond  is  St.  Flnne, 
where  the  route  enters  the  more  thickly  settled  French  country  along  the 
St.  Lawrence. 


60     Route  15, 


RICHIBUCTO. 


r  %'t\ 


15.  The  Bay  of  Chalenr  and  the  North  Shore  of  New 

Brunswick. 

Since  the  construction  of  the  Intercolonial  Railwny,  tlip  routes  of  Pro- 
vincial travol  have  undergone  many  important  chanjjes,  particuhnlv 
around  the  N.  shore  of  Now  Brunswick,  where  tlie  trains  on  this  great 
route  have  supplanted  tlie  services  of  the  stenniships.  The  regular  steam- 
ship lines  between  Quebec  and  Prince  Kdward  Island,  wliich  used  to  serve 
these  ports,  now  no  more  visit  the  shores  of  New  Brunswick. 

The  Quebec  steamships  do  not  now  go  up  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  but  the 
account  of  the  Bay  is  retained  for  the  use  of  voyagers  by  other  vessels. 
A  steamboat  leaves  Dalhousie  several  times  a  week  for  ports  on  the  Bay  of 
Cbaleur,  running  out  as  far  as  Gasf)^. 

Biohibucto  ( Phair's  JloUt)  is  the  capiuil  of  Kent  County,  and  cccupies 
a  favorable  posi.«on  for  commerce  and  shiphuiiding  near  the  m»»uth  of  the 
Richibucto  River.  It  has  ab<  ut  800  inl)abitaiits  and  -i  churches,  and  is 
engaged  in  the  exportation  of  lumber  and  caimed  lobsters.  Tlie  river  is 
navigable  for  20  M.,  and  has  been  a  great  highway  fur  lumber-ves.sels, 
although  now  the  supply  of  the  forests  is  wellnigh  exhausted.  In  the 
region  about  Richibucto  are  many  Acadian  faruiers,  and  the  liamlet  of  Al- 
douin  liiver,  4  M.  from  the  town,  pertains  to  this  people.  The  Kent 
K:  *;hern  Railway  runs  27  M.  S.  \V.  froui  Richibucto  to  Kingston  and 
Kent  Junction  (Bnm-n's  Uotvl)  on  the  Iiitereolonial  Railway.  The  rail- 
way leads  also  N.  W.  7  M.  to  -SV.  Louis,  with  its  convent  and  sacred  well. 
A  road  leads  S.  VV.  through  the  wilderness  to  the  Grand-Lake  district  (see 
pages  48-41)). 

The  Beaches  ($ 2-.'}  a  day ;  ;.'ductions  for  season)  is  a  new  summer- 
resort  near  Richibucto,  ^siii  accomm  Nations  for  200  guests,  with  ca;ital 
facilities  for  boating  and  bathing,  lishingand  shooting,  sailing  and  driving, 
bowling  and  billiards,  etc.,  and  grounds  for  tennis  and  cricket,  croquet 
and  base-ball.  Indian  guides  may  be  obtained  here.  There  is  no  piano 
in  the  main  building. 

Richibucto  and  The  Beaches  are  reached  only  by  the  Intercoloidal  Rail- 
way and  the  Kent  Northern  «&  St.  Louis  Railway. 

The  name  Richibucto  signifies  "  the  River  of  Fire,"  and  the  shores  of  the  riv(  r 
and  bay  were  formerly  inhnliitrd  t>y  a  ftnuiouH  and  hloodthirsty  triho  of  Indi  ii  . 
So  late  as  1787,  when  the  Anu'riran  Loyalist  Powell  fettled  here,  there  wtro  bit  foi  • 
Christian  families  (and  tli»v  were  Acadians)  in  all  thin  region  (the  present  (oiuity  (  f 
Kent).     The  power  of  the  llichibuctos  was  broken  in  1724,  when  all  their  warrior. , 


CHATHAM. 


RnUe  15.      61 


under  command  of  Arpmoosh  ("  the  Grent  Wizard  "),  attacked  Canso  and  captured 
17  MaMachusetts  veHHels.  Two  wolUinaiinctJ  VtiHwld  of  Bodtun  and  Capo  Ann  were 
sent  after  them,  and  oTertook  the  Indian  f1i>(>ton  the  roast.  A  desperate  naval  battle 
ensued  between  the  Ma«!*achusetts  sloops  and  the  Indian  prize-sliips.  The  Kichi- 
buctos  fought  with  great  valor,  but  were  finnlly  disconcerted  by  sliowera  of  hand- 
grenades  from  the  AniericanH,and  nearly  every  warrior  wa8  cither  killed  or  drowned. 

After  emerging  from  Hicliiliuc-to  harbor,  the  steamer  runs  N.  across  the 
opening  of  the  shallow  Koueliihougtiac  Hay,  whose  shores  arc  low  sand- 
bars and  beaches  which  enclose  shoal  lagoons.  5  M.  above  I'oint  Sapin  is 
Kscuminac  Point,  on  which  is  a  powerful  white  light,  visible  for  26  M. 
The  course  is  now  laid  more  to  th(^  W.,  across  the  Miramichi  Bay,  and  on 
the  1.  are  seen  the  pilots'  village  and  the  lighthouses  on  Preston's  Beach. 
The  entrance  to  the  Inner  Bay  of  Miramichi  is  between  Fox  Island  and 
I'ortage  Island,  the  latter  of  which  bears  a  lighthouse.  The  Inner  Bay  is 
13  M.  long  and  7-8  M.  wido,  and  on  the  S.  is  seen  Vin  Island,  back  of 
which  is  the  Bay  da  Vin.  Two  centuries  ago  all  this  shore  was  occupied 
by  French  settlements,  whoso  only  remnant  now  is  the  hamlet  of  Portago 
IJoad,  in  a  remote  corner  of  the  bay. 

When  about  9  M.  from  the  entrance,  the  steamer  passes  between  Point 
Quart  and  Grand  Dime  Islan<l  (on  the  r.),  which  are  3;^  M  ;ipart.  3-4 
M.  f{i';ther  on,  the  course  is  between  Oak  Point,  with  its  two  lighthouses 
(on  the  r.),  and  Cheval  Point,  beyond  which  is  the  populous  valley  of  the 
Napan  Hiver,  on  the  S.  The  hamlet  of  Black  lirook  is  visible  on  the  1., 
and  oir  Point  Napan  is  Sheldrake  Island,  a  low  imd  8wam[)y  land  lying 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  vessel  now  enters  the  Miramichi 
River,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Great  liartibog,  with  the  beacon- 
lights  on  Malcolm  Point.  The  Miramichi  is  hero  a  noble  stream,  fully 
1  M.  wide,  but  flowi?)g  between  low  ntid  uninteresting  shores. 

Chatham  (Adams  ffotiae  ;  Canada  ffouse)  is  the  chief  town  on  the  North 
iSliorc,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  5,000,  with  5  churches,  a  weekly 
newspaper,  and  a  Ma.souic  hall.  It  is  24  M.  from  the  sea,  and  is  built 
along  the  S.  shore  of  tlje  river  for  a  distance  of  U  M.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill  along  which  the  town  is  built  is  seen  a  great  pile  of  Catholic  in- 
stitutions, amouT  which  are  the  Cathedral  of  St  Michael,  the  convent  and 
hospital  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  de  Clliatham,  and  St.  Michael's  College.  These 
i)uil<lings,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  town,  are  of  wood.  The  chief  industries 
uf  Chatham  are  shipbuilding  and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber,  and 
the  river  here  usually  contains  several  large  ship?,  which  can  anchor  oil 
ilie  wharves  iu  ti-8  iuthums.     Uailroud  to  I'rederictou,  sue  page  4i. 

About  22  M.  beyond  Chatham  an»  the  head-waters  of  the  TabuHintac  RiTer 

'« tlie  >portsiuaii"«  paradise,"  a  uarrow  ttud  .sliallow  ^t^eam  iu  wUieli  an  abumlauee 
ot  trout  is  I'uuuil. 

Tri-weekiy  sta.es  run  fvuiu  Chatiiaiu  N.  E.  to  Oak  I'oitjt,   11   M.  ;  Burnt  Cliurel' 
20;  Neguac,2o;  Tal)U.MuUe,  37;  Tiueadie,  62;  I'o.kuioueue,  «J4  ;  ."^liippigau,  70;' 
and  Cariquetle  ^Luwor).  73.    Tiie  tir.^i  3  J  M.  oltnis  road  are  along  (or  ueur)   .lie  n! 
sliore  of  tae  Mirauiichi  iUver  uud  the  iuuer  llay,  by  the  hauilets  ol  Oak  Point  and 
Burnt  ChurcU. 


in 


!i 


62      Route  15. 


THE  MIRAMICHT. 


A  - 


Burnt  Church  Im  ntill  tho  rapital  of  the  Mlrmac  Indiana  of  the  Proyince,  and 
here  they  gather  in  great  nunibnrH  on  St.  Annc'H  Day  and  engage  in  religiouH  riti.s 
and  athletSc  sports  and  danri'H  Hon.  Artliur  (Sordon  navH;  "I  waa  Hurpriscd  hy 
the  ruriouK  rewniMuncw  lu'tween  ♦ln'Ke  dnnrps  and  those  of  tlie  lJre<'k  pt>ai»antry. 
Even  tho  roHtunicM  were  in  some  decree  siiiiiliir,  and  I  nctticed  more  than  one  Bliort 
colorcd-Hilk  jiirket  and  liandkercliief  bound  head  that  carried  me  itaek  to  Ithacu 
and  I'axo."'    (Vacation  'J'ol'kists,  18H3  ) 

TnliUHintac  (xmall  inn)  is  near  the  mouth  of  tlie  Tiihusint'ic  Iliver,  and  is  a 
Pn'shyti'rian  village  of  al»o»it  400  iniiaiiitantx,  most  of  wliom  are  eti^raged  in  the 
flHlicricH.  Many  large  pea-trout  arc  eaught  near  the  nuufh  of  the  river,  and  in 
October  immense  numberw  of  wild  g<'ese  and  du«  kn  are  f'lot  in  tho  adjacent  lagoons. 

Trai  aclie  is  a  nettlemont  vsliich  eontaiuH  1,2(0  Frenc  li  Aradians,  and  i.«  sitiiatol 
near  a  broad  lagoon  whirh  lieN  inside  a  line  of  Hand-barR.  Salmon,  cod,  nnd  herriiiL' 
are  found  in  the  adjacent  waters,  and  moflt  of  the  people  an'  engaged  in  the  fish- 
eries. Tho  Trarailie  Lazaretto  is  devoted  to  the  reception  of  persons  nfflirted  witli 
the  leprosy,  wljich  prevails  to  sonie  extent  in  tliis  district,  but  lias  diminished  since 
the  government  eerludod  tiie  lep<'rs  in  this  remote  liospital  There  is  an  old  tnwli- 
tion  that  the  leprosy  was  introduced  into  tliis  region  during  the  la?t  century,  when 
a  French  vessel  wan  wreckeil  on  the  coast,  some  of  whose  sailors  were  from  Mar- 
seilles and  had  contracted  the  true  elepfiavtinsis  ii;rf7rmum  (Kastern  leprosy)  in  the 
Levant.  Its  peri)t'tuation  and  hereditary  transmission  is  attributed  ».;  the  closencs.s 
of  the  ndation  in  which  intermarriage  is  sanctioned  among  the  Acadians  (sometimes 
by  dispensations  from  the  (Miurcii) 

Pockmouche  is  a  settlcnient  of  SfK)  Acadian  farmers,  and  here  the  mail-route 
forks,  —  one  road  running  (>  M.  N.  K  to  Shippigan  (see  page  tJ4),  the  other  run- 
ning i)  M.  N.  to  Lower  Caracjuette  (see  page  W;. 

River-steamers  run  up  the  N.  W.  and  S.  \V.  branches,  and  occasionally  to  Burnt 
Church  and  Uay  du  Vin.  Another  river-steamer  runs  up  the  river  four  times  daily 
to  Newcastle  (0  M.),  touching  at  l)ougla.-.town,  adiugy  village  on  the  N.  buuk,  where 
much  lumber  is  loaded  on  the  shii>s  which  tiike  it  lience  to  Euro|)e.  This  village 
contains  about  400  inhabitants,  and  has  u  murine  hospital,  built  of  etuue. 

Newcastle  (  WavtrUij  /Iol<  I)  h  the  capital  of  Norihuiuberlaud  Countv. 
and  is  situated  at  the  litad  ol  deep-water  navigation  on  the  IMlraniich. 
River.  It  has  about  1,500  inliabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding 
and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  hnnber,  oysters,  and  preserved  h>b8ters. 
One  of  the  ehief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Hailway  is  located  here,  and  a 
braneh  lin<  has  been  built  to  (Jhaiham.  150,000,000  ft.  of  lumber  are  ex- 
ported hence  annually.      There  are  5  churches  here. 

A  short  distance  above  Newcastle,  and  beyond  the  Irish  village  of  Nel- 
son, is  the  confluence  of  the  great  rivers  known  as  the  N.  W.  Miramiclii 
and  the  S.  W.  Miramiehi.  These  strenins  are  crossed  by  the  largest  and 
most  costly  bridges  on  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  Kailway.  The  njinic 
Miramiehi  signifies  "  Happy  Retreat,"  and  indicates  the  love  that  the  In- 
dians entertained  for  these  fine  hunting  and  fishing  grounds.  The  upper 
waters  of  the  rivers  traverse  wide  districts  of  unsettled  country,  and  an* 
visited  by  hardy  and  adventurous  sportsmen,  who  capture  large  numbers 
of  trout  and  salmon.  This  system  of  waters  is  connected  by  portages  witli 
the  Nepisiguit,  the  Restigouche,  the  U{)sul(iuitcli,  the  Tobique,  and  tlK? 
Nashwaak  Rivers.  The  best  salmon-pools  are  on  the  S.  W.  Miramiclr 
beyond  Hoiestown,  at  the  mouths  of  the  Salmon,  Rocky,  Clearwater,  and 
burnt  Hill  Brooks.  A  railway  runs  from  Chaiham  to  Boiestowu  and 
Kredericton  (see  page  47).  Steamboats  four  times  daily  from  Newca^tli; 
to  Chatham. 


SHIPPIGAN  ISLAND. 


Route  15.      63 


Beauhnir\%  Ixlarvt  W  off  upper  Neliion,  and  wm  formerly  oocupic*!  by  a  prosperous 
French  town,  but  few  re  11<;h  of  which  are  now  to  l>e  hih-u  It  wiw  ilerttro^e*!  by  a 
Britirih  naval  iittack  in  1759  A  colony  wam  planted  here  \n  1722,  un<U'r  i'anlinal 
Floury '.s  uiiniinistnition,  amj  was  provided  with  2(R>  honnert,  a  church,  and  a  10  guu 
battery. 

In  1(542-41  tlio  Mlraniichi  district  wjw  occupied  by  .Fean  .la<jucs  Knaud,  a  Hattquo 
f^entleiiian,  who  foiMided  tradiiif^-postH  on  the  i.-«liiMd.<i  an!  entered  also  upon  tliu 
walrus  rtsherlea.  Hut  a  contention  soon  Hrof*e  lietween  Ktiand's  men  ami  the  In- 
dians, by  rea.'^on  of  which  fin;  Ha>i|ne  e.-talilislnneiil->  were  destnned,  and  tlieir  jm**)- 
ple  were  forced  to  flee  to  \epi.>i)iuit  In  Itt72.  .ifter  the  Ti-eafy  of  Itreda,  several 
fuinilies  from  St.  Main  landed  on  this  coast  ami  fniinded  a  villaire  at  Hay  du  Vin. 
Kroni  174))  to  1757  a  Honrishintf  rrad«!  was  carried  on  between  tije  Mi.aniichi  country 
and  I"' ranee,  ureat  (piantities  (»f  furs  beinjf  exported.  Hut  the  crops  filled  in  1757, 
and  the  relief-ships  from  France  were  captured  by  tlie  Hritish.  In  the  wint^'r  of 
1758  the  transport  ////»r/*V«H^,  of  >lorl:dx,  was  \\re<k<Hl  in  the  bay,  and  the  dis- 
heartened colnnisfs,  fimished  and  pestilence-stiicken,  were  rapidly  depleted  by 
death  Many  of  the  French  >ef tiers  died  during  the  winter,  and  were  buried  mi 
lieaubair's  Point.  Those  who  sur\ivcd  tied  from  the  sceiu^of  such  bitter  sulTeriuK, 
and  by  the  arrival  of  spring?  there  were  not  threi-score  inhabitants  about  the  bay. 

In  1759  a  Hritish  war-vessel  entered  the  bay  for  wood  and  water,  and  the  fln*t 
boat's-crew  which  landed  was  cut  olf  an  I  exterminated  hy  the  Indians.  The  fri(i^ite 
bombarded  the  French  Fort  batteries,  and  annihilated  the  town  at  Canadian  (!ovo. 
Then  sailing  to  the  \.  K.,  tin*  connnander  landed  a  fon-e  at  Nenuac,  and  burnt  the 
Catholic  chapel,  tlie  inli  ihitants  havinfi  lied  to  the  woods.  Ne;;uac  is  known  to  thin 
day  only  by  the  name  of  Hurnt  Church.  After  this  fierce  foray  all  the  N.  coast  of 
New  Brunswick  was  de."<erted  and  relapsed  into  a  wilderness  .ofjite. 

In  1775  there  was  an  in>ii;ni(icimt  Scotch  trading  po>t  on  the  S.  W.  Miramldil, 
where  1,5<MJ  -  1 ,80<)  tierces  of  .salmon  were  caught  annually.  This  whs  once  surprise«l 
and  plundered  by  the  Indians  in  .sympathy  with  the  .\ni(>ricans,  but  in  1777  the 
river  wa-s  visited  by  the  sloop-of-war  Vii>fr  and  the  captured  American  privat«'er 
Lafayette.  The  American  Hag  was  displayed  on  tin;  latter  veH>el,  and  it  was  given 
out  that  her  crew  were  Hostonians,  by  which  means  .1')  Indi.-ins  from  the  great  coun- 
cil at  Hartibog  were  dwoyed  <m  board  and  carried  eaptivt;  to  QucIkm*. 

In  178f?  the  Scottish  settlers  opent-d  large  saw-nulls  on  the  .V.  W.  .Miramichi,  and 
Beverul  families  of  American  Loyalists  settle  1  along  the  shore.  Vast  numbers  of 
uifLsts  and  spars  were  sent  hence  to  the  Hiitidi  dock-;. ards,  and  the  growth  of  the 
Miramichi  was  rapid  and  .satisfactory.  In  17!''}  the  Indians  of  the  hill>  gtithered 
secretly  and  concerte<l  plans  to  exterminate  the  settlers  (wlio  had  n  ostly  taken 
refuge  in  Chatham),  bur.  X\u>  danger  was  averted  by  the  ititorpo-ition  of  the  French 
Catholic  priests,  who  c.auseil  the  Indians  to  dis|MT-e. 

In  October,  1825,  this  district  w.is  de.solateil  by  the  great  Miramichi  Fire,  which 
swept  over  ;3,00(»,(X)0  ar-res  of  forest,  and  destroyed  .S  1.M(M>,(MI0  worth  uX  property  and 
160  human  lives.  The  town  of  Newca-itle  w.is  laid  in  .Hhes,  and  all  tlu!  lower  Mi- 
ramichi Valley  became  a  blackened  wilderness.  The  only  escape  for  lite  was  by 
rushing  into  the  rivers  while  t'l"  storm  of  fire  pa.«s.''ed  •>verliead  :  and  here,  nearly 
covered  by  tlie  hi.ssing  waters,  were  men  and  women,  the  wild  animals  of  the  woods, 
and  the  domestic  bea.stti  of  the  farm. 

On  loiiviiij;  the  Minunichi  Kiver  and  Buy  tho  vossol  stonins  out  into  the 
(iiilf,  loiiviiip;  on  the  X.  W.  tlie  low  sliorcs  of  ralMislntnc  and  Trat'adie,  In- 
dented i»y  wide  and  shalNtw  ln;;oons  (see  pap;e  02).  Al^er  running  ahont 
35  .M.  the  low  red  cliffs  of  Shippigan  Island  are  seen  on  the  \V.  This 
island  is  12  M.  long  liy  8  M.  wide,  and  is  iidnil)ited  by  Acadian  fislicnneii. 
On  the  S.  W.  .shore  i.s  the  handet  of  Alexander  I'oint,  on  Alemrk  Hav, 
opposite  the  populous  village  and  tnaginlicent  liarhordf  NAi/YxV/an.  Tlieri? 
m-e  valinihle  fisheries  of  herring,  cod,  and  niai'ker(d  <>lf  these  shore.*,  and 
the  deep  triple  harbor  is  well  sludtered  by  the  islands  of  Shippigan  and 
Porksnedio,  fonnincr  a  secure  haven  of  refnirc  for  the  American  and  Cana^ 
dinn  fleets.     Noble  wild-dnck  shooting  In  rf  in  spring  and  fall. 


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64      Route  15. 


BAY  OF  CHALEUR. 


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Shlppigan  Harbor,  though  still  surrounded  by  forests,  has  occupied  a  prom- 
inent place  in  the  calculations  of  commerce  and  travel.  It  has  been  vropased  that 
the  Intercolonial  Railway  shall  connect  here  with  a  transatlantic  steamship  line, 
thus  withdrawing  a  large  portion  of  the  summer  travel  from  Halifax  and  New  York. 
The  distance  from  8hippigan  to  Liverpool  by  tlic  Straits  of  Dcllcisle  is  148  M.  less 
than  the  distance  from  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  and  8hippigan  is  271  M.  nearer  Montreal 
than  is  Halifax. 

The  Ocean  Ferry.  —  The  following  plan  is  ingeniously  elaborated  and  pow- 
erfully supported,  and  is  perhaps  destined  to  reduce  the  transatlantic  passage  to 
100  hours.  It  is  to  be  carried  out  with  strong,  swift  express  steamers  on  the  Ocean 
and  the  Gulf,  and  through  trains  on  the  railways.  The  itinerary  is  as  follow?  : 
London  to  Valentia,  640  M.,  10  hours  ;  Valentia  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  1,640  M.,  100 
hours;  St.  John's  to  St.  George's  Bay  (across  Newfoundland  by  railway)  250  M., 
8i  hours;  St.  George'.s  Bay  to  Shippigan  (jicross  the  Gulf),  260  M.,  \b^  hours; 
Shippigaii  to  New  York,  906  M.,  31  hours  ;  Ijondon  to  New  Vork,  171  hours,  or  7; 
days.  It  is  claimed  that  this  route  would  escajic  the  dangers  between  Cape  Race 
and  New  York  ;  would  give  usually  quiet  passages  across  the  Gulf;  would  diversify 
the  monotony  of  the  long  voyage  by  three  transfers,  and  would  save  4-6  days  on 
the  recorded  averages  of  the  steamships  between  New  York  and  Liverpool  (see  maps 
and  details  in  Sandford  Fleming's  ''  Intercolonial  Railway  Survey'-). 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  Miscou  Banks,  and  approaches  Misoou 
Island,  which  is  20  M.  in  circumference  and  contains  about  300  inhab- 
itants. On  its  S.  shore  is  a  fine  and  spacious  harbor,  which  is  much  used 
as  H  place  of  refuge  in  stormy  weather  by  the  American  fishing-fleet8. 

Settlements  were  formed  here  early  in  the  17th  century  by  the  French,  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  the  walrus,  or  sea-cow.  Such  an  exttsrminating  war  was  waged 
upon  this  valuable  aquatic  animal  that  it  soon  became  extinct  in  the  Gulf,  and  was 
followed  into  the  Arctic  Zone,  Within  five  years  a  few  walruses  have  been  seen  in 
the  Gulf,  and  it  is  hoi>ed  that  th<'y  may  once  more  enter  the.«e  waters  in  droves.  At 
an  early  date  the  Jesuits  established  the  mission  of  St.  Charles  dc  Mis-cov.,  but  the 
priests  were  soon  killed  by  the  climate,  and  no  impression  had  been  made  on  the 
Indians.  It  is  claimed  that  then;  may  still  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  post  of  the  Royal 
Company  of  Miscou,  which  was  founded  in  1635  for  the  pursuit  offish  and  walruses, 
and  for  a  time  derived  a  great  revenue  from  this  district.  Fortifications  were  also 
erected  here  by  M.  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac. 

The  steumer  alters  her  course  gradually  to  the  W.  and  passes  the 
fixed  red  light  on  Birch  Point,  and  Point  IMiscou,  with  its  high  green 
knoll.  Between  Point  Miscou  and  Cape  Despair,  25  M.  N.,  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  Bay  of  Chaleur. 


The  Bay  of  Chaleur  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of  Ecketuam 
Nemaache,  signifying  "a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  that  name  is  still  applicable, 
since  the  bay  contains  every  variety  of  lish  known  on  these  coasts.  It  is 
90  M.  long  and  from  10  to  25  M.  wide,  and  is  nearly  free  from  shoals  or 
dangerous  reefs.  The  waters  are  comparatively  tranquil,  and  the  air  is 
clear  and  bracing  and  usually  free  from  fog,  aflbrding  a  marked  contrast 
to  the  climate  of  the  adjacent  Gulf  coasts.  The  tides  are  regular  and  have 
but  little  velocity.  The  length  of  the  bay,  from  Point  Miscou  to  Camp- 
bellton,  is  about  110  M.  These  waters  are  visited  every  year  by  great 
American  fleets,  manned  by  the  hardy  seamen  of  Cape  Cod  and  Glouce  - 
ter,  and  valuable  cargoes  of  fish  are  usually  carried  back  to  the  Massa- 
chusetts ports. 


BATHURST. 


Route  15.       65 


This  bay  was  discovered  by  Jaques  Cartier  in  the  summer  of  153o,  and,  from  the 
fact  that  the  heated  season  was  at  its  height  at  that  time,  he  named  it  La  Bale  dea 
Chaleurs  (tl»e  Hay  of  Heats).  On  the  « arliost  maps  it  is  also  called  La  Bait'  des 
Espagnols,  indicating  that  it  was  frequented  by  Spanish  vessels,  probably  for  the 
purposes  of  fishing.  — 

In  these  waters  is  located  the  scene  of  the  old  lo3:end  of  the  Massachusetts  coast, 
relative  to  Skipper  Iresou's  misdeed,  which,  with  the  record  of  its  punishment,  has 
been  commemorated  in  the  poetry  of  Whittier :  — 


"  Small  pity  for  hfm  I  —  He  sailed  away 
From  a  Ical^ing  ship  in  Chaleur  Bay,  — 
Sailed  away  from  a  sinking  wreck. 
With  liis  own  towns-people  on  her  deck  I 
'  Lay  by  !  lay  by  : '  they  called  to  him  ; 
Back  he  answered, '  Sink  or  swim  : 
Brag  of  your  catc^h  of  lish  again  ! ' 
And  off  he  sailed  through  the  fog  and  rain. 
Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  his  liard  heart. 
Tarred  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a  cart 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead. 


'  Fathoms  deep  in  dark  Chaleur 
That  wreck  shall  lie  forevermore. 
Mother  and  sister,  wife  and  maid. 
Looked  from  the  rocks  of  Marblehead 
Over  the  moaning  and  rainy  sea,— 
Looked  for  the  coming  i hat  might  not  be ! 
What  did  the  winds  and  the  sea-birds  say 
Of  the  rruel  captain  who  sailed  away  ?  — 
Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  his  hard  heart, 
Ta'rcd  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a  cart 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead." 


Miscou  has  the  l)est  shoot ii  ^  in  Canada  :  plover  in  Auif.  and  Sept.  ; 
geese,  ducks,  and  brant  in  Sept.,  Oct.,  and  Nov,  The  Mai-Bay  marshes 
are  the  best  place.  Guides  ami  canoes,  $la  day-  Fredcricton  to  Chat- 
ham Junction,  107  M. ;  thence  on  Intercolonial  Railway  to  Gloucester 
Junction,  -iS  M.;  thence  on  (Jaraquet  Ry.  (see  pa^e  Wt\,  50  M.  to  Caraquet; 
whence  club-boat  15  M.  to  Miscou.    Address  D.  Lee  Babbitt,  Fredericton. 

Bathurst  (Ktary  House),  the  capital  of  Gloucester  County,  has  1,200 
inhabitants,  and  stands  on  a  peninsula  2\  ^I.  from  the  bay.  Large  quan- 
tities of  fish  are  sent  hence  to  the  Amorioan  cities;  and  the  exportation  of 
frozen  salmon  has  become  an  in^portant  bu'^inees.  Tlio  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way has  a  station  near  Batlmrst.  The  beautiful  Basin  (if  Bathurst  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  four  rivers,  and  its  shores  are  already  well  populated 
by  farmers.  Pleasant  drives  and  sailing  routes  ami'^.  lovelv  scenery  abound 
hereabouts,  and  give  Bathurst  a  summer-resort  air.  It  is  .3  M.  to  the  fine 
beach  of  Alston  Point,  near  wiiich  there  are  farm  boarding-houses. 

The  Basin  of  Bathurst  was  called  by  the  Indians  Winkapi^nwick,  or  Nepiani^uit, 
signifying  the  "  Foaming  Waters."  It  was  occupied  in  lf)38  by  M.  Knaud,  a  wealthy 
Basque  gentleman,  and  his  retainers,  forming  a  town  called  St  Pierre.  Enaud  mar- 
ried a  Mohawk  princess,  founded  mills,  and  established  an  extensive  fur-trade,  erect- 
ing a  commodious  iiian.'^ion  at  Abshaboo  (foal  Poinf),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nepisiguit. 
But  some  fimily  troubles  ensued,  ami  >l:i(laine  Kiiaud's  brother  slew  her  husband, 
after  which  tlie  French  settlements  were  plunih".cd  by  the  Indians,  and  such  of  the 
iuliabitants  as  could  not  escape  l)y  way  of  tlu^  sea  were  uuis.>*acred. 

By  1670  the  Chaleur  shores  were  aj^ain  studded  wifh  French  hamlets,  and  occu- 
pied by  an  industrious  farming  population.  In  lilfi  the  Micmacs  confederated 
against  them,  and,  under  the  command  <f  tiie  sagimiore  lliiion,  completely  devas- 
tated the  whole  (Ustrict  and  compelled  tlu"  s«'tfler-*  to  fly  to  Canada.  Thenceforward 
for  74  years  this  country  wa.s  nnvisit4>d  by  iMinipeans.  lu  17()4  a  Scotch  tniding- 
post  and  fort  was  erected  at  Alston  Point,  on  the  .N  shore  of  Bathurst  harbor,  and 
thence  were  exported  great  (luantities  ot  furs,  moose-skins,  walrus  hides  and  tusks, 
and  salmon.  In  177*»  this  flourishing  settlement  was  destroyed  by  American  priva- 
teers, which  al,><o  de\astated  the  other  shores  of  Chaleur.  The  pre.s«'nt  town  was 
founded  in  1818  by  Sir  Howard  Douglas,  and  was  named  in  lionor  of  the  Earl  of 
Bathurst. 

The  Nenislgnit  River  empties  into  Bathurst  harbor,  and  is  famous  for 
its  fine  fishing.    The  riparian  owners  have  soul  their  fishing  rights  to  Bos* 

K 


■.  w 


66     Route  in. 


CAUA(2UETTE. 


^r 


ton  people,  and  to  the  Nepip'guit  Angling  Club  of  St.  John,  N.  B.,  from 
whom  a  fishing  permit  m^^y  be  bought.  A  road  ascends  for  35  M., 
passing  the  Hough  Waters,  the  bi  illiant  rapids  of  the  Pabineau  Falls  (9  M. 
up),  the  dark  ^lools  of  the  Betaboc  reach,  the  Chain  of  Rocks,  and  the 
Narrows.  The  *  Grand  Falls  of  the  Nepisiguit  are  20  M.  above  Bathurst, 
and  consist  of  4  distinct  and  step-like  cliffs,  with  a  total  height  of  140  ft. 
They  are  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows,  where  the  river  flows  for  3-4  M. 
through  a  canon  between  high  cliffs  of  slaty  rock.  The  river  boldly  takes 
the  leap  over  this  Tiiaiiic  stairway,  and  the  ensuing  roar  is  deafening, 
while  the  base  of  the  cliff  is  shrouded  in  white  spray.  From  the  i)rofound 
depths  at  the  foot  the  river  whirls  away  in  a  black  and  foam-flecked 
cour  e  for  2  M. 

"Good  by,  lovely  Nepisiguit,  htreaiii  of  the  beautiful  pools,  the  fisherman's 
elysium;  farewell  to  thy  iiicrry,  noisy  current,  thy  long  quiet  stretches,  thy  high 
bluffs,  thy  wooded  and  thy  rooky  shores.  Long  may  thy  music  lull  the  innocent 
angler  into  day-dreams  of  happiness.  Long  may  thy  romantic  scenery  charm  the 
eye  and  gladden  the  heart  of  the  artii-t,  and  welcome  the  angler  to  a  happy  sylvan 
home."    (Roosevelt.) 

The  *  Grand  Falls  of  the  Tete-;\-gouche  River  are  about  8  M.  W.  of  Bathurst,  and 
may  be  visited  by  carriage.  The  river  here  falls  about  30  ft.,  amid  a  wild  confusion 
of  rocks  and  cliffs. 

The  Caraqtiet  Railway  runs  N.K.  from  (Jloucester .Junction  to  iinthurst, 
5M.;  Salmon  Beach,  !)M.;  .laneville,  18;  Canobie,  20;  Clifton,  21 ;  Stone- 
haven, 23;  New  Bandon,  25;  Pockshaw,  28;  Grand  Anse,  31;  Upper 
Caraquet,  46;  Caratiuet,  50;  Lower  Caracpiet,  ;"■).•{;  Pokemouche.  ()2;  Snip- 
pegan  (Taylor's  Hiiti'l),'!^).  (See  also  page  (14.)  Tins  road  follows  the 
shores  of  the  Nepisiguit  Bay  and  gives  frcfpu-iit  l)oautifiil  nir.rine  views  over 

the  Bay  of  Chalour  for  nearly  30  M.     The  hamlets  of  Clifton  (small  inn) 

and  Neio  Bandon  wore  settled  by  Irish  immigrants,  and  are  now  etgaged 

in  milking  grindstones.     Pockshaw  has  an  inn  and  about  GOO  inhabitants. 

Grand  Anse  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  who  are 

engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.   TI  ence  the  road  runs  8  M.  S.  K.  to  Upper 

Carnquette,  where  there  are  about  600  Acadians.     Lower  Caraquttte  (two 

inns)  is  a  French  village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  strong, 

swift  boats  and  skilful  mariners. 

Caraquette  was  founded  in  1768  by  a  colony  of  Bretons,  and  owed  a  part  of  its 
early  growth  to  intermarriages  with  the  Micmacs.  It  is  a  long  street  of  farms  in  th3 
old  Acadian  style,  and  is  situated  in  a  fruitful  and  well-cultivnted  country.  The 
view  from  the  hills  over  the  village,  and  especially  from  the  still  \cnerated  spot 
where  the  old  chapel  stood,  is  very  pleasant,  and  incli"les  Miscou  and  Sj^hiitpigan, 
the  Qaspe  ports,  and  the  bold  Quebec  shores.  The  .lersey  house  of  Robin  &  Co. 
has  one  of  its  fisliing-<'Stablishments  hert*,  and  dies  a  large  i)usiness. 

Caraquette  is  one  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  \.  shore  fisheries  In  the  year  1873 
the  fish  product  of  the  three  lower  Maritime  Provinces  amounted  to  the  value  of 
$9,0>j0,342.  Nova  Scotia  cnuglit  .S(i.577.(»86  wortli  offish;  and  New  Brunswick 
caught  .«!)!  2,285,6150  wortli,  of  wliich  .*!  527,312  were  of  salmon,  (P  500,306  of  herring, 
*34(V>26  of  lobsters,  $83S.6m>  of  codfish,  ifp  108,514  of  alewives,  8?l»O,065  of  hake, 
^«)4,396  of  pollock,  $  45,480  of  oysters,  .«41.85i  of  smelt,  and  *  35,477  of  mackerel. 

The  line  of  the  highway,  and  the  noble  viewing  railway  track  (with  sevuial  sta- 
tions) follow  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to  the  N,  W.  to  Medlsco  :  Rochette,  12  M.  ; 
Belledune,  20;  Belledune  River,  24  ;  Armstrong's  Brook,  28;  River  Louison,  33; 
New  Mills,  38 ;  River  ('harlo,  44  ;  and  Dalhousie,  52.  Medtsco  and  Rochette  are 
French  villages  ;  the  others  arc  of  British  origin,  and  none  of  them  have  us  uiauy 


DALHOUSFE. 


Route  15.       67 


as  500  inhabitants.  Many  small  streams  enter  the  bay  trova  this  coast,  ^nd  the 
whole  district  is  famous  for  its  fishing  and  hunting  (water-fowl).  The  Hd.  of  this 
shore  is  followed  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

Oft'  Batliurst  the  Bay  of  Chalcur  is  over  25  M.  wide,  and  the  steamer 
passes  out  and  takes  a  course  to  tlio  N.  VV.,  passing  tiie  hanile*:  of  Kochette, 
and  soon  rounding  Belledune  Point.  Tlie  imposing  highlands  of  the  Gas- 
pesian  peninsula  are  seen  on  the  N.  with  the  peak  of  Tracadiegash.  The 
passage  between  Tracadiegash  Point  and  Heron  Isi-.nd  is  about  7  M.  wide; 
and  6-8  M.  beyond  the  steamer  passes  Maguaci  a  I'oint  {Maguacha,  In- 
dian for  "Always  Red")  on  the  r.,  and  enters  the  Restigouciie  Harbor. 

"  To  the  person  approaching  by  steamer  from  the  sea,  is  presented  one  of  the 
most  superb  and  fascinating  panoramic  views  in  Canada.  The  whole  region  is 
mountainous,  and  almost  precipitous  enough  to  be  alpine;  but  its  grandeur  is 
derived  less  from  cliffs,  chasms,  and  iioaks,  tluin  from  far-reaching  sweeps  of  out- 
line, and  continually  rising  domes  that  mingle  with  the  clouds.  On  the  Gasp6 
side  precipitous  cliffs  of  brick-rod  sandstone  tlank  tiie  shore,  so  lofty  that  they 
8t'cm  to  cast  their  gloomy  shadows  half-way  across  the  Bay,  and  yawning  with 
rifts  and  gullies,  through  which  fretful  torrents  tumble  into  tlie  sea.  Behind 
them  the  mountains  rise  and  full  in  long  undulations  of  ultmmarine,  and,  tow- 
('  ing  above  them  all,  is  the  famous  peak  of  Tracadiegash  flashing  in  the  sunlight 
like  a  pale  blue  amethyst.''     (IIallock.) 

Dalhonsie  (Murphy^s  ffotet),  a  village  of  six  hundred  inhabitants,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  long  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  is  the  capital  of  Restigouche 
County  (see  page  60).  It  faces  on  the  harbor  from  three  sides,  and  has 
great  facilities  for  commerce  and  for  handling  lumber.  The  manufacture 
and  exportation  of  lumber  are  here  carried  on  on  a  large  scale;  and  tho 
town  is  also  famous  for  its  shipments  of  lobsters  and  salmon.  The  salmon 
fisljorif's  in  this  vicinity  aic  of  groat  value  and  prodiictivencss.  Tho  Inter- 
colonial Railway  has  m  short  branch  to  Dalhouyic  station.  Tho  site  of 
this  port  was  called  Sickadomec  by  the  Indians.  50  years  ago  there  were 
hut  two  log-houses  here,  but  the  district  was  soon  occupied  by  hardy 
Highlanders  from  Arran,  whose  new  port  and  metropolis  was  "located  in 
an  alpine  wilderness."  Pirectly  back  of  the  village  is  Jft,  Dalhousie, 
and  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  high  shores  of  Dalhousie  Island. 

The  Inch  Arran  House  ($10-15  a  week)  is  a  fashionable  summer-hotel,  1     M. 

from  Dalliuubie,  upcmu  in  la-ij,  oii  the  beacn,  wuh  boaLinij,  batUmg,  uowlmg,  tennis, 
biliiaids,  tic.   Open  J une  16  to  Sept.  id.    Orana  scenery,  ana  irout  and  Haluiuu  tLshing. 

'*  The  Bay  of  Cbaleur  preserves  a  river-like  character  for  some  distance  fVom  the 
point  where  the  river  may  strictly  bo  said  to  terminate,  and  certainly  offers  the 

iiiojt  beautiful  scenery  to  be  seen  in  the  Province From  Mr,  Fraser's  to  the 

sea,  a  distance  of  some  20  M  by  water,  or  14  by  land,  the  course  of  the  river  is 
reaUy  beautiful.  Swollen  to  diuiensions  of  majestic  breadth,  it  Hows  calmly  on, 
among  picturesque  and  lofty  hills,  uJidisturbed  by  r.ipiJs,  and  studded  with  in- 
numerable islands  covered  with  the  richest  growth  of  elm  and  m:iplc Tho 

whole  of  tho  distance  from  Campbiillton  to  l).iliioii.-<ie,  a  drivt*  of  17  M.  along  tlie  coa"<t 
of  tho  Bay  of  Chaleur,  on  au  excellent  high-road,  presents  a  succession  of  he  iuiif;il 
views  across  the  narrow  bay, in  which  Traculieg  isii,  one  of  the  highest  of  tlie<Jasp6 
mountains,  always  forms  a  consi)icuous  object,  jutting  forward  as  it  docs  into  tue 
sea  below   Dalhousie,''      (Hon.  Arthur  Gordon) 

'*  Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  approach  to  the  estuary  of 
the  ilestigouche.  The  pointed  hills  in  tho  background,  the  deep  green  forest  with 
its  patches  of  cultivation,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  distant  mountains,  form  a  pic- 
ture of  the  most  exquisite  kind."    (Sir  R.  Bonnycastle.) 


68      Jioute  15. 


CAMPBELLTON. 


( 


im<u 


11 


"The  expanse  of  three  miles  across  the  mouth  of  the  Restigouche,  the  dreamy 
alpine  land  beyond,  and  the  broad  plain  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  present  one  of  the 
most  splendid  and  fascinating  panoramic  pros|ie<«fc<  to  be  foun<i  on  the  continent  of 
America,  and  has  alone  rewarded  us  for  the  pilgrimage  we  have  made."  (Charles 
Lanmak.) 

The  estuary  of  the  Restigouche  is  2-4  M.  wide,  and  extends  from  Dal- 
housie  to  Campbellton,  abnut  16  M.  Point  a  la  Garde  is  9  M.  above  Dal- 
hottsie  on  the  N.  shore,  and  is  a  bold  perpendicular  promontory  overlooliing 
the  harbor.  On  this  and  Battery  Point  (the  next  to  the  W.)  were  the 
extensive  French  fortifications  which  were  destroyed  by  Admiral  Bj-ron's 
British  squadron  in  1780.  Several  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  relics  have 
been  obtained  from  the  water  oft'  these  points.  Battery  Point  is  a  ro«ky 
promontory  80  ft.  high,  with  a  plain  on  the  top,  and  a  deep  channel  around 
its  shores.  Point  Pleasant  is  4  M.  distant,  and  1  M.  back  is  a  spiral  mass 
of  granite  700  ft.  high,  which  is  accessible  by  natural  steps  on  the  E.  \h 
M.  from  this  peak  is  a  pretty  forest-lake,  in  which  red  trout  are  abundant. 
5  M.  N.  of  Point  a  la  Garde  is  the  main  peak  of  the  Scaumenac  Mts.,  which 
attains  an  altitude  of  1,745  ft. 

Campbellton  {Northern  Home)  is  in  a  diversified  region  of  hills  at 
the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  on  the  Kestigouche,  which  is  here  1  M. 
wide. 

One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  lo- 
cated hero.  The  adjacent  country  is  highly  picturescpie,  and  is  studded 
with  conical  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  Sugar  Loaf,  900  ft.  high. 

Mission  Point  is  nearly  opposite  Campbellton,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine 
hill-scenery,  which  has  been  likened  to  that  of  Wales.  The  river  is  rapid 
oft*  these  shores,  and  abounds  in  salmon.  This  place  is  also  known  as 
Point-a-la-Croix,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  villages  and  reservations  of  the 
Micmac  Indians.     It  has  about  BOO  inhabitants,  with  a  Catholic  church. 

The  Micmac  language  is  said  to  be  a  dialect  of  the  Huron  tongue  ;  while  the  Mili- 
cetes,  on  the  St.  John  River,  speak  a  dialect  of  Delaware  origin.  These  two  tribes 
have  an  annual  council  at  Mist^ion  Point,  at  which  delegates  from  the  Penob.«cot 
Indians  are  in  attendance.  The  Micmac  nation  occupies  the  wat^te  places  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces,  from  Newfoundland  to  Gaspti,  and  numbers  over  (),(:00  souls. 
These  Indians  are  daring  and  tireless  hunters  and  fishermen,  and  lead  a  life  of  con- 
stant roving,  gathering  ainiually  at  the  local  capitals,  —  Chjipel  Island,  in  Cape 
Breton:  Ponhook  Lake, in  Nova  Scotia  ;  and  Missiion  Point,  in  Quebec.  They  are 
increasing  steadily  in  numbei's,  jiiiil  are  becoming  more  valuable  members  of  the 
Canadian  nation.  They  have  hardly  yet  recovered  from  the  terrible  defeat  which 
was  inflicted  on  them  by  an  invading  army  of  Mohawks,  in  \y\2fd.  The  tiower  of  the 
Maritime  tribes  hastened  to  the  border  to  repel  the  enemy,  but  they  were  met  by 
the  Mohawks  in  the  Restigouche  country,  and  were  anniliilated  on  the  field  of 
battle. 

The  chief  of  the  Micmacs  at  Mi.«sion  Point  visiteil  Queen  Victoria  in  1850,  and  was 
kindly  welcomed  ai:d  received  miiny  presents.  When  l^ord  A^lnier,  Governor-Gen- 
eral of  Canada,  vis-ited  tta>'ix\  he  was  waited  on  by  5(lO  Indi.ins,  whose  chief  made 
him  a  long  harangue.  But  the  triVie  had  recently  rec  overed  from  a  wreck  (among 
other  things)a  box  nf  decaiiter-liibels,  marked  ItuM,  Uranpv,  Gin, etc.,  and  the  noble 
chief,  not  knowini^  their  purport,  had  adorned  his  ears  and  nose  with  them,  and 
surrounded  his  head  with  a  crown  of  the  same  materials.  )Vhen  the  British  officers 
recognized  the  familiar  nnmes,  they  burst  into  such  a  p<^al  of  laughter  as  drove  the 
astonished  and  incensed  chief  from  their  presence  forever. 


RESTIGOUCHE  RIVER. 


Hflute  IG.       G9 


3  M.  above  Mission  Point  is  Point  au  Botirdo,  the  ancient  site  of  La 
Petite  Rochelle,  deriving  its  present  name  from  Capt.  Bourdo,  of  the  French 
frigate  Marchault,  who  was  killed  in  the  battle  off  this  point  and  was 
buried  here.  Fragments  of  the  French  vessels,  old  artillery,  camp  equip' 
ments,  and  shells  have  been  found  in  great  numbers  in  this  vicinity. 

In  1760  Restigouche  was  cleftmdcil  by  2  batteries,  gfirrisone<i  by  250  French  regu- 
lars, 700  Aoadians,  and  700  Indians;  and  in  tiie  h;irl)«)i-  liy  the  French  war-veasels 
Marchault,  32,  Bifnfnisant,  22,  and  Martinis  Mar.'oi/e,  IS,  with  19  prize-ships  wlilch 
had  been  captured  from  the  English.  Tlie  place  was  attjicked  by  a  powerful  British 
fleet,  consisting  of  the  Fam^,  74,  Dorsrtshire,  Scarborough,  Achilles,  a.nd  Repulse,  nil 
under  the  command  of  Commodore  John  Byron  (grandfather  of  the  poet.  Lord  By- 
ron). But  little  resistance  was  attempted;  and  the  French  fleet  and  batteries  sur- 
rendered to  their  formid:ible  antagonist.  The  captured  ships  were  oarried  to  Louis- 
bourg,  and  the  batteries  and  the  200  houses  of  Ilestigouche  were  destroyed. 

The  Kestigouche  River  is  a  stately  stream  which  is  navigable  for  135 
M.  above  Campbellton.  It  runs  through  level  lands  for  several  miles  above 
its  mouth,  and  then  is  enclosed  between  bold  and  rugged  shores.  There 
are  hundreds  of  low  and  level  islands  of  a  rich  and  yearly  replenished  soil; 
and  above  the  Tomkedgwick  are  wide  belts  of  intervale.  30  M.  from  its 
mouth  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Metapedia  River,  flowing  down  from 
the  Metis  Mts.  r  and  35  M.  from  the  mouth  is  the  confluence  of  the  trout- 
abounding  Upsalquitch.  21  M.  farther  up  is  the  mouth  of  the  Patapedia; 
and  20  M.  beyond  this  point  the  Tomkedgwick  comes  in  from  the  N.  W. 
This  system  of  waters  drains  over  6,000  square  miles  of  territory,  and  is 
connected  by  portages  with  the  streams  which  lead  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
and  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  The  Restigouche  is  famous  for  its  great  and 
gamy  salmon,  and  for  trout,  the  fisheries  being  owned  by  wealthy  clubs, 
largely  of  Americans. 

The  Metapedia  Road  leaves  the  N.  shore  of  the  Restigouche  a  few  miles 
above  Campbellton,  and  strikes  through  the  forest  to  the  N.  W.  for  the  St. 
Lawrence  River.  This  is  the  route  of  the  new  Intercolonial  Railway, 
which  passes  up  through  the  wilderness  to  St.  Flavie.  The  distance  from 
Campbellton  to  St.  Flavie  is  106  M.,  and  the  railway-fare  isJi>3.  This 
road  leads  across  the  barren  highlands  of  Gasp^,  and  through  one  of  the 
most  thinly  settled  portions  of  Canada., 

The  French  humlet  of  St.  Alexia  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Metapedia 
River.  Mttnpedia  is  15  M.  above  Campbellton,  and  is  situated  amid  the 
l)retty  scenery  at  the  confluence  of  the  Metapedia  and  Restigouche  River«. 
The  salmon-fisheries  in  this  vicinity  attract  enthusiastic  sportsmen  every 
year.  Near  the  confluence  is  the  old  Fraser  mansion,  famous  among  the 
travellers  of  earlier  days,  and  now  pertaining  to  the  Restigouche  Salmon 
Club.  The  Intercolonial  Railwav  crosses  the  Hestiirourhe  in  this  vicinitv, 
and  has  a  station  at  Metapedia.     60  M.  beyond  is  Metapedia  Lake. 

The  Metapedia  Lake  is  12  M.  long  by  2  >L  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by 
low  shores  of  litnestone,  above  and  beyond  which  are  distant  ranges  of 
highlands.    Its  waters  abound  in  tuladi  (gray  trout),  trout,  and  white-fish. 


'I- 


.1- 


70       Route  10.  ST.  JOHN   TO   HALIFAX. 


* 


iin<i  nll'onl  gtnul  uportiiig.  Tho  lako  roiitiiiiis  ii  largo  IhIiuuI,  rtlilch  I.»i  u 
favorito  brootliiip-plsu'o  oC  Ioomn. 

<SV.  AVfTf/f  (two  iiu»f»)  is  n  villjigtMif  4r»0  I'ltMU'h  pooplo,  Hitiuitcd  on  tho 
S.  slioro  of  tlu'  h'ivoc  St.  l,!i\vioiic(M\!iil  i^  tlit>  point  ulicrn  llio  liiti'n'oloninl 
Kailwny  loMolu's  (lio  viv(M- !u\(l  tmuH  to  tlic  S.  W.  townnls  (juicIku'. 

\Vh\  KimonsKi.  iind  othoi*  sl;i(ioiis  aloiif^-  tlic  St.  Lawrwiico,  uro  doooribod 
on  pagos  2r>0  2r>4. 


iE 


it 


16.    St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

Tl»<»  mittr  trnvorw!*  tho  S.  K.  o«>\in(li'n  of  N«>\v  llrmiHwIcU,  ptiHsos  Mio  If«t1»nm(«  nt 
f.lu' lu»H«l  of  Hh' Hn\  «>f  Knthlx ,  Miiti  iiHor  rm^sinn  llic  ('iiluM|uiil  MIm.  inid  niniulitiK 
tl»o  bond  of  ("olHHjuitl  Uav.  imhis  S.  \\ .  (o  tho  <'it.v  of  Ilitlifnx.  It  tnivci-NOH  Hoinr  lii- 
tonKstiMK  »nsti'i<'tf*  Juul  iu\n  M  few  ulinipsos  of  iillrin  (iv«>  hitikm'v,  l>ut  Mh>  vU'wh  »in» 
pxMU>n«ll.v  monotonous  nnd  willmnt  imv  striUiii);  lu'ioMioM.  Dnrliim'iilin  itnd  pIciiHiint 
voatluT  <li«»  (rsnollrr  will  (IniHlio  Anna|)olls  lonto  (^hi'c  llouto  IS)  \\\\\v\\  llu>  ploan- 
nn(»>r  «.•«>  <<>  ^x*  fVon>  S( .  ,l<>hn  to  11  'lifax. 

Thoix>  is  no  i<l)»n>i:<>  of  »'«i>  lii>t\vi<iMi  St.  .lohn  inul  IlMlifax,  iiml  Imiffriip'  In  (  IhtUoiI 
thn>u>i;h  l>urin)i  tho  snninior  tlicro  is  m  diiv  (<xpit>ss  trnlii.  loiivlng  St.  John  at  7 
A.  M.,  and  duo  at  llaliliix  at  7.1(>  i'.  M. ;  and  ii  nl)jlit  «'X|tn'ss,  ioaving  St.  .lohn  at  H  .'JO 
r.  M.,  and  «ini>  at  Halifax  at  i>  v.  m.     IMilinian-oars  havo  boon  inti-ndnood  on 

thia  lino. 

Strtllonii.  — -St.  .lohn  :  Moiv^'pnth,  J{  IM. ;  Ihonkvillo,  5;  Tornhnrn,  t? ;  Hlvor- 
"Ido,  7  ;  llothosa>, '.♦ ;  Quispan\si.'-.  Ill ;  Nan\vin'»>\\auk,  17  ;  llMin)it()n.'.i!'2  ;  riismkoiij?, 
2(> ;  nioonit^old.  '27;  Ncrttin.  iVi ;  Apoha()ui,  Jf.t ;  Sussox,  'M  ;  IMiuiiwosorp,  47; 
IVnohsquis.  f>l  ;  .\n:ijr;nioo,  (U) ;  Potitoodiao,  «>() ;  Pollot  Kivor,  71;  Sali.>-hnrv,  7(5; 
Hounditrv  ('n^'k,  70;  Monoton.  S!> ;  Iluniphro.v.  lU  ;  Painsoo  .lunotion,  5»7  (I)oroln'S- 
tor  Ktv»d,  lOU  ;  Sho<liao,  1()(; ;  Point  du  Ch.  tio'  IdS^, ;  Moadow  nro.)k.  101  ;  IMoniram- 
i>ok,  1(>S;  IVm'hostor.  ll<i;  SaokvilU*.  1*27;  Anlao,  liM  ;  Ainhor^t,  IHS  ;  Nappan, 
■/«  ;  M!Uvan,H7:  Athol.  lol  ;  SpriuK  Hill.  ir>r) ;  Salt  Springs,  1»)4  ;  Hivor  Philip, 
v.  ;  Thomiwou.  174  :  (!ns'nvilk>.  ISl  :  Wontworth.  1S7  ;  Kollv  Lako,  ISU  ;  l.ondon- 
•'L-rrv.  V,V.>  :  IVbovt. 'JtM  ;  lshp>nish.  1K\^  ;  Truro,  iiKi :  .lohnson,  *2'i(> ;  ItrookflolJ, 
'2*24  ;■  Pollv  1W.'22J);  Stowiaoko.  ^tv? ;  Shuhonaoa.lio,  liUS;  Miiford,  '242;  KInisdiilp, 
•247;  Knfiold."'24i»:  (Inui.l  l,nko,  '2a4  ;  Wollington,  •2r)(» :  Windsor  .lunotion,  'it54  ; 
Rocky  h>ko,'2(?<>;  IVdford. '2ta> ;  Koin-IMilo  U«uuo. '278  :  llaHiax,  •27t). 

*''«»r*.«  from  St.  John.-  To  Sussox,  1st  olass,  $  l.;{'2,  —  *2d  class, 8Ho.  ;  to  M«)noton, 
1st  ok.xs,  ;?*2.«)7.  — '2d  ohuss,  gi  1 .7X  ;  to  Shodiao,  1st  class,  !if!J,  — 2d  o1h*»h,  f2;  to 
Anihorst.  l^t  class,  « .-^  7S.  —  •2d  class.  S'2.r>2  ;  to  Truro,  1st  olasn,  #  5.02,  —2d  class, 
!?  H  a'i ;  to  Uallt'ix,  1st  cla.-»s.  » t>,      •2d  das-,  *  4. 

Fnrc^  fmm  lliHtU  r.  To  Triiro,  1st  class.  !i«  1  HO,  -  2d  class,  »  1 .24  ;  to  Plotou, 
1st  olass.'ff.-^.lS,  — •^d  class,  S2.12:  to  Amherst.  1st  class,  *8.7S,  — '2d  class,  f  2.52  ; 
t^-i  Sho.liac.  1st  class.  !R4..V>.  —  •2d  class.  ^18.04:  to  Sussex,  1st  class,  $5  31, --2d 
class,  $  8  64  ;  to  St.  .lohn,  1st  class.  $  ti,  — '2d  chuss.  ff  4. 

\Vl^y-pAs^»lMl|^»^s  can  ostlmato  thoir  ox|hmisos  easily  on  t!»o  basis  of  He.  per  ndio  for 
1st  class,  and  '2c.  iM^r  milo  for  *2<1  class  tickets,  which  is  tho  tnrilT  flxod  bv  the 
Canadian  <}overumout  for  all  distances  of  loss  than  100  M.  on  its  national  rail- 
ways. 

On  loavinj:  the  VnUoy  statnni,  in  tho  city  of  St.  .lohn  (soo  pnp;o  19),  tho 
train  parses  out  into  tho  Marsh  Valloy,  which  is  at^oondod  for  several  milea 
(see  pacro  221.  A  short  distance  beyi^id  Moosepath  Park  tho  lino  crosses 
Lnirlor'g  Lake  on  an  enibankiuont  which  cost  heavily,  on  account  of  the 
great  depth  to  which  the  ballastino:  sunk.  Tho  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  soon 
seen,  on  the  1.,  and  is  skirted  for  5  M.,  passing  the  villas  of  Rothesay  (see 
page  22),  and  giving  pleasant  views  over  the  broad  waters.     Quispara- 


StrMHKX    VAr.K. 


rinnlr  fC. 


1 


bI»  Btatiotj  Ih  J)  M.  S  ((f  (loriilolfi.  jViiiit,  wli«uic<i  ti  irrry  rr'tfinm  tlio  Ki-n- 
Ii(«l»(M'MBiH  to  tlin  pn'tly  liiiiiilrt  ai'  Cliflnu.  'Iln'  niirn/wifijr  vnlh-y  •"  "ow 
fullnwnil  to  tlm  N.  I'!.,  with  (»c('Msioiifil  ^Iim|H("<  nf  flu;  rivnr  <»n  Mm  I. 
/Itniififon  (two  hoti'h)  in  tlii'  Hliin'-fnw n  oC  Kiii;^-i  ('oiiiity,  wIioum  tww  piilt- 
lic,  Itiiihliii^fM  iii'o  Mt'ori  tn  the  r.  nl'  tlit<  inu-k.  It  Ih  ii  thriving  vill-ijrn  of  ro- 
ei'iit  orlfTjii,  iitid  i"*  vhitrd  in  Hiiinmcr  l>y  tlm  |>«Mipln  ol  St.  .I(»lii^  on  iiciMinnt 
of  tlu^  liill  HccMHTv  ill  tin-  vicinity. 

St.  Mirlln'M,  or  ^jiiitro,  Ih  iilutut  UU  M.  H  K  ,  (in  Mm'  lliiv  «>r  Fnri'lv,  nnrl  \n  now 
(MirnM'i  t<<ii    wU.li   lliiiii|iton   liy  riillwuy.     (It,   in   iiIho  vi-<il«'i|    liy  iliilly   pIiix« 

finm  St.  .Inlni  in  '>\2  IM,,  fiirn  #  I  50  ;  ii  riiu«<M|  rdii'l  )  'l'lii-»  U  oim-  of  tin-  (  ii«-f  Hlii))- 
iiuil'litiK  townn  in  Mi<>  |iroviiir(>,  imhI  Iiiin  nvcr  I  ,(IIKl  inliiiliitMiil-,  with  Hi'vcrnl  clinrclir^ 
iinil  otlit<r  piiltlir  ImiliJinK^.  |t,  wih  oriifliiiiily  m'ttlcil  liy  t.lii<  Kin^'x  OnMij^tt  ItHi^'TM, 
!)iii(  liiiH  n'crntly  Imtomm-  ii  luvorilo  |ioinl  for  HiiiMitii'r  )'X('nrxiriiH  from  .Kt.lolMi. 
Tlio  liotol  iKM'onniio'iMlion  Ih  iiilcrior.  S  of  t|ii>  villnt;*'  Im  flic  tiill  lij^titlumwf  (in 
liiiiico  Held,  KiiHdiiniiiK  II  I'l'Voivinn  wliiti-  li;^lit  Tin'  iiiiiiw  ((iiniit  i^  m ciiitrMrtion 
of  llu>  IlKiiiii  \vnii|n  (iiihi-nhu'iliK"'  1  iii"''iniiii.c  "  Mi''  Momi"  of  tin-  Mimi  cow." 

Tlio  hIioi'ch  iilioiit.  (^iiiico  lire  hold  and  pictnr<<-<i|iic,  fronting  the  H'ly  wIMi  lofty 
iron-lioiiiid  cIKIh,  iiii'on;?  wliicli  iirc  miiall  HtripH  of  Htoiiy  hciichcM.  'I'lic  Ktnita  aro 
liiirhly  iiirlliicd  iind  in  hoiiic  cum-h  nrc  Hfrimtcclv  contorted,  while  their  HhelvcH  ami 
CM  viiM'H  lire  iidoriied  willi  |)ine-lreeM.  (^mnn  llmd  i-t  2  M.  from  Ht.  MiirMii'?,  atid 
Ih  .%()  ft.  hiKli,  Hiirroinidcd  hy  clitlH  of  red  HiiiidHtone  'lUh  ft.  in  liei;;ht..  Tliin  tiold 
|ii'iHiionfory  rincM  directly  from  the  hcii,  mid  Im  crowned  hy  forcHtn.  Ttie  liiirtior  of 
i^iiiicii  iH  riitlior  pretty,  whem-e  it,  Iiiih  lieeii  likened  to  the  Itiiy  of  Niipie-i  Trnn/\i 
Liikr  Ih  (ilioiit.  r»  .M.  from  (^niico,  on  tlie  Loch  fiOiiionil  rofid,  and  I-*  noted  for  an 
iiliunilance  of  trout.  |(»- 12  IM  N.  of  the  villiiire  i^  the  Moii:.»,  Tlieohala  hako,  a 
Hiiiall  ronnd  foreHt-pool  in  wlilclt  tront  are  found  In  K>'(!>it  nuniherH. 

Hnuijiton  Htntioii  i^  I  M.  from  Mm  villfit;;*!  of  Ilntnfiton  K<!rrv,  iin<l  Imyond 
Illooinlield  till'  train  ronches  NovUm.  whciii-o  a  railwuy  riifiH  to  (iraml  Lnk«. 
Apohnqui  (Apolwupti  Hotel)  Ih  h  viila^'e  of  .')()()  InlnihitatitH,  on  the  up{>er 
K"itMel»('<'n"is,  nnd  i\t  tlu'  jnoiith  of  tin;  Mill  Htroain  Vallc}'. 

Tlio  train  now  rciicln's  Sussex  {JnU'.rcoliinlnl  llutci),  a  pleu»ant  villuj^t 

of  400   inlm!)itaiit,'<,  wliciico  the  faiuouH   farm-hiiidH  of   tin;  Hunntx    Vale 

Btrotch  oil'  to  tin;  S.  K.  Jiloiif^  tin;  (mmji'bo  of  Tront  llrook.     'I'hero  tiro  rcv- 

ornl  hmidots  (with  inns)  uniid  tlu^  ploiisjirit  rnnd  HcciKiry  of  thn  V'nlo,  and 

piod  trout-flsliinj.^  is  found  on  thi;  Htnnllor  fitrnnrn^.     8  M.  uf)  is  tho  pros- 

jioronn  .sottlciun^nt  of  S(;(;l(;y's  MilJH,  with  050  inhiihitniitH 

The  HuHHi'X  Vale  wan  nettled  by  the  military  rorpH  of  tlio  N«w  Jersoy  Loyall«ts 
(inoNt  of  whom  were  (lerniaiiH),  Hoon  iiftor  the  Kevolnt.ionary  War.  and  it,  i.-*  no.^r 
occupied,  for  tho  n»Ht  part,  by  their  deHcendant.H.  "  (l(jod  roadu,  w(!ll-<!Xocut<'<l 
bridi^cH,  cleared  land,  excellent  crojm,  coiiifortihlu  houses,  higii-bred  rattio  and 
lior.ieN,  i^ood  eon''ey»nceH  public  and  jtrlvMte,  coiiininiloiiH  chiirche.^,  well-tani^ht 
Hcliool.><,  well  provided  inns,  and  an  IntvllitjiMit,  iridnstriouH  (leople,  all  in  tho  inidHt 
of  Hcenery  lofty,  noft,  rounded,  be.iutifnlly  varied  with  hill  and  valley,  mount. la 
and  inciidow,  forest  and  tlood,  have  taken  the  pl.'wo  of  the  pathleHS  wilderneHH,  the 
L'ndk'ss  trees,  the  untaught  Indian,  and  the  wivage  ujooho."'    (Prop.  Johnhton.) 

Uoyond  I'hunwcsc'op  oocasioiiul  glirnpsos  of  vSo  long  low  ridj^o  of  Picca- 
iliily  Mt.  aro  ohtainiMl  on  Mie  r.,  and  Mt.  IMsj^ah  is  just  N.  of  PenofMfpiig 
station  (small  inn),  which  is  the  scat  of  the  Now  Brunswick  Paper  Manu- 
i'u'turinf?  Co.  tind  of  sovoral  salt-works.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  henco  32 
M.  S.  K.  to  the  maritime  viliaire  of  Altna,  on  the  fiay  of  Fundy,  5  M- 
N.  W.  of  tho  shipping-port  ,f  roint  rF.'(/*  (Stevens's  Hotel). 


<•  -f 


72       Rmite  IG, 


MONCTON. 


Petitoodiao  {Mnnmrd  House;  Central  Hotel)  is  15  M.  beyond  Penob- 
squis,  and  is  a  busy  village  of  400  inlialiitants,  niiiny  of  whom  ore  con- 
nected with  the  liiinl)0'*-tnide.  6  M.  S.  K.  is  the  Pollett  Hivcr  vilhigo,  near 
which  there  is  pood  trouting.  In  this  vicinity  are  tlie  P>lleit  Falk,  where 
the  river,  after  Howing  through  a  narrow  de'ile  between  lofty  and  rugged 
hdls,  falls  over  a  line  of  sandstone  ledges,  and  then  whirls  away  down  a 
dark  gorge  below.  The  caverns,  crags,  and  eroded  fronts  of  the  suud- 
stone  clitls  form  picturesque  bits  of  scenery. 

16-18  M.  N.  of  I'etitcodiac  are  the  famous  fishing-grounds  of  the 
Canaan  River.  The  railway  now  descends  the  VHlley  of  the  Petitcodiac 
River,  which  was  settled  after  the  Kevolutionarv  War  bv  (jerniaiis  from 
Pennsylvania  who  remained  loyal  to  Great  liritain.  Salisbunj  (two  inns) 
is  a  pleasant  village  of  800  itdiabitants. 

Leaving  Salisbury,  th«'  Alb«'rt  Kail  way  runs  45  M  S.  E.  through  the  vil- 
lages of  llillsboro,  Albert  Mines,  niul  liiversidc.  to  Albert,  the  tcriniiius  of  tiio 
line.  UiUshoro,  a  luisy  village  of  TOO  iuhabitimts,  l»iis  2  iiotels,  and  is  a  port  froui 
whicli  sclioouers  and  sinps  transport,  the  plaster  iiiaiiura<tiired  liere  in  large  quan- 
tities. Albert  Mows,  oiuo  the  most  valuable  coal-mines  known,  liave  lately  closed, 
the  supply  being  exhausted.  The  village  of  llirvi  aUlc.  may  be  .said  to  be  a  part  of 
the  village  of  Albert,  the  latter  being  the  larger.  Albert  is  the  l)usiest  and  most 
picturesque  part  of  the  county.  It  has  3  hotels,  a  weekly  paper  {The  Maple  Li'nf), 
16  general  stores,  carriage  and  furniture  uianulactories,  etc  At  this  point  all  the 
principal  highways  centre,  and  it  receives  the  greater  part  of  the  county's  trade. 
From  the  Albert  terminus,  a  nilway  runs  S.  3-4  M  to  ILtrreij  (  oriiir  and  Hdr- 
vey  Hank,  where  shipbuilding  is  extensively  carried  on  HocIut  and  Ca)  e  l<]nrag^ 
lie  to  the  S.  W.,  on  tlie  sliore  of  the  Kay  of  Fun<ly.  The  Cape  is  suppliel  with  a 
fixed  light  and  steam  fog-whistle.  Continuing  on  E.  from  Harvey  Bank  30U  come 
to  Mary's  I'oint,  the  famous  freestone  qu.-irries  of  the  Provinces  and  ii  beautiful 
summer  resort.  Another  railway  runs  IH  M.  S.  W  from llarvev to  Alma,  a  beau- 
tiful villajire  on ''le  bay  shore  Between  Albert  and  llillsboro  is  a  villnne  of  some 
Importance,  Hopewell  Cape,  where  are  pitnnted  the  court-house,  jail,  and  regi.s- 
try  offices.  Shciunhi  Mountain  \Hi\\v\\\)i.\wi-t\\\  the  county  (1.050  ft. ).  and  gives 
a  magnificent  view  of  .\lbert  and  U'estnioreland  Counties.  The  wliole  region  is 
rich  iu  mines  and  quarries,  -nd  supplies  the  tourist  with  very  good  scenery,  tisuing, 
and  game.     Branch  railways  run  from  Petitcodiac  to  i!:i^iu  uud  ii.ivelock. 

Bevond  Salisbnrv  the  Halifax  train  runs  13  M.  N  E.  to  Moncton  (Hotel 
Brunswick),  the  headquarters  of  the  Intercolonial  Hallway  and  the  site 
of  its  extensive  machine-shops.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  has  10  churches, 
2 daily  papers,  and  large  manufacturing  works.  Its  situation  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  tlie  Petitcodiac  gives  certain  commercial  advantages,  and 
affords  opportunity  for  the  visitor  to  see  tlie  great  '*  Pore,"  or  tide-wave, 
of  the  Bav  of  Fundy.  At  the  beginning  of  the  flood-tide  a  wall  of  water 
4-0  ft.  high,  sweeps  up  tin;  river,  and  within  0  hours  the  stream  rises  70  ft 

The  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  N.  from  Moncton,  and  is  comi)leted  to  meet  the 
Canadian  Railway  system  at  Riviere  du  Loup.  It  jKis.ses  throngli  o"  near  the  chief 
towns  of  the  North  JShore,  and  follows  the  Bay  of  (]haliMir  for  many  miles.  See 
page  59  a.    A  railroad  runs  from  Moncton  to  Buctouche,  32  M. 

.Moncton  hns  7.00()  inliabifant^i.  a  snsrar  refinery,  cotton,  \arn,  shoe.  lo<-k,  anj 
knitting  fictctries,  el'ctric  lights,  water  works,  an  '  j>era  hotise,  He 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  to  the  N.  E.  from  Moncton,  and  after  passing 
Fuinsec  Junction  (see  page  59}  deflects  to  the  S  E.  into  the  Memramcook 


SACKVILLE. 


JRoute  16.       73 


*enob- 
B  con- 
',  near 
where 

•u<rge'l 

lown  a 

sund- 


nf  the 
codinc 
IS  from 
o  inns) 


the  vil- 
<  of  the 
)rt  from 
0  quau- 
y  clost'J, 

part  of 
111  most 
e  //('"/), 
.  all  the 
s  trade, 
id  Httr- 
!  Kiirag«5 
I  with  a 
ou  come 
{leiiutiful 

i\  l)eau- 
of  som« 
nd  repis- 
nd  frivc8 
•onion    is 

tisuiug, 

{I fate  I 
the  site 
lurches, 
he  head 
[res,  and 
IG-Avave, 
)f  water 
[cs  70  ft 

Imeet  the 
Ithe  chinf 
lies.    See 

[)(k,  iiiij 


imcook 


Valley  It  soon  reaches  the  connected  villages  of  Afemramcook  and  St. 
Joseph  (three  inns),  occupying  the  centre  of  a  pro-;p(M'ons  farming  district 
which  is  inhabited  by  over  1,000  Acadian?*, — a  jiimis  and  sinijjlo-liearted 
Catholic  peasantry,  — a  la.^'C  portion  of  whom  belong  to  the  prolific  fami- 
lies of  Leblanc,  Cormier,  Gaudet,  and  Rouciue.  On  tlio  opposite  sliorc  is 
the  College  of  St.  Joseph  de  Memramcook,  where  about  100  students 
(mostly  from  Canada  and  the  United  States)  are  conducted  through  a 
Iiigh-school  curriculum  bv  12  friars  and  ecclesiastics.  Xoar  the  college 
is  the  handsome  stone  Church  of  St.  Joseph  de  Momramcook. 

The  Valley  of  the  Memramcook,  down  which  tlie  train  descends  to  Dor- 
chester, possesses  one  of  the  most  charming  landscapes  in  the  country. 
Two  high  parallel  ridges,  wooded  and  well  settled,  are  seen  on  either 
hand,  while  the  valley  itself,  like  the  Tantraniar  Marshes,  is  a  dead  level, 
miles  in  length,  being  made  up  from  the  sea  by  tidal  deposits,  and  in  June 
it  is  an  ocean  of  bright  green.  Dorchester  [Dorchester  Hotel)  is  a  pros- 
perous village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
and  among  the  finest  wheat-lands  in  New  Brunswick.  Dorchester  has  4 
churches,  the  public  buildings  of  Westmoreland  County,  and  numerous 
pleasant  residences.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Memramcook,  at  Rock- 
land, are  quarries  of  freestone,  several  thousand  tons  of  which  are  shipped 
annually  to  Boston  and  New  York.  Shi; '^uilding  and  shipowning  is  the 
leading  business.  The  traveller  by  train  is  surprised  to  ?ee  vessels  of 
1,000  tons,  being  built  in  the  woods,  two  miles  from  apparent  water. 
They  are  launched  at  high-tides  into  a  creek  at  hand.  A  large  and  im- 
posing freestone  building  on  the  heights  above  the  town  is  the  Dominion 
Penitentiary  for  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

A  ferry  crosses  Shepody  Bay  to  Hopewell  Cape  (see  page  72);  and  0-R  M.  W.  of 
Dorchester  is  Belliveau  village,  nine  tenths  of  whose  inhabitants  belong  to  the  fami- 
lies of  Belliveau,  Oautreault,  and  Melan^on.  This  settlement  was  nan'.cd  in  honor 
of  the  venerable  M.  Hellivcau,  whose  long  life  extended  from  1730  to  1840.  In  1776 
many  of  the  Acadians  of  this  vicinity  joined  the  New  England  forces  under  Col. 
Eddy,  who  occupied  Sackville  and  attacked  Fort  Cumberland  (see  page  78). 

The  train  now  runs  E.  12  M.  from  Dorchester  to  Sackville  {Brunswick 
House)^  a  rising  and  prosperous  village  of  about  1,500  inhabitants,  situated 
on  a  red  sandstone  slope  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tantramar  l  River,  near  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It  has  ship-yards,  a  stove  foundry,  a  news- 
paper, and  8  churches.  Sackville  is  the  seat  of  the  Mount  Allison  Wes- 
leyan  College,  an  institution  which  was  founded  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Allison,  and 
is  conducted  by  the  Wesleyan  Conference  of  Kastern  British  America.  It 
includes  a  small  college,  a  theological  hall,  and  academies  for  boys  and 
girls.  A  road  leads  from  Sackville  S.  E.  down  the  rugged  headland  be- 
tween Cumberland  Basin  and  Shepody  Bay,  passing  the  marine  hamlets 
of  Woodpoint  (6  M.),  Rockport  (12  M.),  and  N.  Joggins,  14  M.  from  Sack- 
ville, and  near  the  highlanis  of  Cape  Marangouin. 

1  Tantramar,  from  the  French  word  Tintamnrre,  meaning  *'  a  thundering  noiae." 


74       Route  W. 


TANTRAMAR   M/VRSH. 


aarkTllIo  \n  tlio  pnltit  cufnMUhtMl  for  the  nntlrf.  of  »li(<  |»ri>jrrtc-I  Hi|o  Vi^rtfl 
Cntiitl,  a  iif<tf*il  work  |M  !M.  loiin:,  wliicli  wmilil  nilow  v<whc1m  (h  |n«iM  f, mu  tln'  Hay 
of  FuikIv  to  Mu'  Hull"  of  S(.  liawniM't'  wlf limit  luivliijf  to  iuiiimI  tlic  lrnii-l>oiiiit|  |m"«. 
ntiiMulii  of  Novji  Srotlii.  T!iN  rtniMl  Ins  liccii  pliniiit'd  iiml  drslrtMl  tor  over  n  «mmi- 
tnrv,l>iit  noMiiiiK  !>»'*  vot  licoii  ilonc,  rxcrpt  tlii>  siirvcviii^r  of  Mic  istlmms.  'I'll- 
wookly  Mtii|jr(>N  run  N.  K.  nlonvr  tlio  tcloirnipli-roiul  tVnm  Sh«  kvi!l«'  to  .lolico'iir  (|(>  M  ), 
Hiii«'  Vortc  lloa.l  (14  M  ).  I':ii<«  Vorlf  (1^  ^..^-innll  inn).  i\\u\  I'ort  KIkIm  (L»(I  "M  ;  inn). 
Alunit  It)  >I.  N.  K  of  Port  K,i«iii  Is  Tapw  I  oriii«>nliiH>,  "  tin-  j^n-jit  lii>ti<lliinil 
whicli  forms  the  K.  I'xtii'initv  of  New  nniiiswicU  witiiin  the  (inlf  Imlian  Point, 
niny  hv  said  to  form  the  sontliiTn,  ami  ('a|M>  .loiiriiiiain  tin'  iiortlicrn  poinfH  of  this 
hoailland,  wliirh  is  a  plaoo  of  iinportanro  In  a  nantirai  point  of  view,  ntit  only  from 
lt.M  position,  but  from  U^  «langtTons  and  oxfonslvo  shoals."  Tln>  snltmarlno  trlo- 
Kraph  to  IMintc  Kdward  Island  cro^.'-cs  from  ('.m|h' JoiiriiUMin  ;  .ind  it  is  from  tlii' 
point  Mint  tlu>  \viiit«'r  mail-.M'rvico  Is  condncti'd,  when  tlu«  mailH,  pMsi-i>nm>rs,  ntnl 
l)afi;g!in:«>  nil*  .^nlijortrd  tonii  o.\«ilin>;  anti  pcriliHis  traiL^it  in  ii  I'-lioals  to  Capo  Tniv- 
rrfP.  Halo  Vcrlr  is  S)  !\I.  \Nido  and  H  M.  drrp,  Imt  alVor  Is  no  ptod  shrKcr.  It  rc- 
rolvos  the  'I'iniiish  and  (ias|M>ri<an  Kivcrs,  and  at  the  moiilli  of  (ho  lattor  aro  tho 
Hiick'nt   ruins  of  Fort  MomMou. 

About  200  studi'iil.s  altcnd  the  Mount- Allison  iMiiicjitional  Institution. 
Saokvillf  |)os.s^'^^se8  40  MjUiirc  miles  of  nuirsli  lands,  that  products  enormous 
crops  of  j^jrassos.  I.ar^e  siiipnicnts  o(  hay  nnd  cattli'  arc  tnadti  from  here; 
tho  latter  to  the  English  markets.  Tho  hoi^s  ami  lakes , it  the  head  of  the 
nnu'shes  are  haunts  of  sni|>e  antl  duck,  atid  are  a  favorite  resort  of  sp<(rts- 
men.  Saekville  has  a  Music  Hall.  The  New-Brunswiok  &  Prinoo- 
Edward-Island  Railway  runs  from  Saekville  to  Cape  'rormontine,  slop- 
ping; at  intermediate  points  (see  nhove).  This  is  the  winter  nmil-route  to 
P.  K.  rslaiul. 

At  Saekville  tlie  Halifax  train  crosses  the  Tantramar  River,  nnd  runs 
out  over  the  wide  Tantramar  Marsh  to  Aulac,  or  Cole's  I.slaiul  (stage  to 
Cape  Torniontlne),  near  wiiich  it  crosses  the  Aniac  River.  Trains  ar(3 
sometimes  blocked  in  on  tiiese  plains  during  the  snow-storms  of  winter, 
and  the  passengers  are  subjected  to  groat  hardships.  The  Missiguiish 
River  is  next  crossed,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Boausojonr  (Cumberland)  on 
the  N.,  and  of  Fort  Beaubassin  (Lawrence)  on  the  S.  These  forts  are  best 
visited  from  Amherst,  which  is  4-5  M.  distant,  and  is  reached  after  trav- 
ersing the  .}fim(pinsh  Marsh.  The  Missignash  River  is  the  boundary 
between  New  Bnniswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  Amherst  is  tho  first  town 
reached  in  the  latter  Province. 

Fort  Lawrence  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  proposed  Chignecto  Marine 
Railway,  whereby  it  is  intended  to  carry  ships  of  1,000  tons  with  their 
cargoes  between  the  Straits  of  Northumberland  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
a  distance  of  17  M.  The  Canadian  Government  has  subsidized  the  pro- 
ject with  S  150,000  per  annum  for  25  years,  and  an  English  Company 
began  work  in  1883.  This  .cheme  is  a  substitute  for  the  Bale  Verte 
Canal,  which  was  abandoned  in  1875. 

Amherst  to  Halifax,  see  Route  17. 


NOVA    SCOTIA. 


The  Province  of  Nova  Scofiii  is  pcniiisijlur  in  locution,  nnd  ia  connected 
with  the  tniiinhmd  hy  an  istlnnus  H  M.  wido  It  in  l)otuj(l»!(|  on  tlio  N.  hy 
thn  Bay  of  Fumly,  the  Strnit  of  NortliunilK-rlMnd,  and  th(!(tulf  of  St.  I^aw- 
rcncn;  on  the  K.  juul  S.  I»y  the  Atlantic  Ocean;  and  on  the  W.  by  the 
ocean,  th«<  Hay  of  I'nndy,  and  the  I'lovincc^of  New  HrntiHwick.  ItH  length, 
from  Capo  Causo  to  ('ai)e  St.  Mary,  is  <'JHIi  M.,  and  its  breadth  varies  from 
50  RI,  to  101  M.  Tlie  area  of  the  penitisula  is  lO.OOO  M(piarp  niilcH.  The 
population  iH4r)(),.V2;},  «.f  whoni  117,  IH7  are  [{omaii  Catholics,  112,000  I 're.s- 
byti'rians,  8:1,500  IJaptists,  (10,255  Cluirch  «.f  Kn^'larid  people,  51,000  Metho- 
distH,  and  OH  Tnitarians.  405,000  arc  nutiveH  of  Novu  Scotiu,  and  21,000 
from  the  Hritish  Islands. 

"  Acadio  is  nnieh  wanner  in  summer  and  nnich  colder  in  winter  than 
the  countries  in  Kurf)pe  lyinp^  under  the  same  [tarallcls  of  latitude" 
(Sotithern  France,  Sardiid.i,  L(tml)ardy,  Genoa,  Venice,  Northern  Tur- 
key, the  (Crimea,  and  Cin-assia).  "Tin!  sprint^  stason  is  colder  and  the 
autumn  more  a^^recable  than  those  on  the  o|)posite  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
Its  climate  is  lav(»rai)l(!  to  :igricidtnre,  its  soil  freiuirally  fertile.  Tho  land 
ia  well  wat(M'ed  by  rivers,  brooks,  and  lake's.  The  su[)ply  of  timljer  for 
use  and  for  exportation  may  bo  considcM-ed  as  inexhaustible.  The  fish- 
pjL"^  on  the  coasts  are  abundant.  Tie  harbors  are  numerous  and  excel- 
lent. Wild  animals  are  al^undant,  among  which  are  remarkable  the  mcx^se, 
caribou,  and  red  deer.  Wild  fowl  also  are  plenty.  Kxtensive  tracts  of 
alluvial  land  of  great  value  are  found  on  the  liay  of  Furwly.  These  lands 
have  a  natural  richness  that  dispenses  with  all  manuring;  all  that  is 
wanted  to  keep  them  in  order  is  spade-work.  As  to  cereals,  —  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize,  all  prosp(;r.  The  potato,  the  hf»p,  flax,  and 
hemp  are  everywhere  prolific.  The  vegetables  of  the  kitchen  garden  are 
successfully  raised.  Of  fruit  there  are  many  wild  kinds,  and  the  apple, 
pear,  plum,  and  cherry  seem  almost  indigenous.  The  vine  thrives;  good 
grapes  are  often  raised  in  the  open  air.  it  was  said  by  a  French  writer 
that  Acadie  produced  readily  everything  that  grew  in  Old  France,  except 
the  olive. 

"  In  the  peninsula,  or  Acadie  proper,  there  is  an  abundance  of  mineml 
wealth.  Coal  is  found  in  Cumberland  and  I'ictou;  iron  ore,  in  Colchester 
and  Annapolis  Counties;  gypsum,  in  Hants;  marble  and  limestone,  in  dif- 
ferent, localities ;  freestone,  for  building,  at  Remsheg  (Port  Wallace)  and 


t/v  ? 


Tf 


76 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


PIctou;  granite,  iiear  Halifax,  Shelburne,  etc.;  brick  clay,  in  the  counties 
of  Halifax  and  Annapolis.  The  amethysts  of  Parrsborough  and  its  vicin- 
ity have  been  long  celebrated,  and  pearls  have  been  found  lately  in  the 
Annapolis  River.  The  discovery  of  gold  along  the  whole  Atlantic  shore  of 
the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  has  taken  place  since  1860,  and  it  now  gives 
steady  remunerative  employment  to  about  800  or  1,000  laborers,  with 
every  expectation  of  its  expansion."  (Beamish  Murdoch.)  The  pro- 
duction of  gold  from  t      Nova-Scotia  mines  amounts  to  $;  400,000  a  year. 

In  1881,  Nova  Sc  "•'  ha.'  440,572  inhabitants,  of  whom  146,027  are  of 
Scotch  origin,  126,  iG  Ivu-ish,  60,007  Irihh,  41,210  French.  Of  these, 
117,487  are  Roman  atltolics,  112,488  rresbyterians,  83,761  IJaptistS; 
60,255  of  the  Churcl         ',.iglaud,  and  50  81 1  Mothodists. 

The  territory  now  „.  mpied  by  the  Maritime  Provinces  was  known  for 
nearlv  two  centuries  bv  the  name  of  Acadie,^  and  was  the  scene  of  fre- 
quent  wars  between  Britain  and  France.  Its  first  discoverers  were  the 
Northmen,  about  the  year  1000  a.  d.,  and  Sebastian  Cabot  rediscovered 
it  in  1498.  In  1518  and  1598  futile  attempts  were  made  by  French  nobles 
to  found  colonies  here,  and  French  fishermen,  fur-traders,  and  explorers 
frequented  these  shores  for  over  a  century.  In  1605  a  settlement  was 
founded  at  Port  Royal,  after  the  discoveries  of  De  Monts  and  Champlain, 
but  it  was  broken  up  in  1618  by  the  Virginians,  who  claimed  that  Acadie 
belonged  to  Britain  by  virtue  of  Cabot's  discovery.  In  1621  James  I. 
of  England  granted  to  Sir  William  Alexander  the  domain  called  Nova 
Scotia,  including  all  the  lands  K.  of  a  line  drawn  from  Passamoquoddy 
Bay  N.  to  the  St.  Lawrence;  but  this  claim  was  renounced  in  1632,  and 
the  rival  F'rench  nobles,  La  Tour  and  I)'  Aulnay,  commenced  their  fratri- 
cidal wars,  each  striving  to  be  sole  lord  of  Acadie.  In  1654  the  Province 
was  captured  by  a  force  sent  out  by  Cromwell,  but  the  French  interest 
soon  regained  its  former  position. 

The  order  of  the  Baronets  of  Nova  Scotia  was  founded  by  King  Charles 
I.,  in  1625,  and  consisted  of  150  well-born  gentlemen  of  Scotland,  who  re- 
ceived, with  their  titles  and  insignia,  grants  of  18  square  miles  each,  in  the 
wide  domains  of  Acadia.  These  manors  were  to  bo  settled  by  the  baronets 
at  their  own  exi)ense,  and  were  expected  in  time  to  yield  handsome 
revenues.  But  little  was  ever  accomplished  by  this  order.  Meanthne 
Cardinal  Richelieu  founded  and  became  grand  master  of  a  more  powerful 
F'rench  association  called  the  Company  of  Now  France  (1027).     It  coii- 

1  Acadia  Is  the  Anglicized  (or  Ijiitliilzedl  f«»rm  of  Arndie,  Hti  Indian  word  Blffnifying 
•*  tlie  pluco,"  or  "  the  refiion. '  It  is  ii  part  of  the  ('(unpDiiiKt  wordH  Segfiel)en-uc(iaiv  tSUu- 
bcnncudic',  nicnniiiK  "  plaee  of  wild  potatoes  ";  TiiUjik-rndic  (Traeudic  ,  meaninf?  '*  dwellinp- 
placc '  ;  lSun-(Wa(lii:,OT  "  pliue  of  ertuil)errie8 '  ;  Kitiioo-ticadu ,  or  "place  of  englcn,'  und 
otliers  of  similar  form.  The  .Milkctc  trihes  pronouticed  this  word  "  Qtioddy,  whence 
I'tstuiuoo-qvodihj  (Passuinoquodd^',  meaning  "place  of  pollocks';  A'oodi-quoddi/,  or 
"place  of  seals,  etc.  When  u  Hritish  officer  was  descrndinia;  the  Shuhenacodic  with  u  Mic- 
mac  guide,  he  inquired  how  the  name  originated  :  the  Indian  answered.  "  Because  plenty 
wild  potatoes  —  '<  (tdtbi'ii  —  once  jjrcw  here.'  "  Well,  '  acadie,'  Paul,  what  does  that  luean  ? 
**  Means  —  where  you  find  em,    rtgoined  the  Micmac. 


sisted  C 

foundlf 

ates,  ai 

Catholi 

frigates 

found  in 

In  16 

tresses, 

cessful 

stronghc 

Scotia  V 

ihce  wa.' 

affectior 

the  Briti 

tion  of  h 

the  gove 

ber)  wer 

nies,  and 

In  175 

French  j 

of  the  R 

and  in  i; 

into  sepa: 

During  tl 

of  the  B 

harassed 

In  1864 

measures 

the  sessic 

Lawrence 

held  at  Qi 

rated.     It 

all  the  ori« 

unite  (or 

called  Ac.^ 

nets  could 

favored  by 

bee  and  Oi 

"There 
orfurnishir 
is  quite  mil 
of  surpassii 
more  beaut 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


77 


ountles 
8  vicin- 
!  in  the 
^linre  of 
w  gives 
•s,  with 
he  pro- 
[i  year. 
!7  are  of 
f  these, 
UaptistSj 

nown  for 
le  of  fve- 
were  the 
iscovered 
;h  nobles 
explorers 
nent  was 
liiniplain, 
nt  Acadie 
James  I. 
led  Nova 
noquoddy 
1C32,  and 
leir  fratri- 
Provincc 
h  interest 

g  Charles 

h,  who  re- 

jeh,  in  the 

baronets 

handsome 

iMenntimc 

pdwoii'iil 

It  con- 


ll  sifirnifving 

"  dwellinp- 
I'nglcN,'    uiul 

|y,  wlu'Mce 
-Quoddii,  or 
with  u  Mic- 

kuBi',  plenty^ 
'lat  luean  ? 


sisted  of  100  members,  who  received  Acadia,  Quebec,  Florida,  and  New- 
foundland "  in  simple  homage,"  and  had  power  to  erect  duchies,  marquis- 
ates,  and  seigniories,  subject  to  the  royal  approval.  They  allowed  French 
Catholics  only  to  settle  on  these  lands,  and  were  protected  by  national 
frigates.  This  order  continued  for  40  years,  and  was  instrumental  in 
founding  numerous  villages  along  the  Nova-Scotian  coast. 

In  1690  the  New-Englanders  overran  the  Province  and  seized  the  for- 
tresses, but  it  was  restored  to  France  in  1697.  In  1703  and  1707  unsuc- 
cessful expeditions  were  sent  from  Massachusetts  against  the  Acadian 
strongholds,  but  they  were  finally  captured  in  1710;  and  in  1713  Nova 
Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Hri[ain  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  The  Prov- 
ince was  kept  in  a  condition  of  disorder  for  the  next  40  years,  by  the  dis- 
affection of  its  French  pf)pulation  and  the  lawlessness  of  the  Indians,  and 
the  British  fortresses  were  often  menaced  and  attacked.  After  the  founda- 
tion of  Halifax,  in  1749,  a  slow  tide  of  immigration  set  in  and  strengthened 
the  government.  In  1755  the  French  people  in  the  Province  (7,000  in  num- 
ber) were  suddenly  seized  and  transf)orted  to  the  remote  American  colo- 
nies, and  the  French  forts  on  the  Baic-Vcrte  frontier  were  captured. 

In  1758  the  first  House  of  Assembly  mot  at  Halifax,  and  in  1763  the 
French  power  in  America  was  finally  and  totally  crushed.  At  the  close 
of  the  Revolution,  20,000  self-exiled  Americans  settled  in  Nova  Scotia; 
and  in  1784  New  Brunswick  and  Cape  Breton  were  withdrawn  and  made 
into  separate  provinces  (Cape  Breton  was  reunited  to  Nova  Scotia  in  1820). 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812  Halifax  was  the  chief  station 
of  the  British  navy,  and  the  shores  of  the  Province  were  continually 
harassed  by  American  privateers. 

In  1864  a  convention  was  held  at  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  to  consider 
measures  for  forming  a  federal  union  of  the  Maritime  Provinces.  During 
the  session  Canadian  delegates  were  admitted,  on  the  request  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Provinces ;  and  a  subsequent  congress  of  all  the  Provinces  was 
held  at  Quebec,  at  which  the  plan  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  was  elabo- 
rated. It  is  now  thought  that  this  quasi-national  goveniment  does  not  fulfil 
all  the  original  wishes  of  the  seaboard  regions,  and  that  it  may  be  well  to 
unite  (or  reunite)  the  Maritime  Provinces  into  one  powerful  province 
culled  Acadia,  by  which  the  expense  of  three  local  legislatures  and  cabi- 
nets could  be  saved,  their  homogeneous  commercial  interests  could  be 
favored  by  uniform  laws,  and  the  populous  and  wealthy  Provinces  of  Que- 
bec and  Ontario  could  be  balanced  in  the  Dominion  Parliament. 


"  There  are  perhaps  no  Provinces  in  the  world  possessing  finer  harbors, 
or  furnishing  in  greater  abundaj)oe  all  the  conveniences  of  life.  The  climate 
is  quite  mild  and  very  healthy,  and  no  lands  have  been  found  that  are  not 

of  surpassing  fertility Finally,  nowhere  are  there  to  be  seen  forests 

more  beautiful  or  with  wood  better  fitted  for  buildings  and  masts.    There 


! 


ii 


T8      RotUe  IK 


AMHERST. 


li 


m 


Arc  in  ^ome  plnoes  copper  mtnos,  Riid  \\\  oHiors  of  coal The  flsli  most 

commonly  caught  on  the  const  arc  the  cod,  sMhnotJ,  mnckorol,  liorring, 
sardine,  shnd,  trout,  pottc,  jj^pai-ot,  binhcl,  stur>:coti,  p)borge, — nil  fish 
that  can  be  salted  and  exported.     Seals,  walruses,  niid  whales  are  found 

In  great  muubers The  rivers,  too,  are  full  of  frcsh-wnter  llsh,  and  tho 

banks  teem  with  cotmtless  gnuu\"     (Katiiku  CnAui.KVotx,  1705.) 

•'  Hei'ewith  1  enter  the  lists  as  the  chamj)ion  of  Nova  Scotia Wero 

I  to  give  a  first-class  certificate  of  its  general  chnrncter,  I  would  nfilrm  that 
it  yields  a  greater  variety  of  prodiuHs  for  export  thnn  nny  territory  on  tho 
globe  of  the  sauu'  superficinl  aren.  This  Is  snying  a  prent  deal.  Let  us 
sec  :  she  hns  ice,  lumber,  ships,  snlt-fish,  snimon  and  lobsters,  coal,  iron, 
gold,  copper,  plaster,  slate,  grindstones,  fat  cnttle,  wool,  potatoes,  apj)le8, 
largo  game,  and  furs."    (Chaulks  HALLoriv,  1.S73.) 


17.    St  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

St.  John  to  Amherst,  see  preceding  rout«». 

Amherst  {Amfnmt  IfodI)  is  a  fionrlshing  town  midway 

between  St.  John  and  Hulifax  (i;?S  M.  from  each).  It  is  the  capital  of 
Cumberland  (.\nmty,  X(n-a  Scot  In,  and  is  pl(>asantly  sittiat(>d  at  the  head 
of  the  Cumberland  Basin,  one  of  the  great  arms  of  the  Bay  (»f  Kundy.  It 
has  4..')(>0  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  In  the  lumber  trade;  while  the  im- 
mense area  of  fertile  meadows  about  the  town  furnishes  profitable  employ- 
ment for  a  large  rural  po])\ilatlon.  Bi-weekly  stages  run  N.  K.  up  the 
valley  of  the  La  rianche  to  Tufniuli  (two  imis),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants 
on  Baie  Verte.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  N.  K.  to  S/iiniiin'ois  and  tho  largo 
farming  district  called  tho  Hc:id  of  Anihcrst,  which  has  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

Tho  present  «t>^nmln  of  Neva  SroMa  was  ceded  to  Onmt  Hrit^dn  V>y  the  Treiity  of 
rtrooht,  in  1713,  but  its  bonndaries  won'  not  dofinod.  mid  tlio  Fronoh  dotorniinod  to 
limit  it  on  tho  N.  to  tlie  Missipuash  Kivor.  To  this  ond  iiov.  \ai  .bniquii^rt'  sont  M. 
La  Oorno,  with  (W  soldioi-s.  to  oivot  forts  on  tho  lino  of  tho  Missijjniish.  The  war- 
rior-prio5t.  tho  Ahhe  I>!»lontiv  (Vionr-tJotionl  of  Acailio\  led  niaiiv  Aondians  to  this 
rloinity,  whoro  tho  Ihnirisliinjj:  sottloniont  of  Urnuhnssin  was  fotiiidod.  At  tho  same 
timo  La  Oorno  ostablisliod  a  rhain  of  military  posts  from  tho  Hay  of  Fundy  to  Haio 
Vorto,  tho  chief  fort  Wmfi  located  on  tho  prostMit  sito  of  Fort  Cnmhorland,  and  hoar- 
ii\i.r  'ho  name  of  nfnusfjoiir.  Tho  povornor  of  Nova  Scotia  sent  o>it  a  Hrltish  fon'o 
imdor  Miyor  I^iwronco.  who  captun'd  ami  destroyed  Roauhassin,  and  oroctod  Fort 
Lawronco  near  its  sito.  Tho  Acadians  were  industriously  lahoriiijj  in  tho  pom'ofnl 
pnrsuits  of  afrricnlturo  about  Hoanscjonr;  and  tho  King  of  Franco  had  granted 
SOaXX»  livros  for  tho  groat  nhoidrau  across  tho  Aulac  Hivcr.  Tho  British  oomplalncd, 
however,  that  tl»e  priests  wero  endeavoring  to  array  the  Acadian.-  against  them, 
nnd  to  entice  them  away  fhnu  tho  Nova-Scotian  Rhon>8.  It  was  resolved  that  tlie 
French  foroes  should  l>e  driven  from  their  position,  and  a  powerful  expedition  was 
fitU-iX  out  at  Boston.  ThpiH>  frigates  and  a  niimhor  of  transports  eouveying  tlie  New- 
Sngland  levies  sailed  up  the  Bay  of  Fundy  in  May,  17r>6,  and  debarked  a  strong 


innd  fr)i 

about  II 

fought  < 

their  ca 

Mi.^slgui 

When  tl 

ntjd  wit! 

log  out 

sent  to  I 

U)  (^uelM 

France. 

In  No 

gervilln, 

vesNo!  fri 

rison  (Ml 

tlu)  Ante 

lilockaile 

nian-of-w 

camp  wai 

lied  t.)  M, 

men  of  (I 

HUCCeSS    I) 

erablo  nu 

Tho  ru 
Aulac  \l\\ 
It  was  ke| 
and  Ntill  |i 
deserted. 
Ou  a  hold 
ar((  the  sc 
Acadians  t 
road,  is  //, 
I'rlsed  and 
The  ♦vi 
beauty. 
N()v.i-Sc«»ti 
wide  and 
looked,  —  t 
the  S.  tho 
(Cnmboriai 
Tho  grea 
boing  al.so 
slllcious  ni; 
tinction  fro 
of  tlio  n.iy 
dikes,  with 
Tho  land  tl 
ing  from  1 ' 
tivatod  now 


Mlniull 

the  estuarii' 
M:o  rich  luej 
of  ;^riiidston 
Mines,  pcrta 
Mines,  (»n  tli 
trict  is  road 
at  Chlgnecto 
penny  an  ac 
raised.  But 
ohinery  wero 
bourg). 


I 


f>\\  most 
horrlng, 
all  nsh 
e  fotitui 
imd  tho 

.  .  Woro 
:\nn  that 
y  OM  tho 
Let  us 
)al.  iron, 
I,  apples, 


I  n\i«hvay 
•npital  of 
I  tho  head 
iitly.     It 
tho  ini- 
t>  oinploy- 
:.  up  the 
hahitants 
tho  h>rp;c 
2,000  in- 


TiTnty  of 
lorinhuMl  to 
]rv  sont  M. 
The  war- 
Inns  to  Mils 
It  the  same 
luly  to  Hak' 
1,  ami  lioar- 
•Itish  fono 
foi'tocl  l''i>rt 
ho  ^toacoful 
Ind  jirnnti'tl 
joniplaiiKMl, 
)iiist  thi'iu, 
\h\  that  tho 
liUti(»n  was 
W  the  New- 
■«l  a  Ftronp 


FORT  CUMBERLAND. 


JimUe  17. 


79 


land  foron  at  Kort,  lAwmnce.  Menntimn  l,200-1,riOO  Arndlnnn  ha«I  twwn  ((athemd 
about  Heauw^joiir.  by  the  influence  or  the  \\}\t('  Lalontre,  and  a  Hharp  nklrniiflh  was 
fought,  on  liMsle  de  la  Valliere.  On  the  4th  of  June  thi<  Anxio-Anierican  foneM  h>rt 
their  ennips  on  the  jjhu  in  of  Kort,  liawrener,  routed  the  Aoidiaiif^  at  the  fonls  of  thfl 
Mi:4siKiiash,  and  advanrrd  h.v  |)arallelH  and  Hi«<|i;i-hticM  against  the  hostile  works. 
When  the  Ilritish  Imttrries  reiwlicil  Hutti«-ii,-<'hnrleH  tlir  fort  w«m  viKorou«ly  sin-lltMl, 
and  with  sneh  disiistruns  cITcrt  that  it  c/iiiitulatfMl  on  .hin«'  I'ltii.thi'  irarrison  nmreii. 
inj(  out  witli  arms,  lia^rj^aKe,  and  1mtni<>rs.  'I'ho  Krench  triKips  were  paroled  and 
Ht'iit  to  FjoMid)oiMy,  ami  the  Acailians  wi'H'  sulh-rrd  to  remain.  Laioutro,  esrapinff 
to  (iuehec,  there  received  an  e(  eltv-^iasticnl  censure,  and  was  afti'rwanis  remanded  to 
I'Vance. 

In  Novemher,  I77*>,  <'ol.  Kildy  led  a,  force  «»f  Massiichusi-tts  tro«»ps,  men  of  Mau- 
Hervllle,  Ac;uli;nis,  aiirl  Indians,  afrainst  Fort  4'nnd)erl;ind.  He  (Irst  cut  »iut  a  store- 
vessel  from  under  tlie  kuus  of  tlie  fort,  ntid  cnpMired  ncveral  def.icliments  of  the  gar- 
rison (Mm  lloyal  Kencihies).  The  ciMnmiitidant  refuseil  to  surrender,  an. I  repulsed 
the  Americans  in  a  night-attack,  hy  menus  of  a  furious  oiunonnde.  K/ldy  then 
hloekaded  tlie  fort  for  sever.il  d.ays,  itut  was  linnlly  driv«'ti  olT  hy  the  arrival  of  a 
man-of-war  from  Ifniifix,  lirinj^ing  a  reiufi>rcemeut  of  4<lO  men.  TJie  MassacliUM'ttf* 
cam))  was  broken  up  by  a  sortie,  ami  nil  its  storen  were  destroyed.  The  AFuericami 
lied  to  the  furent,  nud  fell  back  on  the  St.  .lolui  Hiver.  A  iiir^c  proportion  (»f  tiio 
men  of  (linnberlnud  County  went  t«)  .Maine  after  tids  r.irupaltifn,  dc^pniring  of  tlin 
success  of  llepublic;tid'<m  in  fclie  Maritime  Provinces.  Among  tliem  weru  n  consid- 
erable nuud)er  of  Acndians. 

Tho  rtiins  of  Kort  ('undterland  are  a  few  ndles  N.  \V.  of  Amherst,  beyond  tlio 
Aulae  llivcr.  and  on  a  hi;^li  lilulf  nt  the  H.  end  of  tlu;  Point  de  Ihite  r.iriKc  r»f  bills. 
It  was  kept  in  ri>pair  by  t\\o  Imperial  (lovernment  for  many  ye;ir.-<  afr<r  it,-t  cnpture, 
and  still  pres(>ntM  an  appearance  of  stren^tli  and  solidity,  tliou^li  it  has  l)e(;n  long 
dc.'^erted.  The  remains  of  the  be.sie^erH'  parallels  are  also  vi  ibie  near  the  works. 
On  a  bold  bluff  within  cniuion-Mliot,  on  tlie  fartlier  bank  of  tla^  Mi  !>iKuash  River, 
are  the  .scanty  remains  of  the  lirilish  Kort  b;iwreuc«'.  Niunerous  relics  of  the  ohi 
Acndians  may  still  be  tra«'ed  in  tliis  vicinity.  5  M.aliov((  tli((  fort,  on  the;  iJaie  Vert« 
road,  is  Iloof/i/  llritli^r^  vliere  a  Hriti.'^h  foraging  party  under  (Joi.  Dixon  was  sur- 
prLsetl  and  mn,sHacn'il  by  the  Indians  (under  Krench  onic«!r.K). 

Tile  *vi«'wfrom  tlie  iKistions  of  Kort  ('undtcrland  is  famous  for  its  ext^-nt  and 
beauty.  It  includes  Siukville  and  its  c(ille;:es  on  the;  N.  \V.,  Amlutrst  and  tiie 
Nov.i-Scoti.'in  .*<li()res  on  tlie  S.  K.,  and  the  blurTand  hamlet  of  Kort  Lawrence.  Tho 
wide  and  blooming  exjimse  of  the  Tfintr.iniar  niul  Missiguasli  Marshes  is  ovcr- 
lookeil,  —  tlie  view  iiK-ludiiig  over  H)}M)  acres  of  ricli  mariiut  intervale,  -and  on 
tho  S.  the  eye  trav(;ls  for  many  leagues  down  the  blue  sheet  of  tlie  Hay  ot  Fundy 
(Oumberland  llasiii). 

Tlio  Kreat  Taiitrniiiar  MjirHh  is  S.  of  Sac^kville,  and  is  \)  M.  bing  liy  4  M.  wide, 
being  also  traver.-<ed  by  the  Taninuiiar  and  Aulac  Rivt'rs.  It  in  conipose«l  of  lino 
sillcious  matter  deposited  as  marine  alluvium,  and  is  called  "  red  niar.-^h,"  in  rlls- 
tiiiction  from  the  "  blue  marsh  "  of  the  uplands.  The  low  shores  around  tho  htsad 
of  the  Hay  of  Kundy  for  a  distanct!  of  20  >!.  have  beeti  reclaimed  l)y  i\w  erection  of 
dikes,  with  ahoirfinir.r  at  the  mouths  of  tlio  rivtTS  to  i'xclud(!  the  flow  of  the  tideH. 
Tho  1,'ind  thus  g.iined  is  wry  rich,  ami  j)roduces  fine  crojis  of  Eoglisii  hay,  averag- 
ing from  1  '.4  to  2  tons  to  the  acre.  Tlie  land  stienis  iiiexhau.Htible,  having  l^'cn  cul- 
tivated now  tor  nearly  u  century  wltliout  rotation  or  fertili/.;ition. 

f 

The  Chiffticcto  Peninsula. 

Mlnudle  Is  8  M.  S.  W.  of  Amherst,  with  wliich  it  is  connert<?d  by  a  ferry  aerosa 
the  estuaries  of  the  Maecan  and  llebcrt  Rivers.  It  liius  »H)('  liiliabitants,  and  is  near 
tl-.e  rich  meadows  called  the  Klysijin  Kieids.  In  tlie  vicinity  are  profitable  quarrlon 
of  ^grindstones,  and  tliero  are  shad-tlsheries  to  the  S.  \V.  fJ-H  .M  H.  are  the  .lo^friuH 
Mines,  pertaining  to  tho  (ieno/ai  Mining  Association  of  London  ;  and  the  Vi<  toria 
Mines,  on  the  river  llebert.  (Joal  has  been  obi  lined  thence,-  for  2")  \ears.  This  dis- 
trict is  roaolied  by  stages  from  MiM'can  station.  Aoout  thi;  y«!ar  1730  the  coal-inineK 
at  Chigneoto  were  l(!U.sed  to  a  Uostoii  company,  which  was  to  pay  a  quit-rent  of  ono 
penny  an  acre  (on  4,0(H)  a<'res),  and  a  royalty  of  18  pence  \ht  chiildron  on  tlie  coal 
misod.  But  tliis  enterprise  wax  broken  up  In  17<'{2.  when  the  warehouses  and  ma- 
chinery were  destroyed  by  the  Indian.-*  (probably  IuciKmI  by  tlie  Freu"h  at  LouUv. 
bourg). 


80      Route  17. 


COBEQUID  MTS. 


The  Jogfdng  Shore  extends  to  the  S.  W.  along  the  Chignecto  Channel,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  geological  peculiarities,  which  have  been  vi-;ited  and  studied  by 
European  eavans.  The  local  explanation  of  thenan)e  is  that  the  cliffs  here  "jog  in  " 
and  out  in  an  unexampled  manner.  Tlie  height  of  the  cliffs  is  from  130  to  400  ft. ;  and 
the  width  of  the  Chignecto  Basin  is  from  5  to8  M.  35-40  M.  from  Amherst  is  Apple 
River,  a  sequestered  hamlet  on  the  estuary  of  the  Apple  River,  amidst  fine  marine 
scenery.  Apple  Head  is  just  W.  of  this  place,  and  is  413  ft.  high,  overlooking  the 
Chignecto  Channel  and  the  New-Brunswick  shores.  There  is  a  fixed  white  light  on 
its  outer  point.  To  the  E  ,  Apple  River  traverses  the  Carihou  Plains,  and  on  its 
upper  waters  affords  the  best  of  trout-fishing,  with  an  abundance  of  salmon  between 
February  and  July.  15-20  M.  8.  W.  of  Apple  River,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the 
Cobequid  Mts.  K.  of  Cape  Chignecto,  is  Advocate  Harbor  (see  Route  21). 

"The  road  from  Amherst  to  Parrsboro"  is  tedious  and  uninteresting.  In  places 
it  is  made  so  straight  that  you  can  see  several  miles  of  it  before  you,  which  produces 
an  appearance  of  interminable  length,  while  the  stunted  growth  of  the  spruce  and 
birch  trees  bespeaks  a  cold,  thin  soil,  and  invests  the  scene  with  a  melancholy  and 
sterile  aspect."  (Judge  Hauburton.)  This  road  is  33  M.  long,  ascending  the  val- 
ley of  the  Maccan  River,  and  passing  the  hamlet  of  Cannan,  near  the  Cobequid  Mts. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Amherst  to  Maccan  (stnges  to  Minudie 
and  Jojjgins),  in  the  great  coal-field  of  Cumberland  County.  A  railway 
runs  in  12  M.  froju  Maccan  to  the  Joggins  coal-mines.  From  Athol  the 
line  passes  to  Spring  Hill,  a  coal-mining  district,  wliMice  a  railway  has 
been  constructed  t«»  Parrsboro'  (see  Route  21).  11  M.  beyond  is  the  station 
at  River  Philip  (small  hotel),  a  pleasant  stream  in  which  good  fishing  is 
found.  Tlje  salmon  are  especially  abundant  during  the  springtime.  Oxford 
station  (two  inns;  has  two  small  wool'on  factories,  and  is  14  M.  S.  VV.  of 
Pugwash,  on  tlie  Northumberland  Strait.  A  railroad  runs  hence  to  the 
North  Shore. 

The  train  now  passes  through  extensive  forests,  in  which  many  sugar- 
maples  are  seen,  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Cobequid  Hts.,  with  the 
Wallace  Valley  below  on  the  1.  The  Cobequid  range  runs  almost  due  E. 
and  W.  from  Truro,  and  is  100  M.  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  10-12 
M.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  rounded  hills,  800-1,000  feet  high,  cov- 
ered with  tall  and  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  sugar-maple.  From 
Thomson,  Greenville,  and  Wentworth  stations  stages  run  to  Wallace  and 
Pugwash  (see  page  81),  also  to  Tatamagouche.  The  railway  traverses  the 
hill-country  by  the  Folli/  Pass,  and  has  its  heaviest  grades  between  Folly 
Lake  and  Londonderry;  where  are  also  2-3  M.  of  snow-sheds,  to  protect 
the  deep  cuttings  from  the  drifting  in  of  snow  from  the  hills.  Fine  views 
of  the  Wallace  Valley  are  afforded  from  the  open  levels  of  the  line.  From 
Londonderry  a  railway  runs  to  Acadia  Mines,  a  town  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
with  4  churches.  Here  are  the  blast-furnaces  and  rolling-mill  of  the  Can- 
ada Steel  Co,  The  ores  are  magnetic,  specular,  and  hematite,  and  occur  in 
a  wedire-shaped  vein  7  M.  long  and  120  ft.  thick.  Daily  stages  run  from 
Londonderry  to  Economy  and  Five  L^lands.     (See  page  105.) 

The  train  descends  from  the  Pass  along  the  line  of  tiie  Folly  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a  bridge  200  feet  above  the  water.  Beyond  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  Dtbert  (stages  to  Economy  and  Five  Islands)  the  descent  is  con- 
tinued, and  occasional  views  of  the  Cob-quid  Bay  are  given  as  the  train 
passes  across  Onslow  to  Truro.  The  landscape  now  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing and  thickly  settled. 


Tru 

and  pi 
situati 
Minas 
theatn 
meado 
and  til 
are  ca 
cludin< 
county 

Truro 
sion  fro 
1761  a 
peaceful 

A  roa< 
pa.s8!ng 
Great  Vi 
an  Piqu< 
(45  M.). 

■Stages 
N.  K.  to 

Truro 
way  (see 


Stages 
gouche, 
Annan ; 
wasij,  da 
accessiblt 

In  pa? 

Mts.  and 

(two  inr 

Northun 

building 

6  M.  to 

also  on 

the  shipl 

Protestai 

vening  c( 

The  ra 

of  2,600 

nierly  cal 

large  qua 

The  Prov 

N.  E  ,  hey 

Harbor,  \ 

inn)  is  10 


"1 


TRURO. 


Route  17.       81 


Tmro  {Parker  House ;  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel ;  Victoria)  is  a  wealthy 
and  prosperous  town  of  over  5,000  Inhabitants,  and  occupies  a  pleasant 
situation  2  M.  from  the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay  (an  arm  of  the  Basin  of 
Minas).  The  level  site  of  the  town  is  nearly  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  gracefully  rounded  hills,  and  on  the  W.  are  the  old  diked 
meadows  of  the  Acadian  era.  Truro  is  the  capital  of  Colchester  County 
and  the  seat  of  the  Provincial  Normal  School.  Fishing  and  shipbuilding 
are  carried  on  here,  and  there  are  large  and  growing  manufactures,  in- 
cluding boots  and  shoes,  woollens,  and  iron-wares.  The  neighboring 
county  has  valuable  firming-lands,  and  contains  several  iron-mines. 

Truro  was  nettled  at  an  early  date  by  the  Acadian  French,  and  after  their  expul- 
sion from  Nova  Scotia  was  occupied  by  Scotch-Irish  from  New  Hampshire,  In 
1761  a  large  nuuiber  of  disbanded  Irish  troops  settled  here,  and  engaged  in  the 
peaceful  pursuits  of  agriculture. 

A  road  runs  W.  from  Truro  between  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  the  Ba«in  of  Minas, 
passing  Masstown  (10  M. ) ;  Folly  Village  (14  M.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Folly  River; 
Great  Village  (18  M.),  a  place  of  600  inhabitants  ;  Highland  Village  (21  M.) ;  Port 
au  Pique  (23  M.) ;  Bass  River  (27  M.) ;  Upper  Economy  (28  M.) ;  and  Five  Island* 
(46  M.).    (See  Route  22.)    The  stages  run  from  Debert  station. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Clifton,  Black  Rock,  and  Maitland,  on  Cobequid  Bay,  and 
N.  E.  to  Earl  ton  and  W.  Branch  River  John. 

Truro  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way (see  Route  31). 

The  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Stages  run  from  various  stations  to  the  North  Shore,  —  ft-om  Truro  to  Tatama- 
gouche,  etc. ;  from  Weutwortli  for  Wallace,  Pugwash,  Tatamagouche,  and  New 
Annan ;  from  Greenville  to  Wallace  and  Wallace  Bridge ;  from  Thomson  to  Pug- 
wash, daily.  The  new  railway  from  Oxibrd  makes  the  North-Shore  ports  more 
accessible  than  by  the  old  stage-routes. 

In  passing  from  Truro  to  Tatamagouche  the  road  crosses  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  descends  through  a  thinly  settled  region  to  the  N.  Tatamagouche 
(two  inns)  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  large  harbor  which  opens  on  the 
Northumberland  Strait,  and  has  about  1,500  inhabitants.  Some  ship- 
building is  done  here,  and  there  are  ..eestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity. 
6  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  large  village  of  Brule  Harbor,  and  6  M.  farther  E., 
also  on  the  Tatamagouche  Bay,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  John,  is 
the  shipbuilding  settlement  of  Etver  John,  which  was  founded  by  Swiss 
Protestants  in  1763.  It  is  20  M.  from  this  point  to  Pictou,  and  the  inter- 
vening coast  is  occupied  by  colonists  from  the  Hebrides. 

The  railway  runs  \V.  f.oin  Tatamagonclie  to  Wallace  (two  inns),  a  town 
of  2,600  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  deep  waters  of  Wallace  Harbor  (for- 
merly called  Remsheg).  Plaster,  lime,  and  freestone  are  found  here  in 
large  quantities,  and  the  latter  is  being  quarried  by  several  companies. 
The  Provincial  Building  at  Halifax  was  made  of  Wallace  stone.  To  the 
N.  E  ,  beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Mullin  Point,  is  the  marine  hamlet  of  Fox 
Harbor,  whose  original  settlers  came  from  the  Hebrides.  Pugwash  (small 
inn)  is  10  M.  beyond  Wallace,  and  is  a  flourishing  port  with  about  8,300 
4»  F 


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82       JimUe  17. 


GOLD  MINES. 


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Iwlm 

MHT 

n 

i  ,    !'r| 

'    '  1 

inhabitants.  The  harbor,  though  difficult  of  access,  is  deep  and  well  shel- 
tered, and  has  several  ship-yards  on  its  shores.  The  chief  exports  of  Pug- 
wash  arc  deals  and  lumber,  freestone,  lime,  and  plaster. 


The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Truro  to  Brcokfield,  whence  hav  and 
lumber  are  exported,  and  then  to  Stewincke,  which  is  3  M.  from  the  pretty 
farming  village  of  the  same  name,  on  the  Stewiacke  River.  The  next  sta- 
tion is  Shubenncndle  (International  Hotel),  a  busy  little  manufacturing 
village  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

Daily  stages  descend  the  valley  of  the  Shnbenacadic  for  18  M.  to  the  N.  to  the 
town  of  Maitlanil  (two  iunH),  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  (see  Route  22)  Stiipes  also 
run  S.  E.  (Tuesday  and  Thursday)  to  Gay's  River  (7  M.)»  Gay's  River  Road  (14  M  ), 
Middle  Musquodoboit  (21  M  ),  Upper  Musquodoboit  (25  M.),  Melrose,  Guysborough, 
and  Port  Mulgnive,  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  Gold  was  disoovereti  near  Gay's  River 
in  1862,  in  the  cenRlouierate  rock  of  the  great  ridge  called  the  Roar's  Back,  which 
extends  for  60  M.  through  the  inland  towns.  It  nearly  resembles  the  alluvial  de- 
posits found  in  the  placer-diggings  of  California,  and  the  stream-wtushings  have 
inelded  as  high  ns  an  ounce  per  man  daily.  Scientific  mining  was  begun  in  18t'3, 
>ut  has  given  only  light  returns.  Middle  Musquodoboit  is  a  fiirming-town  with 
about  1,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  .S.  of  the  Boar's  Back  ri  ge,  42  M.  from 
Halifax.  Upper  Musquodoboit  is  about  the  same  size,  and  beyond  that  point  the 
stages  traverse  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  district  for  several  leagues,  to  Melrose. 

The  Halifax  train  nms  S.  W.  to  Elmsdale,  a  village  near  the  Shuben- 
acadie  River,  engaged  in  making  leather  and  carriages.  Enfield  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  pottery.  7  M.  N.  W.  are  the  Renfrew  Gold-Mines^  where 
gold-bearing  quartz  was  discovered  in  1861.  Much  money  and  labor  were 
at  first  wasted  by  inexperienced  miners,  but  of  late  years  '^he  lodes  have 
been  worked  systematically,  and  are  considered  among  the  most  valuable 
in  Nova  Scotia.  The  average  yield  is  16  i)ennywei^lits  of  gold  to  a  ton  of 
quartz,  and  in  1869  these  mines  yielded  3,097  ouncos  of  the  precious  metal, 
valued  at  $61,490.  The  Oldham  Mines  are  3^  M.  8.  of  Enfield,  and  are 
in  a  deep  narrow  valley,  along  whose  bottom  shafts  have  been  sunk  to 
reach  the  auriferous  quartz.  Between  1861  and  1869.  9,264  ounces  of  gold 
were  sent  from  the  Oldham  diggings.  In  188J  1,500  tons  of  quarts  were 
crushed,  yielding  over  3,000  ounces  of  gold. 

Soon  after  leaving  Enfield  the  train  passes  along  the  S.  E.  shore  of  Grand 
Lake,  which  is  8  M.  long  by  1-2  M.  wide.  It  crosses  the  outlet  stream, 
nms  around  Long  Lake,  and  intersects  the  Windsor  Branch  Railway  at 
Windsor  Junction.  Station,  Jiochj  Lake,  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
where  large  quantities  of  ice  are  cut  by  the  Nova-Scotia  Ice  Company,  for 
exportation  to  the  United  States.  3  M.  N.  E.  of  this  station  are  the  Waver- 
ley  Gold-Mines,  where  the  gold  is  foimd  in  barrel-quartz,  so  named  because 
it  appears  in  cylindrical  masses  like  barrels  laid  side  by  side,  or  like  a 
corduroy-road.  At  its  first  discovery  all  the  floi^ting  population  of  Halifax 
flocked  out  here,  but  they  failed  to  better  their  condition,  and  the  total 
yield  between  1861  and  1869  was  only  about  1,600  ouncos.  Waverley  vil- 
lage is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  between  two  lakes,  and 
has  about  600  inhabitants. 


ANNAPOLIS   ROUTE. 


Route  18.      88 


After  crossing  Rocky  Lake  the  train  soon  reaches  the  pretty  village  of 
Bedford  {Bedford  Hotel),  on  the  shores  of  the  beautiful  Bedford  Bnsin^ 
and  follows  their  graceful  curves  for  several  miles.  On  the  1.  are  fine 
views  of  the  hills  beyond  the  blue  water.  Tliere  is  a  Dominion  tish-hatchery 
at  Bedford. 

Halifax,  see  page  93. 


18.    St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley. 

This  is  the  pleasantest  route,  during  calm  weather,  between  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  After  a  passage  of  about  4  liours  in  the  stoauuT,  across  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  the  pretty  scenery  of  the  Annapolis  Basin  ia  tmversed,  and  at  Annapolis 
the  pa&^jenger  takes  the  train  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Railway,  which  runs 
tnrough  to  Halifax.  The  line  traverses  a  comparatively  rich  and  picturesque  coun- 
try, abounding  in  historic  and  poetic  associations  of  the  deepest  interest. 

The  distance  between  St.  .lohn  and  Halifax  by  tliis  route  is  84  M,  less  than  by  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  ;  but  the  time  on  botii  routes  is  about  the  same,  on  account 
of  fhe  delav  in  cos'^inL:  the  Bay  of  Funilv.  Thf  steamer  leaves  St.  John  at  7  A  ¥., 
on  Mondaj',  Weilnosday,  ThurMiay,  Fridivv,  and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  ex- 
press trains  which  leave  Annapolis  at  1.10  p.  m.  and  arrive  at  Halifax  at  about  7 
P.M.  Express  trains  leave  Halifax  at  8  15  a.  m  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  Friday, 
and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  steamer  which  leaves  Annapolis  at  1.80  p.  M. 
and  arrives  at  St.  John  at  6  P.  M. 

Farts.  — ^i.  .)oa:i  to  Ha.ifax,  Istclass,  $4.50;  2dclass,  !J3  50;  to  Digby,  $160; 
to  Annapolis  $2.  P.is.sengers  for  Halifax  dine  on  tlie  steamer  iind  take  tea  at  Kent- 
ville  (15  minutes) :  tho.se  for  St.  John  lunch  at  Kentville  (10  minutes)  and  din » 
on  the  boat.  There  are  two  through  trains  each  way  daily  between  Ilallfax  aud 
Annapolis.  ^ 

Ofstances.  —  St.  JohntoI)igby,43M. ;  Annapolis,  61 ;  Round  Hill.  68;  Bridge- 
town, 76;  Paradise,  80;  Lawrencetown,  83;  Middleton,  89;  Wilmot,  92;  Kingston, 
96;  Morden  Road ,  101 ;  Aylesford,  103;  Berwick,  108;  VVaterville,  111 ;  Cambridge, 
113;  Coldbrook,  115;  Kentville,  120;  Port  Williams,  125;  Wolfvillc,  127;  Grand 
Pr6, 130;  Ilorton  Landing,  131;  Avonport,  133;  Hantsport,  138;  Mount  Denson, 

"'"    " "     ""■        "■      "     "'  '"'     Ellers- 

sor  Junc- 
193. 

The  steamer  leaves  her  wharf  at  Reed's  roiiit,  St.  .John,  and 

soon  passes  the  heights  and  spires  of  Carleton  on  the  r.  and  the  lighthouse 
on  Partridge  Island  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  Mispeck  Point  is  seen.  Cope 
Spencer  is  then  opened  to  the  E.,  on  the  New  Brunswick  coa.^t,  and  the 
steamer  sweeps  out  into  the  open  bay.  In  ordinary  summer  weather  the 
bay  is  quiet,  except  for  a  light  tidal  swell,  and  will  not  affect  the  traveller. 

Soon  after  passing  Partridge  Island,  the  dark  ridge  of  the  North  Mt.  is 
seen  in  advance,  cleft  by  the  gap  called  the  *  Digby  Gut,  which,  in  the 
earlier  days,  was  known  as  St.  George's  Channel.  The  course  is  laid 
straight  for  this  pass,  and  the  steamer  runs  in  by  Point  Prim,  with  its  fog- 
whistle  and  fixed  light  (visible  13  M.),  and  enters  the  tide-swept  defile, 
with  bold  and  mountainous  bluffs  rising  on  either  side.  The  shores  on 
the  1.  are  610  feet  high,  and  on  the  r.  400-560  ft.,  between  which  the  tide 
rushes  with  a  velocity  of  5  knots  an  hour,  making  broad  and  powerful 
swirls  and  eddies  over  12-25  fathoms  of  water.  After  running  for  about 
2  M.  through  this  passage,  the  steamer  enters  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and 
rung  S.  by  E.  3  M.  to  Digby. 


U 


84 


Route  18. 


ANNAPOLIS  BASIN. 


fle*  ' 


t'l 


"The  white  konses  of  Digby,  scatteTed  over  the  downs  like  a  flock  of  washed 
sheep,  had  a  Bomewhat  chilly  aspect,  it  is  true,  and  made  U8  long  for  the  bud  on 
them  But  a»  1  think  of  it  now,  I  prefer  to  have  the  town  and  the  pretty  hillsideii 
that  8tand  about  the  basin  in  the  light  we  naw  theui ;  atul  especially  do  I  like  to 
recall  the  high  wooden  pier  at  Digby,  deserted  by  the  tide  and  ho  blown  by  the  wind 
that  the  piusHengers  who  eunie  out  on  it,  with  their  tossing  drapery,  brought  to  uiiud 
the  windy  Dutch  harbors  that  BackhliyHen  painted."    (Warner's  Jiaddcck.) 

Digby  {Daily's  Hold)  is  a  maritime  village  of  about  1,800  inhabitants, 
with  6  clmrciies,  2  weekly  paper.s,  and  ZO  shops,  situated  on  the  S.  W. 
shore  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fish- 
eries of  haddock,  mackerel,  and  herring.  Tlie  Digb^-^  herring  are  famous  for 
their  delicacy,  and  are  known  in  the  Provinces  as  *'  Digbv  chickens." 
Porpoises,  also,  are  caught  in  the  swift  currents  of  the  Digby  Gut.  Quite 
recently  Digby  has  become  well  known  as  a  summer-resort.  The  fogs 
which  hang  like  a  pall  over  the  Bay  of  Fund}'  are  not  encountered  here-, 
and  the  lovely  scenery  hereabouts,  and  boating,  bathing,  and  fishing  afford 
sufticient  amusement.  The  comfortable  Myrtle  Iluu.'ie,  near  the  water, 
amid  three  acres  of  fruit-orchards,  is  crowded  all  summer  by  Americans 
and  Canadians.  There  is  a  steamship  line  from  Boston  to  Digby  direct. 
A  French  fort  stood  here  in  the  early  days;  and  in  1783  tlie  township  was 
granted  to  the  ex-American  Loyalists.  A  railroad  runs  to  Yarmouth  and 
to  Annapolis. 

*'  That  portion  of  Acadia  at  wi|ich  the  voyagers  had  now  arrived  is  distinguished 
by  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  The  coast  along  which  they  had  previously  sailed  is 
comparatively  rugged.  Bur  on  entering  the  Ba,«in  the  scene  is  changed,  many  of  the 
peculiar  elements  which  lend  a  charm  to  the  Acadian  landscape  being  found  in  har- 
monious combination.  Towards  the  east,  islands  repose  on  the  bosom  of  the  deep, 
their  forms  being  viviuly  mirrort^d  on  its  placid  surface,  and  from  which  canoes  may 
he  8eei>  darting  towards  the  mainland,  with  their  paddles  fitfully  flniihing  in  the 
Biinlight.-  In  the  distance  are  graceful,  undulating  hills,  thickly  clad,  from  base  to 
8ummit,  with  birch,  maple,  hemlot!k,  and  spruce  woods,  constituting  an  admirable 
background  to  the  whole  scene."    (Campbell's  History  of  Nova  Scotia.) 

The  noble  *  Annapolis  Basin  gradually  decreases  from  a  width  of  nearly 
b  M.  to  1  M.,  and  is  hemmed  in  between  the  converging  ridges  of  the 
North  Mt.  and  the  South  Mt.  The  former  range  has  a  height  of  6  -  700  ft., 
and  Ja  bold  and  mountainous  in  its  outlines.  The  South  Mt.  is  from  300 
to  5(K)  ft,  high,  and  its  lines  of  ascent  are  more  gradual.  The  North  Mi. 
was  once  insulated,  and  the  tides  flowed  through  the  whole  valley,  until  a 
shoal  at  the  confluence  of  the  Blomidon  and  Digby  currents  became  a  bar, 
and  this  in  time  became  dry  land  and  a  water-shed. 

Between  the  head  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  slopes  of  the  Annapolis  Bnsin 
are  the  rarely  visited  and  .sequestered  hill-ranges  called  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains. "  The  Indians  are  said  to  have  formerly  resorted  periodically  to 
groves  among  these  wilds,  which  they  considered  as  consecrated  places, 
in  order  to  offer  sacrifices  to  their  ;;ods." 

"  We  were  sailing  along  the  gracefully  moulded  and  tree-covered  hills  of  the  An- 
napolis Basin,  and  up  the  mildly  pictuiesque  river  of  that  name,  and  we  were  about 
to  enter  what  the  provincials  all  enthusiastically  call  the  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia. 
....  It  is,  —  this  valley  of  Annapolis,  —  in  the  belief  of  provincials,  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  blooming  place  in  the  world,  with  a  soil  and  climate  kind  to  the  husband- 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


liouU  18.       86 


ivuhed 
nun  on 
illsideH 
like  to 
te  wiDd 
o  luind 
.) 

itants, 

S.  W. 

le  fish- 

ous  for 

kens." 

Quite 
le  fogs 
i  here-, 
J  afford 

water, 
lericans 
'  direct, 
hip  was 
uth  and 

nguished 
(tailed  is 
ny  of  the 
d  in  har- 
he  deep, 
oea  may 
g  in  the 
base  to 
mirable 

nearly 

of  the 

^  700  ft., 

iom  300 

Irth  Mi. 

until  a 

a  bar, 

lis  Basin 
Moun- 

|cully  to 
places, 


the  An- 

tre  about 

Scotia. 

it  beau< 

lusband- 


man,  a  land  of  fUir  meadows,  orchardH,  and  Tines It  was  not  until  we  had 

travelled  over  the  rest  of  the  country  that  we  saw  the  appropriateness  of  the 
designation.  The  i>xplanation  is,  that  not  ho  much  is  required  of  a  garden  here  as 
in  some  other  parts  of  the  world." 

Soon  after  leaving  Digby,  Bear  Island  is  seen  in-shore  on  the  r.,  in  front 
of  the  little  port  of  Bear  Jiii'er  (inn),  which  has  a  foundry,  tanneries,  and 
saw-mills.  Iron  and  gold  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  atid  lumber  and  cord- 
wood  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  A  few 
»:;".Ic>  beyond,  and  also  on  the  S.  shore,  is  th.e  hamlet  of  Clement  sport  (two 
inns),  wh?re  large  iron-works  were  formerly  established,  in  connectio  i 
with  the  ore-beds  to  the  S.  Roads  lead  thence  to  the  S.  W.  in  10-12  M. 
to  the  romantic  districts  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  the  upper  Liverpool  Lakes 
(see  Route  27),  at  whose  entrance  is  the  rural  village  of  Clement svale. 

8-10  M.  beyond  Digby  the  steamer  passes  Goat  Island,  of  which 

Lescarbot  writes,  in  Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvelle  France  (1609)  : 

*'  Adieu  mon  doux  pi    <ir  fonteines  et  ruisseaux, 
Oui  lc8  vaux  et  les  inunts  urruusez  de  vos  euux. 
Pourray-je  t'oublier,  belle  He  foredere 
Riche  nonneur  do  ce  lieu  et  de  cette  riviere  ?" 

In  1707  the  British  frigate  Annibal  and  two  brigautines  were  sailing  up  the  Basin  to 
attack  Annapolis,  when  they  met  such  a  sharp  volley  from  the  He  aux  Chevres  that 
they  were  forced  to  retire  in  confusion.  The  French  name  of  the  island  was  Angli- 
cised by  translation.  On  the  point  near  this  island  was  the  first  settlement  of  the 
French  in  Nova  Scotia.  A  fort  was  erected  here  by  the  Scottish  pioneers,  and  was 
restored  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of  Si.  Germain,  after  which  it  was  garrisoned  by 
French  troops.  In  1827  a  stone  block  was  found  on  the  point,  inscribed  with  a 
square  and  compass  and  the  date  "  1606,"  In  May,  1782,  there  was  a  naval  combat 
off  Goat  Island,  in  which  an  American  war-brig  of  8  gnus  was  captured  by  H.  M.  S. 
Buckram. 

Above  the  island  the  Basin  is  about  1  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  farm- 
streets.  To  the  N.  E.,  across  a  low  alluvial  point,  are  seen  the  spires  and 
ramparts  of  Annapolis  Royal,  where  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf, 
after  passing  under  the  massive  walls  of  the  old  fortress.  There  are  sev- 
eral small  inns  here,  the  Dominion,  Commercial,  American,  Clifton,  Per- 
kins, Hillsdale,  and  Oakland  Farm,  etc.,  and  Mrs.  Grassie's  summer  board- 
in.j;-house.  Their  rates  are  $5-6  a  week,  and  board  can  be  obtained  on 
adjacent  farms  for  $3-5  a  week.  A  railway  runs  from  Annapolis  to  Clem- 
entsport,  8^  M.;  Victoria  Bridge,  13^;  Digby,  20.^;  and  thence  to  Yar- 
mouth, 87^.  Stages  run  S.  E.  78  M.  to  Liverpool  (see  Route  27).  Stenm- 
boats  leave  Annapolis  for  Boston,  direct,  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  after- 
noon; and  another  steamboat  makes  daily  trip«  between  Annapolis  and 
Digbv,  connecting  with  the  Western-Counties  Railway. 

Annapolis  Boyal,  the  capital  of  Annapolis  County,  is  a  maritime  and 
agricultural  village,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  con- 
tains 1,200  inhabitants.  It  is  frequented  by  summer  visitors  on  account 
of  its  pleasant  environs  and  tempered  sea-air,  and  the  opportunities  for  salt- 
water fishing  in  the  Basin,  and  trouting  among  the  hills  to  the  S.  The 
chief  object  of  interest  to  the  passing  traveller  is  the  *  old  fortress  which 
fronts  the  Basin  and  covers  28  acres  with  its  ramparts  and  outworks.  It 
is  entered  by  the  way  of  the  fields  opposite  Perkins's  Hotel.  The  works 
are  disarmed,  and  have  remained  unoccupied  for  many  years.    One  of  the 


^;  i>^ 


!■' 


V' 


86       Route  18. 


ANNAPOLIS   ROYAL. 


I 


; 


last  occupations  was  that  cf  the  Riflo  Brigade,  hi  1850;  but  the  post  was 
abandoned  soon  after,  on  account  of  the  numerous  and  successful  deser- 
tions which  thinned  the  ranks  of  the  garrison.  Hut  wlien  Canada  passed 
into  a  state  of  semi-independence  in  1867,  this  fortress  was  one  of  the  few 
domains  reserved  to  the  British  Crown.  Die  inner  fort  is  entered  by  an 
ancient  archway  which  fronts  towards  the  Basin,  giving  passage  to  the 
parade-ground,  on  wliich  are  tlie  quaint  old  Kngiish  barracks,  with  steep 
roofs  and  great  chimneys.  In  the  S.  E.  bastion  is  tlie  magazine,  with  a 
vaulted  roof  of  masonry,  near  which  are  tlie  foun''  ns  of  the  French 
barracks.    From  the  parapet  on  tills  side  are  ovei  \  the  landward  out- 

works and  the  lines  of  tlie  old  Hessian  and  Waldecker  settlements  towards 
Clementsport.  On  the  hillside  beyond  the  marsh  is  seen  an  ancient  house 
of  the  era  of  the  French  occupation,  the  only  one  now  standing  in  the  val- 
ley. In  the  bastion  towards  the  river  is  a  vaulted  room,  whence  a  passage 
leads  down  to  the  French  garrison-wharf;  but  the  arched  way  has  fallen 
in,  and  the  wharf  is  now  but  a  shapeless  pile  of  stones.  The  *  view  from 
this  angle  of  the  works  is  very  beautiful,  including  the  villages  of  Annapo- 
lis Royal  and  Granville,  the  sombre  heights  of  the  North  and  South  Mts., 
and  the  Basin  for  many  miles,  with  Goat  Island  in  the  distance. 

The  road  which  leads  by  the  fortress  passes  the  old  garrison  cemetery, 
St.  Luke's  Church,  the  court-house  and  county  academy,  and  many 
quaint  and  antiquated  mansions.  A  ferry  crosses  to  Granville,  a  little 
shipbuilding  village,  with  700  inhabitants.  A  road  leads  hence  across  tlie 
North  Mt.  in  4-5  M.,  to  Hillshurn  and  Leitchjield, 

"  Annapolis  Roj'al  is  a  picturesque  little  town,  almost  surrounded  by  water,  at 
the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin  On  both  sides  of  the  Basin  rise  mountains  whose 
background  of  vegetation  lends  a  peculiar  charm  to  the  landscape.  Fruit  of 
almost  every  kind  common  to  this  continent  may  be  found  here  in  its  season.  East- 
ward you  may  proceed  by  railway  to  the  scene  of  Longfellow's  great  poem  of  '  Evange- 
line '  through  a  perpetual  scene  of  orchards,  dike  lands,  and  viHages,  skirted  on 
both  sides  by  dreamy  mountains,  till  you  reach  the  grand  expanse  of  the  Basin  of 
Minas,  with  Blomidon,  the  abode  of  sea- nymphs,  holding  eternal  guard  in  the 
distance.  Annapolis  Royal  and  Granville  Ferry  offer  special  sanitary  privileges  to 
the  weary,  the  invalid,  and  the  pleasure-seeker  ;  bathing,  trouting,  hunting,  boat- 
ing, picnicking, are  all  enjoyed  in  turn  From  the  mountain  slopes,  whither  parties 
go  for  a  day's  enjoyment,  the  prospect  is  unrivalled,  and  the  air  invigorating.  The 
thermometer  rarely  rises  above  90  degrees  in  the  day,  while  the  night  air  is  cool 
enough  for  blankets  and  light  overcoats.  A  moonlight  excursion  on  the  Basin 
id  something  to  reiueuibur  for  a  lifetiiiie." 

The  Basin  of  Annapolis  was  first  entered  in  1604  by  De  Monts's  fleet,  exploring  the 
shores  of  Acadie ;  and  the  beauty  of  the  scene  so  impressed  the  Baron  de  Pou- 
trincourt  that  he  secured  a  grant  here,  and  named  it  Port  Royal.  After  the  failure 
of  the  colony  at  St.  Croix  Island,  the  people  moved  to  this  point,  bringing  all 
their  stores  and  supplies,  and  settled  on  the  N.  side  of  the  river.  In  July,  1606, 
Lescarboi  and  another  company  of  Frenchmen  joined  the  new  settlement,  and 
conducted  improvements  of  the  land,  while  Poutrincourt  and  Champlain  explored 
the  Massachusetts  coast  400  Indians  had  been  gathered  by  the  sagamore  Member- 
tou  in  a  stockaded  village  near  the  fort,  and  all  went  on  well  and  favorably  until  De 
Monts'a  grant  was  annulled  by  the  King  of  France,  and  then  the  colony  was  aban- 
doned. 


Foui 

with  a 

from  I 

when  1 

bertou 

cannon 

followe 

Pout 

take  ou 

but  wei 

earth, « 

under  i 

they  lei 

and  fou 

gin  Ian s 

their  fl( 

out  in  1 

in  the  f( 

killed,  ti 

It  is  a 

Port  Ro 

Fmnce  ii 

infinite  1 

the  peac< 

Bet  wet 

and  was 

Kirk,  wi( 

de  Razillj 

wards  bei 

naval  offl 

Laliave  (.* 

Tour,  am 

begin  th( 

frojn  Port 

La  Tour, 

In  1654 

Rochelle, 

Vendjiiie, 

same  year 

habitants 

,  By  the  ( 

live-stock 

captured  1 

ld90  the  1 

Sir  VVilliai 

few  month 

the  Cheva 

wrote :  * 

than  a  litt 

by  the  acci 

England. 

to  truck  fo 

2  regiment 

An  attemp 

vigilance  a 

forced  to  n 

chusetts  at 

by  the  Bar 

Americans 

made  arrar 

Island,  "wi 

pirates." 

In  the  au 
Aam,  Star, 


1 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


liuKtC  IS. 


87 


Pour  years  later  the  brave  Baron  de  Poutrincourt  left  his  e^tateH  in  Champagne, 
with  a  deep  car^o  of  HUpplie.s,  descemleii  i\w  riverw  Auhe  and  Heine,  and  Hailed  out 
from  Dieppe  (Feb.  2fi,  llilO)  On  arriving  at  Port  Royal,  ever}  thing  svas  found  aa 
when  left:  and  tlie  work  of  pro.selyting  the  Indians  wiw  iit  onee  «Mitered  on.  Meui- 
bertou  and  hi.s  tribe  wore  converteil,  Imptized,  and  ftuisted,  amid  sjilutes  from  the 
cannon  and  the  chanting  of  the  Te  Deum  ;  and  numerouH  other  forest-clann  soon 
followed  the  sunie  course. 

Poutrincourt  was  a  (iallican  Catholic,  and  h;itod  the  Jesuits,  but  w.-is  forced  to 
take  out  two  of  tlicni  to  his  new  domain.  Tliey  lussunied  a  high  authority  tliere, 
but  were  sternly  rebuked  by  the  Baron,  who  said,  "  It  is  my  part  to  rule  you  on 
earth,  and  yours  only  to  guide  nie  to  lieuven."  They  threatened  to  lay  Port  Uoyal 
under  interdict ;  and  Poutrincourt's  son  and  succe.ssor  so  greatly  resented  this  that 
they  left  the  colony  on  a  mission  ship  sent  out  hy  the  Marchioness  de  Ouercheville, 
and  founded  St.  Sauveur,  on  the  island  of  Mount  Desert.  In  1«)13,  after  tl»e  Vir- 
ginians under  Capt.  Argall  had  destroyed  St.  Sauveur,  tlie  vengeful  Jesuits  piloted 
their  fleet  to  Port  Uoyal,  which  wa,s  completely  demolished.  Poutrincourt  came 
out  in  1014  only  to  find  his  colony  in  ruins,  and  tlie  remnant  of  the  i)eople  wandering 
in  the  forest ;  and  was  so  disheartened  that  he  i*eturned  to  France,  where  he  waa 
killed,  the  next  year,  in  the  battle  of  Mcry-sur-Seine. 

It  is  a  memorable  fact  that  these  attacks  of  the  Virginians  on  Mount  Desert  and 
Port  Royal  were  tlie  very  commencement  of  the  wars  between  (Jreat  liritain  and 
Friince  in  North  America,  "  which  scarcely  ever  entirely  ceitsed  until,  at  the  cost  of 
infinite  blood  and  treasure,  France  was  stripped  of  all  her  possessions  in  America  by 
the  peace  of  1763." 

Between  1620  and  1630  an  ephemeral  Scottish  colony  was  located  at  Port  Royal, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  French,  in  1628  the  place  was  captured  by  Sir  David 
Kirk,  with  an  English  fleet,  and  was  left  in  ruins.  In  1634  it  was  uranted  to  Claude 
de  Razilly,  "  Seigneur  de  ilaziily,  dea  Eaux  Mesles  et  Cuon,  en  Anjou,"  who  after- 
wards became  conmiandant  of  Oleron  and  vice-admiral  of  France.  He  was  a  bold 
naval  officer,  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu ;  and  his  brother  Isaac  commanded  at 
Lahave  (see  Route  25).  His  lieutenants  were  D'Aulnay  Charnisay  and  Charles  de  la 
Tour,  and  he  transferred  all  his  Acadian  estates  to  the  former,  in  1642,  aitjsr  which 
beg  in  the  feudal  wars  between  those  two  nobles  (see  page  ID).  Several  fleets  .sailed 
from  Port  Royal  to  attack  I^Tour,  at  St.  John;  and  a  Boston  fleet,  in  alliance  with 
La  Tour,  assailed  Port  Royal. 

In  1654  the  town  was  under  the  rule  of  Kmmanuel  le  Borgne,  a  merchant  of  La 
Rochelle,  who  had  succeeded  to  D'Aulnay "s  estates,  by  the  aid  of  Cesar,  Duke  of 
Vendjnie,  on  account  of  debts  due  to  him  from  t»ie  Acadian  lord.  Later  in  the 
same  year  the  fortress  was  taken  by  a  fleet  sent  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  but  the  in- 
habitants of  the  valley  were  not  disturbed. 

By  the  census  of  1671  there  were  361  souls  at  Port  Royal,  with  over  1,000  head  of 
live-stock  and  364  acres  of  cultivated  land  In  1684  the  fishing-fleet  of  the  port  was 
captured  by  English  "  corsairs  "  ;  and  in  1686  there  were  622  souls  in  the  town.  In 
1(J90  the  fort  contained  18  cannon  and  86  soldiers,  and  was  taken  and  pillaged  by 
Sir  William  Phipps,  who  sailed  from  Boston  with  3  war-vessels  and  70iO  men.  A 
few  months  later  it  was  plundered  by  corsairs  from  the  \Vest  Indies,  and  in  1691 
the  Chevalier  de  Villebon  took  the  fort  in  the  name  of  France.  Baron  La  Ilontan 
wrote:  "  Port  Royal,  the  capital,  or  the  only  city  of  Acadia,  is  in  effect  no  more 
than  a  little  paltry  town  that  is  somewhat  enlarged  since  the  war  broke  out  in  1(389 
by  the  accession  of  the  inhabitants  that  lived  near  Boston,  the  metropolitan  of  New 
England.  It  subsists  upon  the  traffic  of  the  skins  which  the  savages  bring  thither 
to  truck  for  European  goods.-'  In  the  summer  of  1707  the  fortress  was  attacked  by 
2  regiments  and  a  small  fleet,  from  Boston,  and  siege  operations  were  conmienced. 
An  attempt  at  storming  the  works  by  night  was  frustrated  by  M.  de  Subercase'a 
vigilance  and  the  brisk  fire  of  the  French  artillery,  and  the  besiegers  were  finally 
forced  to  retire  with  severe  loss.  A  few  weeks  later  a  second  expedition  from  Massa- 
chusetts attacked  the  works,  but  after  a  siege  of  15  days  their  camps  were  stormed 
by  the  Baron  de  St.  Cai^tin  and  the  Chevalier  d(;  la  Boularderic,  and  the  feebly  led 
Americans  were  driven  on  board  their  ships.  Subercase  then  enlarged  the  fortress, 
made  arrangements  to  run  off  slaves  from  Boston,  and  planned  to  capture  Rhode 
Island,  "which  is  inhabited  by  rich  Quakers,  and  is  the  resort  of  rascals  and  even 
pirates." 

In  the  autumn  of  1710  the  fVigates  Dragon,  Chester^  Falmouth^  Leostaffe,  Fevers- 
ham^  Star,  and  Province,  with  20  transports,  left  Boston  and  sailed  to  Port  Royi^ 


i  i.  I  . 

Hi.; 


■m 


J 


88       Route  IS.        THE  ANNAPOLIS  VALLEY. 

There  were  2  ro>dnientn  from  MuKvirliufiettH,  2  from  the  n'Bt  of  Now  Knglantl,  and  1 
of  Ro.viil  Miiriin'H.  Afirr  thn  t'O'ctlon  «if  iiiortHr-hjittvrh'M,  Hi'vrral  (la>H  wcn>  njient 
in  boiiiltartiiiiK  thi<  fort  from  tho  t1«>(>r  ami  th«)  sh-^c-liiicK,  but  Ww  flrt>  fVuni  thr  ram- 
{NirtM  wii8  kt'pt  n}>  «t«'atiil.v  until  tliv  pirrisoii  w«'n'  on  tliv  vcr^'  of  HtJirvation  ;  HuIut- 
cHHo  tlu«n  Hurn'iidon'il  hJH  fon-i-K  (lifiH  im-n),  who  wvrv  Hhippctl  olf  to  Knitice,  and 
(l»>n.  NI<'holw)n  chanitcd  X\w  umw  of  I'ort  Houil  to  Annai'olis  Roval,  in  honor  of 
Qu«'<>n  Anni',  tlu'U  Hov^'n'i^^n  of  (Jreat  ltri(..ihi 

In  1711,  HO  Nt'W-Knnlan<h'rs  from  tl;i'  pirriHin  wvrv  «Mit  to  pioci's  at  Blood.v  Brook, 
12  M  up  thr  river,  and  tin*  firtn'SK  was  tiini  iii>  ^jcd  1»y  the  A<'adian>  an*l  Micniars 
F«>r  n»»arlv40  jvars  afterward.*"  Annapolis  waHallllo^t  ah.avH  in  a  stat»>  of  Kiege,  Iwing 
nu*na«'t>d  from  time  to  time  )>}'  tiie  disatfrifcd  Acadians  and  tlieir  sava^^e  allies.  In 
1744  the  non-eoml»atjint,M  were  sent  to  lloston  for  safety,  and  in  .lidy  of  that  year  tlu! 
fort  wju*  iM'leauuered  hy  a  lone  (  f  finati«-  Catiiolies  under  the  Ahhe  Ijiloutre.  J*ivc 
oompanieH  of  Massaeliusetts  troops  t^oon  joined  tl»e  jrarrison,  and  tiie  hesiejrers  were 
reinforeed  by  Kreneh  regulars  from  Lotdsl)our(;.  Tlie  sie^e  was  continued  for  nearly 
three  mnntiis,  hut  (tov  Masearene  siiowed  a  hold  front,  and  provisions  and  Mien 
oaniu  in  from  Hoston.  Tlie  town  was  destroyed  \i\  tlie  artilh-ry  of  the  fort  and  by 
Ineendiary  sorties,  sinee  it  served  toslielter  tlie  hostile  riflemen.  Soon  after  Dnvivier 
and  liftloutn;  lia<l  retin'd,  two  French  fiipites  entered  tlie  Ha.sin  and  captured  some 
uhlpa  of  Massaeliusetts,  hut  left  four  days  before  Tyufl's  Boston  sciuadron  arrived. 
A  year  later,  IV  Hjinie/jvy  nienaeed  the  fort  with  700  men,  but  was  ea.^ily  beaten  olT 
by* the  pirrison,  aided  by  the  fripites  Chrftrr,  50,  and  S/iirlrif,  2(t,  whi(  h  were  \\  ing 
in  the  Baain.  After  the  deportation  of  the  Aeadians,  AnnM]»olis  remained  in  peare 
until  1781,  when  two  Ameriean  war-vessels  ascended  the  Hasin  by  niglit,  surprised 
and  captured  the  fortress  and  spiked  its  giins,  and  |)lundered  every  house  in  the 
town,  after  locking  the  citizens  up  in  the  old  block-house. 

The  Annapolis  Volley. 

This  pretty  district  has  suffered,  like  the  St.  John  River,  from  the  absurdly  ex- 
travagant descriptions  of  its  local  a<huirers,  and  its  depreciation  by  Mr.  Warner  (see 
page  84)  expresses  the  natural  reaction  which  must  be  felt  by  travellers  (unless  they 
are  from  Newfoundland  or  Labrador)  after  con. paring  the  actual  valley  with  these 
high-Hown  paneg\  rios.  A  recent  Provincial  writer  says  :  ''  The  route  of  the  M'ind- 
8or  &  Annapolis  Railway  ''.^s  thrcMgh  anagnificent  farming-country  whose  beauty 
i»  so  great  that  we  exhaust  the  Kt.glish  language  of  its  adjectives,  ond  arc  comj'clled 
to  revert  to  the  <iu!;int  old  French  which  was  spoken  by  the  early  ^et tiers  of  this 
Garden  of  Caniulu,  in  our  efforts  to  describe  it.''  In  point  of  flict  the  Annapolis 
region  is  far  inferior  eitlnr  in  beauty  or  fertility  to  the  valleys  of  the  Nashua,  the 
Schuylkill,  the  Shenandoah,  and  scores  of  other  familiar  streams  which  have  been 
described  without  elTu.vion  oiid  without  impressing  the;  service  of  alien  languages. 
The  Editor  walked  through  a  considerable  portion  of  this  valley,  in  the  process  of  a 
cloeer  analysis  of  its  features,  ond  found  a  tnmquil  and  comnioiiplace  farming- 
district,  devoid  of  salient  points  of  interest,  and  occupied  by  an  insufficient  popula- 
tion, among  whose  hamlets  he  found  unvarying  and  honest  hospitjility  and  kind- 
ness. It  is  a  peaceful  rural  land,  hemmed  in  between  high  and  monotonous  ridges, 
blooming  during  its  brief  summer,  and  will  afford  a  series  of  pretty  view.<  and  pleas- 
ing suggestions  to  the  tniveller  whose  expectations  have  not  been  rai.'cd  beyond 
bounds  by  the  exaggerated  praises  of  well-meaning,  but  injudlciour  authors. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  apples  of  the  Annapolis  Valley  ar«>  the  best  in  America,  and 
500,000  barrels  are  exported  \  early,  —  many  of  which  are  sold  in  the  cities  of  Great 
Britain.  The  chief  productions  of  the  district  are  hay,  cheese,  and  live-stock,  a  large 
proportion  of  which  is  exported. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Annapolis  over  the  lowlands,  and  takes 
a  course  to  the  N.  E.,  near  the  old  highway.  Bridgetown  ( 6^ rant/  Central) 
is  the  first  important  station,  and  is  14  M.  from  Annapolis,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  river.  It  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  4  churches, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  is  situated  in  a  district  of  apple-orcliards 
and  rich  pastures.    Some  manufacturing  is  dium  on  the  water-power  of 


WILMOT  SPRINGS. 


Rnate  18. 


89 


I,  and  1 

'««  Kjicnt 
hi-  riuii- 
;  HutttT- 
ce,  and 
xmor  of 

I  11  rook , 

;»',  iM'iiiK 
ilt'M.     In 
)onr  tlu! 
■e.     Hvc 
crs  were 
)r  iM'iirly 
iiid  nuMi 
and  by 
PuvWUt 
n'd  Honie 
I  nrrlvod. 
«'iiton  off 
ere  1>  ing 
in  peace 
Knr))risfd 
^e  in  the 


(urdly  cx- 
urntT  (see 
iik'^s  they 
Nith  these 
;h(!  \Vind- 
se  hoauty 
•omj'cllod 
TV.  of  this 
\nnapolis 
shun, the 
lave  been 
lingua  gea. 
cess  of  a 
faruiing- 
t  popula- 
nd  kind- 
|ui;  ridges, 
nd  pleas- 
bey  ond 
s. 

rica ,  and 
of  Great 
k,  a  large 


id  takes 

|he  head 
f  lurches, 
)rchards 
jower  of 


the  Annaiiolis  River  and  ilM  branches;  and  the  surrounding  country  is 
well  populated,  and  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  hcilthiest  dJHtrietH  in  Nova 
Scoii.*^.  To  the  S.  is  HLoody  /iroah,  where  a  (h'tacliinent  of  Nrw-Kn^hmd 
troops  wtts  massacred  by  tlie  Kniich  and  Indians;  and  roads  k>ad  up  over 
the  Sout.i  Mt.  into  tiie  interior,  dotted  with  snuill  hainU-ts,  inhabited  by 
the  descendants  of  old  soldiers.  M;iny  lar^;e  lakes  and  streams  tilled  with 
trout,  and  pxxl  hnnting-f^rouiuls  are  in  this  rcf^ion. 

Panul'm'.  (small  inn)  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village  of  about  400  inhab- 
itants, with  several  saw  and  ^rist  mills  and  taiuu^ries.  The  princi^ial 
exports  are  luml)er  and  cheese,  though  there  are  al,>>o  large  deposits  of  mer- 
chantable granite  in  the  vicinity.  A  road  crosses  the  North  Ml.  to  Port 
Williams,  7  M.  distant,  a  tisliing-village  of  about  ;J00  iniiabilants,  situated 
on  the  Hay  of  I'undy.  The  coast  is  illuiiiinate<l  her»',  at  night,  by  two 
white  lights.     I-'arther  down  the  shonj  is  the  handet  of  St.  Croix  Cove. 

jMwrtncttoirn  is  a  prosperous  village  of  about  (JOO  inhabitants,  whence 
much  lumber  is  exported.  In  1754,  20,000  acres  in  this  vicinity  were 
granted  to  20  gentlemen,  who  named  their  new  domain  in  honor  of  Gov. 
Lawrence.  8  M.  distant,  on  the  summit  of  the  North  Mt  ,  is  the  hamlet 
of  Jlactlock,  beyond  which  is  the  farming  setthMiient  of  Mf.  Ilnnlcy,  near 
the  liay  of  I'undy.  Neio  A I  bun  y  (sumW  inn)  is  a  f(trest-\  illage  8-lC  M. 
S.  E  of  Lawreucetown ;  and  about  JO  M.  farther  into  the  great  central 
wilderness  is  the  tarniing  district  of  Hprin<jjitld,  beyond  the  South  Mt. 

Hiddleton  {American  House)  Ia  a  small  village  near  the  Suutli  Mt.  'J he 
Nova  iScotia  Central  Jiailway  runs  from  Middleton  to  Nictaux  Kails,  4  M. ; 
Cleveland,  a  locality  rich  in  immense  beds  of  iron  ore ;  American  Mills,  a 
lumber-district;  New  Albany;  Dalhousie;  Springfield;  New  Germany; 
Riverside;  Bridgewater;  Mahone  Bay;  and  Lunenburg  (see  page  118). 

Wilmot  Spa  Springs,  2  M.  from  Middleton  station  (conveyances  from  all 
trains),  is  a  favorite  provim  itil  summer  resort,  with  North  Mt.  on  one  side,  and  the 
blue  ridge  of  South  Mt.  ou  the  other.  The  Springs  rise  in  <iu  extensive  grove  of  tall 
pines,  and  are  delpful  in  cases  of  cancer,  dysk^epia,  kid'ey  dist^ase.  spinal  com- 
plaint, and  general  debility.  Hairs  Hotel  was  built  in  1888,  and  aceommodatefl  200 
guests,  at  V8-12  a  week  (reductions  for  long  sojourns),  with  hot  and  cold  and  shower 
baths  of  the  saline  waters.  Lily  Lake,  not  far  away,  alfords  good  ti-hing  and  boat- 
ing, and  is  surrounded  by  de«'p  woods.  There  are  pleasant  drives  to  North  Mt.,  with 
its  marine  views ;  and  to  the  quaint  little  sea-ports  on  the  Bay  of  Kundy. 

Wilmot  station  is  ^  M.  from  Farmmgton  (two  inns),  a  Presbyterian  vil- 
lage. Maryaretsoille  (Harris's  Hotel)  is  7  M.  distant,  across  the  North  Mt., 
on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Fruit  and  lumber  are  exported  hence  to  the  United 
States. 

Kingston  station  is  1^  M.  from  Kinyston.  2  M.  from  Melvern  Square, 
2J  M.  from  Tremonf,  and  4  M.  from  Prince  William  Street,  rural  hamlets 
in  the  valley.  From  Morden  Road  station  a  highway  runs  N.  W.  7  M. 
across  the  North  Mt.  to  the  little  port  of  Morden,  or  French  Cross  (Bal- 
comb's  Hotel),  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Station,  Aylesford  (Aylesford 
house),  a  »niull  liainlet  from  which  a  stage  runs  to  Bridgewater  every 


.'  V  i 


f 

«  ,  ;      i 

til.! 

i: 

1* ' 

90      Route  18. 


KENTVILLE. 


Thursday.    The  farming  towns  of  Jacksonville  and  Morristown  are  5-7  M. 
away,  on  the  top  of  the  South  Mt. 

Liake  George  ( HaWs  inn)  is  12  M.  distant,  whence  the  great  forest-bound  chain 
of  the  Ayle^ford  Lakes  may  be  vi^ited.  The  chief  of  these  is  Kempt  Lake, 
v/hich  is  about  7  M.  long.  A  road  runs  S.  from  the  Lake  Georgia  settlement  by  Lake 
Paul  and  Owl  Lake  to  Falkland  (32  M.  from  Aylesford),  which  is  on  the  great  Lake 
Sherbrooke,  in  Lunenburg  County,  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Gold  River. 

"  Tiie  great  Aylesford  sand-plain  folks  call  it,  in  a  giural  way,  the  Devirs  Goose 
Pasture.  It  is  13  M.  long  and  7  M.  wide;  it  ain't  just  drifting  sands,  but  it's  all 
but  that,  it 's  so  barren.  It 's  uneven,  or  wavy,  like  the  swell  of  the  sea  in  a  calm, 
and  is  covered  with  short,  thin,  dry,  coarse  gratis,  and  dotted  liere  and  there  with  a 
half-starved  birch  and  a  stunted  misshapen  spruce.    It  is  jei-t  about  as  silent  and 

lonesome  and  desolate  a  place  as  you  would  wish  to  see All  that  country 

thereabouts,  as  I  have  heard  tell  when  I  was  a  boy,  was  once  owned  by  the  Lord, 
the  king,  and  the  devil.  The  glebe-lands  belonged  to  the  first,  tlie  ungranted  wil- 
derness-lands to  the  second,  and  the  sand-plain  fell  to  the  share  of  the  last  (and 
Eeople  do  say  the  old  gentleman  was  rather  done  in  the  divij^ion,  but  that  is  neither 
ere  nor  there),  and  so  it  is  called  to  this  day  the  Devirs  Goose  Pasture.'''' 

Station,  Berivick  (two  inns),  a  prosperous  villa<5e  of  400  inhabtants, 
where  the  manufacture  of  shoes  is  carried  on.  A  road  leads  to  tlie  N.  W. 
7  M.  across  Pleasant  Valley  and  the  Black  Rock  Mt.  to  Harborville,  a  ship- 
building village  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whence  large  quantities  of  cordwood 
and  potatoes  are  shipped  to  the  United  States.  Several  miles  farther  up 
the  bay-shore  is  the  village  of  Canada  Creek,  near  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

At  Berwick  the  line  enters  the  *  Cornwallis  Valley,  which  is  shorter 
but  much  more  picturesque  than  that  of  Annapolis.  Following  the  course 
of  the  Cornwallis  River,  the  line  approaches  the  base  of  the  South  Mt., 
while  the  North  Mt.  trends  away  to  the  N.  E.  at  an  ever-increasing  angle. 
Beyond  the  rural  stations  of  Waterville,  Cambridge,  and  Coldbrook,  the 
train  reaches  Kentville  (Lyons  Hotel;  restaurant  in  the  station),  the 
headquarters  of  the  railway  and  the  capital  of  Kings  County.  This  town 
has  1,080  inhabitants,  5  churches,  and  2  weekly  newspapers;  and  there  are 
several  mills  and  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Raw  umber  and  manganese 
have  been  found  here.  The  Cornwallis- Valley  Railroad  runs  from  Kent- 
ville to  Canning  and  Kingsport,  whence  apples  are  shipped.  The  high- 
way leads  to  Cape  Blomidon,  ascending  North  Mountain,  with  noble  and 
fiiv-e.\teiuiing  views. 

Kentnlle  to  Chester. 

The  Royal  mail-stages  leave  Kentville  at  6  a.  m.  on  Monday  and  Thursday,  reach- 
ing Chester  in  the  atU»rnoon.  Tiie  return  trip  is  made  on  Tuesday  and  Friday.  The 
distance  between  Kentville  and  Chester  is  46  M.,  and  the  intervening  country  is 
wiKl  and  picturesque.  After  passing  the  South  Mt  by  the  MiJl-Brook  Valley,  at 
8-10  M.  from  Kentville,  the  road  I'uns  near  the  Gaspereaiix  Lakf,  a  beautiful 
forest-loch  about  5  M.  long,  with  many  islands  and  highly  diversified  shores.  This 
water  is  connected  by  short  straits  with  tli(>  inland-studded  Two-Mile  liUke  and  the 
Four-Mile  I^ake,  near  which  are  the  romantic  Aylesford  Lakes.  E.  and  S.  E.  of 
the  Gaspereaux  Lake  are  the  trackless  .-olitudes  of  the  far-spreading  Bl'te  Mtx., 
amid  whose  recesses  are  the  lakelets  where  the  Gold  River  takes  its  rise.  At  20  M. 
from  Kentville  the  stage  enters  the  Epis<'opal  villnge  of  New  Ross  (Turner's  Hotel), 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Dalhousie  lload  fron>  Halifax  to  Annapolis.  Froni  this  point 
the  stage  descends  the  valley  of  the  Gold  River  to  Chester  (see  page  127). 


"^1 


WINDSOR. 


ItouU  18.       91 


.1 


The  Halifax  train  runs  E.  from  Kentville  down  the  Coniwallis  Valley  to 
Port  Williams,  which  is  1^  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name,  whence  daily 
stages  run  to  Canning.  The  next  station  is  Wolfville,  from  which  the  Land 
of  Evangeline  may  most  easily  be  visited  (see  Route  22).  The  buildings 
of  Acadia  College  are  peen  on  the  hill  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Wolfville  with  the  wide  expanse  of  the 
reclaimed  meadows  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  Cape  Blomidim,  looming 
leagues  away.  In  a  few  minutes  the  train  reaches  Grand  Pr6,  and  as  it 
slows  up  before  stopping,  the  tree  is  seen  (on  the  1.  about  300  ft.  from  the 
track)  which  marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acadian  chapel.  Beyond  Hm'- 
ton  Landing  (see  page  111)  the  Gaspereaux  is  crossed,  and  the  line  swings 
around  toward  the  S.  E.  At  Avonport  tiie  line  reachos  the  broad  Avon 
River,  and  runs  along  its  1.  bank  to  Ilantsport  (two  inns).  This  is  a 
large  manufacturing  and  shipbuilding  village,  where  numerous  vessels 
are  owned.  In  the  vicinity  are  quarries  of  freestone.  Steamboats  ply  be- 
tween Hantsport,  Kingsport,  and  Parrsboro'.  J  fount  Benson  station  is 
near  the  hill  whose  off-look  Judge  Haliburton  so  highly  extols :  — 

"  I  have  seen  at  diflferent  periods  of  my  life  a  good  deal  of  Europe  and  much  of 
America;  but  I  have  seldom  seen  anything  to  be  compared  with  the  view  of  the 
Basin  of  Minas  and  its  adjacent  landscape, as  it  presents  itself  to  you  on  your  a.scent 

of  Mount  Denson He  who  travels  on  this  continent,  and  does  not  spend  a  few 

days  on  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  and  extraordinary  basin,  may  be  said  to  have 
missed  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  on  this  side  of  the  water." 

The  next  station  is  Falmouth,  in  a  reg'on  which  abounds  in  gypsum. 
Back  toward  Central  Falmouth  there  are  prolific  orchards  of  apples.  The 
line  now  crosses  the  Avon  River  on  the  most  costly  bridge  in  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  over  the  singular  tides  of  this  sj'stera  of  waters. 

The  traveller  who  passes  from  Annapolis  to  Windsor  at  the  hours  of  low-tide  will 
sympathize  with  the  author  of  "  Baddeck,"  who  says  that  the  Avon  ''  would  have 
been  a  charming  river  if  there  had  been  a  drop  of  watt^r  in  it.  I  nevt-r  knew  before 
how  much  water  adds  to  a  river.  Its  slimy  bottom  was  quite  a  ghastly  spectacle, 
an  ugly  rent  in  the  land  that  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide. 
I  should  think  it  would't»e  confusing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  first  one  way  and 
then  the  other  and  then  vanishes  altogether." 

The  remarkable  tides  of  this  river  are  also  described  by  Mr.  Noble,  as  follows : 
The  tide  was  out,  "  leaving  miles  of  black  "  (red)  "  rivor-bottom  entirely  b.ire,  with 
only  a  small  stream  cour.-ing  through  in  a  serpentine  manner  A  line  of  blue  water 
was  visible  on  the  northern  horizon.  After  an  absence  of  an  hour  or  so,  I  loitered 
back,  when,  to  my  surprise,  there  was  a  river  like  the  Hudson  at  Catskill,  running 
up  with  a  powerful  current.  The  high  wharf,  upon  which  but  a  short  time  before 
I  had  stood  and  surveyed  the  black,  unsightly  fields  of  mud,  was  now  up  to  its  mid- 
dle In  the  turbid  and  whirling  stream." 

Windsor  [Dufferin  Hotel;  Victoria)  is  a  wealthy  and  cultured  town  of 
3,000  inhabitants,  on  the  promontory  between  the  Avon  and  St.  Croix 
Rivers.  It  owns  a  great  amount  of  shipping,  and  has  iron,  cotton,  and 
leather  works  and  shipyards,  and  gold  mines  near  by.  The  business  streets 
are  dingy  and  dusty,  but  the  hills  command  niteresting  and  extensive 
views.    Vast  quantities  uf  white  and  blue  plaster  are  shipped  to  tbe  United 


92        Route  18. 


WINDSOR. 


States  for  fertilizing  the  soil  and  calcining  purjwses.  Near  the  end  of  the 
railway  bridge,  on  a  projecting  hill,  '  ino  Clifton  mansion,  formerly  the 
home  of  the  genial  and  witty  Thomas  C.  Haliburto'  (born  at  Windsor  in 
1797,  13  years  a  Judge  in  Nova  Scotia,  G  years  an  M.  P.  at  London,  and 
died  in  1805),  the   author  of  "Sam  Slick,  The  Clockmaker,"  etc. 

On  the  knoll  over  the  village  are  the  cumbliiig  block-houses  and  earth- 
works of  Fort  Edward^  whence  is  obtamcd  a  pretty  view  down  the  widen- 
ing Avon  and  out  over  the  distant  Basin  of  Minas.  About  1  M.  from 
the  station,  on  a  hill  w^hich  overlooks  the  fine  vallev  of  the  Avon  and  its 
uncleared  mountain-rim,  are  the  plain  buildings  of  King's  College,  the 
oldest  college  now  existing  in  Canada. 

It  was  founded  in  1788.  and  chartered  by  Kinf?  George  TTI.  in  1802.  It  is  under 
the  patronafce  of  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  and  is  well  endowed  with  scholar- 
Bhipp,  honors,  etc.  Its  offloers  i  "st  belong  to  the  Church  of  England,  thouj^h 
there  are  no  tests  for  admission  '"  students.  Many  of  the  most  inflnential  and 
distinguished  British-Americans  ha.  been  educated  here,  and  "  Kinpsmen  "  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  Canada.  The  college  has  fi  professors  and  about  40  studentH. 
There  is  also  a  dlTinity  school  in  connection  with  the  college. 

The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  is  occupied  by  3(3  Christian  sects.  Of  its  inhabitants. 
56,124  belong  to  the  Anglican  Church,  and  are  n,iiii.«tered  to  by  a  lord  bit^hop,  4 
canons,  8  rural  deans,  and  68  clergymen.  There  are  1O2,(j01  Catholics,  103,.')89  Pres- 
byterians, 73,430  Baptists,  41,751  Methodists,  and  4,958  Lutherans  (census  of  1871). 

The  site  of  Windsor  wa«  called  by  the  Indians  Pisiqitid,  "  the  Junction  of  the 
Waters,"  and  the  adjacent  lowlands  were  settled  at  an  early  day  bj  the  French,  who 
rai.«ed  large  quantities  of  wheat  and  exported  it  to  I5oston.  The  French  .settled  in 
this  vicinity  about  the  middle  of  the  17tli  century,  but  retired  far  into  the  interior 
at  the  time  of  the  British  conquest.  Gov.  Lawrence  issued  a  proclamation  inviting 
settlers  to  come  in  from  New  England,  stating  that  "  100,000  acres  of  land  had  been 
cultivated  and  had  borne  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  hemp,  fiax.  etc.,  for  the  last  cen- 
tury without  failure."  The  deserted  French  haniiets  were  occupied  in  1759-60  by 
families  from  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  and  their  descendants  still  possess 
the  land.  The  Rhode-Islanders  erected  the  township  of  Newport,  Massachusetts 
formed  Falmouth,  and  Windsor  was  granted  to  British  officers  and  was  fortified  in 
1759.  The  broad  rich  marshes  near  Windsor  had  attracted  a  large  Acadian  popula- 
tion, and  here  was  their  principal  church,  whose  site  is  still  venerated  by  the  Mic- 
mac  Indians. 

*'  1  cannot  recall  a  prettier  village  than  this.  If  you  doubt  my  word,  come  and 
see  it.  Yonder  we  discern  a  portion  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  ;  around  us  are  the  rich 
meadows  of  Nova  Scotia.  Intellect  has  here  placed  a  crowning  college  upon  a  bill; 
opulence  has  surrounded  it  with  picturesque  villas."  (CozziNS.)  Another  writer 
iiBs  spoken  with  enthusiasm  of  WindsorV  "  wide  and  beautiful  environing  mead- 
ows and  the  hanging-gardens  of  mountain-forests  on  the  S  and  W." 

The  Htiiifax  train  sweeps  along  the  St.  Croix  River  around  Windsor, 
pass  ng  (on  the  r.)  the  dark  buildings  of  King's  College,  on  a  hilltop,  with 
the  new  chapel  in  front  of  their  line.  The  character  of  the  landscape  be- 
gins to  change,  and  to  present  a  striking  contrast  with  the  agricultural 
regions  just  traversed. 

**  Indeed,  If  a  man  can  live  on  rocks,  like  a  goat,  he  may  settle  anywhere  between 
Windsor  and  Halitax.  With  the  exception  of  a  wild  pond  or  two,  we  saw  nothing 
but  rocks  and  stunted  firs  for  forty -five  miles,  a  monotony  unrelieved  by  one  pic- 
turesque feature.  Then  we  longed  for  the  '  Garden  of  Nuva  Bcotia,'  and  understood 
what  is  meant  by  the  name."  (^VAaNER'S  Baddeck.) 

Beyond  Three-Mile  Plains  the  train  reaches  Ntwpoi'ty  near  which  large 


•^ 


3  ^ 


\ 


\.j\ 

%.  i\ 

a.  ^ 

4.  C 

5.  L 

6.  a 

6 

7.  M 

8.  J\ 

10.  J^ 

11.  » 

■ 

nd  of  the 
merly  the 
indsor  in 
idon,  and 
etc. 

ind  earth- 
he  widen- 
M.  from 
f>n  and  its 
illege,  the 


It  i«  under 
ith  pcholar- 
ind, though 
nential  and 
rsmen  "  are 
to  students. 

^habitants, 
rd  bit^hop,  4 
03,589  Pres- 
;U8  of  1871). 

ction  of  the 

French,  who 

rh  settled  in 

I  the  inbrior 

ion  inviting 

nd  had  been 

the  last  cen- 

1759-60  by 

still  possess 

as^achusetta 

fortified  in 

ian  popula- 

b>  the  Mic- 

coine  and 

,  are  the  rich 

[upon  a  hill ; 

)ther  writer 

)ning  mead- 


Windsor, 

jUtop,  with 

jdpcttpe  be- 

'ricultural 


lere  between 
iw  nothing 
by  one  pic- 
understood 


Ibich  large 


1.  AWSt^ 
t.  Aw  i 

4.  CtuH 

6.  DmUn, 

«•  caf\ 

7.  BlUti 

f .  /<wm| 

10.  PtM 

11.  Wd^ 


28.  Offittrt'  Quaritrt, 

84.  Military  Nosfital, 
25.  Quten't  Dock  Yard, 
86.  Admiralty  Haust, 

27.  Y.  M,  C.  A., 

28.  Huli/ax  Club, 

29.  Halifax  Nottl, 

80.  Jntimational  Htiti, 

31.  Carlton  Hottl, 

32.  Waptrlty  Hata, 

85.  Railway  Stctitm, 


*  t 


•  9 


•  • 


C.  8. 
C.  t. 

£.  8. 
£.  1. 
C.  8. 
M.C.  8. 
£.  3. 

B.  3. 

C.  3. 
B.  8. 
B.  2. 


*     I 


6 


HALIFAX. 


RauU  19.       93 


quantities  of  gypsum  are  quarried  from  the  veins  in  the  soft  marly  sand- 
stone. Nearly  8,000  tons  of  th's  fine  fibrous  mineral  are  shipped  yearly 
from  Newport  to  the  United  States.  To  the  N.  are  the  villages  of 
Brooklyn  (5  M.),  '«voted  to  manufacturing;  Scotch  Village  (9  M.)i  a 
farming  settlement;  mv\  Burlington,  on  the  Keujietcook  River  (10  M.). 
Chivirie  and  Walton,  20-22  M.  N.,  on  the  Basin  of  Minas.  are  accessible 
from  Newport  by  a  tri-vveekly  conveyance.  The  train  pa-  ses  on  to  EUers- 
house  (small  inn),  a  hamlet  clustered  around  a  furniture-factory  and 
lumber-mills.  2i  M.  distant  is  the  settlement  at  the  foot  of  the  Ardmse 
J/<.,  which  is  the  highe?t  point  of  land  in  the  Province,  and  overlooks 
Falmouth,  Windsor,  and  the  Basin  of  Minas.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Five-Island  Lake,  skir^s  Uniacke  Lake,  with  Mt.  L^niacke  on  the  N.,  and 
stops  at  the  Mt.  Uniacke  station  (small  inn).  The  Mt.  Uniacke  estate  and 
mansion  were  founded  more  than  50  years  ago  by  Richard  John  Uniacke, 
then  Attorney-General  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  house  occupies  a  picturesque 
position  between  two  rock-bound  lakes,  and  the  domain  has  a  hard- 
working tenantry.  The  Aft.  Uniacke  Gnld-Mines  are  3  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion,  and  were  opened  in  1865.  In  1869  the  mines  yielded  $37,340,  or 
$345  to  each  workman,  being  6  ounces  and  4  pennyweights  from  each 
ton  of  ore.  For  the  next  10  M.  the  line  traverses  an  irredeemable  w.l- 
derness,  and  then  reaches  Beaver  Brink,  whence  lumber  and  slate  are 
exported.  At  Windsor  Junction  the  train  runs  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  (see  page  82),  wh  ch  it  follows  to  Halifax. 


H  8 


H  8J 


n\ 


19.    Halifax. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea. — Cap«  Sanibro  is  usually  soon  first  by  the  pa.<i8enger 

on  the  transatlantic  steamers,  and  ILiiitax  Harbor  is  soon  entered  between  the  light* 
houses  on  Ohebucto  Head  and  Devil  Island.  Tiiese  ii;?!its  are  7?a  M.  apart,  Chebucto 
(on  tile  1.)  having  a  revolving  ligiit  vi-ible  for  18  M.,  and  Devil  Island  a  fixed  red 
lijilit  on  a  brown  tower.  On  the  \V.  sliore  the  fishing-hamlets  of  Portuguese  Cove, 
Bear  Cove,  and  Herring  Cove  are  pused  in  succession.  4  M.  S.  E.  of  Herring  Covo 
is  tiie  dangerous  Thrumcap  Shoal,  where  H  B.  M  frigite  La  Tribune,  44,  wa.-* 
wrecked  in  1797,  and  nearly  all  her  people  were  lo>it,  partly  by  reason  of  an  abflurd 
stn'tch  of  naval  punctilio.  Between  this  siioal  and  McNab's  Island  on  one  side  and 
tile  mainland  on  the  other,  is  the  long  and  narrow  stniit  called  the  Kastern  Passage. 
In  1S62  the  Confederate  crui-ser  Tallahassee  was  blockmlcil  in  Halifax  Harbor  hy  a 
S'lualroii  of  United-S'^ates  frigates.  The  shallow  an<l  tortncuis  Kastern  Passage  wa« 
not  watclu'd,  since  nothing  but  email  fishing-craft  had  ever  traverse<l  it,  and  it  was 
considered  iinptissabie  for  a  steamer  bke  the  Talahassre.  But  ('apt.  U'ood  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  high  tide,  on  a  dark  niglit,  and  crept  cautiously  out  bc?hind  McNab's 
Island.     By  daylight  ho  was  far  out  of  sight  of  the  outwitted  blockading  tteet. 

2  M.  from  Herring  Cove  the  steamer  pas.ses  ^Salishury  Head,  and  runs  betwwn  the 
Miirtello  Tower  and  lighthouse  on  Mauglicr  Beach  (r.  side)  and  the  York  Redoubt 
(I'l  M.  apart)  Near  the  Redoubt  is  a  Catholic  church,  and  a  little  above  is  the 
himilet  ot  Falkland,  with  its  Episcopal  church,  beyond  which  the  N  VV.  Arm  opens 
on  tlie  1.  Pa'<sing  between  tne  battt^ies  on  McNab's  Island  and  Fort  Ogilvie,  on 
Point  Pleasant,  the  steamsiiip  soon  runs  by  Kort  Clarence  and  the  fortress  cm  George 
Island,  and  reaches  her  wharf  at  II  illfax,  with  the  town  of  Dartmouth  and  the  great 
Insane  Asylum  on  the  oi)posite  shore. 

ArrivHl  by  Hailway.  —  Tiie  railway  has  beiui  prolonjzed,  bv  a  system  of 
costly  works,  to  a  terminun  within  the  city,  where  a  large  and  handsome  ter- 
minal station  has  been  erected,  with  all  Diodem  convenieDces.  It  i8  not  tbx  fron 
the  Queen's  Dock  Yard. 


94      Boute  19. 


HALIFAX. 


Hotels.  —  Halifax  Hotel  (rienMeiii's),  107  Hollis  St ,  $2-4  a  day  ;  Queen  Hotel 
(A.  B.  Sheraton)  ;  Lome  House,  83,  85,  and  S7  Morri"  St.,  a  capital  family  hotel ; 
Warerly  HouHe  (the  Misses  Romans),  Pleisant  St.,  ^2.L^  a  day  ;  Carlton  Houoe,  51 
Argyle  St. ;  Royal,  121  Argyle  St. ;  Albion,  Siickvillo  St. ;  St.  Julian  (European 
plan),  Hollis  St. 

KtiMtauraiits.  —  Ices,  pastry,  and  confectionery  may  be  obtained  at  Mitchell's, 
26  (jJi;or)<e  .-t.     American  bri'eraf/cs  are  compounded  at  the  Halifax-House  bar. 

Kea<liiiK-K<>oinH.  —  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  corner  of  Gran- 
ville and  i'riiHo  Sts. ;  the  Provincial  Library, in  the  Province  (or  Parliament)  Hnild. 
ing  (open  lO  to  4);  and  in  the  chief  hotels.  The  Ilaiifux.  Library  is  at  197  Hdlis 
>t.  ;  and  the  Citizens'  Kiee  Library  (founded  by  Chief  Justice  Sir  William  Young) 
i.'<  at  Argyh^  II;il!.  Anrvlo  l:^f  .and  is  open  from  3  to  (5  p  M.  Tlie  Merchants'  Kx- 
chanjre  and  Reading-Room  is  on  Bedford  Row.  The  Chureh-of- England  Institute 
(LiHrarv  and  G.ymnasiuui)  i:i  at  50  Barrington  St. 

Clubs. — The  llaiiiax  v/lub  has  an  tifgaiit  liouse  at  155  Ilnl'.is  St.;  the  City 
Club,  Barrington  St. ;  the  Catholic  Young  Men's  Club,  Starr  St.  ((pen  from  2  to  lo 
P.M.);  the  llighlaud,  North  British,  St.  George's,  Charitable  lri."-h,  and  Germnnia 
Societies.    The  Royal  Nova-Scotia  Yaiht  Club  has  a  station  at  the  foot  of  Hollis  St. 

Ainuseiiieiits.  —  There  is  a  neat,  comfortable,  and  fairly  appointed  theatre, 
ctilled  the  A«ademy  (tf  Music  ;  and  Orpheus  Hall.  In  winter,  tobogganing  on  Cita- 
del Hill  and  Collins'  Field,  b.>  the  Red-Cap  and  Royal  Blue  Clubs,  etc.;  skating  at 
the  llink,  on  Tower  St..  and  on  the  N  W.  Arm  and  the  ponds;  curling,  by  the 
Curling  Club,  at  their  llink  ;  and  sicigh-riditig  at  Point  Pleasant,  etc.  In  summer, 
good  games  of  cricket  and  indifferent  ba.se-ball  playing  may  be  seen  on  the  Garrison 
Cricket-Ground.  But  Halifax  is  chiefly  famous  for  the  interest  it  takes  in  trials  of 
skill  between  yachtsmen  and  oarsmen,  and  exciting  aquatic  contests  occur  fre- 
quently durit)g  the  summer.  Boats  for  hire  at  North  Slip  and  Ferry  Slip,  and 
Luke's,  Freshwater.  The  Wanderers'  Boat-Club  have  their  boathouse  and  pier  at 
the  foot  of  Morris  St.  The  station  of  the  Koyal  Nova-Scotia  Yacht  Squadron  is  at  the 
Royal  Engineer  Yard,  foot  of  Hollis  St.     There  is  capital  fishing  in  the  N.  W.  Arm. 

Horse-Cars  run  every  74  minutes  from  Kichmond,  by  CanipltcU  Road,  Lock- 
man,  Barrington,  Pleasant,  and  Inglis  Sts,  at  the  entrance  to  Point-Pleasant  Park, 
Tower  Road,  Victoria  Road,  S.  Park  St.,  and  Spring-Garden  lioad  to  Barrington 
St.,  opposite  the  Academy  of  Music.  Also  fiom  Bell's  Lane  on  Barrington  St.  and 
Spring-Garden  Road  to  South-Park  and  Inglis  Sts.     Fare,  5c. 

Carriages.  —  For  each  person,  for  k  M.,  15c  ;  1  M.,  25 o.  ;  2  M.,  40c. ;  3  M., 
50c.  If  returning  in  same  carriage,  half  the  above  rates.  For  1-horse  carriage, 
per  hour,  75c.  ;  2-horse  carriage,  per  hour,  S>1 

Distances  by  sea.  —  Halifax  to  Portland.  310  M.  (26  hrs.)  ;  Boston,  378  M.  (35 
hrs.);  New  York,  542  M  (50  hrs.);  Baltimore,  S«0  M.  (76  hrs.);  St.  John's,  N.  V, 
500  M.  (48  hrs.).  By  rail  to  St.  John.  277  M. ;  to  Quebec,  678;  Montreal,  850; 
Charlottetown,  97  :  I'ortland.  618 ;  Boston,  726;  New  York,  939.  JJistaiices  from 
the  Post-OfRce  to  Dockyard,  1  M.  ;  Wellington  Barracks,  1^  ;  Richmond,  2;  Poors' 
Asylum,  1;  Fort  Opilvie,  1.^  :  Point  Plea.«ant,  2  :  N.  W.  Arm  Bridge,  2^. 

iljiilways.  —  Intercolonial  (Routes  16  and  17);  Windsor  &  Annapolis. 

Steamships.  -  The  Allan  Line,  fortnightly  f  r  St.  John's.  N.  F.,  Queenstown 
and  Liverpool,  Norfolk  ami  Baltimore.  Fares  :  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  iff  76  and  .i*  'A'): 
to  Norfolk  or  Baltimore,  $20  and  $12.  The  Furness-Line  steamships  run  between 
Halifax  aud  l.ondou,  Eng.  ;  the  llansa  Line,  to  Hamburg  and  Antwerp;  the  Allan 
Line,  to  Glasgow  (also);  the  Red-Cross  Line,  for  New  York  ($16  or  $9),  or  St. 
John's,  N.  F.  (iftlS  or  $9). 

A  steamer  runs  from  Halifax  every  Tuesday  to  Sheet  Harbor,  Canso,  Arichat, 
Port  Mulgrave,  Port  Hawkesbury,  Georgetown,  and  Souris.  Steamboats  leave  for 
Lunenburg,  Mondays  and  Thursdays;  for  Prospect,  Chester,  and  Mahone  Bay, 
Wednesdays  and  Fridays;  for  Bridgewater.  every  Mondav  and  Thursday;  for  St. 
Peters  (Cape  Breton),  West  Bay,  Baddeck,  Sydney,  and  for  Channel,  Codroy,  and 
Bonne  Biy  (Newfoundland),  fortnightly.  The  Halifax  leaves  for  Boston  every 
Wednesday  at  10  a.  m.  The  Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island  steamships 
leavn  every  week  for  Boston. 

>4t.aR:es  leave  Halifax  daily  for  Chester,  Lunenburg.  Liverpool,  Shelburne.  and 
Yarmouth  (see  Rmitc  24 1,  dep  rting  at  0  \.  M.  Stajies  leave  at  6  a.  m.,  on  Mondny, 
Wednesday,  and  Fridav,  for  Musqnodoboit  Harbor,  .lerldore.  Ship  Harbor,  Tangier, 
Sheet  Harbor,  Beaver  Harbor,  and  Salmon  River  (see  Route  29). 


m  ■ 


HALIFAX. 


Rimte  19.      95 


Halifax,  the  capital  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  cliief  naval  station  of 
the  British  Empire  in  the  Western  Hemisphere,  has  38,1  00  inliabitants, 
\vitii7  banks,  5  daily  pajiers  and  4  weeklies,  and  ;J8ilnirclies.  It  (icci;j)ies  a 
pictiircs(iue  posiiidn  on  the  K.  slope  of  the  peninsnl.-i  (of  3,Q00  acres),  be- 
tween the  bay,  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  the  Bedford  Basin;  anl  looks  out 
upon  a  noble  harbor,  deep,  completely  sheltered,  easily  accessible,  and 
hirf^e  enough  "to  contain  all  the  navies  of  Europe."  In  1869  the  imports 
amounted  to  $*  7,202,504,  and  the  exports  to  $8,109,548;  and  in  1870  the 
assessed  valuation  of  the  city  was  $  16,753, n2.  The  city  has  a  copious 
supply  of  water,  which  is  drawn  from  the  Chain  Lakes,  about  12  M.  dis- 
tant, and  so  high  above  Halifax  that  it  can  force  j"cts  over  the  highest 
houses  by  its  own  pressure.  There  is  a  fire-alarm  telegraph,  and  an  effi- 
cient fire  department,  with  several  steam-engines. 

The  city  lies  along  the  shore  of  the  harbor  for  2^  M.,  and  is  about  |  M. 
wide.  Its  plan  is  regular,  and  some  of  the  business  streets  are  well  built; 
but  the  general  character  of  the  houses  is  that  of  poor  construction  and 
dingy  colors.  It  has,  however,  been  much  bettered  of  late  years,  owing  to 
the  improvements  after  two  great  fires,  and  to  the  wealth  which  flowed  in 
during  the  American  civil  war,  and  hai'dly  deserves  the  severe  criticism 
of  a  recent  traveller:  "  Probably  there  is  not  anywhere  a  more  rusty,  for- 
lorn town,  and  this  in  spite  of  its  magnificent  situation." 

HoUis  and  Granville  Streets,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Parliament  Buildings, 
contain  the  most  attractive  shops  and  the  headquarters  of  the  great  import- 
ing houses.  Many  of  the  buildings  in  this  section  are  of  solid  and  elegant 
construction,  though  the  prevalence  of  dark  colors  gives  a  sombre  hue  to 
the  street  lines. 

The  Parliament  Building  occupies  the  square  between  Hollis,  George, 
Granville,  and  Prince  Streets,  and  is  surrounded  with  trees.  In  1830  this 
plain  structure  of  gray  stone  was  called  the  finest  building  in  North 
America,  but  American  architecture  has  advanced  very  far  since  thai 
time.  Opposite  the  Granville-St.  entrance  is  the  Library,  occupying  a 
very  cosey  little  hall,  and  supplied  with  British  and  Canadian  Avorks  on 
law,  history,  and  science.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  building  is  the  plain  and 
commodious  hall  of  the  House  of  Assemblv;  and  on  the  S.  is  the  chamber 
of  the  Legislative  Council,  in  which  are  some  fine  portraits.  On  the  r.  and 
I.  of  the  vice-regal  throne  are  full-length  *  portraits  of  King  George  III. 
and  Queen  Charlotte;  on  the  N.  wall  are  Chief  Justice  Blowers,  King 
William  IV.,  Judge  Haliburtnn  (see  page  92),  *  Sir  Thomas  Strange  (by 
Bivjamin  West),  and  Sir  Brenton  Haliburton.  Opposite  the  throne  are 
Nova  Scotia's  military  heroes,  Sir  John  Inglis  (the  defender  of  Lucknow) 
and  Sir  VV.  Fenwick  Williams  of  Kars.  On  the  S.  wall  are  full-length  por- 
traits of  King  George  II.  and  Queen  CaroFnc. 

Tlie  Dominion  Building,  nearly  opposite  tlie  Province  (or  Parliament) 
Buildmg,  on  Hollis  St.,  covers  an  area  of  140  by  70  ft.    It  is  of  freestone,  in 


y-m 


t 


96       Itoute  19. 


HALIFAX. 


an  ornate  style  of  architecture,  and  cost  $  120,000.  The  lower  storj'  is 
occupied  by  the  Post-Office;  and  the  third  floor  contains  the  *  Provincial 
Museum,  which  exhibits  preserved  birds,  iinimuls,  reptiles,  fossils,  min- 
erals, shells,  coins,  and  specimens  of  the  stones,  minerals,  coals,  and  gold 
ores  of  Nova  Scotia.  There  are  also  numerous  Indian  relics,  curiosities 
from  Japan  and  Ciiina,  naval  models,  and  old  portraits.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance is  a  gilt  pyramid,  which  represents  the  amount  of  gold  produced 
in  the  Province  between  18G2  and  1870,-5  tons,  8  cwt.,  valued  sif 
$3,373,431.  Most  of  this  gold  has  been  coined  at  the  U.  S.  Mint  in  Phili;- 
delphia,  and  is  purer  and  finer  than  that  of  California  and  Montana. 

On  the  corner  of  Granville  and  Prince  vStreots,  near  the  Parliament 
Building,  is  the  new  and  stately  stone  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Clnis- 
tian  Association,  with  its  reading-rooms  and  other  departments.  The 
massive  brownstone  house  of  the  Halifax  Club  is  to  the  S.,  on  Hollis  St. 

The  *  Citadel  covers  the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  whose  slopes  the  city  is 
built,  and  is  250  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Citadel  is  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  according 
to  the  standards  of  the  old  school;  though  of  late  years  the  government 
has  bestowed  much  attention  on  the  works  at  ^Jeorge's  Island,  which  are 
more  important  in  a  naval  point  of  view. 

The  works  wci-c  conniieuced  by  Prince  Edward,  t\w.  Duke  of  Kent,  and  the  father 
of  Queen  "Victoria,  who  was  then  Coumiander  of  tue  Forces  on  tliis  titation.  lie  cin- 
plojed  in  the  service  a  larfrc  nuii.ber  of  the  Maroons,  who  had  been  coiiqutrcd  by 
the  British,  and  were  banished  from  .Ian  aJea,  and  subsequently  deported  to  Sierra 
Leone.  Clianges  and  additions  have  been  made  nearly  every  year  since,  until  the 
present  immcut;e  strougliold  has  been  completed.  It  is  separated  from  the  gla(  it;  by 
a  deep  moat,  over  whieli  are  the  guns  on  the  numerous  bastions.  Ihe  massive  nia- 
fonry  of  the  walls  seems  to  dify  assault,  and  the  extens-ivc  barracks  within  arc  suid 
to  be  bomb  proof.  During  the  years  1873-74  the  artillery  has  been  changed,  and 
the  previous  mixed  armament  has  been  to  a  great  degree  replaced  by  muzzle-load- 
ing Woolwich  guns  of  heavy  calibre,  adapted  for  firing  the  conical  Palliser  shot  with 
points  of  chilled  iron.  The  vi.^itor  is  allowed  to  walk  around  the  circuit  of  the  ram- 
parts, and  this  elevated  station  affordb  a  broad  view  on  either  side.  Perhaps  the 
beet  prospect  is  that  from  the  S  E.  bastion,  overlooking  the  crowded  city  on  the 
elopes  below;  the  narrow  harbor  with  its  shipjjiug;  Dartnouth,  sweeping  up  to- 
ward Bedford  Basin;  Fort  Clarence,  below  Dartn.outli,  with  its  dark  caseniatr.«; 
McNab's  Island,  crowned  with  batteries  and  f-hutting  in  the  FKi*tern  Passage ;  the 
outer  harbor,  with  its  fortified  points,  and  the  ocean  beyond. 

Near  the  jiortal  of  the  citadel  is  au  outer  battery  of  antiquated  guns;  and  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  glacis  are  the  extensive  barraeks  of  the  Royal  Artillery.  Other  mili- 
tary quarters  are  seen  on  the  oppos-ite  side  of  the  Citadel. 

"But  if  you  cast  your  eyes  over  yonder  magnificent  bay,  where  vcsf  els  bearinji 
flags  of  all  nations  arc  at  anchor,  and  then  let  your  virion  sweep  past  and  over  the 
islands  to  the  outlets  beyond,  where  the  quiet  ocean  lies,  bordered  with  fog-bankc 
that  loom  ominously  at  the  boundary-lire  cf  the  horizon,  you  will  see  a  picture  of 
marvellous  beauty;  for  the  coast  scenery  here  transcends  our  own  sea-shores,  botli 
in  color  and  outline.  And  behind  us  again  stretch  largo  green  plains,  dotted  villi 
cottages,  and  bounded  with  undulating  hills,  with  now  and  then  glimpses  ot  biuc 


HALIFAX. 


Route  19.       97 


rn  Passage ;  tlie 


water;  and  a«  we  walk  down  Citadel  IIlll,  we  feel  half  reconciled  to  Halifax,  its 
quaint  mouldy  old  gables,  its  soldiers  and  sailors,  its  fogs,  cnl)s,  itoniiy  and  half- 
pennv  tokens,  and  all  its  little,  odd,  outlandish  pvculiaridos  "'     (I'ozz.:ns.) 

Lower  Water  St.  borders  the  luirhor-lVoiit,  an<l  f^ives  jiccess  to  the 
wlijirves  of  the  viirious  steainshi))  tiiul  piieket  linos.  It  runs  tVoni  the 
Or-lnance  Yard,  at  tlie  foot  of  Huckin^'hani  St.,  to  the  Governnient  reser- 
vation near  George  Ishmd,  and  presents  a  remarkably  dingy  and  dilapi- 
dated appearance  throughout  its  entire  length. 

The  ftueen's  Dockyard  occupies  ^  M.  of  the  shore  of  the  upper  harbor, 
and  is  surrounded  on  the  landward  side  by  a  high  stone-wall.  It  contains 
the  usual  paraphernalia  of  a  first-class  navy-yard,  — storehouses,  machine- 
shops,  docks,  arsenals,  a  hospital,  and  a  line  of  officers'  (piarters.  It  is 
much  used  by  the  frigates  of  the  British  navy,  botli  to  repair  and  to  refit, 
ajid  the  visitor  may  generally  see  here  two  or  three  vessels  of  Her  Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The  Dockyard  was  founded  in  1758,  and  received  great  additions  (including  the 
present  wall)  in  1770.  During  the  two  great  wars  with  the  United  States  it  was 
invaluable  as  a  station  for  the  royal  navy,  whose  fleets  thence  descended  upon  tlie 
American  coast.  Many  trophies  of  the  war  of  1812  were  kept  here  (a.s  similar  marine 
mementos  of  another  nation  are  kept  in  the  Brooklyn  and  NVashington  Navy- Yards), 
including  the  figure-head  of  tlie  unfortunate  American  frigate,  the  CVirsapenke, 
which  was  captured  in  1813,  olT  Boston  Harbor,  by  the  Ih'itish  frigate  S/iannon,  and 
W!is  brought  into  Halifax  with  groat  rejoicing  It  is,  perhaps,  in  khidly  recognition 
of  the  new  fraternity  of  the  Anglo-Aniorican  nations,  that  the  Imperial  Government 
has  lately  caused  these  invidious  emblems  of  strife  to  bo  removed. 

The  Dockyard  is  not  open  to  tho  public,  but  the  superintendent  will  generally 
admit  visitors  upon  presentation  of  their  cards. 

In  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  foot  of  Citadel  Hill,  is  the 
Military  Hospital,  before  which  is  the  Garrison  Chapel,  a  plain  wooden 
building  on  whose  inner  walls  are  many  mural  tablets  in  memory  of  offi- 
cers wlio  have  died  on  this  station.  Beyond  this  point,  Brunswick  St. 
runs  N.  W.  by  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer  to  St.  George's  Churchy  a  sin- 
gular wooden  building  of  a  circular  form.  At  the  corner  of  Brunswick 
and  Gerrish  Sts.  is  a  cemetery,  in  which  stands  a  quaint  little  church 
dating  from  1761,  having  been  erected  by  one  of  the  first  companies  of 
German  immigrants. 

On  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph,  where  the  Catholic  seamen 
of  the  fleet  attend  mass  on  Sunday  at  9^  A.  m.  Near  this  building  is  the 
Orphan  Asylum  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Farther  N.  on  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  beyond 
which,  on  North  St.,  is  the  Roman  Catholic  College  of  St.  Mary,  at  Belle 
Air.  This  institution  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Christian  Brothers,  and 
has  the  same  line  of  studies  as  an  American  high-school.  Farther  out  on 
Gottingen  St.  is  the  Admiralty  House,  the  official  residence  of  the  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  North-American  and  West-Indian  Squadrons,  be- 
yond which  are  the  Wellington  Barracks,  over  the  Richmond  railway- 
station.    From  the  plateau  on  which  the  secluded  Admiralty  House  is 


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98       lioitte  19. 


HALIFAX. 


locateci,  the  visitor  cun  look  down  on  tho  Queen's  Dockyard,  the  fleet, 
and  tho  inner  harbor. 

The  Roman  Catliolic  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary  is  on  the  Sprinp;  Garden 
Road,  near  its  intersection  with  Pleasant  St.  It  has  recently  been  mndi 
enlarged  and  inijiroved  by  the  addition  of  an  elcfiant  granite  fatj'ade  and 
spire,  in  florid  Clothic  architecture.  The  Cathedral  fronts  on  an  old  and 
honored  cemetery,  on  whose  K.  side  is  a  finely  conceived  *  monument  to 
Welsford  and  Parker,  the  Nova-Scotian  h(>roes  of  the  Crimean  War. 
(Major  Welsford  was  killed  in  the  storming  of  the  Redan.)  It  consists  of 
a  small  but  massive  arch  of  brownstone,  standing  on  a  l)n)ad  graidte  base, 
and  supporting  a  statue  of  the  British  lion.  Opposite  the  cemetery,  on 
Pleasant  St.,  is  the  Presbyterian  Church  oi  St.  Matthew  (under  the  care 
of  the  Kev.  Mr.  I.ain;^').  Above  the  Cathedral,  on  the  Spring  Garden 
Koad,  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Court  House,  well  situated  amid 
open  grounds,  near  the  jail  and  the  capacious  drill-sheds. 

The  Public  Gardens  are  on  the  Spring-Garden  Koad,  and  cover  18  acres, 
charmingly  laid  out,  Avith  pleasant  paths,  winding  ponds,  deep  shrubber- 
ies, and  a  wealtli  of  rich  flowers.  A  military  band  plays  here  Saturday 
afternoons,  and  sometimes  on  sununer  evenings,  when  the  Gardens  are 
lighted  by  electricity.  The  Wanderers'  Athletic-Club  grounds  are  on  the 
side  toward  the  Citadel;  the  celebrated  Camp-Hill  Cemetery  on  the  W.; 
the  great  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  in  pleasant  grounds,  and  the  Pooi- 
Ilouse,  on  theS.;  and  the  splciulid  new  buildings  of  Dalhousie  College. 
In  this  region  also  the  new  Chun  h-of-Knjiland  Cathedral  (Bishop  Frederick 
Courtney,  late  of  St.  Paul's  (Miurch,  Boston)  is  being  built. 

The  Government  House  is  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Matthew's 
Church,  on  Pleasant  St.,  and  is  the  official  rei=idence  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  a  plain  and  massive  old  stone  building, 
with  projecting  wings,  and  is  nearlv  surrounded  by  trees.  Farther  S  ,  on 
Morris  St.,  is  the  Anglican  Cathedral  of  St.  Luke,  a  plain  and  homely 
wooden  building.  Beyond  this  point  are  the  ,  .  ^tty  wooden  churches  and 
villas  which  extend  toward  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  foot  of  South  St.  are  the  Ordnance  Grounds,  from  whopc  wharf  the  lower 
harbor  is  ovcrlookeil.  About  1,800  ft.  distant  is  George's  Island,  on  whicli  is 
a  powerful  modern  fortress,  bearing  a  heavy  armament  from  which  inunen.**e chilled- 
iron  or  steel-pointed  shot  could  be  hurled  against  a  hostile  fleet.  This  po.sition  is 
the  key  to  the  harbor,  and  converges  its  fire  with  that  of  Fort  Clarence,  a  low  but 
massive  casemated  work,  1  M.  S.  E.  on  the  Dartmouth  shore,  whose  guns  could 
sweep  the  Eastern  Pas.sage  and  the  inner  harbor.  The  passage  from  the  outer  har- 
bor is  defended  by  the  York  Redoubt,  near  Sandwich  Point,  by  a  new  line  of  bat- 
teries ou  the  N.  W.  shore  of  McNab's  lE^land,  and  by  the  forts  on  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  corner  of  Prince  and  Barrington  Sts.  is  St.  Paul's  Episcopid 
Church,  a  plain  and  spacious  old  building  (built  in  1750),  with  numerous 
mural  tablets  on  the  inner  walls.  Dalhomie  College  and  University,  near 
the  Public  Garden,  was  founded  by  the  Earl  of  Dalhousie  while  he  was 
Governor-General  of  Canada.     Its  design  was  to  provide  means  for  the 


"^ 


HALIFAX. 


RouUi  JO.      09 


lilu-ral  ediifutioii  of  yoiin^  nu'ii  who  did  not  wish  to  ^o  (or  were  debarri'd 
tniiu  f,'oin>;)  to  Kinj^'s  Collej^o,  jit  VV^iiidyor.  Its  aiiciont  hidls,  at  Duke 
and  IJarrington  Sts.,  were  demolished  in  1887.  to  make  room  ior  the  new 
city  buildings. 

In  the  summer  of  1746  the  (jreat  French  Armada  sailed  from  Brest  to  conquer  the 
British  North-American  coast  from  Virpui.a  to  Nc>stbutidliiiul  It  wiis  commaiidud 
liV  the  Duke  d"Anville,.".nd  was  c()U)post>d  of  tliu  iiiit-df-liattle  siiips  Trit/tnt,  Afleitt, 
M(ir$  and  Alcif/e,  ♦34  (Jjuiis  eacli ;  Mh'  NortUiinihrrlnml ,  CariLon,Ti^re,  Leo/uin/,  and 
Hinotvmie,  60  guns  eacli ;  tlie  Diawunt,  6<) ;  Mmert^,  '.i.)\  Ar^(>nauti\,'2S\\  Prime 
d' Ormige ,  "2^ ;  tl»e  Par/nit,  Merture,  Pahiu  ,  Uiri)tts,  Prrle,  and  2'J  other  fri^jates, 
witlj  30  transports,  carryinj?  an  army  of  3,100  soldiers.  D'Anville's  orders  wtre  to 
"occupy  Louisbourg,  to  reduce  Nova  Scotia,  to  destroy  Boston,  and  ravage  the 
coast  of  New  England.*'  Tlie  Armada  wjis  dispersed,  however,  iiy  a  succession  of 
unparalleled  and  disastrous  storms,  and  D'Anville  reached  Chebucto  May  (Halifax) 
on  Sept.  10,  with  only  2  ships  of  the  line  and  a  few  transports.  Six  days  litter  the 
unfortunate  Duke  died  of  apoplexy,  induced  by  grief  and  distress  on  account  of  the 
disasters  which  his  enterprise  had  sufTered.  The  Vicc-Admiral  D'Estournelie  com- 
niitt«^d  suicide  a  few  dajs  later.  Some  other  vessels  now  arrived  here,  and  innnenso 
barracks  were  erected  along  the  Bedford  Basin.  1,200  men  had  died  from  scurvy  ou 
the  outward  voyage,  and  the  camps  were  soon  turned  into  hospitals.  Over  1,000 
French  soldiers  and  2  -  300  Micmac  Indians  died  around  the  Bawin  and  were  buried 
near  its  quiet  waters.  Oct.  13,  the  French  lleet,  numbering  5  ships  of  the  lino 
and  25  frigates  and  transports,  sailed  from  Halifax,  iiitcnding  to  attack  Annapolis 
Uoyal ;  but  another  terrible  storm  arose,  while  the  vessels  wi  re  oiT  t'apc  Sable,  and 
scattered  the  remains  of  the  Armada  in  such  wide  confusion  that  they  were  obliged 
to  retire  from  the  .\merican  waters. 

The  Indians  called  Halifax  harbor  Chebucto,  meaning  "the  chief  haven,"  and  the 
French  named  it  La  Bale  Saine,  "on  account  of  the  .silubrity  of  the  air." 

In  the  year  1748  the  British  Lords  of  Trale,  incited  by  the  people  of  Massachu- 
setts, determined  to  found  a  city  on  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  partly  iu  prospect  of 
couunercial  advantages,  and  partly  to  keep  the  Acadians  in  check.  I*arii:iment 
voted  £40,(KX)  for  this  purpose;  and  on  June  21,  1749,  a  tieet  of  13  transports 
and  the  sloop-of-war  Sphinx  arrived  in  the  designated  harbor,  bearing  2,37u  colo- 
nists (of  whom  over  1,500  were  men).  The  city  was  liid  out  in  July, and  wius named 
in  honor  of  George  Montagu,  Earl  of  llulifax,  the  head  of  the  Lords  of  Trade.  The 
Acadians  and  the  Indians  soon  sent  in  their  submi.■;^ion ;  but  in  1751  the  suburb  of 
Dartmouth  was  attacked  atnight  by  the  latter,  and  many  of  its  citizens  were  massacred. 
500  Oennans  settled  hero  in  1751-52,  but  it  was  found  diiTicult  to  preserve  the  col- 
ony, since  so  many  of  its  citizens  passed  over  to  the  New-England  Provinces.  The  great 
fleets  and  armies  of  Loudon  and  Wolfe  concentrated  here  before  advancing  against 
Louisbourg  and  Quebec  ;  and  the  city  afterwards  grew  in  importance  as  a  naval  sta- 
tion. Representative  government  was  established  in  175S,  and  the  Parliament  of 
1770  remained  in  session  for  14  years,  while  Halifax  was  made  one  of  the  chief  sta- 
tions wlience  the  royal  forces  were  directed  upon  the  insurgent  American  colonies. 
After  tlie  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  many  thousands  of  exiled  Loyalists  took 
refuge  here  ;  and  the  wooden  walls  and  towers  with  which  tlie  city  had  been  forti- 
fied were  replaced  with  more  formid.ible  defences  by  Prince  Ed>vard. 

The  ancient  pilisade-wall  includcul  the  space  betwecMi  the  present  Salter,  Barring- 
ton,  and  Jacob  Streets,  and  the  harbor  ;  and  its  citadel  was  the  small  Governmeat 
House,  ou  the  site  of  the  present  Parliament  Building,  which  was  surrounded  witu 
hogsheads  filled  with  sand,  over  wliich  light  cannons  were  displayed. 

The  growth  of  Halifax  during  tlie  present  ceatury  has  been  very  slow,  in  view  of 
its  great  commerci.il  advantages  and  po.^sibilities.  The  presence  of  large  bodies  of 
troops,  and  the  semi-military  regime  of  a  girrison-town,  have  hatl  a  certain  effect  iu 
(leiideuing  the  energy  of  the  citizens.  Great  sums  of  money  were,  liowever,  made 
here  during  the  American  civil  war,  when  the  symi)athies  of  the  llaligoniaus  were 
warmly  enlisted  iu  favor  of  the  revolted  States,  and  many  blockade-runners  sailed 
hence  to  reap  rich  harvests  in  the  Southern  i)orts.  The  cessation  of  the  war  put  a 
stop  to  this  lucrative  trade  ;  but  it  is  now  hoped  that  the  completion  of  t  le  Inter- 
colonial Railway  to  St.  John  and  Quebec  will  greatly  benefit  Halifax.  There  is  a 
rivalry  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  which  resembles  that  between  Chicago  and  St. 
Luui^,  and  leads  to  similar  journalistic  tournaments.    St.  John  claims  that  she  ba.s 


I 


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]  ■ 

■ 

■ 


I 


.1 


I  ,^--'-H 


100       Routed    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  HALIFAX. 

a  flrst-clara  hotel  and  a  theatre,  which  Halifax  has  not ;  and  the  NovarScotian  city 
answers,  in  return,  that  she  has  the  best  cricket-club  and  the  champion  oarsman  of 
America. 

Sir  William  Fenwick  Williams,  of  Kars,  Bart.,  K.  C.  B.,  D.  C.  L.,  was  born  at  Ilali- 
fax  in  1800.  Atler  serving  in  Coylou,  Turkey, and  Persia,  he  instructed  the  Moslem 
artillery,  and  fortified  the  city  of  Kars.  Hi  re  he  was  besieged  by  the  Rut^sians,  under 
Gen.  Mouravielf.  He  defeated  the  enemy  near  the  city,  but  was  forced  to  surrender 
after  a  heroic  defence  of  six  months,  being  a  sacrifice  to  British  diplomacy.  He  was 
afterwards  Commander  of  the  Forces  in  Canada. 

Admiral  Sir  Provo  Wallis  was  born  at  Halifax  in  1791,  and  was  early  engaged  in 
the  great  battle  between  the  Cleopatra,  32,  and  the  French  ViUe  de  Milan,  46.  He 
afterwards  served  on  the  i'urieitx,  the  Glnirr,a,nd  the  Shannon,  to  whose  command 
he  succeeded  after  the  buttle  with  the  Chesapeake. 

20.    The  Environs  of  Halifax. 

The  favorite  drive  from  Halifax  is  to  tlie  Fimr-Mik  House,  and  along 
the  shores  of  the  *  Bedford  Basin.  This  noble  sheet  of  wutcr  is  6  M.  long 
and  1-3  M.  wide,  with  from  8  to  36  fathoms  of  depth.  It  is  entered  by 
way  of  the  Narrows,  a  passage  2(^-3  M.  long  and  ^  M.  v.ido,  leading  from 
Halifax  Harbor.  It  is  bordered  on  all  sidc^  by  bold  hills  200-330  ft.  iii 
height,  between  which  are  10  square  miles  of  set-nvo  anchoring-gi-omid. 
The  village  of  Bedford  is  on  the  W.  slioro,  and  has  several  summer  hotels 
(Bellevue,  Seaview,  etc.).  The  steamer  Golinh  leaves  Halifax  for  Bedford 
at  11  A.  M.  and  2  p.  m.  daily.  During  the  summer  the  light  vessels  of  the 
Royal  Halifax  Yacht  Club  are  seen  in  the  Basin  daily ;  and  exciting  rowing- 
matches  sometimes  come  off  near  the  Four-!Mile  House. 

Along  the  shores  of  the  Bedford  Basin  were  the  n.ournful  canif);;  and  hospitab  of 
the  French  Armada,  in  1740,  and  1,300  men  were  buiii  ;1  there  Tiicir  rcmainn  wore 
found  by  subtoquen)  pcttlors.  The  firt;t  iwrmanent  colonies  along  these  shores  were 
made  by  Massachusetts  Loyalists  in  1784. 

Hammond'^s  Pla'nxs  arc  7  M.  W.  of  Bedford,  and  were  settled  in  1815  by  Blavcs 
brought  away  fVom  the  shores  of  Maryland  and  Vir,";inia  by  tie  Biiti:  h  flcctr^.  Thii 
is,  like  the  other  villages  of  freed  blacks  throughont  the  Provi.-.c  o,  dirt;,-  and  dila]  i- 
dated  to  the  last  degree.  To  the  N.  W.  is  the  Pockwock  Lake,  4  BI.  long,  with  di- 
versified shores,  and  abounding  in  trout. 

*'  The  road  to  Point  Pleasant  is  a  favorite  promenade  in  the  long  Acadian 
twilights.  Midway  between  the  city  and  the  Point  lies  '  Kissing  Bridge,' 
which  the  Halifax  maidens  sometimes  i)ass  over.  Who  gathers  toll  nobody 
knows,  but  —  " 

Point  Pleasant  projects  between  tli(  larbor  and  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  is 
covered  with  pretty  groves  of  evergreen  trees,  threaded  by  narrow  roads, 
and  now  laid  out  for  a  public  park.     The  principal  fortification  is 

Fort  Ocjilvie,  a  garrisoned  post,  wlioso  artillery  commands  the  channel. 
A  short  distance  t>  the  W.  is  the  antiquated  structure  called  W\c Prince  of 
Wahs's  Tower,  from  which  fine  views  are  aUbrded.  The  Puint  Plcnsaiit 
BatUry  is  near  the  water's  edge,  and  is  intended  to  sweep  the  outer 
passage. 

The  Northwest  Arm  is  4  M.  long  and  i  M.  wide,  and  is  a  river-liko 
inlet,  which  runs  N.  W.  from  the  harbor  to  witliin  2  M.  of  the  Bedford  Basin. 


DARTMOUTH. 


Route  SI.       101 


Its  shores  are  h'gh  and  picturesque,  and  on  tlie  Halifax  side  are  several 
fine  mansi  )ns,  surrounded  by  ornamental  fi;roun(ls.  In  the  upper  part  of 
the  Arm  is  Melville  /slaml,  where  Amerii-an  prisoners  were  kept  during 
the  War  of  1812.  Fergus(m's  Cove  is  a  picturesque«k'illage  on  the  N.  W. 
Arm,  iidiabited  chiefly  by  fishermen  and  pilots.  The  Mapltwood  is  a  new 
and  i)leasant  summer-resort,  on  the  Northwest  Arm. 

riic  steamer  Micmnc  makes  regular  trips  durinj^  the  summer  up  the 
N.  W.  Ann,  and  to  McNub^s  hland^  which  is  3  M.  lontj,  and  has  a  sum- 
mer hotel  and  some  heuvv  military  works,  with  Meagher's  Ikach  and  the 
Military  Range.  On  Lawler's  Island  is  the  Quarantine  Hospital.  The 
fortress  on  George's  Island  is  the  key  of  the  harbor. 

Dartmouth  {Acadian  House)  is  situated  on  the  harbor,  opposite  the  city 
of  Halifax,  to  which  a  steam  ferry-boat  makes  frequent  trips.  It  has  sev- 
eral pretty  villas  belonging  to  Halifax  merchants;  Pud  at  about  ^  M.  from 
the  village  is  the  spacious  and  imposing  building  of  the  Mount  Hope  Asylum 
for  the  Insane,  a  long,  castellated  granite  building  which  overlooks  the 
harbor.  Dartmouth  has  6,000  inhabitants  and  5  churches,  and  derives 
prosperity  from  the  working  of  several  foundries  and  steam-tanneries.  It 
is  also  the  seat  of  the  Chebucto  Marine  Railway.  This  town  was  founded 
in  1750,  but  was  soon  afterwards  destroyed,  with  some  of  its  people,  by  the 
Inilans.  In  1784  it  was  reoccupied  by  men  of  Nantuckt.v  who  preferred 
royalism  to  republicanism.  The  Montague  Gold-Mines  are  4  M.  from 
Dartmouth,  and  have  yielded  in  f)aying  quantities.  Cow  Bay  i^ii  few  miles 
S.  K.  of  Dartmouth,  and  is  much  v  sited  in  summer,  on  account  of  its  fine 
marine  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  liathing.  The  Dartmouth  Lakes  com- 
mence within  1  M.  of  the  town,  and  were  fonnerlv  a  favorite  resort  of 
sportsmen,  but  are  now  nearly  fished  out. 


■4  •*  * 
r     -  M 


■'i':.\ 


'v',;i 


i  -'■ 

r. 


21.   The  Basin  of  Minas.— Halifisa  to  St.  John. 

Halifiix  to  Windsor,  ste  Rout«-  iS  (in  leveisf). 

The  st>  limbo  it  loutt^  from  U'lndsor  to  St.  John  in  here  described.    Steamboftts 

ply  tetwi't'D  Kiuusp'Tf,  .laiitsport,  aud  I'ansboro'. 

As  the  steamer  moves  out  from  her  wharf  at  Windsor,  a  pleasant  view 
is  allorded  of  the  old  college  town  astern,  with  the  farming  village  of  Fal- 
nmiith  on  the  I.  and  shipbuilding  Newport  on  the  r.,  hoyond  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  River.  The  shores  are  high  and  ridgy,  and  the  mouth  of 
til.'  Kennetcook  River  is  passed  (on  the  r. )  about  f*  M.  below  Windsor. 
2-3  M.  below  is  Hnntsport  (1.  bank),  a  thriving  toarino  village  opposite 
the  niunth  of  the  Cockmigon  River.  On  Horton  Blnf!"  (1.  hank)  is  a  light- 
house which  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  20  M.,  and 
lieyond  this  point  the  steamer  enters  the  *  Basin  of  Minas.  On  the  1.  are 
the  low  ridges  of  L(»ng  Island  and  Hoot  Island,  rising  on  the  margin  of  a 
wide  and  verdant  meadow.  The  meadow  is  Orand  Pr^,  the  land  of 
Evangeline  (see  Route  22).    Mile  after  mile  the  fertile  plains  of  Cornwallis 


M 


102       Route  21. 


CAPE  BLOMIDON. 


open  on  the  1.,  bounded  by  the  Horton  hills  nnd  the  dark  line  of  the  North 
Mt.  In  advance  is  the  bold  and  clear-ont  outline  of  Cape  Hlomidoa, 
brooding  over  the  water,  and  on  the  r.  aro  the  low  but  well-defined  blud's 
of  Chiiirify  rich  in  ffvpsuni  and  linicstone.  It  is  about  22  M.  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Avon  to  I*arrsboro',  and  the  coiu'se  of  the  steamer  continu- 
ally approaches  lUdniidon. 

Cai)«  Dloinldoii  is  ii  vjist  prcripioc  of  n d  saiHlston(>  of  the  Trinssic  orn,  with 
ptroii);  iiiarkH  of  volninir  iK-tion.  "  Tli»'  dark  luisaltic  wall,  rovt'icd  with  thick 
wc  ods,  th«>  t«'rra<<'  of  anivj^hiloid,  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  lifjht-j^n'fii  nhnihs 
and  Noung  irt'i's  tliat  rapidly  sprinji  upon  its  rich  and  moist  surliicu,  tlui  pwcipiic 
of  hrif^ht  red  Nuidstonc,  always  clean  and  fresh,  and  contrasting  tttrongly  with  the 
trap  above,  ....  constitute  a  coUibination  of  forms  and  colors  equally  strikiufj,  if 
fieu  ill  tlic  distiiiiec  from  the  hiils  of  Ilortoc  or  Parrshoro",  or  more  ii(>arly  from 
t'ae  sea  or  the  stony  beach  at  its  base.  IMoii  i  Ion  is  a  scene  never  to  1  e  forfjottcu  liy 
a  traveller  who  has  wandered  around  its  chores  or  damlerod  on  its  giddx  preci- 
pices." Tlio  cape  is  aliout  HTll  ft.  hi^h.and  presents  an  interesting  sight  when  its 
dark-red  summit  is  pwring  above  the  white  sea-fogs,  ^'ir  William  L.>ell,  tliutmi- 
nent  Britisli  geologist,  made  a  careful  study  of  tlic  phenomena  of  this  vicinity. 

The  Indian  legend  says  tliat  ]>lomidon  was  made  by  tlie  divine  (Jlooscap,  who 
broke  the  great  bcaver-dani  off  this  sliore  and  swung  its  end  around  into  its  present 
position.  Afterwards  lie  crossed  to  tlie  new-made  eapo  and  strewed  its  slopes  with 
tae  ginuH  tliat  arc  found  tlicre  to-day,  carrying  tlience  a  set  of  rare  ornaments  for 
his  ancient  and  mysterious  lemalo  comi)aiiion.  The  beicfuent  eliief  brctke  away  tlio 
beavcr-dani  because  it  was  Hooding  all  the  Cornwallis  Valley,  and  in  liis  conliict  with 
the  (3roat  lU-avcr  he  threw  at  him  Iiuge  masses  of  rock  and  cartli,  wliich  are  the 
present  Five  Islands.  \V.  of  Vtkoiiinirhfedi  (lUomidon)  the  end  of  the  dam  swept 
around  and  beciune  Pleesun  (Cape  i^plit). 

As  Blomidon  is  left  on  the  port  beam,  the  steanu>r  hurries  across  tli« 
rapid  currents  of  the  outlet  of  the  Basin.  In  front  is  seen  the  white  vil- 
hige  of  I'arrsboro',  backed  by  the  dark  inululutions  of  the  Cobequid  Mts. 
Just  before  reachiiiix  I'arrsboro'  the  ves.xel  approaches  and  passes  Pai'- 
tridf/e  Jslond  (on  the  1.),  a  singular  jjisuhited  hill  260  ft.  high,  and  con- 
nected w  th  the  mainland  at  low  tide  by  a  narrow  beach. 

Partridge  Island  was  the  Piiloicer/i  Minirffoo  of  the  Micmacs,  and  was  a  favorite 
location  for  legends  of  Ulooscap.  On  liis  last  great  .journ»'y  trom  Newfoundland  by 
Pictou  through  Acadia  and  into  tlie  unknown  West,  lie  built  a  grand  road  from 
Fort  Cumberland  to  this  shon>  for  the  u.«e  of  his  weary  coinitanions.  This  minicii- 
lously  firmed  ridge  is  now  occupied  by  the  post-n)ad  to  the  N.  W.,  and  is  called  by 
the  Indians  (hcnuikioi  (the  causeway).  At  Partridge  Island  (ilooscap  iiad  ids  cel- 
ebnited  revel  with  the  suiH'rnatural  Kit-poos-<>-jig-uiH)w,  the  deliverer  of  all  op- 
pressed, who  was  taken  out  alive  from  his  motluM'  (slain  by  a  giiintl,  was  thrown 
into  a  well,  and,  being  miraculously  preserved  there,  cane  forth  in  due  time  to  fullil 
his  high  duty  to  men.  These  marvellous  friemls  wenr  out  on  the  Hasin  in  a  stone 
canoe  to  fish  by  torchlight,  and,  after  cruising  over  the  dark  waters  for  some  time, 
speared  a  monstrous  whale.  They  tossed  him  into  the  canoe  "  as  though  \w  were  ii 
trout,'*  and  made  for  tlie  shore,  where,  in  their  brotlierly  feast,  the  whule  was  en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro'  (two  iinis)  is  prettily  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river, 
nnd  under  the  shelter  of  Partridge  Island.  It  ha'^  aoout  2,000  inhabitant-, 
with  five  churches,  and  is  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade.  The  beauty  of 
the  situat  on  ami  the  views,  together  with  the  sporting  facilities  in  the 
back-country,  have  made  Parrsboro'  a  jileasure  resort  of  considerable  re- 
pute, and  the  neat  hotel  called  the  Summer  House  is  well  patronized.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  points  from  which  to  enter  the  fine  hunting  and-  fishing 


PARRHBORO'. 


Route  '^l.     1 03 


districts  of  Cumberland  County,  and  guides  and  outfits  may  be  secured. 

There  are  (5  boanlin^-liouses  here,  and  2  at  Partridge  Island.  The  railroad 
fniiii  Parrsboro'  to  Spriiig-llill  Junction  {'-Vl  M.),  un  the  Inlerc(»lonial  line, 
runs  through  the  best  scenery  of  the  Cobequid  Mts. 

"  Parrsboro'  enjoys  more  than  Its  Hhare  of  t)roafl,  pravclly  beacli,  overhunfr  with 
rliftotl  antl  woody  hkiirH.  One  fresh  from  the  dead  walls  of  a  ^reat  city  would  l«>  de- 
ij^^lited  with  the  sylvan  shores  of  I'arrshoro',  The  l»ea<-h,  with  all  its  hn;adth,  a 
nririu'le  of  pebbly  beauty,  slants  steeply  t(i  t\\v  surf,  wbicli  is  now  rollinj;  np  in  eurU 
iii)r  clouds  of  jrreen  and  white.  Here  we  turn  westwanl  iiih)  the  ^c^■«■at  bay  it>elf, 
jfoiiiir  with  a  tide  that  rushes  like  a  niij^lity  river  toward  a  cataract,  whirling,  boil- 
jii^r,  ttreiikiiiK  in  l)alf-nioons  of  crispy  foam."    (L.  I>.  Noiii,!';.) 

"  Pleasant  I'arrsboro',  with  its  fjreen  hills,  neat  cottu^ce.-,  and  slopinj;  shores  laved 
bv  the  .>-ea  when  the  tide  is  full,  but  weariuK  quite  a  dillerent  aspect  when  the  tide 
H()es  out  ;  for  then  it  is  left  perched  thirty  feet  iiigh  uiion  a  red  clay  blulT.  and  the 
lisliini^-boats  which  were  afloat  before  are  careened  upon  their  beam  ends,  hij^h  and 
dry  out  of  water.  The  lon^  massive  pier  at  which  the  stwunboat  lately  landed, 
lifts  up  its  naked  bulk  of  tree-nailed  lo^s,  reeking  with  \i.  -en  oo/ieand  sea-weed  ;  and 
a  lii);h  conical  island  which  constitutes  the  chief  feature  of  the  landscape  is  trans- 
formed  into  a  bold  promontory,  connected  with  the  uiuinlund  by  a  huge  ridge  of 
brick-red  clay."     (Hallock.) 

Gentlemen  who  are  interested  in  geological  studic.iwill  have  a  nirerhancetoniake 
collections  about  l*arrsboro'  and  the  shores  of  Minas  The  most  favorable  time  is 
when  the  blulfs  have  been  cracked  and  scaled  l>y  recent  frosts  ;  or  just  afhu'  the  close 
of  the  winter,  when  nun'li  fresh  lichris  is  found  at  the  foot  of  the  dill's.  Among  the 
minerals  on  I'artriilge  Island  are:  analcime,  apophyllite,  anieth.>>t,  agate,  apatite, 
calcite  (at)undant,  in  yellow  crystals),  ehabazite,  chalcedony,  eafs-eu?,  gypsum, 
hematite,  heulanditc;,  magnetite,  stilbite  (very  al)unilant),  jitsper,  cacholong,  opal, 
semi-opal,  and  gold-beiring  (piart/..  About  CajH!  IJlomidon  are  found  analcime, 
agate,  amethyst,  apophyllit^r  calcite,  chalce<lony,  chabazitc'-gmelinite,  faroelile, 
hematite,  magnetite,  heulandite,  laumonite,  fibrous  g^  psmn,  mala<diite,  mesolite, 
native  co])per,  natrolite,  stilbite,  psilomelane,  and  (juartz  Obsidian,  malachite, gold, 
and  copjHr  are  found  at  ('a|H3  d'Or;  ja'-per  and  tine  (juartz  crystals,  on  Spencer's 
I.«l,md  ;  augite,  amianthus,  pyrit«'s,  and  wad,  at  I'arrsboro" ;  and  both  at  Five  Islands 
and  Scotsman's  Hay  there  are  beautiful  specimens  of  moss  n^Hi.  At  (loniNvallis 
is  fbinid  tiie  rare  mineral  called  Wichtisit*'  (re.'^embling  ob.^idian.  in  gray  and  deep 
blue  colors),  which  is  only  known  in  one  other  place  on  earth,  at  Wichtis,  in  Fin- 
land. The  purple  and  violent  ({iiartz.  or  amethyst,  of  th(!  Minas  shores,  is  of  great 
beauty  and  value.  A  Dlomidoti  amethyst  is  in  the  crown  of  Frapce,  anri  it  is  now 
270  vears  since  the  Sieur  de  Monts  carried  several  large  am«-thysts  from  I'artridgo 
Island  to  Henri  IV.  of  France.  These  gems  are  generally  ibuud  in  geodes,  or  after 
fresh  falls  of  trap-ro(;k. 

Adwcdte  Harbor  and  Cope  </'  Or. 

A  daily  stage  runs  W.  from  Parrsl)oro' through  grand  coast  scener}',  for 
28  M.,  passing  the  hamlets  of  Ko.k  Harbor  aii<l  i'ort  Greville,  and  stop- 
piii,ii;  at  Advocate  Harbor.  'I'his  is  a  se(|uostered  murine  hamlet,  devou-d 
to  shipbuilding  and  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  and  has  about  (iOO  inhabitants. 
It  is  about  60  M.  from  Amherst,  by  a  road  leading  across  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  throngji  Apple  Hiver  (see  page  80).  Some  of  the  finest  marino 
.sccdcry  in  the  Province.^  is  in  (his  viciinty.  8-4  M.  S.  is  the  inunenso 
rocky  peninsula  of  *  Cape  d'Or,  almost  out  oil"  from  the  maiidand  by  a  deep 
rnviiie,  in  whose  bottom  the  salt  tides  U  w.  Cape  d'Or  is  GOO  ft.  h  gh,  and 
has  reeently  become  noted  for  its  rich  (popper  deposits.  OtV  this  point  there 
is  a  heavy  rip  on  the  flood-tide,  which  (lows  with  a  velocity  of  6  knots  an 
hour,  and  rises  33-39  ft.    8  M.  W.  of  Advocate  Harbor,  and  visible  across 


Is" 

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104      Route  SI. 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


the  open  bay,  is  ♦  Cape  ChigneotO,  a  wonderful  headland  of  rock,  730  -  800 
ft.  high,  running  down  sheer  into  the  deep  waters.  This  mountain-prom- 
ontory marks  the  <  ivision  of  the  currents  of  the  Minas  and  Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape  d'Or  is  sometimes  called  Cap  Dorr  on  the  ancient  maps,  and  received  its 
name  on  account  of  the  copi)er  ore  which  was  found  here  by  the  early  Freucli  ex- 
plorers, and  was  supposed  to  be  gold.  The  Acadians  afterwards  opened  mines  here, 
and  the  name,  Lef  Mines,  orit^inaily  applied  to  a  part  of  this  shore,  was  given  to  tli(> 
noble  salt-water  lake  to  the  E.  Minas  is  either  an  English  modification  or  the 
Spanish  equivalent  thereof  Cape  d'Or  was  granted  to  the  Duke  of  Chandos  many 
years  ago,  but  he  did  not  continue  the  mining  operations. 


After  leaving  Parrsboro'  the  steamer  runs  W.  through  the  passage  be- 
tween Cape  Blomidon  and  Cape  Sharp,  which  is  3^  M.  wide,  and  is  swept 
by  the  tide  at  the  rate  of  6-8  knots  an  hour.  On  the  r.  the  ravines  of 
Diligent  River  and  Fox  River  break  the  iron-bound  coasts  of  Curaberlind 
County;  and  on  the  1.  is  a  remarkable  promontory,  7  M.  long  and  1  M. 
wide,  with  an  altitude  of  400  feet,  running  W.  from  Blomidon  between 
the  channel  and  the  semicircular  bight  of  Scotsman's  Bay.  Cape  Split 
18  the  end  of  this  sea-dividing  mountain,  bevond  which  the  S  shores 
fall  suddenly  away,  and  the  steamer  enters  the  Minas  Channel.  12  j\I. 
beyond  Cape  Split,  Spencer's  Island  and  Cape  Spencer  are  passed  on  the 
N.,  beyond  which  are  the  massive  elites  of  Cape  d'Or.  On  the  1.  are  the 
unvarying  ridges  of  the  North  Mt.,  with  obscure  fishing-hamlets  along 
the  shore.  To  the  N.  the  frowning  mass  of  Ca.j>e  Chujnecto  is  seen;  and 
the  course  passes  within  sight  of  the  lofty  and  lonely  rock  of  hh  Haute, 
which  is  7  M.  from  the  nearest  shore.  It  is  1^  M.  long  and  350  ft.  higli, 
and  is  exactly  intersected  by  the  parallel  of  65    W.  from  Greenwich. 

The  steamer  now  passes  down  over  the  o])en  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 
St  John  is  about  62  nautical  miles  from  Is-le  Haute,  in  a  straight  line,  ami 
is  a  little  N.  of  W.  from  that  point,  but  the  exigencies  of  navigation  re- 
quire a  course  considerably  longer  and  more  southerly.  This  portion  of 
the  route  is  usually  traversed  at  night,  and  soon  after  passing  the  powerful 
first-class  red  revolving-light  on  Cape  Sptncer('S,ew  Brunswick),  the  steamer 
runs  in  by  the  Partridge-Island  liglit,  and  enters  the  luirbor  of  St.  John 
about  the  break  of  day. 

St.  John,  see  page  15. 

The  Basin  of  Minas. 

The  8*-eamer  leaves  Parrsboro"  daily,  for  the  villages  on  the  N.  ani 

E.  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.  As  the  times  of  her  departure  are  very  irregular, 
owing  to  the  necessity  of  following  the  tide,  and  her  landings  vary  according  to  cir- 
cum-tancos,  the  I'ollowing  account  relates  to  the  lino  of  th(>  coast  rather  than  to  her 
route.  Siie  is  announced  to  call  at  I'arrsboro',  Londonderry,  Muitland,  Kiugsport, 
SuuHuerville,  and  Windsor. 

Soon  after  leaving  Parrsboro',  Frazer's  Head  is  passed  on  the  1.,  with 
its  cliffs  elevated  nearly  400  feet  above  the  water.    About  15  M-  E.  of 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


Route  21.       105 


Parrsboro'  are  the  remarkable  insulated  peaks  of  the  *Five  Islands,  the 
chief  of  which  is  350  ft.  high,  rising  from  the  waters  of  the  Basin.  On  tha 
adjacent  shore  is  the  village  of  Five  Islands,  occupying  a  very  picturesque 
position,  and  containing  600  inhabitants.  In  this  vicinity  are  found  iron, 
copper,  and  plumbago,  and  white-lead  is  extracted  in  considerable  quan- 
tities from  minerals  mined  among  the  hills.  Marble  was  formerly  produced 
here,  but  the  quarries  are  now  abandoned.  The  massve  ridg(3  variously 
known  as  Mt.  Gerrish,  St.  Peter's  Mt-,  and  R(m1  Head,  looms  over  the  vil- 
la"'e  to  a  height  of  500  ft.,  having  a  singularly  bold  and  alpine  character 
for  so  small  an  elevation.  On  its  lower  slopes  are  found  pockets  containing 
fine  barytes,  of  w^hich  large  quantities  are  sent  to  the  United  States.  A 
mass  of  over  150  pounds'  weight  was  sent  from  this  place  to  the  Paris  Ex- 
position of  1867.  A  few  miles  W.  of  the  village  are  the  falls  on  the  North 
River,  which  are  90  ft.  high;  and  to  the  N.  is  the  wild  and  picturesque 
scenerv  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  Stages  run  from  Londonderry  Station  to 
Five  Islands,  which  is  indeed  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  in  Canada.  The 
sca-bcach  is  magnificent,  and  tlie  facilities  for  bathing  and  boating  ex- 
cellent.    Broderick's  Hotel  commands  tine  finest  part  of  the  shore. 

"  Before  them  lay  the  outlines  of  Five  Islands,  rising  beautifully  out  of  the  wat«r 

between  them  and  the  mainland The  two  more  distant  were  rounded  and 

well  wooded;  the  third,  which  was  midway  among  the  group,  had  lofty,  precipitous 
Biiles,and  the  summit  was  dome-shaped;  the  fourth  was  like  a  table,  rising  with 
perpendicular  sides  to  the  height  of  200  ft.,  with  a  flat,  level  surface  above,  which 
was  all  overgrown  with  fi>rest  trees.  The  last,  and  nearest  of  the  group,  was  by  far 
the  most  singular.  It  was  a  bare  rock  which  rose  irregularly  from  the  sea,  termi- 
nating at  one  end  in  a  peak  which  rose  about  200  ft.  in  the  air It  resembled, 

more  than  anything  else,  a  vast  cathedral  rising  out  of  the  sea,  the  chief  mass  of  the 
roik  corresponding  with  the  main  part  of  the  cathedral,  while  the  tower  and  spire 
wore  there  in  all  their  majesty.     For  this  cause  the  rock  has  received  the  name  of 

Pinnacle  Island At  its  base  they  saw  the  white  foam  of  breaking  surf;  while 

far  on  high  around  its  lofty,  tempest-beaten  summit,  they  saw  myriads  of  sea-gulls- 
Oiithering  in  gr<  at  white  clouds  about  this  place,  they  sported  and  chased  one  an- 
other ;  they  sci  amed  and  uttered  their  shrill  yells,  which  sounded  afar  over  the 
sea."    (DeMu.L£.) 

10  M.  beyond  these  islands  the  steamer  passes  the  lofty  and  far-project- 
ing peninsula  of  Economy^  Point,  and  enters  the  Cobequid  Bay  (which 
ascends  to  Truro,  a  distance  of  36  M.).  After  touching  at  Londonderry, 
on  the  N.  shore,  the  steamer  crosses  the  bay  to  Maithind  (two  inns),  a 
busy  and  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie 
River  (see  page  82). 

The  S.  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  is  lined  with  bluffs  100-  180  ft.  high, 
but  is  far  less  imposing  than  the  N.  shore  Noel  is  about  15  M.  W.  of 
M:utland,  and  is  situated  on  a  pretty  little  bay  between  Noel  Head  and 
Uiu'nt-Coat  Head.  It  has  300  inhabitants,  and  produces  the  mineral  called 
terra  alba,  used  in  bleaching  cottons.  It  is  not  found  elsewhere  in  Amer- 
ica.   After  leaving  Noel  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Burnt-Coat 

'  Economfi  is  derived  from  the  lodtan  name  Kenoinec,  which  was  applied  to  the  lame 
place,  and  means  "  Sandy  Point." 

6* 


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106      Route  21. 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


fi 


P 


Head,  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  follov/ed  to  the  S.  W.  for  about  20  M.  to 
Walton^  a  villaf^e  of  600  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  the  La  Tete  River. 
Many  thousand  tons  of  gypsum  and  plaster  of  Paris  (calcined  gypsum)  are 
annually  shipped  from  this  port  to  the  United  States.  Immense  quantities 
are  exported  also  from  the  coasts  of  Chinrie^  which  extend  from  Walton 
S.  W.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Avon  River.  The  whole  back  country  is  com- 
posed of  limestone  soil  and  gypsum-beds,  whose  mining  and  shipment 
form  an  industry  of  increasing  importance.  Beyond  the  Chivirie  coast  the 
steamer  ascends  the  Avon  River  to  Windsor. 

The  Basin  of  Minas  was  the  favorite  home  of  Gi.ooscap,  the  Hiawatha  of  the  Mic- 
macs,  whose  traditions  describe  him  as  an  envoy  from  the  Great  Spirit,  who  had  the 
form  and  habits  of  humanity,  but  was  exalted  above  all  peril  and  sickness  and  derth. 
He  dwelt  apart  and  above,  in  a  great  wigwam,  and  was  attended  by  an  old  woman 
and  a  beautiful  youth,  and  "  was  never  very  far  from  any  one  of  them,"  who  re- 
ceive.d  his  counsels  His  power  was  unbounded  and  supernatural,  and  was  wielded 
against  the  enchantments  of  the  magicians,  while  his  wisdom  taught  the  Indians 
how  to  hunt  and  fish,  to  heal  diseases,  and  to  build  wigwams  and  canoes.  lie 
named  the  constellations  in  the  heavens,  and  n)any  of  the  chief  points  on  the  Acadian 
shores.  The  Basin  of  Minas  was  his  beaver-pond  ;  Cape  Split  was  the  bulwark  of 
the  dam ;  and  Spencer's  Island  is  his  overturned  kettle.  He  controlled  the  ele- 
ments, and  by  his  magic  wand  led  the  caribou  and  the  bear  to  his  throne.  The 
allied  powers  of  evil  advanced  with  immense  hosts  to  overthrow  his  great  wigwam 
and  break  his  power ;  but  he  extinguished  their  camp-fires  by  night  and  summoned 
the  spirits  of  the  frost  by  wh  )8e  endeavors  the  land  was  visited  by  an  intense  cold, 
and  the  hostile  armies  were  frozen  in  the  forest.  On  the  aiiproach  of  the  English  he 
turned  his  huge  hunting-dogs  into  stor  and  then  passed  away  ;  but  will  return 
again,  right  Spencer's  Island,  call  the  dofe  to  life,  and  once  more  dispense  his  royal 
hospitality  on  the  Minas  shores. 

♦*  Now  the  ways  of  beasts  and  men  waxed  evil,  and  they  greatly  vexed  Glooscap, 
and  at  length  he  could  no  longer  endure  them  ;  and  h(!  made  a  rich  feast  by  the 
shore  of  the  great  lake  (Minas).  All  the  beasts  came  to  it :  and  when  the  feast  wjis 
over,  he  got  into  a  big  canoe,  he  and  his  uncle,  the  Great  Turtle,  and  they  went 
away  over  the  big  lake,  and  the  beasts  looked  after  them  till  they  saw  them  no 
more.  And  after  they  ceased  to  see  them,  they  still  heard  their  voices  as  they  sang, 
but  the  sounds  grew  fainter  and  fainter  in  the  distance,  and  at  last  they  wholly  diid 
away ;  and  then  deep  silence  fell  on  them  all,  and  a  great  marvel  came  to  pass, 
and  the  beasts  who  had  till  now  spoken  but  one  language  no  longer  were  able  to 
understand  each  other,  and  they  all  fled  away,  each  his  own  way,  and  never  again 
have  they  met  together  in  council.  Until  the  day  when  Glooscap  shall  return  to 
restore  the  Golden  Age,  and  make  men  and  animals  dwell  once  more  together  in 
amity  and  peace,  all  Nature  mourns.  The  tradition  states  that  on  his  departure 
from  Acadia  the  great  snowy  owl  retired  to  the  deep  forests  to  return  no  more  until 
he  could  come  to  welcome  Glooscap ;  and  in  those  sylvan  depths  the  owls,  even  yet, 
repeat  to  the  night, '  Koo  koo  skoos!  Koo  kooskoosi '  which  is  to  say,  in  the  In- 
dian tongue,  '  0,  I  am  sorry  I  O,  I  am  sorry  I '  And  the  loons,  who  had  been  the 
huntsmen  of  Glooscap,  go  restlessly  up  and  down  through  the  world,  seeking  vainly 
for  their  master,  whom  they  cannot  find,  and  wailing  sadly  because  they  find  him 
not" 


\ 


I 

p 


JVt 


i 


L^ 


m. 


TFl 


TU£ 


h 


out  20  M.  to 
fi  Tete  River. 
gypsum )  are 
ise  quiintities 
from  Walton 
Luitry  is  com- 
nd  shipment 
nrie  coast  the 


tha  of  the  Mic- 
it,  who  had  the 
aess  and  derth. 
f  an  old  woman 
them,"  who  re- 
nd was  wielded 
jht  the  Indians 
id  canoes.  He 
on  the  Acadian 
the  bulwark  of 
trolled  the  ele- 
is  throne.  The 
s  great  wigwam 
and  summoned 
m  intense  cold, 
f  the  English  he 
but  will  return 
spense  his  rojal 

vexed  GlooPcap, 
ch  feast  by  the 
jn  the  feast  was 
and  thev  went 
y  saw  them  no 
es  as  they  santj, 
hey  wholly  died 
1  came  to  pass, 
er  were  able  to 
nd  never  again 
shall  return  to 
ore  together  in 
n  his  departure 
n  no  more  until 
!  owls,  even  yet, 
say, in  the  In- 
o  had  been  the 
,  seeking  vainly 
Q  they  find  him 


Ml 


■.»■  ;■ ' 


•  '.  . 


B!::-3. 


THE  BASIN  OF  MINAS 
THE  OLD  ACADIAN  LAND. 


ISKffA 


Hqr^oo 


KSMaia 


Horror,  1^ 


THE  LAND  OF   EVANGELINE.    RouU  22.    107 

22.   The  Land  of  Evangeline. 

This  beautiful  and  deeply  interesting  distriet  is  visited  with  the  greatest 
ease  from  the  academic  town  of  Wolfville  {Central  Ifome  ;  Acadia  ;  Ameri- 
can), which  is  127  M.  fron;  St.  .John  and  «);}  M  tron»  Halifax  (hy  lioute  18), 
on  an  arm  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  farm- 
ing. It  has  1500  inhabitants,  ')  churches,  Acadia  Seminary  (7  teachers  and 
70  pupils),  and  the  Ilorton  Academy  (4  teachers,  (JO  students).  Acadia 

College  is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  6  i)rufessors,  GO  students,  aiul  300 
nhnuni.  The  college  l)uildings  occupy  a  tine  situation  on  a  hill 

which  overlooks  "  those  meadows  on  the  IJasin  (»f  Minas  which  Mr.  Long- 
fellow has  made  more  sadly  poetical  than  any  other  spot  on  the  Western 
Continent."  The  *  view  from  the  belfry  of  the  college  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  this  vicinity,  or  even,  perhaps,  in  the  Maritime  Piovitices.  Far 
across  the  Cornwallis  Valley  to  the  X.  is  the  Xortli  Mt.,  which  terminates, 
15  M.  away  (21  M.  by  ro  d),  in  the  majestic  bluff  of  ('ape  lilomidon, 
dropping  into  the  Basin  of  ^linas.  To  the  N.  K.  is  the  "great  meadow" 
which  gave  name  and  site  to  the  village  of  Grand  Pre.  Steamboats  rtm 
on  the  Basin  of  ]\[inas  in  summer,  connecting  Wolfville  with  the  other 
ports,  and  giving  a  very  delightful  journey  (see  page  101). 

A  good  road  leads  E.  (in  3  M.)  from  Wolfville  to  Loicer  Ilorton,  a  scat- 
tered hamlet  among  the  hills.  By  pass'ng  down  irom  this  jK>int  to  the 
meadows  just  beyond  the  railway-station  of  Grand  Pre,  the  traveller 
reaches  the  site  of  the  ancient  vilhige.  Standing  on  the  ])hitfonn  of  the 
station,  he  sees  a  large  tree  at  the  corner  of  the  field  on  the  left  front. 
Near  that  point  are  the  faint  remains  of  the  foundations  of  the  Acadian 
church.  The  tradition  of  the  country-side  claims  that  the  aged  willow- 
tree  near  by  grows  on  the  site  of  the  shop  of  Basil  the  Blacksmith,  and 
that  cinders  have  been  dug  up  at  its  foot.  The  destruction  efl'ected  by 
the  British  troops  was  complete,  and  there  are  now  no  relics  of  the  an- 
cient settlement,  except  the  gnarled  and  knotty  trees  of  the  orchards,  the 
lines  of  willows  along  the  old  roads,  and  the  sunken  hollows  which  indi- 
cate the  sites  of  former  cellars.  Near  the  shore  is  shown  the  place  where 
the  exiles  were  put  on  shipboard.  A  road  leads  across  the  rich  diked 
marsh  in  2-3  >L  to  Lo7i(/  Island,  a  sli/'ht  elevation  fronting  on  the  Basin 
nf  Minas,  and  on  which  dwells  a  farniii.g  population  of  about  120  persons, 
lo  the  N.  E.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Gaspereaux  Biver,  and  on  the  W.  the 
Cornwallis  River  is  discharged.  The  early  Acadians  reclaimed  these  rich 
meadows  from  the  sweep  of  the  tides  by  building  light  dikes  to  turn  the 
water.  There  were  2,100  acres  of  this  gained  land  in  their  Gran<l  I*r^, 
but  the  successive  advancing  of  other  lines  of  aggression  has  driven  back 
tiie  sea  from  a  nmch  larger  area,  all  of  which  is  very  productive  and  val- 
uable. In  1810  the  broad  meadow  between  Grand  Br^  and  Wolfville  was 
enclosed  bv  new  dikes  and  added  to  the  reclaimed  domain. 


r 


%' 


■i 


:fl 


Iff 


'  £    ■ 

ii  ^ 

1  ! 

108       Route  22. 


GRAND   PRE. 


Noble's  Ma<»fl«chti8ett(i  regiment  was  cantoned  at  Grand  Pr^  in  the  winter  of 
1746-7.  During  a  luavy  Buow-Htonu,  before  dawn  on  Feb.  11,  the  town  wa.s  at- 
tacked  by  340  trenoli  tnH)pH,  arr.inge<i  iu  10  divisions,  and  tomn.unded  by  Couldti 
de  VlJliern.  The  ^entiuils  were  vi^rilaiit, and  gave  the  alariu  aw  soon  as  the  hostile 
coiumnH  were  heen  over  tlie  lotty  Miow-drilts  ;  but  tlio  aswiilaut.s  da.-h(d  in  fearli.-.-lv 
and  8oon  carried  the  strougeft  of  tin-  barrackri.  Col.  NoIjIc  was  pl.-iiu  wliilc  figlitini: 
in  his  hhirt.  134  Americans  were  killed  and  wounded  and  GU  wne  ir:nde  pri.>cr.ris; 
21  of  the  attacking  I'arty  were  killed  and  wounded.  In  the  morning  3i'0  cif  tl.r 
Miussachusett.'^  men  weie  conientrated  in  a  stone  building,  anil  lought  with  niiuh 
bravery,  tlie  combat  biing  waged  from  house  to  hou^e  through  the  ^tircts.  liv 
noon  tljeir  annnunif  ion  wiw  exitemkd,  and  they  Hurrondered  to  the  Froi:ch,  b»  ii  j: 
paroled  and  allowed  to  niardi  out  witii  the  honors  of  war.  A  convivial  dini.er  wu- 
then  enjoyed  by  the  ofllcers  of  the  whilom  hostile  forces,  and  the  An:erican.>.  v»ic 
sent  to  Annapoiis  under  an  Acadian  guard,  while  the  FiTnch  soon  afterward  retiml 
to  lieauba.^hin,  bearing  their  captured  artillery  and  four  stands  of  colors  which  liinl 
been  taken  in  the  battle. 


I" 


>l 


The  shores  of  the  Biusin  of  Mina.s  were  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century 
by  immigrants  from  La  Ilochelle,  Fuintongc,  and  Poitou.  They  soon  erccttd  dikes 
by  which  the  tide  was  kept  off  from  the  neudows,  ui.d  from  these  rich  recluiii  td 
lands  tiiey  gathered  great  crops.  Several  cargoes  of  gniin  were  exported  to  Eortim 
every  year,  and  the  tettlcmcut  scon  became  large  and  prosperous.  The  Indiang 
regarded  these  new  neighbors  with  affection,  and  lived  on  terms  of  perfect  \nwc 
with  them.  During  the  wars  between  Franc c  aiul  Great  Britain,  the  Acadians  wire 
strongly  patriotic,  and  took  up  arn.s  in  the  cauFo  of  tin  ir  native  land.  Intensely 
devoted  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  considering  these  wars  as  in  the  nature 
of  crusades,  they  fought  valiantly  and  well. 

But  when  Nova  Scotia  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain  (in  1713),  their  poMtion 
became  very  awkward  and  painful.  Many  of  them  refused  to  t.ke  the  oath  of  alii'- 
giance,  and  for  others  a  modified  forn.ula*wi:s  frr.n  cd.  The  en. is;  aries  of  the  F'rei eh 
power  at  i.ouisbourg  and  Quel  (c  circulated  an.cng  them  and  n.aintaii:ed  their  loy- 
alty to  Franco  at  a  fever  heat,  while  their  priests  acted  continually  on  the  san.o 
policy,  and  kept  up  the  hostility  to  the  conquciors.  The  British  Provincial  govern- 
ment was  located  at  Annapolis,  and  though  its  Ir.ws  were  n  iid  and  den  ent,  it  could 
not  comn.und  respect  on  account  of  its  physical  weakness.  Under  these  circum- 
stances, hur.drcds  of  the  Acadians  joined  the  French  arn.ies  during  every  war  be- 
tween tlie  two  powers,  and  proved  dangerous  fccn  en,  on  account  of  their  knowledt'c 
of  the  land.  British  settlers  were  i.nwilling  to  locate  among  these  people  on  accoi  iit 
of  their  hostility,  and  the  fairest  lands  of  the  Province  were  thns  held  by  an  alim 
and  hostile  population.  The  great  contiict  between  England  and  France  in  the  New 
World  was  still  in  full  coui-sc,  and  the  latter  power  was  in  possession  of  the  Ci-nadi  s. 
The  majority  of  the  Acadians  were  doubtless  peaceful  and  honest,  occupied  only 
with  their  local  affairs;  but  son.e  of  tlum  were  hostile  and  troublesome,  and  tlic 
anomalous  position  of  these  alien  subjects  was  a  source  of  incessant  danger  to  the 
English  power.  It  was  therefore  detcrn.incd  in  the  council  at  Halifax,  in  1^&5,  that 
they  must  cither  take  an  unconditional  oath  of  allegiance  to  Great  Pritsiin  or  leave 
the  country.  Deputations  were  called  in  from  all  the  French  settlcn  ents,  and  the 
alternatives  were  clearly  fct  forth  before  then  .  Almost  unanimously  they  relu.-ed 
to  take  the  oath,  prefciring  (they  said)  exile  and  confiscaticn  to  such  an  act,  and 
teen.iug  to  regarcl  their  neutrality  of  the  past  45  years  as  having  become  a  vestid 
right.  It  seems  as  if  diplomacy  and  argument  vere  tried  to  their  utn  ost  limit  u|.  i  ii 
these  unyielding  recusants,  and  it  then  became  necessary  for  the  honor  and  safify 
of  the  Province,  to  rcfort  to  sterner  measures.  It  was  resolved  that  the  whole  A(ii- 
diau  people  should  Le  banished  to  the  southern  American  colonics,  and  that  their 
estates  and  buildings,  cattle  and  vessels,  should  be  declared  forfeited  to  the  Crown. 

The  Acadians  were  taken  by  surprise.  A  British  d(  tachu.ent  and  fleet  dcftroyed 
all  the  villages,  farms,  and  churches,  on  the  Chignei  to  Basin  and  the  Petileodiac 
River,  sweeping  up  n  any  prisoners  and  neetingwjth  seme  sharp  fighting.  Moiic- 
ton  destroyed  yiudiac,  Kcmsheg,  and  other  towns  on  the  Gulf  coast ;  Murniy  gath- 
ered up  tile  people  about  Windsor  and  to  the  E. ;  and  Ilandfield  put  the  French 
Annapolitans  on  shipboard,  except  a  few  who  escaped  into  the  woods.  M  inslow 
collected  1,923  persons  at  Grand  Pr6  and  en  larked  them,  and  burned  2S5  houses, 
276  barns,  and  11  mills.  (Winslow  was  a  Massacliusetts  officer,  and  2(  year:  later 
his  own  fannly  was  driven  into  exile  for  liostilitj-  to  America.)  The  people  of  Grand 
Pr(5  were  sent  to  North  Carolina,  Virginia,  and  Maryland. 


GRAND  PR£ 


Route  SS. 


105 


,he  winter  of 
town  wii.s  nt- 
ed  by  Couldii 
us  the  honili' 
d  in  f("a^U^^ly 
\vhile  figlitiiiir 
nUo  pri.'cr.t  is; 
ii>g  3<'<'  of  til' 
ht  with  nnK  h 
c  ntncts.     Ill 
French,  l>«  li  j: 
:inl  dini.or  wu- 
n.ericans  \u  ic 
erward  rrtiuil 
lors  which  hud 


le  17th  century 
1  erect*  d  Uikesi 
ridi  rtcluiii  I'd 
irtod  to  Bofton 
The  Indiiiiis 
if  perfect  luiKc 
!  AcadiiUKs  wire 
ind.  InteuMly 
LS  in  the  nature 

),  their  po^iti{)n 
he  oath  of  alle- 
L's  of  theFrci.ch 
ait:ed  tlicir  lny- 
ly  on  tlie  sun.e 
Dvincial  goverii- 
len.ent,  it  cduld 
r  tlie^e  circun.- 
every  war  li- 
hcir  lir.owlcdec 
o])le  on  accoi  iit 
id  by  an  alun 
ince  in  the  ^l^v 
of  the  ('!.!. iuli  s. 
occupied  only 
'Some,  and  the 
t  danger  to  the 
X,  in  Vtib,  that 
Britain  or  leave 
rents,  and  the 
ly  they  refured 
h  an 'act,  and 
ecome  a  vesttd 
Oft  limit  ujdi 
onor  and  pali  t\ 
tlie  whole  A(  n- 
and  that  their 
lo  the  Crown. 
fleet  destroyed 
the  Pctitcodiac 
:hting.     Monc- 
Murniy  gath- 
lUt  the  French 
Jod^•.     WiuJlow 
rid  2551iouses, 
20  ^  earr  later 
opl'e  of  Grand 


"  WTille  we  Bee  plainly  that  England  could  never  roally  eontrol  thin  Province 
while  they  remained  in  it,  all  our  fe-ellngfl  of  huniunity  are  afleetjil  by  the  removal 

itself,  and  Mtiil  more  by  the  severity  of  the  attendant  eircuniHtaueeM They  were 

the  victims  of  great  error  on  their  own  part,  and  of  deiu.sivo  views  that  false  fHends 
had  instilled  into  their  nunds,  and  the  itnpuist's  of  imtion.il  ambition  and  jealousy 
iiret  ipituted  their  fat4».  It  is,  however,  sonic  eonsolation  to  know  that  very  numy  of 
the  exiles  returned  within  a  few  years  to  their  native  land,  ami  though  not  ri-'stored 
to  their  native  farms,  they  became  an  integral  and  respected  jiortion  of  our  popula- 
tion, displaying,  umler  all  changes,  thow  simple  virtues  that  thi-y  had  inherited,-— 
the  same  modest,  humble,  and  jx'aceable  dis|)osition,  that  had  been  their  early  attrj- 
hutes  ■"    (Murdoch.)    (See  also  Clark,  Chkzzctoook,  and  Tr.madik.) 

In  ITtiO  a  large  colony  of  families  from  ('onnectii-ut,  iu  a  tleet  of  22  vessels  con- 
vosi il  hy  a  nnin-of-war,  arrived  at  (jrand  l*r(3  and  occupied  the  deserted  farms. 
"  they  found  60  ox-carts  and  a«  many  yokes,  which  tlie  unfortunate  French  had 
iisi'd  in  conveying  their  baggage  to  the  vessels  that  earrieil  them  away  from  tho 
rf)vuitry  ;  and  at  the  skirts  of  the  forest  heaps  of  the  bones  of  sheep  and  horned  cat- 
tie,  that,  deserted  by  their  owners,  had  jH'rished  in  wititer  from  the  lack  of  food. 
They  also  met  with  a  few  straggling  t^unilies  of  Acadians  who  had  escaped  frimi  the 
scrutinizing  search  of  the  soldiers  at  the  removal  of  their  countrynu'u,  and  who, 
afrail  of  sharing  tho  same  fate,  hid  not  ventured  to  till  the  land,  or  to  appear  In 
the  o|M»n  country.  They  had  eat<'n  no  bread  for  five  years,  and  had  subsisted  on 
vegetables,  fish,  and  the  more  hardy  j)art  of  the  cattle  that  had  survived  tiie  sever- 
ity of  the  first  winter  of  their  abandonment."    (IIai-iuurton  ) 

"  This  is  the  forest  primeval      The  murmuring  pines  and  the  hemlocks, 
bearded  with  nio.ss,  and  in  garments  green,  indistinct  in  the  twilight, 
Stand  like  Druids  of  eld,  with  voices  sad  and  prophetic, 
Stand  like  harpt^rs  hoar,  witli  beards  that  rest  on  their  bosom?. 
Loud  from  its  rocky  caverns,  the  deep-voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  accents  disconsolate  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest. 

"  This  is  the  forest  primeval;  bir  where  are  the  hearts  that  beneath  it 
Iji-aped  like  the  roe,  when  he  luars  in  the  wootllainl  the  voice  of  the  huntsman? 
Where  is  the  thatch-roofed  village,  tin;  home  of  Aealian  farmers, — 
Men  whose  lives  gli  led  on  like  rivers  that  water  the  woodlands, 
Darkened  by  shadows  of  earth,  but  reflecting  an  image  of  heaven  ? 
Waste  are  those  pleasant  farms,  and  the  farmers  forever  departed ! 
Scattered  like  dust  and  leaves,  when  the  mighty  blasts  of  October 
Seize  them,  and  whirl  them  aloft,  and  sprinkle  them  far  o'er  the  ocean. 
Naught  but  tradition  remains  of  the  beautiful  village  of  Grand  Pr6. 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  the  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minaa, 
Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  (irand  Pre 
b;vy  in  the  fruitful  valley.     Vast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward, 
Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  without  number. 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  niised  with  labor  incessant, 
Shut  out  the  turbulent  tides ;  but  at  eerUun  seasons  tlie  flood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wander  at  will  o'er  the  meadows. 
West  and  south  there  were  fields  of  flax,  and  orchards  and  corn-fields 
Spreading  afar  and  unfenced  o'er  the  plain  ;  and  away  to  the  northward 
Bloniidon  rose,  and  the  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  the  happy  valley,  i^nt  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 
There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian  village. 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  frames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut, 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries. 
Thatched  were  the  roofs,  with  dormer-windows  ;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protecti^d  and  shaded  the  doorway. 
There  in  the  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  the  sunset 
Lighted  the  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys, 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirtles 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distatfs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  go.ssiping  looms,  who^■e  noisy  sluitt'es  within  doors 
Mingled  their  .sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  songs  of  the  maidens 


Mil 


110       Route  a. 


GHAND  PR^ 


Ht 


Solemnly  down  tho  Btrrct  came  the  parlnh  priest,  aiid  thr  rliildreti 
Pauped  in  thoir  play  to  kinn  the  hand  he  extended  to  lil« '^H  th»  ni. 
Reverend  walked  he  an.on^c  them  ;  and  up  rose  matr()n^  mid  maidens, 
Ilnilin)<  h'H  nlow  approacli  with  wonln  of  nlTertionate  welromo. 
Then  came  tlin  liiborcrH  home  from  tlic  field,  and  Kerem  Iv  the  nun  nank 
Down  to  hiH  rest,  and  twilight  prevailrd.     Anon  from  tlir  lielfry 
Softly  the  Angelus  ^oundril,  nnd  over  the  roofR  of  the  villngo 
Columnf  of  pale  blue  FUioke,  like  rlondr)  of  incenpe  arrending, 
Rose  flrom  a  hundii'd  heiirthH,  the  homeH  of  peace  and  contentment. 
ThuH  dwelt  together  in  l«)ve  these  simple  Acndian  farmers,  — 
Dwelt  in  the  love  of  (Jod  nnd  of  mnn.     Alike  wer«»  they  free  (Vom 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  tlie  tyrant,  nnd  envy,  the  vice  of  repuhiics. 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  doors,  nor  liars  to  their  windows  ; 
But  their  dwellings  were  open  as  day  nnd  tho  hearts  of  the  owners  ; 
There  the  richest  wai    u)or,  and  the  iwnrest  lived  in  abundance." 

The  poet  thon  describes  "  the  gentle  KvHiigeUne,  the  pride  of  the  vil- 
lage." 

*'  Fair  was  she  to  behold,  that  maitlcn  of  seventeen  summera, 

Black  were  her  eyes  as  the  berry  tliat  grows  on  the  thorn  by  the  wayside, 
Rlack,  yet  how  softly  they  gleamed  beneath  the  brown  shade  of  her  tresses  I 
Sweet  was  her  br»;i*'*.  a«  the  breath  of  kine  that  fiwd  in  the  meadows. 
When  in  the  harvest  heat  sl.e  bon*  to  the  reapers  at  noontide 
Flagons  of  home-brpwed  ale,  ah  !  fair  in  sootli  was  the  maiden. 
Fairer  was  she  wh^•^(,  on  Sunday  morn,  while  tlie  bell  from  its  turret 
Sprinkled  with  holt  8onnds  the  air,  as  the  priest  with  his  hyssop 
Sprinkles  tlie  congr«'gation,  and  scatters  blessings  upon  them. 
Down  the  long  street  she  passed,  with  lier  cli'ijilet  of  beads  and  her  missn* 
Wearing  her  Norman  cap,  and  her  kirtle  of  blue,  and  the  ear-rings,  — 
Brought  in  the  olden  time  fnuii  France,  and  siMce,  as  an  heirloom, 
Handed  down  from  motlier  to  child,  thrttugh  longgencnitions. 
But  a  celestial  brightness  —  a  more  ethereal  beauty  — 
Shone  on  her  face  and  encircled  her  form,  wlu'o,  after  confession, 
Homeward  serenely  she  walked,  witli  (Jod's  benediction  upon  her. 
When  she  had  jmssed.  It  .•seinned  like  the  ceasing  of  exquisite  music." 

At\er  SI  heaiitiful  description  of  the  peaceful  social  life  of  the  Acadisiiis, 

and  the  lietrothal  of  Evangeline,  tho  poet  tells  of  the  arrival  of  the  Knglish 

fleet,  the  convocation  of  the  people,  the  royal  mandate,  tho  destruction  of 

Grand  Pr^,  and  the  weary  exile  of  the  villagers. 

"  So  passed  the  morning  away.     And  lo  !  with  a  summons  sonorous 
Sounde«i  the  bell  fVom  its  tower,  nnd  over  the  meadow  a  drum  beat. 
Throngi'd  erelong  was  the  church  with  men.     Without,  in  the  churchyard. 
Waited  the  women.     They  stoo<i  by  the  graves,  and  hung  on  the  headstones 
<.        Garlands  of  autumn-leaves  and  evergreens  fresh  from  tlie  forest. 

Then  came  the  guard  from  the  ships,  and  marching  proudly  among  them 

EntertHi  the  sjicred  |>ortal.     \Vith  loud  and  di.>-sonant  clangor 

Echoed  the  sound  of  their  bnizeii  drums  from  ceiling  and  casement, — 

Echwd  a  moment  only,  and  slowly  the  ponderous  portal 

Closed,  and  in  silence  tlie  crowd  awaited  the  will  of  the  soldiers. 

Then  uprose  their  commander,  and  spake  from  the  steps  of  the  altar, 

Holding  aloft  in  liis  hands,  with  its  seals,  the  royal  coiiimission. 

'  Yj  are  convened  this  day,*  he  said,  '  by  his  Majesty's  orders. 

Clement  and  kind  lias  he  been  ;  but  how  have  you  answered  his  kindness, 

liet  your  own  luvirts  reply  I     To  my  natural  make  and  my  temper 

Painful  the  task  is  I  do,  which  to  you  T  know  must  Im'  grievons. 

Yet  must  I  bow  and  obey,  and  ileliver  the  will  of  our  monarch  ; 

Namely,  that  all  your  lands,  and  dwellings,  and  cattl<'  of  all  kinds 

Forfeited  be  to  the  crown  ;  and  that  you  yourselves  from  this  province 

Be  transported  to  other  lands.     Ood  grant  you  may  dwell  there 

Ever  as  fiiithful  subjects,  a  happy  n\ni  peaceable  pe»)ple  I 

Prisoners  now  I  declare  you  ;  for  such  Is  his  Mjyesty's  pleasure.' 


GRAND  PRfi. 


Route  22.       Ill 


itle  of  the  \  il 


There  dlnonlor  prevallrd,  and  tho  tumult  and  ^tlr  of  embarking. 

BuHily  piled  the  fr<*lf<lite<l  boats  ;  and  In  the  ronfufion 

Wives  were  torn  from  tlieir  hnRbnndM,nnil  niothern,  t^o  lf.f4',  saw  their  children 

Left  on  the  land,  extending  their  urniB,  with  wil(le(<t  entreiitiep. 

8udilenly  rone  froni  the  Houth  a  liKht,  as  In  autumn  the  blood-rod 

Moon  rliinbs  the  eryntiil  whJIh  of  heaven,  and  o'er  the  hori/on 

Titaii-iilte  stretcheM  its  hundred  handr*  upon  mountain  and  meadow, 

Seizing  the  roeks  and  the  rivers,  and  I'iiiiiK  hu^e  shadows  to;fether. 

Untader  and  ever  broader  it  gleamed  on  tlie  r«M»fs  of  tlie  village, 

Oleaiiied  on  the  sky  and  the  s<>u,  and  the  ships  tliat  lay  in  the  roadstead. 

ColiniitiH  of  shiniuK  smoke  uprose,  and  Hashes  of  (lame  wen^ 

Thrust  through  their  folds  and  withdrawn,  like  the  (luiverin^  hands  of  a  martyr. 

Then  as  the  wind  seized  th<>  ^leeds  and  the  luirninK  tliutrh,  and  uplifting, 

Whirled  them  aloft,  through  the  air,  at  onee  from  a  hundred  house-topH 

Started  the  sheeted  smoke,  with  iinMhuH  of  flame  intermingled. 

Many  a  weary  year  had  passed  slnee  the  burning  of  Orand  Pr6, 

When  on  the  filling  tid(^  Mn;  fn-lght^i-d  vessels  depart<Hl, 

liearing  a  nation,  with  all  its  household  go  Is,  iiitf*  exile, 

Kxile  without  an  end.  and  without  an  example  In  story. 

I'ar  asiiiider,  on  separate  eoasts,  the  Aeadians  landed  ; 

Seatt4'red  were  they,  like  flakes  of  snow,  when  the  wind  from  the  northeast 

Strikes  aslant  through  the  fogs  that  darken  the  Itanks  of  Newfoundland. 

Friendless,  homeless,  hopeless,  they  wandered  from  elty  to  rity. 

From  the  cold  lakes  of  tiie  North  to  sultry  S«)tithern  savannas, — 

From  the  l)leak  shores  of  the  sea  to  tlx'  lands  when'  the  Father  of  Waters 

Seizes  the  hills  in  his  hands,  and  drags  them  down  to  tin*  oi-ean. 

Deep  ill  their  sands  to  t>ury  the  scattered  Ikv.h'S  of  the  mammoth. 

Friends  they  sought  an<l  lu)mes  ;  and  many,  despairing,  heart-broken, 

Asked  of  the  earth  but  a  grave,  and  no  longer  a  friend  or  a  fireside. 

Written  their  history  stAuds  on  tablets  of  stone  In  the  ehurchyards  " 

LoNOKKi.i.ow's  l<>nne;rline. 

•'  Much  as  we  may  admire  the  various  bays  and  lakes,  the  Inlets,  promontories, 
and  straits,  the  mountiins  and  wooillands  of  this  rarely  visited  corner  of  erejition, — 
anil,  comp;ir(M|  witli  it,  we  can  hoast  of  no  coast  scenery  so  b(>autiful,  —  the  valley  of 
(Jnind  I'll;  transcends  all  tlu^  rest,  in  the  Province.  Only  our  valley  of  Wyouiing, 
as  an  inlind  pictuiv,  may  match  it,  both  in  beauty  and  tradition.  One  had  its  (Jer- 
trmlc,  the  other  its  Evangeline  "     (Co/.zkns  ) 

"  bc.voiid  is  a  lofty  and  extended  chain  of  hills,  pn'senting  avast  chasm,  appar- 
ently hinstont  by  the  w  iters  of  ID  rivers  thatempty  Into  the  Uisin  of  Minas,  and  here 
e.M'Mi>e  into  the  Hay  of  Fundy.  The  variety  and  extent  of  this  pn  sisjct,  the  beauti- 
ful verdant  v.ile  of  the  (laspereaux  ;  the  ext<mded  township  of  llorton  lntersper;-ed 
with  groves  of  wood  and  cultured  fields,  and  tho  cloud-capped  sununit  of  the  lofty 
cape  that  terminat(>H  the  chain  (d'  the  North  Mt.,  form  an  Jis.semblage  of  obj«!ct8 
rarely  uniteil  with  so  striking  an  effect." 

"  It  would  he  ditflcult  to  point  out  another  landscap<^  at  all  e«|ual  to  that  which  l-t 
bi'iicld  from  the  hill  that  «)verlooks  the;  site  of  tho  ancient  village  of  Minas.  Ou 
either  haml  ext<>iid  undulating  hills  richly  cultivated,  and  Intermingled  with  farm- 
hmises  and  orchards.  From  the  base  of  these  highland^  extend  the  alluvial  metul- 
(iws  which  add  so  nm<'h  to  the  appe.iniTice  and  wejtlth  of  Hortcm.  The  (Jmnd 
I'lMirie  is  skirti-d  by  Boot  and  Long  Islands,  whose  fertile  and  well-tilled  fields  are 
>h('lt»'red  froiii  the  north  by  evcrgveen  forests  of  dark  foliage.  Beyond  are  the  wide 
(•\|):iii<e  of  waters  of  the  Basin  of  .Minus,  the  Iowjt  part  of  ''ornwallis,  and  the  isU's 
;in  I  Mile  higiilands  of  the  oppositij  shores.  The  chirm  of  tliis  pr»»xpeet  con.-lsti  In 
t,i('  unusual  combination  of  hill,  dale,  woods,  and  cultivated  fields;  in  the  calm 
heauty  ofiigricultiiral  scenery  :  and  In  the  romantic  wildness  id"  t  le  distant  forests. 
During  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  immen.se  herds  of  <  att  e  are  seen  quietly 
cropping  tho  herbage  of  tho  O  rand  Prairie;  while  nu.nerous  vessels  piving  on  tho 
Uasin  convey  a  pleasing  evldeuce  of  the  prosperity  aud  i-esourcus  of  tliia  fertile  dl«- 
trict."    (Haliburton.) 


ri2     Route  23, 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


|H 


23.    Anii'jpDlii  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth. 

The  railway  from  Annapolis  to  Bear  River  and  Digby  was  opened  in  1891,  contin. 
uing  the  older  i.-.ilw  ly  route  from  Di,'bv  to  Yarmouth.  The  runuiug  of  local  steam, 
boats  on  Annapolis  Basin  is  thus  rendered  uncertain. 

From  St.  John  or  Halifax  to  Aunapohs  Royal,  see  Route  18. 

Tile  stage-routes  from  Digby  to  Clare  and  to  West  l^ort  give  charming  views  of  the 
marine  scenery  of  St,  Mary's  Bay.  The  Western-Counties  Ituiuvay  lies  iibout  3  M 
from  the  high^'n.y,  with  mail-service  from  its  stations  to  the  villages  along  the  loast. 

Stations.  —  Digby  to  Jordantown,  4  M.  ;  Bloomflcld,  9;  North  R*.ige,  11; 
Plympton,U:  Port  Gilbert,  16  :  Weymouth,  22;  Belliveau.  26;  Church  Point,  30 ; 
Little  Brook.  32;  Saulnierville,  34;  Metcghan,  37;  Hcctanooga,  46 ;  Norwood,  49; 
Brazil,  64  :  Green  Cove,  67  ;  Ohio,  60  ;  Hebron,  62  ;  Yarmouth,  67. 

We  add  also  the  distances  on  the  old  highway. 

Itinerary.  —  Annapolis  Royal;  Clemen tsport,  8.\  M.  ;  Victoria  Bridge,  13.i; 
Smith's  Cove,  16;  Digby,  20.\  ;  St.  Mary's  Bay,  27i  ; 'Wevmouth  Road,  32;  Wey- 
mouth  Bridge,  38;  Belliveau  Cove,  43;  Clare,  50  ;  Meteghan  Cove,  59;  Cheticamp, 
63;  Bear  River,  74  ;  Yarmouth  Lakes,  81  ;  Yarmouth,  IK). 

The  railway  lies  farther  inland  than  the  highway,  traversing  a  com- 
paratively new  country,  where  beautiful  lakes  and  ponds  abound  on  every 
side.  The  fare  from  Yarmouth  to  Weymouth  is  ^\M\  to  Digby,  $2.4r); 
to  Annapolis,  $3;  to  St.  J:)hn,  .f^a.rjO:  to  Halifax,  .'ifG.SO;  to  Boston  (lim- 
ited), $7.    Annapolis  Royal  to  Digby,  see  pages  84,  85  (reversed). 

On  leaving  Digby  the  line  runs  S.  W.,  traversing  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  MarshalUown,  and  crosses  the  isthmus  between  the  An- 
napolis Basin  and  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  distance  of  about  7  M.  Thence- 
forward, for  over  30  M.,  the  highway  lies  near  tlie  beautiful  *St.  Mary's 
Bay,  which  is  about  35  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  from  3  to  10  M.  On  tlio 
opposite  shore  are  the  highlands  of  Digby  Neck  (see  Route  24),  a  continu- 
ation of  the  North  Mt.  range.  On  this  shore  a  wide  belt  of  level  land  liiis 
been  left  between  the  receding  range  of  the  South  Mt.  (or  Blue  Mts.)  and 
the  bay,  and  the  water-front  is  occupied  by  numerous  farms. 

In  St.  Mary's  Bay  the  fleet  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  lay  for  two  weeks,  in  16)4,  while 
the  shores  were  being  explored  by  boat's  crews.  The  mariners  were  greatly  ngoired 
in  finding  what  they  supposed  to  be  valuable  dei)osit»  of  iron  and  silver.  The 
Parisian  priet't  Aubry  was  lost  on  one  of  the?e  excursions,  and  roamed  through  the 
woods  for  16  days,  eating  nothing  but  berries,  until  another  vessel  took  him  off. 
The  name  Eaie  de  Hie.  Marie  was  given  by  Chanjplain. 

Brighton  is  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  jjleasant  agricultural  villiitre 
with  a  small  inn.  The  hamlets  of  Barton  (or  Si)echt's  Cove)  and  Gilbert's 
Cove  are  soon  passed,  and  the  stage  enters  the  pretty  village  of  Wtymonth 
(two  inns),  a  seaport  which  builds  some  handsome  vessels,  and  has  a  snuj;; 
little  trade  with  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sissii)()o  Kiver,  on  whose  opposite  sli(n*e  is  the  Acadian  hamlet  of 
New  Ediiibnrtfli.  Across  St.  Mary's  liny  is  the  inantiuie  vilhige  of  Sandy 
Cove.     Steamers  run  weekly  from  V^'e^•lnolltll  ;»»St  .lohn  and  to  Yarmouth. 

The  line  now  ascends  the  r.  bunk  of  the  Sissiboo  River  to  Weyuwutli 
Bridge  (.Jones's  Hotel),  a  maritime  village  of  about  the  same  size  as  Wev- 
mouth. It  is  4  M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  2-3  M.  to  the  K. 
are  the  Sissiboo  Falls.  The  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Ii;iy  is  rej^ained  at  Jidli- 
veau  Cove  (small  inn),  an  Acadian  hamlet  chictiy  devoted  to  agriculture 


CLARE. 


noiUe  23.      113 


and  shipbuilding.  From  this  point  down  to  Beaver  K.ver,  and  beyond 
throut'h  the  Tusket  and  Pnbnico  regions,  the  shore  is  occupied  by  a  range 
of  hamlets  which  are  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  old  Acadian- 
French. 

The  Clare  Settlements  were  founded  about  1763  by  the  descendants  of  the 
Aca'lians  who  had  been  exiled  to  New  England.  After  the  conquest  of  Canada  these 
unfortunate  wanderers  were  suffered  to  return  to  Nova  Scotia,  but  they  found  their 
former  domains  about  the  Basin  of  Minas  already  occupied  by  the  New-Englanders. 
So  they  removed  to  the  less  fertile  but  still  pleasant  shores  of  Clare,  and  founded  new 
homes  alternating  their  farm  labors  with  fishing- voyages  on  St.  Mary's  Bay  or  the 
outer  sea.  This  little  counnonwealth  of  4  -  5,iKX)  people  Wivs  for  many  years  governed 
and  directed  by  *'  the  amiable  and  venerated  Abbe  Segoigne,"a  patrician  priest  who 
had  tied  from  France  during  the  Revolution  of  1793.  His  power  and  influence  were 
unlimited,  and  were  exerted  only  for  the  peace  and  well-being  of  his  people.  Under 
this  benign  guidance  the  colony  flourished  amain  ;  new  hamlets  arose  along  the 
shores  of  the  beautiful  bay  ;  and  an  Acadian  village  was  founded  in  the  oak -groves 
of  Tusket.  M.  Segoigne  also  conciliated  the  Micmacs,  learned  their  language,  and 
was  highly  venerated  by  all  their  tribe. 

*'  When  the  traveller  enters  Clare,  the  houses,  the  household  utensils,  the  foreign 
language,  and  the  uniform  costume  of  the  inhabitants  excite  his  surprise  ;  because 
no  parish  of  Nova  Scotia  has  such  a  distinctive  character.  The  Acadiaus  are  far 
behind  their  neighbors  in  modjs  of  agriculture  :  they  show  a  great  reluctance  to 
enter  the  forest,  and  in  place  of  advancing  upon  the  highlands,  they  subdivide  their 
lands  along  the  shore  and  keep  thoir  children  about  them.  They  preserve  their 
language  and  customs  with  a  singular  tenacity,  and  though  commerce  places  them 
in  constant  communication  with  the  English,  they  never  contract  marriage  with 
them,  nor  adopt  their  manners,  nor  dwell  in  their  vllliges.  This  conduct  is  not  due 
to  dislike  of  the  English  government ;  it  must  be  attributed  rather  toancient  usage, 
to  the  national  character,  and  to  their  systems  of  edn  Mon.  But  if  they  are  infe- 
rior to  the  English  colonists  in  the  arts  which  strcngtli  and  extend  the  influence 
of  society,  they  can  proudly  challenire  comp-irison  in  their  social  and  domestic  vir- 
tues. Without  ambition,  living  with  frug.ility,  they  regulate  their  life  according  to 
their  means;  devoted  to  their  ancient  worship,  they  are  not  divided  by  religious 
discord  ;  in  fine,  contented  with  tlieir  lot  and  moralin  their  habits  of  life,  they  en- 
joy perhaps  as  much  of  happiness  and  goodness  as  is  possible  in  the  frailty  of  humaa 
nature."    (IIaliburton.) 

"  Still  stands  the  forest  primeval ;  but  under  the  shade  of  its  branches 
Dwells  another  race,  with  other  customs  and  language. 
Only  along  the  shore  of  the  mournful  and  misty  Atlantic 
Linger  a  few  Acadian  peasants,  whose  fathers  from  exile 
Wandered  back  to  their  native  lau'l  to  die  in  its  bosom. 
In  the  fisherman's  cot  the  wheel  and  the  loom  arc  still  busy  ; 
Maidens  still  wear  their  Norman  caps  and  their  kirtles  of  homespun, 
And  by  the  evening  fire  re[  eat  Evangeline's  story, 
While  from  its  rocky  caverns  the  deep- voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  iu  accents  dis<-onsolate  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest." 

Longfellow's  Evangflinf. 

The  road  nins  S.  W.  from  Belliveau  Cove  to  Grosses  Coques  (300  inhabi- 
tants) and  Port  Acadic,  Clare,  and  Saulnierville,  a  line  of  hamlets  whose 
inhabitants  are  engaged  in  farming  and  the  fisheries.  A  road  runs  7  M. 
K.  to  New  Tusket,  an  Anglo-Acadian  village  in  the  interior,  near  the 
isliind-studded  Lake  Wentworth.  Meter/han  (Sheehan's  Hotel)  is  a  bay- 
siile  village  of  700  inhabitants,  nijarly  all  of  whom  are  Acadians  and  farm- 
ers. There  is  a  large  church  here,  and  half  a-dozen  siures  lor  country 
trade  among  the  nci^liburiug  farmers.  Meteghau  is  the  last  village  on 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  and  the  road  now  turns  to  the  S.  and  passes  the  inland 


w 


u 


i" 


114       Route  gS. 


YARMOUTH. 


hamlet  of  Cheticamp.  Cape  Cove  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  is  finely 
situated  on  a  headland  which  faces  the  Atlantic.  The  line  leaves  tlie 
vicinity  of  the  sea  and  strikes  inland  through  a  region  of  forests  and  lakes; 
reaching  Yarmouth  about  13  M.  S.  of  Beaver  IJivcr. 

Yarmouth  (Hotel  Lome;  Yarmouth ;  Queen)  is  a  wealthy  and  prosperous 
seaport  on  the  S.  W.  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is  situated  on  a  narrow 
harbor  3  M.  from  the  Atlantic.  It  has  6,280  inhabitants,  withlOchurclios, 
3  banks,  4  local  marine-insurance  companies,  and  semi-weekly  and 
weekly  newspapers.  It  has  a  public  library  and  a  small  museum  of  nat- 
ural history.  The  schools  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  Province,  and 
occupy  conspicuous  buildings  on  the  ridge  back  of  the  town.  The  Court- 
House  is  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town ;  near  which  is  the  spacious  Baptist 
church,  built  in  Novanglian  arciiitecture.  The  Episco  \\  church  is  a  now 
building,  and  is  one  of  tiie  best  in  Nova  Scotia.  1  M.  out  is  a  rural  ceme- 
tery of  40  acres.  Yarmouth  is  built  along  a  line  of  low  rocky  heights, 
over  a  harbor  which  is  nearly  drained  at  low  tide.  It  receives  a  goodly 
number  of  summer  visitors,  most  of  whom  pass  into  the  Tusket  Lakes  or 
along  the  coast  to  the  E.,  in  search  of  sport. 

Yarmouth  has  been  called  the  uios*^  American  of  all  the  Provincial  towns,  and  is 
endowed  with  the  energy  and  perfinacity  of  New  England.  Though  occupyint?  a 
remote  pit  *ation  on  itu  iuuiffcreat  harbor,  with  a  barren  and  incapable  back  countrv, 
this  town  has  risen  to  opulence  and  distinction  by  the  indonii'able  industry  of  its 
citizens.  lu  17G1  the  shipping  of  the  country  was  confiiied  to  one  25-ton  fishing-boat; 
in  1884  it  amounted  to  over  300  vessels,  measuring  125,000  tons,  and  is  now  far  in 
advance  even  of  that  figure.  It  is  claimed  that  Yarmouth,  for  her  population,  is 
the  largest  ship-owning  port  in  the  world  In  addition  to  these  great  conmiercial 
fleets,  the  town  has  established  a  steamship-line  to  St.  John  and  Boston,  and  is 
building,  almost  alone,  the  Western-Counties  Railway  to  Annapolis.  It  is  expocti-d 
that  great  benefit  will  accrue  from  the  timber-distric  t<<  which  will  be  opened  by  this 
new  line  of  travel.  "  Yarmouth's  financial  success  is  due  largely  to  the  practical 
judgment  and  sagacity  of  her  mariners.  She  has  reared  an  army  of  shipmasters  of 
whom  any  country  might  be  proud,"'  and  it  is  clain:td  that  a  large  proportion  of 
the  Cape-Ann  fiflhlng-<>aptains  are  natives  of  this  country.  On  the  adjacent  coast, 
and  within  12  M.  of  Yarmouth,  are  the  marine  hamlots  of  Jegoggin,  Sandfurd 
(Cranberry  Head),  Arcadia,  Ilebmn,  Hartford,  Kelley's  Cove,  Jebcigue,  Darling's 
Lake  (Short  Beach),  and  Deerfield.  These  settlements  have  over  6,000  inhabitants 
in  the  aggregate.  The  coast  was  occupied  by  the  French  during  the  17th  century, 
but  was  afterwards  abandoned.  About  the  middle  of  the  last  century  these  de- 
serted shores  were  tiken  possession  of  by  colonies  of  fishermen  from  Massjichu.«ctts 
and  Connecticut,  who  wished  to  be  nearer  their  fishing-grounds  ;  and  the  pn'sent 
population  is  descended  from  these  hardy  men  and  the  Loyalists  of  1783.  The  an- 
cient Indian  name  of  Yarmouth  was  Keespoogwitk,  which  means  "  Land's  End.'' 

The  steel  steamships  Yarmouth  and  Boston  ply  between  Yarmouth  and  Boston, 
leaving  Yarmouth  every  \Vednes<lay  and  Saturday  afternoon ; 

and  having  Lewis  VVliarf,  Boston,  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  at  10 

A   M.  Time  of  vo\  age,  17  hours  ;  fare,  $5  (return 

ticket,  $8). 

The  steamboat  for  Bnrrington,  Shelburne,  Lockeport,  Liverpool,  Lunenburg,  and 
Halifax  leaves  Yarmouth  early  I'hursday  mornings,  starting  back  on  Monday  evt'ii- 
ings.  A  steamer  runs  fmm  Yarmouth  to  Westport  and  St.  John  every  Monda\  and 
Thursday  at  4  p.  M.,  leaving  to  return  Tuesday  and  Friday. 

Divison's  coaches  leave  every  \Vediie.->day  and  Saturday  for  Argyle,  Barriugtoa, 
and  Shelburne. 

Yarmouth  ha-s  many  handsome  i-esldences  and  shops,  and  manufactories  of  iron 
goods,  machinery,  steam-engines,  yachts,  yarns,  woollen  cloths,  etc.  It  is  the  second 
town  in  the  Dominion  lb.- registered  tonnage. 


le,  Barriugton, 


TUSKET  LAKES.  Route  23. 


The   Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago. 


115 


The  township  of  Yarmouth  contains  80  lakes,  and  to  a  bird  flylnjir  overhead  it 
must  seem  like  a  patchwork  of  blue  and  green,  in  which  the  blue  predominates. 
They  are  nearly  all  connected  with  the  Tusket  Kiver,  and  are  generally  small,  very 
irregular,  and  surrounded  by  young  forests.  They  rarely  attain  the  width  of  1  M., 
and  are  strung  along  the  course  of  the  river  and  its  tribufciries,  joined  by  narrow 
aisles  of  water,  and  breaking  off  into  bays  which  the  unguided  voyager  would  often 
ascend  in  mistake  for  the  main  channel  In  the  lower  lakes,  where  the  tide  flows, 
near  Argyle  Bay,  are  proflUible  eel-fisheries.  The  remoter  waters,  towards  the  Blue 
Mts.,  afford  good  trout-fishing. 

The  westerly  line  of  lakes  are  visited  from  Yarmouth  by  riding  5  M.  out 
on  the  Digby  road  and  then  turning  off  to  Dterjield,  near  the  Salmon-River 
Lakes  or  passing  over  to  the  settlement  at  Lake  George  (12-14  M.  from 
Yarmouth),  which  is  li  M.  wide  and  3-4  M.  long,  and  is  the  largest  lake  in 
the  township.    A  little  farther  N.  is  the  Acadian  settlement  at  Cedar  Lake. 

The  best  route  for  the  sportsman  is  to  follow  the  Barrington  telegraph- 
road  10  M.  N.  E.  to  Tnsket  {American  House),  a  prosperous  shipbuilding 
village,  with  three  churches,  near  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the  Tus- 
ket River.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  picturesque,  its  chief  feature 
being  the  man)'  green  islands  off  the  shores;  and  the  river  has  been  famous 
for  fisheries  of  salmon  and  gaspereaux,  now  impaired  by  the  lumber-mills 
above.  From  this  point  a  chain  of  lakes  ascends  to  the  N.  for  20  M.,  in- 
cluding the  central  group  of  the  Tuskets,  and  terminating  at  the  island- 
strewn  Lake  Wentworth.  The  best  place  is  found  by  following  the  road 
which  runs  N.  E.  15-  18  M.,  between  Vaughan  Lake  and  Butler's  Liake, 
and  by  many  lesser  ponds,  to  the  remote  settlement  of  X'eywpi  (small  hotel ), 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  central  and  western  groups.  To  the  N.  and  E. 
of  this  point  are  the  trackless  forests  and  savage  ridges  of  the  Blue  Mts., 
and  the  hunter  can  traverse  these  wilds  for  40  M.  to  the  N.  E.  (to  the  Liv- 
erpool Lakes)  or  for  30  M.  to  the  S.  E  (to  the  Shelburne  settlements), 
without  meeting  any  permanent  evidences  of  civilization. 

The  ancient  Indian  tradition  tells  that  squirrels  were  once  very  numerous  in  this 
region,  and  grew  to  an  enormous  size,  endangering  the  lives  of  men.  But  the  Qreat 
Spirit  once  appeared  to  a  blameless  patriarch  of  the  Micmacs,  and  offered  to  reward 
his  virtue  by  granting  his  utmost  desire  After  long  meditation  the  chief  asked  the 
Divine  Visitor  to  bless  the  land  by  taking  the  power  from  the  mighty  squirrels,  upon 
which  the  mandate  was  issued  and  the  draaded  animals  shrank  to  their  present  in- 
sit^nitioant  size.  And  hence  it  is  known  that  ever  since  that  day  the  squirrel  has 
been  querulous  at  the  sight  of  man. 


S.  of  Tusket  village  are  the  beautiful  groups  of  the  Tusket  Isles,  stud- 
ding,' the  waters  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  Abiiptic  Harbor.  Like  most  other 
colkc'tions  of  islands  on  this  continent,  they  are  popularly  supposed  to  be 
IIOS  in  number,  though  tney  do  not  claim  to  possess  an  intercalary  islet 
like  that  on  Lake  George  (New  York),  which  appears  only  every  fourth 
year.  The  Tuskets  vary  in  size  from  Morris  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long, 
down  to  the  smallest  tuft-crowned  rocks,  and  afford  a  great  diversity  of 


1 1 


>1 


v/l 


i: 


,  f" 


116     Route  ^l 


DIGHY    xN'ECK. 


soenerv.  The  outer  friiif^e  of  the  airhipelttgo  is  threaded  Ity  the  Halifax 
aiul  Yarmouth  ftteanisiii|)  (see  page  Vlb). 

"The  fceiu'ty  of  ArgNlo  Uivy  1h  oxtri'iiicly  beautiful  «)f  Its  kind;    lunuuuTiililo 

!»lan»lrt  lUitl  ii«'i'iiu>nliis  cnrloM'  \\w  watiT  in  ovcry  diuTtioii t  oltngi'H  iiiul  oiil 

tiv.ilod  'iiind  bn'.dv  tiu'  iiiii(*.-i's  ut  Imvut.  uiul  I  ho  iiiiisi.x  nf  siiiiiil  ilr^liiiig-vcHK-lH  jMip. 
ing  up  t'n>ui  ov<>ry  little  «ov«>  ittiost  Miu  iiiiiitiplifd  r«'Si>iiri'<>H  wliicli  iNiituru  Iium  pni- 
vi.il <l  lv»i'  »1>«'  sujipiy  ot'tlu?  iiilmliituiits  "     (fvi-r.  Moou.^on.) 

Among  tlu'so  ii.nrow  pa.s.nos  liuiitiri-ils  of  Aftidiiui.s  tooli  jvfugtf  during  Mir  pcrKoru- 
tious  of  IToH  tiU.  A  IJritish  trigntf  wax  wnt  down  to  liiint  tlivni  out,  liut  oiu-  of  Ikt 
bout.-'  t  ivws  \va.>*  tlcMinnod  l»\  tlw  fugitives  among  tin-  isiandn,  and  tliey  wore  not 
Ji>iodged.  'riK'n-  are  now  two  or  tiueo  liuuilets  of  At  iidiann  in  tlie  region  of  tlie 
upi>er  lakes. 

Lttko  <J«M»rK*'  siippliew  Yarnioutli  witli  water  (.11  M.  distant ;  elevation,  105  ft  ). 
It.^  groite.st  lengtn  i.>*  V  .M.,  and  bnadlii  2.^.  I'lie  water  i.s  uf  tlie  pure.st  quality,  and 
RM  liio  I  die  i.s  fed  by  subterranean  spiing.s  tlie.><upply  U  inexbaustible. 

file  interior  t)f  Yarnioutli,  t^helburne,  and  Queen's  i'ountieH  is  the  most  fainoiiH 
region  in  tho  I'roviiiee  lor  nnxwediuntiiig,  ai.<l  liunters  from  the  I'ruvlnees,  tlio 
tinted  rotates,  and  lOngland  annually  engage  in  tills  sport  during  the  oikmi  si-a.Hon 
ai'.d  are  generally  n'warded  by  splendid  sneeess.  'I'lie  "  ojU'U  Heasoii "'  tor  moose- 
hunting  Is  fiHMii  Sept.  If)  l«)  .Ian.  31.  The  "  open  season  "  for  salinon-takiiig  is  from 
Mandi  1  to  Aug.  1  ;  and  tiie  '  open  seas«)n  ''  l»)r  slmoting  grouse  or  partridge  is  lioui 
Got.  1  to  .Ian.  1.  These  are  sfcitutory  provisions,  the  vi«>latioii  of  which  ineurH  lineH 
and  penalties. 

The  lakes  and  streams  of  Yarnioutli  t'ouiity  are  easy  of  iiet-ess  tn)  the  tourist,  who 
CAU  here  enjoy  at  eoniparaiively  triHing  expense  a  natural  Sportsman's  I'aradi.se. 
Their  trout  and  salmon  tlsheries  are  among  the  most  famous  tu  Nova  ijcotia,  and 
huudrods  of  Americaus  have  yearly  visited  this  rugtou. 

21   Digby  Neck. 

StH  ices  leave  Digby  at  4  iv  M  daily,  remaining  at  Sandy  Cove  overnight,  and 
reaching  West  Tort  (40  M.)  at  11am 

Distances.  —  I>igby  to  Hossway,  H',  M. ;  Wat»>rford,  12;  Ontn'vllle,  16;  Lak«»- 
Blde,  17;  S«iudy  Cove,  21);  Little  River,  20;  Petite  Passage,  8t);  Free  Port;  West 
Port,  40. 

The  8t!i^e  runs  S.  W.  from  Highy,  leaving  the  setticments  of  Marshall- 
town  ami  Brighton  on  the  1.,  across  the  Smelt  River.  The  first  hamlet 
re.iched  is  Jiossway,  whence  a  roatl  crosses  to  (inlliver's  Cove  on  the  Bay 
of  Ftuuly.  For  over  20  M.  the  road  descends  the  remarkable  peninsula 
of  nigby  Neck,  whoso  average  width,  from  bay  to  bay,  is  about  li  M. 
On  the  I.  is  the  continuous  range  of  dark  hilla  which  mtirks  the  W.  end 
of  the  North  Mt.  range,  where  it  is  sijikhig  towards  the  sea.  Among  these 
hills  are  found  tine  specimens  of  stgate  and  jasper,  juid  the  views  from  their 
summits  (when  not  hidden  by  trees)  reveal  broad  and  brilliant  stretches 
of  blue  water  on  either  side.  Fogs  are,  however,  very  prevalent  here,  and 
are  Ux'ally  snpjH>sed  to  be  rather  healthy  than  otherwise.  On  the  1.  of  tlio 
road  are  the  broatl  waters  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  fur  beyond  which  are  the 
k)w  and  rugged  Blue  Mts. 

Satuly  Cove  (small  inn)  is  the  metropolis  of  Digby  Neck,  and  has  400 
inlnibitants  and  two  churches.  Its  people  live  by  farming  and  fishing, 
and  8upi)ort  a  fortnightly  packet-boat  to  St.  John,  N.  B.  4  M.  S.  E., 
acroj«s  St.  Mary's  Bay,  is  the  port  of  NVeymouth  (see  page  112).  Beyond 
Little  River  village  the  stage  crosses  the  ridge,  and  the  passenger  passes 


the  Halifax 


;    innuiu<>riilil<> 
ttnK<*H  tllKt  oul 
ig-Vt'HwlH  prc|). 
<laturu  huM  (iro- 

ig  tlir  pcrHi'cu- 

but  *)ii(>  of  |i)>r 

tlH'y  wor«  not 

•  region  of  tliu 

vatJon ,  105  ft  ). 
>st  qiialit)',  aiiti 

i(!  iiioHt  raiiioiiN 
I'rovincoH,  tliu 
tho  o^Km  wasoii 
111  "  lor  iiioose- 
i-takiiiK  \s  fniiii 
irtritlgo  is  tioiu 
icli  iiiourH  iiiK'H 

lu(  tourist,  who 
iiaii'H  I'aradisu. 
ova  Scotia,  and 


over  night,  and 

'vlUe,  16;  Lak«i- 
'rev  Port;  West 

of  MarshiiU- 
first  hamlet 

V6  on  the  Bay 
lo  peninsula 
about  li  M. 

18  the  W.  011(1 
Among  these 
\V8  from  their 
ant  stretclies 
ent  here,  and 
n  the  1.  of  the 
hich  arc  the 


NOVA-SCOTIA  COAST. 


Route  i5. 


117 


t) 


and  has  400 

and  fishnig, 

4  M.  S.  K., 

12).     Beyond 

lenger  passes 


tlie  Petite  Pnnnafje,  which  soparntcR  Digl)y  Neck  from  I^ong  Island.  This 
strait  is  qnito  deep  and  1  M.  wide,  and  has  a  red-arid-white  flashing?  lij?ht 
nil  its  N.  W.  point  (Hoar's  Head).  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  passaj^o 
is  a  village  of  3SK)  iiilial)itant3  (mostly  fishermen),  and  the  stage  now  nms 
(iown  Long  Island  on  the  Bay  of  Fmidy  side.  If  there  is  no  fog  the  view 
iicross  the  bay  Is  pleasing,  and  is  usually  enlivened  by  the  sails  rif  passing 
vessels.  Long  Island  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  2  M.  wide,  and  its  village 
of  Free  Port  has  700  inhabitants. 

Near  the  end  of  Long  Island  another  ferry-])oat  is  taken,  and  the  trnv- 
(11. T  crosses  (he  (jraiid  Passage  to  West  Port  (('intral  /louse),  a  village 
(d  ()()()  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  (Ishermen,  shipbuilders,  or  sea-ea|»- 
tains.  This  town  is  on  Hrier  Island,  the  S.  K.  portal  of  the  Hay  of  Kundy, 
and  is  f)  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide.  On  its  K.  side  are  two  li.xed  white  light,s, 
and  on  the  W.  are  a  fog-whistle  and  a  powerful  white  light  visible  for 
15  M. 

25.   Halifax  to  Yarmouth.     The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova 

Scotia. 

The  steamer  of  the  We<<tern  Shore  Line  runs  along  the  coast  of  Nova 
Scotia,  leaving  Halifax  for  Yannonth  every  Monday  at  10  P.  M.  A  vessel 
of  the  Fishwiek  Line  jilies  between  Halifax.  C'anso,  Arichat,  Port  Mul- 
grave.  Port  Ilawkesburv,  Port  Hastings,  Hayfield,  and  Charlottetown, 
leaving  every  Tuesday  at  7  a.  m.,  and  giving  access  to  all  the  North- 
Shore  ports,  and   eonneeting  with   the    Bras  d'Or  steamboats,  for  Cspe 

Breton. 

FareH.  —  Halifax  to  Lunrnhurg,  $1.50;  to  Livrrpool,  $8.50;  to  Shelbume, 
$4.60;  to  Yarmoutti,  $5.  Iiun<>iihin-g  to  lilvprpool,  .f 2 ;  to  Shelhumi',  lff3;  to  Yar- 
in«)Uth,  $4.50.  Liverpool  to  Shelbuinw,  $2;  to  YMnnonth,  $3.50.  Hhelbume  to 
Yarmouth,  $3.     iierttiH  are  included  iu  these  priceH,  but  the  meals  are  extra. 

"The  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  from  ('ape  Canso  to  ('ape  Sable,  Is  pierced 
with  innuuM'rable  small  bays,  harbors,  and  rivers.  The  shores  are  lined  with  rockH 
and  thonsamls  of  islands ;  and  although  no  part  of  the  country  can  properly  tw  con- 
sidered mountainous,  and  there  are  but  few  st<»ep  high  cliffs,  yet  the  aspect  of  the 
whole,  if  not  romantically  sublinic,  is  exceedingly  pictureH(iue  ;  and  the  scenery,  in 
many  places,  is  richly  beautiful..  The  landscajw  which  the  head  of  .Mahone  Hay,  in 
particular,  presents  can  scarcely  be  surpassed."     (M'iJRKfJOR's  British  Arnerira  ) 

"  The  jagjzed  outline  of  this  cojist,  as  seen  upon  the  map,  reminds  us  of  the  equally 
indented  Atlantic  shores  of  Scandinavia;  and  the  character  of  the  cftast  jis  he  sails 
along  it—  the  rcM'ky  surface,  the  scanty  herbage,  and  the  endless  pine  forest.s  —  re- 
call to  the  traveller  the  ap)K>arance  and  natural  productions  of  the  same  European 
country."    (1»rof  Johnston.) 

The  steamer  ]>asses  down  Halifax  Harbor  (see  page  93),  and  gains  the 
open  sea  beyond  Chebncto  Head  and  the  lighthon.se  on  Samhro  Island. 
She  usually  makes  a  good  offing  before  turning  down  the  coast,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  far-reaching  and  dangerous  Sambro  Ledges.  W.  of  the  open 
light  of  Pennant  Bay  Is  Mars  Head,  on  whose  fatal  rock.s  the  ocean  steam- 
ship Atlantic  was  wrecked,  in  1873,  when  535  persons  were  drowned. 


\ 

>1. 
7 

J 

>1I 


;■■• 


«.* 


.  I,* 
■'A 


118        R(nUe25. 


LUNENBURG. 


This  line  of  coast  has  been  famous  for  its  marine  disasters.  In  1779  the  British 
war-vessels  North  and  HeUma  were  wrecked  near  Sambro.and  170  men  were  drowned. 
Mars  Head  derives  its  name  from  the  fa<  t  that  the  British  line-of- battle  ship  Mars, 
70  guns,  was  wrecked  upon  its  black  ledges,  in  l'i79  tlie  American  war-vessel  Vipn, 
22,  attacked  11.  M.  S.  Rtsolutinn,iU(i.t  ott  Sanibro,  and  captured  heraftcr  a  long  and 
desperate  battle,  in  which  both  ships  were  badly  cut  to  pieces.  Caf<«  ^<'an1l)ro  was 
named  by  the  n.arir.ers  of  St.  Malo  early  in  the  17th  century  ;  and  it  U  thought  that 
the  present  fonn  of  the  name  is  a  corruption  of  St  Centre,  the  original  designation. 
The  ancient  Latin  book  called  the  Novvs  Chbis  (published  by  Elzevir;  Amsterdam, 
1633)  says  that  the  islands  between  Cnpe  Sambro  ( Sesambre)  and  Mahone  Bay  were 
called  the  Idartyrs"  Isles,  on  account  of  the  Frenchmen  who  had  there  been  mas- 
sacred by  the  heathen  Indians. 

Beyond  Cape  Prospect  the  deep  indentations  of  St.  Margaret's  Bay  and 
Mahone  Bay  make  in  on  the  N.,  and 

*'  breezy  Aspotogon 
Lifts  high  its  summitlblue." 

The  roughest  water  of  the  voyage  is  usually  found  while  crossing  the 
openings  of  these  bays.  The  course  is  laid  for  Cross  Island,  where  there 
are  two  lights,  one  of  which  is  visible  for  14  M.  Passing  close  in  by  this 
island,  the  steamer  enters  that  pretty  bay  which  was  formerly  known  to 
the  Indians  as  Mnlnyash,  or  "  Milky,"  on  account  of  the  whiteness  of  its 
stormy  surf.  At  the  head  of  this  bay  the  white  and  compact  town  of 
Lunenburg  is  seen  between  two  round  green  hills.  The  steamer  passes 
around  the  outermost  of  these,  and  enters  the  snug  little  harbor. 

"  The  town  of  Lunenburg  is  situated  at  the  innermost  extremity  of  a  penin.';ula, 
and  to  a  niilifary  traveller  presents  a  more  formidable  aspect  than  any  other  In  Nova 
Scotia,  the  upinr  houses  being  placed  on  the  crests  of  steep  glacis  slopes,  so  as  to 
bear  upon  all  .k^  nroaches  "    (Capt.  Moorson.) 

Lunenburg  {King's  Hotel)  is  a  thriving  little  seaport,  situated  on  a  se- 
cure and  spacious  harbor,  and  enjoying  a  lucrative  West-India  trade. 
Together  with  its  immediate  environs,  it  has  4,0(K)  inhabitants,  of  whom 
over  half  are  in  the  port  itself.  The  German  character  of  the  citizens  is 
still  retained,  though  not  so  completely  as  in  their  rural  settlements;  and 
the  principal  churches  are  Lutheran.  The  public  buildings  of  Lunenburg 
County  are  located  here.  A  large  trade  in  lumber  and  fish  is  carried  on,  in 
addition  to  the  southern  exports.  There  are  numerous  farming  communi- 
ties of  Germanic  origin  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  shore-roads  exhibit  at- 
tractive phases  of  marine  scenery.  7  M.  distant  is  the  beautifully  situated 
village  of  Mahone  Bay  (see  Route  26) ;  4  M.  distant  are  the  remarkable  sea- 
side ledges  called  the  Blue  Rocks;  to  the  S.  E  is  the  rural  settlement  of 
Lunenburg  Peninsula,  oft'  which  are  the  sea-girt  farms  of  Heckman's 
Island  ;  and  12  M.  distant  is  the  gold  district  of  The  Ovens. 

This  site  was  anciently  occupied  by  the  Indian  village  of  Malagash.  In  1745  the 
British  government  issued  a  proclamation  inviting  German  Protestants  to  emigrate 
to  Nova  Scotia  and  take  up  its  unoccupied  lands  In  17.53,  200  families  of  Germans 
and  Swiss  settled  at  Lunenburg,  and  were  provided  with  farming  implements  and 
three  years'  provisions  by  the  government.  They  fortified  their  new  domains  as 
well  as  possible,  but  many  of  the  people  were  killed  by  Indians  Inrkingin  the  woods. 
The  settlement  was  thus  held  in  check  until  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  when  the 
Indians  cMssd  hostilities.    In  1777  the  town  was  attacked  by  two  American  priva 


IRONBOUND  ISLAND. 


Route  25. 


119 


)  the  British 
?ere  drowned. 
e  ship  Marx, 
-vespel  Viper  ^ 
or  u  long  ntui 
>ani1)r<i  wuh 
thought  that 
1  dc.'-'igtiation. 
Amsterdam, 
one  Bay  >vere 
re  been  nias- 


st's  Bay  and 


crossing  the 

where  there 

e  in  by  this 

ly  known  to 

iteness  of  its 

act  town  of 

samer  passes 

or. 

f  a  peninsula, 
,  other  in  Nova 
lopes,  so  as  to 

ted  on  a  se- 
•India  trade, 
its,  of  whom 
le  citizens  is 
einents;  and 
f  Lunenburg 
carried  on,  in 
:ig  communi- 
s  exhibit  at- 
fully  situated 
larkable  sea- 
ettlement  of 
Heckman's 


.  In  1745  the 
ts  to  emigrate 
ies  of  Geniians 
nplemcnts  and 
ew  domains  as 
g  in  the  woods. 
lada,  when  the 
merican  priva 


teern,  who  landed  detachments  of  armed  men  and  occupied  the  principal  buildings 
After  plundering  the  place  and  securing  a  valuable  booty,  these  unwelcome  visitors 
sailed  away  rejoicing,  leaving  Lunenburg  to  put  on  thcVo'oes  of  war  and  anxiously 
yearn  for  another  naval  attstck,  for  whose  reception  spirit<»(i  provisions  were  made. 

Among  the  jMJople  throughout  thi«  county  Cieruian  customs  are  still  preserved,  as 
at  we<ldings  and  funerals  ;  the  German  language  is  spoken  ;  and  sermons  an;  deliv- 
ered oftentimes  in  the  same  tongue.  The  cows  are  uuule  to  do  service  in  ploughing, 
and  the  firming  implements  are  of  a  primitive  pattern.  A  large  portion  of  the  out- 
door work  in  the  fields  is  done  by  the  women,  who  are  generally  strong  and  muscular. 

The  Novn-Sootiu  Central  Railway  runs  from  LunenbMrf:f  to  IMdo-ewater, 
and  to  Mi(Mlotoii  (see  page  8  >)•  Steamboats  sail  from  Lunenburg  fur 
Halifax  every  Tuesday  and  Friday. 

1  he  steamer  leaves  Lunenburg  Harbor,  passes  Battery  Point  and  its 
lif^litliouse  on  the  I.,  and  descends  between  the  kn<jb-Hkc  hills  of  the  outer 
harbor.  On  the  r.  are  the  shores  of  the  remarkable  peninsula  of  The 
Ovens.  The  low  cliffs  along 

tills  shore  are  pierced  by  numerous  caverns,  three  of  wiiich  are  70  ft.  wide 
at  their  mouths  and  over  200  ft.  deep.  The  sea  dashes  into  these  dark 
recesses  during  a  heavy  swell  with  an  amazing  roar,  broken  by  deep 
booming  reverberations. 

In  1861  gold  was  discovered  on  the  Ovens  peninsula,  and  2,000 
ounces  were  obtained  during  that  autumn,  since  which  the  mining  fever 
has  subsided,  and  no  earnest  work  has  been  done  here.  The  precious  metal 
was  obtained  chiefly  by  washing,  and  but  little  was  effected  in  the  way 
of  quartz-crushing. 

Beyond  Ovens  Head  the  pretty  circular  indentation  of  Rose  Bay  is  seen 
on  the  r.,  on  whose  shores  is  a  settlement  of  250  German  farmers.  The 
steamer  now  passes  between  Cross  Island  (1.)  and  Rose  Head,  which  are 
about  2  M.  apart,  and  enters  the  Atlantic.  When  a  sufficient  offing  has 
been  made,  the  course  is  laid  S.  W.  i  W.  for  8|  M.  Point  Enrag^  is  soon 
passed,  and  then  the  vessel  approaches  *  Ironbound  Island.  This  re- 
markable rock  is  about  \  M.  long,  and  rises  from  the  sea  on  all  sides  in 
smooth  curves  of  dark  and  iron-like  rock,  on  which  the  mighty  surges 
of  the  Atlantic  are  broken  into  great  sheets  of  white  and  hissing  foam. 
Upon  this  dangerous  outpost  of  Nova  Scotia  there  is  a  revolving  light, 
which  is  visible  for  13  M.  Beyond  Ironbound,  on  the  r.,  is  ?een  the  deep 
estuary  of  the  Lahave  River,  which  is  navigable  to  Bridgewater,  a  distance 
of  13  M.,  passing  for  12  M.  through  the  hamlets  of  New  Dublin,  and  thence 
through  a  valley  between  high  and  knob-like  hills. 

At  Fort  La  Heve  in  1636-7,  died  I.saac  de  Razilly,  "  Knight  Commander  of  the 
Order  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Lieutenant-Oeneral  of  Acadio,  and  Captain  of  the 
West."  lie  was  a  relative  of  Cardinal  Richelieu,  and  had  fought  in  the  campaigns 
of  La  Rochelle  and  the  coast  of  Morocco.  In  1642  D'Aulnay  purchased  these  do- 
mains from  Claude  de  Razilly,  but  soon  evacuated  the  place,  removing  the  people  to 
Port  Royal.  By  1654  the  colony  had  recoven'd  itself,  having  "  undoubtedly  the 
best  port  and  the  best  soil  in  the  whole  country."  It  was  then  attacked  by  the 
Sieur  le  Borgue,  who  burned  all  its  houses  and  the  chapel.  At  a  later  day  the  new 
Fort  La  H6ve  was  attacked  by  a  strong  force  of  New-England  troops,  who  were 
beaten  off  several  times  with  the  leas  of  some  of  their  best  men.  But  the  braT« 
Frenchmen  were  fivally  forced  to  surrender,  and  the  place  was  reduced  to  ruins 
Id  1705  the  aetttemeut  was  again  destroyed  by  Boston  privateers. 


■T 

-y:\ 


ti:. 


V     1 


M 


120        Route  25. 


LIVERPOOL. 


i 


f'^-'\ 


When  off  Cape  Lahave  the  steamer  takes  a  course  W.  by  S.,  which  is 
followed  for  15§  M.  The  fishing  hamlet  of  Broad  Cove  is  on  the  shore 
S.  W.  of  Cape  Lahave;  and  when  about  9  M.  from  the  cape,  the  entrance 
of  Port  Medway  is  seen.  This  harbor  is  4  M.  long  and  1^  M.  wide,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Port  Medway  and  Pedley  Rivers.  Port  Med- 
way (Dunphy's  Hotel)  is  on  its  W.  shore,  and  has  600  inhabitants,  who 
are  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  lumbering. 

The  steamer  soon  rounds  the  revolving  red  light  (visible  16  M.)  on  Cof- 
fin's Island,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  Liverpool  Bay.  The  shores  are 
well  inhabited,  with  the  settlement  of  Moose  Harboi'  on  the  1.,  and  Brook- 
lyn (or  Herring  Cove)  on  the  r.  The  lighthouse  on  Fort  Point  is  rounded 
and  the  vessel  enters  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  with  a  line  of 
wharves  on  the  1.,  and  the  bridge  in  advance. 

Liverpool  (  Village  Green  Hotel,  a  comfortable  summer-house;  and  two 
other  inns)  is  a  flourishing  seaport  with  2,50  )  inhabitants,  6  churches,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  a  bank.  Its  principal  industries  are  lumbering,  fish- 
ing, and  shipbuilding.  The  town  occupies  the  rocky  shore  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Liverpool  River,  and  its  streets  are  adorned  with  numerous  large 
shade  trees.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place,  either  on  account 
of  its  own  attractions,  or  to  seek  the  trout  on  the  adjacent  streams  and 
lakes  (see  Route  27).  There  are  pleasant  drives  also  on  the  Mill-Village 
Road,  and  around  the  shores  of  the  bay. 

Liverpool  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Indian  domain  of  Ogumkege.ok,  made 
claasic  in  the  traditions  of  the  Micniacs  by  the  celebrated  encounter  which  took 
place  here  between  the  divine  Glooscap  (see  paj^e  106)  and  the  great  sorceress  of  the 
Atlantic  coast.  The  struggle  of  craft  and  malevolence  against  superior  power  are 
quaintly  narrated,  though  taking  forms  not  pleasing  to  refined  n;inds,  and  the  con- 
test ends  in  the  defeat  of  the  hag  of  Oguntkegeok,  who  is  rent  in  pieces  by  the 
hunting-dogs  of  Glooscap. 

In  May,  1604,  the  harbor  of  Liverpool  was  entered  by  Pierre  du  Guast,  *•  Sieur  de 
Monts  of  Sanitouge,  Gentleman  in  Ordinary  of  the  Chamber,  and  Governor  of  Pons," 
who  had  secured  a  monopoly  of  tlie  fur-trade  between  40°  and  64°  N.  latitude.  He 
found  a  ship  here  trading  without  authority,  and  confiscated  her,  naming  the  har- 
bor Port  Rossignol,  after  her  captain,  "  as  though  M.  de  Monts  had  wished  to  make 
some  compensation  to  the  man  for  the  loss  he  inflicted  on  him ,  by  immortalizing 
his  name."  This  designation  did  not  hold  to  the  harbor,  but  has  been  transferred 
to  the  aarge  and  beautiful  lake  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Liverpool  River 

Abouf-  1634  a  shore-fishery  was  established  here  by  M  Denys  and  Gov.  Razilly. 
This  enterprise  was  for  a  long  time  successful,  but  was  finally  crippled  by  the  cap- 
ture of  its  heavily  laden  freighting-ship  by  the  Portuguese.  Soon  afterward  Denys 
wa?  forced  to  leave  Port  Rossignol  on  account  of  the  machinations  of  D'Aulnay 
Charnisay,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up.  By  the  year  1760  a  thriving  village 
stood  on  this  site,  and  in  the  War  of  1812  many  active  privateers  were  fitted  out  here. 
In  1832  the  port  owned  25,000  tons  of  shipping. 

On  leaving  Liverpool  Bay  the  steamer  rounds  Western  Head  and  runs 
S.  W.  i  S.  14  M.  On  the  r.  is  the  deep  erabayment  of  Port  Mouton, 
partly  sheltered  by  Mouton  Island,  and  lighted  by  a  fixed  red  light  on 
Spectacle  Island.  At  its  head  is  the  farming  and  fishing  settlement  of 
Port  Mouton,  with  350  inhabitants.  This  inlet  was  visited  by  the  ex- 
ploring ship  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in  1604,  and  received  the  name  which 


SHELBURNE. 


Route  25. 


121 


it  still  bears  because  a  sheep  here  leaped  from  the  deck  into  tlie  bay  and 
was  drowned.  The  shores  were  settled  in  1783  by  the  disbanded  veterans 
of  Tarleton's  Legion,  who  had  done  sucii  valia'  t  service  in  the  Carolinas. 

In  July,  1622,  Sir  William  Alexander's  pioneer-ship  entered  Port  Mouton,  '*  and 
discovered  three  very  pleasant  harbors  and  went  iu<hore  in  oneof  tiieni,  which,  after 
the  ship's  name,  they  called  Luke's  hay,  where  they  found,  a  great  way  up,  a  very 
pleasant  river,  being  three  fathoms  deep  at  the  entry  thereof,  and  on  every  side  of 
the  same  they  did  see  very  delicate  meJidows,  having  Koses  whitt;  and  re  I  growing 
thereon,  with  a  kind  of  whife  Lily,  which  had  a  dainty  smell."  These  shores,  which 
were  hardly  so  fair  as  the  old  mariner  painted  them,  were  soon  occupied  by  a  French 
post,  after  whose  destruction  they  remained  in  solitude  for  over  a  century. 

On  Little  Hope  Island  is  a  revolvincr  red  light,  beyond  which  the  steamer 
runs  W.  S.  W.  15  M.;  then  Part  Joli  opens  to  the  N.  W.,  on  which  is  a 
fishing-village  of  200  inhabitants.  About  3  M.  beyond  is  Port  Herbert^  a 
deep  and  narrow  estuary  with  another  maritime  hamlet.  Farther  VV.  is 
the  mouth  of  Sable  River  ;  but  the  steamer  holds  a  course  too  far  out  to 
distinguish  much  of  these  low  shores.  3^  M.  N.  is  Ram  Island,  W.  of 
which  are  the  ledges  off  Ragged  Island  Harbor,  at  whose  head  is  a  village 
of  350  inhabitants.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor  is  Locke's  Island  (two 
inns),  a  prosperous  little  port  of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  West-India 
trade  and  the  Bank  fisheries  are  carried  on.  Durit  g  the  season  of  1874 
70,000  quintals  offish  (valued  at  $250,000)  were  exported  from  this  point. 
On  Carter's  Island  is  a  fixed  red  light,  and  the  sea-swept  ledge  of  Gull 
Rock  lies  outside  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  powerful  white  light.  IJoyond 
Western  Head  the  steamer  runs  across  the  wide  estuaries  of  Green  Harbor 
and  the  Jordan  River,  on  whose  shores  are  four  maritime  hamlets.  The 
course  is  changed  to  N.  W.  ^  N.,  and  Bony's  and  Government  Points  are 
passed  on  the  r.  On  the  1.  Cape  Rose  way  is  approached,  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights,  visible  for  10  and  18  M.,  standing  in  a  black-and- 
white  striped  tower.  Passing  between  Surf  Point  and  Sand  Point  the  ves- 
sel turns  N.  by  E.,  leav'ng  Birchtown  Bay  on  the  1.,  and  runs  up  to  Shel- 
burne.  The  last  few  miles  are  traversed  between  the  picturesque  shores 
of  a  bay  which  an  enthusiastic  mariner  has  called  "  the  best  in  the  world, 
except  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  in  Australia." 

Shelburne  (Sfielburne  House,  T.  K.  Ryer,  proprietor),  is  the  capital  of 
Shelburne  County,  and  has  over  1,0U0  inhabitants  and  5  churches.  It 
is  engaged  chiefly  lu  fishing  and  shipbuilding,  and  excels  in  the  latter 
branch  of  business.  The  harbor  is  9  M.  long  and  1  -2  M.  wide,  and  has 
5-7  fathoms  of  water,  without  any  .t^hoals  or  flats.  It  is  completely  land- 
locked, but  can  never  attain  any  commercial  importance,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  it  is  frozen  solid  during  the  winter,  there  being  no  river  currents 
or  strong  tides  to  agitate  the  water.  There  are  granite-ledges  near  the 
villnge,  and  the  Roseway  River  empties  into  the  bay  1  M.  distant.  Birch- 
town  is  5  M.  from  Shelburne,  and  is  at  the  head  of  a  branch  of  the  bay.  It 
is  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  negro  slaves  brought  from  Mary- 
land and  Virginia  by  the  Loyalist  refugees,  in  1783.  The  country  back 
6  '  " 


] 


r'-. 


'  1 


'i^i 


i 


|i: 


122       Route  tS. 


PORT  LATOUR 


of  Sholljunio  is  unimproved,  nnd  the  roacin  noon  tonninato  in  tho  prnt  for- 
ests ftbout  tlio  Hliio  Mts.  Stnpos  run  from  tliis  town  K.  nnd  W.  Kjirc^^, 
SlioU)nrno  to  Mvpr|«)ol,  |;'2.50;  to  Barrinpfon,  $1.50;  to  Ymnioutli,  $4. 

'*  Thn  town  of  Slu'llturiio  i«  HituiitiMl  at  Ww  N.  «»xtn'niity  of  a  bonutlful  InW't,  10  M 
in  IiMifith  nn«l2-!i  M  In  lnvadth,  In  whl«'li  tho  wliolo  ro.val  navy  of  (Jroat  Hritnin 
might  Ho  conipli'tcly  lanillorkcd/^  In  17S8  largi'  iiunibt-rH  of  Ainorinui  li(>3uli>ts 
lu>ttU>«l  hen*,  hoping  to  »'i"«H-t  a  great  olty  on  tills  nnrlvallrd  harlmr.  Tlicy  broii^lit 
tholr  w'rvantwnnd  ji|nl|i:in;rM,  and  t'HtabllsluMl  a  <'ultnnMl  nii'tropolitan  Horioty.  Shfl- 
Imrnc  hoon  ran  ahoad  of  llnlifttx,  and  nwasurt'?*  w<-rt>  tak«<n  to  tran^lor  tlu>  Kcaf  of 

fovornnu'nt  \ww.  U'itidn  on*'  \vnr  the  primeval  fori>st  wns  n-plarcd  by  a  rity  of 
2,<MK)  inhabitants  (of  whom  1,200  wrrr  nrgroi^sV  Th«' obscnn>  hanilot  which  hml 
been  fonnded  hort'  (nndcr  the  name  of  New  .lernsalenP  in  \~i'A  was  replaced  In  a 
metropolis ;  and  (i<»v  I'arr  soon  ent<'r«'d  the  bay  on  the  frigate  Lit  Sa/ifiir,  amid  the 
roaring  of  saluting  batteries,  and  named  the  new  city  SlielliiiriK'*  Hut  the  place 
had  no  rural  baek-eo\uitry  to  supply  and  be  ruriched  by  ;  and  the  colonists,  mostly 

?atririans  from  the  Atlantic  cities,  c«>uld  not  and  would  not  engage  in  the  fisheries. 
ho  money  which  they  hatl  brotight  froni  their  old  homes  was  at  last  exhausted,  and 
then  "  Shelburne  dwindled  Into  insigniticanco  almost  as  rapidly  as  it  had  risen  to 
notoriei  "  Many  of  its  iKM»ple  rettirned  contritely  to  the  United  States;  and  tlio 
poptdation  here  soon  sank  to  400.  "  It  is  only  the  sight  of  a  few  large  storehouses, 
with  decayed  timbers  and  window-frames,  ntantling  near  the  wliarves,  that  will  IcikI 
him  to  conclude  that  those  wharves  nnist  once  have  teemed  with  shipmasters  and 
Miilors.  The  stre«'ts  «)f  the  town  are  changed  Into  avenues  bounded  b\  stone  fences 
on  either  side,  in  which  grass  plants  contest  the  palm  of  supremacy  with  Bfones." 
Within  two  years  over  ;52,r)(iO,(HK)  were  sunk  in  the  founding  of  yhelburne. 

The  steamer  leaves  Shelbnnie  by  the  same  course  on  wliicli  she  entered, 
with  the  stunted  forests  of  MeNutt's  Ishind  on  tlie  r.  Roundinjr  Ctipe 
Rosetray  within  1  M.  of  the  iijiiits,  she  runs  down  by  Cray's  ishnui,  pass- 
ing Roinid  Ray  and  the  hamlet  of  iMack  Point,  on  the  i)old  headland  of 
the  same  name.  Nefp'o  l&Uxnd  is  then  seen  on  the  r.,  and  is  oceu[)ied  by 
a  population  of  fishernu>n;  while  its  N.  K.  point  has  a  powerful  red-aiid- 
whito  flashinjx  lijiht.  Inside  of  this  island  is  the  broad  estuarvof  the  Clyde 
River,  n'^d  near  by  is  the  largo  and  pictures(pie  fishing-village  of  Vnpe 
Nejjro.  Cape  Negro  was  so  named  by  Chamjtlain,  in  1004,  "on  account 
of  a  rock  which  at  a  distance  resembles  one."  The  steamer  then  passes 
the  Salvage  Rocks,  olf  Blanche  Island  (Point  Jefl'reys),  and  opens  the 
broad  bay  of  Port  Latour  on  the  N.  W.  This  haven  was  the  scene  of 
stirring  events  during  the  17th  century,  and  the  renuiins  of  the  fort  of 
Claude  de  la  Tour  are  still  visil)le  here. 

"  Claude  Turgis  do  St.  Estieune,  Sicur  do  la  Tour,  of  the  province  of  Champagne, 
quitted  Paris,  taking  with  him  his  sou  Charles  Amador,  then  14  years  old,  to  settle 
in  Acadia,  near  Poutrincourt,  who  was  then  engaged  in  founding  Port  lloyul."  17 
years  afterwards,  Charles  succeeded  to  the  government  on  the  death  of  IJiencourt, 
Poutrincourt's  son,  and  for  4  years  held  Fort  St.  Louis,  in  the  pri-sent  Port  Latour. 
Meantime  Claude  had  bei>n  caj)tured  by  tlie  Knglish  and  carried  to  London,  wlicro 
he  was  knighted,  and  then  married  one  of  the  Queen's  maids-of-honor.  lU-iiig  a 
Huguenot,  ho  was  the  more  eaisily  seduced  from  his  allegiance  to  France,  and  iio 
olTbred  to  the  King  to  procure  the  surrender  of  Fort  St.  Lo>iis  (the  only  French  post 
then  held  in  Acadia)  to  the  English  So  he  sailed  to  Nova  Scotia  with  two  frigates, 
and  asked  his  son  to  yield  up  the  stronghold,  offering  hhr,  high  honors  at  London 
and  the  supreme  command  in  Aoadia,  on  behalf  of  the  English  power.  "  Claude  at 
once  told  his  father  that  he  was  mistaken  in  supposing  him  capable  of  giving  up  the 
place  to  the  enemies  of  the  state.  That  he  would  preserve  it  for  the  king  his  master 
while  he  had  a  breath  of  life.    That  he  esteemed  highly  the  digoities  offered  him  by 


CAPE  SABLE. 


lloiile  25. 


123 


lie  jifTPnt  for- 
VV.     Fnrcs, 
iioutli,  $4. 

HI  \uM,  10  M. 
OrtMit  Kritiiii) 
icaii  lioyiillstH 
TIh'.v  l)r()ll^'llt 
Hocioty.  i^lit'l- 
iT  tlH»  fvnt  «)f 
il  1)3'  a  rity  of 
let  which  hud 
rcplin'cd  h\  li 
/iliif,  amid  tho 

Itiit  the  plnco 
lonistH,  iiKistiy 
n  tho  fisl»>ri<'s. 
'xhaiiHtod,  1111(1 
it  had  risen  to 
ttitos ;  and  tiio 
;e  Htondjoiisj's, 
,  that  will  IdkI 
iipninHt(<n4  and 
lt\  stone  fences 

with  stones." 
iiirno. 

I  she  ontorcd, 

iiuidinj;  Cape 

ishuid,  |>iiss- 

hciulhinil  of 

occupied  hy 

fp.l  rod-iiiid- 

oftlie  Clyde 

ago  of  Cnpe 

on  Jiceount 

then  passes 

d  opens  tho 

le  scene  of 

tlic  fort  of 


)f  Champagne, 
'8  old,  to  settle 
t  Royal."  17 
of  llicncourt, 
t  Port  Latour. 
london,  wlievc 
nor.  HeinK  a 
'ranee,  and  lie 
y  French  post 
two  frigates, 
ors  at  London 
"Claude  at 
pfiving  up  tlie 
ni?  hi.s  master 
)ffered  him  by 


the  KnKli'*ti  KinKi  ^»t  nhould  not  buy  them  at  thn  price  of  tmaiton.  That  tho  prince 
h«>  served  wiui  al)ln  to  n<qultn  him  ;  and  if  not,  that  fidelity  wan  it<i  own  hoHt  n<<*oni- 
pensi'."  Tlio  father  employed  a(T«eti(>nnt«  inten-exsion  and  hf»ld  merwu-e,  aliko  In 
vain :  and  the  Kn^li^ii  naval  eomniander  ttu^n  laniied  his  foreex,  liut  wax  m>ven>ly 
rcpnl.s<'d  from  the  fort,  and  finally  jrave  up  tiie  Mletje.  A  tniit^>r  to  Knmre  and  a 
canse  of  disiiNter  to  KnKland,  the  unfortunate  La  Tour  dared  not  n'urn  to  Kuro|H>, 
but  luivised  IiIh  patrician  wife  to  (j^o  hack  with  the  fleet,  since  naup;ht  now  reinnined 
for  him  l»ut  p«Miury  and  niiwry.  The  nohle  ladv  replied,  "  that  she  had  not  married 
iiini  to  altandon  him.  That  wherever  he  should  tJiUe  her,  and  in  whatever  condi* 
tion  he  mi^lit  Im;  plm'«!il,  she  woulil  always  he  his  fiitlsfnl  companion,  ami  that  all 
her  happiness  would  consist  in  .softeninj^  his  jfrief."  lie  fiien  threw  himself  on  the 
clemency  of  his  son,  who  temjM-red  filial  alfeclion  with  militJiry  vi(;ilance,  and  wel- 
comed tlie  elder  IjaTo)ir,with  his  family,  servants,  and  e<|uipa)<e,  Kivinjjhim  a  houso 
and  liberal  suhsistiuieu,  hut  makiriKand  enforcing  the  condition  that  neither  himself 
nor  his  wife  should  ever  enter  Kort  St.  liOuiH.  There  they  lived  in  happiness  and 
comfort  for  many  years.    {H«o  also  page  ID. ) 

Tho  hainlct  of  l*ort  Latour  is  seon  on  the  inner  shore,  and  tho 
vessel  rounds  tho  lowr  low  promontory  of  linrcaro  Pmnt,  on  which  is  a 
small  village  and  a  fixed  red  li^rjit  (visible  12  .NL).  On  the  W.  is  Cape 
Sable  Island,  which  is  7  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide,  and  has  a  population 
of  l,r)36,  with  three  churches.  Its  first  settlers  wcro  tho  French  Acadians, 
who  had  prosperous  little  hamlets  on  tho  shores.  In  August,  1758,  400 
soldiers  of  the  3r)th  British  Regiment  landed  hero  and  destroyed  the  settle- 
ments, and  carried  priest  and  people  away  to  Halifax.  Ahout  1784  tho 
ishuid  was  occupied  by  Loyalists  from  tho  New-Kngland  coasts,  whoso  de- 
scendants are  daring  and  adventurous  mariners.  Cape  Sable  is  on  an 
outer  islet  at  the  extreme  S.  point  of  tlio  island  and  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  i.s 
8-9  .M.  S.  VV.  of  Baccaro  Point. 

It  is  supposed  that  (^ap«^  Sable  and  the  adjacent  shores  w(;re  the  ancient  lands  of 
the  Norse  discov<!rers,  "  flat,  and  covertiil  witli  wood,  and  where  white  sands  were 
far  around  where  they  we  .t,  and  the  shore  was  low."  In  the  year  l»I)t  this  point  was 
visited  hy  Leif,  the  .son  of  Kric  the  lied,  of  Hrattahlid,  in  Greenland  He  andionwi 
his  ship  oiT  shore  and  landed  in  a  i»oat;  and  when  he  returned  on  hoird  he  said: 
"This  land  shall  Ix;  named  after  its  qualities,  and  caUed  Mauki.am*  "' (wooilland). 
Tln'iice  he  sailed  southward,  and  discovered  Vinland  the  (lood,  on  the  .^.  shon^s  of 
!M  i.ssachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  where  for  many  years  the  hold  Norsemen  main- 
tained colonies.  In  tho  year  1007  Markland  was  agiin  vi.sited  iiy  Thorllnn  KarI.S4!fno, 
who,  with  ItiO  men,  was  sailing  .sout'i  to  Vinland.  These  events  are  narrated  in  the 
ancient  Icelandic,  epics  of  the  Sagiof  Eric  the  Red  and  tlie  Saga  of  Tliodlnn  Karlsefuo 

In  1347  a  ship  arrived  at  Icelatid  from  the  shore-i  of  Slarklatid,  which  is  de- 
scribed by  the  Annales  Skalholtini  and  the  Codex  Flateyetisis  as  having  been 
smaller  than  any  Icelandic  coasting-ves.sel.  In  such  tiny  craft  did  the  fearle.sa 
Norsemen  visit  these  iron-hound  shores. 

In  the  autumn  of  1750  there  wa.s  a  sharp  nav.'tl  action  olT  the  ca|M»  Itetween 
II.  M.  S.  Albany  .and  the  French  war-ve.s.sel  St  Franrix.  The  engag»nnent  lasted 
fiinr  hoiu's,  and  ende«i  in  the  surrender  of  the  St.  FrnnrA.s,  who.se  convoy,  however, 
tMiiped  and  reached  its  destination. 

In  .July,  1812,  the  Salem  privateer  Po'ly  wiis  cruising  off  (!ai>e  Sable,  when  she 
sighted  two  strange  sail,  and  bore  do wj)  on  them,  supposing  them  to  be  merclmnt- 
loeii ;  but  one  was  a  British  sloop-of-war,  which  opened  a  liot  fins  ui)on  (he  incau- 
tious Folli/,  and  a  sharp  chase  ensued.  A  calm  conunenced,  during  wiiich  the  frig- 
ate's boats  and  lauuch  attacked  the  privateer,  hut  were  repulsed  by  lieavy  dis- 
charges of  nuisketry  and  langrage.  The  Pully  made  her  escape,  and  during  the 
cha.se  and  action  the  convoy  of  the  frigate  had  been  captured  by  the  privateer  Mad- 
ison,  and  was  sent  into  Silem. 

In  the  same  vicinity  ( Aug.  1,1812)  the  Rhode-Island  privateer  Yankee  captured 
the  British  ship  Royal  Bnmly,  10  guas,  after  a  battle  of  one  hour's  duration.    The 


111 


t':-5 


I 


124        Routers. 


BARRINGTON. 


privateer's  broadnidefl  were  dpHvered  with  great  precision,  antl  150  of  her  shot  strurk 
the  enemy,  while  tlie  fire  of  the  Royal  Bounty,  though  rapid  and  licavy,  was  nearly 
ineffective.  The  shattered  Briton  t)ecnme  uimianap'able,  and  while  in  that  condi- 
tion was  miced  from  stem  to  stern  by  the  Yankee's  l>:ittcries. 

Cape  Sable  lias  lonj?  been  dreaded  by  wiunen ,  nnd  bus  caupht  up  and  destroyed 
many  vessels.  It  is  one  of  the  most  dnuKerous  prongs  of  that  iron-bound  Province 
for  which  Edmund  Burke  could  find  no  better  words  than  "  that  liard-visaped  ill- 
favored  brat  "  l*robably  th(!  most  destructive  wreck  on  this  shore  was  that  of' the 
ocean  steamship  Hungarian. 

The  steamer  runs  N.  \V.  up  the  Barrinyton  Passnfje  to  Barriogton  {Bar- 
rington  House ;  IVilloto  Grace  ;  Rock  Cottar/t ;  Island  Lodye,  —  each  $5-7 
a  week),  a  thriving  maritime  village,  43  M.  from  Yarmouth,  whence  it  U 
reached  hy  8teaml)oats  thrice  weekly,  connectin^^  with  the  Boston  boats,  or 
b.v  daily  sta^e.  (Boston  to  Barrington,  $6  by  steamer,  or  $7  by  steamer 
and  otage.)  Ten  to  twelve  miles  north  are  the  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  Barrington  Avas  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  French, 
but  they  were  crowded  off  in  1763  by  the  arrival  of  160  families  from  Capo 
Cod,  who  brought  hither  their  household  effects  on  their  own  vessels. 
After  the  Revolution,  a  colony  of  Loyalists  from  Nantucket  settled  hero 
with  their  whilom  neighbors. 

The  course  is  now  to  the  S.  W.,  through  a  narrow  and  tide-swept  pas- 
sage between  Clement  Point  and  N.  K.  I'oint,  a^d  thence  ont  through  tlio 
Barrington  West  Passage,  passing  the  liaptist  church  near  Clarke's  Har- 
bor, and  emerging  on  the  open  sea  between  Bear  Point  and  Newell  Head. 
(It  is  to  be  noted  that,  under  certain  adverse  conditions  of  wind  and  tido, 
the  steamer  does  not  call  at  Harrington,  but  rounds  Cape  Sable  on  the 
outside.)  On  the  1.  is  Green  Island,  hiding  Cape  Sable,  and  the  inlet  of 
Shag  Harbor  is  seen  on  the  r.  On  Bon  Portage  Island  (whose  original 
French  name  was  Bon  Potage)  is  a  new  lighthouse,  to  warn  vessels  from 
the  rugged  shores  on  which  the  Viceroy  was  wrecked.  The  course  soon 
changes  toward  the  N.  W.,  and  Seal  Island,  "the  elbow  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,"  is  seen  on  the  1 ,  far  out  at  sea,  with  the  tower  of  its  lighthouse 
(fixed  white  light,  visible  18  M.,  and  fog-whistle)  looming  al)ove  its  low 
shores  On  this  island  the  ocean-steamship  Columbia  was  lost.  The 
Blonde  Rock  is  3^  M.  S.  by  W.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  marks  the  point 
where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Blonde  went  to  i)ieces,  in  1782.  Her  crew  was  res- 
cued from  the  island  and  was  given  liberty  by  the  American  privateers 
Lively  and  Scammell,  which  were  prowling  about  Cape  Sable  at  the  time 
of  the  wreck. 

When  the  Seal  Island  lighthouse  is  just  abeam,  on  the  other  side  is  scon 
Cockerv/hit  and  the  Mutton  Islands;  N.  of  Seal  Island  tlie  Noddy,  Mud, 
and  Round  Islands  are  seen,  lying  well  out  at  sea.  The  early  French 
maps  (Chaubert's)  gjive  these  lonely  islands  the  >*lgnificant  name  of  Lts 
Ules  aux  Loup»  Ma  rim. 

From  Cape  Sable  "  one  goes  to  tlie  hU  aux  Cormorants,  a  league  distant,  so  called 
on  account  of  the  infinite  number  there  of  those  birds,  with  whose  eggs  we  filled  a 


TUSKET  ISLANDS. 


Route  g5.        125 


ctj\ ;  and  firom  thin  bay  making  W.  about  6  leaffue8>cro!)fling  a  bay  which  runs  in 
2-3  leagues  to  the  N.,  we  meet  several  islands,  2-3  leagues  out  to  sen,  which  may 
contain,  some  2,  others  3  leagued,  and  others  less,  according  to  my  judgment.  They 
are  mostly  very  dangerous  for  vessels  to  come  close  to,  on  account  of  the  great  tides 
and  rocks  level  with  the  water.  These  islands  are  filled  with  pine-trees,  firs, birches, 
and  aspens.  A  little  further  on  are  4  others.  In  one  there  is  so  great  a  quantity  of 
binls  called  tani;urtix  that  they  may  be  easily  knocked  down  with  a  stick.  In 
another  there  are  seals.  In  two  others  there  is  such  an  abundance  of  birds  of  dif- 
fitrcnt  kinds  that,  without  having  seen  them,  could  not  be  imagined,  such  as  cor- 
niorants,  ducks  of  three  kind.",  pee.'^e,  marmcttes,  bustards,  prrroquels  de  mer,  snipes, 
vultures,  and  other  birds  of  prey,  mnnnes,  sea-larks  of  two  or  three  kinds,  herons, 
t;f)»7//iwf»,  curlews,  sea-gulls,  divers,  kites,  appoih,  crows,  cranes,  and  other  sorts, 
which  make  their  nests  here.''   (Champlvin  ) 

"  Here  are  many  i.Mands  extending  into  the  sea,  4  5  M.  distant  from  the  main- 
land, and  many  rocks  with  l[>reaking  seas.  Some  of  these  islands,  on  account  of  the 
multitude  of  birds,  are  called  I.tles  mix  Tang  mux  ;  others  are  called  IsUsavxLoups 
Marins  (Seal  Islands)  "    (Novus  Orbis.) 

N  of  St.  John's  Island  (on  tlie  r.)  is  seen  the  deep  inlet  of  Pnbnico  Har- 
bor, on  wlio.se  shores  is  the  great  fishing-village  of  Fubnioo  ( Cnrland's 
Ilotel)^  with  2,500  inhabitants,  of  whom  136  families  are  Acadian-French, 
the  greater  portion  belonging  to  the  families  of  Amiro  and  D'Entremont. 
There  are  valuable  eel-fisheries  off  this  coast,  and  the  Acadians  own  65 
schooners  in  the  Banks  fisheries.  5  M.  N.  is  Arf/yle,  a  settlement  of  f  00 
inhabitants,  near  the  island  strewn  Abuptic  Harbor. 

The  steamer  now  cros.ses  the  month  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  estuary  of 
the  Tusket  River  (see  page  116),  andenters  the  archipelago  of  the  *Tusket 
Islands.  In  favorable  conditions  of  wind  and  tide  she  traverses  the  EUen- 
wood  Passage,  passing  the  Bald  Tuskets,  KUenwood,  Allen,  and  Murder 
Islands,  and  a  multitude  of  others.  The  islands  are  of  great  variety  of  size 
and  shape,  and  are  usually  thickly  covered  with  low  and  sturdy  trees; 
and  the  channels  between  them  are  narrow  and  very  deep.  The  frequent 
kaleidoscopic  changes  in  the  views  on  either  side,  and  the  fascinating 
commingling  and  contrast  of  forest,  rock,  and  water,  recall  the  .scenery  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  or  the  Narrows  of  Lake  George.  But  the  Tuskets 
are  not  even  embayed;  they  stand  off  one  of  the  sharpest  angles  of  the 
contitient,  and  the  deep  lanes  between  them  are  traversed  by  the  strongest 
tides  of  the  ocean. 

Soon  after  passing  the  last  Tusket  the  steamer  runs  in  near  the  white 
village  on  Jtbogue  Puint,  and  enters  Yarmouth  Sound.  On  the  1.  is  Cape 
Fourchu,  with  its  fog-whistle  and  a  lofty  revolving  light  which  is  visible 
for  18  M.  The  narrow  channel  is  ascended,  with  a  plain  of  mud  on  either 
i^ide,  if  the  tile  is  out;  and  the  vessel  reaches  the  end  of  her  journey  at  the 
wharves  of  Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth,  see  page  114. 


>  'I 

III 


It. 


A 


I(! 


i|! 


I 


126        Route  m,       ST.   MARGARET'S  BAY. 


26.   Halifax  to  Yarmonth,  by  the  Shore  Route.  —  Chester 

The  eaniest  route  to  the  chief  ports  on  tins  coast  is  hv  the  steamship  Hue  (see 
Route  26);  and  tlie  new  Wcstern-Coiiiitit's  Ilailway.  fioin  Yarmouth  to  Annapolis 
will  furnish  a  still  more  ex|K;ditious  line  of  travel.     But  many 

points  on  the  Atlantic  front  of  the  Province  are,  and  will  be,  accessible  only  by 
stages.  This  mode  of  travel  is  fully  as  arduous  here  as  in  other  remote  districts,  and 
t!ie  accommodations  for  wayfarers  are  indifferent. 

IliAtanceH.  —  Halifax  to  St  Marsf.iret's  Hay,  21  M  ;  Hubbard's  Cove  (McLean's), 
3'J:  ('hcster,  45  ;  .Miihone  Bav,  H5  (branch  to  Lunenburg  in  7  M.)  :  Briiigewater,  74- 
Mill  Village,  92;  Liverpool,  102:  Port  Mouton,  112:  Port  .loli.  116;  Si'ble  Kiver, 
127  ; Lockeport,  141 ;  .Fonlan  Kiver,  11:^;  Shelburne,  141;  Barrington,  ;64  ;  Pub- 
nieo,  175  ;  Tnsket,  l!>l  ;  Yarmouth,  211.  Ilcr  Majesty's  mail -stages  leave  Ilaliliix 
daily,  at  6.30  A.M.  Returning,  leave  Hiiiltcewater  at  5  a.  m.  daily.  Leave  Bridjie- 
water  for  Liverpool,  Fj-^ckeporfc  and  Shelburne,  daily,  at  8  p  m.  Shelburne  for 
Bridgewater,  at  noon.  Stages  from  Liverpool  to  Milton  and  Port  Medway  ;  from 
M;\hone  Bay  to  Lunenburg ;  from  head  of  St  Margaret's  Bay  to  French  Villai^e, 
Glen  Maigan^t.  and  Peggy's  Cove  SUiges  leave  Y>:nnouth  for  Shelburne,  ete.,  on 
arrival  of  evening  train  from  Bigby. 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Chester,  .$2  50;  Mahone  Bay,  S3  50  (Lunenburg,  !iii4); 
Bridgewater,  $4  ;  Liverpool,  «6  ;  Shelburne,  !iP8.50  ;  Barrington,  #10;  Yarmnnfb. 
912. 

The  »tnge  rattles  up  the  hilly  streets  of  Halifax  at  early  morniiior,  'iiid 
traverses  the  wide  commons  N.  of  the  Citadel,  with  formal  lines  of  trees 
on  either  side.  Beyond  the  ensuing  line  of  suburban  villas  it  descends  to 
the  level  of  the  Northwest  Arm  (see  page  100),  along  whose  head  it  passes. 
The  road  then  leads  along  the  shores  of  the  lakes  whence  Halifax  dniws 
its  water-supply,  and  enters  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  region.  Dauplil- 
ney's  Cove  is  at  the  head  of  *  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful bays  on  all  this  remarkable  coast.  It  is  12  M.  long  b}*  6  M.  wide,  aiid 
is  entered  by  a  passage  2  M.  wide;  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  named 
{Baie  de  Ste.  Marguerite)  by  Champlain,  who  visited  it  in  May,  1C03. 
There  arc  several  small  maritime  villtiges  on  its  shores,  and  the  dark  bhie 
waters,  bounded  by  rugged  hills,  are  deep  enough  for  the  passage  of  Ijiijie 
ships.  The  stage  runs  S.  W.  along  the  shore  for  11  M.,  sometimes  rolling 
alongsi<le  of  beaches  of  dazzling  white  sand,  then  by  shingly  and  stimy 
strands  on  which  the  embayed  surf  breaks  lightly,  and  then  by  the  liiits 
of  fishermen's  liamlets,  with  their  boats,  nets,  and  kettles  by  the  road- 
side. Huhbnr(Vs  Cove,  has  a  small  inn,  where  passengers  get  their  middav 
meals. 

There  was  an  ancient  water-route  from  this  point  to  the  Ba^sin  of  Minas.  2  M. 
from  the  (^ove  is  Dnup/iiney'x  Lnkr,  which  is  4  M.  long,  whence  a  carry  of  1^  M.  lemls 
into  the  Ponhonk  Lake,  a  river  like  expanse  8  M.  hmg.  and  nowhere  so  much  as  1 
M  wide.  A  short  outlet  leads  to  the  Blind  Lake,  which  winds  for  7  M.  through  tlic 
forests  \V.  of  the  Ardoise  Mt.,  and  is  drained  l>y  the  St.  Croix  River,  emptying  into 
the  Avon  at  Windsor. 

7  M.  S.  W.  of  Hubbard's  Cove  the  stage  crosses  the  East  Rirer,  "a 
glorious  nmway  for  salmon,  with  splendid  falls  and  cold  brooks  turnldiii;]; 
into  it  at  intervals,  at  the  mouth  of  which  large  trout  can  be  caught  two 
at  a  time,  if  the  angler  be  skilful  enough  to  land  them  when  hooked." 
Frequent  and  beautiful  views  of  Mahone  Bay  are  now  gained  (on  the  1), 
as  the  stage  sweeps  around  its  head  and  descends  to 


CHESTER. 


Route  26,     127 


Chester  (Lmrff  ITotntc;  Mulgmve;  daily  stafCR  to  Halifax,  and  semi- 

wcckly  stcMinor),  finely  sitiintrd  on  a  hill  ovorlnnkinj^  Mahoiio   Ray,  has 

flOO  iuiiabitants,  live  churches,  and  very  pleasant  suninicr  society.     It  was 

settled  about  the  year  1760  by  144  New-Englanders,  who  brought  an  outfit 

of  cattle  and  fanning-tools.     In  1784  they  were  joined  by  a  large  number 

of  Loyalist  refugees,  but  these  were  from  the  American  cities,  and  soon 

wearied  of  farming  and  returned  out  of  exile.     In  the  woods  near  the  vil- 

\\\cp.  is  a  thermal  spring  8  ft.  around,  whence  a  soft  alkaline  water  is  dis- 

cliitrgod;  and  on  the  shores  of  Sabbatee  Lake  are  found  deposits  of  kaolin, 

or  white  pipe-clay. 

Mr.  Hallock  is  an  enthusiastic  admiror  of  this  town,  and  says  :  "  Three  pleasant 
poasons  have  I  spmt  at  Chester.  1  idolize  its  very  name.  Just  l)elo\v  my  window  a 
lawn  slopes  down  to  a  little  bay  with  a  jetty,  where  an  occasional  nchooner  lands 
pome  stores.  There  is  a  lar^e  tree,  under  which  1  have  plmeJ  some  seats ;  and  off 
the  end  of  the  pier  the  hulies  can  catch  flounders,  tomcods,  and  cunners,  in  any 
quantity.  There  are  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  innumerable  islandH  in 
the  lia>,  where  one  can  bathe  and  picnic  to  hearfs-content.  There  are  sailing-boats 
for  lobster-spcarins  and  d«!ep-st«  tishing,  and  row-boats  too.  From  tlie  top  of  a 
nei^hborinj?  hill  is  a  wonderful  panorama  of  forest,  stream,  and  cultivated  shore,  of 
bays  and  distant  sea,  filled  with  islands  of  every  size  and  shape.  And  if  one  will  go 
to  (jlold  lliver  he  may  perchance  see,  as  I  have  done,  caribou  (juietly  fetMling  on  the 
natural  meadows  along  the  upper  stream.  Beyond  lUech  Hill  is  a  tra<'kk'ss  forest, 
fllled  with  moose,  with  which  two  old  hunters  living  near  oft  liold  familiar  inter- 
course."    (The  Fishing  Tourist.) 

One  of  the  pleasantcst  excursion.s  in  this  district  is  to  Deep  Cove  and 
Blandford,  14  M.  from  Chester,  by  a  road  which  follows  the  shores  of 
Malione  Bay.  Irom  Bhmdford  the  ascent  of  Mt.  AspotOgon  is  easily  ac- 
complished, and  rewards  the  visitor  by  a  superb  marine*  view,  including 
the  great  archipelago  of  Mahone  Bay,  the  dee|),  calm  waters  of  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  on  the  E.,  the  broken  and  picturesque  shores  towards  Cape 
Sainbro,  and  a  wide  sweep  of  the  blue  Atlantic.  Visitors  at  Chester  also 
(hive  down  the  Luneiiburg  and  Lahave  road,  which  allbrds  pretty  sea- 
viows. 

\  rugged  road  leads  across  the  Province  to  Windsor,  about  40  M.  N.,  Qa<«sing 
throiijfh  an  almost  unbroken  wilderness  of  hills,  and  following  the  course  of  the 
Avon  flakes  and  lliver.     Semi  wet^kly  stages  run  from  Chest<!i*  to  Ket:tville  (see 

page  '.♦11). 

*  Mahone  Bay  opens  to  the  S  ,  E.  and  W.  from  Chester,  and  may  be 
explored  by  boats  or  yachts  from  that  village.  It  is  studded  wifli  bcau- 
tifid  islands,  popularly  supposed  to  be  365  in  number,  the  largest  of  which 
aredccupied  by  cosey  little  farms,  while  the  smaller  ones  are  covered  with 
bits  of  forest.  Tlio  mainland  shores  are  nearly  all  occupied  by  [)rospero»i8 
farms,  which  are  under  the  care  of  the  laborious  Germans  of  the  county. 
Ill"  fogs  prevail  in  these  waters  to  a  far  less  extent  than  on  the  outer 
•K't'i),  mid  it  IS  not  infrecpuMitly  that  vessels  round  the  point  in  a  dense 
white  mist  and  enter  the  sunshine  on  the  Bay.  Boats  and  boatmen  may 
be  obtained  at  the  villages  along  the  shore,  and  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  among  the  islands,  in  pursuit  of  fish.     '*  The  unrivalled  beauty 


( ii 


i'i 


f-A 


if 


128        Route  ^6. 


MAHONE  BAY. 


of  Mahone  Bay  "  has  been  the  theme  of  praise  from  all  who  have  visited 
this  district.  In  June,  1813,  the  line-of-battle-ship  La  Hogue  and  the 
frigate  Orpheus  chased  the  American  privateer  Yuumj  Tenzer  in  among 
these  islands.  Though  completely  overpowered,  the  Yankee  vessel  re- 
fused to  surrender,  and  she  was  blown  up  by  one  of  her  officers.  Tl  e 
whole  crew,  94  in  number,  was  destroyed  in  this  catastrophe. 

Oak  Island  is  cplebrated  as  one  of  the  places  where  it  is  alleged  that  Capt. 
Kidd'H  treasure  is  hidden.  About  80  jears  ago  3  New-Englanders  claimed  to  have 
found  here  evidences  of  a  buried  mystery,  coincidiug  with  a  tradition  to  the  pame 
effect.  Digging  down,  they  passed  regular  layers  of  tiag-stontj  and  cut  logs,  and 
their  successors  penetrated  the  earth  over  100  ft.  farther,  finding  layers  of  timber, 
charcoal,  putty,  West-Indian  graps,  sawed  planks,  and  other  curious  substances, 
together  with  a  quaintly  carved  stone.  The  pit  became  flooded  with  water,  and  was 
pumped  out  steadily.  Halifax  and  Truro  merchants  invested  in  the  enterprise,  and 
great  stone  drains  were  discovered  leading  from  the  sea  into  the  pit.  After  much 
money  and  labor  was  spent  in  the  excHvation,  it  was  given  up  about  10  years  ago, 
and  the  object  of  the  great  drains  and  concealed  pit  tstill  remains  a  profound  U13  s> 
tery. 

Big  Tunrook  is  the  chief  of  the  islands  in  Vnir'  tay,  and  is  about  2  M.  long  It 
contains  5(H)  inhabitants,  who  are  engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Between  this 
point  and  Mt.  Aspotogon  is  Little  Tancook  Island,  '\'ith  60  inhabitants.  These 
islands  were  devastated,  in  1756,  by  the  Indians,  who  killed  several  of  the  settlers. 

*'  This  bay,  the  scenery  of  which,  for  picturesque  grandeur,  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  landscape  in  America,  is  about  10  M  broad  and  12  deep,  and  contains  within  it 
a  multitude  of  beautiful  wooded  islands,  which  were  probably  never  counted,  but 
are  said  to  exceed  200." 

^oon  after  the  Yarmouth  stage  leaves  Chester  "  we  come  to  Chester 
Basin,  island-gemmed  and  indented  with  many  a  little  cove;  and  far  out 
to  fea,  looming  up  in  solitary  grandeur,  is  Aspotogon,  a  mountain  head- 
land said  ^o  be  the  highest  land  in  Nova  Scotia  ( V  ).  The  road  follows  the 
shore  for  many  a  mile,  and  then  turns  abruptly  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Gold  River,  the  finest  of  all  the  salmon  streams  of  this  grand  locality.  In 
it  there  are  eleven  glorious  pools,  all  within  2  M.  of  each  other,  and  others 
for  several  miles  above  at  longer  intervals." 

Mahone  Bay  (Victoria  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  800  ir habitants,  situated  on 
a  pretty  cove  about  17  M.  from  Chester.  It  has  4  churches,  and  its  inhab- 
itants are  mostly  engaged  in  fishing  and  the  lumber-trade.  In  the  vicinity 
are  several  other  populous  German  settlement-?,  and  7  M.  S.  is  LunenlMir;i 
^seo  page  118).  This  point  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of 
Mushnmmh.  and  was  fortified  bv  the  liritish  in  ].764. 

The  stage  now  traverses  a  dreary  inland  region,  inhabited  by  German*. 
and  soon  reaches  Bridgewater  (Fairvieto  I/uirl),  a  village  on  the  Laliave 
River,  13  M.  from  the  sea.  It  has  1,000  inhabitants  and  4  churches,  and 
is  hugel}  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade,  exporting  staves  to  the  liiited 
States  and  the  West  Indies.  The  scenery  of  the  Lahave  River  is  at- 
tractive and  picturesque,  but  the  saw-mills  on  its  upper  waters  linve 
proved  fatal  to  the  fish  (see  page  119).  The  road  now  traverses  a  (li.-iiml 
region  for  18  M.,  when  it  reaches  Mill  Vlllofje  (small  hotel),  on  the  I'.irt 
Medway  River.     This  place  has  several  large  saw-mills  and  a  match- 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


Route  97. 


129 


factory,  and  its  population  numbers  about  400.  It  is  near  the  Doran  and 
Herringcove  Lakes,  and  is  6  M.  from  the  Third  Falls  of  the  Lahave.  9  M. 
S.  VV.  is  Liverpool  (see  pajije  120). 

From  Liverpool  to  Yarmouth  the  road  runs  along  the  heads  of  the  bays 
and  across  the  interveninoj  strps  of  land.  The  chief  stations  and  their 
distances  are  given  in  the  itinerary  on  page  126;  the  descriptions  of  the 
towns  may  be  found  in  Route  25. 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes. 

This  system  of  inland  waters  is  most  easily  reached  (W)m  Ilalifiix  or  St.  John 
by  passing  to  Annapolis  Royal  and  there  taking  the  stage  which  leaves  at  6  A.  M. 

diiitv. 

L>l»tanre8.  —  Annapolis;  Milford,14  M. ;  Maitland,27;  Northfield,30  ;  Kempt, 
35;  Brool^ileld,  41;  Caledonia  Corner;  Greenfield  (Pouhook),  50;  Middlefield,  56; 
Liverpool,  70. 

Soon  after  leaving  Annapolis  the  stage  enters  the  valley  of  Allen's  River, 
which  is  followed  toward  the  long  low  range  of  the  South  Mt.  At  AfilJ'ord 
(small  inn)  the  upper  reservoirs  of  the  Liverpool  River  are  met,  and  from 
this  point  it  is  possible  to  descend  in  -anoes  or  flat-bottomed  boats  to  the 
town  of  Liverpool,  60  M.  distant.  If  a  competent  guide  can  be  secured 
at  Milford  this  trip  can  be  nuide  with  safety,  and  will  open  up  rare  fishing- 
grounds.  The  lakes  are  nearly  all  bordered  by  low  and  rocky  shore?,  with 
hill-ranges  in  the  distance;  and  flow  through  regions  which  are  as  yet  but 
little  vexed  by  the  works  of  man.  The  trout  in  these  waters  are  abundant 
and  not  too  coy ;  though  better  fishmg  is  found  in  proportion  to  the  dis- 
tance to  which  the  southern  forest  is  ent(3red.  Mr.  McClelland  has  been 
tlje  best  guide  from  Milford,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  he  will  be  avail- 
able this  summer. 

Queen's  and  Lunenburg  Counties  form  "  the  lake  region  of  Nova  Scotia. 
All  that  it  lacks  is  the  grand  old  mountains  to  make  it  physically  as  at- 
tractive as  the  Adirondack?,  while  as  for  game  and  fish  it  is  in  every  way 
infinitely  superior.  Its  rivers  are  short,  but  they  flow  with  full  volume 
to  the  sea,  and  yield  abundantly  of  salmon,  trout,  and  sea-trout.  Its  lakes 
swarm  with  trout,  and  into  many  of  them  the  salmon  ascend  to  spawn, 
.md  are  dipped  and  speared  by  the  Indians  in  large  nun bers."  (Hal- 
lock.) 

"  In  the  hollows  of  the  highlands  are  likewise  embosomed  lakes  of  every  variety 
of  form,  and  often  quite  isolated.  Deep  and  iutens«>ly  blue,  their  shores  fringed 
with  rock  bowlders,  and  generally  coutHlnlug  several  islandn,  they  do  much  to  di- 
viTsifv  the  monotony  of  the  forest  by  their  frequency  and  picturesque  scenery." 
(L'apt.  Hardy.) 

The  Liverpool  road  is  rugged,  and  leads  through  a  region  of  almost  un- 
broken forests.  Beyond  Milford  it  runs  S.  E.  down  the  valleys  of  the 
Hoot  Lake  and  Fisher's  Lake,  with  dark  forests  and  ragged  clearings  on 
either  side.  Maitland  is  a  settlement  of  about  400  inhabitants,  and  a  few 
miles  beyond  is  Northfield,  whence  a  forest^road  leads  S.  W.  6  M.  to  the 
6*  I 


1  ■'.; 


ft 


Sv^ 


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ill 

\n 

f.    ■  \ 

i "  j 


ft 


1 30      Roxite  97. 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


shore  of  Fairy  Lake,  or  the  Frozen  Ocean,  a  beautiful  island-strewn  sheet 
of  water  4  M.  long.    J.  M.  Monro,  of  Maitland.  is  a  pood  guide. 

The  road  now  enters  Broohfield,  the  centre  of  the  new  faiTnino;  settle- 
ments of  the  North  District  of  Queen's  County.  Several  roads  diverge 
hence,  and  in  the  vicinity  the  lakes  and  tributaries  of  the  Liverpool  aiul 
Port  Medway  Rivers  are  curiously  interlaced  5-6  M.  S.  K.  is  the  J/rf/r^^a 
Lake,  which  is  5  M.  long  and  has  several  pretty  islands  The  road  passes 
on  to  Greenjiekl,  a  busy  lumbering-village  at  the  outlet  of  Port  Medway 
Great  Lake.  This  long-drawn-out  sheet  of  water  is  also  skirted  by  tlie 
other  road,  which  runs  S.  from  Brooktield  through  Caledonia  Corner 
(small  inn).  The  Ponhook  Road  is  S.  W.  of  Greenfield  and  runs  down 
through  the  forest  to  the  outlet  of  Ponhook  Lake,  '  the  headquarters  of 
the  Micmacs  and  of  all  the  salmon  of  the  Liverpool  River  "  This  Lidian 
village  is  the  place  to  get  guides  who  are  tireless  and  are  familiar  with 
every  rod  of  the  lake-district  From  this  point  a  canoe  voj'age  of  about 
8  M.  across  the  Ponhook  Lakes  leads  the  voyager  into  the  great  *  Lake 
Bossignol,  which  is  12  M.  long  by  8  M  wide,  and  affords  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  sights  in  Nova  Scotia. 

"A  glorious  view  was  unfolded  as  we  left  the  run  and  entered  the  still  water  of 
the  lake.  The  breeze  fell  riipidlv  with  the  sun  and  enabled  us  to  steer  towards  the 
centre,  from  which  alone  the  size  of  the  lake  could  be  appretia ted,  owing  to  the 
number  of  the  islands.  These  were  of  every  imaginable  shajje  and  size,  —  from  the 
grizzly  rock  beariiipr  a  solita.'v  ptunted  pine,  shaggy  with   Usnea,  to  those  of  a  mile 

in  length,  thickly  wooded  wiiu  maple,  beech,  and  birches Here  and  there  a 

bright  spot  of  white  sand  formed  a  beach  tempting  for  a  di.'ienibarkation  ;  and  fre- 
quent sylvan  scenes  of  an  almost  fairy -land  character  opened  up  as  we  coasted  along 
the  shores,  —  little  harbors  almost  closed  in  from  the  lake,  overgrown  with  wator- 
lilies,  arrow-heads,  and  other  aquatic  plants,  with  mossy  banks  backed  by  bo.sky 
groves  of  hemlocks.''     (('apt.  H.\rdy.) 

At  the  foot  of  Lake  Rossignol  i :  a  wide  oak -opening,  with  a  fine  greensward  under 
proves  of  white  oaks  Near  this  point  the  Liverpool  River  tlows  out,  passing  several 
islets,  and  affording  good  trout-tishing.  In  and  about  this  oak-opening  was  the 
chief  village  of  the  ancient  Micmacs  of  this  region  ;  and  here  are  thdr  nearly  oblit- 
erated burying-grounds.  The  site  is  now  a  favorite  resort  for  hunting  and  fishing 
parties.  The  name  Ponhook  means  "  the  first  lake  in  a  chain  "  ;  and  these  shores 
are  one  of  the  few  districts  of  the  vast  domains  of  Migginndhgf'e,  or  "  Micn\uc 
Land,"  that  remain  in  the  po.'jsession  of  the  aborigines.  From  ' 'onhook  12  lakes 
may  be  entered  by  canoes  without  making  a  single  portage. 

From  Lake  Rossignol  the  sportsman  may  visit  the  long  chain  of  the 
8e(/um-Se(ja  Lakes,  entered  from  a  stream  on  the  N.  \V.  shore  (several 
portages),  and  may  thence  ascend  to  the  region  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  into 
Shelburne  County.  The  Indian  Gardens  mny  also  be  visited  thence,  af- 
fording many  attractions  for  riflemen.  The  Micmacs  of  Ponhook  are  the 
best  guides  to  the  remoter  parts  of  the  forest.  There  are  several  gentle- 
men in  the  town  of  Liverpool  who  have  traversed  these  ])leasant  solitude*, 
and  they  will  aid  fellow-sportsmen  loyally.  The  Indian  village  is  only 
about  16  M.  from  Liverpool,  by  a  road  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river. 

Liverpool,  see  page  120.  The  Nova-Scotia  Central  Railway  leads  from 
Middleton  to  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes,  and  across  to  Uridgewater  aud  Lu- 
nenburg.   There  are  steamers  on  Malaga  and  Ponhook  Lakes, 


CHEZZETCOOK. 


Route  i8. 


131 


28.   Hali&x  to  Tangier. 


The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Halifax  at  6  a.  m.  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Fri- 
day (returning  the  alternate  days  ,  for  the  villages  along  the  Atlantic  slioi-e  to  the 
K.  The  conveyance  is  not  good,  and  the  roads  are  sometimes  in  bad  condition,  but 
there  is  i)rctty  coast-scenery  along  the  route 

Distances.  —  Halifax;  Dartmouth;  Porter's  Lake  (Tnnis's),  IH  M  :  t'liezz.et- 
cook  Road  (Ormon's),  18;  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  28;  Lakevilie  (Webber's),  40; 
Ship  Harbor,  46 ;  Tangier,  60  ;  Sheet  Harbor,  80  ;  Beaver  Harbor,  90. 

After  leaving  Dartmoutli,  tlie  stage  runs  E.  through  a  hike-strewn  coun- 
tiv,  and  passes  near  the  gold-mines  of  Montague.  Beyond  tlie  Little 
Siilnion  River  it  traverses  Preston,  with  the  gold-bearing  district  of 
Lawrencetovvn  on  the  S.  The  mines  and  placer-washings  at  this  point 
drew  large  and  enthusiastic  crowds  of  adventurers  in  1861-62,  but  they 
are  now  nearly  abandoned.  The  road  rounds  the  N.  end  of  Echo  Lake 
and  ascends  a  ridge  beyond,  after  which  it  crosses  the  long  and  river-like 
expsuise  of  Porter's  Lake,  and  runs  through  the  post-village  of  the  same 
iiHine.  3-4  M.  to  the  S.  E  is  Chezzetcook  Harbor,  with  its  long  shores 
lined  with  settlements  of  the  Acadian  P'rench,  whereof  Cozzens  writes:  — 

"  But  we  are  again  in  the  Acadian  forest ;  let  us  enjoy  the  scenery.  The  road  we 
are  on  is  but  a  few  miles  from  the  sea-shore,  but  the  ocejin  is  hidden  from  view  by 
tlie  thick  woods.  As  we  ride  along,  liowever,  we  skirt  the  edges  of  coves  and  inletti 
tliat  frequently  break  in  upon  the  landscape.  Then?  is  a  chain  of  fresh-water  lakeH 
also  along  this  road.  Sonjetimes  we  cross  a  bridge  over  a  rushing  torrent ;  some- 
tunes  a  calm  expanse  of  water,  doubling  the  evergreens  at  its  margin,  comes  into 
view  ;  anon  a  gleam  of  sapphire  strikes  through  the  verdure,  and  an  ocean-bay  with 
its  shingly  beach  curves  in  and  out  between  tlie  piny  slopes." 

Here  "  the  water  of  the  harbor  has  an  intensity  of  color  rarely  seen,  except  in 
the  pictures  of  the  niost  ultramarine  painters.  Mere  and  there  a  gn>en  island  or  a 
tisliing-boat  rested  upon  the  surface  of  tlie  tninquil  blue.  For  miles  and  miles  the 
eye  fnliowed  indented  grassy  slopes  that  rolled  away  on  either  side  of  tlie  harbor, 
and  tlie  most  delicate  pencil  could  scarcely  portray  the  exquisite  line  of  creamy  sand 
thiit  skirted  their  edges  and  melted  off  in  the  '•lear  margin  of  the  water.  Occasional 
little  cottages  nestle  among  tliese  green  banks,  —  not  the  Acadian  liouses  of  the 
prnMii,  'with  thatched  root's   and   dormer-windows    projecting,'  but   comfortable, 

lioiiiely-looking  buildings  of  modern  shapes,  shingled  and  un-weathercocked 

The  women  of  Chezzetcook  appear  at  daylight  in  the  city  of  Halifax,  and  as  soon  as 
the  sun  is  up  vanish  like  the  dew  They  have  usually  a  basket  of  fresh  eggs,  a  brace 
or  two  of  worsted  socks,  a  bottle  of  fir  baLsani,  to  sell.  These  comprise  their  simple 
coninu'iTe  " 

Chezzetcook  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1740,  but  was  abandoned  during  the 
long  subse(iuent  wars.  Alter  the  British  conquest  and  pacification  of  Acadia,  many 
of  tlie  old  families  i\  turned  to  their  former  iioiiies,  and  ('hezzetcook  was  re-occupied 
by  its  early  settlers.  They  formed  an  agricultural  community,  and  grew  rapidly 
in  jirosperity  and  in  numbers.  Th«>re  are  about  250  f  iinilies  now  resident  about  the 
li.iy,  preserving  tae  names  and  language  and  many  of  the  primitive  customs  of  the 
Acadians  of  the  Ba.>iu  of  Minas.     (See  pages  108  and  113.) 

The  road  passes  near  the  head  of  Chezzetcook  Harbor,  on  the  r.,  and 
tlien  turns  N.  E.  between  the  blue  waters  of  Chezzetcook  Croat  Lake  ( 1.) 
and  Pepiswick  Lake  (r.).  The  deep  inlet  of  Mus(/uo<(oboit  llnrbor  is  soon 
reached,  and  its  head  is  crossed.  This  is  tl  e  harbor  where  Capt.  Hardy 
nuule  his  pen-picture  of  this  romantic  coast:  — 

"Notliing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  scenery  in  some  of  the  Atlantic  harbors  of 
Nova  Scotia,  —  their  innumerable  islands  and  heavily-wooded  shores  fringed  with 


f  4 


132        Route  £8. 


TANGIER. 


the  golden  kelp,  the  wild  undulating  hills  of  maple  rising  in  the  background,  the 
patches  of  meadow,  aud  neat  little  white  Hhauties  of  the  fishermen's  clearings,  .... 
the  fir  woods  of  the  we.stern  shores  bathed  in  the  morning  sunbeams,  the  perfect 
reflection  of  tic  i-slan  i.s  aud  of  the  little  flshiug-schooners,  the  wre:iths  of  blue 
smoke  rising  from  their  cabin  stoves,  and  the  roar  of  the  distant  rapids,  where  the 
river  joins  the  harbor,  borne  in  cadence  on  the  ear,  mingled  with  the  cheerful 
sounds  of  awakening  life  from  the  clearing.s." 

Neur  Musquodoboit  are  8'  me  valuable  gold-mines,  with  two  powerful 
quartz-crushing  mills,  and  several  moderately  rich  lodes  of  auriferous 
quartz.  The  stage  soon  reaches  the  W.  arm  of  Jeddwe  Harlxtr,  and  then 
crosses  the  Le  Marchant  Bridge.  The  district  of  Jeddore  has  1,623  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  or  the  coasting  trade, 
alternating  these  employments  with  lumbering  and  shipbuilding.  A  long 
tract  of  wilderness  is  now  traversed,  and  Ship  Harbor  is  reached.  A  few 
miles  N.  W.  is  the  broad  xponse  of  Ship  Harbor  Luke,  reaching  nearly 
to  the  Boar's  Baci  "^id  and  having  a  length  of  12-14  M.  and  a  width 
of  2-4  M.  To  ti  »  a  V  the  hills  whence  falls  the  Tangier  River,  to 
which  the  Indians  •  •  tij  onomatopoetic  name  of  Ahviaffopakegeek, 
which  signifies  " tumbling  o,  .  the  rocks."  The  post-road  now  enters 
the  once  famous  gold-bearing  district  of  Tanyitr. 

These  mines  were  opened  in  1860,  and  speedily  became  widely  renowned,  attract- 
ing thousands  of  adventurers  from  all  parts  of  tlie  Atlantic  coast.  For  miles  the 
ground  was  honeycou.bed  with  pits  aud  shtilts,  and  the  excited  men  worked  with- 
out intermission.  But  the  gold  was  not  found  in  masses,  aud  only  patience  and 
hard  work  could  extract  a  liu.ited  quantity  from  the  quartz,  so  the  crowd  became 
discontented  and  went  to  the  new  fields.  Lucrative  shore-wa.  hings  were  enguguil  in 
for  somo  time,  and  a  stray  nugget  of  Tangier  gold  w  eighing  27  ounces  was  shown  in 
the  Dublin  Exposition.  This  district  covers  about  30  square  miles,  and  has  12  UhIcs 
of  auriferous  quartz.  Tlie  South  Lode  is  the  most  valuable,  and  appears  to  gi-ow 
richer  as  it  descends.  The  mines  are  now  being  worked  by  two  small  companies, 
aud  their  average  yield  is  $  400-500  per  miner  each  year. 

Beyond  Tangier  and  Pope's  Bay  the  post-road  passes  the  head  of  Spry 
Bay^  and  then  the  head  of  Mushaboon  Harbor,  and  reaches  Sheet  JJarbur 
(Farnal's  Hotel).  This  is  a  small  shipbuilding  village,  at  the  head  of  the 
long  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  is  at  the  outlets  of  the  Middle  and 
North  Rivers,  famous  for  their  fine  salmon  fisheries. 

Sherbrooke*  see  page  133. 

Considerable  interest  attaches  to  Sherbronke  in  theeyesof  the  sportsman  as  being 
in  the  centre  and  hcad<iUiirters  of  one  of  the  finest  nngling-districts  in  An  eiicu. 
The  atil twatt-r  of  St .  Slary's  /iirtr,  3  M.  from  t^lierlipooke,  fronnnid-Ma\  to  mid- 
July,  is  the  yearly  resort  of  numbers  of  military  and  private  j^entl.nien  from  liiiJit'.ix, 
who  indulge  in  the  noble  sport  ot  angling  for  salmon.  VUh  weighing  3S  lbs.  Iiave 
been  frequently  taken  wUh  the  tiy.  AugUug  for  trout  begins  July  10,  and  con- 
tinues till  Nov.  1  W.  of  St.  Miiry's  liiver,  and  within  8  M.,  a»e  the  Gej^oguin  and 
Gaspereaux  Brooks,  both  celebr.ited  for  their  trout ;  at  the  latter  stream  sea  trout 
of  6  lbs.  weijxht  have  been  taUen.  hi.  of  St.  Mary's  liiver  are  the  Intliun  Lakex, 
and  Indian  Ki\er,  —the  latter  licinfr  ditfieult  of  access,  bui  probably  the  best  fish- 
ing-stream in  ea.»tern  Novu  Sentia.     It  is  [)  M   from  Sherbrooke. 

The  name  .S7.  A/ari/'n  wis  ^'iveu  to  this  District  by  the  French.  At  Sherbrooke, 
when  first  settled  by  the  Lngiish  LoyaUsts,  there  were  found  the  remains  of  a  stouo 
fo.'*t,  built  to  coumiaud  the  upproach  to  the  M-ttleuient  by  the  river. 

btages  leave  Sheet  Harbor  at  6  a.  M.,  Tuesd:iy.  Thursday,  nnd  Saturday  (return- 
ing Hlternate  days)  for  Salmoa  liiver,  1(3  M  ;  Mario  Joseph,  3j  ;  Ll.sconib,  50  :  nnd 
8h«rbicoke.  61. 


GUYSBOROUGH. 


Route  29.        133 


29.   The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia. 

This  district  is  reached  by  passing  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway  (see  Houtes  16 
aud  17)  Iroiu  St.  Jotin  or  Htilit'ux  to  New  Qtasgow,  and  thence  taking  the 
Railway  to  Antigouish  (see  Route  32). 

From  Aiiti^onisli  a  daily  sta^e  d»'parts  after  the  arrival  of  trains  ^o- 
ing  E.,  running  ^8  M.  8.  (fare,  $>2.50)  to  Sherbrooke  {Sfieibrimke 
Ilutd;  CaltduHKi  Jlottl,  —  both  with  livery-stables — see  also- page  i:{-2), 
a  village  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  the  largest  river  in  Nova 
Scotin,  and  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  that  stream.  It  is  engtiged  in 
sliipbuilding  and  in  the  exportation  of  deals  and  lumber.  The  town  de- 
rives considerable  interest  from  the  fact  that  in  the  vicinity  is  one  of  the 
broadest  and  most  prolific  gold-fields  in  the  I'rovince.  Goldennlle  is  3  M. 
from  Sherbrooke,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the  St.  Mary's  on  a  long  bridge. 
This  district  covers  18  square  miles,  and  is  the  richest  in  the  Province, 
having  yielded  as  high  as  $2,000  per  man  per  year,  or  about  three  times 
the  average  production  of  the  best  of  the  Australian  m'  js.  The  aurifer- 
ous lodes  are  operated  at  Goldenville  only,  where  there  .  ''e  vera!  quartz- 
crushers  on  a  large  scale.  These  mines  were  discov  "ed  -n  1861,  and  on 
the  first  day  over  $500  worth  of  gold  was  found  here.  Systematic  mining 
operations  were  soon  commenced,  and  the  yield  of  the  t  ■'ecious  metal  has 
since  been  very  satisfactory. 

The  Wine-Harbor  Gold-field  is  sevenil  miles  .S.  E.  of  She.  orooke,  near  the  mouth 
oftlie  St.  Mary's  River.  The  average  yield  per  ton  is  8inaU,yct  the  breadth  and 
continuity  of  the  loJcs  renders  the  work  easy  and  certain.  Tiiis  district  is  seamed 
with  abandoned  shafts  and  tunnels,  one  of  which  is  7<10  ft.  long.  The  first  discovery 
of  gold  was  made  in  1860  in  the  sands  of  the  se{i-.diore,  and  the  quartz  lo<les  on  the 
N.  K.  side  of  the  harbor  were  soon  ojM'ned  Of  1  iter  years  the  Wine-IIarbor  district 
has  i^reatly  declined  in  popularity  and  productiveness, 

Tlie  Stormont  Gold-fields  are  36  M.  N.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  and  are  most  easily 
reached  by  direct  conveyance  from  Antigonish.  Gold  was  discovere<i  here  by  the 
Indians  in  1861,  and  occurs  in  thick  layers  of  quartz.  Owing  to  its  remoteness, 
tills  region  has  remained  undeveloped,  and  its  total  yield  in  1869  was  but  227  ounces 
('ii4,u40).  The  chief  village  in  the  district  is  at  the  hej»d  oi  Country  Harbor,  a  pic- 
tuH'sque  arm  of  the  sea,  8  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide.  There  are  fine  opportunities 
for  shooting  and  fishing  among  the  adjaoent  bays  and  higiilands.  All  this  shore 
was  settled  in  1783  -  4  by  Loyalists  ftom  North  atid  South  Carolina. 


i 


S: 


m 
■:;.;1 


I-/1 


Guysborotiyh  owl  Cnpe  Canso. 

Guysborough  (GmnVs  JJotd)  is  reached  by  daily  mail-stages  from 
Heatiierton,  on  the  Halifax  tS:  Cape  Breton  Railway.  After  leaving  the 
valley  of  the  South  Kivur,  the  road  passes  thr<»ugh  a  rough  and  hilly  region, 
Hud  descends  through  the  Intervale  Settlement  and  Manchester  to  Guys- 
bdidugh,  a  marine  village  at  the  hea<l  of  Cbedabucto  liay.  It  has  about 
1,700  inhabitants,  with  a  prosperous  academy,  and  is  the  capital  of  Gays- 
borough  County  (named  in  honor  of  Sir  Guy  ('arleton).  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries,  and  has  a  good  and  spacious  harbor.  The 
noble  anchorage  of  Milford  Haven  lies  between  lUe  town  and  the  b»v. 


134        RmiteSO. 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


I 


A  dtrong  po8t  was  established  at  Chedabucto,  on  the  site  of  Ouysborough  in  1G86, 
by  M.  Denys,  who  had  spaciouB  warehouses  and  a  strong;  fort  here,  togicther  wirli 
120  men.  Here  be  received  and  supported  the  exiled  cliildreii  of  D'Aulnay  Cliur- 
nisay ;  and  here  also  he  was  viiinly  besieged  for  sevenil  duys  by  l^ii  Oiraudierc  and 
100  men  from  Canso  In  1(590  the  works  wcirc  held  by  De  Montorj^uenil,  and  were 
bravely  defended  against  th«i  attu  ks  of  the  New-England  army  under  t^ir  Wiliiiitu 
Phipps.  Finally,  when  the  ItuMdinps  of  the  fort  were  all  in  Hanies  about  him,  the 
gallant  Frenchman  surrendennl,  and  was  sent  to  I'larentiii  with  his  soldiers.  The 
ruins  of  the  ancient  fort  uro  now  to  be  tnu-ed  near  the  mouth  of  the  harbor. 

A  bold  ri^ge  runs  31  M.  E.  from  Guysborough  iilong  the  S.  shore  of  Ched- 
abucto Bay  to  Cape  Canso,  the  most  easterly  point  of  Nova  Scotia.  A 
road  follows  the  course  of  the  bay  to  the  fishing-village  of  Cajjc  Canso, 
which  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  and  enjoys  a  profitable  little  export 
trade.  Several  islands  lie  otF  this  extreme  point  of  Nova  Scotia,  one  of 
which  bears  two  powerful  white  lights  and  a  fog-whistlei  Canso  Harbor 
is  marked  by  a  fixed  red  light  which  is  visible  for  12  M. 

White  Haven  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the  great  peninsula  of  Wilmot,  80  M.  from 
Guysborough,  and  is  a  small  fishing  settlement  situated  on  one  of  the  finest  bays  uu 
the  American  coast.  It  was  originally  intended  to  have  the  Intercolonial  Kailwiiy 
terminate  here,  and  connect  with  the  transatlantic  steamships.  The  harbor  is  ea.sy 
of  access,  of  capacious  breadth,  and  free  from  ice  in  winter.  Its  £.  point  is  White 
Head,  usually  the  first  land  seen  by  ves.-els  crossing  from  Europe  in  this  upper  lati- 
tude, on  which  is  a  fixed  white  light.  Just  W.  of  White  Haven  \a  the  flfihermeu'd 
hamlet  of  Molasses  Harbor ^  near  tlie  broad  bight  of  Tor  Bay. 


'J 


1 


30.    Sable  Island. 

The  Editor  inserts  the  following  sketch  of  this  remotest  outpost  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  hoping  that  its  quaint  character  may  make  amends  for  its  uselessness  to 
the  summer  tourist.  It  may  also  be  of  service  to  voyagers  on  these  coasts  who  should 
chance  to  be  ca«t  away  on  the  island,  since  no  one  likes  to  be  landed  suddenly  in  a 
strange  country  without  liaviug  some  previous  knowledge  of  the  reception  he  may 
get. 

A  regular  line  of  communication  has  recently  been  established  between  SaMe 
Island  and  Halifax.  The  boats  run  once  a  yoar,  and  are  chartered  by  the  Cauudiuu 
government  to  carry  provisions  and  stores  to  the  lighthouse  people  and  patrols, 
and  to  bring  back  the  persons  who  may  have  been  wrecked  there  during  the  pre- 
vious year. 

Sable  Island  is  about  90  M.  S.  E.  of  Cape  Canso.  It  is  a  barren  ex- 
panse of  sand,  without  trees  or  thickets,  and  is  constantly  swept  by  storms, 
under  whose  powerful  pressure  the  whole  aspect  of  the  land  change.-*,  by 
the  shifting  of  the  low  dunes.  The  only  products  of  this  arid  shore  are 
cranberries,  immense  quantities  of  which  arc  found  on  the  lowlands. 

*'  Should  any  one  be  visiting  the  island  now,  he  might  see,  about  10  M.  distance, 
looking  seaward,  half  a  dozen  low  dark  hummocks  on  the  horizon.  As  he  ap- 
proaches, they  gradually  resolve  themselves  into  hills  fringed  by  breakers,  and  \>\ 
and  by  the  white  sea-V)each  with  its  continued  surf,  —  the  sand-hills,  part  nukod, 
part  waving  in  grass  of  the  dee|)est  green,  unfold  themselves,  — a  hou.«e  and  a  barn 
dot  the  wesU'rn  extremity,  —  here  and  there  along  the  wild  beach  lie  the  ribs  of  uu- 
lucky  traders  half  buried  in  the  shifting  sand Nearly  the  first  thing  the  vis- 
itor does  is  to  moimt  the  flag-staff,  and,  climbing  into  the  crow's-nest,  scan  the  seem- 
The  ocean  bounds  him  everywhere.  Spread  east  and  west,  he  views  the  narrow 
island  in  form  of  a  bow,  as  if  the  great  Atlantic  waves  had  bent  it  around,  nowhiTe 
much  above  1  M.  wide,  26  M.  long,  including  the  dry  bars,  and  holding  a  shallow 
lake  13  M.  long  in  its  centre.   There  it  all  lies  spread  like  a  map  at  bis  feet,  —  grassy 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


Route  SO.       1 35 


bill  and  flandy  valley  fading  away  into  tlie  distance.  On  the  foreground  the  outpoft 
mon  galloping  tlieir  rougli  ponies  into  lieiidquarterM,  recalled  by  the  flag  flying  over 
his  lieii'i;  the  West-end  lioutm  of  refuge,  with  bread  and  matches,  firewood  and 
kettle,  and  directions  to  find  water,  and  headquarters  with  flag-t4tatl'  on  the  adjoin- 
iiv;  iiili.  Kvery  sandv  peak  or  grassy  knoll  witli  a  dead  mans  name  or  old  sliip's 
tradition, —  Maker's  Hill,  Trotts  Cove,  Se()t<-hman"s  Head,  Frencii  (Jardens,  —  tra- 
ilitiinary  spot  wiiere  tiie  poor  convicts  expiated  their  soeial  crimes, — the  little 
luiri;il-gronii.l  ne-tliiij^  i.i  tiie  long  grass  of  a  higii  hill,  and  conseeraU'd  to  tiie  re- 
nti-e  (it  many  a  sea-to^.-^ed  liiiib  ;  and  2-3  M.  down  the  shallow  lake,  the  South-side 
house  and  barn,  and  stalVaud  boats  lying  on  the  lake  beside  the  door.  9  .M.  furtlier 
down,  by  the  aid  of  a  glass,  lie  may  view  the  tlag-statfat  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  6 
M.  farther  the  East-end  lookout,  with  its  stall"  and  watch-house  Herds  of  wild 
ponies  dot  the  hills,  and  black-duck  and  sheldrakes  an'  heading  their  young  broods 
(III  the  mirror-like  ponds.  Seals  innumerable  are  basking  on  the  warm  sands,  or 
pile  I  like  ledges  of  rock  along  the  shores.  The  Glasgow's  bow,  the  MaskonemtCs 
sfern,  the  East  Boston's  hulk,  and  the  grinning  ribs  of  the  well-fastened  Guith,  ure 
f^potting  the  sands,  each  svith  its  tale  of  l;J8t  adventui-e,  hardships  p.issed,  and  toil 
eiiiiured.  The  whole  picture  Is  set  in  a  silver-frosted  frame  of  rolling  surf  and  sea- 
ribbed  sand  "' 

"  Mounted  upon  his  hardy  pony,  the  solitary  patrol  starts  upon  his  lonely  way. 
He  rides  up  the  centre  valleys,  ever  and  anon  mounting  a  grassy  hill  to  look  sea- 
ward, reaches  the  West-end  bar,  sp«!culates  upon  perchauie  a  broken  spar,  an  empty 
bottle,  or  a  cask  of  beef  strjiggling  in  the  land-w:ish,  —  now  fords  the  shaliow  lake, 
looking  well  for  his  land-range,  to  escape  the  hole  where  H  iker  was  dro»vned  ;  and 
roniing  on  the  breeding-ground  of  the  countless  birds,  his  pony's  hoof  with  a  reck- 
less -iina-ih  goes  crunching  through  a  dozen  eggs  or  callow  young.  He  fairly  putH 
his  pony  to  her  mettle  to  escape  the  cloud  of  angry  birds  which,  arising  in  countless 
numbers,  dent  his  weather-beaten  tarpaulin  with  their  sharp  bills,  and  snap  his 
jtonv's  ears,  and  confuse  him  with  their  sharp,  shrill  cries.  Ten  minutes  more,  and 
he  is  holding  hard  to  count  the  seals.  There  they  lay,  old  wean's  flocks,  resting 
their  wave  tossed  limbs, — great  o;ean  bulls,  and  cows,  and  calves."     (Dr.  J.  B. 

(ilLlM.N.) 

For  over  a  century  Sable  Island  has  been  fimous  for  its  wild  horses.  They  num- 
ber perhaps  400,  and  are  divided  into  gings  which  are  under  the  leadership  of  the 
old  males.  They  resemble  the  Mexican  or  Ukraine  wild  horses,  in  their  large  heads, 
shag:.ty  necks,  sloping  quarters,  padiling  gait,  and  chestnut  oi  piebald  colors  Once 
a  >  ear  the  droves  are  all  herded  by  daring  horsemen  into  a  large  pound,  where  20  or  30 
of  rlie  best  are  taken  out  to  be  sent  to  Nova  Scotia.  After  the  horses  chosen  for  ex- 
porUition  are  lassoed  and  secured,  the  remainder  are  turned  loose  again. 


Since  Sable  Island  was  first  sighted  by  Cabot,  in  1497,  it  has  been  an  object  of 
terror  to  mariners.  Several  vessels  of  D'Anville's  French  Armada  were  lost  here; 
and  among  the  many  wrecks  in  later  days,  the  chief  have  been  those  of  the  ocean 
steamship  Georgia  and  ti»e  French  frigite  V Africainc. 

In  tiio  year  1583,  when  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  was  returning  from  Newfoundland 
(of  which' he  had  taken  possession  in  the  name  of  the  English  Crown),  his  little  fleet 
became  entangled  among  the  slioals  about  Sable  Island.  On  one  of  these  outlying 
l».irs  tiie  .ship  Delii^ht  struck  heavily  and  d  ished  her  stern  and  quarters  to  piei^es. 
The  otfleers  and  over  100  men  were  lost,  and  14  of  the  cresv,  after  drifting  about  in  a 
piiinaee  for  many  diys,  were  finally  rescued  The  other  ve.s.sels,  the  Sfjuirrel  and  the 
Uotf/fti  Hin'I,  bore  olf  to  .sea  and  .set  tneir  course  for  England.  But  when  olf  tiie 
Az  ires  tlu!  S'luirrel  was  sorely  tossed  by  a  tempest  (being  of  only  10  tons'  burden), 
ami  upon  her  deck  was  seen  Sir  Hump.irey  Gilbert  reading  a  b(X)k.  As  she  swept 
past  tue  Golden  HinrJ,t\m  brave  knight  cried  out  to  the  captain  of  the  latter: 
"  Courage,  my  lads,  we  are  as  near  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land."  About  midnight  the 
S(jiiirrfl  plunged  heavily  forward  into  tlie  trough  of  the  sea,  and  wentdo.vn  with 
all  on  board.  Thus  perished  tiiis  "  resolute  soldier  of  .lesus  Christ,  ....  one  of  the 
noblest  and  best  of  men  in  an  age  of  great  nw^n  " 

In  l.")ii8  a  futile  attempt  at  colonizing  Sable  Island  was  made  bv  "  L«  Sieur  Baron 
de  Loiiet  du  St.  Just,  Vit  mte  de  Gueu."  But  he  left  some  live-stock  here  that 
tifterw;ird'<  saved  many  lives. 

In  the  year  1598  the  Marquis  de  la  Roche  was  sent  by  Henri  IV.  to  America,  car- 
rying 'JOO'couvicls  from  tUe  Freach  prisons.    Ue  aetermia^U  to  found  «  wttlemeut 


136      Route  SI. 


NEW  GLASGOW. 


> 


on  Sable  iHland,  and  left  40  of  his  men  there  to  commence  the  work.  Soon  after, 
De  lu  Roche  wiwi  forced  bv  stresH  of  storm  to  return  to  France,  abandoning  theiw 
unfortunate  lotoniHts.  Without  food,  clothing,  or  wood,  they  cufftTcd  intens«-|y 
until  partial  relict' wan  brought  by  the  wrecking  of  a  French  ship  on  tlie  i.'<laiid.  For 
seven  yearH  they  dwelt  in  hutH  built  of  wricked  timber,  dressed  in  S4>(il-skin8,  atnl 
living  on  fish.  Tiien  King  Henri  IV.  fent  out  a  ship  under  Chedotcl,  and  the  I'J 
survivorH,  gaunt,  Hquulid,  and  long-bearded,  were  carried  back  toFrance,  wiiere  they 
were  pardoned  and  rewarded. 

An  attempt  wjis  made  ai)out  the  ndddle  of  the  16th  century  to  coloniw  Cape  Un- 
ton  in  the  interests  of  Hpain,  but  the  tieet  that  was  transporting  the  Spaniards  uiiil 
their  property  was  dashed  tu  pieces  on  tfable  Ittiaud. 


ii 


31.    St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Fictou. 

By  the  I'ictou  branch  Railway,  which  diverges  from  the  Intercolonial  Railway  at 
Truro.    A.80,  by  Oxford  &  Fictou  Short  Line. 

sttatloiis.  —  <S!(  John  to  Pktou.  St.  John  to  Truro,  214  M  ;  Valley,  219; 
Union,  ^^4 ;  Uiversdale,  228;  West  River,  236;  Glengarry.  243;  Hopewell,  250; 
Stellarton.  255  ;  Wecfville,  258  :  Sslvecter,  263  ;  Lochbroom.  266  ;  Pictou.  260. 

StatioiiH.  —  lialifar  to  Pirtou.  Halifax  to  Truro  G2  M. :  Vallev,66;  Union, 
71;  RiversdHle,  74;  West  River,  82:  (llengarry,  90  .  Hopewell,  97;  Stellarton,  li  2; 
Westville,  104;  Sylvester,  110;  Lochbroom,  112;  Pictou>  115. 

St.  John  to  Truro,  see  Routes  16  and  17. 

Halifax  to  Truro,  see  Route  17  (reversed). 

The  train  runs  K.  from  Truro,  and  soon  after  leaving  the  environs,  enttis 
a  comparatively  broken  and  uninteresting  region.  On  the  1.  are  the  roll- 
ing foot-hills  of  tlie  Cobequi<l  Range,  and  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  IJivcr 
is  fo. lowed  by  several  insignificant  forest  stations.  Eivtrsdale  is  surroiuxled 
by  a  pleasant  diversity  of  hill-seenery,  and  has  a  spool-factory  and  a  con- 
siderable lumber  trade.  14  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  thriving  Scottish  settlement 
of  Earltoivn.  Beyond  West  River  the  train  reaches  Glengarry^  whicii  is 
the  station  for  the  Scottish  villages  of  New  Lairg  and  Gairloch.  Hoptwdl 
(Hopewell  Hotel)  has  .small  woollen  and  spool  factories;  and  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  line  approaches  the  banks  of  the  East  River. 

Stellarton  is  the  station  for  the  great  Albion  Mines,  which  are  con- 
trolled (for  the  most  part)  by  the  General  Mining  Association,  of  London. 
There  is  a  populous  village  here,  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  connected 
with  the  mines.  The  coal-seams  extend  over  several  miles  of  area,  and 
are  of  remarkable  thickness.  They  are  being  worked  in  several  j)its,  and 
would  doubtless  return  a  great  revenue  in  case  of  the  removal  of  the  re- 
strictive trade  regulations  of  the  United  States.  In  ti.e  year  1864  over 
200,000  tons  of  coal  were  raised  from  these  mines. 

New  Glasgow  ( Vendome  Hotel)  has  4,000  inhabitants,  largely  engaged 
iu  shipbuilding  and  having  other  manufactures,  including  ioundnes 
and  tanneries,  steel  and  glass  works.  It  is  favorably  situated  on  the  East 
River,  and  has  large  coal-mines  in  the  vicinity.  Here  are  the  main  offices 
»nd  W.  terminus  of  the  railway,  running  75  M.  E.  to  the  Strait  of  Cause. 


PICTOU. 


Route  31.       137 


ent(M's 


Pieton  (New  Rerere  ffnnse;  Central  Ffmife)  \n  a  flotirishinp  town  on 
the  (lulf  shore,  with  3,000  inhabitants,  six  churches,  a  masonic  hull,  two 
woi'klv  papor!«,  the  public  buildings  of  I'ictou  roimty,  throe  banks, 
a  handsome  Y.  M.  (.'.A.  biiiMiniX,  and  tin;  Pirtou  Academy,  f()und(d  on 
the  plan  of  a  Scottish  Tnivj-rsity  in  18 IS.  and  ik)W  occupying'  a  lar/^'f  and 
liandxome  new  buiMinir,  with  museum.  library,  convocation  hall,  etc. 
The  harbor  is  the  finest  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  (Julf.  and  can  accommodate 
ships  of  any  burden,  having  a  depth  of  5-7  fathnnis.  The  town  occupies 
a  commandinj;  position  on  a  hillside  over  a  s'nall  cove  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  harbor;  and  nearly  opposite,  the  basin  is  divided  into  three  arms,  into 
which  flow  the  East,  Middle,  and  West  Rivers,  on  which  are  the  shij>- 
ping  wharves  of  the  Albion,  Intercolonial,  Acadia,  and  Vale  (^)al  Com- 
l<nnies,  whence  immense  quantities  of  coal  are  exported.  There  is  very 
pleasant  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Pictou,  and  good  sea-bathing  on  the 
adjacent  beaches. 

Pictou  has  a  large  coasting  trade:  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding;  and  has 
a  marine-railway.  It  has  also  tobacco-factories,  carding-mills,  several 
saw  and  grist  mills,  a  foundry,  and  three  or  four  tanneries.  But  the  chief 
business  is  connected  with  the  adjacent  mines  and  the  exportation  of  coal, 
and  with  the  large  freestone  quarries  In  the  vicinity. 

Stages  leave  Pictou  several  tline.<»  weekly,  for  River  .lohn,  Tatamagouche,  Wallace, 
Pugwash,  and  Amherst  (see  pipe  81).  Steamships  loave  (opposite)  IMotou  forOhar- 
lottefown,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  Friiav,  and  Saturday,  on  the  arrival  of  the  Tlal- 
iftx  train  (see  Route  44);  also  for  the  Oulf  ports  and  Quebec,  alternate  Monday 
evciiiiips  (s'-e  Route  66) ;  also  for  the  Magdalen  I>lauds  (see  Uoute  49) ;  and  for 
Souris  and  Georgetown,  P.  E.  I. 


.1 


:»»: 


jngaged 
}uudries 

he  East 
offices 

ilauso. 


After  the  divine  Glooscap  (see  page  106)  had  left  Newfoundland,  whore  lie  conferred 
upon  the  loons  the  power  of  weirdly  crying  when  t.»cv  necilcd  hi-«  aid,  he  landed  at 
Pictou  (from  Piktook,  an  Indian  word  meaning"  Bubbling,"'  or  •'Gas-exploding," 
and  referred  to  the  ebullitions  of  the  water  near  the  great  coal-beds).  Here  he 
crciited  the  tortoise  tribe,  in  this  wise  :  Great  festivals  and  games  were  mad(i  in  his 
honor  by  the  Indiana  of  Pictook,but  he  chosti  to  dwell  with  a  homely,  lazy,  and 
despised  old  bachelor  named  Mikchickh,  whom,  after  clotliiug  in  his  own  robe  and 
giving  liim  victory  in  the  games,  he  initiated  as  the  progenitor  and  king  of  all  the 
tortoises,  smoking  him  till  hia  coat  became  brown  and  aa  bard  as  bone,  and  then  re- 
ducing ins  size  by  a  rude  surgical  oijerition. 

The  site  of  Pictou  was  occui)ie  I  in  ancient  times  by  a  populous  Indian  village, 
and  in  1763  the  French  made  futile  prop-intiona  to  found  a  colony  here  In  1765, 
2i)0,'i(K)  acres  of  land  in  tiis  vicinity  were  granted  to  a  company  in  Philadelphia, 
w'lunrc  b mds  of  settlers  c  vme  i  \  1 767  -  71  Meantime  tlie  site  of  the  town  had  been 
given  to  an  army  officer,  who  in  turn  sold  it  for  a  horse  and  saddle.  The  Pennsyl- 
vanians  were  shearteued  at  t'lc  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  infertility  of  the 
.<f»il,  and  no  pn  .'.'css  wi-s  mide  in  the  new  colony  until  1773,  when  the  ship  Hector 
arrived  with  18!»  jiorsons  from  the  Scotti'^h  Highland*  They  were  brought  over  by 
tlie  Philadelphia  f<inipanv,  but  when  they  found  that  the  shore  lands  were  r'I 
t ikon,  they  refused  to  settle  on  the  company's  territory,  and  hence  the  agent  cut 
oiT  thoir  supply  of  provi«;ions.  They  sui>sisted  on  fish  and  venison,  with  a  little 
Hour  from  Truro,  until  the  next  spring,  when  they  sent  a  ship-load  of  pine-timber 
to  Britain,  and  planted  wheat  and  potsitoes.  Soon  afterwards  they  were  joined  by 
15  destitute  families  from  Dnnifriesahire  :  and  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  \Var 
many  disbanded  soldiers  settled  here  with  their  findlies.  In  1786  -he  Rev.  ,Iame« 
McGregor  came  to  Pictou  and  ma  e  a  home,  and  aA  he  was  a  powerful  preacher  in 


m 


1 38      Route  Si. 


ANTIGONISH. 


the  Gaelic  language,  many  Highlanders  finm  the  other  parts  of  the  Province  moved 
here,  and  new  immigrationR  Rriived  fW)m  Scotland.  In  1788  the  town  was  com- 
menced on  its  prt'sent  site  by  Deacon  Patterson,  and  in  1792  it  was  ninde  a  shiro- 
town.  OreaL  luantities  of  lumber  were  exported  to  Britain  between  18U6  and  lH2o, 
during  the  pjTiod  of  European  convulsion,  when  the  Baltic  ports  were  closed,  and 
while  the  British  navy  was  the  nmin  hope  of  the  nation.  The  place  was  captured  in 
1777  by  an  American  privateer.  Coal  was  discovered  here  in  1798,  but  the  exporta- 
tion was  small  until  1827,  when  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  iN'gan 
operations. 

J.  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D  ,  F.  R  8.,  was  born  at  Pictou  in  1820,  and  graduated  at  the 
University  of  liklinburgh  in  1840.  He  studied  and  travelled  with  Sir  Charles  L\ell, 
and  has  l)ecome  one  of  the  leaders  aniung  the  Christian  scientists.  His  greatest  wmk 
was  the  "  Acadian  Geology."  For  the  past  20  years  he  has  been  Principal  of  the 
McGill  College,  at  M'>ntreal. 

32.    St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  Cape 

Breton. 


This  comparatively  new  route  leave.-:  the  Intercolonial  R.ilway  (Pictou  Branch) 
at  New  Glasgow  (see  page  138),  104  M.  from  Halifax,  ami  258  M  from  St.  John,  and 
runs  down  lo  the  Strait  of  Can.so,  where  it  connects  with  a  steam  ferry-boat  to  (ape 
Breton,  and  vt-ith  steamboats  to  various  ports  on  the  island.  A  trip  eastward  by  this 
route,  and  a  voyage  on  the  Bras  d'Or,  gives  a  deeply  interesting  excursion. 

Stations.  —  New  Glasgow  to  Glenfalloch,  5^  M.  ;  Merigomish,  Of;  French 
River,  13J;  Piedmont,  18;  ,\vondaIe,  22  ;  Barney's  River,  23.};  Marshy  Hope,  26; 
James  River,  80.}  ;  Bri«!rly  Urook,  34};  Antigonish,  40  ;  South  River,  45  ;  Taylor's 
Roiid,  47;  Pomquet,  50;  Heatherton,  52i  ;  Afton,  50 ;  Tracadie,  GO:  Giroirs,  rd] ; 
Little  Tracadie,  65  ;  Harbor  au  Bouche,  t)i> ;  Cape  Porcupine,  09 ;  Strait  of  Canso, 
74. 

ExpreK;i-train8  run  daily,  leaving  New  Glasgow  after  the  arrival  of  the  train  from 
Halifax. 

On  reaching  the  open  country  beyond  New  Glit.sgow,  tlie  rond  passe?  on 
for  several  miles  through  an  unintt^iestinir  region  of  small  farms  andreciMit 
clearings.  Ai  the  crossing  of  the  Sutherland  liiver,  a  road  diverges  to  the 
N.  Iv,  leading  to  .\ffri(^oiniih^  a  shipbuilding  hamlet  on  the  coast,  with  a  snle 
and  well-sheltered  liMrl)or.  In  this  vicinity  are  iron  and  coal  deposits,  tiie 
latter  of  which  are  worked  by  the  Merigomish  Coal  Mining  Company,  with 
a  capital  of  $400,000.  Ileyond  the  hamlet  at  the  crossing  of  French  Hiver, 
—  "  which  may  have  seen  better  days,  and  will  probably  see  wor.«e,"  — 
the  road  ascends  a  long  ridge  which  overlooks  the  Piedmont  Valley  to  the 
N.  E.  'I'henco  it  descetids  through  a  snfTicioutly  dreary  country  to  the 
relay-house  at  Afdrsin/  flo/te. 

*'  The  sun  has  set  when  we  come  thund(>ring  down  info  the  pretty  Catholic  vlllnjte 
of  AlltlKonlHli,  tlie  nin<t  home-like  place  we  have  se«>n  on  the  island.  The  twin 
sloiu'  towepK  of  the  unflnislieil  caHu'dril  loom  up  hirge  in  the  fa.Mng  light,  hml  tlie 
bishop's  paliwe  on  the  hill,  the;  home  of'th«'  IU><hop  of  .\richat,  a,  ..ears  to  be  an  im- 
posing white  barn  with  nuuiy  staring  windows.  .  .  .  People  were  loitering  in  tlic 
stnH?t ;  the  young  beaux  going  up  and  down  w  tli  the  belief  after  the  leiMin'lv 
manner  in  youth  and  summer.     Perhaps  they  were  studcntu  from  St   Xavier  Col- 


ANTIGONISH. 


Route  32.       139 


tlie  train  from 


lege,  or  Tisitfaig  gallantA  from  Ouysborougta.  They  look  into  the  pont-offlce  and  the 
fancy  Htore.  They  8troll  and  take  their  little  provincial  pleasure,  antl  make  love, 
for  all  we  can  see,  a>»  if  Antigoninh  were  a  part  of  the  world.  IIow  they  uiuat  look 
down  on  Marshy  Hope  and  Addington  Forka  and  Trauadie  !  What  a  charming  place 
to  live  in  iB  this  !  "   (Baddeck.) 

Antigonish^  (two  good  inns),  the  capitul  of  the  county  of  the  flame 
unmc,  is  situated  at  the  liead  of  a  long  and  shoal  harbor,  near  St. 
George's  Bay-  Some  shipbuildi  g  is  done  here,  and  many  cargoes  of 
cuttle  nnd  butter  are  sent  hence  to  Newfoundland.  On  the  E.  shore  of  the 
hnrbnr  are  valuable  deposits  of  gypsum,  which  are  sent  away  on  coasting- 
vessels.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village  and  the  adjacent  country  are  of 
Scottish  descent,  and  their  unwavering  industry  has  made  Antigonish  a 
j)rospcrous  and  pleasant  town.  The  Colleye  of  St.  Francis  Xnvier  is  the 
Diocesan  Seminary  of  the  Kranco-Scottish  Diocese  of  Arichat,  and  is  the 
re-idence  of  the  Bishop.  It  is  a  Catholic  institution,  and  has  six  teachers. 
The  Cathedral  of  St.  Nlnian  was  begun  in  1867,  and  was  consecrated  Sep- 
tember 13,  1874,  by  a  Tontificid  High  Mass,  at  which  7  bishops  and  30 
priests  assisted.  It  is  in  the  Roman  Basilica  style,  170  by  70  ft.  in  area, 
and  is  built  of  blue  limestone  and  brick.  On  the  fumade,  between  the  tall 
square  towers,  is  the  Gaelic  inscription,  Tiyhe  Dhe  ("  the  House  of  God  "). 
The  arched  roof  is  supported  by  14  Corinthian  columns,  and  the  interior 
has  iniraerous  windows  of  stained  glass.  The  costly  chancel-window  rep- 
resents Christ,  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  St.  Joseph.  There  is  a  large  organ, 
and  also  a  chime  of  bells  named  in  honor  of  St.  .Tose|)h  and  the  Scottish 
(iaiiits,  Nnnan,  ('(diiniba,  and  Margaret,  (^ueen  of  Scotland.  This  splen- 
did structure  is  not  too  large  for  the  numerous  congregation  every  Sunday 
frcni  the  village  and  surrounding  country,  mostly  Highland-Scotch, 
who  fro(iuently  hear  sermons  in  their  own  (iaelic  tongue  from  the  Cut'.ie- 
dral  i)ulpit.  A  few  yards  from  the  Cathedral  there  is  a  neat  three- 
st(»ry  building  recently  erected  for  a  Lfolits*  Acndtmy,  to  be  conducted 
by  the  Montreal  Sisters  of  the  Congregation.  The  other  drnoniinations 
having  churches  in  Antigonish  are  the  Presbyterians,  the  Anglicans,  and 
the  Baptists.  The  Tresbyterian  Church,  on  Main  Strtet,  is  a  handsome 
structure  with  a  tall  spire.  The  village  has  two  branch  banks  and  two 
weekly  newspapers,  —  The  Aunnui,  liie  organ  of  the  Hish(»p  of  Arichat, 
and  The  Cngket.  The  county  has  a  pojnilation  of  18,100,  devoted  chiefly 
to  agricultural  pursuits.  Its  capital  is  a  pretty  village  with  pleasant 
ilrivcs  in  the  vicinity.  Nearly  all  the  people  of  the  c<)unty  do  their  shop- 
ping in  the  village,  and  hence  the  numerous  stores  along  its  main  street, 
some  of  them  large  brick  buildings.  The  harbor  is  ill-suited  for  shipping, 
but  the  railway  now  supplies  the  deliciency. 


f 


el 

i 


\\ 


I  .intiuontth, 

n.ii." 


accent  UP.  the  latt  syllublf      It  \*  »u  Inttiuii  word,  mcaniiif;  "ihc  U'wvr  ui 


UO     Route  Si. 


TRACADIE. 


' 


. 


Staged  run  daily  firom  Antigoni^h  S.  to  Sherbrooke  by  Lochaber  and  College  Jjake. 
N.  VV.  of  tho  Tillage  arc  thu  bol.i  and  pifturenque  highland8  loi  g  known  a«i  thb 
AntiKonlMh  !VItit<)  projecting  from  the  lioe  of  the  coast  about  15  M.  N.  into 
the  Ouir.  They  are,  in  d')me  plm-e^,  1,000  ft  high,  and  htive  a  Htrong  and  well. 
uiarkt'd  mountainous  ciiaracter.  .Semi-\v«M!kly  utajre^  run  N  fvoui  Antigonish  to 
A/o/T/.s/o»r/i  and  f/''<>rr//'ri//f',  resp«'ctivciy  10  a«id  18  M  distant.  8-10  M.  N.  o{ 
the  latter  is  the  bold  promontory  of  C.'ipH  St.  Cirei>rsr«N  on  which,  400  ft  above 
the  sea,  ifl  a  powerful  revolving  wiitu  light,  wliicl>  is  Tisiltlu  for  25  M.  at  pea.  Frnni 
thl-t  point  a  road  runs  S.  W.  to  .\f  I'l/wiiif  doiui,  which  i<  also  accessible  by  a  ro- 
mantic  road  through  tlie  hillit  from  Autigonish.  Thi'*  is  a  finiall  seaside  htinilct 
which  derives  its  name  fro::.!  the  fact  that  II.  B.  M.  frigaUj  Mdliifnanf  was  ovrv 
caught  in  the.se  narrow  waters  during  a  heavy  storm ,  and  was  run  ashore  here  in  onii  r 
to  avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  t;ie  iron-bound  coast  beyond.  4-5  M.  bcumd 
the  Cove  Is  ArifCiiff,  a  romantically  situ-ited  settlement  of  Scottish  Catholics," who 
named  their  new  home  in  memory  of  Arisaig,  intlio  Westtirn  Highlands.  It  Iihs  a 
long  wooden  pier,  under  whose  lee  is  the  only  harbor  and  shelter  against  eosi-wiuds 
between  Antigonish  and  Merigomish 

The  first  important  station  between  Antigjonish  and  the  Strait  is 
Heatherton,  a  Franco-Scotch  district  of  2,000  inhabitants.  A  daily  staj^e 
connects  the  railway  at  this  station  witii  Guyshorout/h,  a  town  on  tlie 
Atlantic  coast,  about  20  M.  S.  of  Heatherton,  and  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  Guyshorongh  (see  pa.ce  1'3'J).  Tracndie  is  in  a  French  district 
of  1,180  inhabitants.  There  is  a  monastery  here,  portaininj;  to  the  aus- 
tere order  of  the  Trappists  Most  of  the  monks,  between  40  and  50  in  luini- 
ber,  are  from  Helgium.  They  are  exceHent  farmers,  and  have  their  hind 
thoroujjhly  cnhivated.  Tliere  is  also  a  Convent  of  Sisters  of  Charity  in 
the  vicinity.  The  pe  pU;  of  Tracadie,  like  all  the  41.21!)  French  inhab- 
itants of  Nova  Scotia,  belong  to  the  old  Acadian  race,  whose  sad  and 
romantic  history  is  alluded  to  <in  paj^es  108  and  113.  "And  now  we 
passed  through  another  French  setth'nient,  Tracadie,  and  a^ain  the  Nor- 
man kirtle  and  petticoat  of  the  pastoral,  l)lack-<'yed  Evangeline  appear, 
and  then  pass  like  a  day-dream."     (Cozzen.s.) 

Harbor  au  Bourhe  is  a  French  district  of  2,140  inhabitants.  T^e  village 
is  out  of  sight  of  the  station,  on  St.  (Jeorge's  Hay,  and  has  two  churches 
and  two  inns.  Heyond  this  point  the  line  soon  reaches  its  tenniinis,  on  the 
Strait  of  Canso,  where  passengers  for  Cape  lireton  take  .steamers. 

Terminal  City,  a  few  miles  E.  of  Mulgrave,  has  recently  been  founded 
as  a  new  ocean-port,  for  steamship  travel  to  Europe,  being  800  M.  nearer 
Liverpool  than  New  York  is.  It  has  an  unusually  fine  bay,  deep  and  spa- 
cious, and  free  froni  ice  or  fog,  and  is  near  vast  deposit8  of  bituminous 
coal,  which  are  controlled  by  the  Terminal-City  Company. 


f. 


id  College  Ijike. 
'  known   a«)  thb 

15  M.  N.  Into 
rong  and  welU 

Antigonish  to 
8-10  M.  N.  ol 
1,  400  ft  above 
I.  at  p<?ft.  From 
esfilble  by  a  ro- 
Kcaside  hinnlct, 
fnavt  was  oi  re 
orcliorein  ordrr 
4-5  M.  bexipiid 
1  Catholics,  who 
lands.  It  lias  a 
;ain8t  ea^i-wiiids 

the    Strait   is 
A  dail}*  stage 
,  town  on  the 
L-apital   of   tlie 
I'rench  district 
iig  to  the  aus- 
and  50  in  niim- 
lave  their  land 
i  (»f  Charity  in 
French  inliab- 
whdse   sad  and 
•'  And  now  we 
jiain  the  N<>r- 
igelinc  aj)pear, 

Is.    T:>e  village 

two  chn relies 

rniinuj*,  on  the 

laniers. 
heen  founded 
800  M.  nearer 
deep  and  apa- 
of  bituminous 


CAPE    BRETON. 


The  island  of  Cape  Breton  is  about  100  M  long  by  80  M.  wide,  and  has 
an  area  of  2,000,000  acres,  of  which  800,000  acres  consist  of  lakes  and 
swamps.  The  S.  part  is  low  and  generally  level,  but  the  N.  portion  is 
very  irregular,  and  leads  off  into  unexplored  highlands.  The  chief  natural 
peonliarities  of  the  island  are  the  Sydney  coal-fields,  which  cover  260 
square  miles  on  the  E.  coast,  and  the  Bras  d'Or,  a  great  lake  of  salt  water, 
ramifying  through  the  centre  of  the  Island,  and  communicating  with  the 
sea  by  narrow  chaimels.  The  exterior  coast  line  is  276  M.  long,  and  is 
provided  with  good  harbors  on  the  K.  and  S.  shores. 

The  chief  exports  of  Cape  Breton  are  coal  and  fish,  to  the  United  States; 
timber,  to  England;  and  farm-produce  and  live-stock  to  Newfoundland. 
The  commanding  position  of  the  island  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Canadas, 
and  the  naval  power  holding  these  shores  could  control  or  crush  the  com- 
merce of  the  Gulf  The  upland  soils  are  of  good  quality,  and  produce 
valn!il)le  crops  of  cereals,  potatoes,  and  smaller  vegetables. 

The  Editor  trtists  that  the  following  extract  from  Brown's  "  History  of 
the  Island  of  Cape  Breton"  (London  :  1869)  will  be  of  interest  to  the 
tonrixt :  "  The  summers  of  Cape  Breton,  say  from  May  to  October,  may 
ohiilleiige  comparison  with  those  of  any  country  within  the  temperate 
regions  of  the  world.  During  all  that  time  there  are  perhaps  not  more 
than  ten  foggy  days  in  any  part  of  the  island,  except  along  the  southern 
eoiif  t,  betweo  i  the  Gut  of  Canso  and  vScatari.  Bright  sunny  days,  with 
halinv  westerly  winds,  follow  each  otherin  succession,  week  after  week, 
while  the  midday  heats  are  often  tempered  by  cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes. 
Of  rain  there  is  seldom  enough;  the  growing  crops  more  often  suffer  from 
too  little  than  too  much." 

"  To  the  tourist  that  loves  nature,  and  who,  for  the  manifold  beauties  by 
l.ill  and  shore,  by  woods  and  waters,  is  happy  to  make  small  sacrifices  of 
personal  comfort,  I  would  commend  Cape  Breton.  Your  fashionable, 
whoso  main  objiu^t  is  company,  dress,  and  frivolous  pleasure  with  the  gay, 
and  whose  only  tolerable  stopping-place  is  the  grand  hotel,  iiad  better 
content  himself  with  reading  of  this  island."     (Noblk.) 

The  n'\me  of  the  island  Is  deriv  1  from  that  of  its  E.  cape,  which  was 
given  in  honor  of  its  discovery  by  iVetoM  mariners.  In  1713  the  French 
authorities  bestowed  upon  it  the  new  name  of  L'  fsle  Roijale^  during  the 


! 


i:: 


142      Route  S3.        THE  STRAIT  OF  CANSO. 

reign  of  Louis  XIV.  At  this  timo,  ftfter  tho  cession  of  Ac  ;s(1ia  to  Mie  Brit 
ish  Crown,  many  of  its  inhnbitiuits  emigrated  to  Cnp?  Protosi  ;  mv\  in 
August,  1714,  the  fortress  of  F.onisbourg  was  founded.  Durinf  the  npxt 
hnlf-conturv  ofcnrrcd  the  tcrrildo  wars  between  France  '«•  i  ^iieai;  ivritair;, 
whoce  chief  invidonts  were  tlie  sic'ies  of  Lonisbonrg  and  Use  Hnu]  donw.i. 
ti-,11  of  that  vo(li»ubtabl(*  fortress.  In  17()5  this  ishmd  was  annex*'d  to  the 
Fruvince  of  Nova  Scotia  In  1784  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  l^roviiice, 
and  contitnied  as  such  until  1820,  when  it  was  rciuniexed  to  Nova  Scotia. 
Ir  1816  C'ape  Breton  Inid  about  10,000  inluibitants,  but  in  1871  its  popula- 
tion amounted  to  76,503,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  were  from  the  Scot- 
tish Highlands  (see  Ce);  ury  Mayaz'un:,  July,  1884). 

33.   The  Strait  of  Canso. 

The  Gut  of  Can>"0,  or  (as  it  is  now  more  generally  called)  the  Strait  of 
Canso,  is  a  picturesque  passage  which  connects  the  Atlantic  Ocea'i  with 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  separates  the  island  of  Cape  Breton  from 
tho  shores  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  banks  are  high  and  mountainous,  covered 
■with  spruce  and  other  evergreens,  and  a  succession  of  small  white  liiiiii- 
Icts  lines  the  coves  on  either  side.  This  grand  avenue  of  comniereo 
seems  w(»rthy  of  its  poetic  appellation  of  "The  (iolden  (late  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Gulf."  It  is  claimed  that  more  keels  pass  through  this  rhniiiicl 
every  year  than  through  any  other  in  the  world  except  the  Strui'  of  (lib- 
raltnr.  It  is  not  only  the  shortest  j>assage  hetwee  i  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Gulf,  but  has  the  advantage  of  anchorage  in  ca»-e  of  contrary  winds  and  had 
weather.  The  shores  are  bold-to  and  free  from  dangers,  and  (here  are  sev- 
eral good  anchorages,  out  of  the  current  and  in  a  moderate  depth  of  water. 
The  stream  of  the  tide  usually  sets  from  the  S.,  and  runs  in  gr«,>,at  swirling; 
eddies,  but  is  much  influenced  by  the  winds.  The  strait  is  described  hy 
Dawson  as  "a  narrow  transverse  valley,  excavated  by  the  currents  of  tho 
drift  period,"  and  portions  of  its  sIk  (      nn;  of  the  carboniferous  epoch. 

The  Stmit  of  Oiinso  is  tmvorsod  by  severftl  thousjiml  snilinp-vospels  every  year,HnJ 
also  by  tho  large  .steamers  of  tlie  Boston  ami    I'.  K.  I.  Steamship  Compiiny. 

"So  witli  HMiewed  nntiohwtHoTis  we  ride  on  fowiird  tho  ntridt  'of  unrtviillcil 
beauty,'  that travidlers  say  '  surpas.-es  an.vttiin^  in  Aiiu'rica.'  And,  indeeil,('an.<cjiii 
can  havp  niv  feol)lo  testimony  in  oonflvmation.  It  is  a  errand  marine  liijrhway,  liav- 
infr  steep  liills  on  tlio  (^ape  Hreton  Isltind  side,  and  lofty  mountainN  (»n  tlie  (iHmt 
shore;  a  full.  l>road,  mile-wide  space  between  tlu'in  ;  and  reaehing.from  end  toeiul, 
fifteen  milos,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  (Julf  of  St.  Lawrence. "'     (Cozzens.) 

Vessels  from  the  S  ,  bound  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  first  approach  the 
Nova-Scotinn  shore.T  near  Cope  Cnnso  (see  page  134),  whose  lights  ami 
i.^^lands  are  rounded,  and  the  course  lies  between  N.  W.  and  W.  N.  W. 
towards  Lddy  Point.  If  a  fog  prevails,  the  steam-whistle  on  Cranberry 
Island  will  be  heard  givii  -^  out  its  notes  of  warning,  sounding  for  8  seconds 
in  eacl    .ainutt,  and  heard  for  20  M.  with  the  wind,  for  15  M.  in  calm 


PORT  HASTINGS. 


RouU  33.       143 


\%{x:,\i'.   ;>i.tnni, 


weniher,  and  6-8  M.  in  K^ormy  weather  and  apiinst  the  wind.  On  the  \, 
is  Ch<'dabucto  Hi»,y,  siicioiiing  in  to  Guysboroiifrli,  lined  aio.ip  its  S,  shore 
t»r  ii'ils  3-700  ft.  higli;  and  on  the  r.  the  Isle  Madiiine  i^  soon  iipproarhed. 
28-30  M.  bcyontl  ('ape  Canso  the  vessel  pn^s^"^  ^'-  ''*'//  P<  •  >t.  oi:  wMicn  art 
two  fixed  white  lights  (visihle  S  M  ).  On  tlie  stailtonril  o.'.un  is  .lanvria 
IsImikI,  lieyond  wImcIs  is  the  broad  estnary  f>t'  /lahiffints  Ii<tij.  On  the 
Cfipc-Breton  shore  is  the  handet  of  Bear  I'oint,  lu.d  on  the  1.  are  Melford 
Croek  (with  its  ehnndi),  ISteep  Creek,  and  Pirate's  Cove.  The  handet.i  of 
r<i;l  Mnl^rave  and  Port  Hawkesbury  are  now  seen,  nearly  opposite  each 
other,  and  hiilf-way  up  the  strait. 

Port  Mulgrave  (two  inns)  is  a  villap;eof  about  400  inhaliitants,  on  the 
N')Vii-Scotia  side  of  the  strait.  It  is  engaged  in  the  lislu-rics,  und  has  a 
li!irl)or  which  remains  open  all  the  year  round,  (jolii-ixiaring  (|utirtz  is 
foiiiiil  in  the  vicinity;  and  bold  hills  tower  above  the  shore  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  this  j)oint  and  Tort  Hawkesbury, 
U  M.  distant,  in  connection  with  the  railway,  running  down  from  New 
(ilasgnw  (see  page  l.'}8,  and  end  of  page  IfiO).  Tlie  Cape  Hreton  Uailway 
was  opened  in  18U1  from  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  the  (Jrand  Narrows  and 
Sydney. 

Port  Hawkesbury  {Hmckvahunj  /fottl,  comforlablr;  Ai<tili<i  Ilnltl)  is  a 
village  <d'  about  Dt)0  inhabiiants,  on  the  (  apc-lJnaon  side  of  the  strait.  It 
is  situated  on  Ship  Harbor,  a  snug  haven  lor  vessels  of  2()-ft.  draught, 
marked  by  a  fixed  re<l  light  on  Tiipptr  Point.  This  i-.  tin;  best  liarbor 
on  the  strait,  ami  has  very  good  holding-ground.  The  villiig»!  is  of  a  flut- 
tered appearance,  and  has  four  sir.all  churches.  Stages  run  ln'iue  to 
Svdiiey.  Ari(duit,  and  West  Hay,  on  the  IJras  d'Or;  and  a  railway  has 
been  siirvey»Ml  to  the  latter  point.  The  steamsliips  that  ply  lietween  Hos- 
ton  ;iud  Prince  Kdward  I>Iaiid  wei  kly,  call  at  Port  Hawkesbury,  toiu-liii.^ 
rtt  the  wharf  of  the  Mras  d'Or  steamhuats,  and  niakiui;  dose  and  sure  c"'n* 
noetions  with  them.     Thev  leave  for  Ho^ion  e«'erv  I'n  lav. 

Port  Hastings  ( //"s/m///t  nonse),  is  .3  M.  above  Port  Haw  I.^fmry,  tm 
the  Cape-Hielon  shore,  and  is  built  on  the  I.IulTs  over  a  small  hari>or, 
It  derives  its  chief  interest  from  being  the  point  where  the  Atlaniic-CaMc 
Coiiipaiiy  transfers  its  messages,  received  from  all  pai  s  of  Europe  and 
delivered  under  the  sea,  to  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Coinpanv,  by 
which  tlie  tidings  are  sent  away  through  the  Doiniuion  and  the  United 
Slates, 

MaiUStauea. — The  ShoroMne  loaves  Port  Hiistln  on  arrival  of  pxpresn- 
trniiiM  fn)iii  rlie  west,  reaehiiin  Port  ll'tod  at  I>  e.  M  .  Ma  ou  at  11  p  M.,  .Mirnnn'o 
lit  7  \.  M.,a.iil  ('li«>tioaiiip  at  noon.  Port  llitMlin^cs  to  iV)rr  IIooil.  .I'l  ^l.,  fare  $2  ; 
t.)  Miihoii.  10  .M.,  $2M);  to  Stnithlonie,  48  .M.,  $8.50  ;  to  MarKam-  llurhor,  HO  .M., 
$'> :  to  ('li<'fi<-ainp,  Kd  M.,  $t).  U*>tuniini;,  tlut  staifo  ioiiv«'s  (In  tiraui])  at  .0  A.  M., 
Mtirjriin-e  at  9  a.  M  ,  Mabou  at  3  «'.  M.,  and  Port  Mood  at  f)  p.  M. 

The  \  ic  oria  line  of  Htages  leavt^s  Port  HaHtingx  on  the  arrival  of  the  express- 
train  frniii  Truro,  ami  reaches  Kinjj;-viil«  (U  M.,  .1^1)  at  7  P.  M  :  Milfonl  ('27  M., 
*l.r»())  at  H  30  p.  M.  ;  \Vhveooonuij(h  (35  M  ,  f'i.Wl)  at  10  p.  m.  •  nu<l  TJa.l.ii-ek  (00  M., 
$."))  at  2.^  M.  RfturninK,  the  xtajte  leaves  Baddeck  at  I  p  \  ,  Whycomniagh  at 
4,  .Miiford  at  0,  and  KhigHville  at  i  .30. 


144      Jtoute  S3. 


CANSO. 


.1 


Nearly  opposite  Port  Hastings  is  the  bold  and  shaggy  headland  of  Cape 
Porcupine,  attaining  a  height  of  640  fit.,  and  contracting  the  strait  to  its 
narrowest  part.  The  stream  now  widens  slowly,  with  16-20  fathoms  of 
water,  and  at  its  N.  entrance  (VV.  side)  the  steamer  passes  a  I'ghthouse, 
which  sustains  a  povverful  fixed  white  light,  110  ft.  above  the  water,  and 
visible  from  Cape  St.  George  to  Port  Hood. 

Canso  was  in  the  earlier  days  called  Campseau,  or  Cnnsfav,  and  the  word  is 
derived  from  the  Indian  Camsoke,  which  sif^nifies  "  facing  the  frowning  clifTs  "  It 
is  alHO  claimed  that  the  name  is  derived  from  the  Spaui.sh  word  Ganso,  nignifving 
••goose,"  in  allusion  to  the  great  flocks  of  wild  gee.«e  souietinies  pecn  here.  Ilere 
the  Micniac  traditions  Iwate  tlie  marvellous  transit  of  the  divine  Gloof-cnp  (pee  page 
106),  who  was  stopped  by  these  deep  waters  while  on  his  way  to  attack  a  mighty  w  Iz- 
ard in  Newfoundland.  lie  summoned  from  the  sea  a  whale,  who  bore  him  across 
the  strait,  like  a  new  Ariou,  and  landed  him  on  the  Breton  shon-s. 

For  many  years  the  Strait  of  Canso  was  culkd  the  Vasnagc  de  Fronsar,  on  all  the 
old  French  maps  ari<l  charts,  in  honor  of  the  Sicur  de  Fronsac,  the  able  and  enter- 
prising Governor  of  Cape  Bi-eton  ;  and  in  1518,  over  a  century  before  Plymouth  was 
founded,  it  was  visited  by  the  Baron  de  Lery,  who  designed  forming  a  settlement  on 
these  shores,  and  left  a  con^idcrable  miniber  of  swine  and  cattle  here.  Savalettc 
ft^quented  this  vicinity,  fnr  the  purposes  of  fishing,  from  the  year  1563;  and  in 
1604  De  Monts  found  herti  four  Basque  ships  (from  St.  Jean  de  Luz)  trading  with 
the  Indians.  Three  >ears  later  a  Dutch  vessel  entered  Canso,  and  excited  the  terri- 
ble hostility  of  the  Indi.ins  by  rifling  the  graves  of  tht  ir  dead  in  order  to  strip  off 
the  beaver-skins  in  which  the  torpses  were  wrnjipcd  Pontgrave  cruised  about  thtsc 
waters  for  a  long  time,  protecting  the  monopolized  fur-trade. 

A  fortress  and  rendezvous  for  fishermen  was  soon  established  near  Cape  Canso,  at 
the  harbor  of  Canso.  In  1688  the  Canso  station  and  the  s(dcnfary  fishery  were 
plundered  by  an  expedition  from  Boston,  consisting  of  a  crew  of  \Ve.>-t-lndian  pri- 
vateersnien.  They  entmd  these  waters  in  a  10-gun  vessel  called  a  bnrralonud ,  and 
carried  away  a  French  shii>  from  the  harbor.  After  the  conquest  of  Acadia,  the 
New-linglanii  fisluruHn  occupied  the  harbor  of  Canso,  and  erected  dwellings  aiul 
warehouses.  In  1720  the  settlements  were  attacked  at  night  by  pow«rful  Indian 
bauds,  and  lonipletely  jdundercd,  though  most  of  the  fishermen  escujted  to  their 
vessels.  TIk.n  loaded  sevenil  French  ve^sels  v  Lh  the  proceeds  of  the  raid,  and  then 
retired  to  the  fore*  t  In  17ti2  the  Massachusetts  fishi!ig->essels  were  captuied  here  by 
the  Indians,  and  \Nere  followtd  by  ariiicd  vessels  of  that  Province,  who  letook  them 
after  u  naval  battle.  H.  M  S.  Sijuirnl  seized  some  illegal  French  tradf  rs  here  in 
1718  ;  and  in  1724  a  pi'ize-vessel  was  boarded  by  the  savages  in  the  Gut  of  Canso.  and 
all  its  ctew  were  killed  or  captured.  During  the  subsequent  peace  New  Fngland  liiul 
1,6(jO-  2,(00  n.en  here  in  the  fisluries,  and  in  1738,  46,000  quintals  of  dr\  fish  were 
exported  hence.  Wlic!.-  the  var-clou<is  were  lowenng,  in  1737,  the  British  bad  loo 
soldiers  in  garrifon  h.  le,  and  II  M  S.  Eltham  was  kept  in  tlie  Strait  as  a  gnard- 
ship.  In  YfW  M  Duvivier  attacked  Can.--o  at  the  head  of  670  nen,  French  Aca- 
diuDS  and  !Mi<  n.acs,  and  soon  captured  and  destro,\ed  it.  In  1745  Peppen'il  reac  li»d 
Canso  with  8  regiments  of  Mass!U'hu.«etts  troops  and  New-IIampi-hire  and  (\)nne(  ti- 
cut  n'giuients,  and  'lere  lie  remained  for  some  weeks,  drilling  his  men  and  creeling 
fortifications.  A>  a  later  day  Comniodore  Warren  arrived  h«'re  with  the  British 
West-Indian  fl^t,  ihe  Superb,,Q^,  Launceston,  40,  Mermaid,  40,  EnhanK  and  other 
ships. 

The  Briti  li  war-ve.-.'-r'  Little  Jack,  6  guns,  was  cruising  about  the  Strait  of  Can.-o  in 
1781,  when  Aw  s  :'  1  Iavo  'larblehcad  privateers.  Securing  a  favorable  position  near 
Petit  de  Gra? ,  .i  shc»ro-bat'>Ty  was  fornied,  and  the  cutter  was  anchored  with  spiings 
on  her  cable.  After  a  sli«.<  p  action,  one  of  the  privateers  was  crippled  and  lore  •  d  to 
sunender,  aiid  the  o'lur  mlhIc  h'vste  to  escayie.  The  Americans  were  paroled  at  Petit 
de  (irat,  and  th<"  .essri  v  is  iiiken  to  Quebec. 

After  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution,  the  S.  end  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  vua 
occupied  V  a  colon;,  of  Lo.Milists  from  Florida,  who  suflereu  terribl,>  front  the  com- 
parative .iicleniency  i)f  the  ciimi;te.  The  piesent  inhabitants  ol  the,^e  shores  are 
mostly  <(  Scottish  descent,  a  hardy  and  ..itrepid  people.  So  late  as  the  year  17S7 
there NviH  not  one  settler  on  the  Breton  side  oi  the  strait,  and  the  immigration  baa 
irostly  occurred  during  the  present  century. 


ARICHAT. 


Route  ^4'      145 


Hand  of  Cape 
I  strait  to  its 
10  fathoms  of 
a,  I'ghthousp, 
le  water,  and 


id  the  word  is 
ling  cliffs  "  It 
inso,  signifving 
Ml  here.  II«'n; 
lOKup  (Fee  pngt! 
k  a  niiglity  wiz- 
ore  hiui  across 

isar,  on  all  the 
able  and  enter- 
'  Plj  mouth  was 
a  settlement  on 
lere.  Savak-ttc 
r  15fi3 ;  and  in 
z)  trading  with 
Xf  ited  the  terri- 
Jer  to  8tiip  off 
i8cd  about  tbf^e 

■  Cape  Cani-o,  at 

iry  fishery  W(  re 

Vef-t-lndian  pri- 

harraloiiiin ,  and 

of  Acadia,  the 

I  dwellings  aiul 

lowjrful  Indian 

(•iil)ed  to  th»'ir 

raid,  and  thm 

iptuu'd  hereliy 

lo  K'tonk  tlu'ni 

trad'  rs  heie  in 

ut  ol'Canso.and 

\v  J.nghmd  had 

of  dr\  fish  wne 

Ihitish  liad  Ino 

ait  as  a  giiiini- 

n,  French  Aca- 

ppereil  leaclud 

V.  and  (\)ni'(< ti- 

cn  and  ficciiiig 

itli  the   British 

hani  and  other 

trait  of  Caii.-o  in 
position  mar 
red  withspiiiifjs 
"(1  and  for((  d  to 
paroled  at  I'etit 

lit  of  Canso  viia 
,  from  vhe  com- 
hese  Hhores  are 
18  the  year  17S7 
uimigration  baa 


34.   Arichat  and  Isle  Madame 

A  mail-stage  runs  daily  from  Port  Ilawkesbury  to  Arichat,  30  M.  S.  E., 
passing  near  the  sea-shore  hamlets  of  Caribacou  and  Lower  River  Inhab- 
itants, and  approaching  the  Scottish  village  of  Grand  Anso.  At  the  French 
(ishiiig-settlement  of  Grand  Difpie,  the  passenger  Is  ferried  across  the 
Lsnnox  FassagOi  a  long  and  picturesque  strait  which  separates  Isle 
Madinie  from  the  Breton  shores.    Steamers  run  from  Halifax  to  Arichat. 

Isle  Madame  is  16  M.  in  length  from  K.  to  W.,  and  about  5  M  In 
liiTadtli.  Its  surface  is  very  irreguhir,  though  of  but  moderate  elevation, 
ami  the  central  piu't  is  occupied  by  a  smtill  lake.  It  was  settled  over  a 
century  ago,  by  exiles  from  Acadia,  whose  descendants  now  occupy  the 
land,  and  are  pious  Catholics  and  daring  seamen. 

In  llCiO  the  French  explorer  of  Isle  Madame  found  113  inhabitants  here,  "  who 
live  as  they  can,"  on  a  sterile  soil,  and  barely  inaintaiiiej  by  soinc  petty  fisheries. 
He  closes  his  account  by  saying,  "  We  quitted  this  country  with  no  regret,  except 
that  we  must  leave  there  so  many  miserable  people.'' 

Arichat  {Finlny's  f/itel,  $  1.50  a  day),  the  capital  of  Richmond  (^ounry, 
is  the  most  important  tishiug-station  between  Halifax  and  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. It  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  Acadian- 
French  origin,  and  are  connected  in  some  way  with  the  sea.  The  fisheries 
of  which  this  port  is  the  centre  are  connected  with  the  great  establish- 
ments on  the  Isle  of  Jersey  (in  the  English  Channel),  like  those  of  Cheti- 
camp,  Gaspd,  and  Paspebiac.  There  is  also  an  American  firm  located 
here,  engaged  in  the  canning  of  lobsters.  The  town  is  scattered  along  the 
steep  N.  shore  of  a  spacious  and  secure  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by 
Jerseyman  Island,  and  is  "  capable  of  containing  any  number  of  the  largest 
ships."  The  spacious  Catholic  church  in  the  W.  part  of  the  town  is  pro- 
vided with  a  chime  of  bells,  and  "s  the  seat  of  the  Coadjutor  Bishop  of 
Arichat,  whose  diocese  includes  Cape  Breton  and  the  E.  counties  of  Nova 
Scotia.  It  is  claimed  that  *'  The  Sisters  of  'he  Congregation  of  Notre 
Dame,  of  Montreal,  have  a  grand  tind  flourishing  academy  for  female  edu* 
cation  of  the  highest  order  in  the  town  of  Arichat."  E.  of  the  cathedral  is 
the  Kiohmond  County  Court-House,  surmounted  by  a  cupola.  There  ore 
also  an  English  academy  and  an  Anglican  church  in  the  town.  On  the 
S.  W.  is  seen  the  lighthouse,  beiu'ing  a  fixed  red  light,  which  guides  mari- 
ners through  the  Grid  Passage  and  into  the  harbor. 

Arichat  has  abundant  boating  and  fishing  facilities.  The  favorite  drive 
i^  the  tree-arched  Grandique  Road.  Gnnul  Lake,  favored  by  picnics,  is 
surrounded  by  stately  forests.  The  Sea-View  and  Ocean  Houses  charge 
$\  to  S7  a  week.     Steamboats  run  to  Arichat  from  Mulgrave. 

To  the  W.  Little  Arichat  extends  along  the  coast,  with  1,600  French  In- 
habitants. E.  of  Arichat  is  the  Acadian  fishing-hamlet  of  Petit  de  Grat, 
with  2,000  inhabitants;  and  D'£scousse  is  another  place  of  similar  pursuits, 
across  the  Bav  of  Rocks. 

7  '  9 


I 


146 


Route  35. 


ST.  PETER'S. 


. 


35.    The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  C.  B. 

The  direct  route  is  by  the  new  Cope-Breton  Raiiiray  ^aee  paye  1G6).     By 
the  way  of  tht  Land^  throuyh  Ht.  Ftter's 

The  Royal  niail-8tii)ro  loaves  Port  Il.lwk(^'"^)ury  every  mnrnlnp,  some  time  after  the 
arrival  of  the  Antignuisli  i^tage,  and  runs  E.  anU  \.  E.  to  .Sydney.  Fare,  *  5.  This 
is  one  of  the  motit  arduous  routes  hy  which  Sydney  ean  be  appnwu'hed,  and  leads 
through  a  thinly  wftled  and  uninterestiujr  rountry  until  .^t.  I'eter's  is  reached, 
lieyond  that  point  there  is  a  series  of  attraetiv*'  views  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  and  .St. 
Andrew's  Cliannel,  (ontinuinj;  almost  to  Sydney. 

liiHtanccH.  —  (Port  Hastings  to  Port  Hawkesbury,  4-5  M  )  Port  Hawkeshury 
to  Grand  Ause,  21  M. ;  St.  Peters,  3o ;  Rod  Islaud,  52:  Irish  Cove,  64;  Sydney, 
100.  »>.»/. 

There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  during  the  first  part  of  the 
journey.  After  leavinji  Tort  Hawkesbury,  the  stage  enters  a  rugged  and 
unpromising  country,  leaving  the  populous  shores  of  Canso  and  pushing 
E.  to  the  River  Inhabila'nts.  Crossing  th:'.!  stream  where  it  begins  to  nar- 
row, the  road  cot)tiinie.'5  through  a  n'gion  of  low  bleak  hills,  with  occasional 
V!.  s,  to  the  r  ,  of  the  deeper  coves  of  the  Lennox  Passage.  Before  noon 
it  readies  the  na.Tow  Haulover  Isthmus,  which  separates  St.  l*eter's  Bay, 
on  the  Atlantic  sioQ,  from  »t.  Peter's  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  side.  At  this 
point  is  situated  the  village  of  St.  Peter's,  a  Scottish  settlement  near  the 
bay.  The  canal  which  has  been  constructed  here  to  open  couuuunication 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Bras  d'Or  is  ^  M.  long,  26  ft.  wide,  and  l.'J 
ft.  deep,  and  is  expected  to  be  of  much  benetit  tutlie  Bras  d'Or  villages  It 
haM  been  tinished  within  a  tew  years,  and  (  ertains  to  the  Govennnent, which 
takes  a  small  toll  fn  in  the  \  easels  passing  through.  S  \\.  of  St.  I'eter's 
are  the  blutt  heights  of  Mt.  Granville,  and  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  uninhab- 
ited highlands  which  are  called  on  tlie  maps  the  Sl)orting  Mts. 

St.  Peter's  was  founded  by  M.  Penys,  about  the  year  1036,  to  command  the  lower 
end  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  -^s  his  po.^r  at  St.  Anne's  conmianded  tlie  upper  end.  He  built 
a  portage-road  here,  )poned  farm-lands,  and  erected  a  fort  which  mounted  several 
cannon  Tht  ."ndians  residing  on  the  most  remote  iiruis  of  tin*  »iras  d'Or  were  tliu.s 
enabled  to  visii  .ind  carry  their  fnrs  and  fish  to  either  one  of  Denys's  forts.  Denys 
himself,  together  witii  th'.'  fort,  the  ship,  and  all  other  i)roperty  here,  was  captured 
soon  after  by  a  naval  fon c  .'<'nt  out  by  M.  ie  Borgne.  But  in  IflotJ  Denys  retook  his 
posts,  gtiariled  by  a  charter  from  King  liOuis.  A  few  .\  I'urs  later  St.  I'eter's  was 
captured  by  lia  (Jiraudierc,  but  was  atTerwards  restored  to  Denys,  who,  however, 
abandoned  the  island  aliour  1670,  when  all  his  buildings  at  this  post  were  destroyed 
by  tire.  In  1737  St.  IVter's  was  fortified  by  M.  de  St.  Ovide,  tlie  comnsandaTit  at 
Louisbourg;  but  (hiring  the  New- England  crusade  against  tlie  latter  city,  in  174'), 
it  was  captured  and  plundered  by  Col  Moulton's  Massadiusetts  regiment.  In  17'j'2 
St.  Peter's  was  the  chief  depot  of  the  fur-trade  with  t!ie  3Iicmacs,  and  wjus  sur- 
rounded with  fruitful  farms.  It  was  then  called  Port  Toulovse ^  a.ni\  wn\»  connected 
with  Louisbourg  by  a  military  road  18  leagues  in  length,  con.'-trncted  by  the  Count 
de  Raymond.  Besides  tlie  garrison  of  Fn-nch  troops,  there  was  a  civil  population 
of  230  souis  ;  and  in  1760  Port  Toulouse  had  grown  to  be  a  larger  town  than  evm 
Louisbourg  itself.  The  King  of  Fnince  afterwards  reprin'unded  the  Count  de  Rjiy- 
niond  for  constructing  his  military  road,  saiying  that  it  would  afford  the  English  an 
opportunity  to  attack  Louisbourg  on  the  hmdward  side. 

From  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  Grand  Kiver  the  coast  is  occupied  by  a  line  of  humble 
and  retired  villages,  inhabited  by  Acadian-French  fishermen.  7-8  M.  S.  E.  of  St. 
Peter's  ai-e  the  VArdoise  settlements  (so  named  because  a  slate-quarry  was  once 
worked  here).    In  1760  there  was  a  large  French  village  here,  with  a  garrison  of 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


RmiteSS.       147 


troops,  and  L'ArdoiRe  was  the  chief  depot  of  the  Air-trade  with  the  Indians.  At 
Gnind  River  tbt  <'hanicter  of  the  population  chanf^es,  though  the  nanieH  of  the  set- 
tl»'ineut  would  iutlicatt!,  were  iiirttory  silent,  that  the  townn  Inj^ond  that  point  were 
originally  foumled  hy  the  French  They  are  now  occupied  exclusively  Ity  the  Scotch, 
whose  liglit  vessels  put  out  from  the  harbors  of  (trand  River,  ii'Archevfeque,  St. 
Ksprit,  Blanclxtiotu*,  Framboise,  and  Fourchu,  on  wliich  are  fishing-villages. 

A  few  miles  N,  K.  of  St.  Poter's  tho  stiif^o  crosses  the  liidian  Reserva- 
tion ne  r  Louis  Cove  Chaptl  Island  is  a  little  wuv  off  shore,  and  is  the 
liirgest  of  the  group  of  islets  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet.  These 
islands  were  granted  by  the  government,  in  1792,  to  the  Micmac  chiefs 
Bask  and  Tomma,  for  the  use  of  their  trihe,  and  have  ever  since  been  re- 
tained by  their  descendants.  On  the  largest  island  is  a  Catholic  chapel 
where  all  the  Micmacs  of  Cape  Breton  gather,  on  the  festival  of  St.  Anne, 
every  year,  and  pass  several  days  in  religious  ceremonies  and  aboriginal 
games.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  runs  N.  E.  between  Soldier's  Cove  and 
tlie  bold  highlands  on  the  r.  and  traverses  the  Ked-Island  Settlement,  off 
wliich  are  the  Red  Islands. 

"  The  road  that  skirts  the  Arm  of  flold  i.s  about  100  M.  in  length.  After  leaving 
Sydney  you  ride  i)eside  the  Spaidsh  River  a  sliort  disUmce,  until  you  come  to  the 
portage,  which  sepanites  it  from  the  lake,  and  then  you  follow  the  delicious  curve 

of  the  great  beach  until  you  arrive  at  St.  Peter's There  is  not  a  lovelier  ride 

by  white-pebbled  beach  and  wiile  stret<'h  of  wave.  Now  we  roll  along  anddst  pri- 
meval trees, —  not  the  evergreens  of  the  sea-coast,  but  fandliar  growths  of  maple, 
beech,  birch,  and  larchc'*,  juniper,  or  hackmatack, —  imperishable  for  shipcraft ; 

now  we  cro.^s  bridges,  over  sparkling  brooks  alive  with  trout  and  salmon To 

hang  now  in  our  curricle,  upon  this  wooded  hill-top,  overlooking  the  clear  ourface 
of  the  lake,  with  leafy  island,  and  iwMdnsula  dotted  in  its  depths,  in  all  its  native 
grace,  without  a  touch  or  trace  of  handiwork,  far  or  near,  save  and  except  a  single 
spot  of  sail  in  the  far-off,  is  holy  and  sublime.''   (Cozzens.) 

About  10  M.  beyond  the  Red  Island  Settlemeut  is  the  way-office  and  vil- 
lage at  Irish  Cove,  whence  a  road  runs  10-  12  M.  S.  E.  across  the  highlands 
to  the  Grand-River  Lake,  or  Lock  Lomond^  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water 
6-6  M.  lon^,  studded  with  islets  and  abounding  in  trout.  The  Scottish 
hamlets  of  Loch  Lomond  and  Lochside  are  on  its  shores;  and  on  the  N., 
nnd  connected  by  a  narrow  strait,  is  Loch  Uist.  The  road  crosses  the 
lake  and  descends  to  Framboise  Harbor,  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

N  of  Loch  Uist,  and  about  7  M  from  the  Bras  d*Or,  is  a  remarkable  saline  spring, 
?ontainnig  in  each  gallon  343  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  308  of  chloride  of  cal- 
'iiun,  and  9  of  tiie  chlorides  of  magnesium  and  potassium.  This  water  is  singularly 
free  from  sulphurous  contandnation,  and  has  been  found  very  efficient  in  cases  of 
asthma,  rheumatism,  and  chronic  headache.  There  are  no  accoumiodations  for 
visitors. 

About  6  M.  N.  \V.  of  Irish  Cove  is  seen  Benacadie  Point,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  East  Bay,  a  picturesque  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  ascends  for 
18-20  M.  to  the  N.  K.,  and  is  bordered  by  lines  of  bold  heights.  Near  its 
N.  shore  are  several  groups  of  islands,  and  the  depth  of  the  bay  is  from 
8  to  32  fathoms.  The  stage  follows  its  shore  to  the  upper  §nd.  Above 
Irish  Cove  the  road  lies  between  the  bay  and  a  mountain  600  i\.  high,  be- 
yond which  is  Cape  Rhumoi'e.  8-4  M.  farther  on  is  Loch  an  Fad,  beyond 
which  a  roadside  chapel  is  seen,  and  the  road  passes  on  to  £doobekuk, 


148      Route  96. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


between  the  heights  and  the  bine  water.  The  opposite  shore  (4  M.  dis. 
tant)  is  occupied  by  the  Indians,  whose  principal  vilhijfe  is  called  Kscasoni^ 
and  is  situated  near  the  group  of  islands  in  Crane  Cove.  The  bay  now 
diminishes  to  2  M  in  width,  and  is  followed  to  its  source  in  the  lagoon  of 
Tweednogie.  The  aggregate  number  of  inhabitants,  Scottish  and  Indian 
along  the  shores  of  the  Kast  Bay,  is  a  little  over  2,000.  The  stage  crosses 
the  narrow  Isthmus  (4-6  M.),  and  then  follows  the  line  of  the  Forks 
Lake  and  the  Spain'sh  River,  to  the  town  of  Sydney. 
Sydney,  see  page  160. 


.H 


I  r 


.  !'| 


36.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton. 

£y  the  <S'ea. 

There  are  several  routes  by  gea  between  IlalifHx  and  Sydney,  the  fares  beina 
8  8-10.  The  tourist  should  seud  a  note  to  the  Kteurnhhip-ageuts,  at  Halifax  for  oar- 
ticulars  ^ 

The  easiest  route  from  Boston  Jh  by  pteauiehlp  to  Port  Hawkesbury.on  the  Strait 
of  Cansn,  and  thence  up  tli«'  Uros  d'Or. 

There  are  now  several  Mteauibouts  plying  on  the  Bnw  d'Or,  giving  the  best  of 
farilities  (from  the  Provincial  point  ol  view;  f«.r  visiting  the  various  porta  and  vllia- 
gea  of  thia  lovely  iahiud  sea  (bue  end  til  pngu  lU<i). 

Halifax  Harbor,  see  page  98. 

The  course  of  the  steamship  is  almost  always  within  sight  of  hmd,  a 
cold,  dark,  and  rock-bound  coast,  ofl'  which  are  submerged  ledges  on 
which  the  sea  breaks  into  white  foam.  This  coast  is  described  in  Routes 
28  and  29;  but  of  its  aspect  from  the  sea  the  Editor  can  say  nothing,  as 
he  was  obliged  to  traverse  the  route  as  far  as  Canso  by  night. 

After  passing  the  bold  headland  of  Cape  Canso,  the  deep  bight  of  Ched- 
abucto  Bay  is  seen  on  the  W.,  ruiu)ing  in  to  Guysborough  and  the  Strait 
of  Canso.  Between  Cape  Canso  and  Red  Po'nt,  on  Cape  Breton,  the  open- 
ing Is  about  30  M.  wide,  inside  of  which  are  Isle  Madame  (Route  34)  and 
St.  Peter's  Bay.  The  course  of  the  vessel,  after  crossing  this  wide  o|  eii- 
ing,  converges  toward  the  Bretorj  coast,  which  is,  Ir  wever,  low  and  wiili- 
out  character,  and  is  studded  with  white  fishing-hamlets.  St.  Esprit  is 
visible,  with  its  little  harbor  indenting  the  coast. 

A>iout  the  middle  of  the  lost  century  tlic  British  frigate  Tilbury,  CA,  was  caught 
on  this  sliore  during  a  lieavy  gale  of  wind,  and  was  unable  to  work  otT,  in  spito  of 
the  utu10^•t  exertions  of  her  gi'eat  cnw.  The  Tilbury  Hocks,  off  St  Esprit,  still 
conm  eniorato  the  place  where  she  Anally  t-truck  and  went  to  pieces.  200  sidlors 
V  ere  cither  drowned  or  killed  by  bciuji:  dashed  on  the  sharp  rocks,  and  200  men  and 
16  officers  were  saved  from  the  waves  by  the  Frencli  people  of  St.  £sprit,  wlio  nour- 
ishetl  and  sheltered  tliem  with  tender  (are.  England  and  France  beint?  then  at  war, 
tlie  survivors  of  the  Tilbury'' s  crew  were  de.»'))atched  to  Fran<e  as  prisoners,  on  the 
French  frigate  Herniione.  This  vessel  was,  however,  captured  in  the  English  Clian. 
Del,  and  the  sailors  were  released. 

Beyond  St.  Esprit  the  coves  of  Framboise  and  Fourchu  make  in  from 


CAPE  BRETON. 


RouU  S6.      149 


ake  in  from 


the  !«eft,  and  above  the  deep  Inlet  of  GnbRnis  Bay  the  lighthouse  of  I^uls- 

bourg  (see  Route  38)  nmy  perhaps  he  seen. 

In  1714  the  Fr«>nrh  ships  Nntrf  Dmnedela  D^'irrnnrr,  Ijiuix  l^rnsmf,  and  Marquis 
d'Atitiii  sailoil  from  Calliio  (INtu),  with  a  v.ist  niiiDiint  of  Invisurw  on  hojird,  con- 
cealed under  a  surliu'c-carno  of  c«mm»ii.  The  two  latter  were  ciiptureil  otT  tlie  Azores 
by  the  Hrifi-'lJ  privateers  Frhi'i'  Frul'rirk-  ami  Dnkf,  hut  during  the  3  hours'  action 
the  Notre  l)ii)ni>  escaped.  Not  dariuK  to  approach  the  French  coiust  while  so  many 
Jidstile  privateers  wen*  crnlsinn  about,  she  crowded  all  sail  and  hore  away  for  Louis- 
l»(iin>;.  20  days  later  she  siplifed  ?!catari,  ami  it  see.uel  that  her  valuahl  >  eurjfo 
\va-<  already  safe.  Hut  she  was  met,  a  short  distance  to  the  S  ,  by  a  Itritish  Hcot, 
and  iH'canie  a  prize.  Anion({  the  people  captured  on  the  Notrf,  Dnt/m  wa.s  Don 
Antiiniii  dMlloa,  tho  famous  Spanish  scientiU,  wljo  wis  kept  hen?  In  li^ht  ca|»tivity 
for  two  months,  and  who  afterwards  wrote  an  intere-itini;  book  about  Vii\h'  Breton. 
The  lucky  veiwels  that  made  tlio  capture  were  the  Sumlftlantt,  Boxton,  and  Chester^ 
and  their  crews  had  great  priz«'-iuoney, — f)r  over  S4,()(X),()00  waH  found  on  the 
Niitrf  Dnme,  in  bars  and  ingotti  of  gold  and  nilver 

In  17iV5  the  French  frigate  Arc-i  n-Cifl,  50,  and  tho  Amitii  were  captured  In  these 
waters  by  II.  B  M.  ships  CV/Ui/rio/iand  Surress.  In  .Inly,  17")*J,  the  French  ves.seig 
lUrns,  74,  Vluslrr,  H4.  and  two  3>-gun  frigit«*H  met  H  H.  M.  ships  Grafinn,  70,  I\'ot- 
tins^ntn^  70,  nnd  the  Janiuira  sloop,  and  fought  from  mid-afternoon  till  dark  The 
action  wtus  indecisive,  and  each  tl(H-t  cl.aimed  that  the  other  stole  away  at  night. 
The  loss  of  men  on  both  sides  was  considerable 

Tn  M.ay,  1745,  a  gallant  naval  actio:i  wis  fo.igljt  he«!about44  betwwn  the  French 
ship-of-the-line  Vigilant  and  Com.  Warren's  fliHit,  consisting  of  the  Siip'rb  (<')0-gun 
ship),  and  tho  Lnimreston,  Mer7>inii/,nnil  EUhdw  40.gun  frigates)  The  VinHant  ss9A 
carrying  a  supply  "f  military  goods  from  Brest  to  Louisitourg,  and  met  the  Mt- 
maid,  standing  olT  and  on  in  the  fog.  The  latter  made  sail  and  tied  toward  the 
pquadron,  and  the  Viiiilant  swept  on  in  the  fog  and  ran  into  the  midst  of  the 
British  ticet.  Warren's  ships  o|)eiied  fire  on  every  side,  but  tho  French  captain, 
the  Maniuls  de  Maisonfort*,  refused  to  surn-nder,  though  his  decks  were  covered 
with  aton's  and  his  lower  batteries  wen?  below  tlie  water-line  by  nsison  of  the  heavy 
cargo.  The  battle  was  terrific,  and  lasttrd  for  7  hours,  while  Malsonforte  kept  hia 
colors  flying  and  tiis  cannon  roiiring  luitil  all  hi^  rigging  was  cutaway  by  the  British 
shot,  the  rudder  was  br«>ken,  the  forecastle  battered  to  pieces,  and  great  numbers 
of  the  crew  wounded  or  dead. 

The  steamship  now  runs  out  to  rounl  Scntari,  travorsinp  waters  which 
maintain  a  uniform  <U;ptli  of  over  30  fathoms.  On  the  VV.  is  the  promon- 
tory of  Cape  Breton,  from  which  the  ishiiid  receives  its  name.  It  is  a  low 
headland,  otf  wh'ch  is  the  dark  rock  of  Porto  Niicvo  Island. 

There  Is  an  old  French  tradition  to  tho  efliict  that  Vera/znno,  the  eminent  Floren- 
tine navigator,  landed  near  (7ape  Breton  on  his  last  voyage,  and  attempt^'il  to  found 
a  fortified  settlement.  But  being  suddenly  attacked  and  over)H)wered  bv  the  Indians, 
himself  and  all  his  crew  were  pat  to  deatii  in  a  <"rnel  manner,  it  is  known  to  his- 
tory that  this  discoverer  was  never  he^ird  from  after  leaving  Frince  on  his  last  voy- 
age (in  i.')2.'>). 

It  is  believed  that  Cape  Brt'ton  was  first  visited  by  the  Mnrigohl  (70  tons).  In 
l''»'.>3;  whereof  it  Is  written  :  '•  Here  diuers  »)f  our  men  went  on  land  vpon  the  very 
cape,  wliere,  at  their  arriuall  they  found  the  spittes  ofoke  of  the  Sauuges  whicli  ha<l 
roasted  meat«»  a  little  liefon-  And  as  they  viewed  the  coiuitrey  they  saw  diuers 
beaf-tes  and  foules,  as  blacke  foxes ,  deeres,  otters,  gn'at  foules  with  n'flde  legges,  pen- 
guiiH'S,  and  certaim'  others.*'  Thence  the  Mnrignlif  sai!e<l  to  the  ^ite  of  l.ouisbourg, 
where  her  crew  lamled  to  get  wat«'r,  but  were  driven  olf  shore  Ity  the  In<lians. 

Tlie  cape  probably  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  of  its  being  visited  by  tins  Breton  and 
Bisiiue  fishermen,  wlio  in  those  days  fre(|uen  ed  thc-e  seas.  <';i|k'  Bn'ton  was  at 
th(t  time  a  pro8p«'rous  commercial  city,  near  Bayonne,  in  the  Snuth  of  Fnince.  It 
was  fre(iuented  by  the  Huguenots  about  this  time,  and  had  large  tleets  engaged  In 
the  fisheries.  By  the  chan^ng  of  the  course  of  the  yVdour  Kiver,  and  the  drifting  of 
xand  into  its  harbor,  Its  nmrltiute  importance  was  taken  away,  and  in  1U41  it  hail  but 
920  inhabitants.     {Dirtmnnairf  Enn/rlojii'/iqne.) 

In  1029  Lord  Ochiltree,  the  son  of  the  Karl  of  ArraQ,  cante  out  with  60  coioDista, 


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150      Route  36. 


SYDNEY. 


and  foundsd  a  town  on  the  harbor  of  Baleine,  S.  E.  of  Cape  Breton.  The  headstrong 
Scottish  noble  was  arbitrary  in  his  dealiiiga  with  the  French  fishermen  on  the  coast, 
and  was  goon  attacked  by  u  f-tronfr  body  of  Normans.  The  armor-clad  Scots  for  a 
time  defended  their  fort  bravely,  but  were  at  last  compelled  to  surrender,  and  were 
carried  ofT  us  jjrif^oners,  including  Lord  Ochiltree,  who  was  plundered  of  all  that  he 
possessed,  and  was  sent  to  France  in  the  hold  of  the  Great  f<t   Andrew . 

In  1725  Uie  French  frigate  Lr  Cliayneau,  60,  was  wrecked  on  Porto  Nuevo  Island. 
and  all  on  board  wire  logt.  Among  thee  unf(»rturr.te  people  were  M  deChazel, 
Intendant  of  Canada;  M  de  Louvigny,  Governor  of  Ti-ois  Rivieres,  numerous  other 
colonial  dignitaries,  and  several  eccles-iastics.  "  This  mi.'-fortune  in  the  course  of  a 
single  niglit  V)i"ought  more  grief  and  ]o.«s  npon  the  French  colonies  than  they  had 
Buffered  during  20  years  of  warfare."    (Charlevoix.) 

Scatari  Icland  is  about  5  M.  N.  K.  of  Cape  Breton,  and  lies  on  the  4Ctli 
parallel  of  N.  latitude.  It  i.s  a  rock-bound  island,  8  by  4  M.  in  area,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  sea-birds  On  the  E.  point  is  a  powerful  revolving 
white  light,  and  on  the  W.  end  is  a  fixed  red  light.  The  Halifax  and  Syd- 
ney steamers  sometimes  run  inside  of  Scatari,  through  the  Main-a-Dieu 
(or  Menadou)  Passage,  near  the  obscure  fishing-hamlet  of  Main-a-Dieu. 
N.  and  W.  of  Scatari  is  the  wide,  deep,  and  unsheltered  Mira  Bay. 

After  crossing  the  broad  mouth  of  Mira  Bay,  the  shallower  bight  of  Cow 
Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.  The  vessel  steams  to  the  N.,  by  the  dark  and  rug- 
ged rock  of  Flint  Island,,  and  then  runs  about  N.  W.  by  the  great  coal-dis- 
tricts of  6^/f/ce7?r/?/ and  Z<2w^«n  (see  Route  37).  Rounding  the  lighthouse 
on  Low  Point  (or  Flat  Point),  she  ascends  Sydney  Harbor,  passing  the 
mines  and  villages  of  the  Victoria  Company  on  the  1.,  and  the  great  shafts 
and  works,  hamlets  and  churches,  of  the  General  Mii'.ing  Association  on 
the  r.  After  running  by  the  lighthouse  on  the  S.  E.  Bar,  the  opening  of 
the  W.  Arm  is  seen,  and  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf  at  Sydney. 


?  f 


! 


Sydney,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Island-Province  of  Cape  Breton, 
occupies  a  f^ivorable  position  o.i  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  is  the  chief  town  of  the  island.  It  has  about  2,500  inhabitants, 
with  6  churches,  2  newspapers,  a  masonic  hall,  and  the  Court-House  of 
Cape  Breton  County.  Tlie  principal  article  of  trade  is  coal,  of  which  vast 
quantities  are  brought  by  railways  to  this  harbor,  whence  they  are  sent 
away  oi  vessels.  Cattle  and  provisions  are  also  exported  from  this  point 
to  St.  Pierre  and  Newfoundland.  Near  the  water's  edge  is  a  white  build- 
fng,  stirrounded  by  balconies  and  adjoined  by  a  broad  pier  and  a  flag-stalf. 
This  little  estate  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Fre-ch  fleet  in  the  North  At- 
lantic, and  is  kept  with  true  man-of-war'?-man's  neatness.  There  is 
usually  a  frigate  of  this  fleet  lying  off  the  village,  and  their  bands  fre- 
quently play  in  the  town.  There  is  a  pleasant  view  over  the  harbor  from 
the  old  fort  on  Barrack  Point.  ' 

It  is  usually  said  of  a  fair  harbor  anywhere  in  the  Australian  or  Ameri- 
can colonies,  that  it  "  is  capable  of  co  daining  the  whole  British  navy." 
This  remark  has  been  made  concerning  Sydney  Harbor  by  the  best 
authority,  Capt.   Bayfield,  R.  N.,  the   marine  surveyor  who  made  the 


NORTH   SYDNEY. 


rtovteSG.       151 


all  that  he 


Admiralty  charts  for  the  British  North-American  coast.  The  deep  water 
(■((iitiiuies  alK)ve  the  wharves,  and  as  far  up  as  Sydney  Bridfj^o.  The  har- 
Dor  is  usually  ice-bound  during  tlie  winter,  from  .)au  1  to  April  1,  and  on 
this  account  h  less  valuable  than  others  more  to  the  8. 

Hotels.  — -Vrs.  King''s;  Miss  Hearn'a  :  .}fcKe7i':ie  House  ;  CenfrnI ;  Amer- 
icnn;  all  at  Sydney.     At  N.  Sydney  the  Vendome  and  the  Jiclinont. 

The  town  of  Sydney  is  not  attractive  in  its  external  aspects,  though  it  is  said  that 
its  society  is  of  a' high  order  of  culture  and  exclusive  dignity.  It  possesses  many  of 
t!i»'  social  attrihutes  of  an  old  coloii'ul  capital,  though  there  are  now  no  vestiges  of  its 
former  position  save  the  deserted  barracks  and  decaying  batteries.  The  stranger  ia 
Svdncy  will  be  able  to  see  all  that  he  cares  to  of  the  town  in  less  than  an  hour,  for 
it  is  devoid  of  interest,  notwithstanding  the  prominent  position  which  it  holds  in 
the  worlil's  marine  intelligence  and  shipping  news.  Sydney  is  750  M.  from  New 
York,6(K)  M  from  Boston,  240  M.  from  Halifax,  400  M.  from  St.  John's  (N.  F.), 
and  720  M .  from  Quebec. 

Railroad-trains  run  from  Sydney  to  Lo  isbourg  (see  page  154)  ;  stages,  to  Lingan, 
Littie  Glace  Bay,  and  Cow  Bay  ;  ferry-boats  to  N.  Sydney  ;  steamboats  to  Baddeck, 
the  Bras  d'Or,  and  the  Strait  of  Canso  ;  and  steamships  to  St.  John's  {Newfound- 
land), Halifax,  etc. 

There  are  several  small  hotel-'  and  boarding-houses  at  Sydney  and  N.  Sydney,  but 
the  large  and  comfortable  hotel  which  t!.c  custom  of  the  Un-ality  seems  to  warrant 
has  not  yet  been  built.  The  steamship  officers  can  recommend  tlie  best  stopping- 
places. 

North  Sydney  is  G-8  M.  N.  W.  of  Sydney,  with  which  it  is  connected 
l)y  the  steam  ferry-boat  Lady  of  the  Lake,  making  three  trips  daily.  It 
is  a  busy  and  dingy  little  place,  and  has  several  tanneries,  a  shoe-factory, 
and  the  shipping-depots  of  the  Sydney  coal-mines.  There  are  several 
taverns,  of  the  most  inferior  order.  The  narine-railway  at  this  point  was 
for  many  months  occupied  by  the  hulks  and  wrecked  vessels  which 
were  left  along  the  coast  after  the  Lord's-Day  Gale.  About  4  M.  N.  W.  is 
the  French  Village  on  the  Little  Brrc  d'Or;  and  a  road  runs  30  M.  S.  VV. 
over  the  uninhabited  highlands  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews,  to  the 
Grand  Narrows,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  Lake. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney  was  visited  in  1587  by  the  English  ship  Hoj/ewell,  which 
drove  out  a  Biscayan  vessel  and  plundered  all  the  fisli-stages  along  the  shore.  Many 
savages  here  visited  the  ship,  "  among  whom  was  their  king,  whose  name  was  Itary, 
and  their  queene,  to  whom  also  we  gaue  coats  and  kniues  and  other  tritles.  These 
Saimges  called  the  harborow  Cibo.  In  this  place  are  the  greatest  multitude  of 
lobsters  that  euer  we  heard  of  ;  for  we  caught  at  one  hawle  with  a  little  draw 
net  aboue  140.''  This  harbor  soon  received  the  name  of  Buie  des  Kspagnols,  be- 
cause during  the  troublous  times  of  the  l^ith  century,  it  was  the  favorite  resort  of 
the  .Spanish  fishermen,  as  Louisbourg  was  of  the  English,  and  t^t.  Aune's  of  the 
I'reneii. 

In  l(i9G  the  French  frigates  VEni'ieux  and  Prqfonrf^  commanded  by  the  Talitint 
Iberville,  entered  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  summoned  to  its  shores  the  Indian 
warriors  of  Cape  Breton.  A  chosen  force  of  Micmacs  were  soon  embarked,  and  then 
tliey  sailed  away  to  tlie  destruction  of  l'em)K|uid.  This  was  also  the  station  of  the 
powerful  French  squadron  under  the  Chevalier  du  Palais,  .\ftcr  Admiral  Walker's 
tcrrihiv  disistrous  voyage  in  the  (Julf  (in  1711),  the  remainder  of  his  fleet  was 
gatliercd  together  here,  and  it  is  said  that  the  42  war-ves.«els  then  a><sombled  formed 
the  nio.st  powerful  naval  armament  ever  seen  in  these  waters.  They  lay  in  the 
road-tead,  abreast  of  Lloyd's  (Jove,  and  the  Admiral  had  the  following  pompous  in- 
scription erected  on  the  shore:  — 

''  Innomine  Patris,  Fibi.ct  Spirit's  Sanrti,  Amfn.  Omnibus  in  Christi  Fideli- 
bus  Salutem.     Anna,  Dei  Gratice,  Magn.  Britannice,  Prancia,  tt  Hibernia^  Regina; 


I 


152      Routes/.     THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS. 

Tbtiusque  AmericcB  Septentrionalis  Domina,  Fidei  Defensor,  etc.  In  Cujus  harum 
insularum  vuls;o  Cape  Breton,  Proprietntis  et  Dominii  Testimonium,  Hor.  Erexit 
Monumentu'  Sucp.  Majestatis  Servus,  et  Subflitus  JideLissimus,  D.  Hovrnchn 
fValker,  EqurS  Auritus,  Omnium  in  America  Navimn  Regalium,  Pten/'ectus  et 
Tha'a.'isiarc/ia.     Monte  Septembris,  Anno  Salutis  MDCCXI." 

The  first  civil  governor  of  Cape  Breton  after  its  severance  from  Nova  Scotia  (1784) 
was  Major  Desbarres,  a  veteran  of  the  campaigns  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  Lake  Georpp, 
Ticonderoga  Louisbourg,  and  Quebec.  One  of  his  chief  steps  was  to  select  a  site  for 
the  new  capital  of  the  island,  and  the  location  chosen  was  the  peninsula  on  the  S, 
arm  of  the  ( apacious  harbor  called  Spanish  River.  The  seat  of  government  thus 
established  was  named  Sydney,  in  honor  of  Lord  Sydney,  Seoretai'y  of  State  for  the 
Colonies,  who  had  erected  Cape  Breton  into  a  separate  Province.  In  the  spring  of 
1785  the  Loyalists  under  Abraham  Cuyler  (ex-Ma\or  of  Albany,  N.  Y.)  came  from 
Louisbourg  to  Sydney,  cut  down  the  forests,  and  erected  buildings. 

In  1781  a  sharp  naval  battle  was  fought  off  Sydney  Harbor,  between  the  French 
frigates  VAstice  and  V Herrrnone  (of  44  guns  each)  and  a  British  squadron  consist- 
ing of  the  Cliarlestown,  28,  Allegiance,  16,  Vulture,  16,  Little  Jack.  6,  and  the  armed 
transport  Vernon.  16  coal-ships  which  were  under  convoy  of  the  British  fleet  tied 
into  Sydney  harbor,  while  the  frigates  rapidly  overhauled  the  escort  and  brought  on 
a  general  engagement.  After  a  long  and  stubborn  action,  the  Little  JiarA  surren- 
dered, and  the  remainder  of  the  fleet  would  have  shared  the  same  fate,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  approach  of  night,  under  whose  shelter  the  shattered  British  vessels 
bore  away  to  the  eastward  and  escaped.  They  had  lost  18  men  killed  and  1% 
wounded.  The  senior  captain  of  the  victorious  French  vessels  was  La  I'erouse,  who 
started  in  1788,  with  two  frigates,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  around  the  world,  but 
was  lost,  with  all  his  equipage,  on  the  Isle  of  Yanikoro. 


S7.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.-  The  Sydney  Coal- 
Fields. 

The  Sydney  Mines  are  on  the  N.  side  of  Sydney  Harbor,  and  are  con- 
nected with  N.  Sydney  by  a  coal-railway  and  also  by  a  daily  stage  (f:ire, 
75c.).  They  are  on  the  level  land  included  between  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  are  worked  by  the  General  Mining  Asso- 
ciation of  London.  Nearly  500  men  are  employed  in  the  pits,  and  the  vil- 
lage has  a  population  of  2,500. 

The  International  Mines  are  at  Bridgeport,  13  M.  N.  E.  of  Sydney,  and 
are  connected  with  that  harbor  by  a  railway  that  cost  $500,000.  The  sea- 
shore is  here  lined  with  rich  coal-deposits,  extending  from  Lingan  Harbor 
to  Sydney.  It  is  probable  that  the  submarine  mining,  which  has  already 
been  commenced,  will  follow  tlie  carboniferous  strata  far  beneath  the  seii. 

The  Victoria  Mines  are  W.  of  this  district,  and  near  Low  Point,  9  M. 
from  Sydney.  The  company  has  a  railwcy  which  extends  to  their  freight- 
ing station  on  Sydney  Harbor,  and  is  at  present  doing  a  prosperous  busi- 
ness. 

The  Lingan  Mines  are  near  Bridgeport,  and  are  reached  by  a  tri-weekly 
stage  from  Sydney  (15  M. ;  fare,  $1.60).  Lingan  is  derived  from  the 
French  word  L'Indienne,  applying  to  the  same  piace.  It  was  occupied 
and  fortified  by  the  British  early  in  the  18th  century,  and  a  garrison  of 
50  men  was  stationed  here  to  guard  the  coal-mines.  At  a  later  day  the 
French  army  at  Louisbourg  was  supplied  with  large  quantities  of  coal 
from  this  point,  and  several  cargoes  were  sent  away.    During  the  summer 


THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS.     RmiUST.      153 


of  1752  the  mine  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  fort  and  buildings  were  all 
destroyed. 

Tht  Little  Glace  Bay  Mines  are  18  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are  reached 
bv  a  tri-weekly  stage  (fare,  $1).  They  are  situated  on  Glace  Bay  and 
Glace  Cove,  and  about  Table  Head,  and  are  carried  on  by  a  Halifax  com- 
pany, which  employs  300  miners.  The  deposits  are  very  rich  along  this 
sliore,  and  extend  far  out  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Goiorie  and  Block-House  Mines  are  on  Cow  Bay,  and  are  among  the 
most  e.ctensve  on  this  coast.  Th(,y  are  22  M.  from  Sydney'-,  and  are 
reached  by  a  tri-weekly  stage.  They  employ  over  600  men,  and  have 
formed  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants.  Large  fleets  gather  in  the  bay  for 
the  transportation  of  the  coal  to  the  S.,  and  while  lying  here  are  in  con- 
siderable peril  during  the  prevalence  of  easterly  gales,  which  have  a  full 
sweep  into  the  roadstead.  Nearly  70  vessels  were  wrecked  here  during 
the  Lord's-Day  Gale,  and  the  shores  were  strewn  with  broken  hulks  and 
many  yet  sadder  relics  of  disaster.  The  S.  portal  of  the  bay  is  Cape 
Morien,  and  on  the  N.  is  Cape  Perry,  off  which  is  the  sea-surrounded  Flint 
Isliind,  bearing  a  revolving  white  light. 

The  coal-beds  of  Cape  Breton  were  first  described  by  Denys,  in  1672,  and  from 
1677  to  1690  he  hatl  a  royalty  of  20  sous  per  ton  on  all  the  coil  that  was  exported. 
Some  of  it  was  taken  to  France,  and  great  quantiti>'8  were  sent  into  New  England. 
In  1720  a  mine  was  opened  at  Cow  Eay,  whence  tlie  French  army  at  Louisbourg 
was  supplied,  and  numerous  cargoes  were  shipped  to  Boston.  Between  1745  and 
1749  the  British  garrison  at  Louisbourg  was  abund-intly  supplied  with  fuel  from 
mines  at  Burnt  Head  and  Little  Bras  d'Or,  which  were  protected  against  the  Indians 
by  fortified  outposts.  The  Abb6  Raynal  says  that  there  was  "  a  prodigious  demand 
for  Cape-Breton  coal  from  New  England  from  the  ye:ir  1745  to  1749."'  But  this  trade 
was  soon  stopped  by  the  British  government,  and  only  enough  mining  was  done  to 
supply  the  troops  at  Louisbourg  and  Ilalifix,  The  "  coal-smugglers'"  still  carried 
on  a  lucrative  business,  slipping  quietly  into  the  harbors  and  mining  from  the  great 
seams  in  the  face  of  the  cliffs.  In  1785  t'.ie  Sydney  vein  was  opened  by  Gov.  Des- 
barres,  but  its  profitable  working  was  prevented  by  heavy  royalties.  The  Imperial 
Government  then  assumed  the  control,  and  its  vessels  captured  many  of  the  light 
craft  of  the  smugglers.  In  1828  the  General  Mining  Association  was  formed  in  Lon- 
don, an  >  secured  the  privilege  of  the  mines  and  niinerals  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape 
Breton  from  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  they  had  been  granted  by  King  George  IV. 
Under  the  energetic  management  of  the  Association  the  business  incrcjased  rapidly, 
and  became  profitable.  Between  1827  and  1857  (inclusive),  1,931,634  tons  of  coal 
were  mined  in  Capo  Breton,  of  which  605,008  tons  were  sent  to  the  United  States. 
Between  1857  and  1870  there  were  sold  at  the  mines  3,323,981  tons.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  these  products  came  from  the  Sydney  field,  but  of  late  years  consid- 
erable exportations  are  being  made  from  the  min<!s  at  Glace  Bay,  Cow  Bay  (Block- 
House),  Gowrie,  and  Lingiui.  The  Caledonia,  Glace  Bay,  and  Block-House  coals  are 
used  for  making  gas  at  Boston  and  Cambridge,  and  the  gas  of  New  York  is  made 
from  International,  Glace  Hay,  Caledonia,  and  Block-House  coals. 


•*  Tn  travelling  from  Ilawkesbury  to  Port  Hood,  and  Baddeck  and  back  again,  by 
the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes,  o.ie  traverses  a  country  in  some  places  tnickiy  ^etlled,  but  uil 
appirently  well  settled  by  a  race  of  men  pliysically  the  superior  of  auy  other  ou  the 
fii  e  of  this  continent.  They  are  chictly  of  Highland  Scotch  descent,  with  a  spriuk* 
liiiK  of  French  Canadians,  and  as  a  matter  of  cour.-e  nearly  all  Komau  Catholics  in 
their  religious  belief.  .  .  .  The  Cape  Hretouers  seem  to  be  very  prolific  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  their  species  No  immigration  i'*  wanted  hero ;  only  give  them  time,  and 
they  will  compass  the  same  ends  themselves.  Nothing  under  ten  children  is  consid- 
ered a  large  family,  and  those  who  fall  short  of  this  geueruUy  consider  it  necessarjf 
to  explain  the  unusual  circumstaucu." 


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154      Routt  38. 


LOUISBOURG. 


38.    The  Fortress  of  Louisbourg. 

Louisbourg  is  reached  by  staj^es,  from  Sydney,  in  24  M.  A  road  runs 
hence  15-18  M.  N.  E.  along  an  interesting  coast,  to  Cope  Breton  (see  paj,^e 
149),  passing  the  hamlets  of  Big  and  Little  Loran,  "named  in  honor  of 
the  haughty  house  of  Lorraine."  Cape  Breton  itself  is  nearl}'  insulated 
by  the  dei  i  haven  of  Baleine  Cove,  and  just  off  its  S.  point  is  the  rock  of 
Porto  Nuevo,  rising  boldly  from  the  sea.  Beyond  the  cape  and  the  hamlet 
of  Main-u-Dieu  the  Mira  Bay  road  passes  the  hamlet  of  Catalogne  (18  iM. 
from  Sydney),  at  the  outlet  of  the  broad  lagoon  of  the  Catalogne  Lake, 
and  follows  the  Mira  River  from  the  village  of  Mira  Gut  to  the  drawliridfre 
on  the  Louisbourg  road,  where  the  farming  hamlet  (  Albert  Bridge  has 
been  established  {12  M.  from  Sydney).  A  road  runs  hence  S.  W.  12  14 
M.  to  Marion  Bridge,  a  Scottish  settlement  n^-ar  the  long  and  narrow 
Mira  Lake.  The  road  ascends  thence  along  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  River 
to  the  vicinity  of  Loch  Uist  and  Loch  Lomond  (see  page  147). 

Gaharus  Boy  is  8-10  M.  S.  W.  of  Louisbourg,  and  is  a  deep  aiid  spa- 
cious but  poorly  sheltered  roadstead.  It  has  a  large  and  str.iggling  fishing- 
settlement,  near  the  Gabarus,  BeltVy,  and  Mira  Lukes. 

Louisbourg  at  present  consists  of  a  small  hamlet  occupied  by  fisher- 
men, whose  vessels  sail  hence  to  the  stormy  Grand  Banks.  The  adjacoiit 
country  is  hilly  and  unproductive,  and  contains  no  settlements.  The  har- 
bor is  entered  through  a  passage  10  fathoms  deep,  with  a  powerful  white 
light  on  the  N.  E.  headland,  and  is  a  capac'ous  basin  with  5-7  fathoms 
of  water,  well  sheltered  from  any  wind.  On  Point  Rochfort,  at  the  S.  W. 
side  of  the  harbor,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  French  fortress  and  ciiy. 

"The  ruins  of  the  once  formidable  batteries,  with  wide  broken  gaps  (blown  up 
by  gunpowder),  present  a  melancholy  picture  of  past  energy  The  strong  and  capa- 
cious magazine,  once  tlie  deposit  of  immense  quantities  of  munitions  of  war,  is  still 
nearly  entire,  but,  hidden  by  the  accumulation  of  earth  and  turf,  now  affords  a  com- 
modious shelter  for  flocks  of  peaceful  sheep,  which  feed  around  the  burial-ground 
where  the  remains  of  many  a  gallant  Frenchman  and  patriotic  Briton  are  deposited ; 
while  tteneath  the  clear  cold  wave  may  be  seen  the  vast  sunken  shi|)s  of  war,  whose 
very  bulk  indicates  the  power  enjoyed  by  the  Gallic  nation  ere  England  l)ccaiiie 
mistress  of  her  colonies  on  the  shores  of  the  Western  Atlantic.  Desolation  now  sit8 
with  a  ghastly  smile  around  the  once  formidable  bastions.  All  is  silent  except  the 
loud  reverberating  ocean,  as  it  rolls  its  tremendous  surges  along  the  rocky  beach,  or 
th-e  bleating  of  the  scattered  sheep,  as  with  tinkling  bt  lis  they  return  in  the  dusky 
Folitude  of  eve  to  their  singular  folds.'*   (Montgomkry  Martin. ■) 

"  If  you  ever  visit  Louisbourg,  you  will  observe  a  patch  of  dark  greensward  on 
Point  ilochfort,-- the  site  of  the  old  burying-ground.  Beneath  it  lie  the  ashes  of 
hundreds  of  brave  New-Knglanders.  No  monument  marks  the  sacred  spot,  but  the 
waves  of  the  restless  ocean,  in  calm  or  storm,  sing  an  everlasting  requiem  over  the 
graves  of  the  departed  heroes."   (II   Brown.) 

The  port  of  Louisbourg  was  called  from  the  earliest  times  Havre  d  fAn^lois,  but 
no  important  settlements  were  made  here  until  after  the  surrender  of  Newfoundland 
and  Acadia  to  Great  Britain,  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  Then  the  French  troops  and 
Inhabitants  evacuated  Placentia  (N.  F.)  and  came  to  this  place.  In  1714  M.  de  ft. 
Ovide  de  Brouillan  was  made  Governor  of  Louisbourg ;  and  the  work  of  building  the 
fortress  waa  begun  about  1720. 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOUi^G.     Route  38.      155 


The  powerful  defences  of  *'  the  Dunkirk  of  America  "  were  hurried  to  completion, 
and  the  people  of  New  Enpland  "  looked  with  awe  upon  the  sombre  walls  of  Louis- 
bourg.  whose  towers  rose  like  giants  above  the  northern  seas.''  Over  30,000,000 
livres  were  drawn  from  the  French  royal  treasury,  and  were  expendeil  on  the  forti- 
fications of  Louisbourg;  and  numerous  cargoes  of  building-stone  were  sent  hither 
from  France  (as  if  Cape  Breton  had  not  ciiougli,  and  little  else).  Fleets  of  New- 
England  vessels  bore  lumber  and  bricks  to  the  new  fortress;  and  the  Acadians  sent 
in  supplies  and  cattle.  For  more  than  20  years  the  French  government  devoted 
all  its  energy  and  resources  to  one  object, —  the  completion  of  tlie.-e  fortifications. 
Inhabitants  were  drawn  to  the  place  by  bounties  ;  and  Loui>bourg  soon  had  a  large 
trade  with  France,  New  England,  and  the  West  Indies. 

The  harbor  was  guarded  by  a  battery  of  30  28-pounders,  on  Goat  Island ;  and  by 
the  Grand  (or  Royal)  Battery,  which  carried  30  heavy  guns  and  raked  the  entrance. 
On  the  landward  side  was  a  deep  moat  and  projecting  bastions  ;  and  the  great 
careening-dock  was  opposite.  The  land  and  harbor  sides  of  tlie  town  were  defended 
by  lines  of  ramparts  and  bastions,  on  which  80  guns  were  mounted;  and  the  West 
Gate  was  overlooked  by  a  battery  of  16  24-pounders.  The  Citadel  was  in  the  gorge 
of  the  King's  Bastion.  In  the  centre  of  the  city  were  the  stately  stone  church, 
nunnery,  and  hospital  of  St.  Jean  de  Dieu.  Tlie  streets  crossed  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  communicated  with  the  wharves  by  five  gates  in  the  harbor- 
ward  wall.  The  fortress  was  in  the  first  system  of  Vauban,  and  required  a  large 
garrison. 

Early  in  1745  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  determined  to  attack  Louisbourg  with 
all  the  forces  of  the  Province  ;  and  Gov.  Shirley,  the  originator  of  the  enterprise, 
gave  the  military  conunand  to  Col  Wm.  Pepperell.  ^Massachusetts  furnished  3,250 
men ;  New  Hampshire,  300  ;  and  Connecticut,  500  ;  and  George  W'hitefield  gave  the 
motto  for  the  army,  "  Nil  desperawlum ,  Cliristo  dure,''''  thus  making  the  enterprise 
a  sort  of  Puritan  crusade  Tiie  forces  were  joined  at  Canso  by  Conunodore  Warren's 
West-India  ticet,  and  a  landing  was  soon  effected  in  Gabarus  Bay.  The  garrison  con- 
sisted of  750  French  veterans  and  1,500  militia,  and  the  assailants  were  "4,000  un- 
disciplined militia  or  "oluntrers,  officered  by  men  who  had,  with  one  or  two  excep- 
tions, never  seen  a  shot  fiied  in  atiger  all  their  lives,  encamped  in  an  open  country, 
....  and  sadly  deficient  in  suitable  artillery."  The  storehouses  up  the  harbor 
were  set  on  fire  by  Vaughan's  New-Hampshire ;nen  ;  and  the  black  smoke  drove  down 
on  the  Grand  Battery,  so  greatly  alarming  its  garrison  that  they  spiked  their  guna 
and  fled.  The  fort  was  occupied  by  the  Americans  and  soon  opened  on  the  city. 
Fascine  batteries  were  erected  at  1,.550  and  950  yard-<  from  the  West  Gat«,  and  a 
breaching  battery  was  reared  at  nigiit  within  250  yards  of  the  walls.  Amid  the  roar 
of  a  continual  bombardment,  the  garrison  made  sorties  by  .sea  and  land;  anil  1,500 
of  the  Americans  were  sick  or  wounded,  000  were  kept  out  in  the  country  watching 
the  hostile  Indians,  and  200  had  been  lost  in  a  disastrous  attempt  at  storming  the 
Island  Battery.  Early  in  June,  the  guns  of  the  Circular  Battery  were  all  di"*- 
mounted,  the  King's  Bastion  had  a  breach  24  feet  deep,  the  town  had  been  ruined 
by  a  rain  of  bombs  and  red-hot  balls,  and  the  Island  Battery  had  been  rendered  un- 
tenable by  the  American  cannonade  On  the  15th  the  fleet  (consisting  of  the  Superb, 
Sunderland,  Crmterbury,  and  Prince.^s  Mnri/,  (50  guns  each  ;  and  the  Launceston^ 
Chester,  Lark,  Merwaifl,  Hector,  and  E'tlinm,  of  41)  guns  each)  was  drawn  up  off 
the  harbor;  and  the  army  was  arrayed  "  to  march  witli  drums  beating  and  colours 
flying  to  the  assault  of  tlie  West  Gate  "  But  (Jov.  Duchambon  saw  these  ominous 
preparations  and  surrendered  the  works,  to  avoid  unnecessary  carnage,  "  As  the 
troops,  entering  the  fortress,  beheld  the  strength  of  the  i)lace,  tlieir  hearts  for  the 
first  time  sank  within  them.  '  God  has  gone  out  of  his  way,'  said  they,  'in  a  re- 
markable and  most  miraculous  manner,  to  incline  the  lie.irts  of  tlie  French  to  give 
up  and  deliver  this  strong  city  into  our  hand.'  "'  Pepperell  attributed  his  success, 
not  to  his  artillery  or  the  fleet  of  line-of-battle  ships,  but  to  the  pra3ers  of  New  Eng- 
land, daily  ari.sing  from  every  village  in  behalf  of  the  absent  army.  •'  The  news  of 
this  important  victory  filled  New  England  with  joy  and  Europe  with  astonishment  " 
Bo.ston  and  London  and  the  chief  towns  of  America  and  England  were  illuminated  ; 
the  batteries  of  London  Tower  fired  salutes;  and  King  George  II.  made  Pepperell  a 
baronet,  and  Warren  a  rcar-udmiral.     (For  the  naval  exploits,  see  page  149.) 

4,130  French  people  wei'e  sent  home  on  a  fleet  of  transports;  the  siege-batteriea 
were  levelled,  and  266  guns  were  mounted  on  the  repaired  walls  ;  and  in  the  follow- 
ing April  the  New-England  troops  were  relieved  by  two  regiments  from  Gibraltar, 
and  went  home,  having  lost  nearly  1,000  men.    The  historian  SmoUet  designated 


156      Route  3S.     THE   FOUTRES:^  OF   LOUISBOURO. 


:     (,    • 


I 


the  capture  of  LouisboHrg,  "  the  most  ImportAnfc  af'hi«>v<Mnont.  of  the  war  of  1745  " ; 
and  the  authors  of  tho  "  Universal  III»tory  "  ronsidrn d  it  "  an  pquiTnlrnt  for  all 
the  pucrefises  of  tho  Frenrh  ujxrn  th«'  ('onthient."  Thf  sir^o  is  minutely  (loccribi'd 
(with  nuips)  in  Rrown'M  "  Hictory  of  tho  Islanti  of  ('apo  Broton,''  pn^os  l»)8-248. 

"  Tiiftt  H  colony  like  MaHHuohusotts,  nt  that  time  far  from  l)oing  rich  or  popiiloui^, 
dhould  display  nuoh  romHrkal)lo  militiiry  spirit  and  ontorpriso,  ai(h'd  only  liy  tho 
nmallor  I'rovinro  of  Now  iiiunpshiro;  (hut  tlioy  sho'ildoqniii  hotii  land  niidf-oa  foroos 
to  attjick  a  rodoulitahlo  fortros  oiillod  by  Hriti.xli  otH<ors  inipro^iial>l(%and  on  whidi 
the  French  ('rown  had  oxpondo  I  inniionso  sinus ;  .  .  .  .  that  4,(KH>  rustic  militia, 
whose  officers  wore  ai«  inoxporioiood  in  war  as  their  nioii,  althoUKli  supported  hy 
naval  foroos,  should  conquer  tho  rojfulnr  troops  of  tho  proatost  ndlitiiry  power  of  the 
ajfo,  and  wn'st  from  thoir  hands  a  place  of  unusual  strength,  all  appear  little  short 
of  ndraolo.''    (Hkamisii  Muhimx  n  ) 

So  keenly  did  the  Frenoli  govonunont  fo<d  the  loss  of  FiOidsbourg  that  t5n>  gn-nt 
French  Armada  was  sent  out  in  174t>  to  retake  it  and  to  destroy  Hoston.  After  tho 
disastrous  failure  of  this  expedition  (see  page  91*),  '••'•  .h)nquicn»  wius  despatched  with 
16  men-of-war  and  28  othi'r  vessels,  on  tho  same  en-and,  but  was  attacked  by  the  fieots 
of  Anson  and  Warren  off  Cn\w  Finisterro,  and  los?^  M  slups  of  war,  4,(XK)  men,  and 
$  8,t)(K),(HX)  worth  of  tho  oonvoye«l  carg(K>s.  In  174J>  tin;  war  was  ended,  Louisttourg 
and  Capo  Uroton  wen*  restonni  to  Franco,  and  ''after  four  .\ears  of  warfare  in  nil 
parts  of  tin'  world,  aft«r  all  the  waste  of  blood  and  treasure,  tho  war  ended  just 
where  it  began." 

When  war  broke  o\it  again  between  England  and  France,  in  1765,  Louisbotirg  was 
blockaded  by  the  ♦^oot  of  Admiral  Hoscawon.  England  soon  Kont  11  lino-of-battlo 
ships,  a  squadron  of  frigates,  and  50  transports,  bearing  ti.lHM)  soldiers,  to  nnluce  the 
fortress  ;  but  France  wa,s  too  pnnnpf  to  bo  surprised,  and  hold  it  with  17  sail  of  tho 
line  and  1(>,(X10  men.  Tho  vast  English  tioot  got  witldn  2  M.  of  Louisbourg  and 
then  recoiled,  sailed  to  Halifax,  and  .«o<in  broke  up,  sending  tho  army  to  Now  York 
and  the  ships  to  Kngl:ind.  Franco  then  equipped  rt«'ets  at  Toulon  and  Rochfort,  to 
reinforce  Louisbourg:  but  the  Fowlrnyant,^\,\\w  Orp/ieus,  G4,  and  other  vessels 
were  c^tptu red.  Six  men-of-war  and  sixtoon  transports  reached  Louisbourg,  with  a 
great  amount  of  military  su|>plies 

Ur»>at  Britain  now  fitto(i  out  an  immense  fleet  nt  Spithcnd,  consisting  of  tho 
Natmir,  90  guns  :  Royal  William,  ?.0  ;  Prinrfss  Anidia,  HO  ;  Tirrihle,  74  ;  the  North- 
umbcrianr/,  Oxford^  BiirfhnI,  Vanaiianl^  Snitifiset,  and  iMnra.stcr,  70  guns  each  ; 
the  Dtvoit.shiie,  Er(//(ir(/,  Captain,  i\ml  I'rinre  Fredrrirk^VA  each;  the  Pembroke, 
Kingston,  York,  Prinre  of  (haiise,  Dffinnrc,  and  Nottitii^liam,  i)0  guns  each;  the 
i'eniurion  and  ISut/ierlanfL  50  each:  the  frigates  Juno,  liranivwut,  I^ightin^nh, 
Hunter,  Boreas,  Hntd,  Trmt,  Port  Mahon,  Diana,  Shannon,  Kenninglon,  Stni- 
borough,  S<]uinrl,  Hauk,  K^avtr,  Ti/loe,  ni\d  Hali/ar :  an\\  the  fire-ships  Etna  and 
Lightning  There  were  also  118  transports,  carrying  13.(500  men,  in  17  regiments. 
Boscawen  conmiauded  the  fleet,  Amherst  the  army,  and  Wolfe  wiui  cue  of  the  briga- 
diers. 

This  powerful  nmiament  soon  nppean^d  off  Louisbourg,  and  at  dawn  on  the  8th  of 
June,  1758,  the  British  troops  landed  atGabarus  Bay, and  pushed  througli  the  fatal 
surf  of  Freshwater  Cove,  aniid  the  hot  fire  of  the  Fnnich  shore-batteries.  After  losing 
110  men  they  carried  the  ontronchmonts  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  the  Frencli 
fell  back  on  Louisbourg.  The  fortress  had  been  greatly  strengthened  since  the  .^iofje 
of  1745,  and  was  deCcndcd  h\  3,4(K)  men  of  the  Artillery  ami  the  regiments  of  Volon- 
taires  Etrangers,  Artois,  Bourgogne,  and  Cambise,  besides  large  bodies  of  nulitia  ami 
Indians.  In  the  harbor  were  tho  shi|is-of-war,  Prndint,li ;  Entreprenant,  74; 
Cnpricieux ,  iS\  \  I  i!cbrf,{\A  \  Bienf'aisant,  (c4;  Apollon,  oO;  Dia/J«;,3C;  Aritliuse, 
86;  Fidelf,  S(j\  Eclio,S2:   Fiehe,i6;  and  C/idvre,m. 

Wolfe's  brigade  then  tx'cupiod  the  old  Lighthouse  Battery,  and  opened  fire  on  the 
city,  the  French  tioot,  and  the  Island  Battery.  The  latter  was  soon  con:plotoly  de- 
stroyed by  Wolfe's  tren  endous  cannonade ;  and  since  the  harbor  was  thus  loft 
unguarded,  Gov.  Drucour  sank  tho  frigates  Diane,  Apollon,  Biclie,  Fidcle,  and 
C/t^vre  at  its  entrance.  Meantime  the  main  army  was  erect  ng  works  on  Oreeu  Hill 
and  opposite  the  Queen's  and  Princess's  Bastions,  under  the  tire  of  tlie  French 
ramparts  and  ships,  and  annoyed  on  the  rear  by  the  Indians  During  a  bloody 
sortie  by  the  French,  the  Earl  of  Dundonald  ami  many  of  the  Grenadiers  were 
killed.  The  heavy  siege-batteries  wen*  julvanced  rapidly,  and  poured  in  a  crushing 
fire  on  the  doomed  city,  destroying  the  Citadel,  the  West  Gate,  and  the  barrack.-*. 
The  magazine  of  the  Entttpnnant,  74,  blew  up,  and  the  Capricieux  and  Celcbre, 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISKOURO.     Route  38.       157 


catching  the  Are  In  their  sails,  wore  burni'd  at  their  moorings.  The  Arilhuse  and 
Echn  mil  out  of  the  harlmr  in  foKH.v  weather,  but  the  latter  was  eaptiired.  Only 
two  Kr'Mioh  fViK''l^<'-'  remained,  ami  these  were  both  captured  by  boats  from  the  tieet, 
after  a  dariiiK  attack.  On  tlie '2(!th  of  July  the  Ohevalicr  de  |)rucoiir  siirn-ndered 
the  city  witli  T),*)-'}?  men,  23  5  pieces  f>f  artillery,  and  innnense  anioiintH  of  stores  and 
flupplies'.     The  French  li;id  l<nt  about  1,()())  men,  the  British  nearly  <)(X(,  during  the 

Hie^e 

All  KngbuKl  rang  with  the  tidings  of  the  fall  of"  the  Dunkirk  of  America,"  sp«H;lal 
pniyers  and  thanksgivings  were  read  in  all  tiie  cbnrclies  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  11 
sets  of  colors  from  Louisliourg  were  preMeiit<'d  to  the  King  at  Kensington  Palace, 
whence  they  were  borne  with  great  pomp  to  St.  I'aul's  Cathedral.  Marine  insurance 
on  Anglo  Anierican  vessels  fell  at  once  from  3<)  to  12  percent,  because  the  French 
privateers  svere  driven  from  the  western  .seas  by  the  closing  »d' their  port  (»f  refuge. 

In  17">y  the  great  licet  and  army  of  <}en.  Wolfe  gat!iered  at  bouisbourg  and  .sailed 
away  to  tlie  ('on(|uest  of  ('anada.  IL'ilifax  was  a  fine  naval  station,  and  it  wafl 
deemed  inexpc  lient  to  maintain  a  costly  garrison  at  liouisbourg;  so  sapin-rs  and 
miners  were  sent  there  in  the  summerof  l7<K),and  "  in  tlie  short  space  of  six  months 
all  tiie  fortifications  and  public  buildings,  which  ha  1  cost  France  25  years  of  labor 
and  a  vast  amount  of  mouthy,  were  utti'riy  d(!molished,  —  the  walls  and  glacis  levelled 
into  the  ditch,  — leaving,  in  fiwt,  noMting  to  mark  their  former  situation  but  heaps 
of  stones  and  rubbish.  Nothing  wa.s  left  stjinding  but  tlie  private  hou.ses,  which 
had  been  rent  and  shattered  during  tlu!  sic'gc,  the  h>)S|)ital,  and  a  barnick  capable 

of  lodging  3IH)  men All  the  artillery,  aniniiuiition,  stores,  implesnents,  —  in 

short,  everything  of  the  slightest  value,  even  the  hewn  stones  which  had  decorated 
the  public  buildings,  were  transported  to  Ma  ifax." 

The  Briti-ih  garrison  was  witiidrawn  in  ITiiH,  and  after  the  foundation  of  Sydney 
•*  the  most  splendid  town  of  La  Nouvello  Franco  "  was  completely  deserted  by  its 
people. 

During  some  years  past  a  scheme  has  been  agitated  whose  fulfilment  would 
restore  Louisbourg  to  more  than  lis  firmer  importance.  It  is  proposed  to  conHtruct 
a  first-class  railway  from  this  point  to  some  st.ition  on  the  IMctou  llraneh  of  the 
Intercolonial  Hallway,  ero.«.sing  the  Strait  of  (!anso  cither  by  a  lofty  suspension- 
bridge  oi  a  steam  ferry-boat  on  wiiich  the  trains  vould  be  carried.  It  is  thought 
that  the  freight  and  pissenger  receipt.s  from  the  coal-mines  and  the  settlements  on 
the  territory  traversed  would  more  than  defray  tiie  cost  of  construction  and  mainte- 
nance. The  projectors  then  intend  to  make  Louisbourg  ii  port  of  call  for  the  ocean- 
steamships,  for  who.se  use  this  .s.'ife  and  accessible  harbor  is  peculiarly  adapted.  This 
port  is  on  the  ()()th  parallel  of  VV.  longitude,  ami  Is  11  degrees  E  of  Boston  and  14  de- 
grees E.  of  New  York,  or  so  much  farther  advanced  on  the  rout<!  to  Europe.  When 
the  through  railway  is  complet^jd  to  Boston,  Montreal,  and  New  York,  it  is  thought 
that  most  of  the  better  class,  at  leiist,  of  tr.insatlanti(r  travellers  would  prefer  to  save 
time  and  nearly  1,000  M  of  ocean-voyaging,  by  leaving  or  taking  the  steamship 
here.  Extensive  .surveys  Jiave  already  be<'n  made  in  this  vicinity,  and  real  estate 
ta  Louisbourg  hu8  rapidly  advanced  In  value. 


••  Baddeck  was  settled  by  Scotch  Royalists,  principally  from  the  Highlands  and  tha 
Islands  of  Mull,  Lewis,  and  Skye.  The  people  are  proud  of  the.^r  descent,  and  still 
keep  up  many  of  their  ancient  cu  toms.  Gaelic  is  yet  the  couiuon  language  among 
those  living  in  the  back  country,  and,  while  nearly  everybody  understands  it  to  some 
extent,  there  are  many  who  cannot  speak  English.  Every  Sunday  services  are  held 
in  Gaelic,  which  are  very  interesting,  —  the  singing  especially  is  wild  and  thrill- 
ing. Once  a  year  the  annual  'Scotch  (Jatiiering'  takes  place  at  IJaddeck,  and  the 
various  clans  gather  in  ail  their  forces,  and  for  one  day  the  quiet  little  village  is  full 
of  excitement.  I  he  sounds  of  tlie  fiddle  and  bagpipe  are  heard  in  every  direction, 
and  on  wooden  platforms  the  lav's  and  lasses,  with  solemn  visages,  go  through  their 
flings  in  sets  of  four  or  eight.  .  •  .  The  people  raise  very  little  grain  or  corn,  but 
potatoes  thrive.  Strawberries  ripen  the  latter  part  of  July, and  last  until  the  mid- 
dle of  Augu.«t,  when  raspberries  take  their  place.  Some  years  they  have  very  good 
apples  in  the  last  of  September.  The  walks  and  drives  through  the  country  are  very 
interesting,  not  only  t'oai  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  but  also  for  the  insight  into 
the  quaint,  old-fashion  id  homes  of  the  descendants  of  the  Highlanders.  They  show 
true  Scotch  hospitality  will  not  take  pay  for  food  or  drink,  but  ask  you  in  their 
houses,  and  say  '  plea.se  yourself,  mon,'  with  everything  inside,  and  if  you  desire  to 
purchase  anything  will  ask  five  times  its  value."    (Chak^lkr.) 


158      RoHlfS9. 


ST.    ANNE'S  BAY. 


^l 


89.   The  North  Shore  of  Cape  Breton.  —  St  Anne^s  Bay  and 

St.  Paul's  Island. 

Consovflncos  niny  be  hired  iit  U.-iddcck  (s«>o  pn^ro  102)  by  wliirh  to  visit 
St.  Anne's  The  (iistnnee  is  iibout  10  M.  to  tiie  licnd  of  the  hiirhor.  The 
first  part  of  tlie  way  leads  alnn^  the  shores  ol"  Had(!o(d;  l^ay,  with  tlio 
protnontorv  of  Heel  Head  over  \\w  water  to  the  r.  The  road  then  crosses  u 
cold  distriet  of  denuded  highlands,  and  descends  to  the  *  ]'ti//t  i/  <[f  t>t.  Anne. 
As  the  harbor  is  appro:  ehed,  the  traveller  can  see  the  aniphitheatriod 
glens  in  which  the  great  Holy  Fairs  or  annual  relif^iou;*  cotnniunions  of 
the  people  are  held.  These  quaint  Presbyterian  eanip-nieeting.s  are  said 
to  be  a  relic  of  the  ancient  churches  in  the  Seottish  Highlands.  Tlio 
shores  of  the  harbor  were  occu])ied  in  1J^20  by  innnigrants  from  the  High- 
lands, who  are  now  well  located  on  comfortable  farms.  The  road  follows 
the  S.  Arm,  and  to  the  1.  is  seen  the  N.  Arm,  winding  away  among  tlio 
tall  mountains.  Just  K.  of  the  N.  Arm  is  St.  Anne's  Mt.  which  is  1,070  ft, 
high,  and  pushes  forward  clilVs  S)00  ft.  high  nearly  to  the  water's  edge. 

"  There  is  no  ride  on  the  continent,  of  the  kind,  so  full  of  picturesque 
beauty  and  constant  surprises  as  this  around  tl'e  indentations  of  St.  Anne's 
harbor.  High  blulVs,  bold  shores,  ex(]uisite  sea-views,  mountainous  ranges, 
delicious  air,"  are  found  here  in  abundance.  About  ojjposite  the  light- 
house on  the  bar,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  is  Old  Fort  Puntj  on  which 
the  Kreneh  batteries  were  est  blished.  Near  this  point  is  the  hamlet  of 
En<]lishiown,  chiefly  interesting  as  containing  the  grave  of  the  once  famous 
"  Nova-Seotia  Giant."  The  mountains  back  of  Englishtowu  are  over 
1,000  ft.  high,  and  run  N.  E.  to  Cape  Dauphin,  whence  they  repel  the  sea. 
Imnxy^i^  Sailiiuj  Directions  states  that  "  on  the  N.  side  the  land  is  very 
high,  and  ships-of-war  may  lie  so  near  the  shore  that  a  water-hose  may 
reach  the  fresh  water."  As  to  the  harbor,  the  ancient  description  of 
Charlevoix  still  holds  good:  — 

"  Port  Pto.  Anne,  ns  already  st«te«1,  has  before  it  a  very  sure  roadstead  between 
the  Oibou  Islands.  The  port  is  almost  eonipletoly  rlo,«ed  by  a  tongue  of  land,  leav- 
ing passage  for  only  a  single  ship.  This  port  thus  closed,  is  nearly  two  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  is  oval  in  form.  Ships  can  every  diere  a}>proaoh  the  land,  and  scarcely 
perceive  the  winds,  on  account  of  its  high  banks  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 
....  The  fishing  is  very  abundant ;  great  quantities  of  good  wood  are  found  there, 
such  as  maple,  beech,  wild  cherry,  and  especially  oaks  very  suitable  for  building 
and  mast.<«,  being  28-3S  ft  high;  marble  is  common  ;  most  of  the  land  good,  — in 
Great  and  Little  Labrador,  which  are  onlv  a  leagn -^  and  a  half  off,  the  soil  is  very 
fertile,  and  it  can  contain  a  very  large  number  of  settlers.'' 

In  St.  Anne's  Bay  the  English  ship  Clinnreivill  wa.s  wrecked  in  1597,  and  while 
she  lay  aground  "  tiiere  came  aboord  many  shallops  with  store  of  Freticli  men,  who 
robbed  and  spoyled  all  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  pillaging  the  poore  men  euen 
to  their  very  shirts,  and  vsing  them  in  sauage  manner  :  whereas  they  should  rather 
as  Christians  haue  aided  them  in  that  distresse."  In  ir)2y  this  harbor  was  occui)ied 
by  the  Grtnt  St.  Amlreir  and  the  Marguerite.,  armed  vessels  of  France,  whose  crews, 
together  with  their  English  prisoners,  constructed  a  fort  to  conunand  the  entrance. 
It  was  armed  with  8  cannon,  1,800  pounds  of  powder,  pikes,  and  muskets,  and  was 
garrisoned  by  40  men.  The  commander  of  the  tieet  raised  the  arms  of  the  King  and 
of  Cardinal  Richelieu  over  its  walls,  and  erected  a  chapel,  for  whose  care  he  left  two 


INOONISH. 


Route  39.       159 


JefiuitA.  IIo  then  named  the  harbor  St.  Anne's.  Beftm*  the  done  of  that  winter 
iiion;  than  one  third  of  the  troopH  died  of  the  Mvurvy,  and  the  conunandHiit  aHHSH* 
Minuted  IiIh  Iieut4>nant  on  tlie  pariule-t^roiintl.  In  1>)<S4  the  .lesiiitH  founded  an  In« 
diim  niiHsion  h«'n',  but  hotli  this  and  tlu'  ).r;irrison  were  afterwardM  withdmwri.  Honia 
yearM  lat«'r  a  ?i("v  hattery  andnettlenient  were  erected  here  hy  Nicholas  I)enyH,Bieur 
lie  FroMsac,  \vl»..  traded  lience  wjtii  tiie  Indians  j)f  the  N    of  Cape  Hret(»n. 

Tlie  valley  of  Hie  N.  Arm  of  St.  Anne'H  was  unint-iMl,  in  17l.'{,  to  M.  <le  Kouville, 
a  captain  in  tlie  infantry  of  France,  and  hroMier  of  that  llertel  de  Rouvilh;  who  led 
the  forces  that  destroyed  Schenn-tady,  Deertield,  and  Haverhill.  The  N.  Ann  wan 
Umn  called  Houville's  River.  At  a  later  day  ('oHtahelle,  Iteaucoiu't,  Sr)uhraH,  and 
other  Fn'neli  offlcerrt  had  flsliiuK-stJitionH  on  the  hay.  In  1745  a  fri^fat^f  from  (!om. 
Warren's  Heet  (then  blockading  liouishour);)  enti'red  the  iiarbo. .  and  destroyed  all 
the  property  on  its  shores.  Ht.  Anim's  Ha^  was  aft<!rwardH  called  Pnrl  Dauphin  by 
the  French,  and  the  government  lonj;  Inwitated  aH  to  whether  the  eliicffortreflH  of 
('ape  Breton  should  be  located  here  or  at  LoulnhourK.  The  jajrfect  security  of  the 
harbor  afforded  a  Mtroti(5  argument  in  favor  of  St.  Anne's,  and  it  seemed  eapattle  of 
beiuK  made  impreKuatde  at  slight  ex|)ense.  After  the  foundation  of  Louishourg  1,(XX) 
cords  of  wood  were  Hent  to  that  place  annually  from  St.  Anne's. 

The  road  from  tho  Hnis  d'Or  to  the  N.  shore  of  Capo  Breton  diverges 
from  the  St.  Anno  roiid  before  reachin{;  the  harl/or,  and  hears  to  the  N.  E., 
ulong  the  W.  Hranch.  It  rounds  the  North-Kiver  Valley  by  a  great  curve, 
and  then  sweeps  up  the  harbor-sliore  under  the  Imposing  cliffs  of  St. 
Anne's  Mt.  From  St.  Anne's  to  Injjonish  the  distance  is  about  40  M.,  by 
a  remarkably  picturesque  road  between  the  mountains  and  the  Atlant  c, 
on  a  narrow  plain,  which  recalls  Byron's  lines:  — 

"  The  mnuntulns  look  on  \f  arathon, 
Ami  Marathon  looks  on  tlie  sea." 

"  Grand  and  very  beautiful  are  the  rocky  K^rRes  and  ravines  which  furrow  tha 

hills  and  precipices  between  St.  Atnie's  and  liif^onish FJqually  (^nind  and  pic« 

turesque  is  the  red  syenitic  escarpment  of  Smoky  Cape,  eappud  with  tlje  cloud 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  with  many  a  lofty  heailland  in  the  ha(;kground, 
and  the  peak  of  the  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  just  peeping  above  the  far-distant  hori« 
zon.''  (Brown.) 

The  proud  headland  of  Cape  Smoky  (the  Cop  Knf time  of  the  French)  in 
950  ft.  Iii^h,  and  runs  sheer  down  into  the  sea.  To  tiie  VV.  there  are  peaks 
1,200-1,300  ft.  high;  and  as  the  road  bends  around  the  deep  bights  to  the 
N.,  it  passes  under  summits  more  than  1,400  ft.  high.  Among  these  mas- 
sive hills,  and  facing  Ca{)e  Smoky,  is  the  village  of  Ingonish,  inhabited  by 
Scottish  Catholic  fishermen,  800  of  whom  are  found  in  this  district.  On 
the  island  that  shelters  the  harbor  is  a  fixed  white  light,  237  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

Ingonish  was  one  of  the  early  stations  of  the  French.  In  1729  a  great  church  WM 
built  here,  whose  foundations  only  remain  now  ;  and  in  1849  a  church-l»ell,  marked 
St.  Malo,  1729,  and  weijjshing  2()0  poiuids,  wjw  found  buried  in^tlm  sands  of  tlio 
l)each.  The  settlement  hero  was  probably  ruined  by  the  drawing 'away  of  its  people 
to  aid  in  holding  Ix)ui8bourg  against  the  Anglo-American  forces  In  1740  Ingonisli 
was  the  second  town  on  tlie  island,  and  its  Hect  caught  13,500  quintals  of  fish.  It 
was  destroyed,  in  1745,  by  men-of-war  from  Com.  Warren's  tWct. 

The  highland  i*egion  back  of  Ingonish  has  always  been  famous  for  its  abundance 
of  game,  especially  of  moose  and  caribou.  In  the  winter  of  1789  over  9,000  n.ooso 
were  killed  here  for  the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  brought  ten  shillings  each  ;  and 
for  many  years  this  wholesale  slaughter  went  on,  and  vessels  knew  when  they  wer© 
approaching  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  by  the  odor  of  decaying  carcai>.«es  which 
came  from  the  shor^.  Finally  the  outraged  laws  of  the  Province  were  vindicated  by 
the  occupation  of  Ingonish  by  a  body  of  troops,  who.stf  duty  it  was  to  restraio  tfaiit 


160      Roide  39. 


ST.  PAUL'S  ISLAND. 


I 


I 


moose-huDterit  at  whatever  cost.  Of  late  years  the  tnoose  have  been  nearly  exter- 
minated by  city  sportsmen  ami  by  the  Indians,  who  kill  them  while  helplessly  en- 
tan};U'd  in  the  deep  snow-drifts.  The  scenery  between  Uaddeck  and  Ingnnish 
resembles  that  of  the  North  of  Scotland,  but  U  even  more  picturesque.  Many 
officers  from  the  Halifax  garrison  have  sought  its  niooso  and  trout. 

The  highwny  ends  at  Ingonisli,  and  a  trail  crosses  the  mountains  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  to  Aspy  Bay,  an  open  bight  of  the  sea,  into  which  several  large 
lagoons  empty.  A  specie-ship  was  wrecked  oiY  t'lis  bay  early  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  and  for  many  years  coins  were  thrown  ashore  during  heavy 
»torm».  In  1856  the  first  Atlantic  Cable  was  landed  here.  On  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  Aspy  Bay  is  the  lofty  Sugar-loaf  Mt.,  beyond  which  Cnpe  N(rrth 
runs  out  to  the  N.  E.,  1,000  ft.  high.  Cape  North  is  8  M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  and  between  these  two  points  is  the  St.  Lawrence  Bay, 
on  whose  remote  shores  are  about  400  inhabitants,  while  about  Cape  North 
are  nearly  800  more.  Between  Cape  North  and  Cape  Ray,  NewfouncHand, 
the  distance  is  66  M.,  and  through  this  wide  strait  is  the  middle  entrance 
to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

St.  Paul's  Island. 

St.  Paul's  Island  is  13  M.  E.  N.  E.  of  Cape  North,  and  is  a  vast  mass  of 
rock,  3  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide,  bearing  three  peaks  500  ft.  high,  sur- 
rounded by  tall  cliffs  which  reach  far  below  the  water,  and  indented  by 
the  Trinity  and  Atlantic  Coves.  The  cod,  mackerel,  and  seal  fisheries 
around  the  island  are  very  valuable;  and  the  adjacent  waters  are  of  great 
depth,  and  form  a  constant  current  to  the  S,  E.  St.  Paul's  Island  has  9 
inhabitants;  a  fixed  white  light  (visible  for  20  M.)  on  the  N.  point;  a  pro- 
vision depot  for  wrecked  sailors  in  Trinity  Cove;  a  steam  fog-whistle  in 
Atlantic  Cove;  and  on  the  S.  point  a  revolving  white  light  of  the  first 
class,  visible  for  20  M. 

This  island  has  been  one  of  the  most  fetal  points  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  stretching, 
as  it  does,  across  such  an  important  route  of  n.arine  travtl.  Thousands  of  lives  have 
been  lost  here,  and  human  bones  formerly  strewed  the  beaches,  while  anchors, 
chains,  and  other  relics  of  disaster  were  found  in  the  neigliboring  waters.  The 
Acadians  of  Cheticamp  need  to  visit  the  island  every  spring,  in  order  to  secure  the 
valuable  parts  of  cargoes  and  wrecks  which  the  sea  threw  up  on  the  shore.  Among 
the  largest  of  the  vessels  lost  here  were  the  Horatio,  Canada,  Duncan,  Venus,  a 
transport  with  200  soldiers  (all  drowned),  the  ocean-steumship  Korivegian,  and  the 
ship  Jeasie^  The  latter  was  wrecked  in  mid-winter,  and  30  of  her  people  were  lost ; 
but  11  reached  the  shore,  and  wandered  about  until  thoy  were  all  frozen  to  death. 
With  the  present  system  of  lights,  whistles,  and  cannon,  most  of  the  danger  of  this 
island  is  removed. 

"■  A  dome  of  inhospitable  rvTck  peers  through  the  mist,  one  of  nature's  peniten- 
tiaries, which  no  living  man  voiild  own  and  so  has  been  deeded  to  St.  Paul :  Melita 
is  Eden  to  it.  Tl  ?  saints,  it  appears  to  n;e,  have  been  gifted  with  the  ruggedest  odds 
ond  ends.  Wherever,  on  all  tht'fc  cast-iron  shorels,  there  is  a  flinty  promontory, 
upon  which  Proniethcus  himself  would  have  shuddered  to  be  chained,  there  the 
nan  e  of  an  apostle  has  bei-n  transfixed.  Yonder  is  Cape  North,  the  stony  arrow- 
head of  Cape  Breton,  a  headland,  rather  a  multitudinous  group  of  mountain  head- 
lands, draped  with  gloomy  giandtur,  ajrainst  the  black  cliffs  of  which  the  surf  is 
now  firing  its  snowy  rockets All  in  all,  this  is  a  fine  termination  of  the  pic- 
turesque isle  Steep  and  lofty ,  its  summits  e'-e  darkened  by  steepled  evergreens, and 
its  uaDy  sides  gashed  with  horrid  fissures  and  ravines."    (L.  L.  Noble.) 


THE  BRAS  D*OR. 


Route  40*     161 


40.    The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.    {See  end  of  page  166.) 

The  "Inland  lioufa'*  betircen  Stfflveif  and  nalifnr.  There  nro  Bevcral 
Bteaniers  plyiuR  on  the  Bras  J'Or,  making  tliiilv  trips  in  sumnier.  They  leave  Port 
Mulgrave,  on  the  Strait  of  C.inso,  after  the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  nmll-train.and  mn 
out  tastward,  by  Isle  Madame,  and  up  St.  Peter's  Bay.  Traversing  the  rerenJ^ 
completed  St.  Pet«'r's  Oanal  by  St.  Peter's  vilbge,  the  boat.M  descend  St.  Pete" 
Inlet,  by  Chapel  Island  and  the  Micmac  Indian  Ri-servation  (for  nil  this  region,  seft 
pages  146-7),  and  run  out  into  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  After  visiting  the  vaiioua 
ports  on  the  lakes,  they  round  Point  Acnni,  and  run  around  to  Sydney  daily.  The 
agent  at  Halifax  can  give  particulars  of  sailings,  etc.  The  construction  of  the  rail- 
way from  New  Glasgow  to  the  Strait,  and  of  the  canal,  have  made  the  Pras  d'Or 
very  accessible,  and  removed  the  trials  which  hedged  about  this  deliehtful  t-ip 

The  routes  taken  down  the  lakes  are  various.     We  give  the  old  route  of  thi  Nep 
tune^  although  the  usual  journey  now  is  down  the  Great  Bras  d'Or. 

After  leaving  the  wharves  of  Sydney,  the  steamer  passes  up  to  N.  Syd- 
ney, where  she  makes  a  short  stop,  then  runs  to  the  N.  E.  out  of  Sydney 
Harbor,  with  the  shafts  and  vilhige.s  of  the  Sydney  Mines  on  the  I.  After 
rounding  Cranberry  Head  *he  course  is  N.  W.  for  8-9  M.,  in  the  ocean, 
passing  the  surf-beaten  Bird  Rock  on  the  1.,  while  the  stately  mountains 
towards  St.  Anne's  and  Ingoiiish  (see  page  159)  are  seen  in  advance. 
When  within  2-3  M.  of  Point  Aconi  the  ves.sel  turns  in  to  the  1.,  and  soon 
enters  the  strait  called  the  *  Little  Bras  d'Or,  a  narrow  and  river-like  pas- 
sage through  which  the  tide  sweeps  rapidly,  and  which  is  impassable  for 
large  craft.  The  water-view  is  sometimes  limited  to  a  few  score  feet,  so 
tortuous  and  landlocked  is  the  channel ;  and  there  are  several  small  and 
picturesque  hamlets  on  the  shore,  mostly  inhabited  by  immigrants  from 
the  Hebrides. 

On  the  r.  side  of  the  channel  is  Boularderie  Island,  which  is  about  35 
M.  long  by  2-8  M.  wide,  and  supports  a  small  farming  population.  In 
1713  this  rich  and  beautiful  island  was  granted  by  the  French  Crown  to 
M.  de  la  Boularderie,  an  officer  of  the  French  navy,  who  had  greatly  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of  Port  Royal  and  of  Placentia.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  Highlanders,  who  number  about  1,300,  and  have  several 
small  hamlets.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  the  coal-field  of  Point  Aconi, 
which  has  not  been  operated  for  .several  years. 

The  *  Great  Bras  d'Or  is  the  channel  on  the  W.  side  of  Boularderie,  and 
is  always  used  by  ships  and  large  coasters  bound  into  the  lakes.  It  has 
from  5  to  38  fathoiis  of  water,  and  is  much  grander  in  scenery  than  is  the 
E.  channel.  The  lake-steamers  usually  traverse  this  strait,  rounding  Point 
Aconi,  and  approaching  the  sea-repelling  mountains  of  St.  Anne's  and 
Iiijj;oni.-^li.  On  the  N.  are  seen  the  Ciboux  Islands,  sheltering  St.  Anne's 
I>;iy  (see  page  158),  and  marked  by  a  revolving  red-and-white  light,  which 
is  visible  for  14  M.  On  the  r.  the  dark  and  wind-swept  Cape  Dauphin  is 
approached,  terminating,  in  a  peak  1,045  ft.  high,  the  massive  ridge  which 
occupies  the  peninsula  of  St.  Anne.  Beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Black  Rock 
Point  (1.  side),  the  steimer  passes  through  a  strait  ^  M.  wide,  and  then 
enters  the  Great  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  followed  to  the 


,  ^ 


i 


162      Route  40, 


BADDECK. 


M 
ii 


S.  W.  for  nearly  30  M.,  between  the  mountains  of  St.  Anne  and  the  high- 
lands of  Boularderie. 

The  Neptune  soon  traverses  the  narrow  channel  of  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  enters  a  broader  bay.  Be^'ond  Grove  Point  it  reaches  a  beautiful 
sound  whicli  is  followed  for  25  M.,  and  is  8-4  M.  wide.  (It  is  called  St. 
Andrew's  Channel  on  the  Admiralty  charts,  but  that  name  is  elsewhere  ap- 
plied to  the  Kast  Bay.)  Near  George  Mt.,  on  the  1.,  are  the  low  shores  of 
Lonj?  Island;  and  the  steamer  sometimes  stops  off  Beaver  Harbor,  or  Bois- 
daU  ^lie  course  is  now  laid  towards  the  W.  shore,  rounds  Kempt  Head, 
tl  i.  cx'  'emity  of  Boularderie  Island,  and  passes  Coffin  Island  on  the  r., 
bv  ond  '  tiich  is  seen  the  long  channel  of  the  Great  Brp.s  d'Or.  The  course 
is  n  "'  N.  W.,  and  lies  between  Red  Head  (r.  side)  and  Macka,y  Point  (1. 
Bid  ,  v.iich  are  about  3  M.  apart.  In  front  is  seen  the  village  of  Baddeck, 
whue  inside  of  the  points  Baddeck  Bay  extends  to  the  r.  and  St.  Patrick's 
Channel  to  the  1. 

Baddeck  ( Telegraph  House ;  Loch  Rae  Ffouse ;  McLean  House)  is  the 
capital  of  Victoria  County,  and  the  chief  villnge  on  the  Bras  d'Or.  It  has 
four  churches,  a  court-house,  and  a  government  building,  and  is  the  centre 
of  a  group  of  farming-settlements.  Tlie  harbor  can  accommodate  vessels  of 
500  tons,  and  from  this  point  several  cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  sent 
to  Newfoundland. 

This  locality  was  first  visited  by  the  French,  from  whom  it  received  the 
name  Bedeque,  ^XncQ  Scotticized  to  ^rttZc/ec^' ( accent  on  the  last  syllable). 
It  was  first  settled  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  Royal  Rangers,  and  in 
1793  there  were  10  inhabitants  here.  Near  tho  village  are  the  summer- 
homes  (»f  Prof.  A.  G.  Bell,  of  Washington,  and  George  Kennan,  the  Sibe- 
rian traveller. 

-  i 

"  Although  it  was  Sunday,  T  could  not  but  notice  thrxt  Baddeck  was  a  clean- 
looking  village  of  white  wooden  houses,  of  perhaps  7  8(K)  inhabitants  ;  that  it 
stretched  along  the  shore  for  a  mile  or  mere,  strapglinp  off  into  farm-houses  at  each 
end,  lying  for  the  most  part  on  the  sloping  ourve  of  the  bay.  There  were  a  few 
country-looking  stores  and  shops,  and  on  the  shore  three  or  four  rather  decayed 
and  shaky  wharves  ran  into  the  water,  and  a  lew  schooners  laj'  at  anchor  near 
them  ;  and  the  usual  decaying  warehouses  leaned  about  the  docks.  A  peaceful  and 
perhaps  a  thriving  place,  but  not  a  bustling  place 

'*  Having  attributed  the  quiet  of  Baddeck  on  Sunday  to  religion,  we  did  not  know 
to  what  to  lay  the  quiet  on  Monday.  But  its  peacefulness  continued.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  the  farmers  began  to  farm,  and  the  traders  to  trade,  and  the  sailors  to 
sjiil  ;  but  the  tourist  felt  that  he  had  come  into  a  place  of  rest.  The  pron\ise  of  the 
red  sky  tiie  evening  before  was  fultilled  in  another  royal  day.  There  was  an  inspira- 
tion in  tlie  air  that  one  looks  for  rather  in  the  mountains  than  on  the  sea-coast,  it 
seemed  like  some  new  and  gentle  compoutid  of  sea-air  and  land-air,  which  was  the 
perfe'tion  of  breathing  material.  In  this  atmosphere,  which  seems  to  How  over  all 
these  Atlantic  isles  at  this  season,  one  endures  a  great  deal  of  exercise  with  little 
fatigue  ;  or  he  is  content  to  sit  still  and  has  no  feeling  of  sluggishness.  Mere  living 
i-  M  kind  of  hiippiiie^s,  and  the  eisy-going  traveller  is  satistied  with  little  to  do  and 
less  ^o  ^ee.     Ix-t  the  render  not  understand  that  we  are  reconmiending  him  to  go  to 

I'aldeck.     Far  front  it There  are  few  whom  it  would  pay  to  go  a  thousand 

miles  for  t'le  sake  of  sitting  on  the  dock  at  Baddeck  when  the  »\\n  goes  down,  and 
wntching  the  purple  lights  on  the  islands  and  the  distant  hills,  the  red  Hush  on  tho 
horizon  and  on  tlie  lake,  and  the  creeping  on  of  gray  twilight.  You  can  set*  all  this 
as  well  elsewhere ?  I  am  not  so  suie.  There  is  a  harnionv  of  be-Mitv  about  the 
Brtis  d'Or  at  Baddeck  which  is  lacking  in  many  scenes  of  more  pretension.' 
^Charles  Dudley  Warners  Baddeck;  and  that  Sort  of  Thing.) 


DCC 

th( 

wit 

lifel 

wij 

de 


custi 


BADDECK. 


Route  40.      163 


Ion. 


The  tourist  who  stops  at  Baddeck  should  visit  the  Indian  village  which 
occup  es  a  grassy  point  near  the  town.  It  pertains  to  one  of  the  clans  of 
the  Micmac  tribe,  and  usually  has  12-15  wigwams.  Visitors  are  received 
with  a  not  unkindly  indiirerenco,  and  may  here  study  Indian  domestic 
life,  the  curious  manner  of  carrying  babies,  and  the  architecture  of  the 
wigwam.  Some  of  the  people  can  talk  Knglish.  The  visitor  should  en- 
de  ivor  to  see  one  of  the  Mi  mac  Catholic  prayer-books,  printed  (at  Vienna) 
in  a  singular  hieroglyphic,  and  bought  by  the  Indians  at  the  Trappist  mon- 
astery in  Tracadie.  'Hie  camp  at  Baddeck  is  broken  up  in  the  autumn 
and  the  people  retire  to  their  reservations  near  the  hunting-grounds. 

The  Micmacs  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Breton  still  retain  nuiny  of  their  ancient 
customs,  and  are  of  purer  blood  than  any  other  tribe  on  the  Atlantic  cojist.  They 
number  about  1,600  (and  1,4(X)  in  New  Brunswick),  and  occupy  several  reservations 
in  the  Province,  where  tliey  are  cared  for  and  protected  by  the  Dominion  govern- 
ment. Under  this  paternal  care  (stronjrly  contrastinjj  with  the  Indian  policv  of  the 
United  States)  the  abori;;ines  are  steadily  increasing  in  numbers  and  ap|)roaching  a 
better  standard  of  civilization,  and  are  loyal  and  useful  subjects  of  their  "great 
mother,"  Queen  Vietoria.  The  discipline  of  families  is  we'll  preserved  by  the  use  of 
corporeal  punishment.  Warm  parental  affection  is  a  strongly  marked  feature,  and 
the  subordination  of  the  women  is  still  maintained,  thon<.;h  amelior.ited  by  the  in- 
fluences of  civilizjitinn.  The  Micmacs  have  exchanged  their  fonner  belief  in  and 
worship  of  the  hostile  principles  of  goo<l  and  evil  for  the  creed  of  the  Roman  Oath> 
olic  Church,  of  which  they  are  devout  communicants. 

Their  language  has  many  curious  verbal  coincidences  with  that  of  the  Gaelic  race, 
and  is  said  to  be  "  copious,  flexible,  and  expressive  '"  Philologists  have  also  traced 
a  marked  analogy  between  the  Greek  and  Micmac  languages,  basing  thereon  a  sharp 
rebuke  to  llenan's  flippant  attack  on  the  aboriginal  tongues  of  America. 

Baddeck  to  Whycocomagh,  see  Route  41.  Baddeck  to  St.  Anne's  Bay, 
see  Route  39.  A  road  runs  from  this  point  nearly  N.  for  10  M.  to  the 
*brks  of  the  Big  Badij^ipck  River,  where  trout  are  found.  To  the  N.  are 
the  Baddeck  Mts.,  an  unexplored  and  savage  highland  region  which  ex- 
tends for  100  M.  to  the  N.,  as  far  as  Cape  North,  with  a  bnadth  of  15-25 
M.  This  mountain-region  has  boun  a  lavoriie  limiliiig-gntund  for  moose 
and  caribou,  which  are  now  carefully  preserved  by  Provincial  game-laws; 
and  it  also  contains  bears,  wolves  and  foxes,  rubb.ts  and  hares,  beaver, 
mink,  and  nmskrats. 

The  Baddeck  Falls,  on  the  north  fork  of  the  Big  Baddeck  River,  reached 
by  a  pleasant  drive  of  about  10  M.,  are  verv  beautiful,  and  have  been  com- 
pared with  the  (Crystal  Cascade  in  the  White  Mts.  They  are  situated  in  a 
narrow  g*>rge,  whose  precipitous  sides  are  high  enough  to  give  an  idea  of 
grandeur  as  well  as  picturesqueness. 

The  Mitrr/uree  lih'cr  may  be  reached  from  Baddeck  (in  28  M.)bya 
picturestjue  road,  ascending  the  long  valley,  and  crossing  the  Hunter's 
Mt.,  with  fine  views  over  the  r.ras.d'Or.  The  pleasant  rurt\l  district  of 
tlie  Mi  Idle  Valley  is  then  traversed,  and  the  road  loads  through  a  rcmark- 
nble  pass  of  the  hills  and  enters  the  rich  valley  of  the  Mnrgjirce,  famous 
for  its  fishing  (see  Route  42).  Visitors  to  this  district  usuallv  board  in 
the  farm-houses,  where  plain  and  substantial  fare  is  given. 

The  Middle  River  lies  to  the  W.  of  Baddeck,  and  is  approached  by  the  Wbyco- 
conmgh  road  (Route  41).  The  vallev  has  over  1,0  0  iuhiibitants,  of  Gaelic  High- 
land race,  many  of  whom  are  unac(juainted  w  ith  t.  e  Knglish  language.  Near  their 
Ce  tlements  aie  proliPc  tront-str^ams.  where  fine  sport  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  early 
gunniier.  The  chief  settlements  are  respei  tively  12,  Mi  and  16  M.  from  Baddeck, 
ad  nca^  the  head  of  the  ri  er  is  an  i;ndeveioped  gold  district.    A  few  niijes  up  thif 


■01 


>Vi 


li 


164      Rcute  Ifi. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


l;X'l 


river  is  "  a  Gaelic  settlement  of  farmers.  The  river  here  flows  through  lovely  mead> 
0W8,  sandy,  fertile,  and  sheltered  by  hills,  —  a  green  Eden,  one  of  the  few  peaceful 
Inhabited  spots  in  the  world.  1  could  conceive  of  no  news  coming  to  these  High- 
landers later  than  tlie  defeat  of  the  Pretender. " 

In  1801  the  total  population  of  the  Island  of  Cape  Breton  was  2,513,  including 
Englishmen,  Acadians,  and  Micmacs.  Tn  1802  the  first  emigrant-ship  arrived  at 
Sydney  front  Scotland,  and  since  that  time  over  25,000  Scottish  immigrants  have 
landed  and  settled  on  this  island.  They  rapidly  spread  over  the  W.  coast  and  occu- 
pied the  shores  of  the  llras  d"Or  and  its  connwted  waters,  and  Cape  Breton  is  now, 
and  probably  will  ever  be,  a  Scottish  land.  After  the  dispersal  of  the  Highland  claoa 
and  the  final  pacification  of  Northern  Scotland,  the  chieftains  and  nobles  found  it 
more  profitable  to  devote  their  esbites  to  cattle-raising  than  to  maintain  the  old  ten- 
antry system.  So  thousands  of  poor  tenant-farmers  were  expelled  from  their  hold- 
ings and  their  ancient  homes  to  malie  room  for  deer-parls  or  sheep-farms  among 
the  glens.  Driven  forth  against  their  will,  they  crossed  the  Atlantic  to  settle  on 
the  New- World  shores,  in  a  fairer  but  less  honored  land.  The  selfish  policy  of  the 
powerful  nobles  depopulated  broad  districts  of  the  Highlands.  *'  Many  who  had 
friends  in  the  colonies,  and  linew  what  they  had  to  e.xpect,  emigrated  with  great 
alacrity  ;  but  thousands,  who  had  no  such  desire  on  the  contrary  the  greatest 
repugnance  to  leave  the  land  of  their  fathers,  the  familiHr  hills,  and  the  green 
slopes  of  Lochaber,  were  heart-broken  at  the  idea  of  being  separated  from  them  by 
a  thousand  leagues  of  raging  sea."  This  hardy  rural  population  is  p«Muliarly  adapted 
to  develop  a  new  country  like  Cape  Breton,  and  can  also  endure  the  great  fluctu- 
ations of  the  climate,  which  range  from  32''  below  zero  to  9fi°  aitove.  The  descend- 
ants of  these  immigrants  are  superior  to  the  native  Highlanders,  both  phy.'ically 
and  mentally,  and  pay  more  attention  to  the  education  of  their  children  and  to  the 
general  estate  of  the  nation 

On  leaving  Baddeck  the  stenmer  runs  out  nround  Mackny's  Point,  and 
ascends  the  *  Lit  tit  Bras  (V  Or  Lake,  to  the  S.  W.  This  sheet  of  water  is 
5-6  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  on  the  E.  by  the  peninsuhi  of  St.  Andrew 
and  the  hills  back  of  Sun.icadie  and  Christmas  Island,  and  on  the  W.  by 
the  h'ghland?  of  the  Watchabaktchkt  peninsula. 

*'  The  most  electric  American,  heir  of  all  the  nervous  diseases  of  all  the 
ages,  could  not  but  find  peace  in  this  scene  of  tranquil  beaut;,,  and  sail 
on  into  a  great  and  deepening  contentment.  Would  the  voyage  could  last 
for  an  age,  with  the  same  sparkling  but  trnnquil  sea,  and  the  same  en- 
virotnneiit  of  hills,  near  and  remote.  The  hills  approached  and  fell  away 
in  lines  of  undulating  grace,  draped  with  a  tender  color  which  helped  to 
carry  the  imagination  beyond  the  earth. 

'•  Certainly,  as  we  glided  out  upon  the  summer  waters  and  began  to 
get  the  graceful  outline  of  the  widening  shores,  it  seemed  as  if  we  hnd 

taken  passage  to  the  Fortunate  Isles It  was  enough  to  sit  on  deck 

forward  of  the  wheel-house,  and  absorb,  by  all  the  senses,  the  delicious 
day.  With  such  weather  perpetual  and  such  scenery  always  present,  sin  in 
this  world  would  soon  become  an  impossil)ility."   (Warner's  Bad<hck.) 

The  picturesque  Grand  Narrows,  15  M.  from  Bad<leck,  and  2  AI.  long 
by  1  M  wide,  are  also  called  the  Strait  of  Bnrra.  its  shores  being  pe(>pled 
by  Campbells  and  McNeils,  from  IJarra,  in  the  Hebrides. 

The  railway  crosses  here  on  a  six-.vpan  steel  bridge,  which  cost  $760,000. 

The  steamer  now  enters  the  *  Oreat  Bras  d'Or  Lake,  a  noble  expali^e 
of  water  with  a  depth  of  from  15  to  57  fathoms.     It  is  difficult  to  state  itw 


size 
toll 
neal 
£as 


river. 


THE  BRAS  DOR. 


Route  40.     165 


in  to 

hnd 

■deck 

lious 

ill  in 

(long 


itw 


\ 


size,  on  account  of  the  numerous  deep  bays,  but  from  the  Strait  of  Barrn 
to  the  S.  shore  it  is  18  M.  long  (N.  and  S.),  and  from  Malaga wdatchlct  it  is 
nearly  20  M.  (E.  and  W.).  From  the  head  of  West  Bay  to  the  head  of 
East  Bav,  a  vessel  could  sail  in  a  straight  c»)urse  nearly  50  M, 

"  The  Braa  d'Or  is  the  most  beautiful  Halt-water  lake  I  have  ever  seen,  and  more 

beautiful  than  we  had  imagined  a  body  of  !*alt  water  could  be The  water  seeks 

out  all  the  low  places,  and  ramifies  the  interior,  runnin^;^  away  into  lovely  bays  and 
lagoons,  leaving  slender  tongues  of  land  and  picturesque  islands,  and  bringing  into 
the  recesses  of  the  land,  to  the  remote  country  farms  and  settlements  the  Havor  of 
Bait,  and  the  fish  and  moUusks  of  the  brmy  sea.  There  is  very  little  tide  at  any 
time,  so  that  the  shores  are  clean  and  sightly  for  the  most  part,  like  those  of  a  fresh- 
water lake.  It  has  all  the  pleasantness  of  a  freih  water  lake,  with  all  the  advan- 
tages of  a  salt  one.  In  the  streima  which  run  into  it  are  the  sjieckled  trout,  the 
shad,  and  the  salmon ;  out  of  its  depths  are  hooked  the  cod  and  the  mackerel,  and 
in  its  bays  fatten  the  oyster.  This  irregular  lake  is  about  1(X)  M.  long,  If  you  meas- 
ure it  skilfully,  and  in  some  places  10  M.  broad ;  but  so  indented  is  it,  that  I  am 
not  sure  but  one  would  need,  as  we  were  informed,  to  ride  1,000  M.  to  go  round  it, 
following  all  its  incursions  into  the  land.  The  hills  around  it  are  never  mere  than 
5  -  600  ft.  high,  but  they  are  high  enough  for  reposeful  l)eauty,  and  offer  everywhere 
pleasing  lines."    (Warner's  Badderk  ) 

Soon  after  passing  the  Strait  of  Barra  the  broad  estuary  of  the  River 
Dcnys  is  seen  on  the  r.  Deep  ship-channels  may  be  followed  thither,  pass- 
ing at  first  through  a  cluster  of  islets,  and  then  into  the  North  Basin, 
whence  the  Portage  Inlet  runs  N.  to  within  ^  M.  of  the  Whycocomagh 
Basin.  The  Inner  Basin  is  7  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  w'de,  and  is  sometimes 
visited  by  ships,  which  load  here  with  lumber  for  England.  The  River 
Denvs  debouches  into  tlie  S.  W.  angle  of  this  basin.  There  are  five  ham« 
lets  of  from  150  to  300  inhabitants  each,  situated  on  the  basins  and  the 
river,  most  of  the  people  being  from  the  Western  Isles  of  Scotland. 

The  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  Bnisd'Or  was  Bideauborh ;  St.  Patrick's  Channel 
was  called  Ouamech;  the  River-Denys  Rasin,  Mirmini^vash ;  the  West  Bay,  Paqut' 
lacadie;  and  the  Ea.st  Bay,  Piscnbnuash.  For  the  convenience  of  trading  with  the 
numerous  Indians  who  inhabited  these  shoves,  M.  Denys  established  his  forts  at  St. 
Peters  and  St.  Anne's ;  but  there  is  no  record  of  settlements  by  the  French  on  the 
lakes.     The  chief  seat  of  the  Indians  is  now  on  the  shore  where 

"  Escnsoni  8  fountains 
Pour  down  tiieir  crystal  tide. " 

The  beautiful  basin  and  river  of  Donys  were  named  in  honor  of  their  discoverer, 
Nicholas  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac,  who  was  appointed  by  King  Louis,  in  1664, 
"  Uovernor  and  Lieutenant-General  "  of  Cape  Breton  and  the  adjacent  shores. 

When  the  steamer  is  about  4  M.  from  the  Strnit  of  Barra,  Benacadie 
Point  is  seen  on  the  1.,  7-8  M.  distant,  below  which  is  the  great  opening 
of  the  East  Bay  or  St.  Andrew's  Channel,  running  in  to  the  N.  E.  for 
nearly  25  M.  (see  page  147).  10-  12  M.  below  the  strait  is  the  open  ng  of 
the  long  and  sinuous  harbor  of  xMclafiaiodatchfcf,  which  approaches  the 
marble  formations  of  the  western  highlands,  nnd  has  a  village  of  350  in- 
habitants.    To  the  S   E.  nre  the  islands  oH'  St.  Peter's  Inlet. 

Opening  away  on  the  right  is  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the  (ircat  Bras  d'Or, 
which  is  called  the  Went  Bay,  or  St.  Gcorr/e's  Channel,  and  is  about  15  M. 
long  and  7  M.  wide.     It  contains  nunierou:  islands,  and  is  separated  from 


m 

,  T  J, 
'■   •  .^. 


liiSI 


i 


166      Houte  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


the  River-Denys  Basin  by  a  range  of  massive  highlands  on  the  N.  The 
N.  shore  hills  are  700  -  770  ft.  high,  and  those  on  the  S.  shore  are  250  -  620 
ft.  high.     The  shores  are  thinly  inhabited. 

"  The  only  other  thing  of  note  the  Bras  d'Or  offered  us  before  we  reached  West 
Bay  was  the  finest  show  of  medusae  or  jelly-fish  that  could  be  produced.  At  first 
there  were  dozens  of  these  disk-shaped  transparent  creatures,  and  then  hundreds, 
starring  the  wat«r  like  marguerites  sprinkled  on  a  meadow,  and  of  sizes  from  that 
of  a  teacup  to  a  dinner-plate.  We  soon  ran  into  a  school  of  them,  a  convention,  a 
herd  as  extensive  »is  the  vast  buffalo  droves  on  the  plains,  a  collection  as  thick  as 
clover-blossoms  in  a  field  in  June,  miles  of  them  apparently  ;  and  at  length  the  boat 
had  to  push  its  way  through  a  mass  of  them  which  covered  the  water  like  the  leaves 
of  the  pond-lily,  and  filled  the  deeps  far  down  with  their  beautiful  contracting  and 
expanding  forms  I  did  not  suppose  there  were  so  many  jelly-fishes  in  all  the  world." 
(Warner's  Bar/derk.) 

"The  scenery  of  the  lakes  Is  exceedingly  striking  and  diversified.  I^ng  rocky 
cliffs  and  e.«carpments  rise  in  some  places  abruptly  fVom  the  water's  edge  ;  in  others, 
undulating  or  rolling  hills  predominate,  fringed  on  the  shores  by  low  white  cliffs  of 
gypsum  or  red  conglomerate:  whilst  the  deep  basins  and  channels,  which  bninch 
off  in  all  directions  from  the  central  expanse  of  waters,  studded  with  innumerable 
islets  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  spruce  and  hemlock,  present  views  the  most 
picturesque  and  diversified  imaginable"    (Brown.) 

"  So  wide  is  it,  and  so  indented  by  broad  bays  and  deep  coves,  that  a  coasting 
journey  around  it  is  equal  in  extent  to  a  voyage  across  the  Atlanlic.  Besides  the 
distant  mountains  that  rise  proudly  from  the  remote  shores,  there  are  many  noble 
islands  in  its  expanse,  and  forest-covered  peninsulas,  bordered  with  beaches  of  glit- 
tering white  pebbles.  But  over  all  this  wide  landscape  there  broods  a  spirit  of 
primeval  solitude For,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  Golden  Arm  is  a  very  use- 
less piece  of  water  in  this  part  of  tiie  world  ;  liighly  favored  as  it  is  by  nature,  land- 
locked, deep  enough  for  .  'ssels  of  all  burden,  easy  of  access  on  the  Gulf  side,  free 
from  fogs,  and  only  separated  from  the  ocean  at  its  southern  end  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land,  about  ^  M.  wide  ;  abounding  in  timber,  coal,  and  gypsum, and  valuable  for  its 
fisheries,  especially  in  winter,  yet  the  Bras  d'Or  is  undeveloped  for  want  of  that 
element  which  seems  to  be  alien  to  the  Colonies,  namely,  enterprise.''^    (Cozzens.  ) 

'*  The  climate  of  Baddeck  in  summer  is  delightful,  the  nights  being  always  cool 
and  the  heat  of  the  day  never  oppressive  ;  on  only  one  occasion  last  July  did  the 
thermometer  indicate  80^.  The  air  has  a  life  and  an  elasticity  in  it  unknown  in 
lower  latitudes  during  the  summer  months.  .  .  .  The  water-view  is  one  of  the  finest 
to  be  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  clear  blue  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  her©  seven 
or  eight  miles  wide,  are  apparently  hemmed  in  by  ranges  of  monntains,  which  in 
some  places  rise  abruptly  from  the  water  in  lofty  cliffs  of  plaster  or  gypsum,  worn 
by  the  action  of  water  into  strange  and  fantastic  forms.  There  vvliite  cliffs,  fringed 
vith  dark  evergreens,  form,  with  the  red  conglomerate  and  bright  green  fields 
stretching  down  to  the  water's  edge,  a  most  beautiful  picture,  which  is  appro- 
priately framed  witli  long  lines  of  mountains.  The  Bras  d'Or,  though  an  arm  of 
the  sea,  has  here  a  tide  of  only  from  six  to  eiirhteen  inches,  ko  that  those  fond  of 
aquatic  pursuits  arc  not  buniened  with  a  head  current  wlien  homeward  bound." 

Cape  Breton  Convections.  —  The  steamboat  Marion  leaves  Sydney  on  Mondays, 
W«diiesd  i\ .-,  ail'  F'nda.vs,  calling  at  Boulardarie,  Haddeik,  Grjtnd  Narrows,  St. 
Peters,  atid  (JriiidMine  Kerry,  coniKM'tiiig  with  the  train.  Returning,  it  leaves 
Muigave  ou  airival  of  train,  for  S.dney,  calling  at  above  points,  and  connect- 
iiiir  \v:th  steamer  Mni  nnUn  at  Badfb'i  k.  for  ^Vhv(■ocomagh   and  Little  Narrows. 

The  steamboat  Ntptune  leaves  Mulgrave  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays, 
on  arrival  of  the  train,  for  East  Bay,  calling  at  Grandique  terry  and  St.  Peters. 
Returning  in  time  to  connect  with  the  train. 

The  steamship  Eimouski  leaves  Mulgrave  every  Monday  snd  Friday,  for  Ari- 
chatand  Canso;  Tuesdays  and  Thursdays,  for  Port  Hood  ;  Uednesdays  and  Satur- 
days, for  Ouysboro'.     Ileturni  g  the  following  mornings,  to  connict  with  train. 

The  Cape-Breton  Railway  runs  from  the  Strait  of  Canso  along  the  W.  side  of  the 
Island  to  Grand  Narrows,  Boisdale,  North  Sydney,  and  Sydney.  'I  he  train  leaves 
P<iint  Tu/per,  connected  bv  ferry  with  Mulgrave;  and  near  Orangedale,  7  M. 
from  Whycocomagh,  comes  in  siglit  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  followed  for  40  M. 


i 


mdays, 
W8,  St. 
leaves 
iniieot- 
rrows. 
idays, 
eters. 

j)r  Ari- 
iSatur- 
)in. 
lof  the 
lleaves 
7  M. 
140  M. 


i 


ST.  PATRICK'S  CHANNEL.      Jioute  41-      167 

41.    Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Fort  Hood. —  St  Patrick's 

Channel  and  Whycocomagh. 

This  route  is  traversed  by  the  Royal  mail-stage,  leaving  Baddeck  nt  noon,  and 
reaching  Whycocomagh  after  4  o'clock,  "nd  Mabou  at  9.     The  distance  is  50  Si. 

The  loute  now  is  on  leaving  IJaddeck  along  the  ^hore  road  for  6  M.,  within  a 
stone's  throw  of  the  waters  of  St  Patrick's  channel,  and  part  of  that  distance  the 
edge  of  the  road  is  lapped  by  its  waters. 

Mr.  Warner  thus  describes  the  road  between  Whycocomagh  and  Baddeck:  "  From 
the  time  we  first  struck  the  Bras  d'Or  for  thirty  miles  we  rode  in  conaUint  sight  of 
its  magnificent  water.  Now  we  were  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  on  the  hill- 
side skirting  a  point  or  following  an  indentation  ;  and  now  we  were  diving  into  a 
narrow  valley,  crossing  a  stream,  or  turning  a  sharp  corner,  but  always  with  the 
Bras  d'Or  in  view,  the  afternoon  sun  shining  on  it,  softening  the  outlines  of  its  em- 
hracing  hills,  casting  a  shadow  from  its  wooded  islands  Sometimes  we  opened  upon 
a  broad  water  plain  bounded  by  the  Watchabaktchkt  hills,  and  ag;iin  we  looked  over 
hill  after  hill  receding  into  the  soft  and  hazy  blue  of  the  land  beyond  the  great  mass 
of  the  Bras  d'Or  The  reader  can  com]  are  the  view  and  the  ride  to  the  Bay  of 
Naples  and  the  Cornice  Road  ;  we  did  nothing  of  the  sort :  we  held  on  to  the  seat, 
prayed  that  the  harness  of  the  pony  might  not  break,  and  gave  constant  expressiou 
to  our  wonder  and  delight." 

St.  Patrick's  Channel  is  20  M.  long  by  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  made 
highh'  picturesque  by  its  deep  coves,  wooded  points,  and  lofty  shores.  Its 
general  course  is  followed  by  the  highway,  affording  rich  views  from  some 
of  the  higher  grades.  After  leaving  Baddeck  the  road  strikes  across  the 
country  for  about  5  M.  to  the  Btiddeck  River,  in  whose  upper  waters  are 
large  trout.  Bej-ond  this  point  the  road  swings  around  the  blue  expanse 
of  Indian  Bay,  approaching  a  bold  hill-range  650  ft.  iiigli,  and  crosses  the 
Middle  River,  at  whose  mouth  is  an  Indian  reservation.  Frequent  glimpses 
are  afforded  of  St.  Patrick's  Channel,  well  to  the  1.  across  the  green  mead- 
ows. A  range  of  lofty  heights  now  forces  the  road  nearer  to  the  water, 
and  it  passes  within  2  M.  of  the  remarkable  strait  known  as  the  Little 
Nfi/'rowSj  about  which  there  are  150  inhabitants. 

A  road  leads  N.  W.  P  M  into  Ainslie  Glen,  and  to  the  great  Alnslie  Lake, 
which  covers  25  square  Jiiles,  and  is  the  source  of  the  Margsiree  River  Its  shores 
are  broken  and  rugged,  and  are  occupied  by  a  hardy  population  of  Highlanders. 
Petroleum  spring^:  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity  (see  page  109). 

Beyond  the  Little  Narrows  is  a  magnificent  basin,  15  M.  long  and  3-6 
M.  wide,  into  whose  sequestered  and  forest-bound  waters  large  ships  make 
their  way,  and  are  here  laden  with  timber  for  Europe. 

The  road  runs  around  the  sucoessive  spurs  of  the  Salt 
3ft.,  a  massive  ridge  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  Basin,  and  many  very  attractive 
views  are  gained  from  its  upper  reaches.  From  the  crest  of  Salt  Mountain 
portions  of  the  four  counties  of  the  island  can  be  seen  on  clear  days.  It 
affords  a  niagnificeiit  view,  and  is  a  comparatively  easy  though  steep  climb. 
The  water  is  of  a  rich  blue,  partly  owing  to  its  depth,  which  is  from  3  to 
20  fathoms. 

Whycocomagh  (Bay-View  Hotel)  is  a  Scottish  Presbyterian  hamlet, 
situated  at  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  Basin,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  Trosach- 
like  scenery.     There  are  about  400  inliabitants  in  this  neighborhood, 


I  '■■  ■ 

,  ''ill' 


■  4u>^- 


168      Route  4^. 


WHYCOCOMAGH. 


i 


whence  small  cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  shipped  to  Newfoundland. 
Near  this  point  is  a  marble  cave,  with  several  chambers  3  -  8  ft.  high ;  and 
foxes  are  often  seen  among  the  hills.  It  is  claimed  that  variable  deposits 
of  magnetic  and  hematitic  iron-ore  have  been  founa  in  this  vicinity. 
Stages  run  30  M.  S.  W.  from  Whycocomagh  to  Port  Hastings,  on  the  tame 
and  uninteresting  road  known  as  the  Victorui  Line. 

♦'  What  we  first  saw  was  an  inlet  of  the  Bms  d'Or,  called  by  the  driver  Ilogamah 
Bay.  At  its  entrance  were  long,  wooded  islands,  V)eyond  which  we  saw  the  backs 
of  graceful  hills,  like  the  capes  of  f^on.e  pottic  s-ea-coast  ...  A  peaceful  place,  this 
Whycocomagh.  The  lapsihg  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or  n.ade  a  summer  music  all 
along  the  quiet  street ;  the  bay  lay  smiling  with  its  i  lands  in  front,  and  an  amphi- 
theatre of  hills  rose  beyond."  (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

On  leav  ng  Whycocomagh  the  quaint  double  peaks  of  Salt  Mt.  are  seen 
in  retrospective  views,  and  the  road  soon  enters  the  Skye  «.  i,  a  long, 
narrow  valley,  which  is  occupied  by  the  Highlanders.  The  wagon  soon 
reaches  the  picturesque  gorge  of  the  Mahou  Valley^  with  the  mountainous 
mass  of  Cape  Mabou  in  front.  The  Mull  River  is  seen  on  the  1.,  glitter- 
ing far  below  in  the  valley,  and  erelont;  the  widenings  of  the  sea  are 
reached,  and  the  traveller  arrives  at  Mabou.    Stages  to  Port  Hastings,  see 

page  143. 

_ — . •  II    -{ 

A  steamboat  runs  from  Baddeck  to  Whvcocomagh  twice  a  week.  This 
route  is  much  easier  for  the  traveller  than  that  by  the  stage,  and  reveals  as 
much  natural  beauty,  if  made  during  the  hours  of  daylight.  The;  passage 
»f  the  Little  Narrows  and  the  approach  to  Whycocomagh  are  its  most 
striking  phases. 


turi 


42.  The  West  Coast  of  Gape  Breton.  — Port  Hood  and  Mar- 

garee. 

The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Port  Hastitt^s  every  evening,  at  about  4  o'clock,  after 
the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  mail-train.  Fare  to  Port  Hood,  $2  ;  $  1  by  steamer,  in 
summer. 

Distances.  —  Port  Hasting:?  to  Low  Point,  7  M. ;  Crefatnish,  9  ;  Long  Point,  14 ; 
Judiqne,  18;  Little  Judiquc,  24;  Por'j  Hood,  28;  Mabou,  38 ;  Broad  Cove  Inter- 
vale, 60  ;  Margaree  Forks,  G8 ;  Margaree,  76  ;  Cheticamp,  88. 

The  tirst  portion  of  this  route  is  interesiing,  as  it  affords  frequent  pleas- 
ant views  of  the  Strait  of  Caiiso  a'  d  its  bright  maritime  processions.  The 
trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  from  Port  Hastings  to  the  N.  W.,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  small  hamlets  is  seen  along  the  bases  of  the  highlands.  Just 
beyond  Low  Point  is  the  Catholic  village  of  the  same  name,  looking  out 
over  the  sea.  The  road  now  skirts  the  wider  waters  of  St.  George's  Bay^ 
over  which  the  dark  Antigonish  Mts.  are  visible.  Be^'ond  the  settlements 
of  Creignish  and  Long  Point  is  the  populous  district  of  Judique,  inha1> 


PORT  HOOD. 


Route  4^.      169 


k,  after 


pleas- 
The 
suc- 
Jupt 
g  out 
Bay, 
nents 
ihab' 


o 


ited  by  Scottish  Catholics,  who  are  devoted  to  the  sea  and  to  agriculture. 
The  Judiquers  are  famous  throughout  the  Province  fjr  their  great  stature, 
and  are  well  known  to  the  American  fishermen  on  account  of  their  pug- 
nacity. Yankee  crews  landing  on  th's  coast  are  frequently  assailed  by 
these  pugilistic  Gaels,  and  the  stalwart  men  of  Judique  usually  come  off 
victorious  in  the  fistic  encounters.  The  district  has  about  2,000  inhab- 
itants. 

Port  Hood  (two  inns)  is  the  capital  of  Inverness  County,  and  is  a  pic- 
turesque little  seaport  of  about  800  inhabitants.  The  American  fishermen 
in  the  Gulf  frequently  take  shelter  here  during  rough  weather,  and  400 
sail  have  been  seen  in  the  port  at  one  time.  There  are  large  coal-deposits 
in  the  vicinity,  which,  however,  have  not  yet  been  developed  to  any 
extent.  The  town  was  founded  by  Capt.  Smith  and  a  party  of  New- 
Englanders,  in  1790.  "  This  port  affords  the  only  safe  anchorage  on  the 
W.  coast  of  Cape  Breton  to  the  N.  of  the  Gut  of  Canso,"  and  is  marked 
by  a  red-and-white  light,  near  the  highway,  on  the  S.  Off  shore  is  Smith's 
Island,  which  is  2  M.  long  and  210  ft.  high,  beyond  which  are  the  high 
shores  of  Henry  Island.  A  stage-road  runs  N.  E.  to  Hillsborough,  where 
it  met'ts  the  road  from  Mabou,  ^nd  thence  passes  E.  to  Whycoeomagh  (see 
page  167).  Steamers  run  from  Mulgrave  to  Port  Hood  every  Tuesday  and 
Thursday. 

Mabou  (Cameron  House)  is  10  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Hood,  and  is  reached 
by  a  dally  stage  passing  along  the  shore-road.  It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
broad  estuary  of  the  Mabou  River,  amid  bold  and  attmctive  scenery,  and 
conta'ns  about  800  inhabitants.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  highland  district  of 
Cape  Mabou,  averaging  1,000  ft.  in  height,  and  thickly  wooded.  The 
Gulf-shore  road  to  Margaree  runs  between  this  range  and  the  sea,  passing 
the  marine  hamlets  of  Cape  Mabou  and  Sight  Point.  There  is  an  inland 
road,  behind  the  hills,  which  is  entered  by  following  the  Whycoeomagh 
road  to  the  head  of  the  estuary  of  the  Mabou  and  then  diverging  to  the 
N.  E.  This  road  is  traversed  by  a  tri-weekly  stage,  and  loads  up  by  the 
large  farming-settlement  at  Broad  Cove  Intervale,  to  the  W.  shores  of 
Lake  Ainslie  (see  page  167),  which  has  several  small  Scottish  hamlets 
among  the  glens. 

"The  angler  who  haa  once  driven  through  Ainslie  Glen  to  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  launched  his  canoe  upon  its  broad  waters,  and  entered  its  swiftly  running 
p^.reani,  will  never  be  content  to  return  until  he  has  fished  its  successive  pools  to  its 
■vbi-y  mouth." 

A  road  leads  out  from  near  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  village  of 
Broad  Cove  Chapel,  on  the  (lulf  coast,  traversing  a  pass  In  the  highlands. 
The  stage  runs  N.  between  the  hills  and  the  valley  of  the  Margaree  (S.  W. 
Branch)*  "one  of  the  most  romantic  and  best  stocked  salmon-rivers  in  the 
world."  Beyond  the  settlement  of  Broad  Cove  Marsh,  a  road  runs  out  to 
the  Gulf  abreast  of  Sea^  Wolf  Jaland,  on  whose  cliffs  is  a  fixed  light,  300  ft. 
8 


mi 


1 70      Route  42. 


MARGAREE. 


i 


high.  Marfjnree  Forl:s  is  a  rural  village  at  the  junction  of  the  N.  E.  and 
S.  W.  Branches  of  the  famous  Margaree  River,  where  salmon  abounc? 
from  June  15  until  July  15,  and  rare  sea-trout  tishing  is  found. 

•'  In  Cape  Breton  the  beautiful  Miir<!;an'«'  is  one  of  the  nio.«t  noted  streams  for  sea- 
trout,  and  its  clear  water  and  picturL-stjue  s<  enery,  windinfj  through  intervale  mead- 
ows dotted  with  groups  of  witeh-elnu  and  backed  l)y  wooded  hills  over  a  thousand 
feet  in  height,  entitle  it  to  pre-eminence  amongst  the  rivers  of  the  Gulf" 

There  are  several  small  hamlets  in  this  region,  with  a  total  population 
of  over  4,000.  Margaree  Harbor  (Crou-dis  House;  GilUs  lUmse^,  near 
the  Chimney-Corner  coal-mines,  48  M.  from  l*ort  Hood,  has  a  small  fleet 
of  fishing-vessels.  A  shore-road  runs  N.  K.  12  M.  to  Cheticamp,  a  district 
containing  about  2,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  the  old  Acadian 
race.  It  is  a  fishing  station  of  Robin  &  Co.,  an  ancient  and  powerful 
commercial  house  on  the  Isle  of  Jersey;  and  was  founded  by  tliem  in  1784, 
and  settled  by  Acadian  refugees  from  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  harbor 
is  suitable  for  small  vessels,  and  is  formed  by  Cheticamp  Island,  sheltering 
the  mouth  of  the  Cheticamp  River.  There  is  a  powerful  revolving  white 
light  on  the  S.  point  of  tlie  island,  150  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  20  M. 
at  sea. 

N.  E.  and  E  of  Cheticamp  extends  the  great  highland-wilderness  of 
the  N.  part  of  Cape  Breton  (see  page  163),  an  \niexplored  and  trackless 
land  of  forests  and  mountains.  Tliere  are  no  roads  above  Clieticamp,  and 
the  most  northerly  point  of  the  Province,  C(ipe  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
159),  is  30  M.  N.  E.  by  E.  ^  E.  from  the  N.  part  of  Cheticamp  Island. 


New  I 

rill 

It  spn 
Ant 

Thy' 

And 
To  I 

Cap<; 
In 
The  8| 

Th€ 
Wasil 
But  til 

To! 

New 

Thyl 
The  wl 

Andl 
Thy  sll 
AndfcT 

The 


The  terrible  storm  which  swept  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  August,  1873,  and 
wrecked  hundreds  of  vessel.^,  attained  its  greatest  force  around  the  island  of  Cape 
Breton  and  in  the  narrow  seas  to  the  W  ,  towards  Princ<!  Edward's  Island  and  the 
Magdalen  Island.  It  lasted  only  a  few  hours,  but  was  fearfully  destructive  in  its 
effects,  and  strewed  all  these  coasts  with  drowned  mariners  The  following  spirited 
poem  is  inserted  here,  by  the  kind  permission  of  its  author,  Mr.  Edmund  C.  Sted- 


man. 


The  Lord's-Day  Gale. 


In  Gloucester  port  lie  fishing  crnft,— 
More  staunch  and  trim  were  never  seen  : 

They  are  sharp  before  nnd  sheer  abnft. 
And  true  their  lines  the  masts  between. 

Alone  the  wharves  of  Gloucester  Town 

Their  fares  are  lijjhtly  landed  down. 
And  the  laden  flnkes  to  sunward  lean. 

Well  know  the  men  each  cruising-pround. 
And  where  the  cod  and  mackerel  be  : 

Old  Eastern  Point  the  schooners  round 
And  leave  Cape  Ann  on  the  larboard  lee  : 

Sound  are  the  planks,  the  hearts  are  bold. 

That  brave  December  8  surijes  cold 
On  George's  shoals  in  the  outer  sea. 

And  some  must  sail  to  the  banks  far  m>rth 
And  set  their  trawls  for  the  hungry  cod,- 

In  the  ghostly  ioa  creep  bf  ck  and  forth 
By  shro'ided  poths  no  foot  hath  trod  ; 

ITiion  the  crews  the  ice-winds  blow. 

The  bitter  sleet,  the  frozen  snow,  — 
Their  lives  are  in  the  band  of  God ! 


New  England  :  New  England  ! 

Needs  sail  they  nnist,  so  brave  and  Jioor, 
Or  June  he  warm  or  Wict-r  storm. 

Lest  a  wolf  gnaw  through  the  cottage-door  J 
Three  weeks  at  home,  three  long  months  gone, 
While  the  patient  good-wives  sleep  alone. 

And  wake  to  hear  the  breakers  roar. 

The  Grand  Bank  gathers  in  its  dead,  — 
The  deep  seo-sand  is  their  winding-sheet ; 

Who  does  not  (leorge  s  billows  dread 
That  dash  togetlier  the  drifting  fleet  ? 

Who  does  not  long  to  hear,  in  May, 

The  pleasant  wash  of  Saint  Lawrence  Boy, 
The  fairest  ground  where  tishermen  meet  ? 

There  the  west  wave  holds  the  red  sunlight 
Till  the  bells  at  home  are  rung  for  nine  : 

Short,  short  the  wutch,  and  calm  the  night ; 
The  fiery  northern  streamers  shine  ; 

The  eastern  sky  anon  is  gold. 

And  winds  from  piny  forests  old. 
Scatter  the  white  mists  ott'the  brine. 


THE  LORD'S-DAY  GALE.         Jluuie  4^.       171 


^door I 
Is  gon^ 


leet ; 


Inv, 

Vet? 


?ht 


New  Enelnnd  !  New  Enjrland  ! 

Thou  hivest  wi-ll  tliine  oi-eun  mnin  I 
It  sprcadt'th  its  locks  union?  tliy  rot-ks, 

And  long  n^ainHt  thy  lieurt  huth  hiin  ; 
Thy  ships  upon  its  bosotn  ride 
And  tVel  the  hciivinx  of  its  tide  : 

To  thee  its  secret  speech  is  i  lain. 

Cape  Breton  and  Edward  Isle  between, 

In  strait  and  j?nlf  the  schooners  lay  : 
The  sea  was  all  iit  peace,  I  ween. 

The  night  hcfore  tluit  August  day  ; 
Was  never  a  (Jlouccster  skipj^ier  there, 
But  thought  erelong,  with  a  nglit  good  fare. 

To  sail  lor  home  from  Saint  Lawrence  Bay. 

New  England  I  New  England  ! 

Thy  giant's  love  was  turned  to  hate  I 
The  winds  control  his  fickle  soul. 

And  in  his  wraih  ho  hath  no  mate. 
Thy  shores  his  angry  scourges  tear. 
And  for  thy  chlKIreh  in  his  care 

The  sudden  tempests  lie  in  wait. 

The  East  Wind  gat"    red  nil  unknown,  — 

A  thick  sea  cloud  ins  course  before  ; 
He  left  by  night  the  frozen  zone 

And  smote  the  cliffs  of  l^abrador  ; 
He  Uished  the  coasts  on  either  liantl. 
And  betwixt  the  Cape  and  Newfoundland 

Into  tlie  Bay  his  armies  pour. 

He  caught  our  helpless  cruisers  there 

As  a  gray  wolf  harries  the  huddling  fold  ; 
A  sleet  -  li  darkness  -  filled  the  air, 

A  shuddering  wa^e  beff)re  it  rolled  : 
That  Lord  s-Day  ujorn  it  was  a  breeze,— 
At  noon,  a  blast  that  shook  the  seas,  — 

At  night  —  a  wind  of  Death  took  hold  ! 

It  leaped  across  the  Breton  bar, 

A  death-wind  from  tlie  stormy  East ! 
It  scarred  the  land,  and  wnirled  afar 

The  sheltering  thatch  of  man  and  beast ; 
It  mingled  rick  and  roof  and  tree. 
And  like  a  besom  swept  the  sea. 

And  churned  the  wateis  into  yeast 

From  Saint  Pauls  Light  to  Edwards  Isle 

A  thousand  craft  it  smote  iimain  ; 
And  some  ag'iinstitsrovo  the  while. 

And  more  to  mnko  a  port  were  fain  : 
The  mackerel-gulls  flew  screaming  past, 
And  the  stick  that  bent  to  the  noonday  blast 

Was  split  by  the  sundown  hurricane. 

"  The  island  booamc  aa  Gaelic  as  the  most  G.aelic  part  of  Scotland.  It  continues 
po  to  this  (lay.  What  of  Cape  Bn't">n  i-i  not  Highland  Scottish  is  Acadian  French 
Th«*  old  allies  of  the  Middle  Ages  live  together  in  niity  on  this  fair  outpost  of  the 
now  world.  The  Highland  inimiRrants  had  a  hard  time  of  it  for  many  a  long  day. 
They  were  poor,  unskilled  in  agriculture,  and  utterly  ignorant  of  woodcraft  or 
forest  life.  But  their  vmrnle  was  sup<'rh  Like  men  they  set  the  stout  heart  to 
the  stae  brae.  Hardy,  pitient,  frugal.  God-fearing,  they  enduri'd  hardships  th  t 
would  have  killed  ordinary  settlers.  Gradnallv  and  painfVillv  thoy  learned  to  wield 
the  axe,  and  to  hold  the  plough  instead  of  the  cium.sy  lioo  and  spade  of  their  native 
isles.  The  lakes  and  streams,  tlie  Bnis  d"Or  and  the  rough  Atlantic,  gave  geforous 
supplies  of  food.  'I  heir  log-huts  in  the  green  woods  wer«^  their  own  And  their 
children  have  exchanged  the  primitive  shanty  for  comfortable  frame  houses,  and 
the  few  sheep  their  fathers  owned  for  fat  flocks  and  hardy  horses  that  they  rear  for 
the  Sydney  an<l  Newfoundland  markets.  Take  up  your  summer  quarters  on  the 
Gut  of  Oansn,  or  at  St.  Peter's,  Baddeck,  Whycocomagh,  Sydney,  Louisbourg,  Mar- 
garee,  or  any  other  local  centre,  and  though  yon  may  not  get  '  ail  the  comforts  of 
the  Sautmarket,'  you  will  get  what  is  better.  The  more  Gaelic  you  can  speak  the 
lass  money  you  need  to  have  iu  your  purse."    (Rev.  Qeor«£  M.  Qkant.) 


O,  what  can  live  on  the  open  sea. 
Or  mo«>red  in  port  the  gale  outride? 

The  very  craft  that  at  anchor  be 
Are  dragjjed  along  by  the  swollen  tide  I 

The  great  stornt-wavc'came  rolling  west. 

And  tossed  the  vessels  on  its  cre.'»t  : 
The  ancient  tiounds  its  might  defied  1 

The  ebb  to  cheek  it  had  no  |)ower  ; 

The  surf  ran  up  to  an  untold  height ; 
It  n)se,  nor  yielded,  hour  by  hour, 

A  night  ami  day,  a  day  and  night ; 
P'ar  up  the  seething  shores  it  cast 
The  wreck  of  hull  and  spar  and  mast. 

The  strangled  crews,  —  u  wof ul  sight ! 

There  were  twenty  and  more  of  Breton  sail 

Fast  anchored  on  one  mooring-ground  ; 
Each  lay  within  his  neighbor  s  had. 
When  the  thick  of  the  tempest  closed  them 
round : 
All  sank  at  once  in  the  gaping  sea,  — 
Somewhere  on  the  shoals  their  corses  be, 
Tne   foundered   hulks,   and   the  seamen 
drowned. 

On  reef  and  bar  our  schooners  drove 
Before  the  wind,  before  the  swell ; 

By  the  steep  sand-cliffs  their  ribs  were  stove,  — 
liOng,  long  their  crews  the  tale  shall  tell  1 

Of  the  (ilouce-ster  fleet  are  wrecks  thre«score; 

Of  the  Province  sail  two  hundred  more 
Were  stranded  in  that  tempest  fell. 

The  bedtime  bells  in  Gloucester  Town 
That  Sabbath  night  rang  soft  and  clear; 

The  sailors'  childrtn  laid  them  down,— 
Dear  l,ord!  their  sweet  prayers  couldst  thou 
hear  'i 

'T  Is  said  that  gently  blew  the  winds  ; 

The  good-wives,  through  the  seaward  blinds, 
Looked  down  the  bay  and  had  no  fear. 

New  England  !   Now  England  I 

Thy  ports  their  dauntless  seamen  mourn  ; 
The  twin  capes  yearn  for  their  return 

Who  never  shall  be  thither  twrne  ; 
Their  orphans  whisper  as  they  meet ; 
The  homes  are  dark  in  many  a  street. 

And  women  move  in  weeds  forlorn. 

And  wilt  thou  fail,  and  dost  thou  fear  ? 

Ah,  no  :  though  widows  cheeks  are  pale. 
The  lads  8l>all  s;iy  :  "  Another  year. 

And  we  shall  be  of  age  to  sail !  " 
And  the  mothers'  hearts  shall  fill  with  pride, 
Though  tears  drop  fast  for  them  who  died 

When  the  fleet  was  wrecked  in  the  Lord'»* 
Day  gale. 


PRINCE  EDWARD    ISLAND. 


Prince  Kdwaru  Imland  '  aHtod  In  the  Houtlicrn  portion  of  the 
Gulf  of  {St.  Ii!»wrono(»,  nml  is  .,,,»!iu1<m1  on  thu  S.  bv  tlio  Northumberland 
Strait.  It  is  30  M.  from  Capo  Hroton  Island,  15  M.  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
9  M.  from  Now  Brunswick,  and  is  snrroundotl  by  deep  and  navigable 
waters.  The  extreme  length  Is  130  M.;  the  extreme  breadth,  34  M  ;  and 
the  area  is  2,133  scjuare  miles.  The  surface  is  low  or  gently  undulating, 
with  small  hills  in  the  central  parts,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  derived  from 
red  sandstone,  and  is  very  fertile.  The  air  is  balmy  and  l)racing,  less 
foggy  than  the  adjacent  shores,  and  milder  than  that  of  New  Brunswick. 
The  most  abuntlant  trees  are  the  evergreens,  iiesides  which  the  oak  and 
maple  are  found.  The  shores  are  deeply  indented  by  harbors,  of  which 
those  toward  the  (lulf  ;ue obstructed  bv  sand,  but  those  on  the  S.  are  com- 
modious  and  accessible. 

The  island  is  divided  into  3  eotmties,  including  13  districts,  or  67  town- 
ships and  3  royalties.  It  has  ll)9,08S  inhabitants,  of  whom  47,1 15  are  Cath- 
olics, 33,835  are  Presbyterians,  13,485  Methodists,  and  7,205  Kpiscopaliuns. 
The  majority  of  the  people  are  of  Scottish  mi^in,  and  there  are  300 
Micniac  Indians.  The  local  government  is  conducted  by  the  Executive 
Council  (9  members)  and  the  House  of  Asseujbly  (30  members),  and  the 
political  parties  which  form  about  the  petty  (juestions  of  the  island  dis- 
play a  partisan  acrimony  and  employ  a  caustic  journalism  such  as  are 
not  seen  even  in  the  United  States.  The  Province  is  provided  with  gov- 
ernor and  cabmet,  supreme  and  vice-admiralty  courts,  and  a  public 
domain,  on  the  same  plan  as  those  of  the  great  Provinces  of  Quebec  and 
Ontario.  The  land  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  nearly  all  the 
population  is  rural.  Manufactories  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist,  but  the 
fisheries  are  carried  on  to  some  extent,  and  shipbuilding  receives  con- 
siderable attention.  The  roads  are  good  in  dry  weather,  and  lead  through 
quiet  rural  scenery,  broken  every  few  miles  by  the  blue  expanses  of  the 
broad  bays  and  salt-water  lagoons.  The  chief  exports  consist  of  oats, 
barley,  hay,  potatoes,  tish,  live-stock,  and  eggs. 

It  has  been  claimed  that  Prince  Edward  Island  was  discovered  bv 
Cabot,  ia  1497,  but  there  is  no  certainty  on  this  subject.  It  was  visited 
by  Champlain  on  St.  John's  Day,  1008,  and  received  from  him  the  name 
of  VIsle  St.  Jean.    The  whole  country  was  then  covered  with  stately  for- 


PK1N^!E   EOWAUU   ISLAND. 


17a 


eHtn,  nbounding  in  k'>"><^i  <""'  ^^i^**  inliiiliittMl  by  n  cliui  of  Ihe  Mirinac 
IndiHtiM,  who  cnllod  it  A/m/zf/w/^  ('*  Att('lif)n'(|  on  tho  Wavo").  It  was 
iiicludod  ill  tlio  broad  doiniiiii  of  Arndiii,  ovi^r  which  I'liinco  niid  Kiiji^hind 
wjig«M|  Kiu'.h  <IisuHtn»iH  wiir.H,  but  was  not  scttird  (or  over  two  <r(;iitiiriefl 
after  (Fallot's  voyn(?(\  In  HUVi  this  and  fh(<  Mii^'hilcii  IsiandH  were  (granted 
to  M.  Doublet,  a  eiiptiiin  in  tlie  Krench  navy,  who  ertictcd  mimrner  fi^binj^- 
statioiiH  here,  but  abandoni'd  them  e.very  aiitninn.  After  Kn;.;land  ha<l 
wroHted  Nova  Scotia  front  Krtince,  a  U'W  AcadiiuiH  croHHed  over  to  L'IhIc 
St.  Jean  and  became  itn  first  settlers.  In  172H  there  were  60  Freiadi  fain- 
Ihes  hero;  in  174r>  there  wen!  about  800  inhaldtantH;  and  during  her  death- 
Htmj^glcH  with  the  Anjrlo-American  armies,  tho  l'roviiic(!of  Qiiebeo  drew 
Iarf?e  HupjiliivH  of  f^riiin  and  cattle  from  the>e  nliorcs.  The  capital  was  at 
Portia  Joie  (near  Charlottetown),  where  thero  was  a  batt(!ry  an<l  garrison, 
dependent  on  tho  military  coininandant  of  Loni.slKdirg.  It  I*  claimed  by 
Halibiirton  that  the  iflland  wan  captured  by  tho  NciW-KnglanderH  in  1746, 
but  it  Is  known  only  thnt  (leti.  I'epperell  ordered  400  of  his  soldiers  to  sail 
from  Louisbourg  and  o(M'npy  L'NIe  St.  .lean.  It  does  not  appear  whether 
or  not  this  was  done.  Aft(T  tlio  expnlsion  of  the  Acadians  from  Nova 
Scotia,  many  of  them  fl(Ml  to  this  island,  which  contained  4,100  inhab- 
itants in  1758.  In  that  year  Lord  Rollo  took  possession  of  it,  according  to 
the  capitulation  of  Lonisbourg,  with  a  nmall  military  force. 

In  1763  the  island  was  cedtid  to  (Jreat  Uritain  by  the  Treaty  of  Fon- 
ta'nebloan,  and  became  a  part  of  tho  I'rov  nee  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  was 
surveyed  in  17G4-6,  and  was  granted  to  about  100  Knglish  and  Scottish 
gentlemen,  who  were  to  pay  qnitrents  and  to  setHo  their  lands  with  1  per- 
son to  every  200  acres,  within  10  y(N'irs,  tho  colonists  to  be  Protestants 
from  the  continent  of  Europe.  When  tho  10  years  had  elapsed,  many  of 
the  estates  were  forfeited  or  sold  to  other  parties,  and  only  19  of  the  67 
townships  had  any  settlers.  In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  separate  Prov- 
ince, and  In  1773  the  first  House  of  Assembly  met.  In  1775  the  Americans 
captured  the  capital,  and  in  1778  four  Canadian  companies  were  stationed 
there.  In  1780  the  Province  was  called  New  Ireland,  but  the  King  vetoed 
this  name,  and  in  1800  it  was  entitled  Prince  Edward  Island,  In  honor  of 
His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  Kent,  then  Commander  of  the 
Forces  in  British  North  America  (afterwards  father  of  Queen  Victoria).  In 
1803  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  sent  over  800  Highlanders,  and  other  proprietors  set- 
tled colonies  on  their  domains.  The  complicated  questions  arising  from  tho 
old  proprietary  estates  have  engrossed  most  of  the  legislation  of  the  isl- 
and for  70  years,  and  have  been  settled  by  the  purchase  of  the  lands  by 
tlie  government  Prince  Edward  Island  long  refused  to  enter  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  but  yielded  at  last  on  very  favorable  terms,  one  of  the  condi- 
tions being  that  the  Confederacy  should  build  a  railway  throughout  the 
Province. 


4!Ai 


in 


174      Houte  43. 


CAPE  TBAVEBSE. 


,  ! 


43.   Point  dn  Ghene  to  Snmmerside  and  Gharlottetown.  — 

The  Northumberland  Strait. 

St.  John  to  Point  (In  Chene,  see  liuutes  14  and  16. 

Steamers  leave  Point  du  Chune  every  day  during  the  season  of  naviga- 
tiiin,  on  arrival  of  the  morning  train  from  St.  Joiin.  The  fare  to  Summer- 
hide  is  $1.50;  and  from  Summerside  to  Charlottetown,  $1.50. 

The  distance  from  Shediac  to  Summerside  is  35  M.  Soon  after  leaving 
the  wharf  at  Point  du  ChSne  the  steamer  passes  out  through  Shediac  Bay, 
and  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait.  The  course  is  a  little  N.  of  E.,  and 
the  first  point  of  the  island  to  come  in  o  sight  is  Cape  Egmont,  with  its 
lines  of  low  sandstone  cliff's.  The  traveller  now  sees  the  significance 
of  the  ancient  Indian  name  of  this  sea-girt  land,  Epayguit^  signifying 
"Anchored  on  the  Wave." 

After  passing  Cape  Kgmont  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  enters  Bedeque,  or 
Halifax,  Bay,  and  runs  in  toward  the  low  shores  on  the  N.  E.  After  pass- 
ing Indian  Point  and  Island  it  enters  the  harbor  of  Summerside,  with  the 
estuary  of  the  Dunk  Kiver  on  the  r. 

Summerside,  see  page  179. 

Upon  leaving  Summerside  the  steamer  passes  Indian  Point  on  the  1., 
and,  after  running  by  Salutation  Point,  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
The  course  is  nearl}'  S.  E.  9  M.  from  Salutation  Point  is  Cape  Traverse, 
and  on  the  S.  shore  is  Cape  Tormentine.  At  this,  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  strait,  the  mails  are  carried  across  by  ice-boats  in  winter,  and  passen- 
gers are  transported  by  the  same  perilous  route.  A  submarine  cable  un- 
derlies the  strait  at  this  point.  It  is  20  M.  from  Cape  Traverse  to  St. 
Peter's  Island,  and  along  the  island  shores  are  the  villages  of  Tryon,  Cra- 
paud,  De  Sable,  and  Bonshaw.  On  passing  St.  Peter's  Island,  the  steamer 
enters  Hillsborough  Bay  and  runs  N.,  with  Orwell  and  Pownal  Bays  open- 
ing on  the  E. 

'*  Charlottetown  Harbor,  at  its  entrance  between  the  cliffs  of  Blockhouse 
and  Sea-Trout  Point,  is  450  fathoms  wide,  and,  in  sailing  in,  York  River 
running  northward,  the  Hillsborough  River  eastwardly,  and  the  Elliot  to  the 
westward,  surround  the  visitor  with  beautiful  effects,  and  as  he  glides 
smoothly  over  their  confluence,  or  what  is  called  the  Three  Tides,  he  will 
feel,  perhaps,  that  he  has  seen  for  the  first  fme,  should  a  setting  sun  gild 
the  horizon,  a  combination  of  color  and  effect  which  no  artist  could  ade- 
quately represent." 

Charlottetown,  see  page  176. 

Of  late  years  the  steamboats  have  run  from  Point  du  Chene  to  Summer- 
side,  and  from  Fictou  to  Charlottetown,  but  not  between  Summerside  and 
Charlottetown. 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


Route  44'     1 75 


44.   Pioton  to  Prince  Idward  Island. 

'  To  Chnvlottttown. 

The  steamships  h-ave  Pictou  for  Charlottetown  daily  (durinp  the  fleafion 
of  iiavi|^ation),  on  arrival  of  the  morning  train  from  Halifax.  Fare,  $2.  The 
(ii-tance  is  a  little  over  50  M. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  safe  and  pleasant  harl)or  of  IMctou,  the  steamer 
approaches  Pictou  hiamly  a  hilly  and  well-wooded  land  4  M.  long,  with  a 
lighthouse  and  some  farms.  On  the  VV.  is  (.'aribou  Island,  consisting  of 
several  islets  united  by  sand-bars,  and  guarded  by  a  lighthouse.  There  are 
j)leasant  views  of  the  receding  h'ghhinds  of  Nova  Scotia;  and  the  vessel 
moves  easily  through  the  quiet  waters  of  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
"  Prince  Edward  Island,  as  we  approached  it,  had  a  pleasing  aspect,  and 
none  of  that  remote  friendlessness  wtich  its  appearance  on  the  map  con- 
veys to  one;  a  warm  and  sandy  l^ind,  in  a  genial  climate,  without  fogs, 
we  are  informed." 

After  passing  (on  the  r.)  the  long  low  Point  Prim,  the  steamer  sweeps 
around  to  the  N.  into  Hillsborough  Bay,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Char- 
lottetown. 


Pictou  to  Georgetoicn. 

Steamships  leave  Pictou  for  Georgetown  every  Mondav ;  leaving  George- 
town for  Pictou  Wednesday's.  Fare  from  port  to  port,  $2.  The  distance  is 
nearly  70  M.    In  winter  the  Stanley  runs  between  i'ictou  and  Georgetown- 

The  chief  incidents  of  this  short  voyage  are  the  views  of  Pictou  Island; 
the  approach  to  Cape  Bear,  the  S.  E.  point  of  P.  E.  Island,  backed  by 
hills  200  ft.  high;  and  the  ascent  of  the  noble  sheet  of  Cardigan  Bay,  be- 
tween Boughton  and  Panmure  Islands. 

Georgetown,  see  page  181. 


45.    Charlottetown. 

Arrival.  — The  steamer  passes  tetween  St.  Peter's  Island  (1.)  and  Qovemor'g 
Island  (r.)and  asrends  Hillsborough  Bay  for  about  6  M  It  then  passes  between 
Blockhouse  Point  (on  the  1.,  with  a  lig.it.iouso)  and  Sea-Trout  Point,  and  enters  the 
harbor  of  Charlottetown,  where  there  itre  7-l0  fathoms  of  water.  Powerful  cur- 
r-r^vU  !tre  formed  here  by  the  tides  of  the  HillisborotiKh.  York,  and  Elliot  Rivers  (or 
East,  North,  and  West  Rivers),  which  empty  into  this  basin. 

Hotels*  —  Osborne  House ;  Davies  Uouse ;  Uockliu. 

Stoiiaishii)!'.  —  I'he  Worcester  or  the  ( 'arroli  leaves  Utiarlottetown  every 
Thursday  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  Hiilifax,  and  Boston.  Fares:  Charlottetown  to 
Boston,  $7.50  ;  Halifax  to  Boston,  $7. 


176       Route  45. 


OHARLOTTETOWN. 


V  ! 


II   1 


Steamboats  run  between  (Iharlottetown,  Point,  du  Chftne,  and  Pictou  (nee  Routes 
48  and  44).  Another  buur  plies  ab«)Ut  the  lia.v  and  up  tlie  llillnboroui^h  River,  mak- 
ing aiso  trips  to  Or.ipaiiil  aod  Orwell.  Slie  runs  up  the  Hillsborough  lUver  to 
Mount  Stewart  on  Monday,  Tue^lay,  Krid.'i.v,  and  Saturday;  to  Crapaud  on 
Wednesday  ;  and  to  ()rw«'ll  on  Tuesday,  U'cdn.-sday,  and  Thursday.  Smaller  .-teani- 
boat(«  ply  between  ("harlottetown  and  Orwell,  West  Kiver,  lloclty  Point,  Veruuu- 
BlT«r  bridge,  and  Murray's  Harbor;  and  to  Southport  every  half  hour. 

CnAJ{LOTTi:Tt)WN,  tlio  cji|)  tnl  of  I'riiico  IMwiinl  Island,  is  situjitod  on 
gently  rising  ground  on  tlio  N.  sido  of  Iho  Ilillsborouglj  Hivcr,  nnd  fronts 
on  a  good  harbor.  It  has  aUont  11,000  inluibitants,  with  2  daily  and  4 
weekly  iicwspaiH-rs,  4  banks,  and  10  oliurchos.  The  plan  of  the  eity  is 
very  regular,  and  consists  of  (»  streets,  each  100  ft.  wide,  running  Iv  and 
W.,  intersecting  0  streets  running  from  N.  to  S.     There  are  4  squares. 

The  Provincial  Building  is  the  llnest  structure  in  the  city.  It  stands 
on  Queen's  Siiuare.  at  the  head  of  Great  George  St.,  and  is  built  of  Nova- 
Scotia  freestone  (at  a  cost  of  S  J  0,000).  The  halls  of  the  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  Hou>e  of  Assemblv  arc  on  the  second  floor,  and  are  handsomclv 
furnished  and  julorned  with  jjortraits  of  the  statesmen  of  Prince  Edward 
Island.  On  the  same  floor  is  the  Colonud  Librnry^  containing  a  good  col- 
lection of  books  relating  to  the  history,  laws,  and  physical  characteristics 
of  Canada  and  the  British  Umpire.  A  j)leasant  view  of  the  city  and  the 
rivers  may  bo  obtained  from  the  cupola  of  the  building.  The  Post  OJice 
is  also  on  Queen's  Square,  and  is  a  new  and  handsome  stone  building. 
Just  beyond  is  the  Market  lions?,  a  great  wooden  structure  covered  with 
shingles.  The  principal  shops  of  Charlottetown  are  about  Queen's  Square, 
and  offer  but  little  to  be  desired.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Dunstan  is  a  spacious  wooden  edifice  on  Great  George  St.,  near  the  Square. 

The  cxtens  ve  Convent  of  Notre  Dame  is  on  Hillsborough  Square,  and 
occupies  a  modern  brick  building  The  Prince  of  Wales  College  and  the 
Normal  School  are  on  Weymouth  St.,  in  this  vicinity. 

The  old  barracks  and  drill-shed  are  W.  of  Queen's  Square,  between 
Pownal  and  Sydney  Sts.,  and  are  fronted  by  a  parade-ground.  The  Gov- 
emment  House  is  on  a  point  of  land  W.  of  the  city,  and  overlooks  the 
harbor. 

In  1748  the  government  of  the  inland  was  vested  In  civil  nnd  military  offlcers, 
vhos^e  l•e^ideuce  was  estaVdished  ut  the  W.  eutmnce  to  the  harbor  of  Port  la  Jole 
(Charlottetown),  where  they  had  a  battery  and  a  ^n.«ll  garrison.  It  Is  said  that  the 
first  French  sailors  who  entertd  the  inner  harbor  \.ere  so  pleased  with  its  tranquil 
teauty  that  they  uau.ed  it  Port  la  Joie.  There  were  no  houses  on  the  site  of  the 
city  in  1752.  The  harbor  was  held  by  three  British  fi  igates  in  1746,  but  wa.s  ravaged 
i\  200  Mieuiacs  under  the  French  Ensign  Montesson.  All  the  English  found  on  the 
eliore  were  captured,  but  the  Indians  refused  to  attack  the  war-vessels. 

In  17G8  Morris  and  Deschanips  arrived  liere  with  a  small  colony,  and  erected  huts. 
They  laid  out  the  streets  of  Charlottetown,  whidi  was  soon  established  as  the  tapi- 
tal  of  the  island.  In  1775  it  was  ( aptured  t)y  two  American  war-vessels,  which  liad 
b«'en  cruising  in  the  Gulf  to  carry  otf  the  Quebec  s'^^oreshlps.  The  sailors  plundered 
the  town,  and  led  away  several  local  dignitaries  a&  prisoners,  but  Washington  lib- 
erated the  captives,  and  reprimanded  the  predatory  cruisers. 

Charlottetown  "  has  the  appearance  of  a  place  from  which  something  has  de- 
parted; a  wooden  town,  with  wide  and  vacant  streets,  and  the  air  of  waiting  fur 


ENVIRONS  OF  CHARLOTTETOWN.     Route  46.       177 

Romethtng.  ....  That  the  pmductiTe  iHland,  with  itn  nyntr-m  nf  froe  nchoolA,  \n  nhout 
to  enter  upon  a  pronperouR  rart'cr,  and  that  (Miarl()tt4;t()wn  Ih  hoop  to  bsTonie  n  place 
of  great  activity,  no  on«  who  convcrscH  with  t\w  natives*  ran  <louht,  and  I  thinic 
that  even  now  no  travcilor  will  regret  Rpcnrling  an  hour  or  two  thore  ;  hut  it  in 
necessary  to  say  that  the  rosy  indurenicnts  for  tourists  to  spend  tlie  summer  there 
exist  only  in  tliu  guide-books/' 


Knrivovs  of  Chnrlnttitnirn. 

The  Wcsleyan  Colh'f/e  is  on  an  crniiHincc.  l)!i<',k  (>f  the  fMty,  and  overlo  ks 
the  harbor  and  tho  rivers.  It  has  10  instructors  and  about  300  studonts. 
St.  Duustan's  Col/cf/e  is  a  Catholic,  institution,  which  occupies  tlie  crest 
of  a  hill  1  M.  from  the  city,  and  has  4  professors.  There  are  several  {)retty 
villas  in  the  vicinity  of  ('harlottetown;  and  the  roads  are  very  pood  durinj? 
dry  weather.  Some  travellers  have  jjreatly  admired  the  ni-al  scenery  of 
these  suburban  roads,  but  others  have  reported  thetn  as  tame  and  uninter- 
esting. The  same  conflict  of  opinion  exists  with  regard  to  the  scenery  of 
the  whole  Island. 

Southport  is  a  village  opposite  Charlottetovvn,  in  a  pretty  situation  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  Hillsborough  River.     It  is  rea(died  by  a  steam  ferry-boat. 

3  M.  from  this  place  is  the  eminence  called 
Tea  Ifillj  whence  a  pleasing  view  of  the  [)arish  and  the  bay  may  be  ob- 
tained. A  few  miles  be}  ond  is  the  village  of  Poirnnl,  at  the  head  of 
Pownal  Bay,  and  in  a  region  prolific  in  oats  and  potatoes. 


46.    Charlottetown  to  Sommerside  and  Tignifih.  — The 
Western  Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 

This  region  is  traversed  by  the  Prince  Kdward  Island  Railway,  a  narrow-gaag» 
road  built  by  the  Canadian  government.     This  line  was  opened  late  in  1874. 

Express  trains  run  from  Charlottetown  to  buuuufrsidc  in  2j|;  hours;  to  Tignish 
in  6  hours. 

StatioiiH.  —Charlottetown  to  Rt  Dunstan's.  2  :  Cemcte'v.  4  ;  Royalty  .Junction, 
6:  Winsloe,  6\ ;  Milton,  10;  Colville,  13V:  N.  Wiltshire,  17;  Hunter  River,  21; 
Frederioton.  25' :  Elliotts,  27)^;  Brendalbane,  20^  :  County  Lane,  .32  ;  Freetown,  35V  ; 
Blueshank,  39;  KonsinRton,  41 ;  New  Annan,  42 ;  Summerside,  4f>;  Miscouche, 
64;  Wellinajton.  01;  Richmond,  m\\  Northam,68;  Port  Hill,  71;  Ellerslie,  72k; 
Conway,  77:  Portage,  Rf> ;  Brae  K<>  t  O'Le-irv.  80:  Blnomfl<'ld,  95;  Klmsdale,  100; 
Alberton,  104  ;  Montrose,  108  :  De  Hlois,  112^  ;  TiirnJ-h,  117. 

After  leaving  the  comtnodious  station-building,  in  the  E.  part  of  Char- 
lottetown, the  train  sweejts  around  the  city,  turning  to  the  N.  from  the 
bank  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  The  suburban  villas  are  soon  passed,  and 
the  line  traverses  a  level  country  to  Royalty  .function,  ^yhere  the  tracks 
to  Souris  and  Georgetown  (see  Houte  47)  diverge  to  the  N.  E.  The  train 
now  enters  the  main  line,  and  runs  VV.  through  a  fertile  farming  country, 
—  "a  sort  of  Arcadia,  in  which  Shenstono  would  have  delighted."  The 
hamlets  are  small  and  the  dwellings  are  very  |)lain,  but  it  is  expected  that 
the  stations  of  the  new  ra  hvay  wdl  become  the  nuclei  of  future  villages. 
The  train  soon  crosses  the  head-waters  of  the  York  River,  and  reaches  N. 
Wiltshire,  beyond  which  is  a  line  of  low  hills,  extending  across  the  island. 
4  M.  beyond  this  point  is  the  station  of  Hunter  Rirer,  whence  a  much- 


178      Route  46, 


RUSTICO. 


;1 


travelled  road  leads  to  the  N.  to  New  Glasgow  and  Rustic©,  locally  famous 
for  pleasant  marine  scerTy. 

Bustioo  is  a  qu?et  inarine  settlement,  with  two  churches  and  a  bank, 
and  about  300  inhabitants.  It  is  near  Grand  Rustico  Harbor,  and  is  one 
of  the  chief  fishing  stations  of  the  N.  shore.  The  original  settlers  were 
Acadians  (in  the  year  1710),  many  of  whose  descendants  remain  in  the 
township,  and  are  peaceful  and  unprogressive  citizens.  The  Seaside  Hotel 
(40  guests)  is  a  small  summer  hotel  near  the  sand-hills  of  the  beach;  and 
the  facilities  for  boating,  bathing,  fishing',  and  gunning  are  said  to  be  ex- 
cellent. The  great  fleets  of  the  Gulf  fishermen  are  sometimes  seen  off 
these  shores.  There  is  a  pleasant  drive  up  the  Hunter  River  to  New  Glas- 
gow (Rackem's  inn),  which  was  settled  by  men  of  Glasgow,  under  Alex- 
ander Cormack,  the  Newfoundland  explorer,  in  1829.  The  Hunter  River 
affords  good  trotting.  Grand  Rustico  Harbor  is  rendered  unsafe  by  shift- 
ing bars  of  sauv  On  the  coast  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  hamlets  of  N.  Rus- 
tico and  Cavendisn.  ^ 

From  County-Line  Junction  diverges  the  Cape-Traverse  Brar.ch  Railway 
(one  train  daily). 

Kensington  station  is  about  41  M.  from  Charlottetown,  and  is  near  the  petty 
hamlet  of  the  sjme  name.  To  the  N.  E.  is  Grei.ville  Harbor,  with  the  estu- 
aries of  three  ri/ers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Stanley.  There  are  several 
maritime  hamlets  on  these  shores,  and  on  the  W.  is  Neio  London,  a  neat 
Scottish  settlement  with  two  churches.  A  road  also  leads  N.  W.  from 
Kensington  to  Pnncetown,  a  village  of  4Q0  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
peninsula  between  Richmond  Bay,  March  Water,  and  the  Darnley  Basin. 
This  town  was  laid  out  (in  1766)  with  broad  streets  and  squares,  and  was 
intended  for  the  metropolis  of  the  N.  coast,  but  the  expectations  of  the 
government  were  never  realized,  and  "  the  ploughshare  still  turns  up  the 
sod,  where  it  was  intended  the  busy  thoroughfare  should  be."  Malpeque 
Harbor  is  the  finest  and  safest  on  the  N.  shore  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 
A  few  miles  E.  are  the  lofty  sandstone  cliff's  of  Cape  Tryon,  near  New  Lon- 
don harbor.  Princetown  fronts  on  Richmond  Bay,  a  capacious  haven 
which  runs  in  to  the  S.  W.  for  10  M.,  and  contains  7  islands.  Travellers 
have  praised  the  beauty  of  the  road  from  Princetown  to  Port  Hill,  which 
affords  many  pleasant  views  over  the  bay. 

Beyond  Kensington  the  train  runs  S.  W.  across  the  rural  plains  of  St. 
David's  Parish,  and  passes  out  on  the  isthmus  between  Richmond  Bay  and 
Bedeque  Bay,  where  the  island  is  only  3-4  M.  wide.  9  M.  from  Kensing- 
ton it  reaches  Summerside. 

Sammerside  {Mawley  House;  Campbell's  Hotel),  on  Bedeque  Harbor, 
is  a  town  of  about  3,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches,  5  school^,  2  weelxly 
newspapers,  and  2  banks.  It  is  the  port  whence  most  of  the  products  of 
the  W.  part  of  the  island  are  sent  out,  and  has  grown  rapidly  of  late  years. 
The  chief  exports  in  1882  were  600,000  bushels  of  oats,  110,000  bushels  of 


potJ 
of  tl 
the 
smf 
Tl 
and 
fishil 
the 
and 


SUMMERSIDE. 


HouU  40.      179 


potatoes^  10,300  bushels  of  barley,  86,450  dozen  of  eggs,  and  4,337  barrels 
of  the  famous  Bedeque  oysters.  The  wharves  are  long,  in  order  to  reach 
the  deep  water  of  the  channel;  and  the  houses  of  the  town  are  mostly 
small  wooden  buildings. 

The  *  Island  Park  Hotel  is  a  summer  resort  on  an  islet  off  the  harbor, 
and  is  patronized  by  American  tourists.  There  are  accommodations  for 
fishing  and  bathing,  and  a  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  the  island  and 
the  town.  The  hotel  commands  a  pleasant  view  of  the  Bedeque  shores 
and  the  Strait  of  Northumberland  (it  has  been  closed  for  some  years). 

"This  little  seaport  i^  intended  to  be  attractive,  and  it  would  give  these  travelleni 
great  pleasure  to  describe  it  if  they  could  at  all  reuieuiljer  how  it  looks.  But  it  is  a 
place  that,  like  some  faces,  ni.'ikes  no  sort  of  iu.preswion  on  the  uuujory.  We  went 
ashore  there,  and  tried  to  take  an  interest  in  the  siiipbuiiding,  and  in  the  little 
oysters  which  the  harbor  yields ;  but  Wii«ltier  we  dil  take  an  interest  or  not  haa 
passed  out  of  memory  A  small,  unpicturcsque,  wooden  town,  in  the  languor  of  a 
provincial  summer;  why  should  we  prett^nd  an  i.itcre.-t  in  it  wnich  we  did  not  feel? 
It  did  not  disturb  our  reposttful  frame  of  u.ind,  lior  much  interfere  with  our  eigoy- 
ment  of  the  day."    (Warher'S  Batlfleck.) 

Steamboats  run  across  the  Strait  of  Northumberland  to  Point  du  ChSne, 
leaving  Sunmterside  at  8  a.  m.  daily. 

On  leaving  Summerside,  the  train  runs  out  to  the  W.,  over  a  level  region. 
To  the  N.  is  the  hamlet  of  St.  Eleanors  (Ellison's  Hotel),  a  place  of  400  in- 
habitants, situated  in  a  rich  farming  country.  It  enjoys  the  honor  of  being 
the  shire-town  of  Prince  County,  and  is  about  2^  M.  from  Summerside. 
3  M.  from  St.  Eleanors  is  the  rural  village  of  Miscouche,  inhabited  by 
French  Acadians.  WeUinf/ton  (Western  Hotel)  is  a  small  hamlet  and 
station  12  M.  beyond  Summerside,  near  the  head  of  the  Grand  River,  which 
flows  into  Richmond  Bay.  The  Acadian  settlements  about  (Jape  Egmont 
are  a  few  miles  to  the  S.  W. 

The  line  passes  on  to  Port  Hill,  a  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  on 
Richmond  Bay.  Near  this  phue  is  Lennox  Island^  wiiich  is  reserved  for 
the  Micmac  Indians,  and  is  iiihal)  ted  by  about  150  persons  of  that  tribe. 
Between  the  bay  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  George  Island,  which  is 
composed  of  trap-rock  and  amygdaloid,  and  is  regarded  as  a  curious  geo- 
logical intrusion  in  the  red  sandstone  formations  of  the  Prince-Edward 
shores.  The  train  runs  N.  W.  over  the  isthmus  between  the  Cavendish 
Inlet  and  the  Percival  and  Enmore  Rivers,  and  soon  enters  the  North 
Parish.  This  region  is  thinly  inhabited  by  French  and  British  settlers, 
and  is  one  of  the  least  prosperous  portions  of  the  island.  The  line  passes 
near  Brae,  a  settlement  of  300  Scotch  farmers,  near  the  trout-abounding 
streams  of  the  Parish  of  Halifax.  To  the  S.  W.  is  the  sequestered  marine 
hamlet  of  West  Point,  where  a  town  has  been  laid  out  and  preparations 
made  for  a  connnerce  which  does  not  come.  The  coast  trends  N.  by  E. 
6  M.  from  West  i^irit  to  Cape  Wolfe,  whence  it  runs  N.  E.  by  E.  27  M.  to 
North  Point,  in  a  long  unbroken  strand  of  red  clay  and  sandstone  cliffs. 

Alberton  {Albion  //«ujft),  one  ot  the  norti  em  termini  of  the  railway, 
is  a  proHp«ruu6  \iliu^°c  uf  bv)0   ndiabitunt.*,    witli   live  churchee  and  an 


'4 

*     1 

'^»i-f 

m 

Ml 


180     RouU  47. 


TIGNISH. 


American  consular  agency.  It  is  situated  on  Gascnmpec  ^  harbor,  and  is 
engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries.  The  American  fishing-schooners 
often  take  refuge  in  this  harbor.  The  neighboring  rural  districts  are  fer- 
tile and  thickly  populated,  and  produce  large  quantities  of  oats  and  pota- 
toes. This  town  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Gordons,  the  heroic  mission- 
aries at  Eromanga,  one  of  whom  was  martyred  in  1861,  the  other  in 
1872.  S.  of  Alberton  is  Holland  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  him- 
self by  Major  Holland,  the  English  surveyor  of  the  island;  and  6-8  M.  N. 
is  Cape  Kildare. 

Tignish  {Ryan't  Hotel)  is  the  extreme  northern  point  reached  by  the 
railway,  and  is  117  M.  from  Charlottetown.  It  has  abcut  200  inhabitants, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  fishing-stations  on  the  island.  The  in- 
habitants are  mostly  French  and  So»tch,  and  support  a  Catholic  church 
and  convent.  There  are  seve  al  other  French  villages  in  this  vicinity, 
concerning  which  the  historian  of  the  island  says:  "They  are  all  old  set- 
tlements. The  nationality  of  the  people  has  kept  them  together,  until 
their  farms  are  subdivided  into  small  portions,  and  their  dwellings  are 
numerous  and  close  together.  Few  are  skilful  farmers.  Many  prefer  to 
obtain  a  living  by  fishing  rather  than  farming.  They  are  simple  and  in- 
offensive in  their  manners;  quiet  and  uncomplaining,  and  easily  satisfied. 
The  peculiarities  of  their  race  are  not  yet  extinct;  and  under  generous 
treatment  and  superior  training,  the  national  enterprise  and  energy,  polite- 
ness and  refinement,  would  gradually  be  restored." 

North  Point  is  about  8  M.  N.  of  Tignish,  and  is  reached  by  a  sea-view- 
ing road  among  the  sand-dunes.  It  has  a  lighthouse,  which  sustams  a 
powerful  light,  and  is  an  important  point  in  the  navigation  of  the  Gulf. 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway. 

Station;).  —  Charlottetown;  Royalty  Junction, 5  M. ;  Mourt  Stewart,  22;  Car- 
digan, 40 ;  Georgetown,  46. 


Beyond  Royalty  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  follows  the 
course  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  though  generally  at  some  distance  from 
the  shore.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  the  most  favored  part  of  that 
prosperous  land  of  which  Dr.  Cuyler  says:  ''It  is  one  rich,  rrlling,  arable 
farm,  from  Cape  East  clear  up  to  Cape  North."  As  early  as  1758  there  were 
2,000  French  colonists  about  this  river.  The  Hillsborough  is  30  M.  long, 
and  the  tide  ascends  for  20  M.  Much  produce  is  shipped  from  these  shores 
during  the  autumnal  months.  About  8  M.  beyond  the  Junction  the  line 
crosses  French  Fort  Creek,  on  whose  banks  the  French  troops  erected  a 
fortification  to  protect  the  short  portage  (IJ  M.)  across  the  island,  from 
the  river  to  Tracadie  Harbor.    Here  the  military  domination  was  surren- 

1  ikucumpeCy  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "  Flowing  through  Sahd." 


GEORGETOWN. 


Houte  47.      181 


dered  to  the  British  expeditionary  forces.  At  Scotch  Fort  the  French  built 
the  tirst  church  on  the  island,  and  the  earliest  British  settlers  located, 
From  the  lofty  hill  at  St.  Andrews  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained  over  a  rich 
rural  country. 

The  Lome  House  (100  guests,  $7-10  a  week),  at  Tracadie,  is  a  favorite 
summer  resort,  4  M.  from  Bedford  station,  facing  the  outlet  of  Bedford 
Bay,  near  grassy  sand  hills,  a  long  sea-sv.ept  bathing  beach,  "the  stain- 
less sands  of  Tracadie's  high  reef,"  the  lighthouse  on  the  point,  etc.  Good 
fishing  and  shooting  in  the  vicinity,  which  is  a  rich  farming  country. 

Moimt  Stewart  is  a  prosperous  little  shipbuilding  village.  The  traia 
crosses  the  river  at  this  point,  and  ut  Mount  Stewart  Junction  it  turns 
to  the  S.  E.,  while  the  Souris  Railway  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  The  country 
which  is  now  traversed  is  thinly  settled,  and  lies  about  the  head-waters  of 
the  MoiTell  and  Pisqnid  Rivers.  There  are  several  small  lakes  in  this 
region,  and  forests  are  seen  on  either  hand.  At  Cardigan  (small  inn)  the 
line  reaches  the  head-waters  of  the  eastern  rivers.  A  road  leads  hence  to 
the  populous  settlements  on  the  Vernon  River  and  Pownal  Bay. 

Georgetown  ( Commercial  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  King's  County,  and 
has  about  800  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  long  peninsula  between 
the  Cardigan  and  Brudenelle  Rivers,  and  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  '  t  on 
the  island,  being  deep  and  secure,  and  the  last  to  be  closed  by  ice.  The 
county  buildings,  academy,  and  Episcopal  church  are  on  Kent  Square. 
The  chief  business  of  the  town  is  in  the  exportation  of  produce,  and  ship- 
building is  carried  on  to  some  extent.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  but  \^9> 
growth  has  been  very  slow.  Steamers  ply  between  this  port,  Pictou,  and 
the  Magdalen  Islands  (see  Routes  44  and  49).  The  liarbor  is  reached  by 
ascending  Cardigan  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouses  on  I'anmure  Head 
and  St.  Andrew's  Point. 

Montague  Bridge  (Montague  House)  is  reached  from  Georgetown  by  ,•> 
ferry  of  6  M.  and  11  M.  ot"  staging.  It  has  350  inhabitants  and  several 
mills.  To  the  S.  E.  is  St.  Mary's  Bay.  About  20  M.  S.  of  Georgetown  is 
Murray  Harbor^  on  which  there  are  several  Scottish  villages.  From  Cape 
Bear  the  coast  trends  W.  for  27  M.  to  Point  Prim. 


"  No  land  can  boast  more  rich  supply, 
That  e'er  was  foui  '.  benoatli  the  sky  ; 
No  purer  streams  have  ever  flowed, 
Since  Heaven  that  bounteous  gift  bestowed. 

And  herring,  like  a  mighty  host, 

And  cod  and  mackerel,  crowd  the  coast." 


"  In  this  fine  Island,  long  neglected, 
Much,  it  is  thought,  might  be  effected 
By  industry  and  application,  — 
Sources  of  wealth  with  every  nation." 


■SM" 


1S2      ItoiUe  48. 


ST.   PETER'S. 


II 


48.  Charlottetown  to  Soaris. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  loland  Railway. 

Stations.  —  Charlottetown;  Royalty  Junction,  5  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Mor> 
tell,  80;  St.  Peter's,  38^ ;  Harmony,  55  ;  Souris,  60^. 

Charlottetown  to  Mount  Stc-vtirt,  see  page  181. 

At  Mount  Stewart  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  soon 
reaches  Morrell,  a  fishnig-station  on  the  Morrell  River,  near  St.  Peter's 
Bay. 

St.  Peter's  {Prairie  Hotel)  was  from  the  first  the  most  important  port 
on  the  N.  shore  of  tlie  island,  on  account  of  its  rich  salmon-fisheries. 
About  the  year  1750  the  French  government  endeavored  to  restrict  the 
fishing  of  the  island,  and  to  stimulate  its  agriculture,  by  closing  all  the 
ports  except  St.  Peter's  and  Tracadie^  The  village  is  now  quite  small, 
though  the  salmon-fisher\'  is  valuable.  St.  Peters  Bay  runs  7  M.  into 
the  land,  but  it  is  of  little  use.  since  there  is  only  5  ft.  of  water  on  its 
sandy  bar.  From  this  inlet  to  East  Point  the  shore  is  unbroken,  and  is 
formed  of  a  line  of  red  sandstone  clifis,  33  M.  long. 

'*  The  sea-trout  fishing,  in  the  bays  and  harbors  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  espe- 
cially in  .June,  when  the  fish  first  rush  in  from  the  gulf,  is  really  magnificent.  They 
average  from  3  to  6  pounds  each.  I  found  the  best  fishing  at  St.  Peter's  Bay,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  island,  about  28  M.  from  Charlottetown.  I  there  killed  in  one 
morning  16  trout,  which  weighed  80  pounds.  In  the  bays  and  along  the  coa.sts  of 
the  island  they  are  taken  with  the  scarlet  fly,  from  a  boat  under  easy  sail,  with  a 
'  mackerel  breeze,'  and  sometimes  a  heavy  *  ground  swell.'  The  fly  skips  from  wave 
to  wave  at  the  end  of  30  yards  of  line,  and  there  should  bo  at  least  70  yards  more  on 
the  reel.  It  is  splendid  sport,  as  a  strong  fish  will  make  sometimes  a  long  run,  and 
give  a  good  chase  down  the  wind  "   (Peuley.) 

Harmony  station  is  near  Rollo  Hay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord 
Rollo,  who  occupied  the  island  with  British  troops  in  1768.  There  is  a 
small  hamlet  on  this  bay;  and  to  the  S.  W.  are  the  Gaelic  settlements  of 
Dundas,  Bridgetown,  and  Annandale,  situated  on  the  Grand  River. 

Souris  (three  inns)  Is  a  village  of  Catholic  Highlanders,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Colville  Bay,  and  divided  into  two  portions  by 
the  Souris  River.  The  harbor  is  shallow,  but  is  being  improved  by  a  break- 
water. The  sbore-fishing  is  pursued  in  fleets  of  dories,  and  most  of  the 
produce  of  the  adjacent  country  is  shipped  from  Souris  to  the  French  Isle 
of  St.  Pierre  (see  page  185).  There  Is  a  long  sandy  beach  on  the  W.  of  the 
village,  and  on  the  S.  and  E.  is  a  bold  headland.  Souris  was  settled  by 
the  Acadians  in  1748;  and  now  contains  about  500  inhabitants. 

The  East  Parish  extends  for  several  leagues  E.  of  Souris,  and  includes 
the  sca-ijhore  hamlets  of  Red  Point,  Bothwell,  East  Point,  North  Lake,  and 
Fairfield.  The  East  and  North  Lakes  are  long  and  shallow  lagoons  on  the 
coast.  East  Point  is  provided  with  a  first-class  fixed  light,  which  is  180 
ft.  above  the  sea  and  is  visible  for  18  M.  Steamboats  ply  between  SourlS| 
(jreorgetown,  and  Pictou. 


i 

1 1 


/ 


MAGDALEN  ISLANDS.  Rmte  49.      183 


l8  more  on 


49.   The  Magdalen  Islands. 

These  remote  islandn  are  HoinetimeH  Tisited,  duriDg  the  Hummer,  by  fl8hing-par- 
ties,  who  flad  rare  nport  in  catching  the  white  Hea-trout  that  abound  in  the  vicinity. 
The  acconiniodations  for  T'Hitors  are  of  the  most  primitive  kind,  but  many  defects 
art    toned  for  by  the  hospitality  of  the  peoide. 

The  n  iil-«it»':imer  Heaver  leaves  Piofou  Landinpr  for  Georgetown  and  Souri«(P.  E. 
I.),  and  the  Magdnlen  Islinuls  every  Monday  i»;t«T  th«»  arrival  of  the  H'llifix  ex- 
press. See  S.  O.  \V.  nenjiiiiin's  di'lightful  defcription  of  the  Magdalen  Islands,  in 
Th»  Century  Af'i(iti:.hte.  April,  1884. 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Port  Hood,  $  4.60 ;  to  Georgetown,  $  4  10  ;  to  the  Magdalen 
Islands,  $  8.  Further  particulars  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  James  King,  mail- 
contractor,  Halifax. 

The  !M  agdalen  Islands  nre  thirteen  in  number,  and  are  situated  at  the 
entrancj  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  50  M.  from  East  Point  (P.  E.  I.), 
60  M.  from  Cape  North  (C.  B.),  120  M.from  Cape  Ray  (N.  F.),  and  150  M. 
from  Gasp6.  When  they  are  first  seen  from  the  sea,  they  present  the  ap- 
pearance of  well-detached  islets,  but  on  a  nearer  approach  several  of  them 
are  seen  to  be  coimected  with  each  other  by  double  lines  of  sandy  beache.s, 
forming  broad  and  quiet  salt-water  lagoons.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Acadian  fishermen  (speaking  French  only),  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  the 
immense  schools  of  cod  and  mackerel  that  visit  the  neighboring  waters. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  harbors  and  lagoo  la  are  filled  with 
hundreds  of  sail  of  fishing-vessels,  most  of  which  are  American  and  Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting  is  carrie  I  on  here  with  much  success,  as  extensive 
fields  of  ice  drift  down  against  the  shores,  bearing  myriads  of  seals.  On 
one  occasion  over  6,000  seals  were  killed  here  in  less  than  a  fortnight  by 
parties  going  out  over  the  ice  from  the  shore.  This  is  also  said  to  be  the 
best  place  in  America  for  the  lobster  fishery,  and  a  Portland  company  has 
recently  founded  a  canning  establishment  here.  On  account  of  their 
abundant  returns  in  these  regards  the  Magdalen  Islands  have  rec  eived  the 
fitting  title  of  "  The  Kingdom  of  Fish."  In  order  to  protect  these  interests 
the  Dominion  armed  cutter  La  Canadienne  usually  spends  the  summer  in 
these  waters,  to  prevent  encroachments  by  Americans  and  Frenchmen. 

Amherst  Island  is  the  chief  of  the  group,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  principal 
village,  the  custom  house,  and  the  public  buildings.  On  its  S.  point  is  a 
red-and-white  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  20  M. ;  and  the  hills  in  the 
interior,  550  ft.  high,  are  seen  from  a  great  distance  by  day.  The  village  has 
3  churches  and  the  court-house,  and  is  situated  on  a  small  harbor  which 
opens  on  the  S.  of  Pleasant  Bay,  a  broad  and  secure  roadstead  where  hun- 
dreds of  vessels  sometimes  weather  heavy  storms  ni  safety.  1  M.  N.  W. 
of  the  village  is  the  singular  conical  hill  called  the  Demoiselle  (280  ft.  high), 
whence  the  bay  and  a  great  part  of  the  islands  may  be  seen. 

Grindstone  Island  is  5-0  M.  N.  of  Amherst,  and  is  connected  with  it 
by  a  double  line  of  sand-beaches,  which  enclose  the  wide  lagoon  called 
Basque  Harbor.  It  is  6  M.  long,  and  has  a  central  hill  550  ft.  high,  while 
on  tlie  W.  shore  is  the  lofty  conical  promontory  of  sandstone  which  the 


w 


184      Route  49.  MAGDALEN  ISLANDS. 

Acadians  call  Cap  de  Meule.  On  the  same  side  is  the  thriving  hamlet  of 
V£ltang  du  Nord.  On  the  E.,  and  containing  7  square  miles,  is  Alright 
Island,  terminated  by  the  grayish-white  ciitFs  of  Cape  Alright,  over  400 
ft.  high.  A  sand-beach  runs  N.  E.  10  M.  from  Grindstone  to  Wolf  Island, 
a  sandstone  rock  |  M.  long;  and  another  beach  runs  thence  9  M.  farther 
to  the  N.  E.  to  Grosse  Island,  on  the  Grand  Lagoon.  This  island  has  another 
line  of  lofty  cliffs  of  sandstone.  To  the  E.  is  CoJJin  Island,  and  4  M.  N.  is 
Bryon  Island,  beyond  wliich  are  the  Bird  Isles. 

Entry  Island  lies  to  the  E.  of  Amherst  Island,  off  the  entrance  to 
Pleasant  Bay,  and  is  the  most  picturesque  of  the  group  Near  the  centre 
is  a  hill  580  ft.  high,  visible  for  25  M.,  and  from  whose  summit  the 
whole  Magdalen  group  can  be  overlooked.  The  wonderful  cliffs  of  red 
sandstone  which  line  the  shores  of  this  island  are  very  picturesque  in  their 
effect,  and  reach  a  height  of  400  ft. 

Deadman's  Isle  is  a  rugged  rock  8  M.  W.  of  Amherst,  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  its  contour  to  that  of  a  corpse  laid 
out  for  burial.  While  passing  this  rock,  in  1804,  Tom  Moore  wrote  the 
poem  which  closes :  , 


"  There  lleth  a  wreck  on  the  dismal  shore 
Of  cold  and  pitiless  Labrador, 
'Where,  under  the  moon,  upon  mounts  of 

frost. 
Full  many  a  mariner's  bones  are  tossed. 

"Yon  shadowy  bark  hath  been  to  that  wreck. 
And  the  dim  blue  fire  that  lights  her  deck 


Doth  play  on  as  pale  and  livid  a  crew 
As  ever  yet  drunk  the  churchyard  dew. 

To  Deadinan'3  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  blast, 
To  Dordmrn's  Isle  she  speeds  her  fast ; 
By  skeleton  shapes  her  sails  are  furled, 
And  the  hand  that  steers  is  not  of  this 
world." 


The  Bird  Isles  are  two  bare  rocks  of  red  sandstone,  |  M.  apart,  the  chief 
of  which  is  known  as  Ganiiet  Rock,  and  is  1,300  ft.  long  and  100-140  ft. 
high,  lined  with  vertical  cliffs  These  isles  are  haunted  by  immense  num- 
bers of  sea-birds,  gannets,  guillemots,  puffins,  kitti  wakes,  and  razor-billed 
auks.  "  No  other  breeding-place  on  our  shore  is  so  remarkable  at  once 
for  the  number  and  variety  of  the  species  occupying  it."  Immense  quan- 
tities of  eggs  are  carried  thence  by  the  islanders,  but  to  a  less  extent  than 
formerly. 

This  great  natural  ciiriosity  was  visited  in  1632  by  the  Jesuits  (who  called  the  rocks 
Les  Colombiers),  by  Heriot  in  1807,  by  Audubon,  and  in  1860  by  Dr.  Bryan.  The 
Dominion  has  recently  erected  a  lighthouse  here  at  great  expense,  and  to  the  imminent 
peril  of  those  engaged  in  the  work,  since  there  is  no  landing-place,  and  in  breezy 
weather  the  surf  diishes  violently  against  the  cliffs  all  around.  The  tower  bears  a 
fixed  white  light  of  the  first  class,  which  is  vi  ible  for  21  M. 

Charlevoix  visited  these  islands  in  1720,  and  wondered  how, "  in  such  a  Multitude 
of  Nests,  every  Bird  immediately  finds  her  own.  U'e  fired  a  Gun,  which  gave  the 
Alarm  tliro'  all  this  flying  Common  wealth,  and  there  was  formed  above  the  two 
Islands,  a  thick  Cloud  of  these  Birds,  which  was  at  least  two  or  three  Leagues 
around.*' 


The  Magdalen  Islands  were  vis-ited  by  Cartier  in  1534,  but  the  first  permanent  sta- 
tion was  founded  here  in  16l3  by  a  company  of  Hontieur  mariners,  to  whom  the 
islands  were  conceded  by  the  Company  of  New  France  In  1720  the  Duchess  of 
Orleans  granted  them  to  the  Count  de  St.  Pierre.  In  1763  they  were  inhabited  by 
10  Acadian  families,  and  in  1767  a  Bostonian  named  Gridley  founded  on  Amherst 


ST.   PIERRE  AND   MIQUELON.     Route  50,      185 

Iiland  an  estnbli.'ihtnent  for  trading  and  for  the  8eal  and  walrus  fisheries.  During 
the  Uuvolutiun  Xinerican  privateurs  vlMted  the  isiandM,  and  destroyed  every Ihiug 
acccssi'.ile.  tJiidley  returned  after  tlie  war,  but  the  walrui*  .>«oou  became  extinct, 
and  the  isiaudors  turned  their  attention  to  tiie  coil  and  lierrin^?  fisheries.  When 
Admiral  (.'oifin  received  Ids  grant  tiieie  were  l(X)  tiiniilies  liere;  in  1831  tiiere  were 
1,000  inhiiljiiants:  and  the  present  population  is  about  3,:'>(tO.  In  tlii"  nienn  time 
thrw*  colonies  have  l»een  founded  and  populated  fr.im  these  islands,  on  Labrador  and 
the  N.  shore.  Tlie  Lord"s-Day  Uale  (see  page  170)  wrougiit  sail  havoc  among  tuo 
fleets  in  tlie.-e  .vators. 

Tradition  tells  that  when  Capt.  Coffin  was  conveying  Governor-General  Lord  Dor- 
chester to  (Canada  in  his  frigate,  a  fuiious  storm  arose  in  tiie  CJu.f,  a.al  tiie  skilful 
mariner  saved  iiis  vessel  by  g;iiinig  shiltcr  under  the  lee  of  these  islands.  Dorche-- 
ter,  grateful  for  his  preserv.ition,  secured  for  the  captain  tiie  grant  of  the  isl.i.ds 
"in  free  and  conmion  .'oceage,'"  with  the  rights  of  bnildiug  roads  and  fortifications 
reservid  to  the  Cro.vn.  Tlie  grantee  was  a  native  of  IJoston  and  a  benefactor  of 
Nantucket,  and  subsequently  became  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coffin.  The  grant  now 
belongs  to  his  nepliew,  .Admiral  Coffin,  of  JJath,  and  is  an  entailed  estate  of  the 
family.  In  1873,  75  years  after  the  grant,  the  legislature  of  Quebec  (in  whose  juris- 
diction the  islands  lie)  made  extensive  investigations  with  a  view  to  buy  out  the  pro- 
prietor's claim,  since  many  of  the  islanders  had  emigrated  to  Labrador  and  the 
Mlngan  Isles,  dissatisfied  with  their  uncertain  tenure  of  the  land. 


50.    St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon. 

Time-Tahh  for  1888.  —  Str.  St.  Pierre  leaves  Halifax  every  alternate  Monday 
at  10  A.  M.  (providing  the  mail  from  England  has  then  arrived),  for  St.  Fierre,  Miq., 
traversing  the  Bras  d'Or  Lalces,  and  calling  at  the  following  ports  in  Cape  Breton. 
St.  Peters,  fare,  .1?6.(Hj ;        return,  #9  00,  ^ 

Baddeck,  "       7.00 ;  "        lo  50,  | 

Sv<lnev.  *'       8.011;  "        12 '  0,  '   including  meals  and 

N.  Sydney,  "       8.00 ;  '♦       12.00,  i   state-room  berth, 

and  Cow  Bay,  '•       9  00;  "       14  00,  | 

Fare  to  f*t   Pierre,  SSl'vO') ;  return,  *25.  ) 

St.  Pierre  may  also  be  visited  by  the  Western  Coastal  steamer  fn>m  St.  John's, 
N.  F.  (see  Boute  60). 

There  are  several  French  cafia  and  pensions  in  the  village  of  St.  Pierre,  at  which 
the  traveller  can  find  indiflFerent  accommodations.  The  best  of  these  is  that  at  which 
the  telegraph-operators  stop. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  St.  Pierre,  the  steamer  passes  Ga'antry  Hfarl,  on  which 
is  a  red-and-white  flash-light  which  is  visible  for  20  M.,  and  also  two  fog-guns. 
Within  the  harbor  are  two  fixed  lights,  one  w  lite  and  one  red,  which  are  visible  for 
6  M.  ;  and  the  Isle  aux  Chiens  contains  a  scattered  fishing-village. 

The  island  of  St.  Pierre  is  about  12  M  from  Point  May,  on  the  New- 
foundland coast,  and  is  12  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  mostly  composed  of 
rugged  porphyritic  ridges,  utterly  arid  and  barren,  and  the  scenery  is  of 
a  striki  g  and  singular  character.  Back  of  the  village  's  the  hill  of  CaU 
vairCy  surmounted  by  a  tall  cross;  and  to  the  S.  VV.,  l)eyond  Ravenel  Bay, 
is  the  lakelet  called  Z'  Etnnf/  du  Savoyard.  The  town  is  compactly  built  on 
the  harbor  at  the  E.  of  the  island,  and  some  of  its  houses  are  of  .'itone.  It 
is  guarded  by  about  50  French  soldiers,  whose  presence  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  multitudes  of  fearless  and  pugnacious  sailors  from  incessant  riot- 
ing. There  is  a  large  force  of  telegraph-operators  here,  in  charge  of  the 
two  cables  from  America  to  Great  Britain  by  way  of  Newfoundland,  and 
of  the  Franco-American  cable,  which  runs  E.  to  Brest  and  S.  W.  to  Dux- 
bury,  in  Massachusetts. 

The  only  good  house  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Governor;  and  the  Cath' 


186      liouteSO.    ST.  PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON. 


olic  church  and  convent  rise  prominently  over  the  low  houses  of  the  fisher- 
men. Near  the  sea  is  a  battery  of  ancient  guns,  which  are  used  only  for 
warning  in  season  of  fogs.  The  buildings  are  nearly  all  of  wood,  and  in- 
clude many  shops,  where  every  variety  of  goods  may  be  obtained.  The 
merchants  are  connected  with  French  and  American  firms.  There  are 
numerous  aibartts,  or  drinking-saloons ;  and  the  aiiberges,  or  small  taverns, 
are  thoroughly  French.  The  citizens  are  famed  for  their  hospitality  to 
properly  accredited  strangers;  and  the  literary  culture  of  the  community 
is  served  by  a  diminutive  weekly  paper  called  La  Feuille  OJJicielle^  printed 
on  a  sheet  of  foolscap,  and  containing  its  serial  Parisian  ftuillttun. 

The  street  of  St.  Pierre  presents  a  very  interesting  sight  during  the 
spring  and  fall  It  is  crowded  with  many  thousands  of  hardy  fishermen, 
arrayed  in  the  quaint  costumes  of  their  native  shores,  —  Normans,  Bretons, 
Basques,  Provincials,  and  New-Englanders,  —  all  active  and  alert;  while 
the  implements  of  the  fisheries  are  seen  on  every  side.  The  environs  of 
the  town  are  rocky  and  utterly  unproductive,  so  that  the  provisions  used 
here  are  imported  from  the  Provinces. 

The  resident  population  is  6,000  (of  whom  24  are  Protestant),  and  the 
government  is  conducted  by  a  Commandant,  a  Police  Magistrate,  Doctor, 
Apostolic  Prefect,  and  Engineer,  with  a  few  artillerists  and  gens-d'armes. 
There  is  usually  one  or  more  French  frigates  in  the  harbor,  looking  after 
the  vast  fisheries  which  employ  15,000  sailors  of  France,  and  return 
30,000,000  francs'  worth  of  fish. 

St.  Pierre  is  the  chief  rendezvous  of  the  French  fishermen,  and  ioimense  fleets  are 
sometimes  gathered  here.  Over  1,000  sail  of  t^quare-rigged  vessels  from  France  are 
engaged  in  these  fisheries,  and  on  the  i9tli  of  June,  1874,  the  roadstead  near  tlie 
island  contained  350  sail  of  pquare-rigged  vessels  and  300  fore-and-aft  vessels.  They 
are  here  furnished  with  supplies,  which  are  drawn  from  the  adjacent  Provinces,  and 
*n  r-^turn  leave  many  of  the  luxuries  of  Old  France.  It  is  claimed  that  the  brandy 
<^i  •  t.  Pierre  is  the  best  in  America.  The  fishermen  leave  their  fish  here  to  be  cured, 
and  from  this  point  they  are  sent  S.  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies. 

Little  Miquelon  IslamJ,  or  Langley  Island,  lies  3  M.  N.  W.  of  St.  Pierre,  and  is 
about  24  M.  around.  It  is  joined  to  Great  Miquelon  Islancl  by  a  long  and 
narrow  sandy  isthmus.  The  latter  island  is  12  M.  long,  and  looks  out  on  Fortune 
Bay.  Near  its  N.  end  are  the  singular  hills  known  as  Mt.  Chapeau  and  Mt  Cal- 
vaire.  On  this  island,  during  the  summer  of  1874,  was  wrecked  H  B.  M.  frigate 
Niobe,  the  brave  ship  that  trained  her  guns  on  Santiago  de  Cuba,  and  prevented  a 
total  massacre  of  the  Virginivs  prisoners. 

St.  Pierre  was  captured  by  a  British  fleet  in  1793,  and  all  its  inhabitants,  1,502  in 
number,  were  carried  away  to  Halifax,  whence  they  were  soon  afterwards  sent  to 
France.  In  1796  a  French  Republican  fleet  under  Admiral  Richery  visited  the  de- 
serted island,  and  completely  destroyed  its  buildings  and  wharves.  It  was,  how- 
ever, restoo'd  to  France  in  1814,  together  with  her  ancient  privileges  in  these 
waters.  "All  the  island  is  only  a  great  laboratory  for  the  preparation,  curing, 
and  exportation  of  codfish  For  the  rest,  not  a  tree,  not  a  bush,  above  26  centi- 
metres." 

The  Hotel  Joinville  and  the  Pension  Hacala  are  visited  by  strangers.  Theatricals 
are  given  at  the  Casino  on  the  Cathedral  Square. 

See  a  capital  illustrated  article  on  St.  Pierre,  by  S.  G.  W.  Benjamin,  in  Thi 
Century  Afay^zine,  June,  18 S4. 


Prl 
tsiai 


Is 

Stral 
N.  tJ 
estiij 
is  ini 


son. 


Travellers  intending  to  visit  Newfoundland  should  send  to  the  Queen^a 
Printer^  at  St.  John's,  for  the  Ykar-Book  and  Almanac,  detailing  the 
island  routes,  distances,  etc. 


NEWFOUNDLAND 


i  fleets  are 


Is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  N.  by  the 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  on  the  E.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  From 
N.  to  S.  it  is  350  M.  long,  and  the  average  breadth  is  130  M.,  giving  an 
estimated  area  of  40,200  square  miles.  The  coast  is  steep  and  bold,  and 
Is  indented  with  numerous  deep  bays  and  fiords.  Mines  of  lead  and  cop- 
per are  being  worked  with  much  success,  and  there  are  large  undeveloped 
deposits  of  coal  on  the  W  coast. 

"  Up  go  the  surges  on  the  coast  of  Newfoundland,  and  down  again  into  the  sea. 
The  huge  island  ....  stands,  with  its  sheer,  beetling  cliffs,  out  of  the  ocean,  a  mon- 
strous mass  of  rock  and  gravel,  almost  without  soil,  like  a  strange  thing  from  the 
bottom  of  the  great  deep,  lifted  up  suddenly  into  sunshine  and  storm,  but  belong- 
ing to  the  watery  darkness  out  of  which  it  has  been  reared.  The  eye  accustomed  to 
richer  and  softer  scenes  flnds  something  of  a  strange  and  almost  startUng  beauty  in 
its  bold,  hard  outlines,  cut  out  on  every  side  against  the  sky Inland,  sur- 
rounded by  a  frinjjfe  of  small  forests  on  the  coasts,  is  a  vast  wilderness  of  moss,  and 
rock,  and  lake,  and  dwarf  firs  about  breast-high-  These  littlo  trees  are  so  close  and 
stiff  and  flat-topped  that  one  can  alniost  walk  on  them.  Of  course  they  are  very  hard 
things  to  make  way  through  and  among  ....  In  March  or  April  almost  all  the 
men  go  out  in  fl«  ets  to  meet  the  ice  that  floats  down  from  the  northern  regions  and 
to  kill  the  seals  that  coine  down  on  it.  In  early  summer  a  third  part  or  a  half  of 
all  the  people  go,  by  fan:ilies,  in  their  schooners,  to  the  coast  of  liabrador,  and 
?pend  the  summer  fl..ihing  there  ;  and  in  the  winter,  half  of  them  are  living  in  the 
woods,  in  tilts,  to  have  their  fuel  near  them.  At  home  or  abroad,  during  the  sea- 
son, the  men  are  on  the  water  for  seals  or  cod.  The  women  s«w,  and  plant,  and 
tend  the  little  gardens,  and  dry  the  fish  ;  in  short,  they  do  the  land-work,  and  are 
the  better  for  it."  (R.  T.  S.  Lowell.) 

Two  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  natural  history  of  the  island 
are  thus  quaintly  set  forth  by  Whitboume  (anno  1622) :  "  Neither  are  there 
any  Snakes,  Toads,  Serpents,  or  any  other  venomous  Wormes  that  ever 
were  knovvne  to  hurt  any  man  in  that  country,  but  only  a  very  little  nim- 
ble fly  (the  least  of  all  other  flies),  which  is  called  a  Miskieto;  those  flies 
seem  to  have  a  gi-eat  power  and  authority  upon  all  loj'tering  and  idle  peo- 
ple that  come  to  the  Newfoundland."  Instances  have  been  known  where 
the  flies  have  attacked  men  with  such  venom  and  multitudes  that  fatal 
results  have  followed.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  are  vast  unexplored 
regions,  studded  with  large  lakes  and  mountain-ranges.  Through  these 
solitudes  roam  countless  thousands  of  deer,  which  are  pursued  by  the  Mic- 
mac  hunters. 

Newfoundland  was  discovered  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  tenth  century, 
but  they  merely  observed  the  coast  and  made  no  further  explorations. 


I 


188       Route  51. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


I! 


There  is  gootl  reason  for  supposing  tlmt  it  was  frequented  by  Breton  and 
Norman  fishermen  during  the  fourteentli  century.  In  1497  the  inland  was 
formally  discovered  by  .John  Cabot,  wlio  was  voyaging  under  the  patron- 
age of  Henry  V^ll.  of  Fngland.  Tlie  explorations  of  Cortereal  (1601),  Ve- 
razzano  (1524),  nn  i  Cartier  (1534),  ail  touched  here,  and  great  fishing- 
fleets  began  to  visit  tlie  surrounding  seas.  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  took 
possession  of  Newfoundland  in  tlio  name  of  England,  in  1583,  making 
this  the  most  ancient  colony  of  tlie  liritish  Empire.  The  settlements 
of  Guy,  Whitbourne,  Calvert,  and  others  were  soon  established. 

The  fishermen  were  terribly  persecuted  by  pirates  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  17th  century.  I'eter  Easton  alone  had  10  sail  of  corsairs  on  the 
coast,  claiming  that  ho  was  '*  master  of  the  seas,"  and  levying  heavy 
taxes  on  all  the  vessels  in  these  waters.  Between  1612  and  1660  alone, 
the  pirates  captured  180  pieces  of  ordnance,  1,080  fishermen,  and  large 
fleets  of  vessels. 

Between  1692  and  1713  the  French  made  vigorous  attempts  to  conquer 
the  island,  and  the  struggle  raged  with  varying  fortunes  on  the  E.  and  S. 
shores.  By  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  the  French  received  permission  to  catch 
and  cure  fish  along  the  W.  coast  (see  Route  61)  In  1728  Newfoundland 
was  formed  into  a  Province,  and  courts  were  established.  The  French  made 
determined  attacks  in  1761  and  1796,  and  the  people  were  reduced  to 
great  extremity  by  the  Non-Intercourse  Act  passed  by  the  American  Con- 
gress in  1776  and  again  in  1812-14.  In  1817  there  were  80,000  inhab- 
itants, and  800  vessels  were  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  whose  product  was 
valued  at  $10,000,000  a  year.  In  1832  the  first  Legislative  Assembly  was 
convened;  in  1838  a  geological  survey  was  made;  and  in  1858  the  Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable  was  landed  on  these  shores.  Newfoundland  has  re- 
fused to  enter  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  is  still  governed  diiettly  by 
tlitj  biitish  Crown.    It  had  197,589  inhabitants  in  1884,  uiid  2u2,.,uu  ii.  Jo./-. 


51.   Halifax  to  Si;.  John's,  NewfouLdland. 

The  ocean  steamships  betW(H>n  Halifax  and  Liverpool  call  at  St.  .Tohn's  frequfiltl.v. 

Tlie  new  steamers  of  the  Red  Cross  Line  run  from  New 
York  (office,  18  Broadway),  to  Ilalifax  and  St.  Jolin's.  New  York  to  Hiiiifax,  60 
hrs. ;  stay  at  Halifax,  20  lirs. ;  Halifax  to  St.  John's  50  hrs  ;  stay  at  St.  John's,  60 
hrs  ;  St.  John's  to  Halifax,  50  hrs.:  stay  at  Halifax. !)')  hrs  ;  Halifax  to  New  York, 
60  hrs.     Average  time  of  the  entire  round  trip,  12  days. 

Fares :  N.  Y.  to  Halifax,  first  cabin,  .1516  second  cabin,  SO ;  to  Halifax  and  return, 
$28,  or  .f  16  :  N.  Y.  to  St.  .John's,  3634,  or  !»18 ;  to  St.  J  ohn's  and  return ,  SfeO,  or  .f  32  ; 
Halifax  to  St.  John's,  ."#18,  or  #9  ;  to  St.  John's  and  return,  $34,  or  *16.  Sailings 
every  15  days  in  summer ;  every  10  days  in  spring  and  autumn. 

Halifax  to  Sydney,  see  page  148. 

After  leaving  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  Flint  Island  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the 
blue  ranges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  on  the  1.  The  course  is  but  little  N.  of 
£.,  and  the  horizon  soon  becomes  level  and  landless.  Sometimes  the  dim 
blue  hills  of  St.  Pierre  are  the  first  land  seen  after  the  Cape-Breton  coast 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


R(mte52.       189 


Breton  and 
ii^lnnd  was 
the  patron- 
(1601),  Ve- 
ent  fishin^- 
iilbert  took 
.83,  tnnking 
settlements 

shed. 

the  earlier 
rsairs  on  the 
/ying  heavy 
I  1660  alone, 
n,  and  large 

ts  to  conquer 
the  K.  and  S. 
sion  to  catch 
ewfoundland 
French  made 
e  reduced  to 
tnerican  Con- 
50,000  inhab- 
product  was 
ssembly  was 
58  the  Atlan- 
land  has  re- 
directly  by 
|2,.  uUiii  J:>.>-. 


r 

Ill's  frequflitly. 

1  run  from  New 

to  Halifax,  50 

,  St.  John's,  60 

to  New  York, 

Ifax  and  return, 
i,8F60,or*82; 
iltie.    Sailings 


Ihe  r.,  and  the 
It  little  N.  of 
fcmes  the  dim 
LBreton  coast 


sinks  below  the  horizon;  but  generally  the  bold  mountain-promontory  of 
Cape  Ghapeau  Itouge  is  the  first  recognisable  shore.  Then  the  deep  bight 
of  Placentia  Bay  opens  away  on  the  N.  After  roimding  Cape  Race  (see 
page  199),  the  steamship  stretches  away  up  the  Strait  Shore  past  a  line 
of  fishing  hamlets,  deep  fiords,  and  rocky  cnpos. 

••  When  the  mists  dispersed,  the  rocky  shoreg  of  Newfoundland  were  close  upon 
our  left,  —  lofty  olilTs,  red  and  gray ,  terribly  beaten  by  the  wave*  of  the  broad  ooean. 
We  aniUHed  ourselves,  as  we  passed  abreast  the  bays  and  hcatliands  and  rugged 
islands,  with  gazing  at  the  wild  scene,  and  setirvhing  out  the  Iwauty  timidly  reposing 
among  the  bleak  and  desolate.  On  the  whole,  Newfoundland,  to  the  voyager  from 
the  Stiites,  is  a  lean  and  bony  land,  in  thin,  ragged  clothes,  with  the  smallest  amount 
of  adornment.  Along  the  sides  of  the  dull,  brown  mountains  there  is  a  suspicion 
of  verdure,  spotted  and  strij^d  here  and  there  with  meagre  woods  of  birch  and  flr. 
The  glory  of  this  hard  region  is  its  coast;  a  wonderful  perplexity  of  fiords,  bays  and 
creeks,  islands,  peninsulas  and  ca|>es,  endlessly  picture.<«(iue  and  very  often  magnify 
cently  grand.  Nothing  can  well  exceed  the  headlands  and  precipices,  honeycombed, 
shattered,  and  hollowed  out  into  vast  caverns,  and  given  up  to  the  thunders  and  the 
fury  of  the  deep-sea  billows.  .  .  The  brooks  that  How  from  the  highland-),  and  fall 
over  cliRs  of  great  elevation  into  the  very  surf,  and  that  would  ins  counted  features 
of  grandeur  in  some  countries,  are  here  the  merest  trifles,  a  kind  of  jew  Iry  on  the 
hem  of  the  landscape."    (Noble.) 

"  I'iie  first  view  of  the  harbor  of  iSt  ,Ti>hn*s  is  very  striking  Lofty  precipitous 
cliffs, of  hard  dark-red  sandstone  and  conglomenite,  range  along  the  coast,  with  deep 
water  close  at  their  feet  Their  beds  plunge  from  a  height  of  4()O-70O  ft.,  at  an  angle 
of  70°,  right  into  the  sea,  where  they  are  ceiiselessly  dashed  against  by  the  unbroken 
swell  of  the  Atlantic  waves  '^    (Jukes  ) 

52.   St  John's,  Newfonndland. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  '*  The  harbor  of  St  John's  Is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  for  bold  and  effective  scenery  on  the  Atlantic  shore.  ...  We  were 
moving  spiritedly  forward  over  a  bright  and  lively  sea,  watching  the  stern  headlands 
re<'eding  in  the  south,  and  starting  out  to  view  in  the  north,  when  we  pa.ssed  Cape 
S{»ear,  a  lofty  promontory,  crowned  with  a  lighthou.se  and  a  sigiial-st)iff,  upon  which 
W!u«  tioating  the  meteor  flag  of  England,  and  at  once  found  ourselves  abreast  the 
bay  in  front  of  St.  John's.  Not  a  vestige,  though,  of  anything  like  a  city  was  iu 
siglit,  except  another  Hag  Hitting  on  a  distjint  pinnacle  of  rock.  Like  a  mighty 
Coliseum,  the  sea-wall  half  encircled  the  deep  water  of  this  outer  bay,  into  which 
the  full  power  of  the  ocean  let  itself  under  every  wind  except  the  westerly.  Right 
towards  the  coast  where  it  gathered  it.self  up  into  the  greatest  maj^siveness,  and  tii-d 
Itself  into  a  very  Gordian  knot,  we  cut  across,  curious  to  behold  when  and  where  the 
rugged  adamant  was  going  to  split  and  let  us  through  At  length  it  opened,  and  we 
looked  through,  and  presently  glided  through  a  kind  of  mountain-pa.s8,  with  all  the 
lonely  grandeur  of  the  Franconia  Notch.  Above  us,  and  close  above,  the  rugged, 
brown  cliffs  i-ose  to  a  fine  height,  armed  at  certain  points  with  cannon,  and  before 
us,  to  all  appearance,  opened  out  a  most  beautiful  mountain  lake,  with  a  little  city 
looking  down  from  the  mountain-side,  and  a  swamp  of  shipping  along  its  shores.  Wo 
were  in  the  harbor,  and  before  St  John's."    (Noble.) 

Hotels.  New  Atlantic  Hotel,  60  rooms,  parlors,  billiard  rooms,  etc.,  elevator, 
electric  bells,  view  of  harbor;  Union  Uou^e,  3(9  »Vuter  bt.  There  are  a  so  two  or 
three  boarding-houses.  Mrs.  Muinis's,  353  Water  ISt.,  is  one  of  the  best  of  the^«; 
and  Kuight's  Home,  173  Water  iSt.,  is  tolerable. 

Carriages  may  be  engaged  at  the  stands  on  Water  St.  (near  the  Post-ORlce). 
The  rate  per  hour  is  80c 

Amusements,  generally  of  merely  local  interest,  are  prepared  in  the  City  Hall 
There  is  a  Masonic  Temple.  Boat-racing  is  frequently  carried  on  at  Quiddy-Viddj 
Pond      Cricket-matches  are  also  played  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 

Post-OAIce,  at  the  Market  House,  on  Water  St.  Telegraph,  New  York,  New 
foundland,  and  Loudon  Co.,  at  the  Market  House. 


— rrc: 


I 


I   t 


I 


190      Route  52. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


Mall-waRons  leave  St.  John's  for  Portugal  CoVe,  dally ;  to  Bay  Bulls  and 
Porryland,  weekly  ;  to  Salmonier  and  iMurentla.  on  the  day  of  arrival  of  the  Hali- 
fax niiiil.     Railroad  tn  points  on  (Conception  U.-iy. 

Stt^ainshipH.  —  For  llay-dc  Verds,  Trinity,  Catalina,  Bonavistji,  King's  Cove, 
(lii'cnspond,  Fogo,  Twilllngate,  Exploits  Island,  Little  Hay  Island,  Tilt  Cove,  Belt's 
('ove,  Nipper's  Harbor,  arid  the  Labrador  eoa«t ;  to  Ferryland.  Wenewpo,  Trepassey, 
Burin,  8t.  Lawrence,  Grand  Bank,  St.  Pierre.  Harbor  Briton.  (i;mltoiM,On>at  Jervols, 
Bnrgeo,  Little  Bay  (La  Poilo),  Uooe  Blanche  Channel,  and  Sydnev.  Pares  (meals 
inclufh'd')  to  Bay-de-Verd^^  or  Ferrvlanil,  1)  s  ;  Trinltv  or  Placentia,  20  8.; 
C.atalina  or  Burin,  20s,  :  Fogo  or  St.  Pierre,  32s.  fid.;  Tilt  Cove,  40».;  Rose 
Blanche,  50 s.  ;  Sydney,  70s.  These  steamships  to  the  Northern  and  West^'rn  nut- 
ports  leave  about  every  ten  days,  and  connect  with  the  /fcrculen  for  liabmdor. 
The  no7tnvisfa  runs  from  St.  John's  to  Pietou  and  Montreal  every  fortnitrlit,  in 
summer  The  Red-Cross  |j|nc  runs  the  Miranda,  and  Partia  sf*>ntiishi|iN  from  St. 
John's  to  Halifax  and  New  York  every  ten  days.  (St-e  pajre  188)  The  Allan- Line 
steamships  from  Halifax  to  Liverpool  reach  St.  Johu'8  in  48  hrs. 

St.  John's,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Newfoundland,  is  situated  in 
latitude  47°  33'  3.1"  N  ,  and  longitude  52^  45'  10"  W.,  and  is  built  en  the 
slope  of  a  long  hill  which  risos  from  tho  shore  of  a  deep  and  secun^  har- 
bor. At  the  time  of  the  census  of  1869  there  were  22,555  inhabitants  in 
the  city  (there  are  now  about  27,000);  but  the  population,  owing  to  the 
peculiar  character  of  its  chief  industr}-,  is  liable  at  any  time  to  be  in- 
creased  or  diminished  by  several  thousand  men.  The  greater  part  of  the 
citizens  are  connected  with  tho  fisheries,  directly  or  indirectly,  and  large 
fleets  are  despatched  from  the  port  throughout  the  season.  Their  return, 
or  tho  airival  of  the  soaling-stcamers,  with  their  great  crows,  brings  new 
life  to  the  streets,  and  oftentimes  results  in  such  general  "rows*'  us  re- 
quire tkie  attendance  of  a  large  police-force.  The  interests  of  the  city  are 
all  with  the  sea,  from  which  arc  drawn  its  revenues,  and  over  which  pass 
the  fleets  which  bring  in  provisions  from  the  Provinces  and  States  to  the 
S.  W.  The  manufactures  of  St.  John's  are  insignificant,  and  consist,  for 
the  most  part,  of  biscuit-bakeries  and  oil-refineries  (on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  harbor).  An  immense  bu-iness  is  done  by  the  mercantile  houses 
on  Water  St.  in  furnishing  supplies  to  the  outports  (a  term  applied  to  all 
the  other  ports  of  Newfoundland  except  St.  John's);  and  one  firm  alone 
has  a  trade  amounting  to  S  12,000,000  a  year.  For  about  one  month, 
during  the  busy  setison,  tlie  streets  are  absolutely  crowded  with  the  people 
from  the  N.  and  W.  coast-  selling  their  fish  and  oil,  and  laying  in  pro- 
visions and  other  supplies  .r  the  ensuing  year.  The  commercial  interests 
are  served  by  three  banks  and  a  chamber  of  C(mimerce;  and  the  literary 
standard  of  society  is  maintained  by  tho  St.  John's  Athenojum  and  the 
(^atholic  Institute.  The  city  is  supplied  with  gas,  and  water  is  brought 
in  from  a  lake  4^  M.  distant,  by  works  wiiich  cost  $300,000. 

"  In  trying  to  describe  St  John's,  there  is  some  difficulty  in  applying  an  adjec- 
tive to  it  sufficiejitly  distinctive  and  appropriate.  We  find  other  cities  coupled  with 
words  which  at  oiice  give  tlioir  predominant  characteristic .  London  tlie  richest, 
Paris  the  gayest,  St.  Petersburg  the  coldest.  In  one  respect  tlie  chief  town  of  New- 
foundland lias,  1  believe,  no  rival ;  we  may,  therefore,  call  it  the  fishiest  of  modern 
capitals.  Round  a  great  fwirt  of  the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  with 
cod  split  in  half,  laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  U 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


noutens.     191 


Bay  Bull«  and 
il  of  the  Ilall- 

,  King's  Cove, 
It  Covo,  Bctt'8 
irpc,  Tfcpa«Bey, 
,On<ftt  .fprvolfl, 
Knn>s  (mpals 
arortf  iii,  20  8.  *, 
,^,  40s. ;    Rose 

(I'WoSt^TTl  out- 

:  for  liabtiidor. 
•y  fortnight,  in 
nships  from  i^t. 
Tht>  Allan- Lino 


is  situat<'d  in 
is  built  on  {lie 
1(1  siTuro  har- 
inhabitnnts  in 
owing  to  the 
time  to  be  in- 
ter piirt  of  the 
ftly,  and  large 
Their  return, 
vs,  brings  new 
'  rows*'  us  re- 
of  the  city  are 
•er  which  pass 
States  to  the 
nd  consist,  lor 
opposite  side 
vnntile  houses 
jipplied  to  all 
Mie  firm  alone 
it  one  month, 
A'ith  the  people 
laying  in  pro- 
orcial  interests 
|id  the  liteniry 
ia?um  and  the 
tcr  is  brought 


Jiplvinn  an  adjcc- 
[ies  coiiploJ  \i\i\\ 
lion  the  riohcpt, 
Bef  town  of  Now- 
ljhl«'st  of  modern 
But,  roofed  with 
,  ttir,  for  there  U 


not  much  of  the  former  to  depend  upon The  town  U  Irreffulnr  and  dirty,  huilt 

chleHy  of  wood,  the  dauipnesB  of  the  climate  rendering  ntone  un.Huitiihie."   (Eliot 
Wardurtox.) 

The  harbor  is  small,  but  deep,  and  is  so  thoroughly  landlocked  that  the 
water  is  always  smooth.  Hero  may  g«merally  be  seen  two  or  three  liritish 
and  French  frigates,  and  at  the  close  of  the  season  these  narrow  waters  are 
well  filled  with  the  vessels  of  the  fishiiig-flccts  and  the  powerlul  sealing- 
steamers.  Along  the  shores  are  the  fish-stages,  where  innnense  (|uantitieH 
of  cod,  herring,  and  salmon  are  cured  and  made  ready  for  exportation. 
On  the  S.  shore  are  bcveral  wharves  right  under  the  clifi's,  and  also  a  float- 
ing dock  which  takes  up  vessels  of  800  tons'  burden.  The  (UJtrance  to  the 
harbor  is  called  the  ''^  Narrows,  and  is  a  stu[)endous  cleft  in  the  massive 
ridge  which  lines  the  coast.  It  is  about  1,800  ft.  long,  aij<l  at  its  narrow- 
est point  is  but  660  ft  wide.  On  either  sid  ■  rise  precipitous  walls  of  sand- 
stone and  conglomerate,  of  which  Signal  Ilill  (on  the  N.  side)  reaches  an 
altitude  of  620  ft,  and  the  southern  ridge  is  nearly  700  ft  high.  Vessels 
coming  in  from  the  ocean  are  unable  to  see  the  Narrows  u.til  d  ).>^e  upon 
it,  and  steer  for  the  lofty  block-house  on  vSignal  Ilili.  TIk!  [xjints  nt  the 
entrance  were  formerly  well  fortilicid,  and  during  war-time  the  harbor  was 
closed  by  a  chain  <lrawn  across  the  Narrows,  but  the  batteries  are  now  in 
a  neglected  condition,  and  are  nearly  disaruKMl. 

The  city  occupies  the  rugged  hill  on  the  N.  of  the  harl)or,  and  is  built 
on  three  parallel  streets,  connected  by  steep  side-streets.  The  houses  are 
mostly  low  and  unpainted  wooden  buildings,  crowding  out  on  the  side- 
walks, and  the  general  appearance  is  that  of  j)overty  and  thriftlessness. 
Even  the  wealthy  merchants  generally  occnjjy  hons<?s  far  beneath  their 
station,  since  they  seem  to  regard  Newfoundland  as  a  place  to  get  for- 
tunes in  and  then  retire  to  Kngland  to  make  their  homes.  This  prin- 
ciple was  universally  acted  on  in  former  years,  but  latterly  pleasant  villas 
are  being  erected  in  the  suburbs,  and  a  worthier  arcliitectural  apj)earance 
is  desired  and  expected  for  the  ancient  ca[>ital.  Water  Street  is  the  main 
i)usiiiess  thoroughfare,  and  follows  the  curves  of  the  harbor  shore  for  about 
li  M.  Its  lower  side  is  occupied  by  the  great  mcn'can!  He  houses  which 
supply  "  fish-and-fog-land  "  with  provisions,  clothing,  and  household  re- 
(mirementa;  and  the  u|)per  side  is  lined  with  an  alternation  (»f  cheap  shop.s 
and  liipior-saloons.  In  the  N.  part  is  the  Cuatuiu  /louse,  and  near  the  cen- 
tre is  the  spacious  building  of  the  Market-Hall  an  I  the  l*ost-()fiice.  To  the 
S  ,  Water  Street  connects  with  the  causeway  and  hridge  of  boats  which 
crosses  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Admonished  by  several  disastrous  fires, 
the  city  has  caused  Water  St.  to  be  built  upon  in  a  substantial  manner, 
anil  the  st(jres,  though  very  plain,  are  solidly  and  massively  constructed. 

The  Anglican  Cathedral  stands  about  midway  up  the  hill,  over  the 
old  burying-ground.  It  was  |)lanned  by  Sir  Gilljcrt  Scott,  the  most  emi- 
nent British  architect  of  the  present  era,  and  is  in  the  early  English  Gothic 


192       Route  52. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


architecture.  Owing  to  the  inability  of  the  Church  to  raise  sufficient  funds 
(for  the  missions  at  the  outports  demand  all  her  revenues),  the  cathedral 
IS  but  partly  linished,  but  since  1880  much  work  has  bc.'cn  done  upon  it, 
largely  by  li^hermen  volunteers.  The  lofty  prop<M'tions  of  the  interior 
and  the  line  Gothic  colonnades  of  stone  betwi  en  the  nave  and  aisles, 
together  with  the  high  lancet-windows,  form  a  pleasant  picture. 

The  *  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  the  most  stately  building  in  New- 
foundland, and  occupies  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  commanding  a  noble  *  view 
over  the  city  and  harbor  and  adjacent  country,  and  looking  through  the 
Narrows  on  to  the  open  sea.  The  prospect  from  the  cathedral  terrace  on 
a  moonlight  night  or  at  the  time  of  a  clear  sunrise  or  sunset  is  especially 
to  be  commended.  In  the  front  part  of  the  grounds  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
St.  Peter,  and  other  large  statues  are  seen  near  the  building.  The  cathe- 
dral is  an  immense  stone  structure,  with  twin  towers  on  the  front,  and  is 
suiTounded  with  a  long  internal  corridor,  or  cloister.  There  are  no  aisles, 
but  the  whole  building  is  thrown  Into  a  broad  nave,  from  which  the  tran- 
septs diverge  to  N.  and  S.  The  stone  of  which  it  is  constructed  was 
brought  from  Conception  Ba}'  and  from  Dunlenr}-,  Ireland,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  by  the  free  and  voluntary  labors  of  the  people.  Clustered 
about  the  cathedral  are  the  Bishop's  Palace,  the  convent  and  its  schools, 
and  St.  Bonnventiire* s  Coller/e  (5  i)r(tfessors),  where  the  missionaries  are 
disciplined  and  the  Catholic  youth  are  taught  in  the  higher  branches  of 
learning 

Catholicism  was  founded  on  the  island  by  Sir  George  Calvert  (see  Route  54)  and 
by  the  Bisliop  of  Quebec  ;  suffered  pen-ecution  from  1702  to  1784,  when  all  priests 
were  banislied  (though  some  returned  in  disguise) ;  and  afterwjirds  giiined  the  chief 
power  as  n.  eon.-equence  of  Irisii  inuiiigratiou,  upon  which  the  bishops  lecfiu.e  arro- 
gant and  autocratic,  and  the  Provime  was,  practically,  governed  from  Cathedral 
Hill.  The  grwit  pile  of  religious  buildings  then  erected  on  this  commanding  height 
cost  over  $500,0(i0,  and  the  present  revenues  of  tlie  di(K'e.-e  are  princely  in  amount, 
being  collected  by  the  priests,  who  board  the  arriving  fishing-vcspels  and  assess  their 
people.    The  Irish  Catholics  fonn  a  great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John^s. 

Near  the  cathedral  are  the  old  barnicks  of  the  Royal  Newfoundland 
Companies  and  the  garrisons  from  the  British  army.  The  Military  Road 
runs  along  the  crest  of  the  heights,  and  aflbrds  pleasant  views  over  the 
harbor.  On  this  road  is  the  Colonial  Building,  a  substantial  structure 
of  gray  stone,  well  retired  from  the  carrlngc-wny,  and  adorned  with  a 
massive  portico  of  Doric  columns  upholding  a  pediment  which  is  occupied 
bv  the  Rt)val  Arms  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  The  colonial  logishiture 
meets  in  this  building,  and  occu|)ies  plain  but  comfortable  halls.  The 
Governnn'nt  Jlovse  is  N.  of  the  ColoMial  iiuiUling,  autl  is  the  oflicial  ni;;n- 
Biou  of  the  govcriu)r  of  the  Province. 

It  was  built  in  1828-30,  and  cost  $;240.0;)0  The 
Bur'ouudiu}^'  grounds  are  pleasantly  diversified  with  groves,  flower-beds, 
and  walks,  and  are  much  visited  by  the  aristocracy  of  8t.  John's,  during 
the  sliort  but  brilliant  summer  season. 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


Route  52.      193 


ficient  funds 
le  cathedral 
me  upon  it, 
the  interior 
!  and  aisles, 
e. 

ding  in  New- 
noble  *  view 
T  through  the 
al  terrace  on 
is  especially 
ssal  statue  of 
.    The  calhe- 
;  front,  and  is 
are  no  aisles, 
lich  the  tran- 
istructed  was 
and  the  wall*^ 
le.    Clustered 
nd  its  schools, 
issionaries  are 
er  branches  of 

■e  Route  54)  and 
when  all  priests 
giiinod  the  chief 
ips  Vecin-e  arro- 

froni  Cathedral 
iniiinding  height 
ircly  in  amount, 

and  assess  their 

St.  John's. 

"Newfoundland 
\M Hilary  Road 
i'iews  over  the 
iitial  structure 
[lorned  with  a 
|ch  is  occupied 
tiial  legislature 
lie  halls.  The 
|o  ollicial  ni:iU- 

1240.000  The 
Is,  ilower-be<ls, 
Ijuhu's,  during 


Passing  out  through  the  poor  suburb  called  "  Maggotty  Cove,"  a  walk 
of  about  20  minutes  leads  to  the  top  of  *  Signal  Hill. 

"  High  above,  on  our  r.,  a  ruined  monolith,  on  a  mountain-peik  (Crow'g  Nest), 
Diaries  the  site  of  an  old  battery,  while  to  the  1.,  sunk  in  a  hollow,  a  blaek  bog  lies 
sheltei'ed  amid  the  bare  bon;s  of  mother  earth,  here  mainly  foinpo.sed  of  dark  red 
sandstones  and  conglomerite,  p  i.ssing  down  by  regular  gradations  to  the  slate  below. 
A  sudden  turn  of  tlie  ro.id  reve.iLs  a  deep  solitary  tarn,  some  3)0  ft  above  the  sea, 
in  which  the  guardian  rocks  reflect  their  purple  faces,  and  where  tlie  ripple  of  tlio 
muskrat,  hurrying  across,  alone  'listurbs  tlie  placiJ  surface.  We  piuss  a  hideous- 
looking  barrack,  and,  crossing  the  soft  velvety  sward  on  the  crest,  reach  a  little  but- 
tery, from  the  parapets  of  which  we  look  down  down,  almost  5<X)  ft.  pt-rpendicu- 
larly,  right  into  '  the  Narrows,"  the  strait  or  creek  between  the  hills  connecting  the 
broad  Atlantic  with  the  oval  harbor  within  The  great  south-side  hills,  covered 
with  luxuriant  wild  vegetation,  and  skeined  with  twisting  torrents,  loom  across  the 
strait  so  close  that  one  might  f  incy  it  almost  possible  a  stone  could  tiy  from  the 
hand  to  the  opposite  shore  On  our  left  the  vast  ocean,  with  nothing  —  not  a  rock 
—  between  us  and  Galway ;  on  our  right,  "t  the  other  end  of  the  narrow  neck  of 
water  directly  bene.ith,  the  inner  bx-nn,  expanding  towards  the  city,  with  t  le  biick- 
ground  of  blue  hills  as  a  setting  to  the  pictun*,  broken  only  in  their  continuous  out- 
line by  the  twin  towers  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  ever  thus  frcim  all  points  perform- 
ing their  mission  of  conspiouity.  Riglit  below  us,  4(X)  ft.  perpendicular,  we  lean 
over  the  grass  parapet  and  look  carefully  down  into  the  little  battery  guarding  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  entering-strait,  where,  in  the  old  wars,  heavy  chains  stretched 

from  shore  to  shore The  Narrows  are  full  of  fisijing-boats  returning  with  the 

silver  spoils  of  the  diy  glistening  in  the  hold  of  the  smacks,  which,  to  the  number 
of  forty  or  fifty  at  a  time,  tack  and  fill  like  a  tleet  of  white  swans  against  the  western 
evening  breeze.  Even  as  we  look  down  on  the  decks,  they  come,  and  still  t!iey  come, 
round  the  bluff  point  of  Fort  Amherst,  from  the  bay  outside."   (Lt.-t'oi..  McCrea.) 

"After  dinner  we  set  off  for  Signal  Hill,  the  grand  observatory  ol  the  country, 

both  by  nature  and  art Little  rills  rattled  by  ;  paths  wound  among  rocky 

notches  and  grassy  chrisms,  and  led  out  to  dizzy  '  over-looks  ■  and  '  short-offs.'  The 
town  with  its  thousand  smokes  sat  in  a  kind  of  amphitl>eatre,  and  seemed  to  eiyoy 

the  spectacle  of  sails  a  d  colors  in  the  harbor We  struck  into  a  fine  military 

road,  and  passed  spacious  stone  barracks,  soldiers  and  soldiers"  f  imilies,  goats  and 
little  gardens.  From  the  observatory,  situated  on  the  craggy  |)eninHulu.  both  the 
rugged  interior  and  the  expanse  of  ocean  were  before  us."'   (Noble.) 


••  Britoner.  et  Nonnani  anno  a  Oiiisto  nato  MCCCCCIIII.  has  terras  invfnere^^ ; 
and  In  August,  1527,  14  sail  of  Norman,  Breton,  and  l*ortugue>e  vessels  were  shel- 
tered in  the  harbor  of  St.  .John's.  In  1542  the  Sieur  de  Roberval,  Viceroy  of  New 
France,  entered  here  with  3  ships  and  200  colonists  bound  for  Quetier.  He  found  17 
vessels  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  soon  afterward  there  arrived  . I acijnes  Cartier 
and  the  Quebec  colonists,  discouraged,  and  returning  to  France  Kolterval  ordered 
him  back,  but  he  stole  out  of  the  harbor  during  the  darkness  of  night  and  returned 
to  France  A  few  years  later  the  harbor  was  visited  by  the  exploring  ship  Mary  of 
Guil/orrl,  and  the  reverend  Canon  of  St  Paul,  who  had  undertaken  the  unpriestly 
function  of  a  diseoverer,  sent  hence  a  chronicle  of  the  voyage  to  Cardinal  Wolsey. 

In  August,  1583,  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  (see  p  ige  13"))  entered  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  with  a  Heet  consisting  of  the  D  Uiihl,  GoUhn  Hi  ml,  Swnllow.  and  Squirrel. 
He  took  formal  possession  of  the  port  and  of  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  r»;ceiving 
the  obedience  of  3(5  ship-masters  then  in  the  harbor.  Hut  the  adventurous  mari- 
ners were  discontented  with  tlie  rudeness  of  the  country,  antl  the  h'arned  Parme- 
nius  wrote  back  to  Hakluyt ;  "  My  good  Hakluyt,  of  the  manner  of  this  country 
what  shall  I  say,  when  I  see  nothing  but  a  very  wilderiii'sse.*"  In  view  of  the  date 
of  Gilbert's  occupation,  Newfoundland  claims  the  proud  distinction  of  b<>ing  the 
most  ancient  colony  of  the  Hritish  Enijnre.  In  15H4  St.  .lohn's  was  "i«^ited  by  the 
tleet  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  which  had  swept  the  adjacent  seas  and  left  a  line  of  burn- 
ing wrecks  behind. 

In  1696  the  town  was  so  strongly  guarded  that  it  easily  repulsed  the  Chevalier 
Nesmond,  who  attacked  it  with  ten  French  men-of-war.  The  expedition  of  the 
daring  Iberville  was  more  successful,  and  occupied  the  place.    In  November,  1704, 


194      Route  52. 


ST.    JOHN'S. 


I,    I 

j    f 

I!       i 


a  fleet  fW>iu  Quebec  landed  a  French  and  Indian  force  at  IMaccntia,  T7hence  they 
advanced  about  the  middle  of  .lanuary.  They  were  about  4(>0  sfroiig,  and  cioHKed 
the  IVninsula  of  Avitlon  on  fin»)w-Hh(H'i*.  The  town  of  Hay  WwWn  ^  Uthoultt)  surren- 
dered oi  their  iippnuich,  and  a  lon^  and  painful  niidwinter  march  cn.vui  d,  over  the 
uiountaMi^  and  tlirouKli  tlic  dt  cp  huowM.  The  Frcncli  Uiiiifia  of  IMai  rntia  \n«  re  M'ut 
in  at  dawn  to  surprise  tlie  fort  at  St.  Jolni's,  but  could  not  enter  the  woiks  tor  lack 
of  Kcalin^-ladderH  ;  so  they  contented  theniKclvrs  with  oc<up.\inn  the  town  and 
Quiddy  Viddy.  The  fi»t  was  now  bei^icj^ed  for  33  days,  in  a  Kcnson  of  inten^e  (old, 
when  even  the  harbt»r  was  frozen  over;  but  the  hn^li^h  held  out  valiantly,  and 
showered  balls  and  bouibs  upon  the  town,  finally  succeeding  in  dislodging  the  en- 
emy and  putting  thcni  in  full  retreat. 

In  .lune,  I7»»2,  the  Count  d'ilausonville  entend  the  Hay  Bulls  with  a  poweiful 
French  Ih'ct,  couKi.^tting  ol  the  Jiobiniie,  74;  L'Kviilli,  (i4  ;  Ln  (inroniie,  44;  and 
Lm  Lirorne,  30.  lie  escorted  several  transports,  whence  l,f>(Rl  Ktldicrs  were  landed. 
This  force  marched  on  St.  JohnV,  which  surrendered  on  summons,  together  with 
the  English  frigate  (ininimont.  Lord  Colville's  licet  hastened  up  from  Halifax  and 
bkx-kiuUHl  A(h)iiral  IH'  Tcrnay  in  the  harbor  of  St.  .John,  while  land  forces  were  de- 
barked at  Torbay  and  Quithly  Viddy.  The  last-named  deUichnient  (Hoyal  An  eri- 
oans  an«l  Highlanders)  proceeded  to  storm  the  works  on  Signal  Hill,  but  tlie  French 
fought  desperately,  and  held  tlum  at  bay  until  the  EngMsh  forces  from  Torbaj»  came 
in  and  succieded  in  carrying  the  entile  line  of  heights.  Jn  the  nean  time,  a  dense 
fog  Inul  settled  over  the  coast,  ujider  who.»^e  |»rotwtion  De  Ternay  led  his  s(|uadron 
through  the  Hritisli  line  of  blockade,  and  gained  the  open  sea.  In  ITiHi  a  formidable 
French  tltn't,  under  Admiral  Uichery  (consisting  of  7  lin<  -of-buttie  ships  and  several 
frigatt's),  menaced  St.  .lohn's,  then  commanded  by  Admiral  Sir  James  Wallace. 
Strong  l)atteries  were  erected  along  the  Narrows;  fire-t. hips  were  drawn  up  in  the 
harbor;  a  chain  was  stretched  across  the  entrance;  and  the  entire  body  of  the 
people  wa.s  «alled  under  arms.  The  hostile  fleet  blockaded  the  port  for  many  days, 
but  was  kept  at  bay  by  the  batteries  on  Signal  Hill ;  and  after  an  inetlectual  attempt 
at  attiick,  sai!«'d  away  to  the  S.  Feb.  12,  ISlti,  a  disastrous  fire  occurred  at  St. 
John's,  by  which  1,5(50  persons  were  left  honseless  ;  and  great  suffering  would  have 
ensued  had  it  not  b(H>n  for  the  citizens  of  lioston,  who  despatched  a  ship  loaded  with 
provisions  and  clothing  for  gratuitous  distribution  among  the  inipoverislied  people. 
Nov  7,  1817,  another  terrible  fire  occurred  here,  by  whi(  h  ;§!  2,000,000  worth  of 
property  was  destroyed;  and  tliis  was  fctllowed,  within  2  wtcks,  by  a  third  dis- 
astrous confiagratioii.  This  succession  of  calamities  came  near  resulting  in  tlie 
abandonment  of  the  colony,  and  the  jM'ople  wer»'  goaded  by  hunger  to  a  succes.>-'oa 
of  .leeds  of  crin.e  and  to  organized  violations  of  the  laws.  In  1S26  the  fir."t  highway 
was  built  (from  St.  .John's  t(»  Portugal  Oovei  ;  in  1F33  the  first  hcs.^-ion  of  the  t  olonial 
Parliament  wius  held  ;  and  the  first  steamship  in  the  Newfoundland  waters  arrived 
here  in  1S40. 

In  1800  the  city  was  convulsed  by  a  terrible  riot,  arising  from  politico-religious 
causes,  and  thre:itening  wide  ruin.  An  inunense  mob  of  armed  Irishmen  attacked 
and  pillaged  the  stores  on  Water  St.,  and  filled  the  lower  town  with  rapine  and  rob- 
bery. The  ancient  organization  called  the  Koyal  Newfoundland  Con  panics  was 
ordereti  out  and  posted  near  the  Market  House,  where  the  troops  suffered  for  liours 
the  gibes  of  the  phmderers,  until  they  were  fired  upon  In  the  twilight,  when 
they  returned  a  point-blank  volley,  which  caused  a  sad  carnage  in  the  insurgent 
crowd.  Then  the  great  Cathedral  bells  rang  out  wildly,  and  summoned  all  the 
110101*8  to  that  building,  where  the  Bishop  exhorted  them  to  peace  and  forbearame, 
under  pain  of  excommunication.  After  a  reunirkable  interview,  the  next  day,  be- 
tween the  Bishop  and  Gov.  Sir  Alexander  Bannerman,  this  tragical  revolt  was 
ended. 

In  1870  St.  John's  had  21  sailing-vessels  and  6  steamers  engaged  in  the  sealing 
business,  and  their  crews  amounted  to  1084  men.  In  18(39  (the  latest  accessible 
statistics)  088  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of  lO'.>,043  tons,  and  employing  .5,4t)G  men,  en- 
tered this  port ;  and  in  the  same  year  there  were  cleared  hence  677  vessels,  with 
4.987  men. 

St.  John's  has  4  foundries,  3  biscuit  bakeries,  2  tobacco  factories,  a  nail  fiictory ,  a 
shoe  factory,  :i  rope- walk,  and  one  of  the  finest  graving  docks  iu  tue  world. 

The  new  railroad,  the  first  to  he  built  iu  Newfoundland,  now  runs  troni  St.  John's 
to  Uol^rood,  06  M.,  aud  to  Harbor  Grace,  80  M.,  and  t;arboue.ir,  y3  M.  It  is  l>eing 
built  by  a  New-York  company,  aud  will  be  extended  as  vapidl>  as  possible  to  tue 
copper-uiiues  at  Hall  s  hay,  310  M.  distant,  oMeuiiig  up  a  vaiuaLiie  nduiug  aud  fiU'ui- 
iug  couutry.  It  will  cost  !i?  3,0(X),tA(M,  and  the  contpany  receives  a  subsidy  o' 
%  186,000  tt  year  for  36  years,  a-jd  a  hiud-graut  oi  1  ,.00,0UU  acres. 


PORTUGAL  COVE. 


Route  63.       195 


,  \7hence  tlify 

I,  and  no»«)d 
boullt)  surien- 
iMii  (I,  ()V«T  the 
utia  \N»  ro  wnt 
wdiks  t(ir  lack 
{\\v.  town  and 
if  intvuM-  (Old, 
valiantly,  and 
lodging  thf  cn- 

itli  a  powoiful 
nnuifi,  44  ;  and 
IS  wert'  landt'd. 
,  totrttluT  with 
tni  llalitax  and 

forces  were  de- 

(Hoyal  An  fri- 
l)Ut  tlif  French 
ini  Torba}  cunie 
in  tinu'.adfose 
d  his  squadron 
iW)  a  formidable 
liips  and  several 
James  Wallace, 
rawn  up  in  the 
in>  body  of  the 

for  many  days, 
jnectual  attempt 

occurred  at  St. 
rinj?  would  have 
ship  loaded  with 
iverished  people. 
UO.UOO  worth  of 

by  a  third  dis- 
resultinp!  in  the 
r  to  a  sueeesj-'on 

le  tir^t  highway 

1  of  the  Colonial 
j  waters  arrived 

politico-religious 
shmen  attacked 
rapine  and  rob- 

Con  panies  wiis 
ilTercd  for  hours 

twilight,  when 
n  the  insurgent 
mmoned  all  the 
md  forbearanie, 
u>  next  day,  be- 
gical  revolt  waH 

I  in  the  sealing 

latest  accessible 

g  5,460  men.  en- 

77  vespelp,  with 

a  nail  factory ,  a 

world. 

troni  St.  John's 
i  .M.  It  is  being 
s  possible  to  tiie 

lining  and  litrui- 
es  u  subisidy  oi 


53.   The  Environs  of  St  John's. 

"  On  either  sidR  of  the  city  of  St.  John's,  stretrhlng  hi  a  snmirirrla  alnnfi;  the  rug- 
ged coast,  at  an  average  radjus  from  the  centre  f)f  7  or  K  M.,  u  inunt)pr  »f  IJttlo  flsh- 
ing-coves  or  bays  attriu-t,  during  thn  sweet  and  cnjoyabU?  summer,  all  {Mirsons  who 
can  command  tlie  ui*v  of  a  horse  to  revel  in  their  beauties.  l-^Mh  llttlu  bay  is  but  a 
slice  of  the  high  cliffy  scooped  out  by  the  friction  of  the  mighty  pressure  of  tl|e  At- 
lantic waves  ;  and  loading  down  to  its  shingled  beiurh,  each  bo.ists  of  a  lovely  gnn^n 
valley  through  which  iiif  illib)y  a  tumbling  noisy  trout-burn  pours  back  the  Wfttvra 
evaponited  from  tho  parent  surfac**."     (i/r  -<'oi,.  M(;(!iika  ) 

The  country  about  the  capital  is  not  naturally  productive,  but  has  l>een  made  to 
bring  forth  fruit  and  vegetables  by  careful  lalior,  and  iiow  supiwrts  a  considerable 
farming  population.  The  roa«lM  are  fln(>,  being  for  the  most  part  ni)ic>ulamiz(Hi  and 
free  from  mud  3  M.  beyond  the  city  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  pleasantly  situated  in 
a  small  forest. 

Quiddy-  Viddy  Lake  is  frc(|ncntlv'  vi.site*!  by  the  people  of  St.  John's. 
The  favorite  drive  is  to  Portugal  Cove,  over  u  road  that  ha.s  been  do*- 
scribed  us  possessing  o,  "sad  and  desolate  l)eauty."  This  road  passes  the 
Windaor  Lake,  or  Tweiity-.Milo  Fotjd,  "a  large  picturesque  bheet  of  water, 
with  some  pretty,  lonely-looking  Islands."  Tho  inn  at  Portugal  Cove 
looks  out  on  a  handsome  cascade,  and  is  a  favoritt;  goal  for  wedding-tours 
from  St.  John's.     Hargcs  run  from  St.  John's  to  Topsail. 

•*  The  scenery  about  Portiigal  ('ovo  well  repays  the  ride  of  nearly  JO  M.  on  a  good 
road  from  St.  John's,  It  is  wildly  romantic,  and  just  befon;  entering  tho  village  Ik 
very  beautiful.  A  succession  of  lofty  hills  on  eich  side  tower  over  tin;  road,  and 
shut  out  everything  but  their  conical  or  ni)>nunillated  peaks,  covered  with  wild 
stunted  forest  and  bold  miisses  of  rock,  bre.iking  througli  with  a  tiny  waterfill  from 
the  highest,  which  in  winter  hangs  down  in  periKJUdicular  ridges  of  yellow  ice. 
Turning  sudilenly  out  of  one  of  the  wildest  scenes,  you  cross  a  little  bridge,  and  the 
romantic  .scattereil  village  is  hanging  over  the  abrupt  rocky  shorn,  with  its  flsh'tlakes 
and  busy  little  anchorage  open  to  the  f-ight,  clo.sed  in  the  distance  by  tho  shores  of 
Conception  Hay,  lofty  and  blue,  part  of  which  arc  concealed  by  the  picturesque  Belle 
Isle.''    (Sir  11.  IJonnycastl  ;.) 

*'  On  approaching  Portugal  Cove,  the  oy«  U  .".truck  by  the  .serrateij  and  picturesque 
outline  of  the  hills  which  run  along  the  coast  from  it  to.vards  Cape  St.  Francis, 
anil  presently  delighted  with  the  wil(l  Iwauty  of  thtf  little  v.illey  or  glen  at  the  mouth 
of  rt  lich  the  cove  is  situated.  The  road  winds  with  several  turns  down  the  side  of 
the  valley,  Into  which  some  small  brooks  hurry  their  waters,  tl;ishing  in  the  sun- 
shine as  they  leap  over  the  rocks  and  down  the  ledges,  through  the  dark  green  of 
the  wood'^.  On  turning  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hill-slopes,  the  view  opens  upoa 
Conception  Bay,  with  tUu  rocky  points  of  the  cove  immudiately  below."  (Paor. 
Juk;s.) 

Another  favorite  excursion  is  to  Viryinia  Water,  the  fornjer  summer 
residence  of  the  governors  of  Nev^oundlund.  It  is  reached  bv  wav  of 
the  King's  Bridge  and  the  pretty  little  Quiddy-Viddy  Lake,  beyond  which 
the  liallyhaly  Bog  is  crossed,  and  the  carriage  reaches  the  secluded  d(jmaiii 
of  Virginia  Water.  It  is  situated  oij  a  l)Gaut:l'ul  hiko  of  deep  water,  3  M. 
in  circumference,  "  indented  with  little  grass-edged  bays,  fringcil  and 
feathered  to  the  limj)id  edge  with  dark  dense  woods."  Beyond  this  point 
the  drive  nniy  be  protra(;ted  to  Loyie  IJay,  a  small  cove  between  projecting 
clilTs,  with  bold  iind  striking  shore  scenery.  Logic  Bay  i.s  4  M.,  and  Tor- 
bay  is  8-9  M.  from  St.  John's,  by  a  fine  road  which  crosses  tho  high  and 
mossy  barrens,  and  affords  broad  sea-views  from  the  cliffs.  Thq  country 
is  thinly  settled,  and  is  crossed  by  severa)  trout'brooks. 


•V.' 


I! 


1 96      Route  54. 


TORBAY 


Lofi^e  Bay  \»  remarkable  for  the  wildness  of  its  rock  and  cliff  8renery.  "  Nothing 
like  a  beach  is  to  be  found  anywhere  on  this  coast,  the  Jescent  to  the  sea  being 
always  difficult  and  generally  ini practicable.  In  Logic  Hay  the  thick-bedded  dark 
saudHtoneH  and  conglomerates  stand  bold  and  bare  in  round-topjH'd  hilln  and  preci- 
pices 3-4<X)  ft.  in  height,  with  occa.vional  fissures  traversing  their  jagged  cliffs, 
and  the  boiling  waves  ot"  the  Atlantic  curling  around  their  feet  in  white  eddies  or 
leaping  against  their  sides  with  huge  spouts  of  fuaui  antl  spray."    (Prof.  Jukes.) 

"Torbay  is  an  arm  of  the  .-ea.  —  a  short,  strong  arm  with  a  slim  hand  and  finger, 
reaching  into  the  rocky  land  and  ttiuohing  the  waterfalls  and  rapids  of  a  pretty 
brook.  Here  is  a  little  village,  with  Iloniish  auid  ProU'stant  steeples,  and  the  dwell- 
ings of  fishermen,  with  the  universal  appendages  of  fishing-houses,  boats,  and  Hakes. 
One  seldom  looks  upon  a  hamlet  so  plcturescjue  and  wild."  On  the  N.  shore  of  the 
bay  is  a  long  Une  of  clilTs,  3-400  ft.  high,  surf-beaten  and  majestic,  and  finely 
ol'served  by  taking  a  boat  out  from  Torbay  and  coasting  to  the  N  "At  one  point, 
when;  the  rocks  recetle  from  the  main  front  and  form  a  kind  of  headland,  the  strata, 
6-8  ft.  thick,  assume  the  form  of  a  pyrannd,  from  a  broad  base  of  a  hundred  yards 
or  more  running  up  to  meet  in  a  point.  The  heart  of  this  vast  cave  has  partly 
&llen  out,  and  left  the  re.>'eniblame  of  an  enormous  tent  with  cavernous  recesses 
and  halls,  in  which  the  shades  of  evening  were  already  lurking,  and  the  surf  was 
sounding  mournfully.  Occasionally  it  was  nmsical,  pealing  forth  like  the  low  tones 
of  a  great  organ  with  awful  solemnity.  Now  and  then,  the  gloomy  silence  of  a  min- 
ute was  broken  by  the  crash  of  a  billow  far  within,  when  the  reverberations  were 
like  the  slamming  of  great  doors." 

"  After  passing  this  grand  .'^^pecimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  sea,  there  appeared 
long  rocky  reaches,  like  Egyptian  temples,  old  dead  cliffs  of  yellowish  gray  checked 
off  by  lines  and  seams  into  squares,  and  having  the  resemblance,  where  "they  have 
fallen  out  into  the  ocean,  of  doors  and  windows  opening  in  upon  the  fresher  stone." 
(Noble.) 

54.  The  Strait  Shore  ;f  Avalon.  — St  John's  to  Cape  Bace. 

That  portion  of  the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  which  fronts  to  the  eastward  on  the 
Atlantic  has  betni  termed  the  Strait  Sliorp,  on  account  of  its  genenUly  undeviating 
line  of  direction.  Its  outsorts  may  be  vi.'^^ited  either  by  the  Friday  mail-con- 
veyance, through  Petty  Harbor,  Bay  Bulls,  Ferry  land,  and  Kenewse,  or  by  the 
Western  Coastal  steamer  (see  Route  fib). 

DistanceH  by  Koad.  —  St.  John's  to  Blackhead,  4  M. ;  Petty  Haibor,  10; 
Bay  Bulls,  19;  Witless  Bav,  22;  Mobile,  24;  Toad  Cove,  26;  La  Manche,  32; 
Brigus,  34;  Cape  Broyle,  38;  Caplin  Cove,  42;  Ferry  land,  44  ;  Aquafort,  48;  Fer- 
meuse,  51 ;  Renewse,  C4  ;  Cape  Race,  64. 

"The  road,  one  of  the  finest  I  ever  saw,  —  an  old-fashioned  English  pravel-road, 
smooth  and  hard  almost  as  iron,  a  very  luxury  for  the  wheels  of  a  springlcss  wagon, 
—  keeps  up  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  a  good-sized  trout-stream,  Howing  from  the  in- 
land valley  into  the  harbor  of  St  John's.  Contrasted  with  the  bold  retiions  that 
Ihjnt  the  ocean,  these  valleys  are  soft  and  fertile.  We  passed  sn  00th  meadows,  and 
sloping  plough-lands,  and  green  pastures,  and  houses  peeping  out  of  pretty  groves. 
One  might  have  called  it  a  Caitadian  or  New-Hampshire  vale."  The  road  pas.'^es 
feveral  lakelets  and  trout-streams,  and  gives  fine  views  of  the  ocean  on  the  1. ,  being 
also  one  of  the  most  smooth  and  firmly  built  of  highways.  "  No  nation  makes  such 
roads  as  these,  in  a  land  bristling  with  rugged  difficulties,  that  has  not  wound  its 
way  up  to  the  sunmiit  of  power  and  cultivation."  The  hills  along  the  coast  closely 
resemble  the  Cordillera^ i>eaks  ;  and  from  the  bald  sunmiits  on  the  \Y.,  Trinity  Bay 
may  be  seen. 

The  mtiil-road  nuining  S.  from  St.  John's  passes  Wuterford  Bridge  and 
soon  approaches  Blackhead,  a  Catholic  village  near  an  iron-bound  shore 
whose  great  clifTs  have  been  worn  into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  crash  and 
attrition  of  the  Atlantic  surge?.  Near  this  place  is  Cape  Spear,  the  most 
easterlj'  point  of  North  America,  1,656  M.  from  Valentia  Bav,  in  Ireland. 
On  the  summit  of  the  cape,  264  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  a  red-and-vvhite  striped 
tower  sustaining  a  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  22  M. 


BAY  BULLS. 


JfovteSl       197 


«•  Nothing 
he  pea  being 
bedded  dark 
»  and  prccl- 
Hggcd  cliffs, 
lite  eddies  or 

F.  JUKKS.) 

d  and  finger, 
i  of  u  prettv 
nd  the  dwell- 
s,  and  tialies. 

Hiiore  of  the 
c.  and  finely 
At  one  point, 
id,  the  strata, 
undred  yards 
ve  liaf«  partly 
nous  recesfos 

the  surf  was 
tlie  low  tones 
?nce  of  a  niin- 
jerations  vrere 

here  appeared 

gray  checlted 

lere  they  have 

fcsher  stone." 


lape  Bace. 

atward  on  the 
ly  undfviating 
iday  mail-con- 
se,  or  by  the 

llaibor,  10; 

Manohe,  32  ; 

liifoit,48;  Fer- 


sh  pravel-rond, 
linglesH  wagon, 
hg  from  the  in- 
|d  rejiions  that 
niondowa,  and 
pretty  groves, 
'he  road  passes 
^n  the  1  ,  being 
on  makes  such 
not  wound  its 
le  coast  closely 
b.,  Trinity  Bay 

1:1  Bridge  and 
Ibound  shore 
(he  crash  and 
^ar,  the  most 
in  Ireland. 
Iwhite  striped 


The  road  now  passes  between  "  woody  banks  running  through  an  un- 
dulating country  but  lialf  reclaimed  on  the  r.,  wliilo  on  the  1.  the  slopes 
ftretch  up  to  the  l)rcczy  lieadlands,  beyond  whicli  tlicro  i?<  notliing  but  sea 
and  cloud  from  this  to  Europe."  Pefty  Ilnrhor  is  4  M.  S.  W.  of  Cape 
Spear  and  10  M.  from  St.  John's,  and  is  a  village  of  900  inhabitants,  with 
a  refinery  of  cod-liver  oil  and  long  lines  of  evergreen  fish-flakes.  Off  this 
point  II.  B.  M.  frigate  Tweed  was  wrecked  in  1814,  and  60  men  were 
drowned.  The  hou.'^cs  of  Petty  Harbor  are  situated  in  a  narrow  glen  at 
the  foot  of  frowning  and  barren  ridges.  The  harbor  at  tho  foot  of  tliia 
ravine  is  small  and  insecure.  The  dark  hills  to  the  W.  attain  a  height  of 
700  ft.  along  the  unbroken  shore  which  leads  S.  to  Bay  Bulls;  and  at 
about  4  M.  from  Pe'ty  Harbor  is  the  *  Spout,  a  deep  cavern  in  tho  sea- 
ward cliffs,  in  whose  top  is  a  hole,  through  which,  at  high  tide  and  in  a 
heavy  sea,  the  water  shoots  up  every  half-minute  in  a  roaring  fountain 
vhich  is  seen  3  M.  off*  at  .sea.  The  road  now  approaches  lonclay  Hill  (810 
ft.  high),  the  chief  elevation  on  this  coast,  and  reaches  Bay  BnUs,  a  village 
of'  30  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  tho  outports,  and 
affords  a  refuge  to  vessels  that  are  unable,  on  account  of  storms  cr  ice,  to 
make  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  There  are  several  farms  near  tho  bay,  but 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  m  the  cod-fishery,  which  is  carried 
on  from  large  open  boats.  This  ancient  settlement  was  exposed  to  great 
vicissitudes  during  the  conflicts  between  tho  French  and  the  English  for 
the  possession  of  Newfoundland,  and  was  totally  destroyed  by  Admiral 
Richery  (French)  in  1796.  Fine  sporting  is  found  in  this  vicinity, all  along 
shore,  and  shooting-parties  leave  St.  John's  during  tho  season  for  several 
days'  adventure  hereabouts. 

In  1696  the  French  flrigates  Pelican,  Diamant,  Count  de  Toulouse,  Vendang^, 
Philippe,  and  Harcourt  met  the  British  man-of-war  Sapphire  off  Cape  Spear,  and 
chased  it  into  Bay  Bulls.  A  naval  battle  of  several  hours'  duration  was  closeid  by 
the  complete  discomfiture  of  the  Briti.sh,  wlio  set  fire  to  the  shattered  Sapphire  and 
abandoned  her.  The  French  sailors  boarded  lier  immediately,  but  were  destroyed 
by  the  explosion  of  the  magazine. 

Witless  Bay  is  the  next  village,  and  has  nearly  1,000  inhabitants,  with  a 
large  and  prominent  Cathol'c  church.  Cod-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent  off  this  shore,  also  ofT  Mobile,  the  next  settlement  to  the  S.  Beyond 
the  rock-bound  hamlets  of  Toad  Cove,  La  Manche,  and  Brigus,  the  road 
reaches  Cape  Broyle. 

In  1628  Capv  Broyle  was  captured  by  Admiral  de  la  Rade,  with  three  French  war- 
vessels,  who  also  took  the  fishlnji-Heet  then  in  the  harbor.  But  Sir  George  Calvert 
sent  from  the  capital  of  Avalon  two  frigates  (one  of  which  carried  24  guns)  and  sev- 
ral  hundred  men,  on  whose  approach  ''  the  French  let  slip  their  cables,  and  made 
o  sea  as  fast  as  they  could."  Calvert's  men  retaliated  by  harrying  the  French 
stations  at  Trcpaasey,  where  they  captured  six  ships  of  Bayonne  and  St.  Jean 
de  Luz. 

Cnpe  Broyle  is  a  prosperous  fishing-settlement  on  Broyle  Harbor,  near 

the  mountainous  headland  of  Cape  Broyle  (652  ft  high).     There  is  good 

salmon-fishing  on  the  river  which  runs  S.  E.  to  the  harbor  from  the  foot 

of  Hell  Hill. 


•M- 


■n;' 


t''.i' 


I  08       noHle  51 


FEUUYLANP 


! 


Ferryland  Ic  2  M.  boyond  tlio  Caplln-O^v  Rottloinont,  imd  In  tlio  cupl- 
tal  of  tlio  (listrU't  of  Korn  IiiikI.  It  liasiibuiit.  l,()(M)iiihal)itMiitH,  and  in  wnli 
liH'utod  on  l(<v(<l  ffi-oinid  iicmi'  the  )it<ad  of  tli<<  IimiIkii'.  In  the  innn<>iliatn 
vifinily  aro  scvi-ral  |>n)sjH'n)\is  tarins,  and  piftiin'S(|ti(<  scrncrv  sinr<»niidH 
tho  harbor  on  all  nidcs.  To  tla^  S.  10.  is  I-'cnvlMnd  Head,  on  which  is  u 
llxod  whito  li^ht,  200  \\.  abovi<  tlu'  sea,  and  visildo  tor  1«»  M.  OH*  this  point 
nro  tho  sliMuliM*  spin's  of  ro(d\  failed  tho  J/iire\<<  J\tir»,  projecting  (Voni  tho 
Roa  to  tho  height  of  f)0  n. 

In  l<i1 1  (l(il!!2)  Kiiip;  .Iimiuvh  1  ^rnntiM]  t]ii<  ^rciit  |i«>nh)Hulii  Imtwoon  Trinity  niid 
IMariMitiii  \h\\!*  to  Sir  (Icnrne  ('nlvnl,  tlu>ii  Scnrtiiry  «i|"  Sliitr.  Tln'  xrnnlcr  iiiiiihiI 
]\\n  now  (loMiitin  A  Villon,  in  lienor  of  the  disd  let  where  (Mu'lstian  triKllMeii  eInlniM 
tlutt  Mio  Oospel  \va.M  first  |in>iielie(l  in  Itriliiin  (llie  preHenl  ()lll^tonl)Ury).  It  \mih  de- 
|ii)tnetl  to  t'onnd  liere  ii  Cltristiun  eolenv,  uKli  (he  ItreiKlest  prineiplcH  of  toleriilioii 
and  elnu'ity,  fnlvt-rt  hcnt  out  ii  eonsideriilile  eenipiiny  of  bettlerw, under  tlie  novern- 
luent  of  ('apt.  Wynne,  and  u  eolonv  was  planted  nt.  Kerryland.  Tlio  repurtH  nmt 
htwk  to  I<inp;huid  eoneernin^  tlie  foil  and  produ«  tionH  of  tlie  new  eountry  were  ho 
favorahle  tliat  Sir  (ieerjre  Calvert  and  bin  family  soon  joined  the  rolnnlNtH.  Under 
liio  adndnistration  an  ecinitahle  ((overnnient  was  eNtahliNhed,  fortitlea tionH  went 
etveted,  and  other  ini]U'oveui«>nts  iiisHtuted.  Lord  Italliuii  re  liad  hut  little  pleanure 
of  his  .M'ttlenient  in  Avalen.  He  fountl  that  he  luiti  lie«'n  t^reatly  deceived  about  thu 
oliunile  and  the  nature  of  tlu<  M)il.  The  IMiritann  alho  he^an  to  harantt  him  ;  and 
Krasnius  Stoiu'ton,  en'  «if  lluir  ninistcrs,  not  only  preaelied  disHent  under  IiIh  eyen 
at  Kerryland,  l>ut  vtMit  to  Vnjjlaml  and  n'iM»rt«-d  to  the  Privy  t'(iun<il  that  Malti- 
nio<v"H  priests  ^aid  nia.'JS  and  had  "all  the  other  eereinonien  of  MieCliureh  of  Rome, 
in  the  aniplu  manner  as  't  is  used  in  S|)aiu.''  i''inally,  atter  trials  hy  storm  and  Ity 
Hohismalies,  Lord  llallinn  re  died  (in  I»';i*2),  leavinj?  to  his  son  ('eeil,'Ud  I,ord  Balti- 
more, the  honor  «d'foundii  ^r  Maryland,  on  the  >j;rant  already  seeured  from  tlie  kin^ 
111  tlittt  nn>iv  fav(»red  .MUithern  elinie  afterwards  arose  the  meat  «'ity  wliieli  coiii- 
n  eniorates  and  honors  the  i.auie  of  HAiniMnm;. 

In  1(>.'}7  Sir  David  Kirl\««  wasnj>poliited  Count  Palatine  of  NewlbiuidI«nd,andeHtab- 
Pslied  himself  at  KerrUand.  lie  hoisted  the  royal  standard  on  the  forts,  and  main- 
taiiieil  !i  stroll}?  (and  xniu'tin  es  harsli)  rule  over  the  island.  At  the  outbrea)(  of  tho 
Kiijiiish  Kevolution  (1('4*2'),  Kirke's  brothers  joined  Kinjj  Charles's  forees  and  fought 
bravely  through  the  war,  whih'  Sir  Pavid  strengthened  his  Newfoiindlaiul  forts  and 
estjiblished  n  i>owerful  and  \\«  Il-arncd  fleet,  lie  otfered  the  Ivin^  a  safe  asylum  in 
his  »lomaiii  ;  and  the  fiery  ]*rii  t  e  HnjM'rt,  with  the  royal  Channel  fleet,  was  fiailiiiK 
to  Newfoundland  to  join  Kirki's  forees,  when  he  was  liiadeii  oil  by  the  fleet  of  tliu 
Commonwealth,  und«'r  Sir  (5eor>re  Ayseue.  After  the  fall  of  the  Stuarts.  Sir  David 
was  earri«Ml  to  England  in  a  vesstl  of  the  Hepubli*  (in  lt')f)l),  to  Ite  tried  on  variouH 
cbarjres;  but  be  briW'd  CromwelTs  son  in-law,  and  was  released,  returning  to  Kerry- 
land,  wlieiv  be  di»'d  in  h'M,  after  having  governed  the  Island  for  over  20  }ears.  At 
a  later  day  this  town  lH«eaiiie  a  port  of  some  iirp<n'taiire,  and  was  the  seene  of  re- 
VH'Hted  naval  atfjioks  duriiip  the  Freiieh  wars.  In  hu'6  it  was  taken  and  plundered 
by  4  Diiteh  frijtates. 

In  lOlH  Ferrylniid  was  attaekeil  by  2  large  Fniuh  frigates,  carrying  90  guns, 
which  t>iHMied  a  furious  oannonade  on"  the  town.  Hut  the  H''i/linvi  and  Mary,  16, 
was  lying  in  the  liarbor,  with  l>  merchant-ships,  and  their  crews  built  batteries  at 
the  harbor-mouth,  whence,  with  the  guns  of  the  privateer,  tliey  inflicted  such  dam- 
age on  the  enemy  that  they  withdivw,  after  a  f)  hours'  cannonad*',  having  lost 
aUuit  90  men.  In  17<i2  the  powerful  French  fleet  of  Admiral  de  Teruay  wua  driven 
off  by  a  iMitt^ry  on  Itois  Island. 

Atpiofort  lies  S.  W.  of  Kerryland,  and  is  a  small  launlct  sitnated  on  a 
long,  deep,  and  narrow  harbor  ondiosoniod  in  lofty  hills.  The  next  netile- 
ment  x'n  Fermi  use,  with  600  inhabitants  and  a  (■atluilic  cdnirch  and  convent. 
It  is  on  the  shore  of  Adiniral's  Cove,  in  the  deep  and  secure  harbor  of 
Fenneuse,  and  the  people  are  engaged  in  the  cod  and  salmon  fisheries. 
Benewte  is  an  ancient  and  decadent  port  IG  M.  S.  of  FerryUind,  situated  on 


CAI'K   HACK 


rtoute  r,i     1 00 


nn  IridHrpront  liiirln»r  wliU-li  Mom  botwnori  Hiirnt  Point  nw\  UdnnwKn  II«ui(l. 
3-4  M.  itiliiiKl  (irn  Ili«>  ni^^^od  limriinockH  ciillcfl  ilm  I{«.(|  llilh,  wlioiico 
llm  otistiTM  hill  riiri^M  nniH  .'JO  M.  N.  ihtokh  Aviilon  t<»  llolynntd. 

((  R  M.  ri'iin  K«<n<<wm«  urn  Mm  tiill  ntid  MhaKiry  hlllf*  rnlind  Mic  ItiittrrtiolM, 
wliit'li  roiiiliiiiinl  Itroml  virwx  iivi>r  Aviiloii,  iitnl  i'rniii  llav  HiiIIh  to  flic  W.  Hlinrc  or 
Tn'pasHO)  Miiy.  TIm'  lliitrcr|iMfM  nt  llolvnmcl  nrr  uIhh  m«'ii  innii  HiIh  pfiinf  ,  uii<l  J'rof, 
.liiki'H  <<(iuiit<>i|  K()  liik«>M  III  Nielli  fi'oiii  f.li)<  iiialii  |M-iik  (whlrli  Im  Wyf,  ft.  IiIkIi) 

H.  (if  tills  piiliit.  <<xt«>iii|M  II  t'liliil  iroii-liftiiiiil  I'DHMt,  oil  wliii'li  M(on-<  of  v*>hhi-Im,  vcllfd 
ill  llii|M«iiff.nil>lc  ro;<  or  Hwi'|it  inwiinl  by  icHl-MrHs  MtoriiiM,  linvc  Imcii  dii'ilifil  in  picci-H, 
A  vt'ry  Hll)i('tt  <>n'or  In  ifiUoiiliiif  will  Mirow  vcmmi-Im  IiimiihI  M  (>!'  ra|i4-  llai  •■  11(1011  thin 
plum',  mill  tlmii,  If  Mi<'('h|m<  llafc  ninl  Kerry  Idiiil  lUliU  an-  wi.;m|'«"'I  i'l  Mi''  <l«*iii<« 
blink  fo^  piM'iiliiir  U>  Mic-in  wafers,  flic  rlinnrcH  oT  (liHasf^T  arc  it,ifiit .  Tlic  crccfloii 
of  a  r(i((wliiHtU*  on  the  nipn  liax  greatly  IcmhcihmI  the  |m  iIIh  i,t'  navli^ation  hcnv  'I'lio 
cMHiiiii  Hlcti\nH\\\\>»  Aim'o-Sijon,  Ari^it,  nuii  (.'Uf^  a/  I'hilHi/f./pliiii  wt-rw  loHt  on  (lapo 
llacu. 

Cape  Race  in  Mm  S.  10.  point  of  NcyvfotinllMtiil,  ntut  in  fi  ni^r^^d  ImmuI* 
liiiiil  of  liliick  Hluty  rock  tlu'ov\ii  up  in  vorticul  stnitii.  It  in  provided  with 
a  powrrl'nl  Ii^Id,  IHO  ft.  iihovo  tlio  f(;ji,  find  visihlo  ffir  15  M.  'Ilif-  greiit 
polur  ctirnMit  swiu^ps  in  cIoho  by  the  c.npo  iin<l  furn.H  uround  it  to  tlio 
W.  N.  W  ,  fortniii;^,  tof^'otlior  with  tli(!  ordiniiry  tides  and  the  hay-currcntH, 
n  complexity  of  sti-«!iiniH  that  oiuHOH  ninny  wroc-kM. 

IcelMTjifH  iiro  t<»  1)0  MccM  olT  thJH  Hliore  at,  iilinoHfc  all  HcuxoriH,  and  tint  <lcnK«  fo(^  anj 
often  illiiiiiincd  by  tlic  |M'ciiliiir  wlilfc  f^iiiro  wlilcli  prccclcM  tlicni.  Ficld-icc  Im  alHo 
coniinon  here  diiriii;;  tlic  Hpriiij^  and  i;arly  Hiiiniiicr,  t>iit  i-i  easily  avoided  by  the 
wariiiii|(  of  the  "ice  Itliiik/'  Tlirouj^lionf.  flio  Hiiiniiier  i;nd  initniiiri  the  fo(^  brMtdn 
ovepthlH  .-lifire  iiliiioKt,  ince'<Maiitly,  and  vcsMelH  am  navi((ateil  by  c-astintj  the  |ca/|  and 
followtnt;  the  Hoiiiidiiif^H  which  are  iiuirkcil  out  with  Kiich  prerlMirtn  on  the  Adii.i- 
raltv  chartH.  <1  M  K.  of  ("a|i«'  Itice  \a  Mic  ItuUnnl  Hnnk,  which  is  IH  M.  |r)ng  ami 
ti-  12  M,  wide,  with  a  depth  of  wafer  of  1',    2*\  fathoniH 

(!ape  Itice  Is  diHfant,  by  >trcat,-<'irrle  Hailing,  from  New  Vork,  1,010  M.  :  fJoMton, 
820;  Portland,  77'.>;  St.  .I«»hn,  N.  H.  715;  Halifax,  4'«;  Minuiilchl,  4'J2  ;  Quebec, 
mi;  Oap«  Cloar,  1,713;  Ualway,  1,721 ;  Liverpool,  1,970. 

The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland  aro  id»oitt  r>0  M.  K.  ofCupf!  Race. 
Tliey  ext(Mid  for  4  deji^njcs  N.  find  S.  and  5  decrees  E.  and  W.  (at  45°  N. 
latitude)  runninf^  S.  to  a  point.  I'liey  eon^i-^t  of  viist  fiihrnor^ed  Hand- 
bunks,  on  Nvliieli  the  water  is  from  .30  to  GO  fathoms  deej*,  iind  aro  Ktrown 
with  shells.  Here  jire  found  innurneralde  codfish,  generally  m;cui»ying 
the  shallower  waters  over  the  sandy  bottoms,  jind  feeding  on  tho  hIiouIh  of 
smaller  fish  below.  They  [lass  out  into  the  dce[)er  waters  late  in  Novem- 
ber, but  return  to  the  Hanks  in  Februjiry,  and  fatten  rapidly.  Iinmenso 
fleets  are  cngfif^ed  in  the  fisheries  here,  and  it  is  estimated  that  over 
100,000  men  aro  dependent  on  this  industry. 

ThrouRhout  a  preat  part  of  tho  Hprinpf,  smnmer,  and  fall,  tho  Grand  Banks  are 
covered  by  rarely  broken  foj;H,  through  \vhi(-h  falls  an  ahuost  incessant;  plow  rain. 
Soinctiiiiea  these  fogs  aro  so  denso  that  objects  v»lthiri  W  It.  are  totally  invi.-ibjc,  ut 
v.hich  times  tho  lishing-vcss<>lH  at  anchor  aro  liable  to  bo  run  down  by  tlie  great 
Atlantic  steamers.  Tho  d'lngorous  pro.xiniity  of  iccl>ergs  (whicli  drift  across  and 
ground  on  tho  Hanks)  is  indicated  hy  tho  sudden  anrl  intonso  coldness  wliich  they 
pond  throug'.i  oven  a  midsummer  day,  by  tho  poculiar  white  glare  in  tho  air  about 
them,  auJ  by  tbo  roaring  of  tho  breakers  on  their  tides, 

It  waa  on  tho  Grand  Banks,  not  far  fi-om  Cape  Race,  that  the  first  battle  of  the 
Seven  Years'  War  waa  fouglit.    June  8, 1755,  the  Uritish  00-gun  frigates  Dunkirk 


■v.   ,1 


i 


1 


200       tioufr 


thi. 


TIIIO  (JIIANI)   HANKS. 


and  Definnrf  wrrp  rnilMiiK  nhont.  In  n  iU>nnr>  fog,  wlicii  tlipy  nipt  the  Frrnrli  tnAn>nf- 
mw  Al'ntf  Mui  I.ux.  For  fivo  ItiuirH  ihv  l)iiltl«>  oniiiltiiu>i|,  nml  n  nuidtiiiiil  rAn< 
nonmlo  wns  ki'pt  np  )>i't\v«M»n  the  lmf<fili>  i«lil|in.  Tl>r  liriirh  wen-  nvi'iifliiJclnMl,  liiit 
fought  vtilliiiillv,  inllirtin^  l\i>itvv  losioon  tin  tli«>  nxNiilliintM  (llio  Ihntktrk  tiluiir  lost  iM) 
uion).  Wl)«>n  tlioy  Ihiiill.v  r<iin-«>iiil<>n>il,  Ww  l.ys  nvhs  IoiiikI  Io  rmitnin  #4lN),(l(K)  in 
djMM'lo  nn*l  S  i<oni|miiii"'  nrinrantrv. 

Tho  virliiltv  (»f  ('mw  limp  wim  Idi-  muno  tHne  the  cruiKtiiK-Krounil  «»f  Mir  U.  H. 
fyignto  Conflitnliiui,  ill  tSt2,  iind  In  tlu>M<  \viit«<rH  kIi«<  <<ti)iturvil  Mi<>  /ir/Moia,  (lie  /|r/r- 
/iVk,  iind  oHuT  vessels 

N«M»r  tlH<  e.lg.'  «l  the  Onnxi  I»niik  (in  liit,  41"  41'  N  ,  hnig  nfi"  18'  W  )  nernrrni 
tho  t'i«nu>n«  seik-ll)i;ht  lietweeii  the  Coii.stiliilion  iinil  the  (iuirtn^rr,  wluiHe  renult  llMerl 
the  llniteil  Sintes  \vitl»  i-ejuicliig,  timi  iin|>iitreil  the  preHtlne  nf  the  llrlliHh  niivv.  <hi 
the  rtnenioon  of  Aug  ll>,  ISI'J,  the  t'on.\tilittioit  ninhleil  the  (Stirrrihf,  iiikI  hor« 
down  upon  her  with  ilo\il»le-nhotteil  hatlerles.  Tlie  Ilrltifh  nliip  wiim  r<onie\vhiit.  In- 
ft»Hor  in  foive,  l)nt  attnol<e»l  the  Aniericnii  with  the  eoiilMeiireiir  virtorv.  Tlir  (Vm- 
ftitution  iveeivetl  seveinl  liroiulMl«le»  in  nilenee,  luit  when  wltliin  liitif  pistnl-nhut  din- 
chnrgiMl  lier  ttvinendonw  hHlterieM,  nml  followed  with  sneli  ii  lire  of  deiidly  preelwlon 
tlmt  the  (iurrrt^rf  wan  noon  left  a  disniast«'d  and  »h!itter«Ml  wreck.  The  lirltlHli  Khip 
thon  nurn»ndenMl,  having  lost  101  men  in  thenetion,  while  her  iintagonist  hmt.  hnt 
14.     The  iiuniidrf  had  Ii8  gnns,  and  the  Constilutum  iiad  44. 


II 


\\    'f 


%i 


55.  St.  John*8  to  Labrador.  —  Northern  Newfoundland. 

1>l(tti%iic<'H.  St.  .Iohn'8  to  O.I  IVrliean,  47  M. ;  Trinity.  08  :  Cntnlinn,  H7  ;  llonii< 
^l.-*t«,  107;  King'8  t'ove,  lit);  (Jr.  ensp..i.d,  148;  Kogo,  '214;  Twlllli.giite,  L'JIJ  ;  Kx- 
plot ti*,  24!);  Liltle  lUy  IsLiiid.  284  ;  l.ittl«>  lta.> ,  '^Dli ;  Nipper'n  llarlior,  :)(!*>  ;  ItettH 
love,yt>y;  Tilt  V,»\v,  \\\l  \  r«)aohiiiun  h  Cove,  Ji41> ;  t'onehe,  ;un» ;  vSt.  Anthony, 
43ri;  Orlguet,  4^>0 :  llultlo  Harbor,  4114;  .^^pe.ir  llarhor,  AOC);  Kraneis  It.rhor 
MIgl.t,  618;  Dead  Isliiiid.  W};- ;  Neiiison  Island,  Ml;  IMineh  Howl,  fiHll ;  liiitteanx, 
fHiS;  Indian  Tickle,  fnS  ;  (hady  ,(>(ll  ;  Long  Island,  ()()8  ;  I'liek's  llarhor.  ()21  ;  lUgo- 
lette,t>it>;  Indian  lliirhor,  tvV.« ;  Hrig  llirhnr,  (Uy) ;  llolton,li7l;  t'ape  llnrrL-on, 
7t»U;  H^gg^'d  Harbor,  710;  Adnaviek,  72t) ;  MannoekV  Island,  740;  Naek,  703; 
Turnaviek,  7(>8  ;  Ca^H-  llariigau,  818 

lAihiuior  <  ixist  (>/  Sfniit  <it  Ik  Ih-  lulc.  —  St.  .lohn's  to  Battle  lliirhor,  4!>4  M. ; 
0*pe  Charles,  f)()0  ;  Chuiiney  'I "iekle.  fi04  ;  Chateau.  f>lT  ;  Ked  Hay,  044;  Lance-au- 
Loup,  6(>4  ;    Forteau,  5.i» ;    iMane  .^altlon,  f)8(i ;  Salmon  Ulver,  tiOll 

I  he  Xorlhern  mail-steamer  leaves  St.  .hdin's,  N.  F..  every  alternate  Monday  dur- 
Insc  Mie  season  of  navigation,  and  visits  the  chief  outportson  theN.  eoa»t  (so-ealled). 
The  t>»n'"»  aiv  as  follows:  St.  .lohn's  to  Hay-de  Verds,  10s.,  —  Hte(«rage,  (Is.;  to 
Trinity.  20s,,  —  stwrnge.  10s.  ;  to  lU)navlstn,27s  Od  ,  —  Hteenig«>.  14s.  ;  to  Oreenn- 
pond,  .^y^s  ,  — Pt«H>rago,  15s. ;  to  Fogo.  82  h.  (id.  ;  to  Twillingate, .%«.  ;  to  Kxploitg 
Tshnd,  87  s.  (>  d  ;  to  Tilt  Cove.  Lett's  Cove,  or  Nipper's  llarhor,  40  8  At  Itn  most 
northerly  ]>ort  the  steamer  meets  the  l/rrciilvs,  the  linl)rad«)r  mail-Hteamer. 

The  fiin>  on  the  T^abrador  steamer  Is  .*2  ft  «lay.  which  includes  both  pjussago  and 
m»»als.  Tho  northern  bivits  nxv  powerful  and  seaworthy,  hut  the  faro  ut  their 
tables  is  no<'essarily  of  the  plainest  kind.  The  thne  which  will  he  required  for  the 
Ijjbrador  trip  Is  nearly  four  weeks  (H-om  St.  .lohn's  back  to  St  .lohn's  again).  The 
expense  Is  about  SiM)  The  journey  should  bo  begun  before  the  middle  of  July,  In 
onler  to  avail  of  the  short  summer  In  these  hlirh  latitudes  It  would  be  prudent 
fhr  gentlemen  who  desire  to  make  this  tour  to  write  orly  In  the  smson  to  the  ag<'nt8 
of  the  steamship  lines,  to  jissun'  t.hemselv«»s  of  due  conniTtions  and  to  learn  other 
particulars  Mr  .1.  Tavlor  Wood  Is  the  agent  at  Halifax  for  the  steamer  ft-om  that 
port  to  St  .Tohn's  :  and  Dowrlng  Brothers,  St.  JoUu's,  N.  F.,  are  the  ageuta  for  the 
Northern  Coastal  Line. 

Passiuc:  out  botM'eon  the  stem  and  froAvniug  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St. 
.TohiiN.  tho  stoanier  sooti  takes  a  northerly  course,  and  opens  the  indenta- 
tion of  Lopie  Btjff  on  the  W.  (see  pa^e  196).  After  running  by  the  tall 
cliffs  of  J^ujrar  T.oaf  .^nd  Red  Head  (700  ft.  hifrh),  Torbay  is  seen  opening 
to  the  W.,  within  which  is  the  village  of  the  same  name. 


TTIINTTY. 


Rnuh,  GG.      201 


Ahoiit  R  M.  Imynnd  TorI»ny,  tlio  whifn  Hli«»rn  ii['  Cnpo  fit.  Franoil  Ih  mwu 
oil  tim  port  Im»\v,  iiikI,  if  IImi  wiifj-r  in  rmi^li,  tim  jMcut  l)nMik«M««  nmy  ho 
porn  \vliii»'iiin>(  over  llm  roc|;«  wliicli  urn  fiilliwl  llm  IliMtMli*";.  'I  lip  joijrMe 
I*  now  liii<l  inT()H«  tlin  irifHilli  nf  (!niic<'|)li(»ti  iJ.iy,  wlii-Ii  ]■>  m-f-ii  cxt^Miding 
to  tlin  S.  VV.  (or  .'JO  M.  IH  M.  froni  (^npn  St.  Kriiiicjj,  ii»i(|  nlnint  40  M.  frnin 
St.  .InliiiN,  llin  HfniMici'  |ms><cH  iM-twrrn  iJjiy  Vnd  IIcm  I  iiiifj  Split  I'oiiif, 
iiikI  Htops  oH'  Ihnj  \'rnf.^  u  vilJiif^r  of  iilnMit  <iOO  itiliiil)itiiiit ^,  HitilutfMJ  on  u 
liroiul  iiml  nn'^licltcn'(|  l»i^lit  of  f lid  himi.  Tim  ('Hliin^-^^roiiofh  in  tlil^  vicin- 
ity lU'o  lunong  tlin  Imst  on  tim  Anirricfni  «"oiiHt,  mid  iitfnirt  l!ir^,'<i  1\i-c\a  (jf 
houtn  inid  HcliooiHM'H.  Tim  nttcnfion  <»('  tlw-  vill;i;^«TH  in  dividivj  liPtwciM 
running  nnd  (Isliin^,  tim  liittrr  indn^trv  Ix-in^  liy  fur  tim  rriont  Incriitivo. 
Hoinl!*  UnuI  ont  fVoni  Itiiy  Vrrd  S.  to  CiirhotM'jir  iind  Miirhor  (ini(»!  (hoo 
Uont«  r»(J),  iind  N.  VV.  to  tim  KotthinicntH  «»n  Trinity  iJiiy.  Soon  aft«;r 
ioHvinj,^  Miiy  Vrrd,  tim  Htoiinn-r  pnxsiiH  /I'lirnliiH  hl<in«l^  u  liip;li  nnd  ridj^y 
limd  34  M.  loll)?,  nnd  tinirly  2  M.  Croin  tim  ni:iin.  On  itn  N.  «'nd  i^  a  povv- 
orCul  tliiHliin^  I'^^lit,  olrvutod  44^  ft.  iihovn  tim  h(;;i,  nnd  visihio  for  24  M. 

AUIioiikIi  CutHtt  WdK  Mh'  first  pntfoMioii/tl  (IlMrnvtTfr  nfttio  trrrn  niny  tKi  uw»»|)  to 
visit  iinil  oxplort!  tli«  >ilir)r("«  of  NowI'ouihIIiiikI  tiirif  in  no  doubt,  thiit  Mn-w;  wat«rfl 
hftd  lon^  IxM'ii  flu;  rr»ort  of  Mn-  flMliiniJ^-llri'tx  of  tiin  Noriiitiris,  lln-toiiM,  nml  I<hm<|ii(;h. 
lA'Hrnriiof.  rliiliiiH  Mint  tiivy  !i;i,ii  flnln'd  olf  Hiesc  niiorrH  "  for  iimny  r«'iitiiri«'f«,"  and 
Taltot  applifti  the  niitiM' *' lltu'ciilaoH'*  to  tim  rountry  lMTaiiH«i  "  In  th«!  M-ax  thfro- 
nltout  lit!  foiiinl  so  threat  iiiiilfif.iilfM  of  cnrtilii  hi^K'^  DsIii'm,  iniich  lik<;  unto  Tinini«'ii 
(whlrh  tlin  Inliiiliit.iiitH  nill  />V|fr«;^ffM),  th  it  t  icy  HouK-tiinc-i  Ktayi-il  IiIh  «hli>|M«." 
liiuM-alaos  Ih  tlio  aMclcnt  n.iM((iii«  inin*'  for  roilflHh,  ami  \\a  i'Xt«!n<«iv«  hm»«  hy  tho 
nativcH  in  pla'v  of  Micir  own  wor  I  A/iri^^,  iiD'anln^  tli»'  Hani«i  thlnj;,  l^  h«'l»l  an  ron- 
c1ukIv<>  proof  that  Mn'y  li'nl  Ix-iii  miik-Ii  in  (■oniinniiication  with  IIhw|u«'  fi.sh«!ruifln 
before  tlii'  arriv.il  of  Cahot.  Ciljitt  (^  ive  t'lJH  naiim  \i>  tlu!  rootinfnt  aw  far»ui  he 
cxplon-d  it,  hut  ill  the  may  of  1  >|()  it  In  applivii  only  to  the  i«W*t  which  now  re- 
tuinH  it. 

On  her  }ilt(!rnat<i  trip,'^  tlic!  v(ishoI  roiunh  in  nhont  (irntos  Point,  nnd  stops 
at  OUl  Pe rtican  (wc  Uontii  57).  Otlicruis*-,  it  runs  jurro^^^  tlif;  rnouth  of 
Trinity  IJny  for  iiliont  20  M.,  on  a  N.  W.  ronrso,  and  entf'rs  the  harl^or  of 
Trinity,  115  M.  from  St.  .Tohn's.  Tho  cntninr(!  in  hold  and  irnfjoMln^,  and 
tho  harbor  i«  ono  of  tho  Ix^Ht  on  tlin  island,  affording  a  land-lockfid  anchor- 
nj^e  for  the  hirgest  (huits.  It  Is  divifled  into  two  arms  hy  a  hi^h  rocky 
peninsula  (3H0  ft.  hi;;li),  on  whose  S.  side  are  the  wharves  and  hon.ses  of 
the  town.  Trinity  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  a  f)ort  of  entry  and 
the  capital  of  the  di.s*rict  of  'I'rinity.  Considerable  farming  is  done  in  tlie 
coves  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Uoads  le:ul  ont  to  the  S.  shore  ("eo 
Route  67),  and  also  to  Sa.  non  Cove,  6  M  ;  Knj.;lish  Harbor,  7;  Ha^^jjed 
Harbor,  16;  and  Catalina,  20. 

On  leaving  Trinity  Harbor,  the  course  is  S.  K  until  Green  I5ay  Head 
nnd  the  Horse  Chops  are  passed,  when  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.,and  runs  along 
within  sight  of  a  high  and  cliffy  shore,  lieyond  the  Ragged  Isles  is  seen 
Green  Jshndy  where  there  is  a  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  15  M.,  around 
which  (through  rough  water  if  the  wind  is  K.)  the  vessel  passes,  threading 
a  labyrinth  of  shoals  and  rocks,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Catalina,  re- 
9* 


l-k 


202      Route  n5. 


B0NAVI8TA. 


! 


I 


mnrknblo  for  Its  ^uddon  nnd  fro(ni(>nt  Intonnittont  tidw.  Tlio  town  of 
Cutnllua  lm»  1,.')0()  iiiliiil)it!mts,  with  2  cliuivlics,  of  which  that  of  th«  Kpln- 
CopMhuiiH  is  n  {\\\{\  )»it>(M>  of  urchitiM'tun',  though  biiilt  of  wood.  Tho  luiiln 
piirtof  tho  st'ttlomiMit  is  on  tlir  W.  side  of  tiic  hurhor,  mid  hiis  ii  (•()iisi(h»r- 
nblo  iii:iritimo  trade.  'I'ho  iidjiKM'tit  wntcrs  nltoinid  in  Hiilinon,  iind  doll- 
cions  odihlo  wlK^ks  nro  found  on  thi^  roiks.  Iiosi(h>s  \\n\  higliwny  to 
Trinity  (20  M.),  a  nijrppd  road  hM\d»  N.  to  Honjivistn  in  10  M.  Cntulina 
was  visited  in  ir»;U  by  (/iirtiiM*,  who  iiiuncd  it  »SV.  Ctttlurme. 

On  loavinp;  ("atidina  llnrbor,  Norfli  lload  is  jtnsscd,  nnd  nftor  running 
N.  K.  by  N.  3  M.  I'Mowcrs  Iloatl  is  h«ft  on  tlio  port  bow.  About  2  M.  be- 
yonil,tb('  Hird  Ish^ts  aro  scon  on  Mio  1.,  ncir  which  is  tlio  fisjiing-setticnicnt 
of  lih'd  /.tlnnil  Core  (070  inhabitants),  with  its  lonfj  luid  handsonin  beiudj. 
A  short  ilistiincc  inhuid  is  scon  the  Hurnt  Hidp>,  a  line  of  jlark  l)U'ak  hills 
rising  to  a  height  of  500  ft  The  DoIlarniMn  linnk,  fninous  for  codfish,  h 
now  crossed,  and  on  the  1.  is  seen  ('ape  Largent  and  Spiller  Point,  off  which 
arc  the  precipitous  and  towcr-lik«>  *  Sjn'llcr  Rocks,  surrounded  by  the  sen. 
The  steamer  now  passes  Capo  Bonavista,  on  which  is  a  red-and-white 
flasliing-l  ght,  150  ft.  above  the  sea,  aud  visible  for  15  M. 

The  rp-(llscovcry  of  NowfouiKlland  (iiftor  the  N()rthiiH'n\s  voynpps  5  conturlos  bo- 
forc)  was  oirwtvj  In  .lune,  14!»7,  by  ('iibot,  ii  Voturtian  in  tlio  service  of  Henry 
VII.  of  Knglauil,  .s-iilin^  in  the  ship  Matiltfir,  of  Hristol  Me  gave  the  name  ot  Bona 
Visla  ("  Fair  View  "),  or  Prhnn  Vista  ("  First.  View  "),  to  the  first  point  of  the  coast 
which  ho  saw,  and  that  name  has  since  been  attaeheil  to  this  northerly  cape,  since 
it  Is  iHjlleved  that  tliis  was  ti»e  h)catjon  of  tlio  new-fmnul  shore.  (Tiie  reader  of  Bid- 
die's  "Memoirs  of  Sebastian  (\abot "  will,  however,  be  much  puzzled  to  Itnow  what 
point,  If  any,  Cabot  actually  saw  on  these  ct>!»sts.)  The  rocks  and  shoals  to  the  N. 
are  prolific  in  fish,  and  are  visited  by  great  flotillas  of  boats. 

After  roumling  the  light,  the  stenrner  eutiM's  Honavista  Bay,  a  great 
bight  of  the  sea  extending  between  Capes  lionavista  and  Freels,  a  dis- 
tance of  37  M.  About  4  M.  S.  VV.  of  the  cape,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Bonavistai  an  ancient  marine  town  with  3,500  inhabitants  and  8 
churches.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  the  same  name,  and  is  also  a 
port  of  entry,  having  a  large  and  increasing  commerce.  The  harbor  is 
not  secure,  and  during  long  N.  W.  gales  the  sea  breaks  heavily  across  the 
entrance.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  fine  building  in  English  Gothic 
architecture,  but  the  houses  of  the  town  are  generally  mean  and  small. 
Considerable  farm  ng  is  done  on  the  comparatively  fertile  lands  in  the 
vicinity,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  climate  is  much  more  genial  and  the 
air  more  clear  than  on  the  S.  shores  of  the  island.  The  town  is  146  M. 
from  St  John's,  and  is  30  M.  by  road  from  Trinity  and  10  M.  from  Catalina. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  settlements  on  the  coast,  and  signalized  itself 
in  1696  by  beating  off  the  French  fleet  which  had  captured  St.  John'i  and 
ravaged  the  S.  coasts. 


BONAVIHTA   BAY. 


lioute  55.       203 


Htmnnnii.  Ihty. 

A  roml  IhuIh  S.  U'  fmiu  noiiiivi«ra  t«i  Hirrliv  ('«>v«'.  9  M.  ;  Ainhi-rwf.  (/0»e,  12; 
KIiik'm  ('nvr, '20;  K<m.1h  <'«)Vc,  2r»;  Ti«kU«  ('..vc,  ;i;j;  (M'<'ii  H"!"',  JJ  > ;  I'liU.!  Ct.vts,  3H  ; 
ami  Imliaii  Arm,  \'i. 

Kinii''*  Coif  \h  a  village  of  liahraMur  (ixhiTiiHMi,  wllli  r»'»0  iiilialiitiintN  and  2 
rliiirrlH'M.  It  Ik  <iii  a  narrow  liarlior  iM-fwci'ii  flu-  lotfv  rlitlK  of  flu-  maMf,  ranK", 
throii^li  wlwwr  paMHtT  a  mail  ruiH  H  toTririi»v  in  1^1  M.  •'{  M  from  KIiikh  <'ov«!  w 
lironil  Corr  villan"',  iimhT  tin-  hIihiIow  of  flu-  ]>vnk  of  Sondurn  Ih-ml.  A'»^/.i  l»  l\ 
M.  from  Kind's  Covo,  anti  i1o4>n  a  ronHiilfralilc  Innilx-r  ImHini'HH.  'I'lH-ncf  tin-  road 
il*>Mc<>nilH  MiroiiKli  Tirklu  Cove  (2  M-  from  tin-  |ii<tiir«'-<|ii<'  Utii  ('lilf  ImIihkI)  to  tli« 
tliHM'  villaKfH  on  the  S. .  t-ach  of  wliicli  Iuik '^-  ;{<!(»  iiilialdfantw  To  Hic  U  .  arc  tluj 
•li'0|MHtuarUw  of  Swrot  llarlior,  Dodc  Sonnd  ('JO  M.  lon^c)  ami  Nt-wnian  Sound  (II 
M.  ion^),  iM'iirtmtinK  Mi<'  liill-fimntrv  and  fxliiMtinK  h  HurrcHHion  ot  vIcwh  of  ro- 
uiantic  Hft'iifry  aiid  total  dcHolation.  lioatn  may  l><'  takt-n  from  ()\n'\t  Jl<il<-  to  fkir- 
row  Harbor,  a  flHhin((  wttlcnH'nt  10  M,  N.  W.,  at  tlic  nioufli  of  Newman  Sound,  and 
to  Sidrntff,  Ki  M  dlHtant,  a  vllla><«'  of  fi^Mt  InlciliitantH.  «i  M.  N  U  .,  I.ryond  tin-  Hay 
of  Fair  and  Falw),  Ih  lilooilif  ISiii/,  a  drrp  and  narr«iw  inh-t  with  iiicturcHtpK^  fon-Mt 
mM'iicry,  oxtrndinx  for  wvi-ral  inilfs  amont^  tin-  hills.  The  nam)>  wan  (jivi-n  on  ac- 
cfiunti  nf  tho  fruqucnt  rontlictH  which  here  enNn4-d  lictwccn  the  lied  IndiaiiH  and  the 
flMliorniiMi.  At  the  lieail  of  the  hay  !■<  the  Terra  Nova  Kivcr,  d<^''cendln^  from  tho 
Tfrrn  iWora  Uikt',  which  Im  If)  IM.  djxtant,  and  is  \'2  .M.  loni^. 

The  N.  Hhore  of  llonavista  Hay  in  visit«>d  moMt  ea.nily  from  the  port  of  (irrenn- 
ponti.  Tliu  cnininunication  \h  excluHively  hy  Ixiatn,  which  may  he  eiiKa^ed  at  the 
village.  N«!arly  all  the  islands  in  tho  vicinity  atid  for  lO  M.  to  the  S.  U'.  and  S.  are 
(M-cupied  hy  Hniall  comninniti4>s  of  hanly  fi-diermen,  and  the  nlioreH  of  tlie  main- 
land nni  indt'nt4>d  with  de<-p  and  narrow  ha\H  and  Kound.H.  To  the  N.  are  lUnA'n 
iHland,  li  H.  ;  Pinchers  Island,'.);  Tohhler's  island,  lO;  and  Middle  Kill  <'ov)!  (near 
(!ap«  KrcN>ls),  15.  To  the  S.  anil  NV.  are  the  Kair  Island,  7  .M.  ;  Heer  Island,  11  ; 
Cottel'H  Island  (three  settlements),  I") ;  the  JJooscherry  Isles,  12;  and  Hare  Hay,  28. 
Tho  last-named  plac«'  is  at  tin;  entrance  of  t'rrsltirnifr  Ii«ti/,  which  runs  in  for  ahmit 
16  M.,  with  d«'ep  w;it4>r  and  hold  shores.  The  j^reat  northern  mail-road  is  Ixjlng 
built  aloiif?  the  he  I  of  this  hay  ;  a  short  distance  from  which  (hy  the;  river)  an;  the 
Gufnho  himts,  hmy.  lakes  in  tin-  dt'Milate  interior,  23  .M.  lon^;,  ahoundinf^  in  fish. 
One  of  tho  h(>st  salnion-fisherios  un  the  island  is  at  the  hua<l  of  Indian  Bay,  12  M. 
W.  of  Uroeuspuud. 


Oil  lojiviiijj;  Botiiivistii,  the  steiinior  runs  N.  by  VV.  across  Uontivistii  Buy, 
passing  the  (jrooscbfTry  Isles  on  the  port  how.  Alter  over  3  hours'  run, 
the  N.  .shore  is  apjjroached,  and  tli(!  harljor  of  Oreenspond  is  entered. 
Tills  town  contfiins  over  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situiited  on  tin  island 
1  M.  .square,  so  ru<;ged  that  soil  for  house-<.fardens  had  to  be  brought  from 
the  mainland.  A  large  bu.iness  is  done  here  in  the  fisheries  tind  the  seal- 
trade,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  connected  with  either  the  one  or  the 
other.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  difficult,  and  is  marked  by  si  fixed 
red  light,  visible  for  12  M. 

The  steamer  now  runs  N.  K.  and  N.  for  about  18  M.  to  Cape  Freels, 
pa  sing  great  numbers  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  iniiabiled  by  fisher- 
me  ,  while  others  are  the  resort  of  myriads  of  sea-birds,  wluch  are  seen 
hovering  over  the  rocks  in  gretit  flocks.  Soon  after  passing  the  tirid  high- 
lands of  Cape  Freels,  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  VV.  across  the  opening  of 
Sir  Charles  Hamilton's  Sound,  ti  bi;oad  and  deep  arm  of  the  sea  which  is 
sudded  with  many  i.slands.  Leaving  the  Cape  Hidge  and  Windmill  Hill 
astern,  the  Penguin  Islands  are  seen,  loi  M.  from  Cape  Freels;  and  6  M. 
farther  N.  W.  the  Wadham  fslts  are  passed,  where,  on  a  lonely  and  surf- 


•;A' 


<:- 


204      Route  55. 


FOGO. 


beaten  rock,  is  the  Offer  Wadham  lighthouse,  a  circular  brick  tower  100 
ft.  high,  exhibiting  a  fixed  wliite  liglit,  which  is  visible  for  12  M.  To  the 
N.  E.,  and  well  out  at  sen,  is  Funk  Island,  near  which  are  good  sealing- 
grounds 

Funk  Island  was  visited  by  Cartier  in  1534.  who  named  it  (and  the  adjacent  rocks) 
Les  Isles  des  Oyseaux.  Here  he  saw  a  wliite  bear  *'  as  large;  as  a  cow,-'  which  had 
swum  14  leagues  from  Newfoundland.  "  He  then  roasted  along  all  the  northern 
part  of  thit  great  island,  and  he  ^iava  that  jou  ii.eet  nowhere  el^-e  better  ports  or  a 
more  wretchec  country  ;  on  every  Hde  it  is  nothing  but  frightful  rocks,  sterile  lands 
covered  with  a  scanty  moss;  no  trees,  but  only  8ou  e  bushes  half  driid  up;  that 
neverthelcsf"  he  found  men  there  well  made,  who  wore  their  hair  tied  on  the  top  of 
the  head."'  The  isles  were  again  vi.sited  by  Cartier  in  July,  1535,  in  the  ship  Grand 
Herniine.  "  If  the  soyle  were  as  good  as  the  harboroughes  are,  it  were  a  great  com- 
nioditie ;  but  ii    3  not  to  be  called  the  new  found  land,  but  rather  stones  and  cragges 

and  H  place  fit  for  wilde  bea^tes In  short,  I  believe  this  was  the  land  allotted 

to  Caine."  Such  was  the  unfavorable  description  given  by  Jaques  Cartier  of  the 
land  between  Cape  Bonavista  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

It  is  supposed  that  either  the  Baccalieu  or  the  Penguin  Islands  were  the*'  Feather 
Islands,'"  which  the  AnnnUs  SkaUioltini  and  Li  gmann'f  state  were  discovered  by 
the  Northmen  in  the  year  1285  The  Saga  of  Eric  the  Red  tells  that  Leif,  son  of  the 
Earl  of  Norway,  visited  the  Labrador  and  Newfoundland  shores  in  994.  ''Then 
sailed  they  to  the  land,  and  cast  anchor,  and  put  off  boats,  and  went  ashore,  and 
saw  there  no  grass.  Great  iceltergs  were  over  all  up  the  country,  but  like  a  plain  of 
flat  stones  w.  '-  all  from  the  .Mja  to  the  mountains,  and  it  appeared  to  them  that  this 
land  had  no  >:.)od  qualities."  Leif  named  this  country  Ilelluland  (from  Hella,a,  flat 
stone),  distinguishing  Labrador  as  Helluland  it  Mikla.  In  1288  King  Eric  sent  the 
mariner  llolf  to  Iceland  to  call  out  men  for  a  voyage  to  the.>'e  shores  ;  and  the  name 
iVjy'a  Land,  or  N^'a  Fundu  Land,  wa.s  then  applied  to  the  great  .land  to  the  S., 
and  was  probably  adopted  by  the  English  (in  tlie  Anglicized  form  of  Newfoundland) 
during  the  commercial  intercourse  between  England  and  Iceland  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury. 

9^  M.  N.  VV.  by  N  ,  Cape  For/o  is  ii])proached,  and  is  a  bold  promontory 
214  ft.  high,  terminating  Fogo  Island  on  the  S.  E.  The  course  continues 
to  the  N.  \V.  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  island,  and  at  6.^  M.  from  Cape 
Fogo,  Round  Head  is  passed,  and  tlie  steamer  assumes  a  course  more  to 
the  westward.  6-8  M.  from  Round  Head  she  enters  the  harbor  of  FogO, 
a  port  of  entry  and  post-town  216  M.  from  St.  .lohn's  The  population  is 
740,  with  2  churches;  and  the  town  is  of  great  local  importance,  being  the 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  fishing-stations  of  the  N.  shore.  (See  also  Route 
68  for  thi.s  and  other  ports  in  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.) 

**The  western  headlands  of  Fogo  are  exceedingly  attractive,  lofty,  finely  broken, 

of  a  red  and  purplish  brown,  tinted  here  and  tliere  with  pule  grten As  we  pass 

the  bol  1  piomincnces  and  deep,  narrow  bays  or  fiords,  they  are  continually  changing 
and  surprifiiig  us  with  a  ne.v  scenery.  And  uow  the  gi eat  sea-wall, on  our  right, 
opc'.'.s  and  «  i.  clo.«es  the  harbor  and  village  of  Fogo,  the  chief  place  of  the  island, 
gieauniig  in  the  setting  sun  as  if  there  were  flames  shining  through  the  windows. 
Looking  to  the  left,  all  the  western  region  is  one  fine  i-Egeau,  a  sea  filled  with  u  mul- 
titude of  i^iles,  of  manifold  forms  and  sizes, and  of  every  height,  from  mountain  pyra- 
mids and  cre<t«d  ridges  down  to  rounded  knolls  and  tJibJes,  rocky  ruins  split  and 
phattered,  giant  .-labs  sliding  edgewi.-i;  into  the  deep,  colunnis  and  grotesque  masses 
ruffled  with  curling  surf,  —  the  C\clades  of  the  west.  I  climl>  the  shrouds,  and  be- 
hold fields  and  lanes  of  Wiiter,  an  endle.ss  anil  beautiful  network,  a  little  Switzerland 
with  her  vales  and  gorges  filled  with  the  purple  sea."    (Noble.) 

In  passing  out  of  Kogo  Harbor,  the  bold  bluff  of  Fogo  Head  (345  ft.  high) 
i.s  seen  on  the  1.,  back  of  which  is  Briujstone  Head.     Tlic  vessel  steams 


TWILLINGATR 


RouU  55.      205 


tower  100 
.  To  the 
d  sealing- 


cent  rocks) 
which  had 
le  northern 
•  ports  or  a 
sterile  Ian  Js 
L  d  up ;  that 
the  top  of 
ship  Gram! 
1  great  coni- 
and  craggea 
and  allotted 
irtier  of  the 

he  "Feather 
iscovered  by 
;if,  son  of  the 
m.    •'  Then 
ashore,  and 
ke  a  plain  of 
fn»  that  this 
1  ife«/«,aflat 
Eric  sent  the 
and  the  name 
nd  to  the  S., 
ewfoundland) 
the  15th  cen- 


promontory 
e  continiies 

from  Cape 
Irsc  more  to 
lor  of  Fogo, 
lopuliition  is 
[•0,  being  the 

also  Route 


anely  broken, 
[.  .  As  wo  ptiJ^s 
lally  changing 
|on  our  right, 
3f  the  islund, 
the  windows. 
Id  with  ti  mul- 
|()untaiu  p)  ra- 
ilns  split  and 
iesque  masses 
louds,  and  be- 
lu  gwitzvrlaud 


|34r>  ft.  high) 
>ssel  steams 


in  to  the  W.,  up  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  soon  pass'ng  Fogo  Head,  and 
opening  the  Change  Island  Tickles  on  the  S.  Change  Island  is  then  seen 
on  the  1.,  and  the  course  is  laid  across  to  the  lofty  and  arid  hills  of  Bacca- 
lieu  Island.  At  22  M.  from  Fogo  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  of  Twil- 
lingate  (the  Anglicized  form  of  Toulinguet,  the  ancient  French  name  of 
the  port).  The  town  of  Twillingate  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Twil- 
lingate 

and  has  a  population  of  3,700,  with  6  churches.  It  is  situated 
on  two  islands,  and  the  sections  are  cf»nnected  by  a  bridge.  Farming  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the  vicinity,  but  with  varying  suc- 
cess, owing  to  the  short  and  uncertain  summers.  The  houses  in  the  town 
are  (as  usually  in  the  coast  settlements)  very  inferior  in  appearance, 
snugness  and  warmth  being  the  chief  objects  sought  after  in  their  archi- 
tecture. 

The  finest  breed  of  Newfoundland  dogs  were  formerly  found  about  the  Twillingate 
Isles,  and  were  generally  distinguished  by  their  deep  black  color,  with  a  white  crass 
on  the  breast.  They  were  smaller  than  the  so-called  Newfoundland  dogs  of  America 
and  Britain  ;  were  almost  amphibious  ;  and  lived  on  fish,  salted,  fresh,  or  decayed. 
Like  the  great  mahogany-colored  dogs  of  Labrador,  these  animals  were  distinguished 
for  rare  intelligence  and  unbounded  aff'ection  (especially  for  children) ;  and  were 
exempt  from  hydrophobia.  A  Newfoundland  dog  of  pure  blood  is  now  worth  firom 
S^  75  to  S 100. 

The  steamer  passes  out  of  Twillingate  Harbor  and  runs  by  Gull  Island. 
The  course  is  to  the  S.  W.,  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  Black  Islets,  and 
the  N.  promontory  of  the  great  New  IVorUl  Island.  14  M.  from  Twillingate 
she  reaches  the  post-town  of  Exploits  Island,  a  place  of  530  inhabitants, 
with  a  large  fleet  of  fishing-boats.     (See  also  Route  58.) 

From  Exploits  Island  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  is  crossed,  and  the  harbor 
of  Tilt  Cove  is  entered.  This  village  has  770  inhabitants,  and  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  border  of  a  picturesque  lake.  The  vicinity  is  famous  for 
its  copper-mines,  which.were  discovered  in  1857  and  opened  in  1865.  Be- 
tween 1865  and  1870,  45,000  tons  of  ore,  valued  at  $1,180,810,  were 
extracted  and  shipped  away.  It  is  found  in  pockets  or  bunches  3-4  ft. 
thick,  scattered  through  the  heart  of  the  hills,  and  is  secured  by  level  tun- 
nels several  thousand  feet  long,  connected  with  three  perpendicular  main 
shafts,  216  ft.  deep.  There  is  also  a  valual)le  nickol-mine  here,  with  a  lode 
10  inches  thick,  worked  by  costly  machinery,  and  |)ro(lucing  ore  worth 
$332  a  ton.  A  superior  quality  of  marble  is  found  in  the  vcinity,  but  is 
too  far  from  a  market  to  make  it  worth  while  to  quarry.  The  male  inhab- 
itants of  Tilt  Cove  are  all  miners. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  at  Nipper's  Harbor,  a  small  fishing-village 
10  M.  S.  W.  of  Tilt  Cove.  The  harbor  is  the  best  on  the  N.  shore  of  the 
Bi\y  of  Notre  Dame,  and  los  between  the  Nipper's  Isles  and  the  mainland. 
On  alternate  trips  the  mail-steamer  calls  also  at  Little  Bay  Jgland,  6-8  M- 
S.  of  Nipper's  hari)or. 


206      RouU  56. 


CONCEPTION  BAY. 


The  great  copper-mines  of  this  region  now  employ  thousands  of  miners, 
and  produce  vast  quantities  of  rich  ore.  The  new  railway  from  St.  John's 
is  heading  toward  the  N.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  to  reach  the 
mines.  They  are  owned  in  London,  and  much  of  the  ore  is  shipped  to 
Wales,  to  be  sm<  Ited.  Since  the  year  1880,  these  remote  shores  have 
received  great  accessions  of  population;  a  telegraph  line  has  beei. 
built  along  the  coast  to  St.  John's ;  and  new  roads  begin  to  reach  in- 
land, including  the  great  highway  across  the  island,  k^  Indian  Pond, 
Grand  Lake,  and  the  Bay  of  Islands,  surveyed  in  1878,  in  which  year 
Governor  Sir  John  Glover  and  the  Rev.  M.  Harvey  crossed  the  island  on 
this  line,  in  canoes,  finding  immense  areas  of  arable  and  grazing  land, 
deposits  of  coal  and  other  minerals,  etc. 

The  Hercules  connects  with  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  at  its  last 
port,  and  goes  on  to  Labrador  (see  pages  223  to  229). 

56.  St.  John's  t  >  Coaception  Bay. 

Railway  Stations.  St.  John's  to  Topsail,  IB  M. ;  Manuels,  18  ;  Kelllprews 
22;  Seal  Cove.  27  ;  Uolyrood.  33;  Harbor  Main,  36;  Falnion  Cov.-,  3:» ;  Hrinus 
Junction,  47i  ;  Harbor  Gra(  e  Junction,  57^  ;  Broad  Cove,  66^  ;  New  Harbor  Uoiid, 
74;  Tilton,7U:  Harbor  (Inue,  84-:  (:arbonear,i)2. 

St.  John  to  Harbor  (irace  Junction,  57i  M.  ;  lM!ic<'nti:»,  84. 

A  small  steamboat  plies  up  and  dowo  the  bay  at  certain  seasons. 

There  is  also  a  roiid  extending  around  Conception  Bay.  It  is  20  M.  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail,  by  way  of  fortiij^al  Cove,  passing  Ik'achy,  Broad,  and  Horse 
Coves.  The  more  direct  route  leads  directly  acros.><  tiic  N.  piirt  of  Avaion  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail.  The  chief  villages  and  the  distances  on  this  road  are  as  follows  : 
St.  John's  to  Topsail,  12  M. ;  Killigrews,  18;  Holyrood,  2S  ;  ChajKl's  Cove,  33; 
Harbor  Main,  34J  ;  Salmon  Cove,  37  ;  Colliers,  40  ;  Bri}.\us,  4«) ;  I'ort  de  (Jrave,  51 ; 
Spaniard's  Bay,  60;  Harbor  Grace,  63;  Carbonear,  67^:  Salmon  Cove,  72 :  Spout 
Cove,  76jt ;  Western  Bay,  82;  Northern  Bay,  87;  Island  Cove,  93^;  Ciiplin  Cove, 
97 ;  Bay^Verd,  106. 

The  stage-road,  after  leaving  St.  John's,  traverses  a  sfnguhir  farming 
country  for  several  miles,  and  then  enters  a  rugged  region  of  hills.  Portu- 
gal  Cove  is  soon  reached,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  ledges  near 
the  foot  of  a  range  of  liighlands.  It  contains  over  700  inhabitants,  with 
2  churches,  and  has  a  few  small  farms  adjacent  (see  page  196). 

Caspar  Cortereal  explored  this  coast  in  the  year  1500,  and  named  Conception 
Bay.  He  carried  home  such  a  favonible  account  that  a  I'ortnguese  colony  was  es- 
tablished at  the  Cove,  and  60  ships  were  sent  ou^o  the  fisheries.  In  1578,  400  sail 
,  of  vessels  were  seen  in  the  bay  at  one  time,  prosecuting  the  fisheries  under  all  flags. 
The  colony  was  broken  up  by  the  English  Heet  under  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  also 
drove  the  Frencli  and  Portuguese  fishermen  from  the  coast. 

Belle  Isle  lies  off  shore  3  M.  from  the  Cove,  whence  It  may  be  visited  by  ferry- 
boats (also  from  Topsail).  This  interesting  island  is  9  M.  long  and  3  M.  wide,  and 
18  tniversed  by  a  line  of  bold  hills.  It  is  famous  for  the  richness  of  its  deep  black 
Boil,  and  prmiuces  wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  and  hay,  with  the  best  of  butter.  The 
lower  Silurian  geological  formation  is  here  finely  displayed  in  long  paRillel  strata, 
amid  which  iron  ore  is  found.  The  cliffs  which  front  on  the  shore  are  very  bold, 
and  sometimes  overhang  the  water  or  else  are  cut  into  strange  and  fantastic  shapes 
by  the  action  of  the  sea.  Two  or  thn'e  brilliant  little  waterfalls  are  seen  leaping 
fWim  the  upper  levels.  Belle  Isle  has  <)00  inhabitants,  located  in  two  villages,  Lance 
Cove,  at  the  W.  end,  and  the  Beach,  on  the  8. 


HARBOR  GRACE. 


Rmte  56.      207 


{  miners, 
St.  John'8 
reach  the 
hipped  to 
ores  have 

has   beei. 

reach  in- 
ian  Pond, 
rhich  year 
!  island  on 
zing  land, 

at  its  last 


;   KeUlsrewB 

3;»  ;    Bri«u8 

larbor  lload, 


0  M.  from  St. 

il,  and  Horse 

billon  from  St. 

re  as  follows : 
's  Cove,  33 ; 
(Jrave,  51 ; 
«',  72:  t*pout 
Caplin  Cove, 


ur  farming 

lis.  Portu- 

ledges  near 

)itants,  with 


1  Conception 
olony  was  es- 
1578,  400  sail 
ndor  all  flags, 
•ake,  who  also 

;it«'tl  by  forry- 

M.  wide,  and 
its  deep  black 

butter.  The 
anillel  strata, 
|iin'  very  bold, 

itastie  shapes 
seen  leaping 

illaiseB,  Lance 


The  steamer  runs  out  to  the  S.  W.  betwe-^n  Belle  Isle  and  the  bold 
heights  about  Portugal  Cove  and  Broad  Cove,  and  passes  up  Conception 
Bay  for  18  M.,  with  the  lofty  Blue  Hills  on  the  S.  It  then  enters  the  nar- 
row harbor  of  Brigus  {Sullivan's  Hotel),  a  port  of  entry  and  the  capital 
of  the  district  of  Brigus.  It  has  2,500  inhabitants,  with  Wesleyan,  Roman, 
and  Anglican  churches,  and  a  convent  of  the  Order  of  Mercy.  The  town 
is  built  on  the  shores  of  a  small  lake  between  two  rugged  hill.--,  and  pre- 
sents a  picturesque  appearance.  It  has  over  800  boats  engaged  in  the 
cod-fishery,  and  about  30  larger  vessels  in  trading  and  fishing.  There  are 
a  few  farms  in  the  vicinity,  producing  fair  crops  in  return  for  great 
hihor.  The  best  of  these  are  on  the  bright  meadows  near  Clark's  Beach, 
4  M.  from  the  town;  and  several  prosperous  villages  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  Near  the  town  is  the  singular  double  peak  called  the  Twins, 
and  a  short  distance  S.  W.  is  the  sharp  and  conical  Thumb  Ptak  (598  ft. 
high). 

The  steamer  passes  out  from  the  rock-bound  harbor  and  runs  N.  by  the 
bold  hill  of  Brigus  Lookout  (400  ft.  high).  Beyond  Burnt  Head,  ^a^  rfe 
Grave  is  seen  opening  on  the  1.,  with  several  hamlets,  aggregating  2,(i00  in- 
habitants. Cupids  and  Bareneed  are  the  chief  of  those  villages,  the  latter 
being  on  the  narrow  neck  of  hind  between  Bayde  Grave  and  Bay  Roberts, 
2^  M.  from  Blow-me-down  Head.  Green  Point  is  now  rounded,  and  the 
course  is  laid  S  \V.  up  Bay  Roberts,  j  -ing  Coldeast  Point  on  the  port 
bow  and  stopping  at  the  village  of  Bay  Roberts  {Moore's  Hotel).  This 
place  consists  of  one  hjng  street,  with  2  churches  and  several  wharves, 
and  has  2,800  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  spend  the  summer  on  the  Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing  out  from  Bay  Roberts,  Mad  Point  is  soon  left  abeam,  and  Span- 
iard's Bay  is  seen  on  the  1 ,  entering  the  land  for  3^  M.,  and  dotted  with 
fishing-establishments.  The  bay  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  high  hills, 
on  whose  promontories  are  two  or  three  chapels.  The  hamlet  and  church 
o(  Bryant's  Cove  are  next  seen,  in  a  narrow  glen  at  the  base  of  the  hills, 
and  the  steamer  passes  on  nround  the  dangerous  and  surf-beaten  Harbor- 
Grace  Islands  (off  Feather  Point),  on  one  of  which  is  a  revolving  white-- 
and-ied  flash  light,  151  ft.  above  the  sen,  and  visible  for  18  M. 

Harbor  Grace  (two  inferior  inns)  is  the  second  city  of  Newfoundland, 
and,  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Harbor  Grace.  It  has  7,100  inhab- 
itants, with  several  churches,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  fire  and  police 
departments.  The  town  is  built  on  level  land,  near  the  shelter  of  the 
Point  of  Beach,  with  it  >  wharves  well  protected  by  a  long  sand-strip. 
The  bay  is  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  decreasing  from  li  M.  in  width  to  ^ 
M.,  and  is  insecure  except  in  the  sheltered  place  before  the  city.  Tlie 
trade  of  this  port  is  very  large,  and  about  200  shi|)s  enter  the  harbor 
yearly.  There  is  a  stone  court-house  and  a  strong  prison,  anil  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Presentation  is  ou  the  Carbonear  roud.    The  Roman  Catholic 


208      Route  57. 


CARBONEAR. 


I*  i' 


cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in  the  city,  and  its  high  and  symmetrical 
dome  is  a  landmark  for  vessels  entering  the  port.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  profusely  ornamented,  having  been  recently  enlarged  and 
newly  adorned.  Most  of  the  houses  in  the  city  are  mean  and  unprepos- 
sessing, being  rudely  constructed  of  wood,  and  but  little  improved  by 
painting. 

A  rugged  road  runs  N.  W.  15  M.  across  the  peninsula  to  Heart's  Content 
(see  Route  57).  A  road  to  the  N.  reaches  (in  1^  M.)  the  farnung  village  of  Mosqmlo 
VoKt^  snugly  embosouied  in  a  pretty  glen  near  the  cultivated  meadows.  About  the 
jear  1610  a  colony  was  planted  here  by  the  agents  of  that  English  company  in  which 
were  Sir  Francis  Bacon,  the  Earl  of  8outhauipton,  and  other  knights  and  nobles. 
King  Janie.s  I.  granted  to  this  company  all  the  coast  between  Capes  Bouavista  and 
St.  Mary,  but  their  enterprise  brought  no  pecuniary  returns. 

Carbonear  is  1^  M.  by  road  from  Mosquito  Cove  (3  M.  from  Harbor 
Grace),  and  is  reacheu  by  the  steamer  aftei  oassing  Old  Sow  Point  and 
rounding  Carbonear  Island  This  town  has  5,000  inhabitants,  with  3 
churches,  and  Wesleyan  and  Catholic  schools.  Several  wharves  are  built 
out  to  furnish  winter-quarters  for  the  vessels  and  to  accommodate  the 
large  fish-trade  of  the  place.  It  is  21  M.  by  boat  to  Portugal  Cove,  across 
Conception  Bay.  This  town  was  settled  by  the  French  early  in  the  17th 
century,  under  the  name  of  Carboniere,  but  was  soon  occupied  by  the 
British.  In  1696  it  was  one  of  the  two  Newfoundland  towns  that  re- 
muinad  in  the  hands  of  the  English,  all  the  rest  having  been  captured  by 
Iberville's  French  fleet.  Other  marauding  French  squadrons  were  beaten 
off  by  the  men  of  Caroonear  in  1705-6,  though  the  adjacent  coast  was 
devastated;  and  in  1762  Carbonear  Island  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by 
the  citizens. 

The  mail- road  runs  N.  from  Carbonear  to  Bay  Verd,  passing  the  villages  of  Cro- 
ker's  Cove,  1  M. ;  Freshwater,  2  ;  Salmon  Cove,  5  ;  Perry's  Cove,  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
75;  Western  Bay,  17;  Northern  Bay,  20;  Job's  Cove,  26;  Island  Cove,  27;  Low 
Point,  33  ;  Bay  Verd,  33.  There  is  no  harbor  along  this  shore,  the  "  coves  "  being 
mere  open  bights,  swept  by  pea-winds  and  affording  insecure  anchorage.  The  in- 
habitants are  engaged  in  the  flshcries,  and  have  made  some  attempts  at  farming,  in 
defiance  of  the  early  and  biting  frosts  of  this  high  latitude.  Salmon  Cove  is  near 
the  black  and  frowning  clilfs  of  Salmon  Cove  Head,  and  is  famous  for  its  great  num- 
bers of  salmon.  Near  Ochre  Pit  Cove  arc  beds  of  a  reddish  clay  which  is  used  for 
paint,  and  /L  is  claimed  that  the  ancient  Ba'othic  tribes  obtained  their  name  of 
"  Red  Indians  "  from  their  custom  of  staining  themselves  with  this  clay. 

isay  Verd,  s<'e  page  201.  , 

57.   Trinity  Bay. 

This  district  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  (Fee  Route  55) 
to  Bay  Verd,  Old  Perlican,  or  Trinity  ;  or  by  passing  from  St  John's  to  Harbor 
Grace  by  Route  50,  and  thence  by  the  road  to  Heart's  Content  tl6  M.)  The  latter 
village  is  about  80  M.  from  St.  John's  by  the  road  around  Conception  Bay. 

Heart's  Content  is  situated  on  a  fine  harbor  about  half-way  up  Trinity 
Bavjundhas  1,200 inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  Labrador 
fisheries  or  in  shipbuilding.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  striking, 
partaking  ff  the  boldness  and  startling  contrast  which  seems  peculiar  to 
this  sea-girt  Province.     Just  back  of  the  village  is  a  small  lake,  over 


TRINITY  BAY. 


Route  57.      209 


iTinmetrical 
rior  of  the 
larged  and 
1  unprepos- 
nproved  by 

>g  Content 

•  of  Mosquito 
I.  About  the 
)any  in  which 
s  and  nobles. 
3ouavista  and 

"rom  Harbor 
w  Point  and 
mts,  with  3 
ves  are  built 
nmodate  the 
Cove,  across 
V  in  the  17th 
ipied  by  the 
iwns  that  re- 
captured by 
i  were  beaten 
ent  coast  was 
arrisoned  by 

villages  of  Cro- 

;  Broad  Covp, 

Cove,  27  ;  Low 

'  coves"'  being 

iriipe.    The  in- 

-;  at  farming,  in 

rt  Cove  is  near 

ts  great  num- 

ich  is  used  for 

their  name  of 

ay. 


(FeeRontcBB) 

hn"s  to  Harbor 

.)     The  latter 

Bay. 

ay  up  Trinity 
the  Labrador 

very  striking, 
8  peculiar  to 
ill  lake,  over 


which  rises  the  dark  mass  of  Mizzen  Hill,  601  ft.  high.     Heart's  Content 

derives  its  chief  importance  and  a  world-wide  fame,  from  the  fact  that 

here  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  old  Atlantic  telegniph-cuble.    The  office  of 

the  company  is  near  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  the  only  good  bui!ding 

in  the  town. 

*'  O  lonely  Bay  of  Trinity. 
O  dreary  shores,  give  ear ! 
Lean  down  intc  tlie  white-lipped  sea, 
The  voice  of  Cod  to  hear  f 


"  From  world  to  world  His  couriers  flv, 
Thought-winged  und  shod  with  fire 
The  Hngel  of  His  stormy  sky 
Rides  down  the  sunken  wire. 

••  What  sairh  the  herald  of  the  Lord  ? 
'  The  world  s  long  strife  is  done  : 
Close  wedded  l»y  that  mystic  cord, 
Its  continents  are  one. 

*'*  And  one  in  heart,  ns  one  in  blood. 
Shall  all  her  peopk-s  he  : 
The  hands  of  human  brotherhood 
Are  clasped  beneath  the  sea.' 


"  Throb  on, strong  pulse  of  thunder  1  beat 
From  answering  beach  to  beach  ; 
Fuse  nations  in  tity  kindly  heat. 
And  melt  the  chains  of  each  ! 

"  Wild  terror  of  the  sky  above. 
Glide  tamed  and  dumb  below  ! 
Bear  gently.  Ocean's  carrier-dove, 
Thy  errands  to  and  fro. 

"  Weave  on,  swift  shuttle  of  the  Lord, 
Beneath  tlie  deep  so  far, 
The  bridal  robe  of  earth's  accord, 
The  funeral  shroud  of  war ! 

*•  For  lo  '  the  fall  of  Oceon's  wall 
Sjiace  mocked  and  time  outrun  ; 
And  round  the  world  the  thought  of  all 
Is  as  the  thoueht  of  one.' 
John  G.  Wiiittier  s  Cnhle  Humn. 

The  road  running  N.  from  Heart's  Content  leads  to  New  Perlioan,  3  M.  ;  Sillee 
Cove,  6  M. ;  Hants  Harbor,  12  ;  Seal  Cove,  19  ;  Lance  Cove,  24  ;  Old  Perlican,  28  { 
and  Grate's  Cove,  34. 

New  Perlican  is  on  the  safe  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  has  about 
420  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  cod-fishery  and  in  ship- 
building. A  packet-boat  runs  from  this  point  across  the  Bay  to  Trinity. 
Near  the  village  is  a  large  table-rock  on  which  several  score  of  names  have 
been  inscribed,  some  of  them  over  two  centuries  old. 

Old  Perlican  is  about  the  size  of  Heart's  Content,  and  is  scattered  along 
the  embayed  shores  inside  of  Perlican  Island.  It  is  overlooked  by  a 
crescent-shaped  range  of  dark  and  barren  hills.  The  Northern  Coastal 
steamer  calls  at  this  port  once  a  month  during  the  season  of  navigation. 


The  southern  road  from  Heart's  Content  leads  to  Heart's  Desire,  6  M. ;  Heart's 
Delight,  9  ;  Shoal  Bay,  14  ;  Witles.s  Bay,  19  ;  Green  Harbor,  23;  Ilop«^  All, 28  ;  New 
Harbor,  32;  and  Dil Jo  Cove,  ^5.  The  villages  on  this  road  are  all  small,  and  are 
mostly  inhabited  by  the  toilers  of  the  sea.  The  country  about  Oreeu  Harbor  and 
Hope  All  is  milder  and  more  piustoral  than  are  the  cliff-bound  regior  ;*  on  either  side. 
From  New  Harbor  a  roiid  runs  E  by  Sptmiard's  Bay  (Conception  Bay)  to  St.  .lohn's, 
in  08  M.  To  the  S.  and  W.  lie  the  tishiug-hamlets  on  the  narrow  isthmus  of  Avalon, 
which  separates  IMacentia  Bay  from  Trinity  Bay  by  a  strip  of  land  7  M.  long,  joining 
the  piniiiisula  of  Avalon  to  the  main  island.  The  deep  estuary  called  Bull  Ann  runs 
up  amid  the  mountains  to  with  n  2  M.  of  the  (Jome-by-chance  River  of  Fiacentia 
Bay,  and  here  it  is  proposed  to  innke  a  canal  joining  the  two  bays. 

Heart's  ICase  is  1.5  M  from  Heart's  (Content  (by  boat), and  is  at  the  S.  entrance 
of  llandoin  Sound.  It  is  a  fi.^hinK-villajre  with  20(*  inhabitants  and  a  church.  To 
tlie  S.  is  the  grand  cliff-.scenery  around  St.  .Jones  Harbor  and  the  long  and  river- 
like  Deer  Harbor,  filled  with  islands,  at  wliosc  head  is  Centre  Hill,  an  isolated  cone 
over  1,0()0  ft.  high.  From  the  sunnnit  of  Centre  Hill  or  of  Crown  Hill  may  be  seen 
nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  IMacentia  and  Trinity  Bavs,  with  their  capes  and 
i.slands,  villages  and  harbors.  Just  above  Heart's  Ease  is  Randoio  Island,  covering 
a  large  area,  and  separated  from  the  u<"\n  by  the  deep  and  narrow  watercourses 
called  Random  Sound  and  Sndth's  Sound.  There  is  much  fine  scenery  in  the  sounds 
and  their  deep  arms,  and  salmon-fishing  is  here  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent. 
There  are  immense  quantities  of  slate  on  the  shores,  some  of  which  has  been  quar* 

N 


,•  ( 


I 


Hi' 


\i- 


210      Route  r,8. 


UIVEU  OF   EXPLOITS. 


rled  (at  Wilton  Orove).  The  two  Houndn  »r«»  about  H()  M  lonp:,  forming  three  Ridei 
of  a  Hqnnrc  nrniuxl  Hnndoin  lMltintl,Hnil  havo  a  width  of  from  )  M.  to  2  M.  "The 
will  up  Smith's  Souiul  wuh  v»>rv  Ix'tMitlful.  It  is  n  \\\w  ilvrr-like  arm  of  thcwa,  1-2 
M.  with',  with  lofty,  and  in  ninny  ]tlnc«'s  |)r«<ri|iitous,n»rky  hunks,  rovcn'il  with  wood. 
....  Thi>  rharnotor  of  thi>  s«M>n«'ry  of  ItMiidom  Sound  is  wild  anti  hctiutiful,  and  ron- 
Tcyinfj,  ft-om  Its  HtillnoHH  and  Hilon<'<>,  tin*  ftn'Mn^  of  utter  8oiitud«>  and  mmMurIou." 

Trinity  is  tho  most  convonioMt  point  fVoni  which  to  visit  the  N.  shore  of 
tlio  \\'.\\  is«H»  |)!ig(»2()l).  The  southern  road  runs  to  Troiity,  7  M  ;  Now 
Bonnvoiituro,  12  M. ;  niul  Old  Houiivcnturc,  18  AI.  Hoyoiid  tlicso  .settlo- 
ments  is  the  N.  ciitmiioc  tu  Kaiidoui  Souiul. 

58.   Ths  Bay  of  Notre  Dame. 

rns,««pnpf>rs  ar<'  Inndod  from  \\w  Northern  ("oastiil  8teanu>r  at  Kopo,  Twlllhifcate, 
Little  Hav  Island,  Nipper's  Harbor,  or  Tilt  Cove,  —  all  ports  on  tills  bay  (see 
pagfs204;  2(>f)). 

Fogo  is  sitiintod  on  Fogo  Island,  which  lies  lictwoon  Sir  Chnrlos  Hnm- 
iltoji's  Sound  and  the  Hay  of  Notre  Dauif.  It  is  13  M.  long  from  K.  toW., 
nnd  8  M.  wide,  and  its  shores  sire  liold  and  niirged.  There  arc  10  fishing- 
villages  on  the  island,  with  nearly  2,000  inhahitants  (exclusive  of  Fog<Of 
and  mads  lead  across  the  hills  from  cove  to  cove. 

It  is  9  >I.  by  road  from  I'otro  to  Cape  Kogo;  7  MTto  Shoal  Ray;  5  to  Joe  Batt'8 
Arm  (400  inh;ilMtaiits)  ;  7  to  l.itlie  Seldom -eome-by  ;  and  S)  to  Srhlom-come-hy,  a 
considerable  villnfje  on  a  fhie  safe  liarbtu*,  whieh  is  often  filled  with  Hwts  of  sehoon- 
ers  and  briirs.  If  ire  on  the  roast  oreontrary  winds  juvvent  the  fishermen  from 
rpaehiuR  Labrador  in  the  earlv  summer,  hundretls  of  sail  bear  away  for  this  harbor, 
and  wait  hen»  until  the  northern  voyajre  is  praeticable.  There  is  no  other  seeure 
anchorage  for  over  HO  M  down  the  eoast  7V7/r)»  Ihirlmr  is  on  the  K  coast  of  the 
island,  and  is  a  Catholic  villaire  of  about  400  inhabitants.  The  principal  settlements 
reached  by  boat  from  Ko^o  are  Apsev  Cove,  14  M.:  Indian  Islands,  14;  Klackhead 
Cove,  14  ;  Kocky  Hay,  2o:  Barrd  Islands,  4  ;  and  Chanp'  Islands,  8.  20  M  S.  W. 
Is  (bnider  lliv,  the  oiitlet  of  the  nivat  linmler-Bnii  Ponds,  which  Imthe  the  slopes  of 
tlie  nine  Ililis  and  the  Ih-art  Ridne,a  chain  of  mountuins  30  M.  long. 

Frotn  h\rph!ts  hlatif/  (see  page  205)  boats  pass  S.  12  M.  through  a  great 
nrohipelag<i  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  of  Exploits.  This  noble  river  de- 
scends from  Red-Indian  Pond,  about  90  M.  to  the  S.  W.,  and  has  u  strong 
current  with  frequent  rapids.  The  Grand  FalU  are  145  ft.  high,  where 
the  stream  breaks  through  the  Chute-Brook  Hills.  An  Indian  trail  leads 
from  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  S.  W.  across  the  vast  barrens  of  the  in- 
terior, to  the  Bay  of  Despair,  on  the  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland.  The  River 
of  Fxploits  flows  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course  through  level  lowlands, 
covered  with  evergreen  forests.  It  may  be  ascended  in  steamers  lor  12 
M..  to  the  first  rapid,  and  from  thence  to  the  Red-Indian  Pond  by  boats 
(making  tVequent  i)ortages). 

Tlie  river  was  first  ascended  by  Lieut.  Buchan,  R.  N.,  in  1810,  under  orders  to  find 
and  conciliate  the  Red  Indians,  who  had  tied  to  the  interior  after  beinji:  nearly  ex- 
terminated by  the  whites.  lie  met  a  party  of  them,  am!  left  hostages  in  tlteirliands 
while  he  carried  some  of  their  number  to  the  coa>Jt.  But  his  guests  decamiwd.  and 
he  returnetl  only  to  find  that  the  host-iges  had  be<>n  cruelly  murdered,  and  the  tribe 
had  Hed  to  the  n^niote  interior.  In  1823  three  squaws  were  captured,  taken  to  St. 
John,  loaded  with  presents,  and  released;  since  whicii  time  no  Red  Indians  have 
been  seen,  and  it  is  not  known  whether  the  tribe  is  extinct,  or  has  fled  to  Labrador, 


KED-INDIAN    POND. 


Route  68,      211 


three  aides 
M.    "The 

li«>  w>n,  1-2 
with  wood. 

il,  iiiiil  con- 

■luHioii." 

I.  slu)ro  of 

M  ;  Now 

eso  settlo- 


Twllllnpito, 
iU  buy  (see 

lulos  Hnm- 

n  K.  to  W., 

10  fishiTiR- 

1  of  Fogo), 

[>  Jof  Batt'B 

>i-conif-bi/,  a 

,8  of  Kchoon- 

uTiin'ii  from 

tills  Imrlior, 

Dtlior  M'cure 

(■(mst  of  the 

settlciiu'iitfl 

;  Klackhcad 

20  M   S.  W. 

:,hu  slopes  of 

gh  a  great 
e  river  do- 
s  a  strong 
gh,  where 
rail  leads 
of  the  in- 
The  River 

lowlands, 
icrs  for  12 

by  boats 


rders  to  find 
lu'urly  ex- 
their  hands 
■Hiiiped.  and 
ml  the  tribe 
aken  to  St. 
.dians  have 
0  Labrador, 


or  In  iiecluded  In  some  more  remote  part  of  the  Interior.  They  were  very  numerous 
at  the  time  of  the  luivmit  of  the  Kuropeann,  and  r«'ccive<l  the  new-comcrn  with  ron« 
fldence ;  but  thi-rcat^iT  for  two  ovntiiricH  tboy  won;  huiit/(>(|  «l(»wii  for  tho  nnkv  of  the 
rich  furn  in  thrir  poNHttsHJoti ,  iiiid  ^nuliiiilly  riitiriMl  to  tlic  ilihtarit  inland  iakuM. 

In  1827  Min  lla!of,liic  HfMJrt.v  C)f  St  .lohn'H  m-nt  out  ciivovn  t«)  find  tln>  lU'd  Indians 
and  op<!n  friendly  iiit«'rc<Mir»<<'  with  thi-ni.  lint  thry  wt  n;  unubht  to  ^ut  nl^ht  of  a 
filnglu  Indian  during  jon^  weeks  of  niniMiiiK  tl)r()ii;rh  the  ititerinr^  and  it  Ih  con- 
rluded  that  the  r.iee  i<  extinct.  On  th«' NhoreHof  the  bnmd  ntid  beautiful  Il<!d-Indlan 
Pond  Mr.  (-ormaek  fmnid  several  lonjj-deserU'd  vill.ijjeK  of  wlj^wann,  with  canons, 
and  ruriouR  aboriginal  ceniet^M-ieH.  TliiM  wn«  evidently  tlie  fivorite  F(!at  of  the  tribe, 
and  from  thin  point  their  deer-fenres  were  Hecn  for  over  30  M.  (sen  alHo  page  218). 

Little  liny  As/aw/ (1,600  in habitttnlH),  IB  M  from  Tilt  Cove,  U  the  most 
favorable  point  from  which  to  visit  Hall's  Bay.  >'  M.  S.  W.  are  the  nottlc- 
ments  at  the  mouth  of  Flnll's  Bay,  of  which  Ward'-H  Harbor  is  the  chief, 
liaving  200  inhabitants  and  a  furtory  for  camiing  salmon.  There  are  valu- 
able sHlmon-fisherieH  near  the  head  of  tlu!  bay.  From  Ilall'H  Bay  to  the  N. 
and  VV.,  and  towards  White  B-iy,  are  tlie  favorite  summer  feeding-groundu 
of  the  immense  herds  of  (hier  which  range,  almost  unmolesterl,  over  the  In- 
terior of  the  island.  The  hunting-grounds  are  usually  entered  from  this 
point,  and  sportsmen  should  secure  two  or  throe  wcll-certificd  Micmao 
guides. 

A  veteran  British  fiportaman  has  written  of  this  region  :  "  I  know  of  no  country 
§o  near  England  which  offers  the  Hanie  amount  of  inducement  to  tlie  explorer,  natu« 
ralist,  or  sportHman."  It  in  to  be  hojKid,  howev«'r,  that  no  future  visitors  will  imi- 
tate the  atrocious  conduct  of  a  party  of  London  pportsmeti,  who  recently  entered 
these  huntinK-KroundH  and  nia.HHficred  nearly  2,000  deer  during  the  short  sea.<<on, 
leaving  the  forests  filled  with  decaying  game.  Public  opinion  will  sustain  tjje  Mlc- 
mac  IndiauM,  who  are  dependent  on  the  deer-for  tlicir  living,  and  who  hrive  declared 
that  tlioy  will  prevent  a  n^petltion  of  such  carnage,  or  puni.sh  its  perpetrators  la  a 
Buumiary  manner. 

The  Indians  and  the  ha!f-breed  hunters  frequently  cross  the  i.sland  from  Hall's 
Bay  by  ascending  Indian  Ilrook  in  boat^  for  aliout  2.'>  M.,  and  then  making  a  port- 
age to  the  chain  of  ponds  emptying  into  (Jrand  Pond,  and  descending  by  l)eer  Pond 
and  the  llumber  Kiver  (skirting  tlie  liong  Rnngo)  to  the  ll.iy  of  Islands.  The  trnnslt 
Ib  both  arduous  and  perilous.  20  M.  inland  are  the  mountains  called  the  Tliret 
TowerSy  from  who'ie  summit  may  bo  seen  the  Grand  Pond,  the  B.ay  of  lixplolts,  and 
the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

Tile  deer  migrate  to  the  S.  W.  in  the  autumn,  and  pa.sstho  winternear  St.  George's 
B.iy  and  Cape  Uiy  Tiie  lied  Indians  constructed  many  leagues  of  fence,  from  t!ie 
Bay  of  Notre  Dame  to  Ued-Indi  m  Pond,  by  which  they  int<Tceptcd  the  licrdsduring 
their  pasMago  to  tiu'  S  ,  and  Idd  in  supplies  of  provi  ions  far  tlie  winter. 

Ked-Iiullaii  Pond  is  about  8i)  M.  S.  W.  of  Hall's  Bay.  It  is  40  M.  long  by 
5-6  M.  wide,  and  contains  many  islands.  To  the  S.  lie  the  great  interior  lakes,  ii 
an  unexplored  and  trackless  region.  The  chief  of  these  are  Croaker's  Lake  (10  M. 
distant),  filled  witli  islets  ;  Jame.«<on's  Lake,  20  M.  long,  between  Serpentii.o  Mt.  and 
Mt.  Misery  ;  Lake  Bathurst,  17  by  6  M. ;  and  George  IV.  Lake,  18  by  0  M.  16  M. 
\y.  of  Red-Indian  Pond  is  Grand  Pond,  which  is  60  M.  long.     (See  page  218  ) 

From  Nipper's  Harbor  the  sportsman  may  pa-s  up  Green  Bay,  to  the  S.  W.,and 
enter  the  hunting-grounds  (having  first  taken  care  to  secure  trusty  guides).  Ou  the 
N.  side  of  the  bay  is  a  copper-nuiie  that  was  opened  in  1809,  and  has  yielded  well. 

Till.  Cove  i.s  23  M  from  Hill's  Bay,  30  M.  from  New  Bay,  and  24  M.  from  Nim- 
rod.  7  M.  distant  is  Buryinn  P^ace,  a  sm.-ill  fi  hing-village,  near  which  have  been 
found  numerous  birch-bark  cofflns  and  other  memorials  of  the  Ilcd  Indians.  A  road 
runs  N.  E  from  Tilt  Cove,  passi:i;^  i;i  3  yi.  Round  Harbor ^  which  is  prolific  in  cop- 
per ;  and  in  4  M  S!ioe.  Coir,  famou.'*  for  trout,  and  the  station  of  a  government  boat 
which  here  watches  the  French  fisheries.  A  road  runs  JJ.  7  M.  from  Shoe  Core  to 
La  Scie,  ou  the  Freuch  Shore  (see  Koute  61). 


1 


iH 


.( 


^i 


'ir 


H- 


212 


/?ow^.W  IM,A(Mi:NTlA    !UY. 


59.    Placentia  Bay 

In  inoluiloil  bot\v»uMM''npo  S(.  Mrttv  iitxl  Cupo  I'lmpoim  H«<npp,  niut  h  4R 
M.  \vi«U».  FlaoeniiA  i"  llif*  rmtiinl  «)("  ihi>  «M»p|«>rn  »lioiv,  iumI  I«  it  port  of 
<>ntvy  HHil  po««t-to\vii,  SO  M.  (Voui  Si.  .lolm's  bv  toml.  Il  h  htiiH  mI«»?i^  n 
Iflvol  !»(v«n(l,  ovorshn»l<nv«'(|  l>y  vtMiinl  «lt>tmli('<|  111114,  mt*)  nitiiiitiiinn  ii  UwyrQ 
(loot  of  flnhlnn-bont"*.  Tlion'  mo  vonuuKuMo  rlilV-*  on  Point  Voitio  luid 
Oixojj  Inl.-nul,  noiu-  fho  town;  ton)  (ho  viown  IVotu  Simml  lllll  iiml  Cusllo 
Hill  oxtonM  fur  onl  ovor  tho  h;\\ .      I'horo  in  ininli  roinnnfio  sooiiory  iiloiijr 

nml  S.  I'',.  AtniR,  wliioh  oxtomi  from  the 
littilroiiit  to  St.  .loliii'H,  it)  ,S4  M. 


tlio  nju'»>w  olouo\«>!s  of  tho  N    I' 
hj\vl)or  in  «n<on^  (ho  nM»un(jU!»s. 


h\  tl<i»  y«»«r  \{\{^)  lMnrr>nt(n  Wny  w«h  ot)(i>n'tl  h\  (wo  I'lriM  h  t^(Kn(»'P,  wtilrh  pulh'd  np 
Into  tho  ttnvt>i>r  «n<t  InniliMt  i«  B(n>ntr  ('oii>i<  o(  i«ol(U«'is.  with  hniv)  nrflllon  nml  n(h««r 
nnniidons  U«'n>  (hoy  <>nH*toii  i«  Hd-ouK  r<tt(,  Kriopvin^  ii  |ioiii(  no  nonr  ('h«<  rhiuinol 
thiii  (ho  Uro-iMt  \,t\  I|on(.ni  \\vhi>  wiis  ili  dti  IkmI  foitln(\  hoio)  mild  (hut  "  rIiIiih  itoing 
\\\  nvrtro  (m>  (o  Kisnk^npon  (ho  nnglo  o(  (ho  l>n»(iiin  ''  Tho  KiTUoh  liohl  (liln  |Hint, 
until  ITl.S,  whon  U  whs  Moivnih'irtl,  iiooonling  (n  (l\o  (oniiH  of  tho  tn'H(,\  of  lUrooht. 
Tho  p<>r(  hot'iowo  tiu\u>\»i«  «s  (ho  n'soi(  o(  (ho  V'ti'm  h  |nlvn(oor«  which  ««<ro  dofsd'oy- 
tng  tho  Kn|fil«h  (Ivhovios,  -awA  ('ononodoiv  Wmn'n  wn^  c«<n(  out  (^ln  I(in2)  with  throw 
(H^-irun  tVln-Oos  io\i)  (wo  HuuUlor  vokk'Is  (o  (lof;(ro\  (he  (own  >Viiin<n  not  In  olono 
to  Plrtoondn  and  oponod  (ln\  liu(  wiif«  winndv  norlvrd  hv  (li«<  linllorl<><*  n(  tho  i»n- 
tmnopund  hv  K«M-t  St  l.ouls  Allor  n  hoavv  rnnnonndo  ol  hIx  Iiouvh'  dunitlon.  tli« 
Knith'^h  ttivt  wn»  foivivt  (o  draw  o{\  In  liiJH*  IhoivUlc  ^itthotrd  14  w«r-vof«wln  Rt 
IMnootitln,  nnd  hrtvlnji  nnolvod  4('('  uton  ot  Quohoo,  pidlod  to  tho  K  itnd  ovornui  nil 
tho  Adnntio  ••HWvt  of  \owtonndlio\d,  rotuvning  wKh  40  ftO  prlno  rihlpn  nnd  (MM) 
piisx>nor».  In  l«>;<7  (ho  h;ixmU  Kivnoh  Hoot,  whloh  (nndor  Ihoivillo)  dowtfo\od  nil 
tho  Uritish  posti*  on  Hudson's  \\t\\  ,  |t;tlhoi-«>ti  hon>  So  nuioli  did  tho  Itritish  dioHd 
tho  l>»(tornv«  of  Pl)»oon(l(»  nnd  tho  warliKo  onthuslrtpui  of  M  «lo  fonlnhollo,  Itn  onni- 
nmndoT,  th«t  Atlnoml  Wnlkor,  nnohoivd  nt  Sxdnoy,  with  n  r<plondld  Hind  onrnluK 
4,(X'H>  Innd-fioldioi's  nnd '.^H^  tMunon.  n'ftl^od  to  ohov  his  onloiN  to  ri'dnto  thin  iltfl« 
Kronch  torti>»s»,  .ind  s;«iiod  l^nk  to  Hrit.-iln  In  tlisuj-noo  >Vhon  Krnnoo  nun-oiidorod 
Nowtinindlrtud,  in  171.'?,  (ho  M>ldlors  nnd  oidzons  of  IMnoondn  ndnrntod  (o  t'npo  llre- 
toii ;  Mud  In  1744  H  Kivnoh  n^vnl  oxpoditlon  nndor  !M.  do  Hnttx  fnlU<d  to  roonptnre 
It  ft>-vm  tho  Hrltish.  This  town  nl^orwju-ds  hoonnio  ono  oi  tho  ohiof  ports  of  the 
rri^vimH* ;  hut  h«.s  of  li»Jo  >oni*s  lost  nuioh  of  its  ivlntivo  hnportnnoo.  A  rond  rnni 
honoo  to  St.  John's  in  Sl>  M  :  niso  through  (ho  (.ottlomonts  on  tho  S.  to  DistrnM 
Cove  in  2l)  M. ;  aU>  S.  W.  ;{S  M.  (o  Ihjoioh.on  St   Mnrv's  liny. 

IMtle  Phiceiitia  is  on  si  iitun>w  hnrhor  h  M.  N.  of  IMMOontin,  lunl  hnf»  3H3 
inhabitunts.  No:u*  this  point  is  «  bohl  poitk  o\'  tho  wostorii  nuijfo  in 
Avalon,  t'lvm  \vl\ioh  07  ponds  ntx>  vivihlo.  Tho  islands  in  tho  bay  nro 
visited  f\\m\  this  point.  Kaiu's  Inlands  {\i\'.\  inhabitants)  nro  10  M.  dis- 
tant; Kod  Island  (221  inhabitat  tO  is  12  M.  W.;  and  about  18  M.  distant  is 
Morashoon  Ishind,  which  is  *21  M.  long,  and  ln»s  on  its  W.  coast  tho  KaggoU 
Islands  Ji65  in  nnnibor.  Tho  groat  load-minos  at  7.(1  Manclie  arc  12  M.  N. 
of  Littlo  rinoontia.  on  tlio  Isthnuis  of  .\valon,  7  M.  from  Trinity  Uay.  At 
tho  head  o(  the  bay,  33  M.  tmni  L  ttio  IMaoontia,  is  tho  village  of  North 
Harbor,  near  tho  groat  rowdor-Honi  Hills,  and  7  M.  beyond  is  Black 
Kiver,  famous  I'or  its  wild-lowl  anil  other  game. 

Harbor  Bujfrt  is  IG  M.  (Wmi  Llttlo  PhioontJA,  on  the  lofty  and  indented  lx)ng 
I»l«nd,  and  hA«  SSS  inh»bitAnt.<.  Near  the  8.  W.  )>art  of  Placentia  Bay  is  the  town 
and  port  of  Burin,  a  station  of  tlie  Western  Coastal  steamers  (see  page  214). 


60. 


f  i* 


nut  i«  4R 
II  port  of 
I  iilnti^  n 

IMtIo   himI 

ml  TupIIo 

(M  V  nlitii^ 

from  lliti 


\\  pmIU'iI  up 

nixl  oili(>r 

10  rluuiiiol 

)|ih>fi  ([otiig 

i»f  lUnM'ht. 

wUli  »hn<o 
nn  III  I'low 
nt  tlip  PI1- 
initlDii.  th« 
i-vrf<Hvl^  at 
ovi'nim  bU 
m  nixl  (KH) 
'f«tln.\«Ml  rII 
UIkIi  (li-mtl 
o,  ItK  «'niu- 
I't  nirr\lnK 
>  thiK  litMo 
nni'iuU'riMi 

Vn\w  llre- 
1)  r«><'ii))tura 
litrtH  «)!  the 

loiul  runi 
to  I)|k(i-«>mi 


111  liHH  3F8 

rnngo    in 

bny  nro 

10  M.  (Ils- 

idistioit  iH 

12  M.  N. 
l\ay.  At 
of  North 
lis   lUtick 


|ntcd  liong 
the  torrn 


HT.    MAHY'H   HAY. 


nniftf  no     213 


60.   Thfi  Wentern  Ontportu  of  Ifewfonndland.     St.  John'i 

to  Capo  Ray. 

Dm  nllrninin  'rhiirmlnyw  nr  frlilnv  nf'or  \\w  (irrWfil  nf  fli»>  frinll^  frfim  KiirofH',  Mm 
Wi'«f«'fii  rmsltil  olonfii^r  li««»i>a  Hf    .foliM'"  fur  fho  fMitpnrfn  «»ri   Mn"   W    nhfrr" 

Frtri'B.  H»  .lMhii'«  ♦'"  KorrN  Iniul.  I'l«  ,  n«'»M'w«i#',  I'M  'V  n' }>»'")•  v,  I7«.  '>J  ; 
Wf.  IMf«rv>  or  l'lni(.|iHn.  yflF"  :  Hiirhi, '-^r.  q  ;  Ml  l,-iwr<'M'«', '/7  "  ''. 'I  ;  '»rnn<l  llnnR, 
JlftB  ;  Ht  IMorri',  MV>  Hd  ;  Mfii»iMr  llril»>fi.  'V/' ■  »'mI  ,  O'liilif.t"  ».r  On-'it  JirrfHn, 
n7i«  Hil  :  IliirKJMi.  4n«  ;  \,n  l'i.|l«»,  47"  <'<l.  ;  K<>««'  lllnnrh*',  r»Op  ;  ("hnriMfl,  fifiH.  ; 
Hydiipy,  70  n.     MmhIb  nr«  liirltnltMl.     Tli»»  trip  »»iit  iukI  \nvk  inkt'H  10  U<  12  'l»ijf«. 

8t.   Itilin's  1o  Ciipf  Uiirn,  pi«n  UtMitn  t)i. 

I'ii«=<lii!^  tliroiifrli  tjio  rocky  poilfih  of  tli«  luirbor  of  Sf.  .folm'^,  the 
nfniiniM'  llll■l•rl^  linr  roi(r«o  t.ollio  S.  (iloiijr  flii'  irori-hoiiiii|  Sfniit,  Shf»rH. 
Aftor  vhiliii}/  I'nnyhnnl  mikI  |{»'im)wmi<  (m<n  pnj/f  lt»H),  tlio  \lf'<\  Mill-*  are 
HOBi\  in  tli<<  W.;  iiimI  hnyond  tlin  lofty  htirn  Hiiinriiit  of  (/'(ipn  iWilliir'l,  tlm 
ilroudofl  clilV^  of  Onpe  Ilnoe  (pn^n  Hut)  miii  rouii(|M(|  wull  f»lf  Khoro.  ()iT 
KinnliwiitfM'  I'oifif  I  ho  roniKo  In  ohuii^Mfl  to  N.  VV.,  iiii'l  'lr«'p)i'm»'y  Bay  \n 
nntorf'l.  Tim  nhol•(>^  mo  lofjy  nn'l  huro,  nnd  opi-n  to  tho  nwoMp  nf  the 
MMi.  H^  M.  from  l''n"«hwiit,or  I'oint  U  I'owIoh  llmid,  on  who-o  W.  nido  the 
hnrlior  <»f  Trpp'ti^urf/  is  Hhidtfrod.  Tlio  f»»\vii  coiifnlriH  r»l4  irihiihiduit  •  'rio<«t 
of  whom  mo  «Mij/iiji«'d  in  fho  fhhorio'^,  iin  I  f^»nt^  on  n  ««ic,uro  li»irl»f»r  wliirh 
h  novcr  oloii'd  hy  Wn.    Uoinh  lojid  Iiimic  » to  Siilrnonicr(J{l  M  )mid  Fleri'iWHO. 

In  10'2H  liord  llRlMiiHtrp'x  f»lilp«  of  Avalon,  t.hn  Hfn^flirtinnnw}  thf  K/«7ofv,mit*Te<l 
Tnipii«iH*y  Miiy  iiihIit  full  mmII,  Ik-iiI.  (ki  iittarkiitu  tli«'  Kn-rirh  B«itM»«in«'fii..  'lit*'  H^nf' 
(liition  flr';t  urt'oti'd  Mm  lli'<«t  wIMi  m'Vonil  •■fiim(i(i--«h<it,  nff^-r  \rhi'-fi  mIi»«  ffut.  a  ^/Trlflfl 
hr(m<i-<Mo  iinioiiK  tin'  vuhmoIb.  Tin-  i\nm\\if  miWtirt*  Ih-fJ  t,o  Mm-  shorn,  ri.n<5  l\tf'  Virlfrry, 
IdWcrtiiK  luT  boutM,  |,tM)k  pimHi-Hslon  nf  .ill  Mm  vi'hwN  In  '  i«  h(irl»or  nnil  hor«  Mi'-rn 
nway  hh  priK(>it.  Tli«>  town  of  Tn-paMwy  wim  d«'Htroy«'(l  by  a  HriM'*h  luival  >ir,tA/k  In  1702. 

Tlio  fttoiimor  now  iuih  S.  W.  to  mid  nr(»iind  Capo  Pine.  '»n  which  i<«  a 
lull  circnlur  towor  whudi  nphtddn  ii  fixod  lij/ht  .'{14  ft  «hovo  tho  «ftft.  vinlble 
at  a  dlHtmico  of  24  M.  1  M.  VV.  aN.  W.  Ih  Ciipc  Frocls,  a  littlo  hoyond 
whicdi  is  .SV.  Shorn  linij. 

Thin  narrow  nlioro  hotwoon  Vn\>v.  Phm  anrl  Ht,.  Hhot's  \n  nn\i\  tf»  !»*•  fh**  mo«f. flan(t<»r- 
OUH  and  d('»tnic(iv»?  diMtrict  on  Mm  North  Anicrir-nri  roa^t,,  and  h;i.<i  )rtfu  thw  s/j-nf^of 
hunilr«'<|»  of  Hhlpwrt'«'k-J.  Tin- rontllrtint;  and  variatilo  rnrri-ntR  In  Mi»r««  waNT**  Wit, 
toward  tlui  Hinint  with  Kn-iit  forre,  and  dra.v  v«!flwdH  inward  nfK»n  th»!  rn((j(«-d  U',i\v,pa 
In  I'onnor  yoarH  diMUHfcrH  \vcn«  frf(|nfnt  Im-H',  hut  at,  prf«<-nt  marhmr*  arft  warn»^ 
olT  hy  Mio  Aihniralty  charts  ami  Mm  \\\t\\i*  and  whiMtU^g  ,>•»,.  .SIiot,>  i<«  m  dr»^a/l»?d  a 
naiiii>  on  Mm;  N  coa^f.  hh  (;a|M«  lliitt«(raH  h  In  Mm  noiithitrn  M'ti.  In  181(5  the  tran>»p'»rt 
Harpnon^r  wan  wrcck»'d  on  <I,i|K!  IMim*,  and  2'H)  |M>opl»  w«>n!  lofit. 

St.  Mary'H  l^ay  i^  honndi-d  t»y  Tap*-  Fn"*-!-*  and  JAnr«  I'oint,  and  *-xt*!ndJ»  for  28 
M.  Into  tin;  IN>niir<iila  of  Avalon.  On  th»?  K  Hhorn  U  St.  Mary\t,h  ritvrt-hiniM>  tn^n 
and  port  of  cnfry,  Hitii»t»;d  »»n  a  dc«'p  limil-lfKkfd  hartfor,  and  l.irfc^dy  anv^K'''^  '" 
tisliin)^.  To  tin;  M.  Ih  the  inr>nntainoiiH  ('jijm-  Knj^li-h,  nwir  whi'li  a  narrow  i»andy 
Im'icIi  H<'parat«>.s  tho  l>ay  from  llnlyrouil  I'onil ,  a  n-markahN;  ho<ly  of  fr«?*«h  wat.<-roT«^ 
12  M.  loiiK  It  iHliT)  ivi  hy  road  from  St  MiryH  to  .•*!.  .lolinV  ;  and  at  IB  M.  di*- 
tiinco  th(»  villaK<'  of  Salmnnifr  U  nviclu-d  Thiw  i»  a  fishing  and  fanning  town  near 
tin)  outlet  of  the  hroiid  Sahiumhsr  Rivor,  fanonn  for  Iti  (jr^at  .talnu.n  To  tim  .V  VV., 
at  th«  head  of  tho  tkiy,  ih  Honm  fitrikinj^  Hfvnery,  npsir  rolin»"t.  Hay,  wh«fr»r  Hmptie* 
the  Hodge-NVatcr  Klfer,  de«rendinK  from  tho  Qn«'mf>-Oo«i»«;n  l'"nd«,  in  the.  interior 
of  Avalon.  TImro  am  several  Hmall  hamlctn  in  thi."*  virinity  ;  and/'o//n>»/i.-»acf:»;rtrtit>Ie 
by  land  fVom  St.  .lohn'H  in  66  M.  The  VV.  ahnre  of  8t.  Mary's  Bfty  \»  mouaUiiums 
and  rugged,  aud  hac  no  settlementn  of  any  consequence. 


! 


I  i 


V. 


214      ItoiUeOO. 


FOIITUNK  lUY. 


■  I 


Boyoiid  the  hold  Cupo  St.  Mary  tlio  Htoinnor  niiis  to  tlio  N.  W.  across  tlio 
widn  onCmnoo  to  IMiu'ontin  I^ay  (sro  \\\\^i)  212).  At  iibout  20  M.  from  Cupo 
St.  Mary  tho  slinrply  (Iclinoti  licatiluiid  of  Oiip**  ('hiipciiu  Kotigo  Ihm-oiiioh 
vi.«il>lo;  aiiti  tlio  liuihui-  of  Burin  is  cntiMod  at  aUout  42  M.  IVom  ('apo  St. 
Mary.  This  harlmr  is  (ho  IIiichI  in  Nrwfumidlaiid,  and  Is  shcltorod  hy 
Islands  whoso  rlill'-liouiid  shores  aro  iioarly  2(»0  ft.  high.  On  Dc.dding  Head 
is  a  lijjhtliouso  i'M)  |>.  above  thr  sea,  Ix'arinfj;  a  nnolving  light  which  is 
visihle  lor  27  M.  Still  I'arthcr  np,  and  almost  (>iitii«'ly  land-locked,  is  the 
Burin  Inlet.  The  town  ol  Unrin  has  2,'{()()  inli:il)itants,  and  is  an  ini|)ortant 
trading-station,  sui)plying  a  great  part  of  IMaccntia  Bay.  The  adjacent 
8cenerv  is  ol'the  lioldest  and  most  rugged  character,  the  lofly  ishindH  vying 
with  the  iidand  inount.'iins. 

On  leaving  Burin  the  course  is  laid  to  the  S.  W.,  passing  the  lofty  prom- 
ontories of  t'orhin  Head,  Miller  Head,  atul  Keil  Head  Beyond  the  tall 
.sugar-loat'on  Sculpin  Point  the  deep  harhors  of  Little  and  (treat  St.  [iUW- 
reuce  are  seen  opening  to  th(>  r. ;  and  the  s(»a-resistingrock  of  Cojh' Clinpeau 
RotKjv  is  next  passed.  This  great  laininiark  reseujldcs  in  shape  the  crown 
of  a  hat,  and  is  74.S  \\,  high,  with  sheer  precipices  over  800  ft.  high.  From 
this  point  the  course  is  nearly  straight  for  .'}3  M.,  t(»  St.  IMorre,  ruiuiing  well 
cfT,  hut  alwavs  in  sight  of  a  hold  and  elevated  shore. 

St.  Piorre,  ."ce  pagi>  isr>. 

On  leaving  St.  I'it>rre  the  cour.se  is  to  the  N.,  passing,  in  5  M.,  the  low 
.•shores  of  (i'/-«<;}i  Islund,  and  then  running  for  a  long  distaui-e  lu^tween  the 
Mi(pielon  Islands  and  May  and  Dant/ic  Points  (on  the  nniinlaud),  which 
are  about  12  M.  ajiart.  When  about  half-way  across  iMirtune  Bay,  Brunot 
Island  (5  M.  long)  is  passed,  and  on  its  K.  point  is  seen  a  lighthouse  408  ft. 
above  the  sea,  showing  a  flashing  light  for  25  M  at  sea.  0  M.  beyond  this 
point  is  Sagona  Island,  with  its  village  of  fishernuMi;  and  5  M.  farther  N. 
the  steamer  enters  Harbor  Briton.  Here  is  an  Anglican  village  of  about 
800  inhabitants,  with  an  extensive  local  trade  along  the  shores  of  Fortune 
Bay.  The  harbor  is  very  secure  and  si)acious,  and  runs  far  into  the 
land.  Tins  town  was  settled  in  IGIG  by  VVelslnnen,  and  was  then  named 
Comb  rial 

Fortune  Binj 

Is  includo*!  bt^twiHMi  Point  Mav  and  Pnss  Island,  and  is  35  M.  wide  and  66  M.  long. 
Fortune  is  a  town  of  over  SlX)  inhabit^ints,  sitnafetl  near  the  entrance  of  tlie  bay, 
and  on  the  Laniidine  riiad  Its  energies  are  chiett.v  devoted  to  the  fisheries  and  to 
tridin^  witli  St  Piern>.  3  M.  E.  \.  E.  are  tlie  iiij^hlands  of  Tape  Grand  Hank,  from 
which  the  shore  tivnds  N.  E.  by  the  hamlets  of  Garnish  and  Frenehnmn's  Covo  to 
Point  Eura^^e.  The  E.  and  N  shores  are  broken  by  deep  estuaries,  in  which  are 
pnmll  ti<hin>j-settlenients  ;  and  in  the  N  W.  corner  are  the  North  and  East  Bays, 
fiinious  for  iierriiiir-tisheries,  which  attract  large  fleet"  of  American  vessels.  On  the 
W.  shore  is  tlie  prosjH'rons  village  of  Itelleoreiii)  engaged  in  the  cod  and  herring 
fisheries,  and  distant  15  M.  from  Harbor  liriton  Hoads  lead  {w\\\  this  point  to  the 
villages  of  Barrow,  Blue  Pinion,  Corbin,  English  Harbor  WvM.  Coombs'  Cove,  and 
St.  Jaques.  The  other  settlements  on  the  VV,  shore  are  mere  fishing-stations,  closely 
hemmed  iu  between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  are  visited  by  boats  from  Harbor 
Britnu. 


BUHOEO. 


liviiic  (JO.     215 


vcro^s  tho 

VolU  ('»|M> 

('apo  St. 
MtiM'od  l»y 
(liii^lloiul 
t  which  l» 
imI,  Ih  tho 

iniporttiiit 

B   atljllCHMlt 

imds  vyhig 

ofty  proni- 
1(1  tho  tall 
it  St.  Law- 
IH'Chnpeau 
!  tho  crown 
igli.  From 
liming  well 


^I.,  tho  low 
ctwoon  tho 
nd),  which 
!»y,  Hninot 
)usc  408  ft. 
oyond  this 
("artlior  N. 
;c  of  about 
of  Fortune 
ir  into  tho 
hen  named 


I  66  M.  long. 
B  of  the  bay, 
cries  and  to 

Hank,  from 
lan'H  Cove  to 
n  which  are 

East  Bays, 
I'ls.  On  tlie 
and  herring 
wint  to  the 
[s'  Cove,  and 

ions,  clo:»ely 
Ifroni  Harbor 


HertiiltniCA  Itny  I"  nn  pxt^Minivc  bl^lit  of  the  m<a  to  th<>  N.  of  I'a.MA  Nliind      Ttfl 

Rrln«-i|)al  lnwn  Ih  llttt/iihn;r  ('or, ,  an  Ani^liian  h«'MU  ni"iit  >>  M  trotii  ilitrlior  lirlf^di. 
.  iif  lliu  >)H,v  in  l<oiiK  IhIuiiiI,  wIiIiIi  ii*  'J)  M.  arnutKl,  iiiitl  f<lii>lt«'M  Mitt  llav  of  !>«■ 
MpHlrf  fHiiiiiiH  tor  ItM  pruiilir  MiiliiMiii-tUlii  rii-H.  Kniiii  t|ii<  Im-ikI  of  MiIh  itay  Imliun 
tndlH  Irail  inlioul  to  Loiik  I'linil,  Koiiinl  ruinl,  ami  a  Ki'<'i>t  <  ln^ttr  of  iiiiviriihd  liikrt 
NJtniifiMl  in  a  laml  nl'  iori'sts  i;iii|  niiiiiiiiMinH  Knun  tlir  tmllirr  i-mi  nf  IId'mu  inland 
waterM  dlvurx*'  Mio  f(rt<at  trails  to  the  llivcr  ol  Kxploitrt  and  iiallH  May, 

After  runniii)^  out.  to  tlio  S.  \V,  ix-fwci'ii  Snj^nni  Inlniid  and  (loiiiniijj^rn 
Head,  tlm  course  is  laid  aloii^  flio  coiii|iiii!iti\f|y  Hfriii(.dit  (oant  calh-d  the 
Wi'Hfrrn  »S'A"/r,  cxtcndini;  from  Kortuin^  liny  to  (yupo  iJny.  rrossii  j^  il.e 
wide  cstuMry  of  Hcrmitajic  liay,  flic  hold  liij^lduidH  of  ('ap(^  i.a  iliiiifi  are 
approached,  12  M.  N.  of  the'  IN-iij^'uiii  Islands.  Alxmt  2'»  M.  VV,  of  (!ap(5 
La  Ilutio  the  steamer  passes  the  Rniuva  ld<iti(h,  of  which  the  inhj  called 
Columho  in  reiiiarkahlc  for  its  height  and  lioldiiess.  There  in  a  tlshiiig- 
commuuity  IocuIimI  here  ;  and  tho  Aiif^iist  lierrliijt;H  are  held  uh  very 
choice. 

The  old  marine  nrords  report  «if  the  Iliunea  ThIos  :  •'  In  wliicli  IsN-h  are  mo  great 
abundnnre  of  the  Imiko  and  ini({hlie  Hra-oxt-n  with  );r<>iit  trt'Mi  in  tin*  monvMiH  of 
April,  IVIav,  aiitl  .lune,  that  there  liaiH!  Iteeu  fitteene  hundreth  lulled  tiieru  hy  one 
Hniall  harke  in  the  M'cre  l.V,)l." 

In  ir»U7  tlie  I'lnjiliHli  nhip  lln/umfll  ontcn-d  tlio  Iiarhor  of  Kauiea  and  tried  to 
plunder  the  French  venselH  there  of  their  Htorea  and  powder,  l^ut  wum  loiced  by  a 
Hhore-liattery  to  leavu  iiicontineiiMy. 

About  9  M.  W.  N.  W.  of  Riunca  (yolumbe,  the  Ht(!am(!r  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Burgeo,  a  port  of  entry  ar;d  trading-station  of  V>M  inhal)itantH,  sit- 
»n»tod  on  oik!  of  the  liurgeo  Isles,  whicdi  here  form  several  small,  snug 
harbors.  This  town  is  the  most  imjH»rtajit  on  the  Western  Shore,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  for  vessels  seeking  supplies.  3  M.  distai.t  is  Upper 
liui'f/co^  built  on  the  grassy  sand-banks  of  u  small  isha;  luid  7  M.  N.  Ih" 
the  salmon-fishery  at  Gran(ly'.s  lirook,  on  tho  lino  of  the  N.  Y.,  N,  F.  and 
London  Telegraph. 

lieyond  the  liurgeo  Isles  tho  course  is  laid  along  the  Western  Shore,  and 
at  about  25  M.  the  massive  heights  at  the  head  of  Grand  iJruit  Hay  are 
seen.  6  M.  farther  on,  after  passing  Ireland  Island,  the  steamer  turns  into 
La  I'oile  Hay,  ii  narrow  arm  of  tho  sea  which  cleaves  the  hills  for  10  M. 
The  vessel  tiscends  3  M.  to  La  Poile  (Little  Hay),  a  small  and  decadent 
fishing-village  on  the  W.  shore. 

The  distance  from  La  i'oile  to  Chaimel,  the  last  port  of  call,  is  30  M., 
and  the  coast  is  studded  with  small  hamlets.  Gdiia  Buy  is  5-6  M.  W. 
of  La  Poile,  and  has  two  or  three  villages,  situatefl  amid  picturesque 
scenery  and  surrounded  by  forests.  Bose  Blanche  is  midway  betweei 
La  Poile  and  Channel,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  v/itii  nearly  500  inhabitants, 
situated  on  a  small  and  snug  harbor  among  the  mountains.  It  has  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  adjacent  fishing-settlements.  8  M  beyond  Rose 
Hlanche  are  the  Burnt  Inlands^  and  3  M.  farther  on  are  the  Dead  Islands. 
At  8-10  M.  inland  are  seen  the  dark  and  desolate  crests  of  the  Long- 
Range  Mountains,  sheltering  the  Codroy  Valley. 


2|i 


%\%      Route  62. 


PORT  AV  BASQUE. 


The  Dead  IslandH  (French,  Le,%  hlft  aux  Marts)  are  so  named  on  account  of 
the  many  fatal  wrecks  which  have  occurred  on  their  dark  rocks.  The  name  was 
ffiven  alter  the  Inwi  of  an  emigrant-ship,  when  tlie  iAluuds  were  so  fringed  with 
human  rorp.>*es  tiiut  it  took  a  gHiig  uf  men  five  days  to  l)ury  them.  Ueor^'  Harvey 
formerly  lived  on  on<'  of  the  ixlandH.  and  saved  hiindredM  of  lives  by  boldly  putting 
out  to  tlie  wrecked  ships.  About  IHJiU  tiie  Dis/intrh  struck  on  one  of  the  isles,  ithe 
was  full  of  inuiiigrants,  and  her  boat.><  could  not  live  in  the  heavy  gale  which  was 
rapidly  breaking  her  up.  Uut  Harvey  pushed  out  in  his  row-boat,  attended  only 
by  his  daughter  (li*  }ears  old)  and  a  boy  1*2  years  old.  He  lantled  every  one  of  the 
passengers  and  crew  (103  in  number)  safely,  and  fed  them  for  three  we<!ks,  inso- 
much that  his  fan.ily  had  nothing  but  fish  to  eat  all  winter  after  In  1888  the 
Glasgow  ship  liankin  struck  a  rock  otf  the  isles,  and  went  to  pieces,  the  crew  cling- 
ing to  the  stern-rail.  In  spite  of  the  heavy  sea,  Harvey  re.«cued  them  all  (26  in 
number),  by  making  four  trips  in  his  punt.  "  The  whole  roast  between  La  I'olle 
and  Cape  Ray  seems  to  have  been  at  one  time  or  other  strewed  with  wrecks  Every 
house  is  surrounded  with  old  rigging,  spars,  uia.sts,  sails,  ships'  bells,  rudders, 
wheels,  and  other  matters.  The  hou.ses  too  contain  telescopes,  compasses,  and  por- 
tions of  ships' furniture."   (Prof.  Jukes.) 

Channel  (ur  Poi-t  au  Busqut)  is  3-4  M.  W.  of  the  Dead  Isles,  and  30 
M.  from  La  Poile.  It  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  transfer-station  of  the  N.  Y., 
N.  F.  and  London  Telegraph  Company,  and  has  nearl}'  1,000  inhabitants, 
with  an  Anglican  church  and  several  mercantile  establishments.  The 
fisheries  are  of  much  importance,  and  large  quantities  of  halibut  are 
caught  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  miles  to  the  W.  is  the  great  Table  3ft., 
over  Cape  Ray,  beyond  which  the  French  Shore  turns  to  the  N.  A 
schooner  leaves  Port  au  Basque  every  fortnight,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
steamer  from  St.  John's,  and  carries  the  mails  N.  to  St  George's  Bay,  the 
Bay  of  Islands,  and  Bonne  Bay  (see  Route  Gl). 

The  steamer,  on  every  alternate  trip,  runs  S.  W.  from  Channel  to  Syd- 
ney, Cape  Breton.  The  course  is  across  tho  open  sea,  and  no  land  is  seen, 
after  the  mountains  about  Cape  Ray  sink  below  the  horizon,  until  the 
shores  of  Cape  Breton  are  approached.  / 

Sydney,  see  page  150.  .  _ 


61.    The  French  Shore  of  Newfoundland.  —  Cape  Bay  to 

Gape  St.  John. 

It  is  not  likely  that  any  tourists,  except,  perhaps,  a  few  adventurous  yachtsmen, 
vill  visit  this  district.  It  is  destitute  of  liotels  and  roads,  and  has  only  one  short 
and  infrequent  mail-packet  route.  The  only  settlements  are  a  few  widely  scattered 
fishing-villuges,  inhabited  by  a  rude  and  hardy  class  of  mariners  ;  and  no  form  of 
local  government  has  ever  been  established  on  any  part  of  the  shore  But  the  Editor 
is  reluetant  to  pass  over  such  a  vast  extent  of  the  coast  of  the  Maritime  Provinces 
witnout  some  brief  notice,  especially  ^ince  this  distiict  is  in  many  of  its  features  so 
unique.  The  Editor  was  unable,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  to  visit  the 
French  Shore  in  person,  but  has  been  aided  in  the  preparation  of  the  following 
notes,  both  by  gentlemen  who  have  traversed  the  coast  and  the  inland  lakes,  and 
by  various  statistics  of  the  Province.  It  is  therefore  believed  that  the  ensuing 
itinerary  is  correct  in  all  its  main  features.  The  distances  have  been  verified  by 
conipariiSon  with  the  British  Admiralty  charts. 

The  French  Shore  may  be  vi.'^ited  by  the  tradinp-schooners  which  run  from  port 
to  port  throughout  it.>r  whole  extent  during  the  sumn.cr  season.  The  most  interest- 
ing parts  of  it  may  also  be  seen  by  taking  the  mail-packet  which  leaves  Port  au 
Basque  (Channel)  fortnightly,  and  runs  N.  to  Bonne  Bay,  touching  all  along  the 
coast. 


account  of 
B  uame  wm 
riiigctl  with 
)rm'  Harvey 
l(il>  putting 
<•  iHleH.  }?lie 
»'  which  wus 
ti'udt'd  only 
y  one  of  the 
we<?ks,  inso- 

In  1H38  the 
0  crew  cling- 
ni  all  (25  iu 
LHMi  La  I'olle 
soks  Every 
'lis,  rudders, 
sea,  and  por- 


sles,  and  30 
ftheN.  Y., 
inhabitants, 
nents.  The 
halibut  are 
Table  Mt., 
the  N.  A 
rival  of  the 
e's  Bay,  the 


CAPE  RAY. 


MouUei.      217 


nel  to  Syd- 
ind  is  seen, 
until  the 


e  Bay  to 


s  yachtsmen, 
ily  one  short 
lely  scattered 
d  no  form  of 
;ut  the  Editor 
nie  Provinces 
its  features  80 

to  visit  the 
the  following 
id  lakes,  atid 

the  ensuing 
n  verified  by 

m  from  port 
lost  interest- 
ives  Port  au 
ill  along  the 


Th«  French  Shore  extends  trom  Cape  St.  John  (N.  of  Notre  Dame  Bay) 
around  the  N.  and  VV.  coaHta  of  the  iHland  to  Cape  Ray,  including  the  richent  vttl- 
leyi)  and  fairest  soil  of  Newfoundland  It  is  nearly  exempt  from  fogs,  horderfl  on 
the  most  prolific  fisliing-grnund.x,  and  is  called  the  "  Oiirden  of  Newfoundland  " 
By  the  treaties  of  1713,  17*53,  ami  1783,  the  French  received  the  right  to  cat<'h  and 
cure  fish,  and  to  crt-ct  huts  and  stages  along  this  entire  coast,  —  a  concession  of 
which  they  have  availed  themselves  to  the  fullest  extent.  There  are  sj'veral  British 
colonies  along  the  .shore,  but  they  live  without  law  i>r  magistrates,  since  the  heme 
government  helieves  that  such  appointments  would  be  agaiust  the  spirit  of  the 
treaties  with  France  (which  practically  neutralized  the  coast).  The  only  authority 
in  that  which  is  given  hy  courtesy  to  the  n'sideiit  clergymen  of  the  settlements. 

It  is  9  >I.  from  Channel  to  ('ape  Ray,  where  the  French  Shore  begins.  The  dis- 
tances from  this  point  are  given  aa  between  harbor  and  harbor,  and  do  not  represent 
the  stniight  course  from  one  outport  to  another  at  a  great  disttince. 

Cape  Kay  to  (Jodrov,  13  M. ;  Cape  A;iguille,  18  (Crabb's  Brook, 45;  Middle  Branch, 
60;  Robin.wn's  Point,  55;  Flat  Bay,  57;  Sandy  Point,  (55;  Indian  llead,  75) ;  Cape 
St  George,  54  ;  Port  au  Port  (Long  Point),  84  ;  Bay  of  Islands,  108  ;  Cafte  Gregory, 
125;  Bonne  Bay,  110;  (i««nCove,  147  ;  Cow  Harbor,  158  ;  Portland  Bill,  176  ;  Bay 
of  Ingornachoix  (Point  Rich),  20tj  ;  Portau  (Mioix,  208  ;  Point  Ferolle,  220  ;  Flower 
Cove,  245  ;  Savage  Cove.  249  ;  Sandy  Bay,  250;  Green  Island.  255;  Cape  Norman, 
285  ;  Pistolet  Island,  292;  Noddy  Harbor,  30(5 ;  Quirpon  (Cape  Bauld),  310  :  Griguet 
Bay,  321;  St.  Lunaire,  326;  Braha  Bav,33»;  St.  Anthony,  ^36;  Goost  Harbor 
(Hare  Bay),  340  :  Harbor  deVeau,  ;W8  ;  St.  Julien,  353;  Cni<iue,  358;  Conche,  373; 
Canada  Bay ,  387  ;  Great  Harbor  Deep,  410;  La  Fleur  de  Lis,  432  ;  LaScie,  455;  Cape 
St.  John,  460. 

•  Cape  Ray  is  the  S.  W.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  strikingly  pic- 
turesque in  its  outlines.  3  M.  from  the  shore  rises  a  great  table-moun- 
tain, with  sides  1,700  ft.  high  and  au  extensive  plateau  on  the  summit. 
Nearer  the  sea  is  the  Sugar  Loaf,  a  symmetrical  conical  peak  800  ft.  high, 
N.  of  which  is  the  Tolt  Peak,  1,280  ft.  high.  These  heights  may  be  seen 
for  50  M.  at  sea,  and  the  flashing  liglit  on  the  cape  is  vis  hie  at  night  for  20 
M.  From  this  point  St.  Paul's  Island  bears  S.  W.  42  M.,  and  Cape  North 
is  W.  by  S.  57  M.  (see  page  160). 

Soon  after  passing  out  to  the  W.  of  Cape  Ray,  Cape  Anguille  is  seen  on 
the  N.,  —  a  bold  promontory  nearly  1,200  ft.  nigh.  HetwctMi  these  capes 
is  the  valley  of  the  Great  Codroy  River,  with  a  farming  population  of 
several  hundred  souls ;  and  alo'ig  its  course  is  the  mountain-wall  called 
the  Long  Range,  stretching  obliquely  across  the  i.sland  to  the  shores  of 
White  Bay. 

St.  George's  Bay  extends  for  about  60  M.  inland,  and  its  shores  are 
said  to  be  very  rich  and  feriile,  abounding  also  in  coal.  The  scenery 
about  the  hamlet  of  Crabb's  Brook  "forms  a  most  lovely  and  most  Eng- 
lish picture."  There  are  several  small  hamlets  around  the  bay,  of  which 
Sandy  Point  is  the  chief,  having  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches.  The 
people  are  rude  and  uncultured,  fond  of  roaming  and  advonture;  but  the 
moral  condition  of  these  communities  rank.*  high  in  excellence,  and  great 
deference  is  paid  to  the  clergy.  The  Micmac  Ind  ans  are  often  seen  in 
this  vicinity,  and  are  partially  civilized,  and  devout  members  of  the  Catholic 
Church.  The  country  to  the  E  is  mountainous,  merging  into  wide  grassy 
plains,  on  which  the  deer  pass  the  winter  season,  roaming  about  the  icy 

levels  of  the  great  interior  lakes. 
10 


'If 


'1 


'■  i 


218      Route  61. 


GRAND  POND. 


I 


!' 


i 


Grand  Pond  is  usually  (and  rarely)  Tioited  fVoin  St-  George's  Bay.  After  as* 
ceudiiig  the  broud  sound  at  the  head  of  the  bay  for  about  10  M. ,  a  blind  forest- path 
is  ent«r«d,  and  the  Indian  guides  h-ad  the  way  to  the  N.  E.  over  a  vant  expanse  of 
nionH  (very  uncomfortable  tmvellinp).  The  Ilare-liead  Hills  are  passed,  and  after 
about  15  M.  of  arduous  niurehing,  the  tniveller  reaehes  the  Orand  I'oiid.  *'  And  a 
I)eautiful  fight  it  was.  A  narrow  strip  of  blue  watt-r,  widening,  as  it  jmveeded,  to 
about  2  M.,  lay  between  bold  rocky  pn-c  ipires  coverccl  with  wood,  and  rising  almost 
directly  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  S-WIO  ft.,  having  bare  tops  a  little  farther 
back  at  a  still  greater  elevation."  The  IJay  Indians  keep  canoes  on  tlie  pond,  and 
there  are  several  wigwams  on  the  shores,  (ian.e  and  fish  are  abundant  in  these 
woods  and  waters,  since  it  is  but  on<e  in  years  that  tlie  all-slaying  white  man 
reaches  the  pond,  and  the  prudent  Indians  kill  only  enough  for  their  own  actual 
needs.  There  is  a  lofty  island  20  M.  long,  on  each  side  of  which  are  the  narrow  and 
ravine-like  cliannels  of  the  pond,  with  an  enormous  depth  of  water.  The  route  to 
Hall's  Bay  (see  page  211)  leads  up  the  river  front  the  N.  E.  cirner  of  the  pond 
for  about  35  M.,  parsing  through  four  lakes.  From  the  uppermost  pond  the  canoe 
is  carried  for  ^  M.  and  put  into  the  stream  which  emjities  into  Hall's  Bay.  3  M.  W. 
of  the  inlet  ot  this  river  into  (Srand  I*ond  is  the  outlet  of  .lunction  Brook,  a  rapid 
stream  which  leads  to  the  liuniber  River  and  Deer  Pond  in  8-10  M.,and  is  {Missable 
by  canoes,  with  frequent  portages. 

Near  the  N.  end  of  CJnind  I'ond,  about  the  year  1770,  occurred  a  terrible  battle 
between  the  Micmacs  and  the  lied  Indians,  which  resulted  in  the  extermination  of 
the  latter  nation.  The  Micmacs  were  a  Catholic  tribe  from  Nova  Scotia,  who  had 
moved  over  to  Newfoundland,  and  were  displacing  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  the 
Red  Indians,  or  Btt>othics.  lii  the  grcjit  battle  on  Grand  I'ond  the  utmost  deter- 
mination and  spirit  were  shown  by  the  Bocothics,  invaded  hen;  in  their  innermost 
retreats.  But  they  had  only  Itows  and  arrows,  while  the  Micmacs  were  armed  with 
guns,  and  at  the  close  of  the  battle  ut-t  a  man,  woman,  or  child  of  the  Red  Indians 
of  this  section  was  left  alive. 

This  n>gion  is  densely  covered  with  fore.-sts  of  large  trees  (chiefly  fir  and  spruce), 
alternating  with '' the  barrens,"  vnst  tnu-ts  which  are  covered  with  thick  moss. 
Gov  Sir  John  Harvey,  after  careful  inspection,  claims  that  the  barrens  are  under- 
laid with  luxuriant  soil,  while  for  the  cultivation  of  grasses,  oats,  barley,  and  pota- 
toes there  is  '•  no  country  out  of  Englaml  or  Egvpt  sujH'rior  to  it  *"  The  intense 
and  protracted  cold  of  the  winter  seasons  will  pn'clude  agriculture  on  a  large  scale. 

These  inland  solitudes  an*  adorned,  during  the  short  hot  summer,  with  many 
brilliant  flowers.  Among  these  are  gi-eat  numbers  of  wild  roses,  violets,  iri.-es, 
pitcher-plants,  heather,  maiden-h:iir,  and  vividly  colon-d  li«'hens  ;  while  (sajs  Sir 
R.  Bonn.vcastle)  "  in  the  tribe  of  lilies,  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  ex(eedcd  not  the 
beauty  of  those  produced  in  this  unheeded  wilderness.""  The  only  whitv  uian  who 
ever  yet  crossed  these  lonely  lands  from  shore  to  shore  was  a  Scotchnuin  named 
Cormack,  who  walked  from  Trinity  Bay  to  St.  George's  Bay,  in  18*22  He  was  ac- 
companied by  a  Micmac  Indian,  and  the  trip  took  several  weeks.  The  mnps  of 
Newfoundland  cover  this  vast  unexplored  region  with  conjectural  mountains  and 
hvpothetical  lakes.  The  British  Admiralty  chart  of  Newfoundland  (Southern  Por- 
tion) omits  most  of  these,  but  gives  minute  and  valuable  topographical  outlines  of 
the  lakes  and  hills  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Desjiair,  the  Red-Imlian  Pond,  and  River  of  Ex- 
ploits, and  the  region  of  the  Grand  Pond  and  Deer  Pond,  with  their  approaches. 

Cape  St.  George  thrusts  a  liupe  line  of  precipices  into  tlie  S'Oa,  nnd  5  .M. 
beyoiul  is  Red  Idtmd^  surroutided  i>y  (inrk  red  clin's.  25  M.  farther  to  the 
N.  K.  is  the  entrance  to  Port  au  Port,  a  great  double  harbor  of  noble 
cMpacity.  It  is  separated  from  St.  George's  Bay  by  an  isthmus  but  1  M. 
wdo,  at  the  W.  base  of  the  great  Table  Mt. 

The  *  Bay  of  Islands  afVonls  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  tlie  Province, 
and  is  sheltered  by  several  small  but  lofty  islands.  The  soil  along  the 
shores  is  said  to  be  deep  and  productive,  and  adapted  to  raising  grain  and 
produce.  Limestone,  gypsum,  and  fine  marble  are  fcmnd  here  in  large 
quantities.  There  are  about  1,500  inhabitants  about  the  bay.  See  S.  G,W. 
lienjauiiu's  ill u.-truted  article,  in  'flic  i.'intunj  Muijndnt.  Aluv,  1884. 


HUMBER  RIVER. 


Route  61.      219 


After  ao- 
forest-path 
expunge  of 
I,  and  after 
1.  "And  a 
■Ci-eedt'd,  to 
Mng  HlmoRt 
ttle  farther 
'  pond, ond 
,nt  in  these 
wliitR  man 
own  actual 
narrow  and 
he  route  to 
nf  the  pond 
d  the  runoe 
f.  3M.W 
[)ok,  a  rapid 
1  Ir  pasKable 

■rible  battle 
Diination  of 
la,  who  had 
bitants.  the 
tmost  deter- 
r  innermost 
armed  with 
lied  Indians 

ind  spruce), 

thick  moss. 

are  under- 

.',  and  pota- 

The  intense 

lar^re  scale. 

witli  many 

lets,  iii-es, 

(sajs  Sir 

ed  not  the 

uiuu  \s  ho 

nan  named 

le  was  ac- 

le  maps  of 

ntains  and 

them  I'or- 

outlines  of 

liviT  of  Ex- 

roaehes. 

,  and  5  .M. 
ther  to  tlie 
of  noble 
s  but  1  M. 


Province, 
along  the 
jrrnln  and 
e  in  larpe 
eS.G.W. 
884. 


At  the  liead  of  the  bay  is  the  mouth  of  the  Humher  River,  tlie  largest  river 
in  Newfounill;ind.  In  the  last  18  M.  of  its  course  it  is  known  oh  the  Ht'mber  Sounrt, 
and  is  1  -2  M.  wide  and  60 -6()  fathoms  deep,  with  lofty  and  ru)?pM|  hills  on  either 
Bile.  Great  quantities  of  timber  are  fousid  on  these  shores,  and  the  tn)ut  and  sal- 
mon fisheries  arc  of  considerable  value.  The  river  tiows  into  the  head  of  the  sound 
in  a  narrow  and  swift  current,  and  is  ascended  by  boats  to  the  Deer  I'ond.  Occa- 
sional cabins  and  clearings  are  seen  along  the  shores,  inhabit«Ml  by  boiil  and  hardy 
pioneers.  3  M  above  the  head  of  the  sound  there  is  a  rapid  1  M.  long,  up  which 
boats  are  drawn  by  lin«'H.  Here  '•  the  scenery  is  highly  striking  and  picture>que,  — 
lofty  cliffs  of  pure  white  limestone  rising  abruptly  oiit  of  the  wcM)ds  to  a  height  of 
3  4()()  ft  ,  and  beiiig  themselves  clothed  with  thick  wooil  round  their  sides  and 
over  their  sunmnts."  Above  the  nipids  the  river  traverses  a  valley  2  M.  wide,  filled 
with  birch-groves  and  hemmed  in  by  high  hills.  The  stream  is  broad  and  shallow 
for  6  M.  above  the  r^tpi  1-S  where  another  ^eries  of  rapids  is  met,  above  which  are  the 
broad  waters  of  ♦  ijeer  Pond,  2-3  M.  wid»'  an<l  1.0  M.  long.  Here  is  the  undis- 
turbed home  of  deer  and  smaller  game,  loons,  gulls,  and  kingfishers  A  few  Micmac 
Indians  still  vi.<it  these  solitudes,  and  their  wigwams  are  seen  on  tlie  low  savannas 
of  the  shore     (See  also  pages  211  and  218  ) 

'•  Beyond  the  fort'st-covered  hills  which  surround  it  are  lakes  as  beautiful,  and 
larger  than  L.ake  (Jeorge,  the  cold  dear  waters  of  which  flow  to  the  bay  under  the 
name  of  the  river  Ilumber.  It  hiw  a  valley  like  Wyoming,  and  more  romantic 
scenery  than  the  Susquehanna.  The  Hay  of  islamis  is  also  a  bay  of  streams  and  in- 
lets, an  endless  labyrinth  of  cliffs  and  woods  and  waters,  where  the  sunnner  voyager 
would  delight  to  wander,  and  which  is  worth  a  volume  sparkling  with  pictures." 

Bonne  Bay  is  23  M.  N.  E.  of  tlie  lisiy  of  Islands,  and  is  a  favorite  re.'^ort 
of  American  and  I'rovijicial  fislienncn.  Cireat  (iuantitie.<4  of  herrinj;  are 
CHUght  in  this  vicinity.  The  mountains  of  the  coast-range  closely  ap- 
proach the  sea,  forming  a  bold  and  striking  prospect;  and  the  rivers  which 
empty  into  the  bay  m.iy  bo  followed  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Long  Range. 

The  coast  to  the  N.  N.  W.  for  nearly  70  M.  is  straight,  with  the  slight 
indentations  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul  and  Cow  Hay.  The  Hoy  of  Imjin'na- 
choix  has  comparatively  low  and  level  shores,  with  two  excellent  har- 
bors. On  its  N.  point  (Point  Uich)  is  a  lighthouse  containing  a  white 
flashing-light  which  is  visible  for  18  M.;  and  2  M.  K.  is  the  fishing-station 
of  Port  nu  Choix,  whence  considerable  quantities  of  codfish  and  herring 
are  exported.  The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  dotted  witli  islands,  and  receives 
the  River  of  Castors,  tlowing  from  an  unknown  point  in  the  interior,  uud 
abounding  in  salmon. 

"  What  a  region  for  romantic  excursions  I  Yonder  aro  wooded  mountains  with  a 
sleepy  atmosphere,  and  attractive  vales,  and  a  fine  river,  the  lliver  t'astor,  flowing 
from  a  country  almost  uiiex|iiored  ;  .lud  here  are  green  j>les  spotting  the  .sea.  —  tho 
islands  of  St  John,  llehind  them  is  an  expanse  of  water,  alive  with  fish  and  fowl, 
the  extremes  of  which  are  lost  in  tlu;  deep,  untntubled  wilderness.  A  month  would 
not  suffice  to  find  out  and  enjoy  its  manifold  and  pictun-siiue  beauties,  through 
which  wind  the  deserted  trails  of  the  Rod  Indians,  now  extinct  or  l)anish'jd.'' 

The  Bay  of  St.  Join  is  sep-irated  by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  St.  Mar- 
garet's  Btiy  (on  the  N.),  on  which  are  the  stations  (if  ytn^  Fen-llt  and  Olti 
Ftrolh  .  Beyond  tho  Bavs  of  St.  (Jcnevieve  and  St.  Barbe,  with  their  few 
score  of  inhabitants,  is  Flower  Core,  containing  a  small  hamlet  and  an 
Episcopal  church.  The  great  sealing-grounds  of  tho  N.  shore  are  next 
traversed;  and  the  adjacent  co;ist  loses  its  mountainous  chtiructer,  tind 
sinks  into  wide  plains  covered  with  grass  uud  wild  grain. 


r 
■  ■' 


220      Route  (it.  STRAIT  OF   \mU,K  IHLR. 


" 


The  Strait  of  lUUe  hit. 

Tho  Struit  of  Uollo  Islo  in  now  onl«'r«»<l,  inid  on  tlio  N.  is  llio  lofty  ftnd 
biu-ttMi  shore  of  l,iilini<lor  (or,  IT  it  l»o  ni^lit,  tln»  (IxotI  li^lit  on  Point 
Anionr).  A<«  (livon  Isltuul  is|i!»»sotl,  tho  liftl  (Uif^,  on  \\w  Ijiltnnlor  slioro, 
iiro  soon  Ml  uliont  10  M.  diHlimfo.  I'lio  low  lini»"<fon(»  rlilVs  of  tlio  Nnw- 
fonixiliUKi  slioro  in*o  now  rollow(>(l  to  tlio  N.  K.,  innl  iit  .'!(»  M.  beyond  (Jrnon 
Inland,  Capo  Norman  Is  romdiod,  with  its  n»volvinjr  lijrhf  npludd  on  tlin 
bloak  dn'!uin«'»s  of  the  s|>r«\ -swept  hill.  This  cupo  is  the  most  northorly 
point  o(  Newfo\tndlt»nd.  -=> 

The  SiU'n<i  lalnvth  nvo  I'i  M.  S.  K.  hy  I!,  fnun  Cupe  Norniiin,  imd  Hoon 
nrtor  psissiiig  tluMti  the  hunilet  i^\'  Quirpou  is  n|»proiH'hed.  This  pliuM^  in 
sitnated  on  Qnirpon  Island,  4  degn'i»H  N.  of  St.  .lohn's,  and  is  devoted  to 
the  Healing  hnsinoss.  It  has  an  Kpiseop!,!  ehnreh  and  cemetery.  Mnltl- 
tudos  o(  seals  are  eanjjht  olV  this  point,  in  the  great  «MU're?it  which  8ots 
fixnn  the  n-mote  N.  into  tho  Strait  of  Melh*  Isle.  llnndnMls  of  ieehnrgn 
may  somotimes  ho  seen  honee,  moving  in  stately  pn>eession  np  tin*  striilt. 
In  t'nMit  of  (^)»iirpon  are  the  eold  highl.'intls  of  .la«pies('!ntier  Island.  Oipe 
limihi  is  the  N.  p«)int  of  tho  island  of  Qnirpon,  and  the  ntost  northorly 
p«>int  of  tho  l'n)vineo. 

14  >I.  N.  of  ('«!>»»  Hnulil,  nni\  niitlwny  to  tlto  l.i»hm«lor  short',  In  It4)ll««  Inlo,  In  tho 
«ntrHn<<>  of  Mu>  sirtiit.  It  is  {M.,  M.  lonn;  inxi  !<  M.  Iinwtl,  nnti  in  iilt«rl\  Imrn'n  nn«l 
uihmoIUhMo.  On  it^  S.  (loint  in  h  loii«>ly  liglillioum',  4V()  It.  above  the  nea,  r'tiptain- 
iuK  H  ti\Ml\v)in«>  light  Ml)i<-h  li«  visilile  for  2S  M.  DuriDg  (he  it«*iiM<  aiul  liliiKling 
snow-,slornis  tijat  elteii  t'wiip  ovt'r  tlie  struit.  n  ninnon  ts  flnMJ  at  regular  hitrrvnls; 
unit  larjn*  iio(HWiit,'4  i>f  provi^ioll^  Hn>  kept  hen*  tor  tlie  um>  o(  ^l)i|l^vl'«  eked  ntMriiiers. 
IWlwtHMi  Dm',  li")  «n»l  Ajuil  1  then*  Is  n«»  light  exhil'ited,  for  the-e  northern  «•««  are 
tlien  »tes»'rt«s|,  save  l\v  a  few  tiarhig  M>al-liunt4<rs.  Tla-n'  Is  J>ut  i»iie  ponit  where  tlio 
itiland  ean  Ih<  appnviehed,  whieli  is  I  V^  M.  tVoni  the  lighthouse,  ami  lieie  the  storHM 
Are  laiiiltNl.  Tlieiv  is  not  n  Inv  or  even  a  bush  on  th(>  islam*,  ami  eoal  Is  hnporU'd 
lV>nu  Quelnv  to  warm  the  hou.-e  of  the  keeper,—  who.  though  vi>lleit  luit  iwlee  n 
>4>ar,  i^  bappx  and  eontenled.  The  path  ftiau  llie  landing  iseut  through  thu  moss- 
coveivd  ro«  k.  and  lead.s  up  a  long  and  .>>(t ep  a.MiMit. 

In  th(>  >«>Mr  irt27  "a  Canon  of  .'^l.  I*aul  in  London,  whieh  was  n  girat  nialhenuitl- 
rian,  and  a  man  iudued  with  wialth,"  sailed  for  tlH<  Now  \\()rld  with  twti  ships, 
vhieli  were  titled  «iut  b>  Kiug  n<<nr>  VIII.  After  they  had  gone  to  the  w eh t ward 
fur  mMn>  da.\s.and  had  pa.«.M>d  "  great  Hands  of  lee,"  they  renehed  ^*  the  ninynn 
land,  all  wiUierne^^e  and  n.ttuntaiiies  and  w(M<des,nnd  no  natunill  gi*onnd  but  all 
«u>NM>,  and  no  habilation  i.or  n«)  pet^ple  in  thes*'  pjirts."  The\  eutered  the  Htralt  of 
lit  lie  Is.o.  and  then  "  there  HroM>  a  great  and  a  nuirnailous  great  storme,  and  UiUih 
loul  weather."  dining  whieh  the  shijw*  were  separatetl.  The  eaptain  of  tlie  Mnry  of 
iiutljoul  wiO(ehenieioiurri.ii:g  hi>i  oLMirt-^hip:  "  I  trust  in  AheightieJesu  t«>heaie 
g(¥><l  newes  of  her":  lut  no  ti«ling>  ever  eanie,  and  situ  was  prulmbly  lost  in  the 
Miait,  will)  all  «tn  boanl 

'the  i.^lundi^  of  Kelle  l^le  and  Qiiiipon  were  called  the  XtiXe^  of  DeiiioiiH  in  the 
n^nu^te  |vj«>t,  and  the  av.tient  luapf  n  present  theui  as  covered  with  "devils  rain- 
I^'Uit,  witli  wings.horns.ai.il  IjiI.s  "  The>  were  ndd  t«>befaHinatiiig  but  malicious, 
niid  AndiVThivct  ex»>ui>td  ihcin  fi-om  a  band  tif  sliicken  Indians  by  repenting  a 
jvirt  of  the  tuv-iH*!  of  !St  .lohu.  The  mariners  feaind  to  land  t>n  tlic-e  haunled 
ish«>n's,  anil  "  when  lhe>  piih^-d  this  way,  they  heanl  in  the  air.  on  the  tojm  and 
nlnnit  the  n  asls,  a  great  clanior  of  men's  vi>iies,  confus«>d  and  iiartiinlate,  Mich  an 
)ou  max  hear  firm  the  cu>wd  at  a  lair  or  uiarkci-place;  when'upon  they  well  knew 
that  the  Ifle  of  I>en.ons  was  m>t  farotT."  The  brare  but  superstitious  NornianH 
dan^i  not  land  on  the  l^jibrndnr  without  the  i  rucitix  in  hand,  l»elieving  that  thone 
floomy  shore.t  were  guarded  by  great  and  terrible  griffins.    Tbe>«  *|uaiQt  legends 


STRAIT  OF   BELLE  ISLE.  UnuU  67.      221 


!  l(»fty  fttid 
[  on  Point 
ulor  oliorp, 
tho  Now- 
•oimI  (iinon 
(>li|  on  tlin 
.  norllnMly 

,  iind  Honn 
in  pliu'P  l« 
(Icvotoil  to 
•y.     Miiltl- 

)!'  ioi'borgs 
I  tli{>  HtniU. 
imhI.  Cape 
I  noi'tlH'ily 


IhIo<  In  tho 

iiui  MtndiiiK 

kir  Intrrvnln  ; 

•i|  marinn'H. 

<rn  wMiM  iir»i 

t  wlirn»  tho 

i<  the  NiorHM 

in  iin|iort<>d 

hut  twiro  a 

ll  thV    IIIOHM- 

i)\iith«<niHtl- 

I    two  l«hi))H, 

h«"  wi'htwartl 
tho  nmviiH 
luiul  but  hII 
the  ytralt  of 
;>,  Hlid  liiUiU 
(iio  Mary  of 
h>su  to  home 
h)8t  in  tho 

loiiH  ill  tlie 
dovilf  rHiii- 
It  niiiiii'iuUH, 
ropoiitiiiK  n 
o.-o  hitiiiitod 
10  t()})H  nnd 
llt«'.  ^uoh  HH 
>  Will  kuow 
iiH  NorinanH 
:  ihnt  thow 
Riut  leg«u(U 


undonbtodty  hnd  n  fprA  jiMindntInn  Tn  •Tiily,  1R78,  thAroMtn  nf  i\w  Htmlt.  of  l)«11« 
Inln  won*  mviiKod  hy  hiiiidn  of  limnotiMo  wolvoo,  who  dovoiirod  Mvprtil  huiimn  bf!lnf(fl 
and  iH'iilPKod  tito  noitloiiM'iit^  tor  workn. 

An  (inoiont  M.^    nf  lOHU  rolato«  a  oiiriutiH  h-i^cud  fif  IlolM  Fsif      Among  th*"  rom- 

(mny  on  tho  Hoot  which  ssn»  roiidiiotiMl  throii(,(li  tho  Htrnltx  t«»  (|iio)mio  hi  IM2,  worn 
ho  lirtdy  Marniiorilo,  itlooo  tif  tho  Viroruy  of  Now  Kniiioo,  aimI  hor  loror.  TiM'ir 
ootidiirt  was  Hiioh  a«  tn  havo  Honiidallwil  tic  flcot,  and  whoii  thoy  roiohod  th«  IcIm 
nf  noniotm,  llohcrval,  oiiriiK''d  at  hor  rthaiiirli>^4iM>H<),  put  hor  on  nhoro,  with  hor  old 
niU'Ko.  Tho  lovor  loapcd  finni  llio  Hhip  and  jnini'd  rho  woiiioti,  and  tiio  Moot  nailHl 
Nwny.  Thoii  tho  ilciiHiiin  and  llio  hoHtM  of  h<'.l  li«>){in  tliiir  aHHaiiltM  on  tho  forKftkoii 
trio,  loAring  niioiit  their  lint  at  ni^lit,  iiicna<  ing  thoin  on  tho  Hlioro,  and  aMMiiltiiiK 
thoni  in  tho  fon'Ht  Hut  tho  |ionitoiit  Kinnorn  wi>ro  t^nardcd  hy  Invinihio  huidf*  of 
MaintN.  and  kopt  from  peril.  Aftor  iimny  montliM,  woarl«d  hy  tlioiw  flondlMli  artnaiiltn, 
tho  lovor  diod,  and  wm*  hooii  fullowod  hy  tho  nurM*>  and  tlio  oliild  l<ong  thoronftt-r 
llrnd  IVIarKiiorito  alono,  until  ftnally  a  IImIiImk-vohwI  ran  In  warily  toward  th«  xmokM 
of  her  flre,and  r«<m?no<|  hor,  aft^T  two  yoarM  of  llfo  amoiiK  domniiR. 

Fnun  CiiiK^  Ihiiiltl  tlio  ('oimt  riMM  S.  Ity  Ihr  I'ronch  K<Miliii^-Htfttionn  of 
(irign*  I,  St.  Luniiiro,  Hriihii,  ninl  St.  Anthony,  to  tho  (loop  indontntioii  of 
//fire  Uayy  whlcli  Ih  1H  M.  lon)<  nnd  0  M.  w  ido.  A  nliort  diHtanco  to  tho  S. 
la  tlto  flno  Imrhorof  (!r<H/ur,  a  fiivorifn  ro«ort  for  tho  Kronoli  floota  nnd  a 
coaling  Htiitioti  lor thu  »teiiinoi'H.  lliu  buck  country  i»  diHtrml  to  tin;  lujit 
dogroo. 

To  tho  H.  K  an'  tho  larifo  inlandi*  of  Onwilf*  (7  ■  8J  M.  in  aroa)and  H»"!lo  Tn]o<9  ^  H 
M.).  Iluniiinit  niiw  to  tlio  S  W  tiv  i'ap)<  ICoiik*'  and  Uotitot,  (Jontdio  II  irlHir  i<«iionn 
on  tho  fftarhoard  liow,  and  (7iiiut(lii  liity  i-*  oponod  on  tho  \V.  Thi-<  groa'  tmy  ia 
!2  M.  lontr.  and  l*  ontorod  ttll'o,l^||  ai  iiitrioato  paxMat^o  rallod  tho  Nnrrovn,  h«>yond 
whioh  It  wldoiiH  Into  a  HII fo  and  iiipii  ioim  Ihixlti  'I  ho  HhoroH  aro  noiitary  and  do* 
aortod.and  far  inland  an'  won  tlio  urt-nt,  hill-raii)f)H  oallod  Tiio  ('ioudn.  7  M.  t,o  the 
H.  W.  Ih  tho  cntraiiro  to  Moo  iii^  [|arltor,aiid  f»  M.  fiirthor  S.  Ih  Konrfhott4',  12  M. 
hoyond  whirh  l-»  <irrnt  lln'lnir  Ihrfi,  a  long  and  narrow  ontiiary  with  Hurh  a  dopth 
of  wator  tint  vohkoIm  oaniiot  anolior  in  it.  ThiM  Ih  at  tho  \V.  ontranro  nf  Whit* 
Hay,  and  in  I  i  M    from  t'artridgo  roint,  tho  K  ontranr«>. 

iVIlll*^  llfiy  in  a  fitio  Mhoot  of  wat4>r  45  \1.  long  and  10  -  Ifi  M  wido.  It  in  rnry 
do<'|i,  and  han  iio  IhIjikIh  ox<  opt  huoIi  at  aro  cIom!  in  nhoro  Tho  flnhorioM  aro  rar- 
rlod  on  hont  to  a  «"onHldorahlo  oxU'nt,  and  at  t'at  Oovo,  .laokHon'N  Arm,  tJhoniic 
lh'(N>k,  WiHomiin^H  (!ovo,  Hoal  t'ovo,  and  \A>hnUrr  llarhor  aro  itmail  Hottlomonta  nf 
ronidont  fl.^horiiion.  i'hnu.%'  lintok  U  nituati-d  amid  nohio  wonory  noar  tho  hoail 
>f  tho  hay,  (ill  M.  hy  boat  from  ha  Hrio.  On  tho  iiighlandH  t/i  tho  \V  and  H  of 
Whit'.'  Hay  aro  tho  liauntH  of  the  doer,  whioh  aro  UHually  ont^trod  from  ILiira  flay  or 
(il:-(M)n  Hay. 

3  M.  S.  K.  of  I'artridgo  iNiint  m  La  Fleur  flv  IJ»  Inirltor,  ^^o  natnod  from 
tlio  .siintilation  of  tlio  royal  flosvor  hy  a  group  of  tliroo  !ii1Ih  noar  itn  hoa<l. 
Kuiminjc  tlu'nco  to  the  K.,  tho  otitrancoH  of  Littjo  l^iy  and  .MingN  hight 
o|)on  on  tho  starboard  sido,  and  on  tho  port  bow  tiro  tlio  St  Harbo,  f»r  Mor-e 
Islands.  About  20  M.  froju  La  Flour  do  LU  Ih  Ln  Sric,  tho  last  settle 
incnt  on  tlio  Froiu'li  Sboro,  with  its  tliioo  rfsjdiMit  fain  lios.  A  rf)ad  loads  S. 
7  M.  from  this  point  to  Shoo  Oivo,  on  tho  Hay  of  Notro  Damo  (soe  page 
211);  and  5  M.  K.  of  La  Scio  is  •Cape  St.  John,  tho  boundary  of  the 
Ficiirb  Slioro  on  tlio  Atlantic. 

"  Tho  ('a|H'  Ih  in  full  viow,  a  promontory  of  shaggy  prooipico<<,  suggostlve  of  all  the 
Ihiids  of  I'andoiiioiiiinii,  rutlior  than  tho  lovely  Apostio  wIioho  nunio  has  U^-n  glb- 
hutod  on  tho  bla4-k  and  dismal  crags.  .  .  .  As  we  heur  down  toward  the  (Jafio.  we 
pasH  (lull  Islo,  a  more  pile  id'  naked  rocks  di!,i<>ately  \\n>'tthe<|  with  laro-like  niiflt«. 
Iiuaginu  tho  lant  hundred  foot  ofi 'on wax  l*oak,t'io  very  fino.Ht  of  the  Now-llampshim 
mountain-tops,  pricking  alH>ve  the  waves,  and  you  will  mw  thii  little  outp<Mt  and 


222      Route  61. 


CAPE  ST.   JOHN. 


:i 


breakwater  of  Cape  H.  John."  (Noble.)  The  C'ajie  pn\<H5nt8  by  far  the  grandest 
Bceucry  on  thi>  K.  coaMt  of  NewfuiiiHlliiiid,»iid  i«  an  uiibrokoii  wall  of  black  rock, 
4-600  ft.  high  and  5  M.  long,  agiiinHt  whu.'^e  iuuncdiatu  biUNV  the  d<!t'p  sea  hweups. 

••Of  thf,  lanoks  or  hAimAnoa  and  Haccalaos,  i,vino  West  and  NoRT^-^VKST  from 
Knolvndk,  and  hkinok  v.wuv.  or  tiik  fiumk  i.andk  of  tuk  Wkst  1m»ik.s. 

"  Manv  hiiiH'  tntuiihed  to  warrli  tlw  roiist  of  i\w.  I«nd«  of  liiiborndor,  aH  well  to 
the  iHt(>nt<>  !o  knowc  how*'  fiiri"  or  wlixtlin-  it  n-a*  iH'.he,  wn  n.t^o  wbettivr  tliiTc  hue 
an>  paK-ag»' by  sea  through*'  tiicMin.e  into  the  t'ca  ol'Siirand  the  l^lan«l«^<ot  Miiiura, 
wiii«  harrnnd)'!' tlic  K(|uiiiiN  tiall  li.ii' :  thiiik.Mi^ctliat  the  wayetbythi'rhbnlde greatly 
hvv  Hlioit«M)«'d  by  thi^  v.>a^:e.  Tlic  Spnn,\aide."«,  ax  to  whose  ryglit  the^a.^dc  i^lundef«  of 
ppitt'H  pertey!ie,  d\df\i>t  n'lke  to  l.\  iide  the  Hnn;e  by  tliin  way.  Th*>  I'oitiigalefl 
hIm)  luiuynge  tlie  tratU*  ol  8|)i(«'^  in  tlie.>r  linndeH,  d}d  truiun  ie  (to  f>  nde  tlii>  Mime: 
althongii  lu'therto  nt*\tli«'i-  nii,\e  Korhe  pa.<'Sii(;e  w  fonnde  or  thr  ei.de  of  tliat  lande. 
In  the  }(>!in>  a  tlionxnnde  and  line  hnndredtli,  (hu<par  (.'ortosrvaleN  made  a  vyoge 

thyther  witli  two  earaueIle^< ;  bnt  tonnd  not  tin-  sireyght  or  pa.x^«ge  be  .songlit 

Ilegr».'atly  niarnayled  to  beliolde  tlie  bonge  quantitie  of  isnowc  and  ine  For  the 
sea  is  there  frozen  exee<iyngly.  Thinliubitunntes  are  men  of  good  eoiporature,  al- 
thongh  tawny  like  the  Indiess,  and  laboiionH.  Tliey  paynte  theyr  liodyes,  and  weare 
bra«!lettes  and  hnoi)es  of  .sylner  and  copper.  Tlieyr  apparel  is  made  of  tbe  ^kynneH 
of  n»artern«>H  and  dyvers  otiier  beantes,  \vbi«'h««  they  wean;  with  the  heare  inwarde  in 
wynu-r,  and  ontwarde  in  soonin.er.  This  appirell  they  gyrdr 'o  the\r  bodjK'.s  with 
gyrdela  niade  of  eott«)n  or  the  !<ynewes  of  f\.>^she«  and  b^•a^tes.  They  eate  fy.'.Hlio 
more  than  any  otber  thynge,  and  especially  wiinionH,  altboiighe  they  have  touled 
and  frnte.  They  make  the^  r  h()n>es  of  timber,  whereof  thry  hiiuc  great  pltntie: 
and  in  the  stoade  df  tyles,  couer  them  witli  the  skynnes  of  fyssbes  and  biastes.  It 
in  said  also  that  there  arc  grift's  in  this  land:  and  that  the  bcares  and  n  any  other 
beastes  and  fonles  are  white.  To  thin  and  the  islande.s  iibonte  the  san  e,  tbe  ItiitonH 
ar»»  accnstonied  to  re^ortc  :  as  n.en  of  natnre  agn'table  vnto  tben>,  and  born  vnder 
the  same  altitnde  and  tenijwntture.  The  N«>rway«  al.M>  sa\  led  tb.\ther  with  the 
pylotcanled  .lolin  Seoluo:  and  tbe  Kngl.Nsbc  u:cn  with  Sebastian  ('alot. 

"  The  coii«it«  of  the  lande  of  Ibucalaos  is  a  gieate  tratte,  and  the  altitude  thereof 
is  xlviii  degre«>H  and  a  halle.  ^ebnstian  I'al  ot  was  the  fyrst  tliat  brought  any  knowl- 
eage  of  thi«  land.  For  J  eing  in  Englnntie  in  tbe  dayes  of  Kyng  Ilcnry  tbe  Hmenth, 
he  fnniysluMl  two  ship))es  at  \\'\<  owne  charges  or  (as  sone  say)  at  the  kynges,  whom 
he  (H>r.snmied  that  a  |»assagi'  might  bee  found  to  Cathay  by  the  Nortli  Sea^,  and  that 
ppices  mygtit  Im'c  browght  from  tlHn.-e  soner  by  that  way,  then  by  the  v^agc  the 
Portngales  v>e  Ity  the  S«'a  of  Snr.  He  win t  also  to  know e  what  nianer  of  landeii 
tho.H'  Indies  were  to  inhabitc.  lie  had  withe  hyni  tiOOmen,  and  dire«  ttd  bis  (our.>-e 
by  the  tricte  of  islande  nppon  tb«'  ('ai)e  of  Laborndor  at  Iviii  degrees  :  atlirmynge 
that  in  the  nionethe  of  .Inly  tlu'jv  was  such  <<)uld  and  be.'iiM'sof  i.-c  that  lie  durst 
passe  no  further  :  also  that  the  d.iyes  were  very  longc,  and  in  maner  withowt  njight, 
and  the  nyghtcs  very  cleare.  Certeyne  it  is,  that  at  the  Ix  degrees,  tbe  longest  day 
Is  of  xviii  hoiu'es.  Hut  «onsyderynge  the  eonlde  and  tbe  straungeness  of  the  un- 
knownc  lan*le,  he  turned  his  coune  from  then.-c  to  the  West,  folowiioge  the  coast 
of  the  land  of  Hacealaos  vntotlic  xxxviii  degrees, from  whvn.se  be  returned  to  Eng- 
lande.  To  conclude,  the  Mrylons  and  Danes  have  sfiylcA  to  the  Baccalaos  ;  and 
J «<'ques ('artier,  a  Frenchman,  was  there  twy-v  with  three  f.aleons. 

"  Of  these  lands  Jacobus  HastaMus  wryteth  Mius  :  '  The  Newe  land  of  Ib.e<alao.s 
ifl  a  coulde  region,  whoso  inhabyttiunteN  an;  idolitours,  and  praye  to  tbe  ."oone  and 
nioone  and  d\  vers  idoles.  Tlu'y  are  whyte  j<eopl  •,  and  very  rustical.  For  tlu'y  cate 
Hesshe  and  tVsshe  and  e.il  other  thynges  nivnt.  Sumtynies  al.'-o  they  eate  mans 
ttesshc  priuil\e,  .so  that  theyr  faciijui  have  in.  linowleage  tliereof.  Tbe  apparell  of 
both  the  nicn  and  women  is  nuide  ot  beares  skyi.nes,  although  they  have  j-ahles  and 
marternes,  not  gn-atly  eslu'cmed  because  they  are  lyttle.     Some  of  theiM  go  naked  in 

soonicr,  .ind  we:ire  apparel!  only  in  wyntcr Northwarde  from  the  region  of 

Baeealaos  is  the  land  of  Laltorador,  all  tiill  of  mountiiynes  andgrcjit  woodes,  in  whiche 
are  nian\»' bc.'ires  and  w  \  Ide  luvires.  Tiiinhiiliit.iniitc-i  are  idolatoures  an*l  warlike 
jM'oplc,  apparelled  as  are  tlicy  of  Ibu  calaos.  In  all  this  newe  lande  is  neyther  citio 
or  castell,  but  they  lyve  iu  companies  lyke  h.eurdes  of  beastes  '  " 


grandest 
lack  rock, 
Kwceps. 


,VF.ST  FROM 
M>IK». 

H8  well  to 
r  tlu're  bee 
ot  ISlaluca, 
Ule  greatly 
ihlaiidvH  of 
PoitiigHleH 
till*  hiune: 
tliut  luiide. 
U'  H  vyiigo 

"Kilt 

For  the 
>ratun',  al- 
,  and  wearo 
he  hky lines 
inwarde  in 
odjcs  with 
eate  fysxlio 
have  loule8 
at  i»Wiitle: 
iKastes,  It 
1  any  other 
the  HiitonH 
liorn  vnder 
>r  with  tho 

.ule  thereof 
any  knowl- 
le  Siuenth, 
ges,  whom 
,  and  tliat 
vjiige  (he 
of  tundeM 
his  (our.-e 
iitnnnynge 
t  he  dui'^t 
owt  njght, 
ongest  day 
of  the  un- 
tile coast 
ed  to  Eng- 
aiaos  ;  and 

Hi.cialnos 
snone  and 
r  they  eate 
eate  mans 
appjirell  of 
rallies  and 
(o  naked  in 
ix'gion  of 
in  whlche 
nd  warlike 
jyther  citie 


LABRADOR 


Is  the  ^rcat  peninsulnr  portion  of  North  America  which  h'os  to  tl>e  N.  nnd 
N.  W.  of  NnwfcMunlhind,  iind  is  limited  by  tlie  (Jiulf  of  St.  LiiwriMice,  tho 
ocean,  and  Hudson's  May.  It  extends  from  abont  50"  N.  latitude  to  HO", 
nnd  the  cllmiite  is  cxtrenudy  rigorous,  the  mean  tem|)eratnre  at  Nain 
bein^  32"  6'.  Tho  land  is  covered  with  low  monntains  and  barren  plateaus, 
on  which  are  vast  plains  of  moss  inters[)erscd  with  rocks  and  bowlder". 
There  are  no  forests,  and  the  iidand  re^fion  is  dotted  with  lakes  and 
swamps.  There  are  reindeer,  bears,  foxes,  wolves,  and  smidler  game; 
but  their  nnmber  is  small  a.  1  decreasin<;.  The  rivers  and  lakes  swarm 
with  fish,  atid  the  whole  coast  is  famous  for  its  valuable  fisheries  of  cod 
and  salmon.  At  least  1,000  decked  vessels  are  en^;ii;(!d  in  the  Labra- 
dor fisheries,  and  other  fleets  are  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  seals.  The 
commercial  establishments  here  are  comi<Hted  with  the  great  firms  of 
England  and  the  Channel  Islands.  Tho  Ks(juimaux  poj)ulation  is  .steadily 
dwindling  away,  and  |)robably  consists  of  4,000  souls 

"The  coast  of  liabmdor  is  tho  odge  of  n  vast  solitude  of  rocky  hilN,  spjft  nnd 
blasted  by  the  frosts,  and  beaten  >»y  the  waves  of  tho  Atlantic,  for  unknown  ages. 
Every  form  into  which  rocks  can  be  washed  and  broken  is  visible  al'iug  its  almost 
interminable  shores.  A  grand  headlnid,  yellow,  brown,  and  black,  in  its  horrid 
nak(HlnesH,  is  ever  in  sight,  one  to  the  north  of  yon,  one  to  the  south  Hero  nnd  there 
upon  them  arc^  stripes  and  patches  of  jcilc  green,  —  mosses,  lean  gnisses,  and  dwarf 
shrubbery.  Occa.sionally.  miles  of  precipice  front  the  .eea,  in  which  the  fincy  niny 
roiifflily  shape  all  the  stnictnres  of  human  art.  — castles,  palaces,  and  temples.  Im- 
agine an  entire  side  of  Hroad.vny  piled  »ip  Kolidiv,  one,  two.  three  hundred  feet  in 
heisflit,  often  more,  and  exposed  to  the  charge  of  the  great  Atlantic  rollers,  rush- 
ing into  the  churches,  halls,  and  spacious  buildings,  thiuidering  through  the  door- 
ways, duxhing  in  at  the  \viiilr)\vs,  xwci'ping  up  the  lofty  fronts,  twistitin  the  very 
cornices  with  silvery  spr.iy,  filling  bnck  in  bright  green  scrolls  and  ca- cades  of  sil- 
very fotini  ;  and  yet,  all  this  inia<rined,  can  never  re.ic  h  the  sentiment  of  these 
precipices.  More  frequent  than  headlinds  and  [M'rp<»ndicnlnr  sea-fronts  are  the 
."•ei-Jlopes,  often  bald,  tame,  and  wearisome  to  the  jnc,  now  anrl  tbeii  tlie  perfection 
of  all  that  is  picture<(|ne  and  rouurh,  -a  precipice  pone  to  pieco.i,  its  softer  por- 
titms  dissolved  down  to  its  roots,  its  tiintv  bones  left  stan«Iing.  a  savage  scene  that 

si-ares  away  all  thoughts  of  order  and  de«iirn  in  nature This  is  the  ro«y  time 

of  Labrador  (.Inly).  The  blue  interior  hills,  nnd  the  stonv  vales  that  wind  up 
among  them  from  the  ,-ien,  have  a  suinnier-like  and  pleasant  nir.  I  find  mv^elf 
peopling  these  regions,  and  dotting  their  hills,  v.ilUjys,  and  wild  «hores  with  human 
inbitJitions.  A  second  thought  —and  a  mournful  one  it  \<  —  tells  nie  that  no  men 
toil  in  the  fields  away  there  :  no  women  keep  the  house  off  then* :  there  no  childn'n 
play  by  the  brooks  or  shout  arointd  the  country  school-house  :  no  bees  come  home 
to  tho  hive;  no  smoko  curls  from  the  farm-house  chinuiey  :  no  orchard  blooms; 
no  bleating  sheep  fleck  the  mountiiin-'^ides  with  whiteness,  ainl  no  heifer  lows  In 
t'le  twilight.    There  is  nobody  tliere ;  then"  never  was  but  n  niiserubie  and  pcat- 


j 

i. 


224      Route  C2. 


BATl'LE  HARBOR. 


tered  few,  and  there  never  will  be.  It  Is  a  great  and  terrible  wilderness  of  *.  thou- 
><and  niilt>8,  and  ionc-oiiiu  to  the  vurv  wild  uuinialtt  and  birds.  lA:it  to  the  still  vis- 
it.i.tiou  of  the  ligiit  troui  t.iu  mui,  uioou,  and  Htarn,  aiitl  thu  auroral  tires,  it  is  only 
fie  to  Ux)k  upon  and  tiicn  lie  Kiv«-u  ov«>r  to  its  priiufval  soliiiiriiu'.^s.  Hut  for  tliu 
living  thJnKf<of  its  svateiv,  —  tiic  cod,  tlx*  s.i.inon,  and  tne^«'al,  —  'xiiich  liriuK  t.iou- 
sands  of  luivfiitmous  ti.shenuuu  and  traders  to  its  bleak  shores,  Labrador  would  be 
as  desolate  as  tin'tMilaiid. 

"  For  a  few  davs  tiie  woolly  flocks  of  New  England  would  tiirive  in  Labrador. 
Luring  these  few  da>s  tlu-re  are  thousands  of  hei-  fair  daughters  wtio  would  love  to 
tend  them.  1  propiie.-^.v  the  time  is  eoaiing  when  the  invalid  and  tourist  from  the 
8tates  will  be  often  found  spt-nding  the  brief  hut  lovely  summer  here,  notwitU8t4;ud' 
ing  its  rugg(>duess  and  desolation ''   (Rkv    L.   L.  Noble) 

"  Wihl  aiv  the  waves  wliieh  lash  the  reefs  along  St.  iJeorge's  bank  ; 
Cold  on  the  coast  of  Labrador  tne  fog  lies  wnite  and  dank  ; 
Througli  storm,  and  wave,  and  liiinding  mist,  stout  are  the  hearts  which  man 
The  ti.shing-smaekH  of  Marblehead,  the  sea-boats  of  Cape  Ann. 

••  The  eold  north  light  au<l  wintry  sun  glare  on  their  icy  forms, 

Bent  grimly  o'er  tlieir  straining  lines,  or  wrestling  with  the  storms ; 
Free  as  the  winds  they  drive  iM'fore,  rough  as  the  waves  they  roam, 
They  laugh  to  scorn  the  slaver's  threat  against  their  rocky  home." 

John  0.  Whittier. 

62.  The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Labrador,  to  the  Moravian  Mis- 
sions and  Greenland. 

The  mnll-steamer  leaves  Battle  Harbor  fortnightly  during  the  summer  (see  page 
200,  for  distances). 

Battle  Harbor  is  a  sheltered  foiidsteiul  between  the  Battle  Islands  and 
Great  Caribou  Island,  ^  M.  long  and  quite  narrow.  It  is  a  great  re.sort  for 
fishermen,  whose  vo.'sels  crowd  the  harbor  and  are  moored  to  the  bold 
rocky  shore*.  Smnll  houses  and  stages  occupy  every  poijjt  along  the 
sides  of  the  roM.lsteiul,  .mikI  the  place  is  very  lively  during  the  fishing  sea- 
son. On  the  W.  i«  Crisnt  (''Mril)ou  Ishuid,  which  is  9  M.  aroun<l.  and  the 
steep-shored  S  K.  Battle  Inland  is  the  easternmost  land  of  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  water  is  of  great  depth  in  this  vicinity,  and  is  noted  for  its 
wonderful  ground-swell,  which  sometimes  sweeps  into  St.  Lewis  Sotmd  In 
lines  of  immense  waves  during  the  calmest  days  of  autumn,  dashing  high 
over  the  islets  and  ledges.  An  Episcopal  church  and  cemetery  were  con- 
secrated here  by  Bishop  Field  in  1850,  and  the  n(  )hew  of  Wordsworth 
(the  poet)  was  for  some  years  its  rector.  The  first  Esquimaux  convert 
wa*  baptized  in  lFr)7. 

Fox  H'lrbor  i>  3-4  hours'  sail  from  Battle  Island,  across  St.  Lewis 
Sound,  and  is  an  Esquimaux  village  v.ith  igloes.  kayaks,  and  other  curious 
things  pertaining  to  this  utiiqne  people  There  is  a  wharf,  projecting  Into 
the  narrow  liarbor{  which  resenil)les  a  mount.iiii-lake);  and  the  houses  are 
clustereil  about  a  humble  little  Episcopal  church.       «. 

"  rnrlbon  T«1an«1  fronts  to  the  N.  on  the  bay  A  -fi  M  ,  T  should  think,  and  Is 
a  rnppi'd  mountain-jii'e  of  dark  grnv  rook,  rounded  in  it>*  upper  masses,  ami  slsished 
along  i's  shores  wif'»  jibrupt  ehasii's.  It  drops  sbort  off,  at  its  eastern  ex^re'td^'', 
l»ito  n  narrow  gulf  of  deep  water.  This  is  H'lttle  H'irbor.  The  billowy  pile  of  iirneons 
r«x*k,  jierhaps  '2/)0  ft  high,  l>  ing  between  this  quiet  water  and  the  broad  Atlantic,  ii 
Battle  Island,  and  the  site  of  the  town At  this  moment  (July)  the  rocky  isle, 


SANDWICH  BAY. 


Rmtie  62.      225 


bombarded  by  the  ocean,  and  flayed  by  the  8word  of  the  bla/<t  for  monthn  in  tbe 
year.  In  a  littlo  paraUixc  of  lieanty.  Thenj  lire  fleIdH  of  iiiofwy  cnrp<'t  that  ninkR  be- 
nehth  the  foot,  witn  hv\U  of  nuv.\\  ditlicatu  tlovvvrs  as  one  M*ldoiii  r<<>«8.  .  I  hare 
never  Keen  Huch  fiiry  l()v<>lim>8»  an  I  flixl  here  iipnii  this  lilrak  ixlft,  wliere  nature 
Meiiifl  to  liavu  b<;eii  pluviiig  at  Hwitzt-rland.  (iie^'ti  and  >l>I1o\v  miosm-m,  ankliwdcep 
and  spotted  wit  a  blood-rcd  stains,  carpvt  thf  crai^H  and  litti«>  vaicn  and  c-radle-like 
hollows.  >Vondfrful  to  Iwhold  I  t1ow«T»  pink  ami  wliinv  jcllow,  nd,  and  blup,  nre 
countlctis  aM  dow-drops,  and  hreathc  out  upftn  tlx;  piiro  air  tlicir  odor,  po  spirit-like. 
....  Littlt;  gorgoH  and  oliasniH,  ovcrhiaiK  with  niiniatiin>  pn>(  ipirt-s,  wind  f;mr(>fully 
from  the  sunimitM  down  to  uitrt  the  wavcH,  and  an;  fiiird,  when;  tlie  sun  can  warm 
ttieni,  with  all  bloom  and  Hweetnctu*,  a  kind  of  wild  greenhouse." 

The  course  is  laid  frojn  Battle  Hiirbor  N.  across  St  Lents  Sound,  which 
is  4  M.  wide  and  10  M.  deep  (to  Fly  Island,  beyond  which  is  the  St.  Lewis 
Rivei',  which  contains  myriads  of  salmon).  Passing  the  dark  and  rapped 
hills  (500  ft.  hiph)  of  Cape  St.  Lewis,  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  small 
buc  secure  haven  of  Spear  Harbor,  where  a  short  stop  is  made.  The  next 
port  is  at  St.  Francvt  Harbor,  which  is  on  Granby  Island,  in  the  estuary 
of  the  deep  and  navigable  Alexis  River.  An  Episcopal  church  is  located 
here.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  precipitous  insulated  rocks,  rising  from 
the  deep  sea.  The  harbor  is  ^  M.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  is  deep  and 
well  protected,  beinp  also  a  favorite  resort  for  the  fishing  fleets. 

Cape  St.  Michael  is  next  seen  on  the  W.,  11  M.  above  Cape  St.  Francis, 
with  its  mountainous  promontory  sheltering  an  island-studded  bay.  Be- 
yond the  dark  and  rugged  Sqmire  Island  is  the  mail-fjort  of  Dead  Island. 
Crossing  now  the  mouth  of  St.  Michael's  liay,  and  passing  Cape  Bluft' 
(which  may  be  seen  for  60  M.  at  sea),  the  steamer  next  stops  between 
Venison  Island  and  the  gloomy  clilfs  beyond.  Running  next  to  the  N., 
on  the  outside  of  a  great  archipelago,  the  highlands  of  l*artridge  Bay  are 
slowly  passed. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  24  M.  N.  E  of  Cape  St.  Michael,  and  18  M.  beyond 
is  Spotted  Island,  distinguishe<l  by  several  white  spots  on  its  lofty  dark 
cliffs.  To  the  K.  is  the  great  Island  of  Ronds,  near  which  is  Batteau  Har- 
bor, a  mail-port  at  which  a  call  is  made.  The  next  station  is  at  Indian 
Tickle,  which  is  a  narrow  roadstead  between  Indian  Island  and  the  high- 
lands of  Mulgrave  Land.  Stopping  next  at  S.  K.  Cove,  the  course  is  laid 
from  thence  to  Indian  Harbor,  on  the  W.  side  of  Huntington  Island.  This 
island  i«  7  M.  long,  and  shelters  the  entrance  to  Sandwich  Bay  (the  Esqui- 
maux Netshnctcke),  which  is  6-9  M.  wide  and  54  M.  deep,  with  13-40 
fathoms  of  water.  There  are  many  picturesque  islands  in  this  bay,  and  on 
the  N.  shore  are  the  Mealy  Mts.,  reaching  an  altittide  of  1,482  ft.  On  the 
W.  side  are  Eagle  and  West  Rivers,  filled  with  salmon;  and  East  River 
runs  into  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  coming  from  a  large  lake  where  immense 
numbers  of  salmon,  trout,  and  pike  may  be  found.  4  M.  from  the  mouth 
of  East  River  is  the  small  settlomcjit  of  Paradise. 

At  the  head  of  this  prreat  bay  are  Thf  Nnrrnwf,  with  Mount  Nat  and  its  bold 
foothills  on  the  S.  •'  On  <'ither  side  hills  towered  to  tiie  liei^ht  of  a  thousand  feet, 
wooded  with  spruce  flrom  base  to  sunimit,  and  these  twin  escarpments  abutted  ranges 

10*  O 


226       RouU  Gt.  MORAVIAN   MISSIONS. 


of  bold  blutfc  whoHfi  sha^IowH  ceenicd  almost  to  nu'et  midway  in  the  narrow  channel 
that  M»parHt<'d  tht»in.  Tlirnnjth  tliis  jjnind  (rlnoiny  portal  thew  waH  an  unbrolten 
vista  tor  miles,  until  the  cIiuiiim'I  made  an  aWi'upt  turn  that  hid  the  watt>r  from 
view:  Init  Mu' unvir  >?or(;e  coiitinnt'tl  on  liesond  till  it  was  lost  in  li»lue  HJiadow.*' 
On  the  N  shoriMif  the  Narrows  is  the  Hudson's  Hay  Company's  posted"  Klg;ol«tte, 
oooupjiun  the  site  olan  olde-r  l-'reneh  tradiiij;-st.iti(in.  At  ti«e  head  of  the  NarrowH 
Is  Melville  Lake,  a  fj;reat  inland  sea,  all  alonjr  whose  S.  shore  are  tlie  weird  and  won- 
derful voU-anic  peaks  of  the  lofty  Mealy  Mountains.  120  M.  S.  \V.  of  Ki^rolette,  by 
this  rt)ut<',  is  the  il.  B.  ('o?npany's  |)()st  of  N<»r«veMt,  situated  a  little  way  up  the 
N  W.  IJiver,  near  j^reat  spruce  fon-sts.  This  is  tiie  e..i(  f  trailiufj-post  »»f  the  Moun- 
tiineers,  a  tribe  of  the  ^rreat  Cn'e  nation  of  tiie  \V«'.-t,  and  a  tall,  >;rareful,  and  spir- 
ited p<'ople  In  1S40  they  lir>t  oiMMied  eonununication  with  the  whites.  It  was  tiiia 
tribe,  whiili,  issuiu)?  from  tlie  interior  hijfhlands  in  resist  less  forays,  nearly  extiT- 
minated  the  Ks({uimaux  of  tiie  coast  300  M  from  Fort  Norwest  is  tort  i\'tisro/>i«, 
8ituati>d  on  the  lleifrhts  of  Lmd,  far  in  tlie  dark  and  solitary  interior.  In  that  vicin- 
ity are  the  Grtiiid  FuIIh,  which  Mie  voyanfurs  claim  are  l.lKiO  ft.hiKli,  but  Factor 
M'Li'an  says  are4iK)ft.  hijjh, — and  below  them  the  broad  river  tljushes  down  through 
a  canon  3(H)  ft.  ikM'p,  for  over  30  M.  300  .M.  from  Fort  Nascopie  arc  the  shores  of 
Ungava  Bay.  (The  Ksquimaux-Bay  district  i.s  well  described  in  an  article  by  Charles 
Hallock,  liarp  ••'«  Mar-  nu,  Vol.  XXII  ) 


The  Moravians  ns  ';  -x  the  Ksquimaux  are  a  proud  and  ent<'rprising  people,  low 
in  stature,  with  •-  *  ..j  ie,«M"es,  small  hands  and  feet,  and  black  wiry  hair.  The 
men  an?  expert  in  fisliing, «  >  in^;  seals  and  mana^iufi;  the  li.i^ht  and  graeeful  boat 
called  the  kayak,  which  outride;  the  rudest  surjres  of  the  sea;  while  the  women  are 
fikilful  in  making  g^irments  from  skins.  Agriculture  is  impossible,  because  the 
country  i.s  covered  with  snow  and  ice  for  a  (j^reat  part  of  tln^  year.  I'hey  call  them- 
selves Inniiils  ("men"),  the  t«'rm  Ex/tiiniaar.  (meaning  "caters  of  raw  flesh") 
being  ap))lied  to  theiu  by  the  hostile  tribes  to  the  W.  On  the  oUO  .M.  of  the  Atlantic 
coa.st  of  Labrador  there  are  about  1,(MR»  of  tliese  people,  most  of  w,\om  have  been 
converted  by  tlie  Moravi  ins.  They  live  about  the  missions  in  winter,  and  assemble 
from  the  remotest  points  to  celebrate  tin;  mysteries  of  the  l*as.-^ioii  Week  in  the 
churches.  They  were  heathens  and  demon-worshippers  until  1770,  when  the  Mora- 
vian Brethren  occupied  the  coast  under  |K'rniission  of  the  British  Crown  Tliey  were 
formerly  much  more  numerous,  but  have  been  reduced  by  long  wars  with  the 
Mountaineers  of  the  interior  .md  by  the  nivaj^es  of  the  small-pox.  The  practice  of 
iKilygamy  has  ceased  among  the  tribes,  and  their  marritges  are  ( elebrated  by  the 
Moravian  ritual.  The  nii-sionaries  do  considerable  trading  with  tlie  Indians,  and 
keep  mag;i/jnes  of  provisions  at  their  villages,  from  which  the  natives  are  freely  fed 
during  seasons  of  f.imine.  At  each  station  are  a  church,  a  store,  a  n  is.sion-house, 
and  shops  and  warm  huts  tor  the  converted  and  ( ivili/x>d  Ks({iiimaux,  wiio  are  fast 
learning  the  mechanic  arts.  The  Moravian  mission-ship  makes  a  yearly  visit  to  the 
Labrador  stjition.  replenishing  the  supplies  and  carrying  away  cargoes  of  furs. 

Hope<lal«  is  3iK»  .M.  N.  W.  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  is  one  of  the 
chief  .Moravian  missions  on  the  Labrador  coast  It  was  founded  in  1782  by  the  en- 
voys of  the  church,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  centr«'  of  civiliising  influences  on  this 
divary  coast.  Its  last  statistics  claim  for  it  35  houses,  with  iO  famities  and  248  p<'r- 
sons  ;  49  boats  and  4!)  kayaks;  i>.nd  a  church  containing  74  communicants  and  85 
baptized  children.  The  mean  annual  temperature  here  is  27"  >^2'.  The  church  is  a 
neat  plain  l)uililiiig,  wlu-re  the  nun  and  wouumi  occupy  opposite  sides,  and  Uerman 
hymns  are  sung  to  the  aiconipaniment  of  the  violin. 

Main  is  about  8t)  M.  N.  W.  of  Ilopedali-,  and  has  about  30o  inhabibints,  of  whom 
95  are  communicants  and  'J4  are  baptiaed  children.  It  was  founded  by  three  Mora- 
vians in  1771,  and  occupies  a  beautiful  position,  facing  the  ocean  from  the  Itottoin 
of  a  narrow  haven.  It  is  iii  57°  N  latitude  (same  latitude  as  the  Hebrides),  and  tiie 
thermometer  sometimes  marks  75  '  in  summer,  while  spirits  f||K'/.e  in  the  intensecoid 
of  winter.  OHa^  is  about  120  .M  N.  \V  of  Nain,  towiirds  Hudson  Strait,  and  is  a 
very  successful  mission  w  hicli  dates  from  1776.  Tlie  station  of  Htbrou  is  still  farther 
up  the  coast,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants. 

Far  away  to  the  N.  K.,  across  the  broad  openhigs  of  Davis  Strait,  is 
Cape  Desolation,  in  Greeniaiul,  near  the  settlements  of  JuUanshaab. 


CHATEAU  BAY. 


Route  63.      227 


63^   The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

At  Battle  Harbor  the  Northern  Co-.istal  steamer  connects  with  the 
Labrador  mail-boat,  which  proceeds  S.  W.  across  the  mouth  of  St,  Charles 
Channel,  and  touches  at  Ca|)o  ('hurles,  or  St.  Charles  //(t/-6f»/-,  entering;  be» 
tween  Kishflake  an<l  Hlackbill  Islands.  This  harbor  is  deep  and  i^ecure 
(though  small),  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  the  fishcnnen.  A^  the  steamer 
passes  the  Cape,  the  round  hill  of  St.  Charles  iiniy  be  seen  about  1  M. 
inland,  and  is  noticeable  as  the  loftiest  highland  in  this  district.  Nigi 
Sound  and  the  Camp  Islands  (250-300  ft.  high)  are  nej^t  passed,  and  u 
landing  is  made  at  Chimney  Tickle.  1^  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Camp  Islands  is 
Torrent  Point,  beyond  which  the  vessel  passes  Table  Head,  a  very  pic- 
turesque headland,  well  isolated,  and  with  a  level  top  and  precipitous 
sides.  It  is  200  ft.  high,  and  is  chiefly  composed  of  symmetrical  columns 
of  basalt.  To  the  S.  are  the  barren  rocks  of  the  I'eterel  Isles  and  St. 
Peter's  Isles,  giving  shelter  to  St.  Peter's  Bay.  In  the  S.  K.  may  be  seen 
the  dim  lines  of  the  distant  coast  of  Belle  Isle.  On  the  N.  is  the  bold 
promunt(try  of  Sandwich  Head.  The  deep  and  ir- tow  Chateau  Bay  now 
opens  to  the  N.  VV.,  guarded  by  the  clitls  of  Vor^  P  it  (I.)  and  Chateau 
Point  (on  Castle  Island,  to  the  r.),  and  the  strimoi  .  scends  its  tranquil 
sheet.  Within  is  the  noble  Hord  of  Temple  Buy^  5  M.  long,  and  lined  by 
lofty  highlands,  apj)roache(l  through  the  Femplo  Pass.  On  the  r.  is  the 
ridge  of  the  High  Beacon  (959  ft.).  Chateau  is  a  small  permanent  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  large  area  of  flsh-stageg  In  the  autumn  and  winter 
its  inhabitants  retire  into  the  back  country,  for  the  sake  of  the  fuel  which 
is  afforded  bj'  the  distant  forests.  The  port  and  harbor  are  named  for  the 
remarkable  rocks  at  the  entrance.  There  are  fii'.e  trouting-streams  up 
Temple  Ba}';  and  vast  numbers  of  curlews  visit  the  i^-lands  in  August. 

•'  This  castle  is  a  most  remarkable  pile  of  basaltic  rook,  rislnp  in  vertical  roluninii 
from  ail  insulated  bed  ot  Ki'<niite.  Its  liei|;ht  from  the  level  ot  the  ocean  is  upward 
of  200  ft.  It  is  composed  of  regular  live-sided  prisms,  and  on  all  hides  the  ground  is 
strewn  witii  single  blocks  and  clusters  tlitit  have  l>ecome  detached  and  f-illen  from 
their  places.  ...  [It]  seemed  like  some  grim  fortress  of  the  feudal  atres,  from  whose 
embrasures  big-mouthed  cannon  were  ready  to  belch  forth  tiameand  smoke.  On  the 
very  verge  of  the  paraix't  across  stood  out  in  liold  relief  in  the  gleaming  ntooDliglit, 
like  H  sentinel  upon  his  watch-tower."    (IIallock,  describing  Castle  Island.) 

Chateau  was  formerly  conside«>d  the  key  of  the  northern  fisheries,  and  its  pos- 
session was  hotly  contested  by  the  Ki:glish  and  French,  At  the  tin  e  of  the  de- 
population of  Acudia  a  number  of  its  people  fled  hither  and  estai)lished  a  strong 
fortress.  This  work  still  remains,  and  consi.-ts  of  a  itastioned  star-fort  in  masonry, 
with  gun-platforms,  magazines,  and  lilo(  k-hou>es,  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse,  be- 
yond which  were  eartliworks  anil  lints  of  stockaih's.  It  was  al*andoiieil  in  1753. 
and  is  now  overgrown  with  thickets.  In  17*>3  a  liritish  garnson  was  located  at 
Chateau,  in  order  to  protect  the  fisheries,  but  the  place  wa.<  captured  ui  1778  l»y  the 
American  privateer  JMinfrr/i,  and  3  vessels  and  1!70,(MM)  worth  of  property  were 
carried  away  as  priiBes.  In  171X>  the  post  was  again  attacked  by  a  French  fleet.  A 
long  bombardment  ensued  between  the  frigates  and  the  ahore-batterics,  and  it  wa« 
not  until  their  anununition  was  exhausted  that  the  liritish  troops  retreated  into  the 
back  country,  atter  having  burnt  the  village.  In  1535  the  French  exploring  flee) 
under  the  command  of  Jaqui^s  C»rtier  a^Kijuibl^d  ber^. 


if 


228      JtouUeS.       STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 


After  emerging  from  Chntenu  Bay,  the  course  is  laid  around  York 
Point,  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  in  entered  (with  Belle  Isle  itself  18 
M.  E.).  The  Labrador  coast  is  now  followed  for  about  25  M.,  with  the 
stern  front  of  its  frowning  cliffs  slightly  indented  by  the  insecure  havens 
of  Wreck,  Barge,  and  Greenish  Bays.  Sadclle  Island  is  now  seen,  w  th 
its  two  rounded  hills,  and  the  steamer  glides  into  Red  Bay,  an  excellent 
refuge  in  whose  inner  harbor  vessels  sometimes  winter.  Largo  forests  are 
seen  at  the  head  of  the  water,  and  scattering  lines  of  huts  and  stages  show 
ev  deuces  of  the  occupation  of  the  hardy  northern  fishermen.  Starting 
once  more  on  the  voyage  to  the  S.  W.,  at  7  M.  from  Red  Bay  are  seen  the 
Little  St.  Modeste  Islands,  sheltering  Black  Bay,  beyond  which  Cape 
Diable  is  passed,  and  Diable  Bay  (4  M.  W.  S.  W.  of  Black  Bay).  3  M. 
farther  to  the  W.  the  steamer  enters  Lovp  Bay,  rounding  high  red  cliffs, 
and  touches  at  the  fishing-establishment  and  hamlet  of  Lance-au-Loup 
(which  views  the  Newfoundland  coast  from  Point  Ferolle  to  Cape  Nor^ 
man).  Field-ice  is  sometimes  seen  off  this  shore  in  the  month  of  June. 
Gapt.  Bayfield  saw  200  icebergs  in  the  strait  in  August. 

The  course  is  now  laid  to  the  S.  W.  for  3-4  M.,  to  roimd  Point  Amour, 
which  is  at  tlie  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  and  has  a  fixed  light,  166  ft. 
high,  and  visible  for  18  M.  From  the  Rod  Clilfs,  on  the  K.  of  Loup  Bay, 
it  is  but  11  M.  S.  S.  E.  to  the  coast  of  Newfoundlam'. 

"  The  Battery,  as  sailora  call  it,  is  a  wall  of  rod  saiulstone,  2-8  M.  in  extent,  with 
horizontal  lines  extentliiig  from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  and  perttendlcular  fissures 
resembling  embrasureH  and  gateways.  Swelling  out  with  grand  proportions  toward 
the  sea,  it  has  a  most  inilit.iry  and  picturesiiitu  appi-arance.  At  one  point  of  this 
huge  citadel  of  solitude  there  is  the  ri'seinblance  of  a  giant  portal,  with  stupendous 
piers  200  ft.  or  more  in  elevation.  They  are  much  broken  by  the  yearly  assaults  of 
the  frost,  and  the  eye  darts  up  the  ruddy  ruins  in  surpri-e.  If  there  was  anything 
to  defend,  here  is  a  Uibraltar  at  hand,  witii  comparatively  small  labor,  whose  guns 
could  nearly  cross  the  strait.  Beneath  its  pre*  ipitous  dill's  the  debris  slopes  like 
a  glacis  to  the  beach,  with  both  smooth  and  broken  surlii-es,  and  all  very  hand- 
somely decorated  with  rank  herbage The  red  sand-tone  shore  is  exceedingly 

picturesque.  It  has  a  right  royal  presence  along  the  deep.  Lofty  semicircular 
promontories  descend  in  regular  terr.ices  nearly  down,  then  sweep  out  gracefully 
with  an  ample  lap  to  the  margin.  No  nrt  could  produce  better  effect.  The  long 
terraced  galleries  are  touched  with  a  tender  green,  and  the  well-hollowed  vales,  now 
and  then  occurring,  and  ascending  to  the  distant  iiori/.on  between  ranks  of  rounded 
hills,  look  g^en  and  pasture-like Among  the  very  pretty  and  refreshing  fea- 
tures of  the  coast  are  its  brooks,  seen  occasionally  falling  over  the  rocks  in  white 
cascades  Harbors  are  passed  now  and  then,  with  small  fishing-Heets  and  dwell- 
ings."  (XOBLE.) 

The  steamer  enters  Forteau  Bay,  and  runs  across  to  the  W.  shore,  where 
are  the  wlilte  houses  of  a  prosperous  fishing-establishment,  with  an  Epis- 
copal church  and  rectory.  About  the  village  are  seen  large  Esquimaux 
dogs,  homely,  powerful,  and  intelligent.  This  bay  is  the  l)est  in  the  strait, 
and  is  much  frequented  by  the  French  fishermen,  for  whose  convenience 
one  of  the  Jersey  companies  has  established  a  station  here.  On  the  same 
side  of  the  harbor  a  fine  cascade  (100  ft.  high)  is  seen  pouring  over  the 
clifi's,  and  the  fresh-water  stream  which  empties  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
contains  large  numbers  of  salmon. 


64. 


BLANC  SABLON. 


Route  61      229 


7  M.  beyond  Fortenn,  Wood  Island  Is  passed,  and  the  harbor  of  Blanc 
8'iblon  is  entered.  To  the  W.  are  Unulore  Bay  and  Bonne  Fsperaiicc  Bay, 
with  their  tradinp;-stati()ns;  and  a  few  miles  to  tlie  N.  \V.  arc  tlie  Bradore 
Hills,  several  rounded  summits,  of  which  tlie  chief  is  1,264  ft.  high. 

Blano  Sablon  is  on  the  border-line  b«»tween  the  sections  of  Labrador 
■which  belong,  the  one  to  the  Province  of  Quebec,  the  other  to  Newfound- 
land. It  Is  named  frouj  the  white  sands  which  are  brought  down  the 
river  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Several  of  the  great  fishing-companies  of 
the  Isle  of  .Jersey  have  stations  here,  and  the  harbor  is  much  visited  in 
summer.  Blanc  Sablon  is  at  the  VV.  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle, 
and  It  is  but  21  M.  from  the  Isle-ii-Bois  (at  the  mouth  of  the  bay)  to  the 
Newfoundland  shore.  The  village  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  remarkable 
terraced  hills.  On  Greenly  Island,  just  outside  of  the  harbor,  32  sail  of 
fishing-vessels  were  lost  on  the  night  of  July  2,  1866. 

Following  the  trerul  of  the  N.  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  Blanc 
Sablon  is  distant  from  Esquimaux  Bay  20  M.,  from  Quebec  nearly  800  M., 
and  (in  a  straight  line)  218  M.  from  Anticosti  (see  Route  66). 

From  Blanc  Sablon  the  steamer  retraces  her  course  through  the  Strait 
of  Belle  Isle  to  Battle  Harbor. 


64.  The  liabrador  Coast  of  the  Golf  of  St.  Lawrence.— The 

Mingan  Islands. 

The  ports  along  this  coasf.  may  be  reaohed  by  the  American  fishing-schooners, 
from  Gloucester,  although  tlieio  can  be  no  certainty  when  or  where  they  will  touch. 
Boats  may  be  hired  at  Blune  t^ublun  to  convey  pa.^-sengers  to  the  W. 

QuebfV  to  the  Mmsic  River. 

The  steamer  leaves  Quebec  for  the  Moislc  River  every  week, 

and  may  be  hired  to  call  at  intermediate  ports.  The  pa.'-.xiige  occupies  30-40  hours, 
and  the  cabin-fare  is  $20  (includii  g  meals)  Tlie  round  trip  to  Moit>ic  and  back 
takes  nearly  a  week. 

The  N.  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  a  region  which  is  unique  in  its  dreari- 
ness and  desolation.  The  scenery  is  wild  nnd  gloomy,  and  the  shore  is  fHced  with 
barren  and  storm-l>eaten  hills.  The  climate  is  rigorous  in  the  extreme.  Tiiis  dis- 
trict is  divided  into  three  parts,  —  the  King's  Posts,  witli  270  M.  of  coast,  from  Port 
Neuf  to  Cape  Cormorant ;  the  Seigniory  of  Mingan,  from  Cape  Cormorant  to  the 
River  Agwanus  (135  M.) ;  and  the  liahrador,  exunding  from  the  Agwanus  to  Blanc 
Sablon  (16*)  M.).  Along  this  6')1  M  olcojisfc  there  are  ((onsus  of  1861)  but  6,413  in- 
habitants, of  whom  2,Hr2  are  French  Canadians  and  8.33  are  Indians.  1,764  are  fish- 
ennen,  and  1,038  huntem^.  In  the  W"A)  M.  there  are  but  380  houses,  673a  arpents  of 
cultivated  land,  and  12  horses.  There  are  3,841  Catholics,  570  Protestants,  and  2 
Jews. 

The  wide  Bradore  Brnj  is  near  Blanc  Snblon,  to  the  W.,  and  has  been 
called  "the  most  picturesque  %\)Ol  on  the  Labrador."  In  the  hack  coun- 
try are  seen  the  sharp  peaks  of  the  Bradore  Hills,  rising  from  the  wilder- 
ness (1,264  ft.  high).  The  bay  was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  numerous 
humpbacked  whales.  The  village  is  on  Point  Jones,  ou  the  £.  side  of 
the  bay. 


230    nmite  64. 


ESQUIMAUX  BAY. 


i 


BriMlore  Bay  \»  of  f^'eat  extent,  and  \»  ntuddeil  with  clutters  of  inlets,  wtilch 
make  broad  diviHiouH  of  the  roadstead.  It  wait  known  in  ancii'nt  tiuieH  ad  Lii  Baie 
dex  lettes,iiuil  vian  frnintcd  by  France  to  the  Hieur  lj<' (Jardour  de  Courtonianrhe 
(who,  according  to  tradition,  married  a  l*rin«'eHs  of  Franc*',  the  diiij;hter  of  lienri 
IV.).  That  nobleman  Kent  out  a^ent.t  and  otflcern,  named  the  new  port  Philifjitaux, 
and  built  at  its  entrance  a  bulwark  called  Fort  I'ontchiirtrain.  From  liini  if  de- 
hccnded  to  Sieur  Foucher,  who  added  the  title  "  de  l/tbrador  " '  to  hi>«  name ;  and  there 
Btill  exi>tH  a  send-noble  family  in  France,  bearing  the  name  of  Foiirhii  de  L'lhrat/or. 

On  thiH  bay  wan  the  town  of  lirt^Ht,  which,  it  in  daimetl.  wiin  founded  by  men 
of  Hrittany,  in  the  year  1508  If  tliis  staUunent  is  correct,  Urewt  wua  the  fii>t  Euro- 
pean ^^ettlement  in  America,  anted  (ting  by  over  thirty  u'ars  the  foundation  of  St. 
AufCUKtiiie,  in  Florida.  In  loJi')  Janues  Oartier  met  French  ve»Hel.'<  searchiu);  for  tldx 
port.  About  the  .^ear  l»KK)  Ilrest  wju*  at  the  height  of  itn  pro.«'perity,  and  had  1,(J()0 
|)ermanent  inhabitant.^,  2lK)  liouseH,  a  governor  and  an  almoner,  and  Htroug  fortiHcu- 
tions.  After  the  Hubjugation  of  the  E.s({uimaux  by  the  Montaignais,  it  wa«  no  longer 
dangerous  to  establiKh  nmall  li.xhing-station.><  along  the  coast  and  Unst  began  to 
decline  rapidly.     Kuins  of  its  ancient  works  may  still  be  found  here. 

The  Bay  of  Hunne-K^inrnnce  is  one  of  the  most  oiipacious  on  this  coast, 
and  is  sheltered  from  the  sea  l>y  a  doublo  line  (jf  i.sjets.  The  port  is  called 
Bonny  by  the  American  fishermen,  who  resort  here  in  great  numbers 
during  the  herring-season.  The  islands  before  the  harbor  were  passed  by 
Jnques  Cartier,  who  said  that  they  were  "so  numerous  tiiat  it  is  not  pos- 
sible to  count  them  "  Thev  were  formerlv  (and  are  sometimes  now) called 
Les  Isles  de  la  Demoiselle;  and  Th^vet  locates  here  the  tragedy  of  Kober- 
val's  niece  Marguerite  (see  page  221). 

Esquimaux  Bay  is  N.  of  Bomie-Ksperance,  and  is  8  M.  in  circumference. 
2  M.  above  Ksquimaux  Island  is  a  small  trading-post,  above  which  is  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  ai)0unding  in  salmon.  There  is  a  great  archipelago 
between  the  bay  and  the  (iidf  of  St.  Lawrence.  On  one  of  these  islands 
an  ancient  fort  was  discovered  in  the  year  1840.  It  was  built  of  stone  and 
turf,  and  was  surrounded  by  great  piles  of  human  bones.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  last  great  battle  between  the  French  and  Montaignaisand  the  Ksquimaux 
took  place  here,  and  that  the  latter  were  exterminated  in  their  own  fort. 

18  M.  W.  of  Whale  Island  are  Mi8tano(]ue  Island  and  Shecatica  Bay,  beyond  Lob- 
Bter  and  Ilocky  Harbors.  I'ort  St.  Augustine  is  15  M.  W.  of  Mistaiuxjue,  beyond 
Shag  Island  and  the  castellated  highlands  of  Cumberland  Harbor.  A  line  of  high 
islands  extends  hence  21  M.  W.  by  S.  to  Great  Meccatina  Island,  a  granite  rock  2x3 
M.  in  area,  and  5()0  ft.  high.  The  ,<cenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarkable  for  its  gran- 
deur and  singular  features.  58  M.  fioni  Great  Meccatina  Island  \»Cape  Whittle ;  and 
in  the  intervening  course  the  Watagheistic  Sound  and  Wapitjjgun  Harbor  are  passed. 
A  fringe  of  islands  extends  for  H--8  M.  off  this  coast,  of  which  the  outermost  are 
barren  recks,  and  the  large  inner  ones  are  covered  with  moss-growu  hills. 


*'  Now,  brothers,  for  the  iccl)erf(8 

Of  frozen  l..ubrudur, 
Flouting  spectral  in  the  moonshine 

Along  ihe  low  hlnck  §hore 
Where  like  inow  (he  gannt'ts  featliers 

On  HradorH  rocks  are  shed, 
And  the  noisy  tnurr  are  flying, 

Like  black  scuda,  overhead  , 

"  Where  in  mist  the  rock  is  hiding, 

And  the  sharp  ret-f  lurks  hclow. 
And  the  white  squall  lurks  in  suniiner, 

And  the  uutuiiin  tempests  blow  . 
Where,  through  gray  and  rolling  vapor, 

From  evening  unto  morn, 
A  thousand  l>oats  are  hailing, 

Horn  answering  unto  horn. 


"  Hurrah  :  for  the  Red  Island, 

With  the  white  cross  on  itn  crown  ! 
Hurrah  !  for  Meccatina, 

And  its  mountitins  hare  and  hrown  I 
Where  the  Caribou's  tall  antlers 

Oer  the  dwarf -wood  freely  toss. 
And  the  footstep  of  the  MieKniack 

Has  no  sound  upon  the  muss. 

"  Hurruh  I  —  hurrah  !  — the  west-wind 

Conies  freshenini;  down  the  buy, 
The  rising  sails  are  filling,  — 

Give  way,  my  lads,  give  way  ! 
Leave  the  coward  lanasnien  clinging 

To  the  dull  earth,  like  a  weed,  — 
The  stars  of  heaven  shall  guide  us, 

The  breath  of  heaven  shall  speed  I  " 

John  G.  Whjttieks  Songq/  the  Fishermen, 


II 


THE   MTNGAN   ISLANDS.         Route  U4.       231 


Vrom  the  quantity  of  wreck  found  anionfr  thew  Islands,  no  doubt  many  ntplan- 
choly  nhJpwwokM  Ixivo  tukcii  plaor,  which  have  iicvrr  h«>«'n  hwirtl  of;  evfiii  if  the 
unfortunate  crews  lHn«|t>d  (>n  theharn-n  nnks,  thi'.v  would  iwrisii  of  cold  and  hunf;er« 

The  "  o);j?er«  "  rarrv  oil  thoir  ilii-pil  husiiH'xs  aloii);  thf.»»>  >>hor»'s,  wh«'i»'  millions 
of  wa-hirds  hav<'  flicir  hr<*«'dinK-pla  «'s.  'I'Ih'.v  land  on  fin'  inlands  and  hrnik  ail  the 
e\ipi,  and  when  tin*  hirds  lav  fr«>sh  oiu's  tli<'\  pitlit-r  flnni  np,  and  hmd  tlicir  txmts. 
Thorc  ar«' ahout '20  v«'SH«'ls  «nf?a(f«Ml  in  tins  rnntnihand  tnidr,  carninij;  tlic  v^-V,*  to 
Halifax,  Qurht'c,  and  Hoston.  "  Tlu'sc  men  <  ondiin**  t<)p'tli('r,and  form  a  stron)rroui- 
pany.  They  suffer  no  one  to  interfere  with  tlieir  business,  drivinjr  awny  the  fisher- 
men or  any  one  else  that  attempts  to  colUTt  e^f^s  near  where  they  hap|)«-n  to  lie. 
Might  makes  rif^lit  with  them,  if  our  information  be  true  Tliey  tiave  arniH,  and 
are  wnd  by  the  fishermen  not  to  be  serupulous  in  the  use  of  tlieni.  As  soon  as  tliey 
have  filled  one  vessel  with  ejtgs,  they  nend  her  to  market  ;  others  follow  in  siicces- 
sion,  so  that  the  market  is  always  supplied,  but  never  overstocked.  One  vessel  of  25 
tons  is  said  to  have  cleared  £  200  by  this  '  egging  '  business  in  a  favorable  season." 
(Nautical  Magazine.) 

To  the  W.  of  Ciipc  Whittle  arc  tlie  Wolf,  Concooho,  Olomanosheebo, 
Wnsh-shecootiii,  niid  Miisquarro  Kivcrs,  on  the  Inst  three  of  which  are 
po.sts  of  the  Ilud.-ou's  Bay  Coinpauy.  Next  coine  tlio  Ki'fiashka  Hay  and 
River,  tlie  clift's  of  Mont  Joli,  the  cod  bunks  olV  Natashquan  Point,  and 
several  obscure  rivers. 

The  Mingan  Islands  are  29  in  number,  and  lie  between  the  moun- 
tainous .shores  of  lower  Labrador  and  the  island  of  Anticosti.  They 
abound  in  geoloj^ical  phenomena,  ancient  beaches,  d('nu<led  rocks,  etc., 
and  are  of  very  picturesque  contours.  About  their  shores  of  limestone 
are  thick  forests  of  spruce,  birch,  and  poplar;  seals  and  codfisli  abound 
in  the  atljacent  waters;  and  wild  fowl  are  very  plentiful  in  the  proper  sea- 
son. Large  Island  is  11  M.  in  circmntc'rcnce;  and  Mingan,  (Quarry, 
Niapisca.  Esquimaux,  and  Charles  Islands  are  2-3  M.  in  iengtli.  They 
front  the  Labrador  coast  for  a  distance  of  45  M. 

There  are  about  6(mj  inhabitants  near  the  island*,  most  of  wlrm  are  In- 
dians and  French  Acadians,  for  whose  sj)irituiil  guidance  tlie  Oblate  Fathers 
have  established  a  mission.  The  chief  village  is  at  Minyan  llnvbirr,  on 
the  maiidand,  back  of  Harbor  Island;  and  here  is  a  post  of  the  Iluilson's 
Bay  Company.  The  harbor  is  commodious  and  easy  of  access,  anci  has 
been  visited  by  large  frigates.  The  salmon  and  trout  fisheries  of  the 
Seigniory  of  Mingan  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world.  Lony  Point  is 
due  N.  of  the  Perroquets,  6  M.  from  Mingan  Harl)or,  and  is  a  modern  fish- 
ing-village fronting  on  a  broad  beach.  The  fish  caught  and  cured  here 
are  sent  to  Spain  and  Bra/Jl,  and  form  an  object  of  lucrative  tratfic.  The 
fishermen  are  hardy  and  industrious  men,  generally  cpiiet,  but  turbtdent 
and  .    sperate  during  their  long  drinking-bouts. 

The  S'igniory  of  the  Minpnn  Islands  and  the  adjacent  mainland  was  granted  to 
the  t'ieur  Kran(;;ois  IJissot  inl()(jl,and  the  feudal  rijihts  thus  convened  and  still  main- 
tained b^  the  owners  have  greatly  retarded  tlu'  progress  of  this  di>tiiet.  Ine  walrus 
iisheiies  were  fonrerly  of  great  vah.e  In  re,  and  their  n;eu  <iry  is  j)re-erved  by  Wdlrns 
Island,  on  who.>-e  shor  's  the  great  sea-cows  used  to  land.  "  in  lh52  tmre  was  nut  a 
single  estabdshnient  on  the  coast,  between  the  Bay  of  Mingan  and  tlie  teve-  Isles, 
and  not  a  quintal  of  codfish  was  taken,  except  on  the  banks  of  Mingan  a'  at  the 
Kiver  iSt.  John,  which  the  American  fisheruu  n  have  frequented  for  mai  years. 
Now,  there  is  not  a  river,  a  cove,  a  creek,  which  is  not  occupied,  and  every  >t  ..f  thors 


232      Bouts  64.        THE  MINGAN  ISLANDS. 


are  taken  80-86,000  quintals  of  cod,  without  counting  other  flflh/*  "  The  once 
desolate  cotuit^  of  Mingan  have  acquired,  by  immigration,  a  vijforoufi,  moral,  and 
truly  Catholic  population.  The  men  are  gunurally  Mtrong  and  robust,  and  above  all 
they  are  hardy  seamen."' 

On  the  W.  edge  of  the  Mingnn  Islahds  are  the  Perroquets,  a  cluster  of 
low  ro<'.ks  where  great  numbers  of  j)ufltiiis  l)urrow  and  rear  their  yt)ung. 
On  these  islets  the  steamslil[).s  Clydt  and  North  Briton  were  wrecked  (in 
1857  and  1861). 

A  beach  of  white  sand  extends  W.  from  Long  Point  to  tlie  St.  John 
River,  a  distance  of  18-20  M.  The  river  is  marked  hy  the  tall  adjacent 
peak  of  Mount  St.  John  (1,416  ft.  high);  and  furnishes  very  good  fishing 
(see  G  C.  Scott's  "  Fishing  in  American  Waters  ") 

The  Manitou  River  i^  34  M.  W.  of  the  St.  .lohn,  and  at  1^  M,  from  its  mouth  it 
makes  a  grand  leap  over  a  cliff  113  ft.  high,  forming  the  most  niagniticent  catiinu^t 
on  the  N.  shonv  The  const  Indians  still  ropeat  the  legend  uf  the  invasion  of  this 
country  by  the  Micmacs  (from  Acadia),  2tK)  years  ago,  and  i^8  heroic  end  The  hos- 
tile war-ptirty  encamped  at  the  falls,  intending  to  attack  the  .Montaignais  at  the 
portages,  for  which  purpose  forcca  were  statioiiwl  above  and  below.  But  the  local 
tribes  detected  their  presence,  and  cut  off  the  guards  at  the  «'anoes,  then  surprised 
the  detachment  below  the  fulls,  and  finally  attack«'d  the  main  biMly  above.  After 
the  unsparing  carnage  of  a  long  night-battle,  the  .Micmiics  v  »>re  c(»nfiuered,  nil  save 
their  great  wiai,ird-<'hicf,  who  stood  on  the  verge  of  the  falls,  singing  songs  of  de- 
fiance. A  Montaii^nais  chief  rushed  forward  to  take  him,  when  the  bold  .Mi(*mao 
seized  his  opponent  and  leaped  with  him  into  the  fo  iming  waters  They  went  both 
borne  over  the  precipice,  and  the  falls  have  ever  since  been  known  as  the  Manitousin 
(Conjurer's)  Kails. 

The  Moisic  River  is  about  40  \L  \V.  of  the  Manitou  River,  and  empties 
into  a  broad  bay  which  receives  also  the  Trout  River.  At  this  point  are 
the  Moisic  Iron  Works,  near  which  there  are  abojit  700  hdiabitants.  most  of 
whom  are  connected  with  the  mines.  This  company  has  its  cliiof  office 
in  Montreal,  and  runs  a  weekly  steamer  between  Moisic  and  Quebec  (see 
page  231).  There  is  a  hotel  here,  where  visitors  can  get  plain  fare  at  $6 
a  week  (no  liq\iors  on  the  premises).  Large  quantities  of  coilflsh  and  sal- 
mon are  exported  from  Moisic. 

The  Seven  Islands  are  a  group  of  barren  "mountain-peaks,  starting 
suddenly  from  the  ocean,"  and  situated  several  leagues  W.  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Moisic  River.  They  were  visited  by  Cart ier  (1535)  who  rei>ortod 
that  he  saw  sea-horses  here;  j»nd  in  1731  they  were  inchulod  in  the 
Domaine  (hi  Roi.  The  trading-post  which  was  (stal)Iislu»d  lu'ro  by  the 
Frencli,  140  years  ago,  subseqtuMitly  reverted  to  t!ie  Hudson's  liny  Com- 
pany, and  is  visited  by  3-400  Nasqnapee  Indians.  Since  the  departure 
of  the  II.  H.  Coinptuiy,  the  post  itscH"  lias  lost  its  importance,  bijt  all  ves- 
sels trading  on  the  N.  shore  arc  \)o\v  obliged  to  get  their  clearances  here. 
The  Montaignais  Indians  had  a  broad  trail  running  thence  up  a  vast  and 
desolate  vallev  to  Lake  St.  John,  300  M  S.  W.,  and  the  Moisic  River  was 
jmrt  of  the  canoe-routo  to  Huoson's  Hay.  The  I  ntaignais  wore  here 
secure  from  the  attacks  of  the  dreaded  Mohawks  on  the  one  side,  and  the 
nuiritime  Esquimaux  on  the  other,  and  here  they  received  the  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries. 


THE  SEVEN  ISLANDS.         Route  64:     233 


The  pcenery  of  the  Bay  of  Seven  Islands  Ia  famed  for  its  wild  beauty  and  weird 
desolation.  The  bay  is  7  M.  long,  and  is  sheltered  by  the  islands  and  a  uiountninous 
promontory  on  the  W,  The  inin.ediHte  shore  is  a  fine  sandy  btac  h,  ba<  k  of  wliirh 
are  broad  lowlands,  and  "  the  t\\o  paraiU'l  ran^rcs  ot  monntnins.  vhich  tid<l  ^o  niMrh 
to  the  hi'auty  of  the  distant  ^cer.ery  of  this  ba_\ ,  lodk  like  hiijn-  ami  in  pnu'trahle 
barriers  bet  Aien  tlie  coast  and  the  howlin^i  \vild<  ruesslKMond  them  "  In  the  .^prin^ 
and  autnnn  this  bay  is  risited  liy  myriads  of  duck5,  ^'<«>se.  brant,  and  other  will 
fowl,  and  die  salmon-fishing  in  the  ndjac-ent  streams  i.s  of  \m",\i  value.  The  iirrut 
Bou.e  is  the  loftiest  of  the  feven  blands,  reachirK  nn  altitiitlc  of  7IH)  fl.  almve  the 
sea,  and  roninianding:  a  broad  and  niapiititoot  view.  There  are  about  8(K)  inhal*- 
itants  here,  a  large  proportion  of  \shoni  aie  Indians  who  are  engaged  in  the  fur- 
trade.  On  Carrousel  Island  is  a  fixed  light,  195  ft.  above  the  sea,  which  is  visible 
for  20  M. 

From  Carrousel  Island  to  the  St.  Margttret  River  it  is  8  M.;  to  tlie 
Cawee  Islands,  24;  to  Sprouic  Point,  28;  and  still  farther  W.  are  the 
Pentecost  River  and  Kngli.sh  Point,  otT  which  are  the  Eggp  Islands,  heal- 
ing a  revolving  white  light,  which  warns  oflf  mariners  from  one  of  the  most 
dangerous  points  on  the  coast. 

In  the  spring  of  1711  the  British  government  sent  ngninst  Quebec  15  men-of-war, 
under  Adndral  Sir  llovenden  Walker,  and  40  tran.'ports  containing  &,000  vtterau 
soldiers.  During  a  terrible  August  storm,  wl)ile  the\  were  ascending  the  Unit  of 
St.  Lawrence,  the  fle<'t  drove  down  on  the  ^g  Islands.  The  frigates  were  saved 
from  the  shoals,  but  8  transports  were  wrecked,  with  1,3>«3  men  on  lioard,  and 
'•884  brave  fellows,  who  htid  passed  scathlcs.<  thioiigh  the  sangninar>  battles  of 
Blenheim,  Haniillies.  and  Oudenarde,  peri>lied  niiserat>ly  on  the  desolate  shores 
of  the  8t.  Lawren<e.'*  Thi.><  tetriMe  loss  was  the  cause  of  the  total  tailure  of  the  eXr 
pedition.  The  Fn-nch  vcsk'Is  which  visited  the  i.-lcs  after  W'iilker's  disaster  "found 
the  wrecks  of  8  large  vessels,  from  which  the  «'ani.on  and  best  arti<  les  had  been  re- 
moved, and  nearly  3.(KI0  persons  drowned,  and  thiir  hotlies  lying  aUing  the  shore. 
They  ret-ognized  among  them  two  whole  conipani(>s  of  the  Queen's  Uuards,  dln- 
tinguished  by  their  nd  coats,  and  sev«ral  S<otch  families,  intended  as  . settlers  in 
Canada,"  among  them  seven  women,  all  clasping  each  other's  hands.  The  regi- 
ments of  Kaine,  Windrt'sse,  h'eyniour,  and  Clayton  were  nearly  annihilated  in  this 
wreck.  ''The  French  colony  could  not  hut  rei  (igniz<>  a  Providence  which  wati-hed 
singularly  over  its  preservation ,  and  which,  not  s.itisfled  with  rescuing  it  from 
the  gri'atest  danger  it  had  yet  run,  Imd  enrii  hed  it  with  the  spoils  «.f  an  enemy 
whom  it  had  not  had  the  pains  to  conquer  ;  hence  they  reuden-d  Him  luont  heart- 
felt thanks.'^    (Oiiarlkvoix.) 

Beyond  the  hamlet  on  Cnrihou  Point  and  the  deep  bight  of  Trinity  Bay 
is  Point  de  Monts  (or,  as  some  say.  Point  oux  Demons)^  2f'0  .M.  from  Que- 
bec. There  is  a  powerful  fixed  light  on  this  promontory.  8  M.  heycnd  is 
Gitffboiit,  with  its  fur-trading  post;  and  9  M.  farther  W.  is  Cape  St.  Nicho- 
las. 18  M.  from  the  cape  is  Manicouagan  Point,  20  M.  W.  of  which  is  the 
great  Indian  trading-post  at  the  BersimU  River,  where  700  lu'lians  have 
their  headquarters;  thence  to  Cape  Colomhier  it  is  lljj  M.;  and  to  the 
church  and  fort  tit  Port  NetifU  is  12  M.  Point  Mille  Vaclios  is  r)|)posite 
Biquette,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  Is  near  the  SouU  de 
Afouton,  a  fall  of  fO  ft.  There  tire  s«'von»l  sottleinents  of  French  Catholic 
farmers  along  the  shore.  At  Lts  h'snniinnins  there  are  500  itdiahitniits 
and  considerable  ijuantities  of  gniiii  and  Imnlicr  an;  shipped.  'I'lic  coast 
is  of  gran  te,  steep  and  bold,  ami  runs  S,  \V.  10  M.  to  Pttite  Btryervnne, 
whence  it  is  u^  M.  to  the  moutli  of  the  Saguenay  River. 


234      H<yute  65. 


ANTICOSTI. 


65.   Antioosti. 

The  islnnd  of  Anticosti  lios  in  the  month  of  the  St.  Lsiwrenco  River,  and 
i>  118  M.  lotij;  and  31  M.  wide.  In  1871  it  hiul  abont  80  inljuhitnnts,  in 
charge  of  tho  govcrnmt'iit  lights  and  stations,  and  also  50  acres  of  cleared 
land  and  3  horses.  Fox  River  is  (50  M.  distant;  the  Mingan  Islands,  30  M.; 
and  Quebec,  about  450  M.  The  island  has  lately  ijccn  the  scene  of  the 
operations  of  the  Anticosti  Land  ('oujpany,  which  designed  to  foinid  here 
a  new  Prince  Kdward  Island,  covering  these  pe:at-plain.s  with  prosperous 
farms.     The  enterprise  has  as  yet  met  with  but  a  limited  succo>s. 

Anticosti  has  some  woodlands,  hut  Is  for  the  most  part  covered  with 
black  |)eaty  bogs  and  ponds,  with  broad  lagoons  near  the  sea.  The  bog? 
resemble  those  of  Ireland,  and  the  forests  are  composed  of  low  and  stunted 
trees.  The  shores  are  lined  with  great  piles  (tf  driftwood  and  the  frag- 
ments of  wrecks.  There  are  n:any  bears,  otters,  (*)\v<^  and  martens;  also 
partridges,  geese,  brant,  teal,  and  all  manner  of  aqiuitic  fovl.  The  months 
of  July  and  August  are  rendered  miserable  by  the  presence  of  immense 
iwarms  of  black  flies  and  mosijuitoes,  bred  in  the  swamps  and  bogs. 
Large  whales  arc  seen  o(V  these  shores,  and  the  early  codfish  are  also  found 
here.  Fine  limestone  and  marlde  occur  in  several  places;  and  marl  and 
peat  are  found  in  vast  quantities.  There  are  lighthouses  at  S.  W.  Point, 
S.  I'oint  (and  a  fog-whistle),  W.  Point  (and  an  alarm-gun),  and  Heath's 
Point.  The  government  has  established  supply-huts  along  the  shores 
since  the  terrible  wreck  of  the  Granicits,  on  the  S.  K.  point,  when  the  crow 
reached  the  shore,  but  could  find  nothing  to  eat,  and  were  obliged  to  devour 
each  other.     None  were  saved. 

In  1(590  one  of  Sir  William  Pliipps's  troop-ships  was  wri>rko<l  on  Anticosti,  (hiring 
the  retreat  from  Quebec,  and  i)Ut  ft  of  its  lu-opie  survivcil  the  winter  on  flie  islanil. 
>yiien  tile  ice  broiio  up,  tlieso  brave  fellows  started  in  a  row-hoat  for  Huston,  000  M. 
distant ;  and  after  a  passai^e  of  44  divs  thev  reached  their  old  home  in  safety.  The 
ifl'iK<id  was  jfriinted  in  11)01  t(»  the  Sieur  .loliet,  who  erected  a  fort  lien',  hut  was  8<)on 
plundered  and  ejected  i»y  the  Knulisli.  In  1H14  11.  U.  M  frijpite  Lenpardy  60,  the 
same  vessel  which  captured  the  II   S.  frijfate  Vhfxnpfakf  was  lost  here 

"  The  danf^erous,  desolate  shores  of  Anticosti,  ricl:  in  wrecl<s,  accurse<l  in  human 
suffering.  This  hideous  wilderne.*'s  ha.s  l»een  the  grave  of  ltundre<|s;  by  the  slowest 
and  ghastliest  ot  d«'nths  they  died,  —  st'irvation.  Washed  ashore  from  innimed  and 
sinking  ships,  saved  to  iJestruction,  they  drag  their  rhilied  and  battered  lindw  up  tho 
romrli  rocks  ;  for  a  moment,  warm  with  ho|H»,  they  look  around  with  eager,  strain- 
ing e\cs  for  shelter,  —  and  there  is  none'  the  failing  sight  darkens  on  hill  and  forest, 
fon'st  and  hill,  and  black  despair.  Hours  anii  days  wa<«to  out  the  lamp  of  life,  until 
at  length  the  withered  Hkoletous  have  only  HtrtMigtU  to  die."     (Kliot  Warburtcn.) 

In  188")  Anticosti  was  bought  by  F.  W .  Ik  T  (J.  Stockwell.  merchant? 
of  <  Quebec  and  L"nd<»M,  who  have  stores  at  Knuli^h  liav.  Mehunahl  Cove, 
and  i-'ox  Hay,  and  are  trying  to  coloni/e  the  inland.  At  the  beginning  oi 
l8S8there  were  3(10  residents,  incliidiiii;  many  Varnionth  (Kiig.)  lishormen. 

Parley  and  gartlen  vegetables  grow  well.'  The  many  short  rivers  on  tht 
S.  side,  rapid  and  daiigiToiis  in  Npring,  aliound  in  troiit  and  salmon.  The 
.hinijnr  Jilrtr  is  more  than  50  M.  long,  with  chaimin<r  scenerN-.  The  N. 
sinire  is  heavily  wooded  (pine,  ash,  etc.).  The  chief  tisliing-viJlHge  is  at 
I'jiglish  Hay.  In  the  antutnn  the  Canadiim  (iovernuMiit  is  sometimes 
obliged  to  remove  the  starving  Anticostians  to  civili/ed  «(  mmnniiics. 


QuEn 

the  wild 
the(iulf 
land,  an 
highly  ( 
innnensc 
Province 
Ottawa, 
and  (ias| 
are  beau 

The  P 
vast  maj 
the  peop 
suit  the 
people, 
Fn  nch  < 

The  I) 
the  Hriti 
8)  senate 
New  Hri 
and  208 
17,000  sn 
Hrunswi 
f(»r  Mani 
school  at 
the  lHkp> 
581,920; 
1801,  4,8 
Britain  e 
the  same 
ports  of 
with  (ir» 
stuffs  an 
there  arc 

The  li 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


QuEBKC  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  th'»  Provir.ce  of  Ontario,  on  the  X.  by 
the  wilderness  towards  lliulson's  Bay,  on  the  K.  by  Maine,  Labrador,  and 
the  (inlf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  tht;  S.  by  New  Hrnnswick,  N«'W  Kn^- 
hmd,  and  N»'W  York.  It  covi'rs  18S,<IMH  s(|uare  inih's,  and  its  seenery  is 
highly  diversified  and  often  nioiiiitainous,  eoiitrastin^  stn)n^ly  with  the 
innnense  prairies  of  Ontario.  The  stately  river  .St.  Lawrence  traverses  the 
Province  from  S.  W.  to  N.  K.,  and  receives  as  tribntaries  'he  hjrj^e  rivers 
Ottawa,  Kichelieu,  St.  Maurice,  and  Sa^nenay.  The  Kastern  Townsiiips 
and  (iasp(^  Peninsula  are  famed  for  their  line  highland  >cunery,  amid  whicti 
are  beautiful  lakes  and  ^lens. 

The  Province  of  (inebec  ha^  l,48H,:.«ti  inhal)itants  (census  <»f  1S91),  the 
vast  majority  of  wiiom  are  of  Kreiich  descent  and  lanj;ua;;e.  1,170,718  of 
the  pe<»ple  are  Konnin  Catholics,  and  the  laws  of  education  are  inodilied  t«) 
suit  the  system  of  parish-schools.  'I'lhre  are  «;8,7'.t7  (hurt  h-of-iCn^land 
people,  50,287  Presbyterians,  and  IVJMI  Methodists;  l,07.{,8-20  an;  of 
Pnnch  ori,i,nn,  12.1,74!>  Irish,  H|..'iir)  Kn;;lisli,  and  r)4,!»'2.{  .Scottish. 

The  |)on\inion  of  Canada  is  ruled  l»y  a  (Jovernor-tJeneral  (appointed  by 
the  British  sovereifj:n)  and  Privy  Council,  and  a  Parliameiit  consisting  (»f 
8)  senat(»rs(24each  from  Ontario  and  (Quebec,  12  each  from  Nova  .Sc(»tiaand 
New  Brunswick,  and  !)  from  P.  K.  Island,  .Manitoba,  and  British  Columbia) 
and  208  members  of  the  House  of  Connnons.  There  is  one  n  «'ml>er  f(»reach 
17,000  souls,  or  8!>  for  Ontario,  Cut  for<^uel)e<'.  21  for  Nova  S<"otia.  Ml  for  New 
Brunswick,  (>  each  U>v  Prii  ce  Kdward  Island  and  British  Columbia,  ami  5 
for  M.mitoba.  There  are  .'10,144  Cnnadian  militiamen,  with  a  military 
school  at  Kingston;  and  the  navy  eonsi-.ts  of  S  armed  scn«w-steamers  (on 
the  lakes  and  the  (inlf).  In  18(n)Cat)ada  had  21().0()0  iniiabilantx;  in  i82o. 
581,920;  in  1851,  1,842,2(55;  i"  1871,3,057,887;  in  1881,  4,324,810;  and  in 
181)1,4,829,411.  Between  1842  and  1872,  8;U,l()8  emiKranis  from  Great 
Britain  entered  ('anada;  and  in  the  same  period,  4,338,080  persons,  from 
the  same  kingdom,  emigrated  to  the  United  States.  The  exports  and  im- 
ports of  Canada  amount  to  about  S!iO;000,0()0  a  year.  Her  chief  trade  is 
with  (ireat  Britain  and  the  L^nited  States,  and  the  main  exports  are  bread- 
stuffs  ami  timber.  The  Dominion  has  over  10,000  M.  of  railways,  and 
there  are  more  than  (),000    -ostollices. 

The  tirst  European  explorer  who  visited  this  country  was  Jacques  Car- 


M    . 


I 


1 


i.. 


236 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


tier,  who  landed  at  Gaspp  in  1534.  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  tothepUe 
of  Montreal  during  the  followinor  year.  Seventeen  yeur^  hitr  the  ill-futed 
Roberval  founded  an  ephemeral  colony  isear  Queoec,  and  tiicieafter  for 
over  half  ji  century  Canada  was  unvi^ited.  In  I6O0  ^  ariij.'l:!!;  ascended 
to  the  site  <  ♦"  Montreal,  and  ()uehec  anil  .Montreal  were  >*oou  founded ;  while 
ti)'3  labors  of  explorations,  ni  ssions,  and  lighting  the  Ironoj^js  ,vtM*6  carried 
oji  without  cessation.  In  1629  Canada  was  taken  i>\  ;ui  Log!!  ;j  iie  t  under 
Sir  David  Kirke,  hut  it  was  restored  to  France  in  1G32.  The  Company  of 
the  Hundred  Associates  was  founded  l)y  Cardinal  Kichelicu  in  1627,  to 
erect  settlements  in  L(i  Nouvtllc  France^  but  tlie  daring  and  merciless  in- 
cursions of  the  Iroquois  Indians  prevented  the  growth  of  the  colonies,  and 
in  1663  the  company  was  dissolved.  Finally,  after  they  had  exter>ninated 
the  unfortunate  Huron  nation,  the  Irociuois  destroyed  a  part  wf  Mon- 
treal and  many  of  its  people  (1680).  The  long  and  bitter  wars  between 
Canada  and  the  Anglo-American  colonics  had  now  conunenced,  and  New 
York  and  New  Kngland  were  ravaged  by  the  French  troops  and  tiieir  allied 
Indians. 

Naval  expeditions  were  sent  from  Boston  aguin'«t  Quebec  in  1690  and 
1711,  but  they  both  ended  disastrously.  Montreal  and  its  environs  were 
several  times  assailed  by  the  forces  of  New  York,  but  most  of  the  fighting 
was  done  on  the  line  of  Lake  Cham|)lain  and  in  tlic  Maritime  Provinces. 
At  last  these  outposts  fell,  and  powerful  British  armies  entrreJ  Canada  on 
the  E.  and  W.  In  1759  Wolfe's  army  captmed  Quebec,  «f"  r  a  pitched 
battle  on  tlie  Plains  of  Abraham;  and  in  the  f<»llowinj>  year  Montreal  was 
occupied  by  Gen.  Amherst,  with  17,000  men.  The  F.ench  troops  were 
sent  honip;  and  in  1763,  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  Franco  ceded  to  Great 
Britain  all  her  immense  Canadian  domains.  There  were  then  67,000 
French  people  and  8,000  Indians  mi  the  Province. 

The  resident  population  was  conciliated  by  tolerance  to  their  religion 
and  other  liberal  measures,  and  refused  to  join  the  American  Colonies 
when  they  revolted  i.i  1776.  Tl^r  .nnv  c»f  (Hen.  Montgomery  took  Montreal 
and  the  adjacent  cotuitry,  hut  th«  :  aiiadians  declineil  either  to  aid  or  to 
oppose  the  Americans:  aiul  when  Arnold  was  defeated  in  his  attenipt  to 
storm  Quebec,  the  Continental  forces  were  soon  driven  back  into  the 
United  States.  In  1791  the  Provinces  of  Upper  Canada  and  Lower  Canada 
were  fornu'd,  in  order  to  stop  the  di-'^content  of  the  Lnglish  population,  who 
were  thus  st'paraie<l  tnnu  the  French  seilU'UU'nis  to  the  K. 

lu  171)1  rcprti-cntati''''  uovfrnuifut  wa^  (^statilishcd,  and  in  ITS'S  slavery 
was  abolished.  The  War  of  1812  was  waged  beyond  the  boundaries  of 
Lower  Canada,  except  during  the  abortive  attempt  of  the  Atncricans  to 
rapture  Montreal.  In  1837  revolutionary  uprisings  occurred  in  various 
parts  o''('!a'ada,  and  were  only  put  down  after  much  bloodshed.  In  1840 
the  two  Provinces  were  united,  after  which  the  seigniorial  tenures  were 
abolished,  decimal  currency  was  adopted,  the  laws  were  codified,  and  other 


I 

i 

I 
■4 


iniprov< 
Kingsto 
r.t  Otta^ 
oiill  at  ( 
was  dra 
in  1867, 
time  Pr 
that  da^ 
sire  to  j 
with  aul 
bridges, 
Ontario 
the  state 
opnient 
restore  t 
late  her 

"  Like 
beauty  a 
catching 
ami  scare 
nations.'' 

"The  1 
poor,  but 
Latia  piol 
getting  hi 
copyin;^  a 
across  tht 
the  chatc 
Iniliaus,  i\ 
his  brcii'il 
alino.st  as 
lying  ban 
The  redile 
homme  " 


♦'  To  a  ( 
try ,  and  i 
h  appean 
Europi!  a. 
uie  a')  it  ti 
habitant, 
A)iiii',  the 
Be'an^e  < 
begin.  iS 
mountain: 
of  poetry, 
if  it  needi 
the  langu 
and  tho  'i 
earth  Tt 
sou's  Bay 
bring  my! 
and,  to  m( 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


237 


ill-futed 
lifter  lor 
vsccnded 
'■:];  while 
6  carried 
»f!t  under 
ipiiny  of 

1627,  to 
ciless  in- 
nier.,  and 
ri^inated 

<yf  Mon- 

between 
and  New 
leir  allied 


Ji 


improvements  took  place.  The  capital,  which  had  been  shifted  from 
Kingston  to  Mon*  -,  "  uid  then  to  Toronto,  was  established  by  tiie  Queen 
r.t  Ottawa  in  1860  The  French  und  English  deputies  in  Parliament  were 
olill  at  odds,  and  after  a  long  wrangle  in  1864,  the  attention  of  thr«  country- 
was  drawn  to  the  old  nroject  of  confcdt^iation  which  was  ;»t  last  leailzf  J 
in  1867,  and  Canada  (ihen  u  vidt'd  into  Ontario  and  Quebec)  and  the  Marl- 
time  Provinces  wore  consolidated  into  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  Since 
that  day  the  councils  of  the  Imperial  Government  have  manifested  a  de- 
sire to  give  independence  to  the  new  State;  and  the  Dominion,  endowed 
with  autonomic  powers,  has  made  rapid  advances,  building  great  railways, 
bridges,  and  canals,  and  forwarding  internal  improvements.  Meantime 
Ontario  has  gained  a  preponderating  power  in  the  national  councils,  and 
the  statesmen  of  Quebec  are  now  maturing  plans  for  the  energetic  devel- 
opment of  the  natural  capabilities  of  the  Province,  hoping  thereby  to 
restore  the  Province  of  Quebec  to  her  former  pre-eminence  and  to  popu- 
late her  waste  places 


1690  and 
■ons  were 
e  fighting 
*rovinces. 
'anada  on 
a  pitclied 
trcnl  was 
)()ps  were 
to  Great 
en  67,000 

r  religion 

Colonies 

Montreal 

aid  or  to 

t tempt  to 

into  the 

er  Canada 

ation,  who 

11.3  slavery 
idaries  of 
cricnns  to 

u  various 

In  1840 

uros  were 

and  other 


"  Like  a  virgin  godt'css  in  a  priuicTal  world,  Canada  etill  walks  in  unconecious 
beauty  among  her  golden  woods  and  along  the  iiiargiu  of  her  tracklet«8  HtreaniB, 
catching  hut  broken  glaneos  of  her  r.idiaut  niujosty,  'is  mirrored  on  their  Hurface, 
and  soarcoly  dn'anis  as  yet  of  the  glorious  future  uwuitiug  her  in  the  Olympus  of 
nations.''  (Earl  of  Dufferin.) 


•*  The  beggared  noble  of  the  early  time  became  a  sturdy  country  gentleman ; 
poor,  but  not  wretched  ;  ignorant  of  books,  except  possihly  a  few  scraps  of  ruKly 
Latia  picked  up  in  a  Jesuit  school  ;  hardy  iis  the  hardiest  woodsman,  yet  never  for- 
getting his  (luality  o{  fientiUwmme :  scrupulously  wearing  its  badge,  the  sword,  and 
copying  as  well  as  he  could  the  fasbions  of  the  court,  which  glowed  on  his  vision 
across  the  sea  in  all  the  effulgence  of  Versailles,  and  beamed  with  retiected  ray  from 
the  chateau  of  Quebec.  lie  was  at  home  among  his  tenants,  at  home  anion^  ciic 
Indians,  and  never  more  at  home  t!i:in  when,  a  gun  in  ids  hand  and  a  crucifix  ou 
his  breast,  he  took  the  war-p.itli  witli  a  crew  of  painted  savages  and  Fn-nchmen 
almost  as  wild,  and  pounced  like  »  lynx  from  the  forest  on  some  lonely  farm  .y  ou*- 
lying  hamlet  of  New  England.  Uow  New  England  hate  I  him,  let  her  re(  ot  ,j  te'l. 
The  reddest  blood-stre  iks  on  her  old  ann  ils  mark  the  track  of  the  Cauadi  a  ^'  ikU- 
homnte  ''  {I»arkm.\n.) 

"  To  a  traveller  fi-om  the  Old  U'orld,  Canada  East  may  appj'nr  ike  a  new  -  i>uii- 
try,  and  its  inhabitants  like  colonists  ;  but  to  me,  coming  from  >ew  Engliiutji.  ... 
it  appeared  as  old  as  Normandy  itself,  and  reali/x^d  nm<li  that  1  bad  heard  of 
Europe  iv.id  the  Middle  Ages.  Even  the  names  o>M)umbli  iinadian  village:^  a>tectoU 
me  as  if  tiiey  had  be<Mi  those  of  the  renowned  cities  of  uatiquity.  To  ho  told  b^  a 
habitant,  when  I  asUed  the  name  of  a  village  in  ^igllr  that  it  i'!  .S7.  Fermlr  or  ^. 
Aiinf,  the  Gutirlian  An^fl  or  tije  Holy  J>:fitli's  ;  oi  .f  a  nionutain,  tlmt  it  w<iB 
Be'an^e  or  St  Hifm  int/ie .'  As  soon  Jis  ym  leave  the  states,  tliese  siiutly  names 
begin.  St.  John  is  the  hr^t  town  you  stop  at,  and  tlienceforward  the  names  of  tlie 
moujitaias  and  stnvims  and  villiges  reel,  if  I  may  >  speak,  witli  the  intoxit  atiou 
of  poetry,  —  Chanihly,  LonaiKUil,  Hointt  mix  Tn  ni<  .v,  Barthii!(ttrii/,i>tc.,vU\,  -us 
if  it  needeil  only  a  little  foreign  accent,  a  tew  more  Ui|uids  and  f  >wels  |>ercUaiue  in 
the  languiige,  to  make  us  locate  our  iile:ils  at  once.  I  began  to  dream  of  I'lov^Mjre 
and  the  Troubadours,  and  of  places  and  things  which  h".v»*  no  existence  on  the 
earth  They  veiled  the  Indian  and  the  primitive  forest,  and  thy  woods  toward  Hud- 
sou's  Bay  were  only  as  the  forests  of  France  and  Oerniuny.  I  could  not  at  oncti 
bring  myself  to  believe  that  the  inhaliitants  who  pronounced  daily  those  b«ftutiAil 
and,  to  me,  signiflcaut  names  lead  as  pro.^uic  lives  as  we  of  New  England. 


238      Route  66. 


PICTOU  TO  QUEBEC. 


"  One  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Hi.  Anue  is  named  La  Rividre  ilr.  la  Rose,  and  far- 
ther east  are  La  Rivi&re  tie  li  UhM/elle  and  Ln  Riviere  t/e  la  Friponne.  Their  very 
riviire  meanders  more  than  (»vu  rirur [It  is]  a  more  western  and  wilder  Arca- 
dia, methinks,  than  the  worl<i  ha.s  ever  seen  ;  for  tlie  (irreks,  witki  all  their  wood 
and  riyer  gods,  were  not  so  qualifled  to  name  the  natural  ti'atures  of  a  country  as 
the  ancestors  of  these  Fretteh  Canadians  ;  and  if  any  people  had  a  right  to  substi- 
tute their  own  for  tlie  Indian  names,  it  was  they.  They  have  preceded  the  pioneer 
on  our  own  frontiers,  and  named  the  prairie  for  us.'*   (Tuoukau.  J 


On  the  question  as  to  whether  the  Canadians  speak  good  French,  Potherie  says 
that  •'  they  iiad  no  dialect,  which,  indeed,  is  generally  lost  in  a  colony."  C'harle- 
Toix  observed  tabout  1720) :  "  The  French  language  is  nowhere  spoken  with  greater 
purity,  there  being  no  accent  pen-eptible."  Bougainville  adds:  "They  do  not 
know  how  to  write,  but  tliey  speak  with  ease  and  with  an  accent  as  good  as  the 
Parisian."  Prof.  Silliman  says  that  they  speak  as  good  French  as  the  common 
Americans  speak  English. 

From  the  voluminous  work  of  M.  Rameau,  entitlotl  La  Franrf  nux  Colonies  — 
Acaiiiens  et  Canadiens  (Paris,  185i>),  we  learn  that  in  the  year  1920  the  valleys  of 
the  Soguenay,  Ottawa,  and  Lower  i^t.  Liawrcnce  shall  l;e  occupied  by  a  Franco- 
Canadian  nation  of  6,000,000  souls  ;  that  the  n ournful  vices,  "  impoverishment  of 
intelligence,  and  corruption  of  manners,"  which  the  Anglo-American  race  in  the 
United  States  h;is  suffered,  shall  i)e  opposi-d  ami  clucked  by  the  fecund  genius  of  the 
French  race,  and  the  "  scientific  and  artistic  aptitudes  of  the  Canadians,"  emanating 
continent-enlightening  radiance  from  the  walls  of  the  Laval  University  ;  that  the 
dissolute  barbarism  of  the  Americans  shall  be  an.eiionited  by  the  sweet  influences 
of  the  '•  Oreco-Latin  ldea"of  tlu-  Franro-Canatlians ;  and  that  that  agricultural 
and  intellectual  people,  "  the  general  and  essential  principle  of  whose  material  and 
intellectual  power  is  in  their  lelij^iuus  faith  and  in  the  simplicity  of  their  manners," 
sliall  profit  by  the  sad  experii-nce  of  Old  France,  —  and  umler  the  conservative  influ- 
ences of  a  social  aristocracy  shall  er«H't  a  New  Fraix e,  to  be  forever  illustrious  in  its 
culture  "  de  Vesprit^  la  inodtslie  de.s  inaurs,  la  liberti  et  la  rtligion.'''' 


66.   Pictou  to  Quebec.  —  The  Coasts  of  Oaspe  and  the  Lower 

St.  La.iTence. 

This  voyat^e  is  full  of  interrst  to  the  lover  of  fine  scenery,  and  leads 
through  some  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  l*r(>vinees.  The  vessels 
pass  the  lofty  highlaiwls  of  Nova  Scotia,  the  Acadian  districts  on  the 
sandy  shores  of  New  liruii.swick,  the  stately  mountains  about  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  and  ti".  frowning  rid^a's  of  (Jaspe.  Then  comes  the  ascent  of 
the  Uiajestic  St.  I^awrcMcc,  with  its  white  French  villages,  its  Alpine 
shores,  and  romantic  history,  terminated  hy  the  (piaint  medixval  towers 
of  Quebec,  '  the  Walled  (Jity  of' the  North."  The  steamers  are  krge  and 
comforfahlc,  and  are  (juite  steady  in  ordinary  seas(»ns.  The  cabin-tables 
are  "^'ti  siippi'-d,  and  the  attendame  is  good.  There  is  but  little  danger 
from  soa^-icktiii?  •.,  e.xci'pt  in  very  breezy  weather  (see  also  page  3). 

Till    f»mte  h  sc  ved  by  the  vessels  of  the  (^iieljec  Steamship  Company. 

Passenger^  Wxxw  Halifax  by  railway  every  other  Monday  morning,  and 
connect  vvi;h  ti»e  ^teamj^hip  which  leaves  IMctou  on  the  sanje  evening,  call- 
inicj  at  (Miailottetown    and   Sun^merside  (Prince    K<hvard    Island), 
Gh  pe,  Frttheii  I'oint,  an'  Quebec,  arriving  at  t!ie  latter  port  on  Thursday, 
iiad  proceeding  at  once  to  Montreal,  where  she  arrives  next  morning.    Re- 


CARLETON. 


Route  66.     239 


andfar^ 

leir  very 
ler  Arca- 
eir  wood 
untry  as 

0  8ub8ti- 

1  pioneer 


erie  says 
Charle- 
I)  greater 
1^  do  not 
od  as  the 
common 


hfonifS  — 
alleys  of 
I  Franco- 
[inient  of 
ce  in  the 
ills  of  the 
iiiHiiHting 
that  the 
ntluenrcs 
rirultural 
terial  and 
laniiers," 
tive  influ- 
ious  in  ita 


Lower 

1(1  leads 
e  vesstOs 
on  the 
Bay  of 
iscent  of 
}  Alpine 

1  towers 
urge  and 
in-tablcB 

2  (lunger 

mpany. 

ling,  and 

ing,  call- 

1), 
"hursday, 

iig.    lie- 


turning,  the  steamer  leaves  Montreal  on  Monday,  and  Quebec  on  Tues- 
day, and  arrives  in  Pictou  on  Saturday  morning.  Connections  are  made 
with  steamboats  f<»r  the  inner  ports  of  the  Bay  of  (^halour,  at  Pcrcr,  and 
travellers  may  thus  reach  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  Hallway  at  Canip- 
bcUton. 

The  BaifMle'j-Chaleurs  Railway  runs  from  >rctMpo<lia  to  Cjirlfnn  40  M.), 
anil  is  being  extended  to  Paspcbiiic  (KM)  .M.),  and  (Ja>pe  (170  M.). 

SttniiitMs  ply  between  Dalhousie  and  Miiriii,  which  is  near  the  famous 
salnioii-lisliing  grounds  of  the  (Jrand  Cascapedia  IJiver,  Inug  frefiiiented 
by  ['resident  Arthur,  Lords  Lorne,  Duffcrin,  and  Lansdowne.  and  others. 

Halifax  to  Pictou,  see  Route  31.     St.  .lohn  to  Shediac,  see  Route  14. 

After  leaving  Pictou  Harbor,  the  steamship  passes  out  between  ('uribou 
Island  and  Pictou  Island  («ce  idso  page  17')),  and  enters  the  Northumber- 
land Strait.  On  the  S.  are  the  dark  highlands  of  Pi(;tou  ('ouiity,  among 
whoso  glens  are  scattered  settlements  of  Scottish  people.  10-12  M.  N.  are 
the  low  hills  of  Prince  Kdward  Island.  The  deep  bight  of  Tatamaginicho 
Bay  (see  page  81)  is  passed  abf)ut  35  M.  W.  of  Pictou,  and  the  blue  and 
monotonous  line  of  the  ('obefjuid  Mts.  may  bo  seen  in  the  S  ,  in  very  clear 
weather.  Beyond  Bale  Verte  the  steamer  passes  through  the  narrow 
part  of  the  Strait  between  (^ape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tonnentine,  and  the 
low  red  shores  of  Prince  Kdward  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.  flio  course  is 
next  laid  along  the  level  Westmoreland  coast  (see  page  60),  and  the  har- 
bor of  Shediac  is  entered. 

The  general  aspe(!t  of  the  N.  Shore  of  New  Rnmswick  is  described  in 
Route  15  (page  00).  It  is  to  bo  remembered,  however,  that  the  (Jtilf- 
Ports  steamships  do  not  stop  sit  Kichibucto,  liatburst,  or  Oampbellton. 
Having,  then,  dcucribed  the  coast  from  Shediac  to  Dalhousie  in  Koufo  16, 
the  present  route  will  follow  the  shores  of  the  great  Gaspesian  peninsula. 
The  Quebec  steamers  no  longer  visit  Carleton  and  Paspebiac. 

As  the  steamship  leaves  the  estuary  of  the  Restigonehe,  the  red  sand- 
stone dilfs  of  .)f(i(/unch(i  Point  are  passed,  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  the 
broad  lagoon  of  Carleton  Road.  The  beautiful  peak  of  *  Traoadiegash 
is  now  approached,  and  after  passinjj  the  lighthouse  on  Trrtcadiejrnsli 
Point,  the  white  village  of  Carleton  is  seen  on  the  Quebec  shore.  This 
place  has  about  800  iidmbitants  and  a  convent,  and  is  simgly  situated 
under  the  lee  of  the  mountains,  near  a  bay  which  Is  secure  duritig  gales 
from  the  N.  and  E.  Immense  sclu)ols  of  herring  visit  these  shores  during 
the  springtime,  at  the  spawning  seasoji,  and  are  caught,  to  be  used  as  food 
and  for  fertilizing  the  ground.  The  village  is  enterprising  and  active,  and 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Acadians.  The  steamer  stops  otV  the  port  if  there 
are  any  passengers  or  freight  to  be  landed. 

For  Pen.e,  Ciaspc,  I'asiKjbiac,  etc.,  see  Cmltiry  M'i;/>iJnc,  March,  '884. 


I 


n 


240     itoute  en. 


PASPEniAC 


••ruHcton  \^  n  prptty  town,  t«i  whioh  a  >«toRm«»r  fometlmon  punn  fVom  Camp- 
belUoii,  ri'iiilrrlnjr  tin*  Hiilninn  wtn-niiiH  in  tin-  vicinity  <|iiit«'  ncecHNil*!*'.  When  the 
f\u\  shint'H,  it«  wliitc  t  ottii):*'-',  nf-nHinn  at  flu-  foot,  of  Cic  niHJ«>stir  TniOfuliri;iiRh 
Monntnln.  jtlistni  lik«»  Hncnv-ttakrs  jipaltist  tin*  ^iolllh^*  Itarkirroiii  <|,  ami  (;l(>ani  out 
in  loToly  contract  witli  tlioclonil  tliat  tap  Mii>  Mimniit  ol'  tliiH  outpotit  Hvntiufl  of 
tlic  Ailegliany  rangtv''    (IIai.loi  K.) 

The  sti'iumT  mow  piissr-*  <mi  iipoii  "  tho  uiiduluting  iui<l  volupttjous  Bay 
of  (Minlcur,  tull  of  1i»m^  (ulds,  dl'  lim;j;uisliiiijj;  (•••ntuurs,  which  tlie  wind 
carcssos  with  t'liii-hkr  hrcntli,  and  whose  sdt'tciu'd  shores  receive  the  Hood- 
ing of  tho  waves  without  a  niunmir."  On  the  N.  is  Oufcajtediac  Ii<iy,  on 
whose  shores  arc  the  Acadian  and  Scottish  hamlets  <tl'  Maria  and  New 
Richmond,  (h'voted  to  tarmin<j  and  tlie  fisheries.  The  njgj^ed  j>eaks  of  the 
Tracadiejiash  ranjje  are  seen  in  tine  retn)S|)ective  views. 

New  CarU»h'  is  near  the  month  of  the  (Jrand  Uonaventure  Kiver,  and  is 
the  ca]>ital  of  |i..iiaveutnrc  Cotnity.  It  has  7'>(»  iidiahitants,  and  Is  en- 
gaged in  thf  lisherie-,  haviii<x  also  a  few  summer  visitors.  'I'lie  churches 
and  cotirt-honse  occupy  a  conspicuou'*  p<»sition  on  the  high  bank  whicli 
overlooks  th  '  hay.  1  hi^  town  was  founded  in  17Hr>  by  American  Loyal- 
ists, who  received  from  the  govennnent  one  year's  i)n»visions,  lands,  seeds, 
ami  farmimr-implements.  ,*  400,000  was  expended  in  establishing  this 
settlement  and  f)<ii!glastown. 

Paspebiao  (  Tliv  I. inn  Inn)  \<  a  village  of  400  liduibitants,  situated  on 
the  N.  t»hore  of  the  Uay  of  ('haleur,  440  M.  from  Quebec.  Its  harbor  is 
formed  by  a  line  bea»h  of  sand  3  M  long,  curving  to  the  S.,  and  forming 
a  natural  breakwat«'r  against  tlie  sea  during  easterly  gales.  'I'he  church 
and  houses  of  the  village  are  bu  It  ab<»ve  the  red  clKl's  of  the  shore,  nn<l 
present  the  neat  an<l  orderly  appearance  of  a  military  post.  On  the  line 
of  the  beach  are  the  great  white  (and  red-trinuned)  storehouses  and  .ship- 
vards  of  (Mim'-Ips  Kobin  &  Co.  and  Le  Boutillier  Brothers,  the  nu'rcantilo 
establN'mnMits  which  su>tain  the  place. 

Rnldn  vt  (^».  is  an  anri«>Tit  house  whicli  dates  from  17fi8,  and  hnx  its  headquarters 
at  the  Isle  of  .lers»«\  ,  olf  tiu"  coiu^t  of  Fniiue.  I'asiK'liiar  was  settled  in  \~i^\  by  Churles 
Itobin,  who  estal>ii>li4Ml  here  a  jar^e  llshin^  station.  In  June,  177S,  the  place  was 
taken  liy  two  Anwriran  privativi's,  which  carried  uway  the  vesM'ls  Uopt  and  Bte. 
The  wlmle  tieet  was  soon  afterward  captun-d  t»y  H.  H  Si  friffates  Hunter  and  Pip»r, 
but  RoliJn  was  forced  to  pay  such  heavy  salvage  ^lat  it  ruined  liis  business.  In 
17.'*y  lie  came  ha«'k  here  under  French  colors  andin  20  years  accmiiuiated  a  jyreat 
fortune  The  flrni  of  Ciiarles  Ro'r.in  &•  Co  is  now  the  most  powerful  on  nil  these 
roasts,  and  keeps  large  tle«'ts  employed,  supporting  numerous  village!-  from  7  wealthy 
estab'lshments.  Tin-  la-ads  of  the  finn  live  in  .lersey,  and  their  officers  and  man- 
agers on  this  coast  are  forced  by  nde  to  lead  a  life  of  celibacy.  This  company  em- 
ploy* "oO  men,  besides  17  vessels  and  lol  sailors  ;  and  the  lifBoutilliers  have  580 
men  and  l")  vessels  They  export  vast  ipiantities  of  fl.-h  and  oil  to  the  West  Indies 
and  the  Mediterranean,  supplying  their  Canadiim  posts.  In  return,  with  all  needed 
product-*  of  other  countries  I*as|>«biac  n-eeives  ^l'iO,<K)0  worth  of  goods  yearly, 
and  export*  .-r-IJ'iO.noo  worth  offish  Tin-  In'st  fisb  is  sent  io  the  .Mediterranean  in 
bulk,  the  second  gnide  g<H>s  in  tub»  to  Hra/.tl,  an<i  the  |H»on;st  :x  ship|H>d  in  caj^ks 
t«  the  Wet  Indies,  'I'he  Jersey  lleet  reaches  l*as|H'biac  early  in  May,  spends  the 
summer  fishing  in  the  bay  and  Gulf,  and  returns  In  December.  The  Amerienn  mar- 
ket is  supplied  by  the  fapi'-Atni  H«'<'t  in  these  waters;  an<l  the  proeetnls  of  the  au- 
tumnal months  an-  sohl  in  I'pi^er  Canada.  The  annual  yieM  of  the  Bay  of  ('haleur 
is  estimated  at  2t),mMi  quintals  of  dry  codfish,  00()  quintals  of  hsddot-k,  3,000  bar- 


CAPE  DESPAIR. 


Route  GO.       241 


i\  Cftmp" 
Vhen  the 

:li>iiiu  ritit 
.>ntiu«'l  of 

ouH  Uiiy 
lie  wind 
lie  li()()<l- 
liiiy,  on 
,11(1  New 
ks  of  the 

ir,  nnd  is 
id  ia  en- 
•Imrches 
ik  which 
ri  Loynl- 
Is,  seeds, 
ling  this 

iiated  on 
liarbor  is 

I  forming 
e  church 
liore,  nnd 

II  the  line 
luid  sliip- 
lercantiio 


idqunrters 
by  Charles 
place  was 
unil  Re, 
Kud  Piptr, 
iinesH.  In 
ti'd  a  Kreat 
1  all  these 
1  7  wealthy 
and  man- 
njmnv  eui- 
^  have  580 
Wet  Indies 
all  needed 
His  yearly, 
rranean  m 
»d  in  capks 
Kpeiidi*  the 
riean  mar- 
I  of  the  au- 
of  Chaleur 
,  8,000  bar- 


rail  of  herring,  300  barrelH  of  iialmon,  and  iri,0(K>  (ralloni  of  cod-oil.  The  fltheriea 
of  the  l>av  and  <«ulf  are  valued  at  $  HU<),(KH)  a  year,  aud  employ  1,G(X)  suii  of  vvmhcIs 
an<l  18,(MM)  meii. 

Ill  .liinuiiry  aixl  February  the  thernn»n>et4T  siniietiiues  sinks  to  2i'»"  below  a;ro, 
and  the  buy  is  ovet-hung  by  dark  niiisse-i  nf  "  frost  smoke.'  In  this  season  the 
Aurora  Itoreaiis  itt  s<>4>n  by  niKlit,  illuminating  tiie  whole  northern  horizon  with 
steady  brilli.inee.  In  July  and  AuKUst  the  thennouieter  rangi;s  from  f)6"  to  106°, 
and  the  air  is  tiMupen-d  by  fn>sh  s«ti-br«'e/.es. 

The  name  Pasfifhiar  means  "  broken  banks,"  and  the  Inhabit^intK  are  called 
Pa^'py  .lacks  or  I'ospillots.  Many  of  tlie  bitw  of  iipite  and  jJis|H'r  called  "  Oaspe  peb- 
hies''  an!  found  on  this  shon>  aft«>r  the  f;ales  of  Hprint;  and  autumn,  and  are  sent  to 
the  jewellers  of  liondon  and  Quebec.  It  ia  supposed  that  thoy  couie  from  the  con- 
glomerate rocks  on  the  Restijjfouche  lliver. 

Beyond  I'lispebiac  un;  the  shores  of  Hope,  on  which  immense  masses  of 
caplin-fiNJi  are  thrown  up  every  spring.  Ilufy  are  shovcdled  into  wagons 
by  the  farmers  and  are  used  to  fertilize  the  land.  The  next  po"nt  of  in- 
terest is  tiie  deep  hay  of  Port  Daniel,  a  safe  and  well-sheltered  haven,  on 
wliose  W.  shore  is  a  remarkable  hill,  400  ft.  high.  Near  the  fishing- 
viUago  up  tlie  harbor  are  deposits  of  oil-bearing  shale.  'Ihc  steamer  soon 
passes  Point  Mat/uei'enu  (which  some  consider  the  N.  portal  of  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur).  with  I'oint  Miscou  on  the  S.  K. 

At  midniffht  on  Oct.  15,  18138,  the  ship  Cn'orne  went  a.shore  on  Point  Maqucreau, 
and  was  soon  brokcii  t(»  pie«'es.  Her  crew,  consintinj^  of  4'2  men,  w&h  Umt.  The 
cargo  was  comjMsed  of  silks,  wines,  silver-plate,  and  s|>e<'ie,  and  wiw  valued  at 
over  S  400,000.     The  wreckers  of  (iaspe  recovered  rich  treasures  from  the  wreck. 

Nfwpoi't  is  6  M.  beyontl  I'oint  Mtiquereau,  and  is  inhabited  by  200  Aca- 
dians,  who  are  devoted  to  the  tisheries  and  to  the  jmrsuit  of  the  vast  Hocks 
of  wild  fowl  which  resort  to  these  shores  during  the  spring  and  autumn. 
Great  and  Little  Pabos  are  seaside  hamlets,  4  and  8  M.  farther  K.  4  M. 
beyond  is  Grand  Rirer,  a  large  Acadian  village  clustered  about  the  fish- 
ing-establishment of  |{obi4i  &  Co  It  is  7  M.  from  this  point  to  Cape 
Despair. 

Cape  Despair  was  named  by  the  French  Cap  iPExpoh,  or  Cape  Hope,  and  the 
present  name  is  either  an  Anjflicized  jiroiiuiiciation  of  this  French  word,  or  else  was 
given  in  memory  of  the  terrible  disaster  of  1711.  During  that  ycjir  Queen  Anne  sent 
u  great  tioet,  with  7,iX)0  soldii-rs,  with  orders  to  capture  Quehec  and  occupy  Oanada. 
The  Heet  wjw  under  Admiral  Sir  Ilovenden  Walker,  and  the  army  wjis  commanded 
by  Gen.  Hill.  During  a  bliu'k  fog,  on  the  '22d  of  August,  a  violent  storm  arose  and 
scattered  the  tiect  in  all  directions,  hurling  8  larj^e  ships  on  the  terrible  ledges  of 
Egg  Island  (see  page  23^3)  and  ('ape  Despair,  where  they  wm;  lost  with  all  on  i)oard. 
Fragments  of  the  wrecks,  called  Le  Naufrn^e  Ant^lmf,  wen;  to  be  s«!en  along  the 
shores  until  a  recent  date;  and  there  was  a  wild  .superstition  among  the  fisliermen 
to  the  effect  that  sometimes,  when  the  sea  was  quiet  and  calm,  vast  white  waves 
would  roll  inward  from  the  (lulf,  bearing  a  phantom  ship  crowded  with  men  iu 
ancient  military  costumes.  An  officer  stands  on  the  bow,  with  a  whlt^'-clad  woman 
on  his  left  arm,  aud  as  the  maddened  surge  sweeps  the  ilcx)med  ship  on  with  light- 
aiiig  speed,  a  trcMuendous  crash  ensiifs,  the  clear,  agonized  cry  of  a  woman  swells 
over  the  great  voice  of  despair,  —  and  naught  is  seen  but  the  black  clilTs  aud  the 
level  sea. 

Just  beyond  Cape  Despair  is  the  prosperous  fishing-station  of  Cape  Cove^ 
0  M.  from  Perc^.  The  traveller  should  now  be  on  the  lookout  for  the 
Perc6  Rock  and  Bonaventure  Island.  The  steamer  runs  in  between  the 
Rock  and  the  Island,  affording  fine  views  of  both. 

U  » 


I 


242      Route  66. 


PERCE. 


The  •  Pero<  Book  is  288  ft.  high,  risinp  with  precipitous  walls  directly 
from  the  waves;  and  is  about  500  ft.  lonp;.  Tliis  citadel-like  cliff  is  pierced 
by  a  lofty  arch,  through  which  the  long  levels  of  the  sea  are  visible.  Small 
boats  sometimes  traverse  this  weird  ]):iss:ige,  utider  the  immense  Gothic 
arch  of  rock.  There  was  formerly  another  tunnel,  near  the  outer  point  of 
the  Kock,  but  its  roof  iVll  in  with  a  tremenilous  crash,  and  left  a  great 
obelisk  rising  from  the  sea  bevond. 

The  8Uii)init  of  tlio  Perc6  Hack  covtTH  nhoiit  two  arri'S',  niul  is  divided  into  two 
great  districts,  one  of  whicli  is  iuliiii)it«?d  by  thr  nulls,  and  tlie  cormorants  dwell  on 
th«  other.  IfcitluT  of  thest;  trespusws  on  tlio  otiier's  tcrri  ory  (which  occurs  every 
fifteen  uiinutes,  at  least),  a  buttle  ensues,  the  shriil  cries  of  hundreds  tr  thousands 
of  birdi4  rend  the  iiir,  (?n*at  clouds  of  conibatauts  hover  over  the  plateau,  and  peace 
i8  only  restored  by  the  retreat  of  the  invader.  When  the  coiitlict  is  iK-tween  largo 
tloi'ks,  it  is  a  woene  wortliy  of  close  notice,  and  f=ometiuies  becomes  hii^hly  exciting. 
The  Hock  is  at  ri^ht  angles  with  Mt.  Joli,  uud  is  of  new  red  sandstone.  The  top  ia 
covered  with  fine  grass. 

Many  years  ago  the  Rock  was  n.seeiuled  by  two  fishermen,  and  the  way  once  being 
found,  scores  of  men  clambered  up  by  ropes  and  carri«d  away  the  eggs  and  young 
birds,  finding  the  older  ones  so  tame  that  they  had  to  Ite  liftcil  off  the  nests.  This 
vast  avi.iry  would  have  been  depopul.-ited  long  ere  this,  but  that  the  I'erce  niagis- 
trates  pii.ssed  a  law  forbidding  the  ascent  of  the  Kock.  There  ari'  luunerou.s  quaint 
and  weird  legends  attached  to  this  place,  the  strangest  of  which  is  that  of  Lf  (iinie 
de  V lie  Ptrrif,  a|>hantom  olh'U  seen  over  the  plateau.  "  It  is  likely  that  the  founda- 
tion for  this  legend  can  be  traced  to  the  vapory  or  cloud-like  appearance  the  vast 
flocks  of  water-fowl  assume  when  se«-n  at  a  distance,  wheeling  in  every  fantastic 
shape  through  the  uir,  previous  to  alighting  on  the  sun>niit." 

Tlie  harbor  of  Perc(*  is  very  insecure,  and  is  open  to  the  N.  E.  winds.  In 
earlier  times  this  port  was  called  Ln  Terre  (Its  Teinprtes,  so  frequent  and 
disastrous  w(Te  the  storms.  The  village  has  about  400  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  follow  the  shore-fisheries  in  small  boats.  The  town  is  visited 
every  spring  and  sutnmer  by  hundreds  of  stalwart  Jersey  lads,  sent  out  by 
the  ho  Boutillier  Brothers. 

l*erc*^  consists  of  Sotith  Beach,  where  are  the  white-and-red  buildings  of 
the  Robin  establislnnent;  aiul  North  Beach,  where  is  the  bulk  cf  the  popu- 
lation, with  the  court-house,  jail,  aiul  Catholic  church.  The  two  sections 
are  separated  by  Moimt  .loli,  a  lofty  promontory  which  here  approaches 
Pcrc6  Hock.  The  Kpiscopal  church  is  a  cosey  little  Gothic  .structure, 
accommodating  100  persons.  I'crc^  is  *'  the  Klysium  of  fishermen,"  and 
hence  arises  a  circumstance  which  detracts  IVom  its  value  as  a  summer 
resort, —  when  the  shore  is  covereil  with  the  refuse  parts  of  codfish,  pro- 
ducing a  powerful  and  unpleasant  odor.  It  is  said  that  even  the  potatoes 
are  found  to  contain  fish-bones. 

Back  of  I'erce  is  the  renuirkable  *  Mount  St.  Anne,  with  its  bold  and 
massive  square  top  rising  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  a  distance 
of  70  M.  over  the  water.  This  eminence  may  be  ascended  without  great 
trouble,  and  from  its  summit  is  obtained  one  of  the  noblest  views  in  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  It  includes  many  leagues  of  the  savage  mountain- 
land  of  Gasp^,  extending  also  along  the  coast  from  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to 
Gasp^  Bay  and  Ship  Head.    But  the  marine  view  is  the  most  attractive 


PERCfi. 


RouU  66.      243 


and 


and  embraces  many  leagues  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  great  fish- 
ing-fleets and  squadrons  of  small  boats*.  It  overlooks  Bonaventure  ami 
Perc^  Rock.  A  fine  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  hij^liway  near  French 
Town,  including  a  vast  area  of  the  Gulf,  the  bird^'olonies  on  top  of  the 
Rock,  Point  St.  Peter,  and  Barry  Head,  with  its  conspicuous  Catholic 
church.  The  walk  around  the  mountain  to  the  corner  of  the  beach  is  full 
of  interest;  and  the  road  throuijh  the  hills  to  Gaspt^  is  picture>*<nie,  though 
rough,  leading  by  Corny  jieatdi  and  through  a  profound  tnountain-*;(»rge. 
Mt.  St.  Anne  is  also  known  as  Mt.  Joli  and  the  Table  Hotdantc.  Upon  its 
red -sandstone  slopes  are  found  shell-fossils,  jasper,  agate,  and  fine  quartz 
crystals. 

*  Bonaventure  Island  forms  a  great  natural  breakwater  before  the 
Perc6  shores,  and  is  surrounded  l)y  deep  ehannels.  it  is  2^  M  from  the  main- 
land, and  the  passage  around  the  island  in  a  small  boat  afTords  a  pleasant 
excursion.  Bonaventure  is  2^  M.  long  and  |  M.  wide,  and  is  a  vast  pile 
of  red  conglomerate  rock,  with  a  line  of  clifl's  3-500  ft.  high,  facing  the 
Gulf  over  60  fathoms  of  water.  There  are  about  300  French  Catholics 
on  the  shores,  comiec^ted  with  the  fishing-establishment  of  LeBoutillier 
Brothers.  The  island  was  formerly  the  property  of  Capt.  Duval,  a  brave 
mariner  of  the  Channel  Isles,  who,  in  the  privateer  Vulture,  swept  the 
coasts  of  France  during  the  Napoleonic  wars.    He  is  buried  on  Motmt  Joli. 

*•  Perc^  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  the  St.  Lawrenci'.  If  one  should  Iteliove  all  the 
fiintastic  ctories,  to  which  traUitinn  ndils  its  prestige,  that  rest  iilMtut  this  formidable 
rook,  thrown  forward  into  a  ceaM-lossly  sur^iiij;  and  often  stormy  sea,  like  a  fearless 
defiance  from  the  shoal  to  the  ul)y8H,  it  ( ould  only  be  approached  with  a  mvfterious 
dread  mingled  with  anguish.  I'erce  proper  is  a  villagi'  of  2(X)  firesides,  established 
on  a  promontory  that  seems  to  guard  the  St.  Lawn-nce  ;  thi'<  promontory  Is  not  lofty, 
nor  does  it  conipan>  with  our  north«>rn  mountains;  but  it  is  wrinkled,  menacing, 
full  of  a  fierce  grandeur  ;  it  might  be  said  tlmt  the  hmg  buttle  with  the  ocean  has 
revealed  to  it  its  strength  and  tlic  power  which  it  holds  from  (Jod  to  n^strain  the 
wares  from  passing  their  appointed  t>ounds.  It  is  an  arciier  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
coyered  with  iron,  immovable  in  his  armor,  and  who  receives,  invulnerable,  all  the 
blows  of  the  enemy.  In  fa<'e  of  the  Atlantic,  whlcij  has  Waten  it  witli  tempests 
through  thoaxands  of  centuries,  trembling  under  the  et4>rnal  shower  of  the  waves, 
but  immovable  as  a  dwrt-e  of  heaven,  gloomy,  thougiitfui,  enduring  without  mur- 
mur the  wrathful  torrents  that  inund.-tte  it,  i)ent  downward  like  a  fallen  god  who 
expiates  in  an  eternity  the  arrogtint  pricle  of  a  cingle  day,  Pcrct^  fills  us  at  once  with 
a  sorrowful  admiration  and  a  sublime  pity.''    (Autmur  Dunes.) 

Perctf  was  visited  by  Carticr  in  \r)i^,  and  thereafter  b<'came  a  celebrated  flshfiig- 
Btation  for  the  Freiu-h  ticcts.  The  coast  from  ('an.so  to  Cape  Rosier  was  granted 
Boon  after,  and  on  its  reversion  to  the  Crown  this  site  was  bestowed  on  De  Fronsac, 
who  founded  a  t»ermanent  villagt^  here,  while  over  TiOO  transient  fishermen  made  it  a 
summer  rendezvous.  Uishop  ijaval  sent  the  Knmciscans  here  in  lt)73  to  look  after 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people,  and  they  ere<'ted  a  ch.i|K'l  at  Perce  and  the 
Church  of  8t  (Uaire  on  Bonaventure  Island.  In  l*?l*!i  the  place  was  taken,  with  all 
its  ves.sels,  by  two  Hriti^h  I'rigites.  whose  cn-ws  sacked  and  burnt  all  the  houses  at 
l'erc6  and  Bonaventure,  de>troyed  the  churches,  and  tired  150  gunshots  through^ 
the  picture  of  St.  Peter.  In  ITU  another  naval  atti*  k  was  made  by  the  British, 
and  the  French  ships  Hims  and  Vermamlois  were  captured  in  the  harbor.  In  Xl'S 
a  desperate  naval  combat  took  pliu'e  olT  Perce  Ko<'k,  between  the  American  prl-i 
vateers  that  had  devastated  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  British  WW* 
vessels  WoZ/'and  Diligence,  Two  of  the  American  veseeU  wer«  sunk  within  caosoir 
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244      Route  66. 


GASP^. 


After  leaving  her  anchorage  off  Perc^  the  steamship  runs  N.  across  the 
openings  of  Mai  Bay,  and  at  9  M  out  passes  Point  St  Peter,  with  its  fish- 
ing-village. The  course  is  next  laid  to  the  N  W.  up  Gaspr  Bay,  with  the 
fatal  strand  of  the  Grand  Gi*eve  on  the  r.  To  the  1.  is  Douylnstown,  on 
the  broad  lagoon  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River  (famous  for  salmon). 
This  town  was  laid  out  bv  Surveyor  Douglas,  and  is  inhabited  bv  Irish 
and  P'rench  people.  The  vessel  now  steams  in  through  the  narrow  strait 
between  the  grand  natural  breakwater  of  Sandy  beach  and  the  N.  shore, 
and  enters  the  *  Gaspe  fiasin.  The  bay  is  20  M.  long  and  5  M.  wide, 
and  the  basin  is  a  secure  and  land-locked  harbor  at  its  head.  As  the 
Rteamer  rounds  the  lighthouse  on  Sandybeach,  beautiful  views  are  pre- 
sented of  the  broad  haven,  with  the  North  River  Mts.  to  the  W. 

'*  The  mountains  of  Gaspe  are  fair  to  behold, 
With  their  fleckings  of  shadow  and  gleamings  of  gold." 

Gasp^  {Gulf  House)  Is  a  town  of  600  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated 
between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  fronting  on  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the 
basin.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  county  and  a  free  port  of  entry,  and  is  de- 
voted to  the  fisheries,  having  several  whaling-ships  and  a  large  fleet  of 
schooners.  The  Gaspe  codfish  are  preferred,  in  the  Mediterranean  ports, 
to  the  Newfoundhnid  fish,  because  they  are  not  so  salty  The  chief 
establishment  here  is  that  of  the  LeBoutilliers,  who  have  also  a  fine 
mansion  near  the  village.  Petroleum  has  been  found  here,  and  wells  7  -  800 
ft.  deep  have  been  sunk  by  two  companies.  Gasp^  is  visited  by  2-300 
city  people  every  summer,  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  scenery,  cool 
and  sparkling  air,  and  the  conveniences  for  yachting  and  for  fishirg.  The 
York  and  Dartmouth  Rivers  empty  into  the  basin,  and  are  famous  for 
their  game-fish.  Tlie  adjacent  shores  are  fertile  and  are  *hickly  settled, 
and  the  town  itself  is  rapidly  advancing  in  importance.  On  a  hill  to 
the  S.  is  Foi^t  Ramsay,  a  line  of  guns  among  the  trees.  This  is  tne  first 
point  N.  of  Newcastle  where  the  steamer  is  moored  to  a  wharf.  Fort- 
nightly mail -packets  run  from  Gaspd  to  Esquimaux  Bay,  on  the  Labrador 
coast  (see  page  230). 

''  What  a  glorious  sight!  Tmogine  a  hay  20  M.  long  ending  in  a  baMn  where  a 
fleet  of  a  thousand  vessels  oould  be  sheltered  On  right  and  loft,  two  rivers,  which 
are  parted  by  the  port,  Hweep  around  the  nmphithoatrical  shores ;  hills  here  and 
there  of  savage  outline  or  covered  with  rounded  lawns  ;  below,  a  little  line  of  piers, 
flshiiig-vesRols,  schooners  and  some  brigs  swinging  their  slackened  sails  in  the  light 
l)rceze  which  blows  from  the  shores  ;  sometliing  wild,  fresh,  and  vigorous,  like  the 
first  spring  of  a  great  creation  The  (laspt?  Basin  has  traits  of  the  giant  and  of  the 
infant ;  it  astonishes  and  charms ;  it  has  a  harmony  at  once  delicate  and  striking.' 
(Arthur  liuiEs.) 

The  Indians  of  Oaspi  were  distinguished,  in  a  remote  age,  for  unusual  advances 
in  civilization.  They  knew  the  points  of  the  compass,  traced  maps  of  their  country, 
observed  the  positions  of  the  stars,  and  worsliipped  the  symbol  of  the  cross.  They 
informed  the  early  Jesuit  ndssionaries  that  in  far  distant  ages  they  were  scourged 
by  a  fatal  pestilence,  until  a  venerable  man  landed  on  their  shore,  and  arrested  the 
progress  of  the  disease  by  erecting  the  cross  (see  PfcRB  Leclerc's  Nouvelle  Relation  dt 


gaspe!^ 


Route  66.      245 


ta  Gaspisie,  1676).  It  is  supposed  that  this  mysterious  visitor  was  a  Norseman.  The 
name  Gaspi  means  ''  land's  end,"  one  of  it'*  componeut  parts  being  found  also  ia 
the  atforiginal  words  Mala-gash,  Tracadie-gash ,  etc.  Tlie  warlike  trbes  on  mis 
shore  were  formerly  distinguished  for  their  fierce  and  victorious  forays  into  the  re- 
mote lands  of  the  Moutaiguuis  and  Esquimaux. 

Prof.  Rafn,  the  great  Danish  archjvologist,  has  advanced  a  theory  to  the  effect 
that  Oaspe  was  a  fishing-stjition  of  tlie  Norse  vikings  ia  the  lltli,  i2th,  and  13th 
centuries.  It  is  supposed  that  it  wa.«  visited  in  1500  by  the  iSpanisli  mariner  Vela>co, 
who  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  for  200  leagues,  or  else  by  Stefano  Gomez,  who  was 
sailing  from  Spain  to  Cuba  in  1525,  but  was  blown  far  from  his  cour8*\  and  entired 
the  Gulf  of  8t.  Lawrence.  There  is  an  old  Castiiian  tradition  that  the  gold-M-eking- 
Spaniards,  finding  no  precious  metals  here,  said,  "  Ara  nnoa  "  ("  Tiiere  is  notliing 
here" I.  This  oft-repeated  plirase  became  fixed  in  tlie  memory  of  the  Indians, 
tiiough  it  was  not  comprehenJcil ;  and  when  Cartier  came,  they  supposed  him  to  be 
of  the  same  people  as  the  previou-t  European  visitors,  and  endeavored  to  excite  his 
interest  by  repeating  the  words,  "  .\ca  n&da,  Aca  nada."  He  thought  that  tliey 
were  giving  him  tiie  name  of  their  nation  or  country,  and  so,  according  to  this 
puerile  tradition,  arose  the  name  of  Canada.  Another  theory  of  the  derivation  of 
the  name  was  given  by  the  early  New-Englanders  :  "  New  J'itigland  is  by  some  af- 
firmed to  be  an  island,  bounded  on  the  north  with  the  River  Canada  (so  called  from 
Monsieur  Cane)."  {J  OiSE\.Y}i' ^  JVpw  England's  Rarities  Discovered,  1612.)  "From 
this  lake  northwards  is  derived  the  famous  Kiver  of  Canada  so  named  of  Monsieur 
de  Cane,  a  French  Lord,  who  first  planted  a  colony  of  French  in  America."  (Mor- 
ton's New  Enalisli  Canaan,  1*332  ) 

The  generally  received  account  of  the  origin  of  the  name  (Canada  is  that  it  is  an 
Indian  compound  word.  Caugh-na-waugh-a  means  "  the  village  of  the  rapid,"  its 
first  syllable  being  similar  to  that  of  the  Indian  word  Caugh-na-daugh,  "  village  of 
huts"  (also  of  Caug/i-iju-ga,  or  Cayuga,  and  Cntigk-na-daugk-ga^  now  'Janan- 
daigua),  which  has  been  euphonized  into  "  Canada."  Wlien  Brant,  the  Mohawk 
chieftain,  translated  the  Gospel  of  St.  Matthew  into  his  own  language,  he  always 
put  Canada  for  "  a  village." 

In  April,  1534  (being  then  in  his  fortieth  year),  the  bold  and  sagacious  Jaques 
Cartier  set  sail  from  ancient  St.  Malo  ("  thrust  out  like  a  buttress  into  the  sea, 
strange  and  grim  of  aspect,  breatiiiiig  war  from  its  walls  and  battlements  of  ragged 
stone,  —  a  strong.io:d  of  privateers,  the  home  of  a  race  whose  iutractjible  and  de- 
fiant independence  n  ither  time  nor  change  has  subdued").  He  was  under  the 
patronage  of  Philippe  de  Brion-Chabot.  Admiral  of  Fran*  3,  and  wjis  sent  forth  to 
reconnoitre  a  new  route  to  Cathay,  for  the  great  advantage  of  European  conunerce. 
It  was  also  thought  that  in  the  new  realms  beyond  the  sea  the  Catholic  Church 
mig'.it  make  such  conquests  as  would  requite  her  for  the  gitsat  schisms  of  Luther  !;nd 
Calvin  and  the  Anglican  Church.     The  result  has  nearly  justified  the  hope. 

The  intrepid  voyager  traversed  the  Strait  of  Belle  L^le,  and  stretched  across  to 
the  Baiedes  Chaleurs,  whicli  was  entered  on  the  9th  of  July,  and  received  its  name 
from  the  intense  heats  which  the  mariners  encountered  there.  He  then  laii<led  at 
Gaspt ,  and  took  possession  of  t  le  country  in  the  name  of  his  Church  and  King  by 
erecting  a  cross,  30  ft  high,  adorned  witli  the  lieur-de-lis.  Hero  he  met  a  company 
of  warriors  from  tiiiebec,  campaigning  against  the  natives  of  this  region,  a\id  car- 
ried two  of  tliem  to  France.  They  were  introduced  to  all  the  splendors  of  I'aris 
and  the  court  of  Francis  L,aud  in  the  folio .ving  year  returned  witn  ('artier  aud 
piloted  his  fleet  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  their  home  at  Stadacona  (Quebec). 

"  Twenty  vessels  were  laden  with  stores,  food,  building  implements,  guns,  and 
ammunition  ;  nearly  150  pieces  of  ordnance  were  stoweii  away  in  tlie  different  holds, 
to  be  mounte  I  upon  the  walls  of  Quebec  and  other  forts;  the  deciks  were  crowded 
wirh  emigrants,  male  and  female;  priests  were  there,  burning  with  reiigious  zeal; 
aud  everv  thing  looked  hopeful  for  their  succes-i.  The  whole  tlect  was  put  under  the 
couimand  of  M.  de  lUxiuemont,  a  French  .Vdniiral ;  and  full  of  ho|)eand  ex|>ectatiou 
they  set  sail  from  France  in  the  month  of  .\|»ril,  lt>27."  This  stately  fi«!et  was  over- 
taken by  a  storm  in  the  Gulf,  and  took  refuge  in  Gispe  Bay,  where  they  were  boldly 
attacked  by  Captain  Kirke's  English  siiuadron  of  3  vessels.  Kirke  summoned  the 
immensely  superior  French  Heet  to  surrender,  but  Do  Roquemont,  though  unprepared 
for  battle,  and  hampered  with  freight  and  non-combatants,  sent  back  a  spirited  refusal. 
The  Kirkes  then  sailed  boldly  into  the  hostile  fleet,  and  after  raking  the  Admiral's 


:1! 


^iti 


!.    it 


246      Route  07.   THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

ship,  carried  it  by  boarding.  The  French  resisted  but  feebly,  and  the  whole  squad- 
ron fell  into  the  bold  Briton's  hands.  He  burnt  10  vessels,  and  freighted  the  others 
with  the  grmid  train  of  artillery  and  the  other  stores,  with  which  he  returned  to 
England'  Ciiam plain  was  icft  in  despair,  at  Quebec  ;  and  the  Kirkes  were  burnt 
in  efligy  in  tiie  I'lace  de  (Irtvc,  at  Paris. 

Gasp6  wa<i  honored,  in  l*)*)^,  by  the  t-ojourn  of  the  brave  old  Baron  Dubois  d'Av- 
augour,  some  tin  e  Governor  ot'  New  France.  From  this  point  lie  sent  his  celebrated 
memorial  to  Colbert,  tlie  Freiieli  Priu;e  Minister,  after  he  had  been  deposed  from 
office  through  the  iuHuenee  of  Bisiiop  l>aval  and  the  Jesuit'^.  Hence  he  saiied  to 
France,  and  soon  met  a  soldier's  death  in  the  Croatian  fortress  ot  Zrin,  which  he 
wajs  defending  against  the  Turks. 

In  the  year  1760  Coniniodore  Byron's  powerful  flee*  entered  Gaspt  Basin  and 
captured  the  village.  The  French  frigate  Lti  Catliamin  was  in  the  harbor,  but 
was  soon  taken  and  deatrojed  by  fire  Many  \ears  ago  the  Gaspesian  peninsula  was 
erected  into  a  province,  and  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  this  town.  But 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  not  enough  to  warrant  the  expense  of  a  vice-regal 
court,  and  the  peninsula  was  reannexed  to  Quebec. 

Ill  leaving  Gaspe  Hiisin  the  steamship  passes  the  beaches  of  the  N. 
shore,  lined  with  whale-huts  and  fish-stages,  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  K. 
down  Gasp^  Bay.  *Cape  Gasp6  is  7^  M.  N.  of  Point  St.  Peter,  and 
fronts  the  Gulf  with  a  line  of  sandstone  cliffs  692  ft.  high.  Ofl"  the  S  E. 
point  there  was  formerly  a  statue-like  rock  100  ft.  high,  called  La  Vieille 
(the  Old  Woman),  but  it  has  been  thrown  down  by  the  sea.  The  Indians 
named  this  rock  Gasepion,  whence  the  name  Gaspe,  which  is  now  applied 
to  the  great  peninsula  between  the  Bay  o^  Chaleur  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  Two  leagues  beyond  Cape  Gaspe  the  steamship  passes  Cape  Rosier, 
and  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 


67.  The  Lower  St.  Lawrence. 

*•  The  most  interesting  object  in  Canada  to  roe  was  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  known 
far  and  wide,  and  for  centuries,  as  the  Great  River.  Cartier,  its  di>coverer,  sailed 
up  it  as  far  as  Montreal  in  li)35,  nearly  a  century  before  the  coming  of  the  Pil- 
grims ;  and  I  liave  seen  a  pretty  accurate  map  of  it  so  far,  containing  the  city  of 
•  Hoclielaga' and  the  river  '  Saguenay,' in  Oitelius's  T/ieatriini  Vrbis  Termrum, 
printed  at  Antwerp  in  1576.  in  whidi  the  f  imous  cities  of  '  Norumbega '  and  '  Or- 
sinora'  stand  on  the  rough-blocked  continent  where  New  England  is  to-day,  and 
the  fabulous  but  unfortunate  Isle  of  Demons,  and  Frislant,  and  others,  li»' ott  and 
on  in  the  unfrequented  sea,  some  of  them  prowling  near  what  is  now  the  course  of 
the  Cunard  steamers.  It  was  famous  in  Fkirope  before  the  other  rivers  of  North 
America  were  heard  of,  notwithstanding  that  the  mouth  of  the  Mis.'issippi  is  said  to 
have  » een  discovered  first,  and  its  i-tre.ni  was  reached  by  De  Soto  not  long  after; 
but  the  St.  Lawrence  liad  attracted  settlers  to  its  i  old  shores  long  before  the  Missis- 
riippi,  or  even  the  Hudson,  was  known  to  the  world.  The  first  explorers  declared 
that  the  summer  in  that  country  was  as  warm  as  France,  and  they  named  one  of 
the  bays  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lasvrencc  the  Bay  of  t'haleur,  or  warmth  ;  but  they 
said  nothing  about  the  winter  being  as  cold  as  Greenland.  In  the  MS  account 
of  Cartier's  second  voyage  it  is  culled  '  the  greatest  riv(>r,  without  compari.'^^on, 
that  is  known  to  have  ever  leen  seen.'  The  savages  told  him  that  it  wa«  the 
*C/iemin  du  Cnuarhi''  (the  highway  to  Canada),  *  which  goes  so  far  that  no  man 
hath  ever  been  to  the  end,  that  they  had  heard.'  The  Saguenay,  one  of  its  tribu- 
taries, is  described  by  Cartier  in  1;'35,  and  still  more  particularly  by  .lean  Alphonse 
in  1542,  who  adds  ;  '  I  think  that  this  river  comes  from  the  sea  of  Cathay,  for  in 
thi.s  place  there  issues  a  strong  current,  and  then'  runs  here  a  terrible  tide.'  The 
early  explorers  saw  many  whales  anci  other  sea  monsters  far  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Champlain,  in  hi-t  map,  represents  a  whale  spouting  in  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  360  M. 
from  what  may  b«  called  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  and  Charlevoix  toolc  bis  reader  to 


CAPE  ROSIER. 


Route  67.      247 


ie  squad- 
he  others 
turned  to 
;rc  burnt 

)ois  d'Av- 
clebrated 

)!-t'd  from 
eaiied  to 

which  he 

Basin  and 
,rbor,  but 
Dsula  was 
iwn.  But 
vice-regal 


if  the  N. 
the  S.  K. 
;ter,  and 
theS  E. 
,a  Vieille 
!  Indians 
V  applied 
-awrence 
;  Hosier, 


>ce,  known 
rer,  suiled 
)f  the  Pil- 
hc  city  of 
Terrnrum , 

and  '  Or» 
n-day ,  and 

lie  otT  and 

couri-e  of 
<  of  North 
i  is  said  to 
ong  after ; 
tlic  Missis- 
s  declared 
icd  one  of 

but  they 
S  account 
)mparl^on, 
it  was  tiie 
it  no  man 
f  it.*  tribu- 
1  Alphouse 
liav,  for  in 
ide.'     Tlie 

Lawrence. 
360,360  M. 
8  reader  to 


the  sum'nit  of  Cape  Diamond  to  8ce  the  *  porpoises,  white  as  snow,'  sporting  on  the 
surface  i  the  harbor  of  Quebec.  In  ChanipUiin'a  day  it  was  couunonly  called  '  the 
Great  lliver  of  Oaiiadii.'  More  than  one  nation  has  claimed  it.  In  Ofjilby's  •  Amer- 
ica of  1670,''  in  the  map  Novi  Bfli(i,  it  is  called  '  IX;  (Iroote  Uivicr  van  Niew  Ne- 
dcrlandt  '  It  rises  near  atiotliur  father  of  waters,  the  Mississipi)i,  issuiiifj;  from  a 
remarkable  sprin<;j  far  up  in  the  woods,  called  Lake  SuiKsrior,  l,5tM  M.  in  circum- 
ference; and  several  other  springs  there  are  thereabouts  which  IWhI  it.  It  makes 
such  a  noise  in  its  tumhlin;^  down  at  one  place  as  is  heard  all  round  the  world. 
Bouchetta,  the  Surveyor-dcneral  of  the  Cauadas,  calls  it  'the  most  splendid  river 
on  the  globe  *  ;  says  that  it  is  2,000  M  long  (more  recent  geographers  m:ike  it  4  -fjO^) 
M.  longer  );  that  at  the  Rivien!  du  Sud  it  is  11  .M.  wide  ;  at  the  I'aps  of  Matatie,  25  ; 
at  the  Seven  Islands,  73;  and  at  its  mouth,  from  Cape  Rosier  to  the  Miug.in  8etMe- 
monts  in  Labrador,  DtJ  M.  wide.  It  has  m.ich  tlie  largest  estuary,  regarding  botii 
length  and  breadth,  of  any  river  on  the  gloi>e.  Perhaps  Charlevoix  descrii)es  tiie 
St  Lawrence  truly  as  the  most  nuvindble  river  in  the  world.  Between  Montreal 
and  Quebec  it  averages  2  M.  wide.  The  tide  is  felt  as  far  up  as  Three  Rivers,  43J 
M.,  which  is  as  far  as  from  Boston  to  Washington.  Tiie  geographer  CJuyot  ob- 
serves that  the  Maranon  is  3,W0  M.  long,  and  gathers  its  waters  from  a  surface  of 
l,oOO,<X)0  square  M.  ;  that  the  Mississippi  is  also  3,000  M.  long,  l»ut  its  basin  covers 
only  8-900,000  squire  M.  ;  that  the  ^«t.  Lawrence  is  1,8<X)  M.  long,  and  its  ba.siu 
covers  1.000,000  stjuare  M.  ;  and  speaking  of  the  lakes,  lie  .adds  :  '  These  vast  fresh- 
water seas,  together  with  t!ie  St.  Lawrence,  cover  a  surface  of  nearly  lOO.OiK)  square 
W.,  and  it  has  been  calculated  that  they  contain  about  one  half  of  all  the  In^sh 
water  on  the  surface  of  our  planet  '  Pilots  say  tliere  are  no  soundings  till  150  M. 
up  the  St  Lawrence.  McTaguart,  an  engineer,  observes  that  '  the  Ottawa  is  larger 
t.ian  all  the  rivers  in  Great  i>ritain,  were  they  running  in  one.'  The  traveller  flrey 
writes  :  '  There  is  not  perhaps  in  tlie  whole  extent  of  this  immense  continent  .lio  fine 
an  approach  to  it  as  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  In  the  Southern  States  you  have, 
in  general,  a  level  country  for  many  miles  inland  ;  here  you  are  introduced  at  once 
into  a  majestic  scenery,  where  everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  —  mountains,  woods, 
lakes,  rivers,  precipices,  waterfalN."  We  have  not  yet  the  data  for  a  minute  com- 
parison of  the  St.  Lawrence  witli  the  South  American  rivers;  but  it  is  obvious  that, 
taking  it  in  connection  with  its  lakes,  its  estuary,  and  its  fills,  it  ejusily  bears  off 
the  palm  from  all  tlie  rivers  on  the  globe."  (Freely  condensed  fiom  Tho;ie.\u*s 
A  Yankee  in  Canada.) 


"  Bien  loin  de  ses  courbis,  sous  I'ombre  des 
pl.itanes, 
L'Arabe  au  bluiit-he  burnous  qui  suit  les 
caravanes 
Sur  les  sables  errant 
Dccouvre  moins  joyeux  son  oasis  hiimide, 
Que  les  Canadtens  .sous  la  snison  torride 
Leur  fleuvc  Sanit-Laurent. 


A  nous  ses  champs  d  azur  et  ges  fralches 

ri'traites. 
Lea  ilots  couronnis  dc  mournntes  aigrettes, 

Los  nioiits  tuiducicux. 
I^es  arOnies  niqncnts  que  1 1  luer  v  depose 
Et  sou  gruiid  liorizon  oil  votre  oeil  se  repose 

Coinmc  1  etoile  aux  ciciix. ' 

L.  J.   C.   FiSET. 


Sur  ces  bords  cnuhantes,  notrc  mere,  la 

France, 
A  laisse  de  sa  ^iloire  \\n  imniortel  sillon. 
Precipitant  ses  Ilots  vers  rocv'an  iinnienso, 
Le  noble   Saint-Laurent   redit  eticor  son 

nom. 

*•  Salut,  6  ma  belle  patrio  ' 
Salut,  o  hord.s  di  Saint-Laurent 
Terre  que  ri'tniDfrer  cn\  ic, 
Et  qu  it  regri'tte  cu  la  (luittant 
Ueureux  qui  peut  passer  sa  vie, 


Toiijours  fidelc  a  tc  servir : 
Et  dans  tes  bins,  mere  clurie, 
Peut  rendre  son  dernier  soupir. 

Sabit,  6  ciel  de  ma  pntrie  ! 
Salttt,  o  noble  Saint-Liiurent  I 
Ton  noin  dans  nioii  iinu*  attendrie 
Repaiul  un  p.u'fiim  cni\rant. 
<>  'Jnnsida,  flls  dc  In  France, 
Qui  tc  cnii\rit  dc  ses  bienfaits, 
'I'oi,  notre  amour,  notrc  espcrance. 
Qui  pourra  toublicr  jamais  ?  ' 

O.  CkAmazir. 


Cape  Rosier,  "the  Scylla  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  6  M.  beyoml  Cape 
Gasp^,  and  is  the  S.  portal  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  whose  month  at 
this  point  Is  96  M.  wide.  At  the  end  of  the  cape  is  a  stone  lighthouse 
tower,  112  ft.  liigh,  with  a  fixed  light  (visible  16  M.)  and  a  fog-horn. 

The  hamlets  of  Grand  Greve,  Griffin's  Cove,  and  Cape  Rosier 
are  hi  this  vicinity,  and  are  inhabited  by  French  people,  who  are  de- 


<44 

4" 


248      Route  67. 


CAPE  MAGDELAINE. 


pendent  on  the  tiMhing-establishmcnt  of   William   Flyman  &  Sons,  of 
Gaspt'. 

"The  coast  between  Cape  Rosier  and  Cape  Chatte  is  high  and  bold,  free 
from  dangers,  and  destitute  of  liarbors,"  and  is  lined  with  a  niiijestic  wall 
of  mountains  composed  of  shite  and  graywacke.  Thoy  are  covered  with 
forests,  and  aflbrd  successions  of  noble  views,  sometimes  of  amphithe- 
ntrical  coves,  sometimes  of  distant  vistas  of  blue  peaks  up  the  long  gorges 
of  the  rivers. 

"  How  can  it  \>e  that  men  inhabit  this  harsh,  arid,  roiijijh,  almost  hateful  country, 
whiolj  oxtL'uds  from  Cap(*  Chatte  t()  tlw  Ouspo  P.asiii  ?  One  ean  Fcarcoly  imagine. 
Yet,  as  you  Fee,  lei*©  and  tliere  appear  parrels  of  tilled  land,  liou^es  scattered  along 
the  banks,  and  liftle  churelies  at  various  points." 

"  Tl»o  peninsula  of  C«asp»^,  tlie  land's  end  of  Canada  towards  the  E  ,  from  its  gcr- 
logicul  formation  of  sliale  and  limestone,  presenting  their  upturned  edges  toward 
the  sea  und  dipping  inland,  forms  long  ranges  of  beetling  clitfH  running  down  to  a 
narrow  strip  of  beach,  and  affording  no  resting-place  even  to  the  finhernien,  except 
where  thoy  have  been  cut  down  by  streams,  ami  pre.-ent  little  coves  and  bays  open- 
ing back  into  deep  glens,  affording  a  view  of  great  rolling  wooded  ridges  that  Htand 
rank  after  rank  behind  the  great  sea-cUff,  though  with  many  fine  valleys  between  " 

7  M.  N.  W.  of  Cape  Rosier  the  settlement  at  GriJ/ln's  Core  is  passed;  and 
5  M.  farther  on  is  Fox  Rirer  (Cloridorme),  a  settlement  of  500  persons,  with 
one  of  the  Isle-of-,Tersey  fishing-establishments,  a  large  Catholic  church, 
and  a  court-house.  The  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries  are  followed  in  the 
adjacent  waters,  and  large  American  fieets  are  ofteu  seen  off  the  port. 
The  grand  highNvay  from  Quebec  ends  here,  but  a  rugged  road  runs  down 
to  Gaspe  in  17  M.  The  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  French.  16  M  farther 
W.  is  the  haven  called  Great  Pond,  24  M.  beyond  which  is  Cape  Magde- 
laine  {red-and-white  revolving  light,  visible  15-20  M.)  at  the  month  of  the 
River  Magdelaine,  the  home  of  some  of  the  wildest  legends  of  this  region. 

•*  Where  is  the  Canadian  sailor,  familiar  with  this  coast,  who  has  not  heard  of  the 
plaintive  Bounds  and  doleful  cries  uttered  by  tlie  Braillard  ite  la  Magdelaine? 
Where  would  you  find  a  native  seaman  who  would  consent  to  spend  a  few  days  by 
himself  in  this  locality,  wherein  a  troubled  spirit  K'eks  to  make  known  the  torments 
it  endures?  Is  it  the  soul  of  a  shipwrecked  mariner  asking  for  Christian  burial  for 
its  bones,  or  imploring  the  prjvyers  of  the  church  for  its  repose  ?  Is  it  the  voice  of 
the  murderer  condemned  to  expiate  his  crimes  on  the  very  spot  whicli  witnessed 
its  commission  ?  ....  For  it  is  well  known  that  (jia.sp»>  wreckers  have  not  alwajs 
contented  themselves  with  robbery  and  pillage,  but  have  sometimes  sought  conceal- 
ment and  impunity  by  making  away  with  victims,  —  convinced  that  the  tomb  is 
silent  and  reveals  not  its  secrets.''  The  Abbe  Ctu«grain  attributes  tliese  weird 
sounds  to  the  fate  of  a  priest  who  refused  to  christen  a  child  who  afterwards  was 
lost  by  dying  unbaptized.  The  conscience-stricken  priest  faded  away  to  a  skeleton, 
and  the  sound  of  his  moaning  has  ever  since  been  heard  off  the^o  dark  shores.  An- 
other legend  tells  that  a  terrible  shipwreck  occurred  at  this  point,  and  that  the  only 
soul  that  rcHched  the  shore  was  a  baby  boy,  who  lay  wailing  on  the  beach  through- 
out the  stormy  night.  "  Where  La  Mngdelaine  runs  into  the  Uulf,  horizontal  layers 
of  lin)estone,  fretted  away  all  around  their  base  by  the  action  of  the  tides  and 
waves,  assume  the  mo'^t  fantastic  shajies,  —  here  representing  ruins  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, there  forming  hollow  caverns  into  which  the  surf  rolling  produces  a  moan- 
ing sounil,  like  an  unquiet  spirit  seekir^sr  repose."  The  stninge  wailing  which  is 
heard  at  certain  sea.sons  along  this  shore  is  otherwise  referred  to  the  rush  of  the 
wind  through  tie  pine-trees  on  the  cape,  whose  trunks  grate  together  with  a  harsh 
creaking. 


way. 


CAPE  CHATTE. 


RouU  67.      249 


of 


Pleureuse  Point  is  12  M.  from  Cape  Magdelaine,  and  near  the  remote 
hamlet  of  Mont  Louis.  Lines  of  wild  dills  front  the  shore  for  the  i  ext  28 
M.,  to  Cape  St.  Anne,  near  which  is  the  French  Catholic  village  of  St. 
Anne  des  Monts,  which  has  250  inhabitants  and  a  consulate  of  Italy.  The 
adjacent  waters  abound  in  mackerel,  cod,  halibut,  and  herring,  and  great 
quantities  of  salmon  and  trout  are  caught  in  the  River  St.  Anne.  The 
stately  peaks  of  the  ♦  St.  Anne  Mountains  are  seen  on  the  S.,  com- 
mencing 12  M.  S.  VV.  of  Cape  St.  Anne  and  running  in  a  S.  W.  course  for 
40  M.,  nearly  parallel  with  the  river  and  20-25  M.  inland.  These  moun- 
tains are  the  most  lofty  in  Canada,  and  are  visible  for  80-90  M.  at  sea, 
in  clear  weather.  The  chief  peak  is  14  M.  from  Cape  Chatte,  and  is» 
3,973  ft.  high. 

"  All  those  who  come  to  New  France  know  well  enough  the  mountainfl  of  Notre 
Dame,  because  the  pilots  and  sailors  beinK  arrived  at  that  part  of  tlie  great  river 
which  is  opposite  to  those  high  iiiountaius,  baptize  ordinarily  for  sport  the  new 
passengeri!,  if  they  do  not  turn  aside  by  some  present  the  inundation  of  this  baptism 
which  is  made  to  How  plentifully  on  their  heads."    (Lalemant,  1G48.) 

Caps  Chatte  is  15  M.  N  VV.  of  Cape  St.  Anne,  and  sustains  a  white 
flashing  light  which  is  visible  for  18  M. 

Cape  Chatte  was  named  in  honor  of  the  officer  who  sent  out  the  expedition  of 
1603,  under  Pontgravi;  and  Lescarbot.  His  style  was  Eyniard  de  ('haste,  Knight 
of  Malta,  Commander  of  Lormetiin,  Orand  Master  of  the  Order  of  St.  Lazarus,  and 
Governor  of  Diepf»e 

Somewhere  in  this  broad  re:u-h  of  the  river  occurred  the  "hivalrous  naval  battle 
between  the  English  war-vessel  Abigail  and  the  French  whip  of  Emery  de  Caen  (son 
of  Lord  de  la  Motte).  The  Ahinnil  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Kirke,  and  was  sailing 
against  Tadousac,  when  slie  was  attiu^kcd  (June,  1629)  by  De  Caen.  A  running  fight 
of  several  hours  ensued,  until  a  fortunate  cannon-shot  from  the  Abif^ait  cut  away 
a  mast  on  the  French  vessel  and  compelled  her  to  surrender.  Tiie  loss  on  each 
ship  was  considerable. 

The  reach  of  the  St.  Lawrence  next  entered  is  about  35  M.  wide,  and 
on  the  N.  shore  is  Point  de  Monts  (see  page  233).  It  is  33  M.  from  Cape 
Chatte  to  Matane,  In  which  the  steamer  passes  the  hamlets  of  Dalibaire 
and  St.  Felicite.  In  1688  the  Sleur  Rlverin  established  a  sedentary  fish- 
ery at  Matane,  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  codfish  and  whales.  Sometimes 
as  many  as  50  whales  were  seen  at  one  time  from  the  shore.  This  branch 
of  the  fisheries  has  now  greatly  declined.  Matane  is  a  village  of  300  in- 
habitants, devoted  to  farming  and  lumbering,  and  is  visited  by  Canadian 
citizens  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  on  the  fine  sandy 
beach.  There  is  also  good  fishing  for  trout  and  ssilmon  on  the  Matane 
River.  The  remarkable  peaks  called  the  Citjis  of  Matane  are  to  the  S.W., 
in  the  great  Gaspesian  wilderness.  In  clear  weather,  when  a  few  miles  K. 
of  Matane,  and  well  out  in  the  river,  Mt.  Coiumii  may  be  seen,  40  M. 
distant,  S.  W.  by  W.  \  W.,  like  an  island  on  the  remote  horizon. 

The  shore  is  now  low,  rocky,  and  wooded,  and  runs  S.  VV.  22  M.  to 
Petit  Metin,  which  was  populated  with  Scottish  families  by  its  seigneur. 
4  M.  from  this  point  is  the  station  of  St.  Octave,  on  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way. M^tis  is  a  little  way  W.,  and  is  occupied  by  260  French  Catholics 
U* 


H 


i! 


t 


250      Route  67. 


RIMOUSKI. 


and  Scotch  Presbyterians.  It  has  a  long  government  wharf;  and  the 
people  are  engaged  also  in  the  pursuit  of  bliick  whales,  which  are  sought 
by  schooners  equipped  with  harpoons,  lances,  etc.  N.  of  Metis,  across 
the  river,  is  the  great  peninsula  of  Manicounf/an,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
rivers  Manicouagan  and  Outardc,  abounding  in  cascades. 

The  steamship  comes  to  off  Father  Point,  where  there  is  a  lighthouse 
and  telegraph  station  (for  news  of  the  shipping),  and  a  hamlet  of  100  in- 
habitants. Here  the  outward-bound  vessels  discharge  their  pilots.  Near 
this  place  are  the  hamlets  of  St  Luce  and  St.  Donat,  and  at  St.  Flavie, 
16  M.  N.  E.,  the  Intercolonial  Railway  reaches  the  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
70).  A  few  miles  S.  K.  is  Mi.  Camille,  which  is  2,036  ft.  high.  Father 
Fo'nt{ Point e  au  Pere)  was  so  named  because  the  priest  Henri  Nouvel 
wintered  there  in  1663.  Canada  geese,  ducks,  and  brant  are  killed  here 
in  great  numbers  during  the  long  easterly  storms. 

St.  Germain  de  Rimouski  {Dominion  Jlotd)  is  6  M. 

from  Father  Point,  and  is  an  incorporated  city,  an  important  station  on 
the  Intercolonial  Railway,  and  the  capitid  of  Rimouski  County  and  of  a 
Roman-Catholic  diocese.  It  has  1,200-  1,500  inhabitants,  with  a  handsome 
cathedral,  a  Catholic  college,  convent,  episcopal  palace,  court-house,  and 
other  public  buddings.  The  Canadian  government  has  built  a  large  and 
substantial  wharf  out  to  the  deep  channel,  and  a  prosperous  future  is  ex- 
pected for  the  young  city.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place, 
attracted  by  its  cool  air  and  fine  scenery. 

Rimouski  was  founded  in  IfiSSf  and  in  1701  a  missionary  was  sent  here,  who 
founded  a  parish  which  has  now  grown  into  a  strong  bishopric.  "  Uimuuski,  the 
future  metropolis  of  tlie  Lower  St.  Lawronoi',  a  little  city  full  of  promise  and  fur- 
rowed already  by  the  rails  of  the  Intercolonial,  will  have  its  harbor  of  i-efngc  where 
the  great  ocean-steamers  will  stop  in  pas.sing,  anr  will  attract  all  tlie  commerce  of 
the  innnense  region  of  the  Meta}M>dia,  the  future  granary  of  our  country."  The 
Rimouski  River  is  famous  for  its  abundance  of  troBt. 

Bainaby  Ifslanrl  is  low  and  wooded,  and  3  M.  long,  sheltering  the  harbor  of 
Rimouski.  It  wiis  knmvn  by  its  present  name  in  1629,  when  the  tlcet  of  the  Kirkes 
a>sembl(  d  here.  From  1723  to  1767  it  was  the  home  of  a  pious  French  hermit,  who 
avoided  women  and  passed  most  of  his  time  in  liis  oratory.  Some  say  that  he  was 
wrecked  off  these  shores,  and  vowed  to  Heaven  to  abide  here  if  he  was  saved  ;  others, 
that  he  had  been  disappointed  in  love.  In  his  last  hours  he  was  visited  by  people 
flrom  Rimouski,  who  found  him  dying,  with  his  faithful  dog  licking  his  chilling 
face. 

Itlc  iHland  was  formerly  called  Le  Pic,  but  v>as  named  St.  Jean  by  Cartier, 
who  entered  its  harbor  in  1535,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  decapitation  of  St.  John. 
It  was  included  in  the  sclieme  of  D'Avaugour  and  Vauban  (in  the  17tli  century)  for 
the  defence  of  Canada,  and  was  intended  to  have  been  made  an  impregnable  mari- 
time fortress,  sheltering  a  harbor  of  refuge  for  the  French  navy.  But  this  Mont  St. 
Miihel  of  the  New  AVorld  never  received  its  ramparts  and  artillery.  The  plm'e  was 
tiken  by  Wolfe's  British  tieet  of  200  ships,  June  18,  1759 ;  and  when  the  Trent  af!air 
threatened  to  involve  the  United  StJites  and  Great  Britain  in  war,  in  1861,  British 
troops  were  landed  at  Bic,  on  the  main  shore,  from  the  ocean-steamship /'^rsta, 
and  were  carried  hence  in  sl«>ii>:hp  to  Kivirre  du  Loup.  Near  this  point  is  I' Islet 
an  Afnssacre,  where,  according  to  tradition,  200  Micmac  Indians  were  onc(  sur- 
prised at  night  by  the  Iroquois,  while  slumbering  in  a  cavern.  The  vengeful  e,icmy 
silently  filled  the  cave's  mouth  with  dry  wood  and  then  set  it  on  fire,  shooting'  the 
unfortunate  Micmacs  iis  thev  leji|>ed  through  the  flanic*.  l!15  of  the  latter  vere 
slain,  and  it  is  claimed  that  their  bones  strewed  the  islet  until  withiu  a  few  yeark. 


TROIS  PISTOLES. 


Rcnile  67.      251 


8te.-C^oile  du  Bio  (two  boarding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  French  vil- 
lage of  600  inhabitants,  with  a  good  Imrbor  and  a  large  and  ugly  church. 
It  is  9  M.  from  Rimouski,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine  scenery.  The  Bay 
of  Bic  is  "large  enough  to  be  majestic,  small  enough  to  l)e  overlooked  in 
one  glance;  a  shore  cut  into  deep  notches,  broken  witli  flats,  capes,  and 
beaches;  a  background  of  mountains  hewn  prodigally  from  the  world's 
material,  like  all  the  landscapes  of  our  Canada."  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way was  carried  through  this  region  at  a  vast  expense,  and  sweeps  around 
the  fiank  of  the  mountain,  200  ft.  above  the  village,  alTording  beautiful 
views.  Wonderful  mirages  are  seen  off  this  port,  and  out  towards  Point 
de  Monts.  The  highlands  immediately  over  Bic  are  nearly  1,300  ft  high; 
and  the  bay  receives  two  rivers,  which  descend  in  cascades  and  rapids 
from  the  neighboring  gorges.  As  the  steamship  passes  the  lighthouse  on 
Biquette  Island,  the  remarkable  and  varied  peaks  of  the  mountains  to  the 
S.  will  attract  the  attention  by  their  fantastic  irregularity.  Between  Bic 
and  Trois  Pistoles,  but  not  visible  from  the  river,  are  the  new  French  vil- 
lages of  St.  Fabien,  among  the  mountains;  St.  Matthien,  w  th  its  great 
quarries  of  red  stone  for  the  Intercolonial  Railway;  and  St.  Simon,  Lear  a 
pretty  highland  lake. 

The  loeky  islets  of  Rosade  are  2  M.  off  the  shore  of '  "otre  Dame  des  Anpes,  and  are 
decorated  with  a  larpe  cross,  in  uicniory  of  a  marvellous  oscap«>.  Some  30  jears  ago 
the  St.  Lawri'nce  froze  for  <>  M.  out  from  the  parish,  and  many  liundrcds  of  seals 
were  discovered  on  the  ice.  Tlie  peo[)k'  pithered  and  went  out  to  slay  these  strange 
visitors,  but  the  ice  suddenly  broke  adrift  and  was  whirled  away  down  the  stream. 
There  appeared  no  hope  of  escape  for  the  40  men  on  the  outer  floes,  whirli  were 
now  J  M  from  the  shore.  Their  fami.ies  and  fricnids  bade  them  an  eternal  farewell, 
and  the  village  priests,  standing  at  t!»e  water's  edge,  p^ve  them  final  ab.*ioIution  in 
preparation  for  the  approaching  catastrophe.  Ilur  even  while  they  were  kneeling 
on  the  ice,  a  bold  mariner  launched  a  tiny  skiff  from  the  shore  and  crossed  the 
widening  belt  of  tumultuous  waters,  touched  the  crumbling  edges  of  the  floes,  and, 
after  many  trips  back  and  forth,  succeeded  in  landing  every  one  of  the  men  upon 
the  isle  of  Ilosade.  Thence  they  passed  easily  to  the  mainlan^^  and  afterwards 
erected  a  cross  on  Rosade,  as  a  token  of  their  gratitude.  v. 

Trois  Pistoles  (two  good  hotels)  is  a  thriving  village  of  650  inhab- 
itants, situated  inside  of  Basque  Island  (5  M.  from  the  Rosades),  and  near 
valuable  deposits  of  limestone.  There  are  two  Catholic  churches  here, 
whose  construction  involved  a  litigious  contest  which  is  still  remembered 
in  Lower  Canada.  The  beauty  of  the  marine  scenery  in  this  vicinity  has 
induced  several  Quebec  gentlemen  to  build  sunnner  cottages  here. 

There  is  a  well-founded  tradition  that  in  the  year  1700  a  traveller  rode  up  to  the 
bank  of  the  then  unsettled  and  unnamed  river  and  asked  the  Norman  fishennan, 
who  •Aras  tending  his  nets  near  his  rude  hut,  what  he  would  charge  to  ferry  him 
across.  "Trois  pistoles"  (three  ten-fr>  no  pieces),  said  the  fisher.  "What  is  the 
name  of  this  river  ?  "  asked  the  traTolitr  "  It  has  no  name  ;  it  will  be  baptized  at 
a  later  day."  "  Well,  then,"  said  the  traveller,  "  uame  it  TVois  Pistoles.''''  The 
river  is  now  fkmous  for  its  fine  trout-fishing. 

"That  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  extending  between  the  Saguenay  River  and 
Ooose  Island  is  about  20  M.  wide.  The  spring  tides  rise  and  fall  a  distance  of  18  ft. 
The  water  is  salt,  but  clear  and  cold,  and  the  channel  very  deep.  Here  may  be  seen 
abundantly  the  black  seal,  the  white  porpoise,  and  the  black  whale."  The  white 
porpoise  yields  an  oil  of  the  best  quality ,  and  its  skin  makes  good  leather. 


■1 

iffij 


m 

m 


252      Jimte  67. 


KAMOURASKA. 


The  Gnlf-Port«  steamship  does  not  stop  between  Father  Point  and 
Quebec,  but  the  villnfjci*  described  in  this  itiiienirv  mny  be  visited  from 
Quebec;  those  on  the  S.  shore  by  ruihvny,  nnd  St.  Paul's  Wax,  Murray 
Rny,  Riviere  du  Loup,  niid  Hiniouski  by  river-steamers.  he  N.  shore 
from  Cape  Tojirmente  to  the  Sapuot'ay  is  dcscrilx'd  iti  Houto  72. 

The  vessel  steams  up  by  O'rcin  Island,  which  is  0  -  7  M.  long,  and  shel- 
ters the  large  manufacturin*^  vill:irr<^  of  Isle  IVWc,  whence  fine  butter  is 
sent  to  Quebec.  On  the  r.  is  7^^/  Island,  with  its  tall  stone  lifjhthouse,  off 
which  is  a  lightship.  Cacouna  and  Riviere  du  Kou[)  (see  Route  72)  are 
next  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  the  vessel  runs  W.  with  the  three  steep  islet.s 
called  the  Brandy  Pots  {Pots-a-V enu-<h-vie)  oji  the  r.  The  S.  islet  bears 
a  fixed  light;  the  N.  islet  is  150  ft.  high,  of  vesiculatcd  conglomerate  in 
which  almond-shaped  bits  of  quartz  are  imbedded.  In  war-time  merchant- 
ships  wait  off  the  Rrandy  Pots  for  their  convoying  frigates.  N.  of  these 
islets  is  Hare  Island,  which  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  has  extensive  salt 
marshes,  on  which  herds  of  cattle  are  kept.  On  IIk*  1.  are  now  seen  the 
five  remarkable  islets  called  The  Pilgrims,  about  \^  M.  from  the  S.  shore 
and  44  M.  in  aggregate  length.  The  Lmuj  Pilijrim  is  300  ft.  high  and  par- 
tially wooded,  and  is  inarked  by  a  lighthouse,  180  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  Kamouraska  Islands  are  C  JM.  farther  W.,  and  over  them  is  seen  the 
pretty  village  of  Kamouraska  {Btanprv  House),  with  its  great  Church  of 
St.  Louis  and  CuugregationaKConvent.  The  river  water  at  this  point  is  ai 
salt  as  the  sea,  and  the  village  was  the  chief  summer  resort  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  before  Cacouna  arose. 

"  Who  does  not  know  Kamouraska  ?  Who  does  not  know  that  it  is  a  charming 
villnpo,  bright  and  picturesque,  bathing  its  feet  in  the  crystal  of  the  waters  of  tlie 
river  like  a  naiad,  and  co<iuettislily  viewing  tlie  retlec-tions  of  its  two  long  ninges  of 
white  houses,  .  *  .  .  so  near  the  river  tliat  fnni  all  the  windows  the  great  waves  may 
be  contemplated  and  their  grand  voices  heard  ?  On  all  sides,  except  towards  the  S., 
the  horizon  extenil  as  far  as  the  e\  e  can  reacli,  and  is  only  bounded  by  the  vast  blue 
curtai  of  the  l^urentide.s.  At  tU«'  N.  K  the  eye  rests  on  a  group  of  verdant  isles, 
like  a  handful  of  emeralds  dropped  by  the  angel  of  the  sesu  ....  These  isles  are  the 
fiivorite  resort  of  the  stningers  who  visit  Kamouraska.  There  they  fish,  or  bathe, 
or  seek  other  amusements.  Le  pique-niqur  is  mucli  in  vogue  there,  and  the  truest 
joys  are  felt." 

St.  Paschal  (700  inhabitants)  Is  6  M.  from  Kamouraska,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway. 

"  Bel  endroit,  Saint-Paschal,  par  sa  croupe  onduleuse, 
Ses  couteaux,  ses  vallona,  sa  route  sinueuse  I 
C'est  la  ^isse  ou  I'Auvergne  avec  leurs  giiis  chalets, 
Leurs  monts,  leurs  prec  en  pente  et  leurs  jurdins  coquets." 

Beyond  Kamouraska  the  steamer  passes  Cape  Diable,  and  on  the  N. 
shore,  22  M.  distant,  are  the  bold  mountains  about  Murray  Bay  (see 
Route  72).  On  the  level  plains  to  the  S.  is  seen  the  tall  Church  of  St. 
Denis,  with  its  attendant  village;  and  beyond  Point  Orignaux  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Riviere  Quelle,  famous  for  its  porpoise-fisheries.  Near  this  point 
is  the  quaint  Casgrain  manor-house,  now  over  a  century  old. 

This  parish  is  named  for  Madam  Houel,  wife  of  Comptroller-General  Houel,  who 
was  captured  here  by  Indians  in  the  17tb  century.    Near  the  beach  is  a  rock  which 


ST.  ANNE  L^  LA  POCATlfiRE.     Rimte  67.      253 


bears  the  plain  ImpreHu  of  threo  snow-nhoefl,  and  formerly  had  the  niarka  of  human 
feet  Jind  handH.  In  KiSH)  the  priest  of  RIvIcth  Oiu-lh'  led  liin  piirichioricrH.  iind  drove 
back  tlio  N«'wKn><laiid(!rH  of  Sir  W  illiaiii  IMiippMB  fleet.  Bjick  among  tlie  hillH  are 
the  hauilets  of  Hi.  OiUsime  and  iit.  '*acome. 

St.  Anna  do  la  Pocati6re{/yf«j<' //o//.  fjisaliirj^c  iin<l  prosjx^rous  town, 
72  M.  Ixilow  (iiu'l)oc,  with  3,000  inhiibitsints,  ji  weekly  paper  (La  (Jazette 
des  Cnnij)(if/ni'8),  ;iii(l  ii  ('(Hiveiit.  ''Nature  has  given  to  St.  Amu;  charm- 
ing shores,  iaiUm  willi  foliage  and  with  ni<;lo(ly,  ravisliing  points  of  view, 
and  venhmt  tl.ickc^ts,  fitted  for  places  of  meditation."  »S7.  Anne's  Coller/e 
is  a  stately  jiile  of  buildings  with  pleasant  surnjundings  a  id  a  sumptuous 
chapel.  It  has  30  profess(>rs  (ecclesiastics)  and  230  student  and  is  main- 
tained in  a  high  state  of  cfllciency.  The  parks  cover  sexcral  acres,  and 
the  museum  is  well  su[)plied.  St.  Aiuie's  Agricultural  School  and  Model- 
Farm  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  has  5  jjrofcssors  (zoiitechny,  rural 
law,  etc.)'  Tlio  view  from  the  dome  of  the  college  is  of  great  extent  and 
beauty. 

As  the  steamer  passes  St.  Amie  the  frowning  mass  of  Mt.  Lboulementg 
is  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  A  few  miles  beyond  St.  Anno  the  hamlet  of  St. 
Rock-(les-Aulnnies  is  passed,  on  the  1 ,  and  still  farther  to  the  VV.  is  St. 
Jean-Poi't-.foU,  a  pretty  little  village  about  which  is  laid  the  scene  of 
Do  Gaspe's  popular  romance,  "  Los  Anciens  Canadiens."  The  Isle  aux 
Coudres  is  far  away  towards  the  N.  shore.  The  course  is  laid  in  by  the 
islet  called  the  Stone  Pillar^  on  which  there  is  a  lighthouse,  and  1^  M. 
farther  VV.  is  the  insulated  rock  of  the  Wood  Pillar.  The  largo  and  pros- 
perous village  of  L'Islet(  1,000  inhabitants)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Goose  Island 
is  passed  on  the  r.,  and  is  connected  with  Crane  Island  {V  Isle  aux  Grues) 
by  a  long  alluvial  meadow,  which  produces  rich  hay,  the  total  i».Mgth 
being  11  M.  Fine  sporting  is  enjoyed  here  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
when  great  flocks  of  snipe,  plover,  and  wild  geese  visit  thqse  shores  for  a 
breeding-plrce.  There  is  a  settlement  of  about  150  persons  on  Crane 
Island,  whence  are  obtained  noblo  views  of  Cape  Tourmente. 

During  the  French  regime  these  islands  {Les  Isles  de  Ste  -Marguerite)  were  erected 
into  a  seigniory  and  granted  to  an  officer  of  France,  lie  buiit  a  nia8.»<ive  stone  house 
on  Crane  Island,  and  was  afterwards  kept  there,  in  rigorous  captivity,  by  Madame 
de  Qrauville.  She  claimed  that  she  was  his  sister,  and  that  he  was  insane  ;  but  this 
report  was  doubted  by  the  people  of  the  S.  shore,  and  the  islind  was  r»;garded  with 
dread.    She  kept  him  in  close  durance  for  many  years,  until  at  Ust  he  died. 

Beyond  the  S.  shore  village  of  Caj)  St.  Ignace  (400  inhabitants)  the 
steamer  passes  St.  Thomas,  the  capital  of  Montmagny  County.  This  town 
has  1,650  inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  largo  local  trade.  The  College 
Montmagny  is  located  here,  and  there  is  also  a  convent  and  a  large  and 
conspicuous  church.  The  broad  white  band  of  a  cascade  is  seen  at  the 
foot  of  the  cove,  where  the  Riviere  du  Sud  falls  30  ft.  On  the  r.,  beyond 
St.  Thomas,  is  seen  a  cluster  of  picturesque  islets,  over  which  the  massive 
Cape  Tourmente  frowns. 


I 


r: 


m 


254     Route  67. 


GKOSSE  ISLE. 


"  At  length  they  spy  huge  Tourmente,  Bullen-browed, 

Bathe  liis  bald  forehead  in  a  passing  cloud  ;  t 

The  Titan  of  the  lofty  capes  that  gleam  | 

In  long  succession  down  the  mighty  stream  ;  j 

When,  lo  I  Orlejins  emerges  to  the  sight,  '    . 

And  woods  and  memlows  float  in  liiiuid  lifj^ht ;  >    ' 

Kude  Nature  dolTs  her  savage  mountain  dreso,  '  -'^  -     -r  •' 

And  all  her  sternness  melts  to  loveliness.  J 

On  either  hand  stretch  fields  of  richest  green, 
With  glittering  village  spires  and  groves  between, 
And  snow-white  cots  adorn  the  fertile  plain." 

OrOBSe  Isle  formerly  appertiiined  to  the  Ursuliiies,  and  is  2^  M.  long. 
On  its  graywiicke  ledges  is  tlie  great  Quarantine  of  Canada,  where  emi- 
grant-ships are  detained  until  thoroughly  inspected  and  purified.  The 
island  is  a  vast  tomb,  so  many  have  been  the  emigrants  who  have  reached 
these  shores  only  to  die,  poisoned  in  the  filthy  am^  crowded  ships,  poorly 
fed  and  rarely  ministered  imto.  The  Quarantine-station  is  occupied  by 
medical  and  police  forces,  and  is  under  a  rigid  code  of  rnles. 

The  next  town  is  Berthitr,  an  ancient  French  parish  of  400  inhabitants, 
W.  of  which  is  Bellechasse  Island,  composed  of  high,  steep,  and  bare  gray- 
wacke  rocks.  On  the  N.  are  Reaux  Island  (150  ft.  high)  and  Madame 
Island,  both  of  which  are  covered  with  trees.  St,  Vuliev  is  beyond  Belle- 
chasse, and  is  a  place  of  200  inhabitants,  near  which  large  de[)osits  of  bog 
iron-ore  have  been  found.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  (see  Route  71)  is  now 
approached,  on  the  r.,  and  over  it  is  seen  the  peak  of  Mt.  St.  Anne. 
Nearly  opposite  St.  John  (on  the  Orleans  shore)  is  St.  Michel,  a  lumber- 
working  town  of  700  inhabitants,  in  whose  spacious  church  are  some 
paintings  for  which  a  high  value  is  claimed:  St.  Clara,  by  Murillo(f)  ; 
St.  Jerome,  Boucher ;  die  Crucifixion,  Jiomanelli ;  the  Death  of  the  Vir- 
gin, Gouly ;  St.  Bruno,  Philippe  de  Champayne ;  the  Flagellation,  Chally. 
6  M.  beyond  St.  Michel  is  Beaumont,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  oppo- 
site Patrick's  Hole,  on  the  Orleans  shore.  The  settlements  now  grow 
thicker  on  either  shore,  and  in  about  6  M.  the  steamship  passes  the  W. 
end  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and  opens  the  grandest  **  view  on  the  route. 
On  the  r.  is  the  majestic  Montmorenci  Fall,  on  the  1.  the  rugged  heights 
of  Point  Levi  /md  St.  Joseph,  and  in  front  the  stately  cliffs  of  Quebec, 
crowned  with  batteries,  and  flowering  into  spires.  ; 

■-^  -  - 


■■?» 


t 

^> 

s 

0 

M.  long. 
lire  emi- 
d.  The 
reached 
,  poorly 
pied  by 

ibitants, 
re  gray- 
MadaiTie 
id  Belle- 
s  of  bog 
)  is  now 
t.  Anne. 
Inmber- 
ire  some 
nlfo{?)  ; 
the  Vir- 
,  Chally. 
ts,  oppo- 
)\v  grow 
IS  the  W. 
lie  route. 
I  heights 
Quebec, 


QUEBEC. 


^^i^j^M 


.  Catholic  Cathedral  . 

•  Anglican  „ 
.  Wesley  an  Church  .   . 

Presbyterian  Church 
.  St,  JohniCath.)  „  .  . 
.  St.  Matthew 

•  St.  Sauveur        „  .  . 
.  St.  Roch 
.  Notre  Dame  des 

Victoires 

.  Archbishop's  Palace 

.  Seminary 

.  Laval  University  .  . 
.  Hotel  Dieu  Convent  . 
.  Ursuline  „     . 

.  Gray  Sisters  „  . 
.  Congregational  „     . 

General  Hospital  .  . 
.  Marine  „  .  . 
,  Morrin  College .... 

Kent  Gate    

Court  House  

Crown  Lands  Dep.    . 

.  High  School 

,  Governor's  Garden   . 

Custom  House  .... 
.  Champlain  Market   . 

.  Jail 

.  Wolfe's  Monument  . 
.  American  Consulate 
.  St.  John's  Gate 
.  St.  Louis       „ 

Prescott        „ 

Hope  „ 

Palace  „ 


E.3. 
E.4. 
E.3. 
E.4. 
C.3. 
D.3. 
A.  2. 
C.2. 

F.4. 

E.3. 

E.3. 

F.3. 

E.3. 

E.4. 

D.3. 

C.2. 

B.2 

C.I. 

E.3. 

D.3. 

E.4. 

E.4. 

E.4. 

E.4. 

F.3. 

F.4. 

B.6. 

B.5. 

F.3. 

D.3. 

D  4. 

F.4. 

E  3. 

E.3. 


35.  St.  Louis  Hotel   .  .  .  E.4. 

36.  Stadxco'ia  ,,  .  .  £.3. 
37  Parlian-^  it  Building  0.4. 
38.  Post  Office E.3. 


tY: 


I'^l 


QUEBEC. 


E.3. 
E.4. 
E.3. 
E.4. 
C.3. 
D.3. 
A.  2. 
C.2. 

F.4. 


Catholic  Cathedral  . 
Anglican  „ 

Wesleyan  Chu  i,ft  .  . 
Presbyterian  Church 
St.  John  (Cath.)  „  .  . 
St.  Matthew 
St.  Sauveur  „  .  . 
St  Roch 
Notre  Dame  ties 

Victoires 

Archbishop's  Palace  E.3. 

Seminary E.3. 

Laval  University  .  .  F.3. 
Hotel  Dieu  Convent .  E.  3. 
Ursuline  „     .  E.  4. 

Cray  Sisters  „  .  D.  3. 
Congregational  „  .  C.  2. 
General  Hospital  .  .  B.2. 
Marine  „  .  ,  C.  1. 
Morrin  College .  .  .  .  E.3. 

Kent  Gate D.3. 

Court  House E.4. 

Crown  Lands  Dep.    .  £.  4. 

High  School E.4. 

Governor's  Garden  .  E.  4. 
Custom  House  .  .  ,  .  F.3. 
Champlain  Market  .  F.  4. 

Jail B.6. 

Wolfe's  Monument  .  B.6. 
American   Consulate  F.3. 


St.  John's  Gate 
St.  Louis       „ 
Prescott        „ 
Hope  „ 

Palace  ,, 


.  .  D.3. 

.  D  4. 

E.F.4. 

.  E.3. 

.  E.3. 


33.  St.  Louis  Hotel  .  .  .  E.4. 
36.  Stadacona  „  .  .  .  E.3. 
37  Parliament  Building  D.4. 
38.  Post  Office E.3. 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      255 


68.   Quebec. 

Arrival.  —  If  the  traveller  has  much  baggage,  it  is  best  to  take  a  carriage  or 
the  hotel  omnibus  tf)  the  Upper  Town.  The  cnUrlie  is  not  ad  ipted  for  carrying  lug- 
gage 

Hotels.  —  The  *  St.-Louis  Hotel,  near  the  Dufferin  Terrace,  accommodates  500 
guests,  at  §3.50  to  .'So  a  day.  The  Florence,  on  St.  John  Street,  outside  the  walls, 
charges  .f  2.50  to  .f4  a  day  The  Russell  House  is  at  St.  Ann  and  (larden  Streets. 
Ilenchey's  Hotel,  near  the  English  Cathedral;  the  Mountain-IFIU  House,  on 
Mountain-Hill  Street ;  and  Blanchard's  Hotel,  in  the  Lower  Town,  —  charge  from 
$1.60  to  $2  a  day. 

There  .-ire  sevt;ru.l  good  boarding-houses  in  the  Upper  Town,  among  which  are 
those  of  the  .Mi'^'^cs  Leonard,  3  St.  Louis  St.  ;  Mrs.  McOonell,  38  St.  Ldiu.x  St  ;  Mi--; 
Lane,  G5  St.  Aiine  St.;  Dennis  Ollares,  39  St.  Genevieve  St.  ;  Mrs.  Escaliere's,  20 
Mt.  Citrmel.  Comfortable  quarters  may  be  obtained  at  these  hou.ses  for  about  .fiO 
a  week. 

Carriages  in  every  variety  may  be  procured  at  the  livery-stables,  and  lai-ge 
numbers  of  tiieni  are  kept  at  the  st.inds  near  tlic  St.  Louis  Hotel,  in  front  of  tlie  Ca- 
thedral, and  beyond  St.  .lolin's  (J;ito.  The  carriages  in  the  Lower  Town  are  less  ele- 
gmt  and  much  less  expensive  than  those  within  tiie  walls.  Tlie  rate.-  Vor  excursions 
in  the  suburbs  in  suiiimor  are  from  i^'i  to  !?4  for  1-3  persons  (to  Montmorenci 
FhUs,  Lorette,  Cap  Rouge,  etc.).  During  tiie  autmnn  tiie  rates  are  reduced.  The 
caWc/i^-drivttrs  of  the  Lower  Town  usually  demand  .'#2  for  carrying  1-2, persons  to 
the  outer  suburban  resorts.  Tiie  caldr/ie  is  a  singular  and  usually  very  shabby- 
looking  vehicle,  perched  on  two  higli  wheels,  with  the  driver  sitting  on  a  narrow 
ledge  in  front  It  is  drawn  by  a  homely  but  hardy  little  horse,  and  is  usually  driven 
bv  a  French  (\aiiadian,  who  urges  the  horse  forward  by  the  sharp  dissyllabic  cry, 
"  Marrhp-finnc  !  "*  Two-hor.<!e  carriages,  fr.m  one  point  to  another  in  "the  city,  or 
per  hour,  for  one  or  two  persons,  r*'\  ;  for  three  or  four  persons,  SI. 50.  One-horse 
carriages,  50  cents,  or  75  cents  for  three  or  four  persons.  Calashes,  25  cents  a 
course,  75  cents  an  hour. 

Uurse-Cars  run  between  St.  Ours,  St.  Sauveur,  and  the  Champlain  Market, 
every  15  minutes,  traversing  St.  .Joseph,  St.  Paul,  and  St.  Peter  Sts.  The  fare  is  5c. 
Aiiother  line  traverses  IJuade,  Fabri(|ue,  a'ld  St.  .John  Sts.,  in  the  Upper  Town. 

lieacllnjf-Kooiiis.  —  Tiie  library  and  niuseimi  of  the  Quebec  Literary  and  \\\f^- 
torical  Society  (in  Morrin  College)  an'  courteously  o|)ened  to  the  vi<its  of  strangers. 
The  Library  of  Parliament  is  also  accessilile,  and  is  fitiely  arranged.  The  /iixfifiif 
Catiadirn  is  at  ?^i  Fabrique  "jt  ;  nnd  the  Y.  M.  ('.  Association  llall  is  a  splendid 
building,  erected  in  1879-SO,  on  St.  .lohn  St.,. just  outside  the  gat<!. 

Post-Oilice  at  the  corner  of  Buadc  .iml  Du  Fort  Sts.  According  to  the  new 
rules  of  the  Canadian  postal  service,  stamps  are  now  sold  at  the  post-offlces. 

The  most  attractive  shops  are  on  Fabrique  and  St  .John  Sts.,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  French  (Mathednil,  or  Rasilica. 

An  KlevJrtor  runs  from  Champlain  St.  (Lower  Town)  to  DufFerin  Terrace. 
Railways.  —  The  (rrand-Trunk  Railway  lias  its  terminal  stitiou  at  Point  Levi, 
317  M  from  Portland,  425  M.  from  Boston,  and  5S()  M.  from  New  York.  Pas«cnc:ers 
take  the  Grand-Trunk  ferry-steamer  near  the  Champliin  Market.  The  (^anadian 
Pacific  Railway  runs  along  the  N.  sh^re  from  Quebec  to  Montreal  and  Ottawa.  The 
Quebec  and  Lake  St.  .lohn  Railway  runs  to  Roberval,  1!*0  M.  distant  The  Quebec, 
MoDtmo.i'euci  A.'  Charlevoix  Railway  runs  to  St.  .\nne.  Stages  run  froiu  the  sta- 
tion of  St.  Ainbroise  to  Indi.in  Lorette,  and  Irom  \alcarticr  Station  to  Yah  artier. 
The  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  to  St.  .lohn,  N  B  ,  and  Halifax,  N.  S.  Tiie  line- 
bee  Central  Railway  runs  to  Sherbrooke. 

SteamnhipSt  — The  steamships  of  the  All.an  line  leave  Quebec  for  Ix)ugh  Foyle 
and  Liverpool  and  Glasgow  every  Thursday,  during  the  seiu«on  of  suuimer-navigation. 
The  Dominiou  Line  also  sends  bteamstiips  weekly  to  Liver|i(»ol.  The  vessels  of  tHo 
Quebec  S.  S.  Co.  leave  every  week  for  Father  Point,  170  M.  ;  Metis,  207 ;  Gasp', 
443;  Perc^,  472;  Summerside,  710  ;  Charlottetown,  7^4  ;  and  Pictou,  82!t.  The  St. 
Lawrence  S  N.  Co.  runs  to  Bay  St.  Paul,  55  .M.  ;  Eboulemetit.  W  ;  Murray  Bay, 
82;  Riviere  du  Loup,  112;  Tadousac,  1.34;  L'Anse  St.  .Jean.  100;  Hal  Hi"!  May, 
207  ;  Chicoutimi,  235.  Smaller  boats  run  to  Pointe  aux  'I'reiubles,  21 ,  Les  Ecu- 
reuila,  i57 ;  Platen  and  Portneuf,  30  ;  Deschambault,  45;  (jirondines,  48;  and  St. 
Anne  de  la  Perado,  68  ;  also  to  3t.  Lambert,  9  ;  and  St.  Jean,  17  ;  al.so,  during  the 
I  ilgrimage-season,  to  St.  Anne  de  Beaupr«^.  Ferry-boats  run  to  Point  licvi  sevural 
limes  aa  hour  ;  and  to  the  Isle  ot  Orleaus. 


r 


256      Rcmte  68. 


QUEBEC. 


Quebec,  "the  Gibraltar  of  America,"  and  the  third  city  in  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada,  is  situated  on  a  rocky  promontory  at  the  confluence  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles  Rivers,  180  M.  from  Montreal,  and  over 
400  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  has  about  63,000  inhabitants, 
witli  6  banks,  6  Masonic  lodges,  and  numerous  newspapers  in  the  French 
and  the  English  languages.  The  chief  Inisiness  of  the  city  is  in  the  hand- 
ling and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  which  $5-7,000,000  worth  is  sent 
away  annually.  There  an^  long  lines  of  coves  along  the  St.  Lawrence 
shore,  above  the  city,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the 
vast  rafts  which  come  down  from  the  northern  forests.  A  very  consid- 
erable export  trade  in  grain  and  cattle  is  done,  and  the  variDUs  supplies  of 
the  populous  counties  to  the  N.  and  E.  are  drawn  from  this  point.  Ship- 
building was  a  leading  industry,  and  many  vessels  of  the  largest  size 
have  been  launched  from  the  shipyards  on  the  St.  Charles;  but  the  business 
has  fallen  off  very  considerably  of  late.  Of  late  years  several  important 
manufactories  have  been  established  in  the  Lower  Town,  and  the  city  is 
expected  to  derive  great  benefit  from  the  convergence  here  of  several 
lines  of  railway,  connecting  with  the  transatlantic  steamships,  and  making 
it  a  depot  of  immigration  and  of  freighting.  The  introduction  of  an  abun- 
dant and  powerful  water  supply  from  Lake  St.  Charles  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  fire-brigade  and  alarm-tolegraph  have  preserved  the  city,  during 
late  years,  from  a  recurrence  of  the  terrible  fires  with  which  it  was  for- 
merly  scourged.    A  second  main  was  laid  in  1883. 

Quebec  is  built  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  bounded  by  the  two 
rivers  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  the  Upper  Town 
and  Lower  Town,  the  former  standing  on  an  enwalled  and  strongly  forti- 
fied blntT350  ft.  high,  while  the  latter  is  built  on  the  contracted  strands 
between  the  clitfs  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and 
often  very  steep,  and  the  houses  are  generally  built  of  cut  stone,  in  a  style 
of  severe  simplicity.  It  is  the  most  quaint,  picturesque,  and  mediaeval- 
looking  city  in  America,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  suburbs. 

"  Take  mountain  and  plain,  pinuous  river,  and  broad,  tranquil  watei-s,  ptately 
ship  and  tiny  boat,  gentle  hill  and  shadv  valley,  bold  headland  and  rich,  fruitful 
fields,  frowning  battlcniont  and  ohterful  villa,  glittering  dome  and  rural  spire,  tlow- 
ery  garden  and  sondtre  forest,  —  group  them  all  into  tlie  choicest  picture  of  ideal 
beauty  your  fancy  can  create,  arch  it  over  with  a  cloudless  sky,  light  it  up  with  a 
radiant  sun,  and  lest  the  sluen  should  l)e  too  dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  lighted  haze 
over  all,  to  soften  the  lines  and  perfect  the  repose,  —  3  ou  will  tlien  have  seen  Quebec 
on  this  September  morning."    (Eliot  Warhirton. ) 

"Quebec  recalls  Angouleme  to  my  mind:  in  the  upper  city,  stairways,  narrow 
streets,  ancient  houses  on  the  verge  of  the  clilT;  in  the  lower  city,  the  new  fortunes, 
commerce,  workmen  ;  —  in  both,  many  shops  and  nuich  activity  "     (M.J^and  ) 

**  The  scenic  beauty  of  Quebec  lias  been  the  theme  of  giMieral  eulogy.  The  majestic 
appearance  of  Ca|.K^  Diamond  and  the  fortifications,  —  the  cupolas  and  minarets,  like 
those  of  an  Eastern  city,  blazing  and  sparkling  in  the  sun, —  the  loveliness  of  the 
panorama,  —  the  noble  basin,  like  a  slu-et  of  )>nrest  silver,  in  which  might  ride  witli 
safety  a  hundred  sail  of  the  line,  —  the  gr.icet'ul  meandering  of  the  river  St.  Charles, 
—  the  nun\erouR  village  spires  on  either  side  of  the  St  Lawrence, —  the  fertile  fields 
dotted  with  innumerable  cottjiges,  the  aboiles  of  a  ricli  and  moral  peasantry, —  the 
distant  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  —  the  park-like  .scenery  of  Point  Ijevi,  —  the  beauteous 
Isle  of  Orleans,  —  and  more  distant  still ,  the  frowning  Cape  Tourniente,  and  the  lofty 


QUEBEC. 


Route  G8. 


range  of  purple  mountains  of  the  most  picturesque  forms  which  bound  the  prospect,N 
unite  to  form  a  coup  tVceil,  which,  without  exaggeration,  is  scarcely  to  be  surpassed 
in  any  p;irt  of  the  world.'     (Hawkins.) 

"  I  rubbed  my  eyes  to  be  sure  that  1  was  in  the  ninetcentli  century,  and  was  not 
entering  one  of  those  portals  whlclj  sometimes  adorn  the  frontispiece  of  old  black- 
letter  volumes.  I  tliought  it  would  be  a  good  place  to  read  Froissart's  Chronicles. 
It  was  such  a  reminiscence  of  the  Middle  Ages  jis  Scott's  novels. 

"  Too  much  has  not  Ix-en  sjiid  about  the  scenery  of  Quebec.  The  fortifications  of 
Cape  Diamond  are  omnipresent.  You  travel  10,  20,  >¥)  M  up  or  down  the  river's 
banks,  you  ramble  15  M  among  tlie  hills  on  either  side,  and  tiien,  when  you  liave 
long  since  forgotten  them,  perchance  slept  on  them  by  the  way,  at  a  turn  of  the 

ro.id  or  of  your  body,  there  they  are  still,  with  their  geometry  against  the  sky 

No  wonder  if  .Jaqucs  Cartier's  pilot  exclaimed  in  Norman-French,  i^ue  bed  ( '  What 
a  peak !  ')  when  he  saw  this  cape,  as  some  suppwe.  Every  modern  traveller  invol- 
untarily u.ses  a  similar  expression The  view  from  Ca[)e  Diamond  has  been 

compared  by  European  travellers  with  the  most  remarkable  views  of  a  similar  kind 
in  Europe,  such  as  from  I'klinburgh  Castle,  Gibntltir  Cintr.i,  and  others,  and  pre- 
ferred by  many.  A  main  peculiarity  in  this,  compareil  with  other  views  which  I 
have  beheld,  is  that  it  is  from  the  ramparts  of  a  fortified  tity,  and  not  from  a  soli- 

tary  and  majestic  river  cape  alone  that  tliis  view  is  obtained I  still  remembei 

the  harbor  far  beneath  me,  sparkling  like  silver  in  the  sun, —  the  answering  liead- 
lands  of  Point  Levi  on  the  S.  E  ,  —  the  frowning  (Japi^Tourniente  abruptly  bounding 
the  seaward  view  far  in  the  N  E. ,  —  the  villages  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg  on  the 
N.,  —  and  farther  \W.  the  distant  Val  Cartier,  sp.irkHng  with  white  cottiiges,  hardly 
removed  by  distance  througli  the  clear  air,  —  not  to  mention  a  few  bine  mountains 
along  the  horizon  in  that  direction.  Yon  look  out  from  the  ramparts  of  the  citadel 
beyond  the  frontiers  of  civilization.  Yonder  small  group  of  hills,  according  to  the 
guide-book,  forms  '  the  port  il  of  the  wilds  which  are  trodden  only  by  the  feet  of  the 
Indian  hunters  as  far  as  Hudson's  IJay.'  "     (Thoreau  ) 

"  There  is  no  city  in  America  more  famous  in  the  annals  of  history  than  Quebec, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Europe  more  picturesciuely  situated.  Whilst  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  reminds  one  of  the  unrivalled  views  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  airy  site 
of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  Innspruck  and  Edinburgh  Quebec  may  be  best 
de.scribed  by  supposing  that  an  ancii^nt  Norman  fortress  of  two  centuries  jigo  had 
been  encased  in  amber,  transported  by  magic  to  Canada,  and  placed  on  the  summit 
of  Cape  Diamond." 

"  Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  place.  A  mili- 
tary town,  conbiining  about  '.iOiOiW  inhabitants  ;  most  compactly  and  permanently 
built,  —  stone  its  sole  material ;  environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts,  by  walls 
and  gates,  and  defended  by  numerous  heavy  cannon  ;  .  .  .  .  founded  upon  a  rock, 
and  in  its  highest  parts  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country  ;  3  40O  miles  from 
the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent,  and  yet  displaying  Heets  of  foreign  mer- 
chantmen in  its  tine,  capacious  bay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle  of  a  crowded  sea- 
port; its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  winding  up  and  down  almost  mountainous 
declivities  ;  situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts  of  Euroi^e,  exhibiting  in  its 
environs  the  beauty  of  a  European  capital,  and  yet  in  winter  .smarting  with  the  cold 
of  Siberia ;  governed  by  a  people  of  different  language  and  habits  from  the  mass  of 
the  population,  opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving  that  population  without  taxes, 
and  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  privile^.,^,  civil  and  religious  ;  such  are  the  prominent 
features  which  strike  a  stnuiger  in  the  ( ity  of  Quebec.  A  .seat  of  ancient  Dondnion, 
—  now  hoary  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries,  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
French  empire  in  the  west,  —  lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and  of 
illustrious  commanders,  —  throned  on  a  rock,  and  defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance 
of  war!  Who  could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion!  Who  in  Canada  has 
not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the  water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec."  (Prop. 
SauMvN;  in  1820.) 

"  Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec.  A  fortress  and  a  com- 
mercial city  together,  built  upon  the  sinnn)it  of  a  rrxk  like  the  nest  of  an  ea|(le, 
while  her  vessels  are  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  tlie  ocean  ;  an  American  city 
inhabited  by  French  colonists,  governed  by  England,  and  garrisoned  by  Scotch 
regiments  ;  a  city  of  the  .Middle  Ages  by  most  of  its  ancient  institutions,  while  it  is 
subject  to  all  the  combinations  of  modern  constitutional  government ;  a  European 
city  by  its  civilization  and  its  habits  of  refinement,  and  still  close  by  the  remnants 
of  the  Indian  tribes  and  the  barren  mts.  of  the  North  ;  a  city  with  about  the  same 


^ 


y 


y' 

258     Routt  08. 


QUEBEC. 


latitude  aa  Paris,  while  ducctasively  combining  the  torrid  climate  of  Bouthem  regionn 
with  the  t-everities  of un  hyperborean  winter;  a  city  at  the  same  time  Catholic  and 
Protestant,  wht-rc  tlie  lal  ;<rs  of  our  (Frciiclj)  missions  arc  still  uninterrupted  along- 
side of  the  uinu-rtakinirs  o,"  lIic  ISible  Societ\,  and  where  tlie  .Jesuits,  driven  out  of 
our  own  country,  find  rcfiijr';  under  the  a'gis  of  Britisli  Puritanism."  (X.Marmikr's 
Letlrfs  siir  /' Atiien(/iip,  18<',.i.) 

"  Leaving  t\n>  citadel,  we  ar?  onct  more  in  the  Eurojx'an  Middle  Ages.  Gates  and 
posterns,  cranky  st«  ps  that  Ici;  1  up  to  lofty,  gabled  houses,  with  sharp  French  roofs 
of  burnished  tin,  like  those  of  L.iege  ;  prwessions  of  the  Host:  altars  dec  kid  with 
tiowers  ;  statues  of  tiie  Virgin  ;  sabots  ;  blouses  ;  and  th((  scarlet  of  the  lJriti>h  lines- 
man,—  all  tlieso  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  that  are  graced  with  many 
a  Cotentin  lace  cap,  and  all  within  40  miles  of  the  down-cast,  Yankee  !*tate  of  Maine. 

It  is  not  far  from  New  England  to  Old  France There  has  been  no  d\  ing  out 

of  the  race  among  ihe  French  Canadians.  They  number  twenty  times  the  thousands 
that  they  did  1(10  years  ag(..  The  American  soil  has  left  their  physical  tyjK>,  re- 
ligion, language,  and  UiwA  absolutely  untouch"d.  They  herd  together  in  their 
rambling  villages,  dance  tr  he  fiddle  r%'r  mass  on  Sundays,  —  as  gayly  as  on(  e  did 
their  Norman  sins,  —  and  p  un  the  fnn-de-lys  and  the  memory  of  Montcalm. 
More  French  tlian  the  FreiUii  aiv  the  Lower  Canada  habitaiis.  The  pulse-beat  of  the 
continent  finds  no  cciio  here."     (Siii  Charles  Dilke.) 

'•Curious  old  Quebec  I  of  all  the  cities  of  the  continent  of  America  the  most 
quaint!  It  is  a  j)eak  thickly  poiiulated  I  a  gigantic  rock,  escarped,  echeloned,  and 
at  the  siime  time  suioothed  oiY  to  hold  firmly  on  its  summit  the  houses  and  castles, 
although  a((  (tnling  to  the  ordinary  laws  of  natter  they  ought  to  fall  olf  like  a  bur- 
den placed  on  a  camel's  ba<  k  without  a  fastening.  Yet  the  (houses  and  castles  hold 
there  as  if  they  were  nailed  down.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  some  feet  of  land  have 
been  reclaimed  from  the  river,  and  that  is  for  the  streets  of  the  Lower  Town.  Que- 
bec is  a  dried  shred  of  the  Middle  Ages,  hung  high  up  near  the  North  Pole,  far  from 
the  beaten  paths  of  the  Eurov)ean  tourists,  ....  a  curiosity  without  parallel  on 
this  side  of  the  ocean.  We  traveled  each  street  as  we  would  have  turned  the  leaves 
of  a  book  of  engravings,  containinir  »  pew  painting  on  each  page The  local- 
ity ought  to  be  scrupulously  preserved  antique.  Let  modern  progress  be  carried 
elsewhere!  When  Quebec  lias  taken  the  pains  to  go  and  perch  hcr.self  away  up 
neai  Hudson's  liay,  it  would  be  cruel  and  unfitting  to  dare  to  harass  her  with  new 
ideas,  and  to  speak  of  doing  away  with  the  narrow  and  tortuous  streets  that  charm 
all  tmvellers,  in  order  to  seek  conformity  with  the  fantastic  ideas  of  comfort  in 
vogue  in  the  liith  century."     (Henry  Ward  Beecher.) 

"  On  I'a  dit,  Quebec  est  un  proniontoire,  c'est  avant  tout  une  forteresse  remarqua- 
ble.  La  citadelle  s'eleve  au-dessus  de  la  ville  et  mire  dans  les  eaux  du  lleuve  ses 
cr«^neaux  brants.  Le  voyageur  s"etoune,  apres  avoir  admiri'  les  bords  vcrdoyants  et 
tieuris  du  Saint-Laurent,  les  forets  aux  puissantes  ramures  pleines  de  raysteres  et 
d'ombre,  les  riantes  vallees  pleines  de  bruits  et  de  rayons,  de  rencontrer  tout  ik  coup 
cette  vilie  qui  senible  venir  d'Europe  et  qui  serait  moins  etrange  sur  les  bords  du 
Rhin  aux  dramatiques  Icgendes.  Mais  Qu.  bee  n'est  pas  une  ville  ou  W  tranger  vienne 
Be  distraire  et  chercher  d'oubli  un  the&tre  .V  grands  luxes,  a  grands  spectacles  .... 
O'est  peut-etre  la  seule  ville  du  monde  ou  les  gens  aient  droit  de  se  plaindre  et  ou 
ils  ne  se  plaignent  pas.  .Fai  icrit  que  Qut  bee  est  une  forteresse  reniarquable ; 
elle  ( leve  son  front  superbe  et  se  cambre  avec  fiettr  dans  sa  robe  de  pierre.  Elle  a 
conserv  •  un  air  des  temps  chevaleresqnes,  elle  a  soutenu  des  si  ges,  elle  a  re<;u  son 
bapteme  du  feu.  En  longeant  ces  vieux  murs,  en  admirant  cette  forteresse  i  levie 
comme  un  nid  d'aigie  sur  un  roc  sourciileux,  on  se  croirait  dans  une  ville  du  moyen 
&ge,  au  temps  des  factions  et  des  guerres  civiles,  une  de  ces  villes  accoutumces  aux 
bruits  des  amies,  aux  fanfares  et  aux  liymnes  guerriers,  mais  tout  est  silencieux  dans 
la  nuit  sereine,  et  vous  n'entendez  meme  pas  le  pace  c  'dencc  d'une  sentinelle. 
Dans  cette  ville  et  aux  aleutours,  que  d'l  v>  nenients  ont  etc  accompli !  Quelle  lutte 
pleine  de  poisie  h(  roique !  Que  de  vicissitudes !  et  quel  courage  !  En  quelque  lieu 
que  vous  alliez,  a  la  basse-ville,  sur  le  chemin  Saint-Louis  ou  Sainte-Foye,  sur  les 
rives  de  la  riviere  Saint-Charles,  tout  respire  un  parfum  historique,  tout  parle  a  vos 
yeux,  tout  a  une  voix  qui  exprime  quelque  chose  de  grand  et  de  triste,  et  les  pierree 
meuics  scut  autour  de  vous  comme  lea  fautomes  qui  reticchissent  le  passe." 


re- 


Que- 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      259 


The  Duffeiin  Terrace  is  on  the  river  ward  edge  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
begins  on  the  buttresses  and  platform  formerly  occupied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louis,  which  was  built  by  Chaniplain  in  1G20,  and  extends  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  base  of  the  citadel,  making  it  the  longest  prome- 
nade of  the  sort  in  the  world.  It  was  opened  on  June  10,  i879,  by  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  and  the  Princess  Louise,  in  the  presence  of  10,000  people. 
The  old  Chateau  was  a  massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  long,  used  for  a 
fortress,  prison,  and  governor's  palace,  and  it  stood  until  18'Jl,  when  it  was 
ruined  b}'  fire.  The  terrace  is  182  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a 
*  view  of  surpassing  beauty.  Lnmediately  below  are  the  sinuous  streets 
of  the  Lower  Town,  with  its  wharves  projecting  into  the  stream.  On  one 
side  are  the  lofty  fortified  bluffs  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St. 
Charles  River  winds  away  down  its  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of 
Beauport  stretch  off  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  while  be- 
yond are  seen  the  farms  of  L'Ange  Gardien,  extending  towards  the 
heights  of  St.  Fereol.  Vessels  of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the 
broad  basin  and  the  river,  and  the  rich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in 
mid-stream  below.  Beyond,  and  over  all,  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Lau- 
rentian  range,  with  Cape  Tourmente  towering  over  the  river.  The  Terrace 
is  the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  an  attractive  scene 
in  the  late  afternoon  or  on  pleasant  Sundays. 

"  There  is  not  in  the  world  a  nobler  outlook  tlian  that  from  the  Tcrnice  at  Que- 
bec. You  stand  upon  a  rock  overhanging  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  the 
guard-ships'  masts.  AcrtJ  upon  acre  of  timbur  comes  Hoating  do.vn  th-;  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadian  boat-sont;s  just  reaching  you  upon  tlio  heights;  and 
beneath  you  are  fleets  of  great  ships,  English,  German,  French,  and  Dutch,  embark- 
ing the  timber  from  the  Hoating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  nowhere  to  be 
seen."    (Sir  Ciiarl'.:s  Dilke.) 

"  On  a  summer  evening,  when  the  Terrace  is  covered  with  loungers,  and  when 
Point  Levi  is  sprinkled  with  lights  and  the  Losver  Town  has  illuminated  its  narrow 
streets  and  its  long  dormer-windo.vs,  while  the  lively  murmur  of  business  is  ascend- 
ing and  the  eye  cau  discern  the  great  shadows  of  the  ships  beating  into  port,  tiie 
scene  is  one  of  marvellous  animation.  It  is  then,  above  nil,  that  one  is  struck  with 
the  resemblance  between  Quebec  and  the  European  cities  ;  it  might  be  called  a  city 
of  France  or  Italy  transplanted ;  the  physiognomy  is  the  same,  and  daylight  is 
needed  to  mark  the  alteration  of  features  produced  by  the  passage  to  America." 

"At  a  later  era,  when,  under  the  protection  of  the  French  kings,  the  Provinces 
had  acfiuired  the  rudiments  of  military  strength  and  power,  the  Castle  of  St  Louis 
was  remarkable  as  having  been  the  site  whence  the  French  governors  exercised  an 
immense  sovereignty,  extending  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  along  the  shores  of 
that  noble  river,  its  magnificent  lakes,  and  down  the  coui*se  of  the  Mississippi  to  its 
outlet  below  New  Orleans.  The  banner  which  first  streamed  from  the  battlements 
of  Quebec  was  displayed  from  a  chain  of  forts  which  protected  the  settlements 
throughout  this  vast  extent  of  country,  keeping  the  English  (colonies  in  constant 
alarm,  and  securing  the  fidelity  of  the  Indian  nations.  During  this  period  the  coun- 
cil chamber  of  the  castle  was  the  scene  of  many  a  mi  Inight  vigil ,  many  a  long  delib- 
eration and  deep-lai(!  nr"ject,  to  free  the  continent  from  the  intrusion  "*"  the  ancient 
rival  of  France,  and  a;  ort  throughout  the  supremacy  of  the  Gallic  lily  At  another 
period,  subsequent  to  the  surrender  of  QueVj«'c  to  the  British  arms,  and  until  the 
recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States,  the  extent  of  empire  of  which 
the  Castle  of  Quebec  was  the  principal  seat  compreheuded  the  whole  American  COQ- 
tlnent  north  of  Mexico."    (Hawkins.) 


I 


:;: 


h\ 


260      R<Mte  68. 


QUEBEC. 


The  Anglioan  Cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Recollet  Con- 
vent and  gardens,  and  is  a  plain  and  massive  build'ng,  135  ft.  long,  with 
a  spire  152  ft.  high.  It  was  built  by  the  British  government  in  U03-4, 
and  received  its  superb  communion-service,  altar-cloths,  and  books  as  a 
present  from  King  George  111.  There  is  a  chime  of  8  bells  in  the  tower, 
which  makes  pleasant  music  on  Sundays;  and  the  windows  are  of  rich 
stained  glass.  The  interior  is  plain  and  the  roof  is  supported  on  Corinthian 
pillars  and  pilasters,  while  over  t^e  chancel  hang  the  old  Crimean  colors 
of  the  69th  Regiment  of  the  Prltish  army.  Under  the  altar  lie  the  remains 
of  Charles  Lennox,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Lenr.f^x,  and  Aubigny,  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  Canada,  who  died  of  hydrophobia  in  1819.  There  are 
numerous  mural  monuments  in  the  cathedral,  and  in  the  chancel  are  the 
memorials  to  the  early  Anglican  Bishops  of  Quebec,  Jacob  Mountain  and 
Charles  James  Stewart.  The  former  consists  of  a  bust  of  the  Bishop, 
alongside  of  which  is  a  statue  of  Religion,  both  in  relief,  in  white  marble, 
on  a  background  of  black  marble. 

Dr.  Mountain  was  in  rhe  presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a 
doubt  as  to  whom  he  should  appoint  as  bishop  of  the  new  See  of  Quebec. 
Said  the  doctor,  "  If  your  Majesty  had  faith,  there  would  be  no  difficulty." 
"How  soV"  said  the  king.  Mountain  answered,  "If  you  had  faith,  you 
would  say  to  this  Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would 
be  done."    It  was. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Diifferin  Terrace  is  the  prettv  little  Place 
d\irnus,  where,  on  the  site  of  the  old  court-house  (burnt  in  1871),  a  hand- 
some new  court-house  was  built,  in  1885.  Beyond  the  court-house  (on  St. 
Louis  St.)  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  arc  the  old-time  structures 
of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel  and  the  ancient  building,  known  as 

Kent  House,  from  the  fact  that  Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent  (father 
of  Queen  Victoria),  dvolt  here  during  his  long  sojourn  at  Quebec.  Oppo- 
site the  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  quaint  little  building  (now  used  as  a  barber- 
shop), in  which  Montcalm  held  his  last  council  of  war.  St.  Louis  St.  runs 
out  through  the  ramparts,  traversing  a  quiet  and  solidly  built  quarter,  and 
is  prolonged  beyond  the  walls  }is  fhe  Grand  All^e,  passing  the  magnifi- 
cent new  Parliament  Buildings. 

The  *  Market  Square  is  near  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town.  The  Jesuits* 
College  has  been  toni  dowr,  and  its  place  remains  drearily  empty. 

Markets  are  not  now  held  on  the  Square,  but  outside  St.  John's  Gate. 

"  A  ft'W  steps  had  brought  th«m  to  the  market-square  in  front  of  the  cathedral, 
where  a  little  belated  trulfic  still  lingered  in  the  few  old  peasant- women  hovering 
over  baskets  of  .ucli  fruits  and  vegetables  as  had  long  been  out  of  season  in  tlie 
i^tates,  and  the  housekeepers  and  wTvants  cheapening  these  wares.  A  sentry  n.oved 
mechanically  up  and  down  before  the  high  portal  of  the  .Jesuit  Barracks,  over  the 
arch  of  which  were  still  the  letters  1.  II  S.  carved  long  ago  on  the  keystone ;  and 
the  ancient  edifice  itself,  with  its  yellow  stucco  front  and  its  grated  windows,  had 
every  right  to  W.  a  monastery  turned  barracks  in  France  or  Italy.  A  row  of  quaint 
stone  houses  —  inns  and  shops  —  formed  the  upper  side  of  the  square,  while  the 
moderu  buildings  of  the  Rue  Fabrique  on  the  lower  side  might  serve  yery  well  for 


QUEBEC. 


noute  68.      261 


that  show  of  improvement  which  deepens  the  nentimen^  of  the  neighborini;  antiquity 
and  decHy  in  Latin  towns.  Aa  for  tlie  cathedral,  waich  faced  the  convent  from 
across  tlie  square,  it  was  as  cold  and  torpid  a  bit  of  Ilenaissance  as  could  be  found 
in  Rome  itself.  A  red-coated  soldier  or  two  passed  throujch  the  square  :  three  or 
four  neat  little  French  policemen  lounged  about  in  blue  uniforms  and  Haring 
havelocks;  some  walnut-faced,  blue-eyed  old  citizens  and  peiifiaiits  sat  upon  the 
thresholds  of  the  row  of  old  houses  and  gazed  dreandly  through  the  smoke  of  their 
pipes  at  tlie  slight  stir  and  glitter  of  shopping  about  the  fine  stores  of  tiie  Rue 
Fabrique.  An  air  of  serene  disoccupation  pt-rvaded  the  place,  with  which  the 
drivers  of  the  long  rows  of  calashes  and  carriages  in  front  of  the  cathedral  did  not 
discord.  Whenever  a  stniy  American  wandered  into  the  square,  there  was  a  wild 
llight  of  these  drivers  towards  him,  and  hif<  person  was  lost  to  sight  amidst  their 
pantomime.  They  did  not  try  to  underbid  each  other,  and  they  were  j»erfectly  good- 
humored.  As  soon  as  he  had  made  liis  choic<!,  the  rejected  multitude  returned  to 
their  places  on  the  curbstone,  pursuing  the  successful  aspirant  with  inscrutable 
jokes  as  he  drove  off,  while  the  horses  wvnt  on  munching  the  contents  of  their 
leathern  head-bags,  and  tossing  them  into  the  air  to  shake  down  the  lurking  grains 
of  corn."    (HowELLs's  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

The  magnificent  new  Parliament  and  Departmental  Buildings  are  on 

the  Grande  Alk'e,  on  high  ground  outside  the  St.  Louis  Gate,  and  were  begun 
in  1878.  The  halLs  of  the  local  Parliament  were  begun  in  1882.  The 
buildings  are  of  gray  stone,  very  large  and  massive,  and  present  an  impos- 
ing appearance  when  seen  from  the  ramparts,  or  from  the  distant  valley 
villages.  It  was  at  one  time  intended  to  have  built  the  new  Parliament 
House  on  the  site  of  the  Jesuits'  College,  a  vast  quadrangular  pile,  22-1  by 
2'»0  ft.  in  area,  founded  in  1G46,  and  demolished  in  1878,  after  a  long  period 
of  desertion  and  dilapidation. 

The  Jesuits'  College  was  founded  in  1637,  one  year  before  Harvard  College, 
and  performed  a  noble  work  in  its  day.  It  w,as  suspended  in  1759  l>y  Gen. 
Murray,  who  quartered  his  troops  here,  and  in  1809  tlie  property  reverted  to  the 
crown,  on  the  death  of  the  last  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  were  used 
as  barracks  until  the  British  armies  evacuated  Canada  "  From  this  seat  of  piety 
and  learning  issued  those  dauntless  missionaries,  who  made  the  Gospel  known 
over  a  space  of  600  leagues,  and  pre:iched  the  Christian  faith  from  the  St.  I^w. 
rence  to  the  Mississippi.  In  this  pious  work  many  suffered  death  in  the  most 
cruel  form;  all  underwent  danger  and  privation  for  a  serie.-i  of  >ears,  with  a  con- 
stancy and  patience  that  must  always  command  the  wonder  of  the  historian  and 
the  admiration  of  posterity." 

The  *  Basilica  of  Quebec  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Market  Square,  and 
was  known  as  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  until  1874,  when  it  was 
elevated  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  to  the  rank  of  a  basilica.  It  was  founded  in 
1666  by  Bishop  Laval,  and  was  destroyed  by  the  bombardment  from 
Wolfe's  batteries  in  1759.  The  present  building  dates  from  the  era  of  the 
Conquest,  and  its  exterior  is  quaint,  irregular,  and  homely.  From  its 
towers  the  Angelus  bells  sound  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  6  in  the 
evening.  The  interior  is  heavy,  but  not  unpleasing,  and  accommodates 
4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well  adorned,  and  there  are  several 
chapels  in  the  aisles.  The  most  notable  pictures  in  the  Basilica  are,  **the 
Crucifixion,  by  Fan  Dyck  ("  the  Christ  of  tlie  Cathedral";  the  finest  paint- 
ing in  Canada),  on  the  first  pillar  1.  of  the  altar;  the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul, 
Carlo  Maratti  ;  the  Annunciation,  Restout ;  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  Halli  ; 
the  Pentecost,  Vignon ;  Miracles  of  St.  Anne,  Plamondon ;  Angels  waiting 


If 


2G2      Route  68, 


QUEBEC. 


on  Christ,  Restout  (in  tlio  choir);  tho  Nativity,  copy  from  Annibale  Ca- 
racct ;  Holy  Fiiinily,  /ildnclinnl. 

Tho  Hnsilini  (MTiipicH  tJn'  sito  of  the  niirifnt  cliurcli  of  Notre  Djumo  <l««  la  Ritou- 
vraiioo,  liiiilt  in  ltw{i}  li.v  ("liinniiljiip,  in  mcinorv  of  tin'  n'covrr.v  of  ('tinudii  by  France. 
Within  its  walls  arc  liurifd  HislKips  liav.il  and  IMcssis;  Chaniplain,  the  ln-roic  «»x- 
filorcr,  fonndcr  and  fu-st  (iovtrnor  of  Qnclitc;  and  the  <'ount  de  Ki'ontcnac'.  tho 
flerv  and  cliivalric  (iovernor  of  Canada  from  I'lSS  to  It'/JS.  Alter  his  death  his 
heart  was  enclosed  in  a  leaden  casket  and  sent  to  his  witlow,  in  France,  hut  the 
proud  countt'ss  refused  to  receive  it,  saying  that  she  would  not  liave  a  dead  heart, 
u-»««"h,  while  livinti,  had  not  been  hers.  The  nol)le  lady  ("  the  marvellously  beautiful 
;«  de  la  (Jmn^je-TrianiMi,  s'manied  The  Divine  ")  wjis  the  friend  of  M.Hhuiie  ile 

./Utponsier,  and  w  is  alie'tafe  1  from  Fronfenai-  on  account  of  his  luvc'-ulfair  with 
the  brilliant  Versaill''-<\  >'i  '  ">  ••  de  Monfes|)an 

Most  of  the  valuable  paintinjjs  in  the  Ilasilioa,  and  elsewhere  in  CaiuKhi,  were 
bouu;ht  in  France  at  the  epoch  of  the  devolution  of  1793,  when  the  churches  and 
convents  had  lu'cn  pillaged  of  their  treasures  of  art.  Many  of  thcui  were  purchased 
from  their  captora,  and  scut  to  the  secure  shores  of  New  France. 

Ijiiik  oi'  ilie  Ilasilica,  on  Port  Dauphin  St.,  is  the  extensive  |i;ilaie  of 
the  Areiibisjjop,  surrounded  by  (piiet  gardens.  To  tl>c  K.  is  the  Cirand 
IJ.iticry ;  and  also  the  site  of  the  old  Parliament  House. 

The  *  Seminary  of  Quebec  adjoins  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.,  and  covers 
several  acres  with  its  piles  of  (piaitit  and  ramblin<:;  l>nildinp:s  and  qniet 
and  sequestered  gardens.  It  is  divided  into  Le  Gvttnd  Scininnire  and  Le 
Pftit  Semmnirc,  tho  former  l)ein<];  devoted  to  Homan-('atholic  theoloj^y  and 
the  edncation  of  ])riests.  The  Minor  Seminary  is  for  the  stndy  of  litera- 
ture and  science  (lor  boys),  and  the  course  extends  over  nine  years. 
Boarders  pay  $150  a  year,  exclusive  of  washing,  music,  and  draw- 
ing. The  students  may  be  recognized  in  the  streets  by  their  peculiar 
uniform.  The  quadrargle,  with  its  old  and  irregular  buildings;  the  .spot- 
less neatness  of  the  grounds;  the  massive  walls  and  picturesquely  outlined 
groupings,  will  claim  the  interest  of  the  visitor. 

*'  No  such  buildinpc  could  be  Fcen  anywhere  save  in  Quebec,  or  in  sonic  ancient 
provincial  town  in  Normandy.  You  ask  for  one  of  the  gentlemen  (priest.'^),  and  you 
are  introduced  to  his  modest  apartment,  where  uiu  find  him  in  his  soutane,  with  all 
the  polisli,  learning,  and  bonkonwiie  of  the  nineteenth  century."  Visitors  are  con- 
ducted over  the  building  in  a  courteous  manner. 

1  lie  ancient  Seminary  Chapel,  with  its  precious  .paintings  by  Philippe 

de  Champagne,  Vanloo,  and  otiier  ni asters,  was  Imnied  in  1888. 

The  Seminary  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  16(53  by  M  de  Laval,  who  endowed  it  with 
all  his  great  wealtli.  The  first  buildings  were  eix'cted  in  l(j(i(i,  and  the  prcent  Semi- 
nary i.s  compo.^ed  of  edifices  constructed  at  difTerent  dates  since  that  time.  In  1866 
a  large  part  of  the  quadrangle  was  burnt,  but  it  has  since  been  restored.  In  1704 
there  were  04  teachers  and  students  ;  in  1810  there  were  110  ;  and  there  are  now  over 
401)  (exclusive  of  tlie  University  students).  "  When  we  awake  its  departed  shades, 
they  rise  upon  us  from  their  gmves,  in  strange  romantic  guise.  Men  steeped  in 
antique  learning,  pale  with  the  close  breath  of  the  cloister,  here  spent  the  noon  and 
evening  of  their  lives,  ruled  savage  hordes  with  a  mild  paternal  sway,  and  .«^tood 
serene  before  the  direst  shapes  of\Jeath.  Men  of  courtly  natures,  heirs  to  the  polish 
of  a  far-reaching  ancestry,  here  with  their  dauntless  hardihood  put  to  shame  the 
boldest  sons  of  toil."' 

The  new  Seminary  Chapel  has  several  interesting  and  valuable  old  paiutiog^ 
including  au  Ascension,  by  I'hiiippe  de  Champagne. 


QUEBEC. 


Route  as.     2G3 


The  *  Laval  University  \^  hetwccu  tho  Scminiin'^nnlcns  mid  tlio  nim- 
])nrts,  Mild  iiiiiy  l)o  reaclicd  from  St.  Fainillci  St  Tlu'  iiiniii  Imildinj;  is  2H0  f>. 
loiijjtind  5  stories  lii<rli,  is  l)iiilt<)f  cut  stono,  iitid  cost  $22r>,()0().  The  roofisa 
fliit  siinded  plattonn,  securely  enniiicd,  uIk  re  the  students  proitietmih!  and 
enjoy  th(^  ^i  and  *  view  of  tliC!  city,  the  river,  and  th(!  Laurentian  Mts.  Vis- 
itors Hre  achnitted  to  the  coUections  of  the  I'liiversity  on  application  to  tho 
janitor.  The  reception-rooms  contain  the  crreat  picture!  oCthe  Madonna  of 
QiKihec,  a  portrait  of  I'ius  IX.,l»y /'*/.sv/«aA'««,  andother  i)aintin<<s.  'I'he  largo 
hall  of  convocation  has  seats  for  2,000,  with  galleries  for  ladies.  Tlu^  chem- 
ical laboratory  is  a  lire-pro  f  clianiher,  uiodeiled  after  that  of  King's  Col- 
lege, London;  and  the  dissecting-room  is  spacious  nnd  well  arranged.  The 
♦mineral  museum  was  jirepared  hy  the  late  Ahlx^  Haiiy,  an  eminent 
scientist,  and  contains  specimens  of  the  stones,  ores,  and  minerals  of 
Canada,  with  a  rare  and  valuat)le  collection  of  crystals.  It  fills  a  long 
series  of  apartments,  from  whiidi  the  visitor  is  ushere«l  into  the  ethnologi- 
cal and  zoiilogical  cabinets.  Here  are  a  gn^at  number  of  linlian  remains, 
implements,  and  weapons,  and  other  Huron  antiquities;  with  prepared 
specimens  of  Canadian  animals  and  fish.  The  Library  contains  90,000 
volumes  (iibout  half  of  which  are  French),  arranged  in  two  spacious  halls, 
from  whose  windows  delightful  views  are  obtained.  The  *  Pictui'e-Gal- 
lery  has  lately  been  opened  to  the  public,  and  is  the  richest  in  Canada. 
The  works  are  mostly  copies  from  the  old  masters,  though  there  are  sev- 
eral undoubted  originals. 

The  visitor  should  also  see  the  brilliant 
collection  of  Canadian  birds;  and  the  costly  philosophical  and  medical 
apparatus,  imported  from  Paris.  The  extensive  dormitories  occupy  sub- 
strtutial  stone  buildings  near  the  University,  over  the  gardens. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663  by  Francois  de  Montmonmci  Laval,  fir^t  Bishop 
of  Quebec,  and  has  been  the  central  power  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  this  Province 
for  over  two  centuries.  The  Laval  University  was  founded  in  1852,  and  has  had  the 
privile{i;es  of  a  Catholic  University  accorded  to  it  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  The  procoHses 
of  study  are  modelled  on  those  of  the  University  of  Louvain.  The  department  of 
arts  has  14  professors,  the  law  has  6,  divinity  has  6,  and  medicine  has  8.  There  are 
also  24  professors  in  the  Minor  Seminary, 

"  Quebec  is  a  miirvellous  old  town,  and  its  jrlory  is  cjihanced  by  the  Rlanior  of  the 
Roman  purple.  Nothing  could  well  be  more  tittin^  than  be-stowiiip  a  cardiiiiil  upon 
this  mother  of  churches,  -  the  mdyna  ptirtus  of  nearly  lifty  modern  dioct  ses 
Wlien  Lival  de  Montmorency  stood  on  the  altar  steps  of  his  ba.-^ilica,  he  could  wave 
his  crozier  over  half  a  continent,  from  the  strand  of  Miquelon  to  the  sprin};  i  f 
Itasca;  from  the  gulf  of  the  6t.  Lawrence  to  where  the  rosy  sea-shells  murmur  in 
the  Bay  of  Pascagoula." 


VII 


i'l 


I  ii- 


I 


IH 


The  old  Parliament  Building  stood  near  Laval  University.    It  was 
burned  in  1883. 


I 


264      Route  OS. 


QnERRC. 


('*  I  mil  n  dop  pnnwine  n  bono. 
VV|\ilo  I  gmiw  I  tiikc  iii.v  roposo. 
Thi'  liiiu-  will  «'r>iiH'.  tli()iigli  not  yot, 
%Vlu>n  1  will  l)iti>  Itini  who  now  biU-s  me.") 


yfountn'ni-IIW  St.  dosconris  by  tlic  ])h\co  of  tlio  Pn>srott  Gnto,  to  the 
Lower  'I'own,  wiiidiupdown  flic  slope  of  the  <  lilV.  On  tlie  r.,  about  ^  of 
the  wny  down,  are  the  ♦  Champlain  Steps,  or  Cote  hi  Mont.Mjnie,  a  steep, 
crowded,  and  pictures(jue  stairway  lea<lhif!;  down  to  Notre  Dame  (h's 
Victoires  (see  pa^ro  271).  Near  tlie  foot  of  the  steps  is  a  jiiatinp,  over  tho 
phiec  where  tlie  remains  of  Champhiin  wore  reeenfly  found,  in  the  vault 
of  nn  ancient  chapel.  The  Cote  la  Monta^nie  has  reminded  one  author 
of  Naples  and  Trieste,  another  of  Venice  and  Trieste,  and  another  of 
Malta. 

The  Post-Office  is  a  handsome  stone  building  at  the  corner  of  Hiiade  and 

Du  Fort  S'8.     lu  its  front  wall  is  a  (igure  of  a  dog,  curved  in  the  stone  and 

gilded,  under  which  is  the  iuscriptiuu  :  — 

"  Je  BuiB  im  chlon  qui  ronpe  Ton  ; 
En  Ic  rongcnnt  ie  pr«'n«l  nion  rrpos. 
Vn  tonips  vionnm  c^ni  nVnt  put  vpntj 
Que  jc  inordrais  qui  in 'aura  niordu.'' 

This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Bigot  by  M.  Phili'oert,  who  had 
suffered  wrong  from  him,  but  soon  after  the  carved  stone  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Philil  crt's  house,  that  gentleman  was  assassinated  by  an 
officer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  Mast  Indian 
army,  but  was  pursued  by  I'hilibert's  brother,  and  was  killed,  at  I'ondi- 
cherrv,  after  a  severe  conflict. 

The  Post-Offlco  orcupios  tho  sito  of  tho  Grand  Plaro  of  tho  early  Fronoh  town,  on 
which  onoanipod  tho  Huron  tribe,  sholterod  by  tho  fort  from  tlio  attacks  of  tlio  piti- 
less Iro4iuois.  Hero  afterwards  lived  tho  Ixviutiful  Miss  Proiitioo,  with  whom  Nelson 
fell  in  love,  so  that  ho  had  to  be  forced  on  board  of  his  ship  to  got  him  away.  "  How 
many  chanpos  would  have  ensued  on  the  map  of  Kuro])e  I  how  many  new  horizons  in 
history,  if  Nelson  had  deserted  the  naval  service  of  his  country  in  17P2  !  Without 
doubt,  Napoleon  would  have  given  law  to  the  ontiix'  world.  His  supremacy  on  the 
sea  would  have  consolidated  his  rule  over  the  European  continent ;  and  that  because 
an  amorous  young  naval  officer  was  seized  by  a  passion  for  a  bewitching  Canadian 
girl  I  ''  Near  this  place  the  Duke  of  Clarence, "then  a  subaltern  of  the  fleet,  but 
afterwards  King  William  IV.  of  England,  followed  a  young  lady  home  in  an  un- 
seemly manner,  and  was  caught  by  her  father  and  very  soundly  horsewhipped. 

The  *  Ursuline  Convent  is  entered  from  Garden  St.,  and  is  a  spacious 
pile  of  buildings,  commenced  in  1686,  and  covering  7  acres  with  its  gardens 
and  offices.  There  are  40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and 
also  to  working  in  embroidery,  painting,  and  fancy  articles.  The  parlors 
and  chapel  may  be  visited  by  permission  of  the  chaplain  (whose  office  is 
adjacent);  and  in  the  latter  are  some  valuable  paintings:  *  Christ  at  the 
Pharisee's  House,  by  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  Saints  Nonus  and  Pelagius, 
Prudhomme ;  the  Saviour  Preaching,  P.  de  Champagne ;  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fish,  Le  Dieu  de  Jouvenet ;   Captives  at  Algiers,  Restout ;  St. 


St. 


QUEBEC. 


RtAile  €8.      266 


Pctor,  Spaimh  School;  iiixl  sovoniloflmrs.  In  tlio  HhrinnH  aru  rt'lu's  ofSt. 
(/IciiKMit  Miirtyr,  mill  otluT  saints  IVuin  tin;  Hoiniiti  cutiicotiibs.  Witlr'n  a 
pnivci  ni:i<lo  hyii  shell  wliicli  l»iir>t  ii'  tli  s  cliiipcl  tlurin^  tln'  homliMrilmcnt 
(if  I7.')U  in  l»Mri<'i|  *Mli<'  llij^li  iiiid  Mi;ility  Lord,  l.ouis  .loscpli,  Miinnii-*  of 
Montcalm,"  iiiid  over  his  nMiiuins  is  the  inscription,  "  Ilonncnr  ii  Mont- 
calm! Lc  <l(\stin  en  lui  dt^iohant  du  la  victoiro  I'a  lY'compcnsi'  par  unu 
inort  gloricu.Hc."    Montcalm's  skiill  is  carefnlly  prost3rved  under  glass. 


Tho  flrst  SuiM«ri<)r  of  thf  llrsulhi*' Cofivont  waH  Mothitr  Marin  do  PTiirarnntion, 
who  was  "  n'Von'fl  as  tlu'  St.  Teresa  of  her  time."  Slie  inastereil  the  Huron  and 
AlKonipiin  laiigiiaj^es,  and  her  lefU-rs  to  Frnnee  fonn  one  of  Mi<>  most  valualtle  rvr- 
ords  of  the  early  days  of  Canada.  The  convent  was  foui  t  d  in  h'Ai'J,  wh«'ii  tlie  first 
aldtesN  landed  in  tinel)ee  amid  the  salutes  «if  tlie  castle- i.itteries  ;  and  tlie  s|it!eial 
worlt  of  the  lunis  was  that  of  ediualiin;  the  Indian  );;iris.  Tlie  rouvcnt  wan  i)nrnt 
down  ill  l()r)(), and  a^aiii  hi  1  iH'i,  when  tlie  IJrsiilines  were  sheltered  \>y  the  llf^pital- 
ieres.  T1h>  Archbishop  ha-t  re<-ently  orden'd  that  tlie  term  of  profeHsion  sliull  be  for 
seven  >'earM,  inutead  of  for  life. 


Morrin  College  occufiies  a  massive  stone  Imildinj^  nt  the  corner  of 
St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  St.s.,  and  is  the  only  non-Kpiscopal  Protestant  col- 
lef!;e  in  the  Province.  It  was  foiunled  hy  Dr.  Morrin,  and  has  6  profe'ssors, 
hut  has  had  hut  little  success  as  an  educational  institution.  Tho  huild- 
lug  was  enacted  hy  tho  (Jovernment  in  IHIO,  for  a  prison;  and  occupied 
the  site  of  an  ancient  fort  of  Champlain's  era.  It  was  used  as  a  prison 
until  the  new  (laol  was  hnilt.  on  the  Plains  of  AlM-ahnm,  and  in  the  N. 
Yfinff  are  the  "snmhre  corridors  that  not  lon^  a^o  resounded  with  the  steps 
of  the  jaders,  and  the  narrow  cells  that  are  never  eidivened  hv  a  ray  of 
lijcht." 

Tho  ♦  Lihrary  of  the  Quebec  Literary  and  Historical  Society  is  In  tho 
N.  winja:  of  Morrin  College,  and  contains  a  rare  collection  of  hooks  re- 
latlng  to  Canadian  history  and  science,  in  the  French  and  iMiglish  lan- 
guages. This  society  is  renowned  for  its  valuahlo  researches  in  thoannal.s 
of  the  old  St.  Lawrence  Provinces,  and  has  published  numerous  volumes 
of  records  and  transactions.  It  mcludes  in  its  niembership  the  leadnig  liter- 
ati of  Eastern  Canada.  There  is  a  small  but  interesting  mnseum  connected 
with  the  librarv-liall.     There  is  also  a  well  e,jui;.ped  reading-room. 

St.  Andrew's  Church,  with  its  school  and  manse,  occupy  tlie  triangle  at 
the  intersection  of  St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.  It  is  a  low,  quaint  build- 
ing, erected  in  1809  on  ground  granted  by  Sir  James  Craig.  Previously, 
from  the  time  of  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the  Scottish  Presbyterians  ha<l 
worshipped  in  the  Jesuits'  College.  The  Wesleyan  Church  Is  a  comforta- 
ble modern  building,  just  below  Morrin  College;  beyond  which,  on 
Dauphin  St.,  is  the  chapel  of  the  Congregationalists  (Roman  Catholic). 
At  the  corner  of  St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (second  story)  Is  a  statue  of 
Wolfe,  which  Is  nearly  a  century  old,  and  bears  such  a  relation  to  Quebec 
as  does  the  Mannlkin  to  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  at  night  by  some 
12 


266      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


roystering  naval  officers,  and  carried  off  to  Barbadoes,  whence  it  was  re- 
turned many  months  after,  enclosed  in  a  cothn. 

The  *Hdtel-Diea  Convent  and  Hospital  is  the  most  extensive  pile  of 
buildings  in  Quebec,  and  is  situattul  on  pMlacc  St.  (r.  side)  niid  the  Ram- 
part. K.  of  the  long  ranges  of  buildings  (in  which  650  sick  persons  can  be 
accommodated)  are  pleasant  and  retired  gardens.  The  convent-cliurch  is 
entered  from  Charlevoix  S^,  and  contains  valuable  pictures:  the  Nativity, 
by  Stella;  the  Virgin  an<l  Child,  Coyptl;  the  Vision  of  St.  Teresa,  Me7W- 
yeot ;  St.  Bruno  in  Meditation,  Le  Sueur  (called  '*  the  Kajjhael  of  rrunce"); 
the  *  Praying  Monk,  by  Zurbaran  (undoubtcvl);  and  fine  copies  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles,  by  Jiaphnel,  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Jivbtns 
(over  the  high  altar). 

The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  by  the  Duchesge  d'Apuillon  (niece  of  Cardinal  Riche- 
lieu) in  lti39.  In  ltj64  one  of  the  present  buildin^^s  was  erected,  iuid  most  of  it  was 
built  durinf^  the  17th  century,  while  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  completed  it  in  1702. 
There  are  J3()-40  cloistered  nuns  of  tiie  order  of  the  Ilopitalii'res,  and  the  hospital 
is  open  freely  to  the  sick  and  infirm  poor  of  whatever  n'ct,  with  attendance  by  the 
best  doctors  of  the  city.  The  singing  of  the  nuns  during  tlie  Sunday  s«'rvice8  will 
interest  the  visitor. 

Tlie  ujost  precious  relic  in  the  llotel-Dieu  is  a  silver  bust  (in  life  size)  of  Hr«''beuf, 
in  whose  base  is  jjreservcd  the  skull  of  that  heroic  martyr,  .lean  de  Ihviieuf,  a  Nor- 
man .Jesuit  of  noble  blood,  arrived  at  Quebec  with  riiaii, plain  in  1()33,  and  went  to 
the  Huron  country  the  next  year.  Here  he  had  fie(iucnt  celestial  visions,  and 
labored  successfully  in  the  work  of  converting  the  nation.  He  often  said:  "  Sintio 
•me  vehtmentir  i7>i))e/li  ad  inoriftifimii  proC/iiisto  "  ;  and  his  wish  wius  gratified  whin 
his  mission-town  of  !<t.  Tgnace  wjis  storn.ed  by  the  Irociiiois  (in  l(i49)  lit'  was  liound 
to  a  stake  and  scorched  from  head  to  foot ;  the  savages  cut  away  his  lower  lip,  and 
thrust  a  red-hot  iron  down  his  throat;  hiuig  around  his  neck  a  necklace  of  red-hot 
collars  (•'  but  the  indon!ita1)!e  pri(  st  stood  like  a  ro(  k'") ;  poured  boiling  water  over 
his  head  and  face,  in  denioiiiac  n<i<  ki'ry  of  baptism ;  cut  strips  of  flesh  from  his 
limbs,  and  ate  them  before  his  eyes :  scalped  him:  cut  open  his  l)reast,  and  drank 
his  living  blood  :  filled  his  e\es  with  live  <  oals  :  and  after  four  hours  of  torture,  a 
chief  tore  out  hi  a  heart  and  dcvound  it.  "  Thus  died  .fean  de  IJrebcuf,  tlie  founder 
of  the  Huron  mission,  its  triiest  hern,  and  its  greate^t  martyr  He  came  of  a  noble 
race,  —  the  same,  it  is  .'■aid,  from  which  sprang  the  English  Earls  of  Arundel ;  but 
never  had  the  mailed  barons  of  his  line  «onfronted  a  fate  .''o  ap|)alling  with  so  pro- 
digious a  constancy.  To  the  last  he  n-fused  to  fliiu  h,  and  '  his  death  was  the  aston- 
ishnuMit  of  his  nairderers.'  ""  The  delicate  and  slender  Lalemant,  Brebeuf's  col- 
league on  the  mi.ssion,  was  tortured  for  seventeen  hours,  with  the  most  refined  and 
exquisite  varieties  of  torment.  "  It  was  .«aid  that,  at  times,  he  seemed  be>idc  him- 
8olf;  then,  rallying,  with  hands  uplifted,  he  oHered  his  sulVerings  .to  Heaven  as  a 
sacrifice."    The  bones  of  Lalemant  are  preserved  at  the  IL^tel  Dieu. 

Around  the  Ramparts. 

*  The  Citadel  is  an  innnense  and  powerful  fortification,  covering  40 
acres  of  grouiul,  and  is  situiited  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  (so  called 
from  the  glittering  crystals  found  in  the  vicinity),  which  is  said  to  be  "the 
coldest  place  in  the  British  Empire  "  Since  the  evacuation  of  Canada  by 
the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  has  been  garrisoned  by  Canadian  militia- 
nieu,  uiid  '.  isitors  are  usually  permitted  to  pass  around  the  walls  under 
the  escort  of  a  soldier.  The  **view  from  the  most  northerly  bastion 
(which  contains  an  innnense  Armstrong  gun)  surpasses  that  from  the 
Dufferiu  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  must  niagniticcnt  in  the  world.    Tlie 


St. 


QUEBEC. 


Route  6iS.       267 


St.  Charles  is  seen  winding  through  a  beautiful  undulating  plain,  and  the 
spires  of  Beauport,  Cliarlesbourg,  and  Lorettc,  with  the  white  cottages 
around  them,  form  pleasing  features  in  the  landscjipc.  On  the  S.  of  the 
parade  are  the  officers'  quarters  and  the  bonih-proof  hospital,  while  bar- 
racks and  magazines  are  seen  in  advance.  The  armory  contains  a  great 
number  of  military  curiosities,  but  is  not  always  accessible  to  visitors. 
The  Citadel  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a  broad  glacis,  which  is  broken 
by  three  ravelins;  and  the  wall  on  that  side  contains  a  line  of  casemated 
barracks.  The  entrance  to  the  Citadel  is  by  wiiy  of  a  winding  road  which 
leads  in  from  St.  Louis  St.  through  the  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  enters  first 
the  outer  ditch  of  the  ravelin,  beyond  the  strong  Chain  Gate.  Thence  it 
passes,  always  under  the  mouths  of  cannon,  into  the  main  ditch,  which  is 
faced  with  masonry,  and  at  this  point  opens  into  a  rarrow  parade,  over- 
looked by  the  retirinj,  angles  of  the  bastion.  The  curious  iron-work  of  the 
Chain  Gate  being  passed,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  an  open  triangular 
parade,  under  the  loopholes  of  the  Dalhousie  Bastion. 


ig  40 

called 

"the 

a  by 

ilitia- 

nider 

istion 

the 

The 


•*  Such  structures  carry  us  back  to  the  Mid  Jit  Ages,  the  siege  of  .Terusalem,  and 
St.  Jean  d'Acre,  and  the  days  of  the  Biiccnuiers.  In  tiie  armory  of  tiie  Citadel  they 
showed  nie  a  cluuisy  implement,  lotig  since  useless,  whidi  they  called  a  Lomi)ard 
gun.     I  thought  that  their  whole  Citadel  was  sdch  a  Lombani  gun,  fit  object  for  the 

museums  of  the  carious Silliman  states  that '  the  cold  is  so  intense  in  the 

winter  nights,  particularly  on  Cape  Diamond,  that  the  sentinels  cannot  stanc'.  it 
more  tiian  one  hour,  and  are  relieved  at  the  expiration  of  that  time;  and  even, 
as  it  is  said,  at  nujch  shorter  intervals,  in  case  of  the  ino~;t  extreme  cold.'  I  shall 
never  again  wake  up  in  a  colder  night  than  usual,  Jmt  I  shall  think  liow  rapidly  the 
pentinels  are  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  (iiiclxc,  their  (juicksilver  j)cing 
all  frozen,  as  if  apprehensive  that  some  liostilc  Wolte  may  even  then  be  scaling  tho 
Heights  of  Abraham,  or  some  pers»!vering  Arnold  about  to  issue  from  the  wilderness  ; 
some  Malay  or  Japanese,  perchance,  coming  round  by  the  N.  W.  coast,  have  chosen 
that  moment  to  assault  the  (Mtadel.  Why  I  should  as  soon  expect  to  see  the  setiti- 
nels  still  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Niiu'veh,  which  have  so  long  l)e<>n 
buried  to  the  world.  What  a  troiiblesonie  thing  a  wall  is  I  I  thought  it  was  to  de- 
feud  me,  and  not  1  it.  Of  course,  if  they  liad  no  walls  they  would  not  need  to  liave 
any  sentinels."    (Tuoreau.) 

The  Citadel  was  formerly  connected  with  the  Artillery  Barnicks,  at  the  farther 
end  of  tlie  city,  by  a  bomb-proof  covered  way  1,!^;}7  yards  long.  These  fortifications 
are  345  feet  above  the  river,  and  considerai)iv  higher  than  the  TpiK-r  Town.  The 
rock  on  which  tliey  are  founded  is  of  dark  slate,  in  whicli  arc  limi»id  (luartz-crystals. 

The  picturesque  walls  of  Quebec  are  of  no  defensive  value  since  the  nunlcrn  im- 
provements in  gunnery;  and  even  tlie  Citadel  coul  1  not  prcv.nt  dangerous  ap- 
proaches or  a  bombardment  of  the  city.  Skilful  r.ili'ary  engineers  iiave  therefore 
laid  out  a  mon>  extensive  system  of  modern  fortificifion^:,  including  lines  of  ix>sverful 
detached  forts  on  the  heights  of  I'oint  Levi,  anl  at  Siilei"  Tin-  former  were  begun 
in  1867,  and  are  nearly  complet«'d  ;  but  tlie  Sillery  forts  are  not  .\et  C')mincn<'»'d 

The  spirit  of  utilitarianism,  which  Inus  levelled  the  walU  fif  Krankfrirt  and  Vienna 
rnd  is  menacing  Boston  Common,  has  hcen  attacking  the  rampart^  of  (iuehec  for 
many  years.  The  St.  Louis  and  Prescott  Gates  were  renn)ve<l  in  1S71,  and  the  Pal- 
ace and  Hope  Gates  in  1873.  The  beturr  sentiment  of  the  .scholars  and  public  men 
of  the  Province,  headed  by  Lord  DullVrin,  s'aved  this  tide  of  .wo-called  improvement, 
and  started  the  work  of  restoration.  A  magnificent  new  portal  of  ma.-onry,  with 
towers  and  medineval  apjiurtenanceH,  was  erected  on  the  sit«'  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate 
in  1878-79  ;  and  at  tho  same  time  another  very  imposing  entrance,  called  Kent 
Gate,  wjifl  opened  between  this  and  St  John's  (Jate.  Other  projects  are  maturing, 
to  still  further  enrich  and  beautify  the  ancient  fortrccis  city,  and  to  erect  a  stutelj 
palace  for  the  GoTerDors-Uenerul,  on  the  Citadel. 


268     Jioute  68, 


QUEBEC. 


ii  I 


I  t 


The  Esplanade  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  I^uis  Gate  (within),  and 
the  tourist  is  recommendod  to  walk  alon^  the  ramparts  to  St.  John's  Gate, 
cro-^sing  the  new  Kent  Gate,  viewing  the  deep  fosse,  the  massive  outworks, 
and  the  antiquated  ordnance  at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  the  Con- 
gregational (Catholic)  (.'huroh,  and  the  National  School;  and  Montcalm's 
Ward  and  the  new  Parliament  Building  are  on  the  I.  *  St.  John's  Gate 
is  a  strong  and  graceful  structure  which  was  erected  in  1869.  While  rally- 
ing his  soldiers  outside  of  this  gate,  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  mortally 
wounded;  and  Col.  Brown  (of  MassachHsetts)  attacked  this  point  while 
Arnold  and  Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  To  the  1.  is 
St.  John's  Ward  (see  page  26!)) ;  and  the  road  to  St.  Foy  passes  below.  The 
ramparts  must  be  left  at  this  point,  and  D'Auteuil  and  St.  Hclene  Sts. 
follow  their  course  by  the  Artillery  Bnrracls,  amid  fine  grounds  at  the 
S.  W.  angle  of  the  fortifications.  The  French  garrison  erected  the  most 
important  of  these  buildings  (600  ft.  long)  in  1750,  and  the  British  Govern- 
ment has  since  made  large  additions.  The  barracks  are  now  occupied  by 
(•overnment  works.  On  und  near  St.  Helene  St.  are  several  churches,  — 
St.  Patrick's  (Irish  Catholic),  Trinity  (Anglican),  the  Baptist,  and  the  Con- 
gregational. 

After  crossing  the  wide  and  unsightly  gap  made  by  the  removal  of  the 
Palace  Gate,  the  rambler  may  follow  the  course  of  the  walls  from  the 
Hotel  Dleu  (see  page  266)  to  the  Parliament  Building.  They  occupy  the 
crest  of  the  clifT,  and  command  fine  views  over  the  two  rivers  and  the  Isle 
of  Orleans  and  Laurentian  Mts.  The  walls  are  thin  and  low,  but  are  fur- 
nished with  lines  of  loopholes  and  with  bastions  for  artillery.  The  walk 
takes  an  easterly  course  beyond  the  angle  of  the  convent-buildings,  and 
passes  between  the  battlements  and  the  high  walls  of  the  Hotel-Dieu  gar- 
dens for  nearly  500  ft. 

The  streets  which  intersect  the  Rampart  beyond  this  point  are  of  a  quaint  and 
pleasing  chanicter.  One  of  them  is  thus  described  by  Howells :  "  The  thresholds 
and  doorsteps  were  covered  with  the  neatest  and  brightest  oilcloth  ;  the  wooden 
sidewalk  was  very  clean,  lik»'  the  st«>ep,  roughly  paved  stnet  itself;  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill  down  which  it  sloped  wa«  a  breailtli  of  the  <  itv  wall,  pierced  for  musketry, 
and,  past  the  comer  of  one  of  the  houses,  the  half-Ungtli  of  <'nnnon  showing.  It 
had  all  the  charm  of  those  ancient  streets,  dear  to  Old-World  travel,  in  which  the 
pait  and  present,  decay  and  repair,  peiu'e  and  war,  have  made  friends  in  an  effect 
that  not  only  wins  the  eye.  but,  however  illogically,  touches  the  heart;  and  over 
the  top  of  the  wall  it  had  a  stretch  of  landscaiw  as  I  know  not  what  Euro|>ean 
street  can  command  :  the  St  liiiwrence,  blue  and  wide  ;  a  bit  of  the  white  village  of 
Beauport  on  its  bank  ;  then  a  vast  breadth  of  pale  green,  upward-sloping  meadows  ; 
then  the  purple  height*;  and  the  hazy  heaven  above  them.-' 

Since  l*re.«cott  Gate  fell,  there  was  '*  nothing  left,  so  picturesque  and  characteristic 
ns  IIoiH?  Gate,  and  T  doubt  if  anywheres  in  Knro|>e  there  is  a  more  mediaeval-looking 
l)it  of  military  architecture.  The  heavy  stone  gateway  is  black  with  age.  and  the 
gate,  which  has  probably  never  been  closed  in  our  century,  is  of  massive  frame,  set 
thick  with  ndghty  bolts  and  spikes.  The  wall  here  sw(>eps  along  tlie  brow  of  the 
crag  on  which  the  city  is  built,  and  a  steep  stnt't  dropx  down,  by  stone- parapeted 
curve**  and  angles  from  the  Ujjper  to  the  Lower  Town,  where,  in  1776,  nothing  but 
a  narrow  lane  bordered  the  Pt.  liawrence.  A  considerable  breadth  of  land  has  since 
been  won  from  the  river,  and  several  streets  and  many  piers  now  stretch  between 
this  alley  and  the  water ;  but  the  old  Sault  au  Matelot  still  crouches  and  creeps 


In 

Carri 
r.  on 
Pass! 
This 
its  set 
this  p 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      269 


along  under  the  shelter  of  the  city  wall  and  the  overhanging  rock,  which  is  thickly 
bearded  with  weeds  and  grass,  and  trickles  with  abundant  moisture.  It  must  tie 
an  ice-pit  in  winter,  and  I  should  think  it  the  last  spot  on  the  continent  for  the 
summer  to  find ;  but  when  the  summer  has  at  last  found  it,  tlie  old  Sault  au 
Matelot  puts  on  a  vagabond  air  of  Soutliern  leisure  and  abandon,  not  to  bo  matched 
anywhere  out  of  Italy.  Looking  from  that  jutting  rock  near  Hope  Gate,  behind 
which  the  defeated  Americans  took  refuge  from  tl>e  fire  of  their  enemies,  the  vista 
is  almost  unique  for  a  certain  scenic  squalor  and  gyi>sy  luxury  of  color:  sag-roofed 
barns  and  stables,  weak-backed  and  suiiken-chestcd  workshops  of  every  sort  lounge 
along  in  tumble-down  succession,  and  lean  up  ngainf^t  ihe  clifT  in  every  imaginable 
posture  of  worth  lessneas  and  decrepitude;  light  wooden  galleries  cross  to  them  from 
the  second  stories  of  the  honses  which  look  back  on  the  alley  ;  and  over  thefic  galleries 
flutters,  from  a  labyrinth  of  clothes-lines,  a  variety  of  bright-coloretl  garments  of 
all  ages,  sexes,  and  conditions  ;  while  the  footway  underneath  abounds  in  gossiping 
women,  smoking  men,  idle  poultry,  cats,  children,  and  large  indolent  Newfoundland 
dogs."     (UowELLS's  A  Chance  Arquaintanre.) 

Passing  the  ends  of  these  quiet  streets,  and  crossing  the  gaj)  caused  by 
the  removal  of  Ho])e  Gate,  the  Rampart  promenade  turns  to  the  S.,  by  the 
immense  block  of  the  Laval  University  (sec  page  263)  and  its  concealed 
gardens.  The  course  is  now  to  the  S.,  and  soon  reaches  the  *  Grand  Bat- 
tery, where  22  32-pounders  command  tiie  river,  and  from  whose  terrace  a 
pleasing  view  may  be  obtained. 

A  short  detour  leads  out  again  to  the  Dufferin  Terrace  (see 
page  259)  Des  Carri6res  St.  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d'Armes  to  the  G(W' 
emor''s  Garden,  a  pleasant  sun  mcr-even'ng  resort,  with  a  monument  65  ft. 
high,  erected  in  1827  to  tlie  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  bear- 
ing the  elegant  an  1  classic  inscription: 

Mortem.     Vihtus.     Communem. 
>  ,  Famam.     Histohia. 

monumentum.     postekitas. 
Dedit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a  battery  which  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carri^res  St.  leads  to  the  iimer  glacis  of  the  Citadel,  and  by  turning  to  the 
r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be  seen. 
Passing  a  cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r.,  the  Chnlmtrs  Church  is  reached. 
This  is  a  symmetrical  Gothic  building  occupied  by  the  Presbyterians,  and 
its  services  have  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  old  Scottish  church.  Beyond 
this  point  is  St.  Louis  St.,  whence  the  circuit  of  the  walls  was  begun. 


The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  W.  on  the  plateau,  from  the 
city-walls  to  the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  The  population  is  mostly 
French,  and  the  quarter  is  entered  by  passing  down  St.  John  St.  and 
through  St.  John's  (Hate  Glacis  St.  leads  to  the  r.,  just  beyond  the  walls, 
N)  Mie  Convent  of  the  Graij  Slsftrn,  vliich  lias  a  loCty  and  olegiint  <'li:ip('l 
I  ^UMC  are  about  70  nuns,  whose  Ii\es  ar«;  devoted  to  teuL-hiiig  and  to 
visiting  the  sick.     This  building  shelters  136  orphans  and  infirm  persons, 


■.;l'| 

*"■♦  St 

m 

1  'I 


r- 


: 


270      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


fl 


I  i 


and  the  sisters  teach  700  female  children.  It  overlooks  the  St.  Charles 
valley,  commanding  fine  views.  Just  nbove  the  nunnery  is  the  Convent 
of  the  Christian  Brothers,  facing  on  the  glacis  of  the  rampart.  A  short 
distance  out  St.  John  St.  is  St.  Matthew's  Church  (Episcopal);  beyond 
which  is  the  stately  Church  of  St.  John.  Claire-Fontaine  St.  leads  S. 
from  this  church  to  the  Grande  All^e,  passing  just  inside  the  line  of  the 
Martello  Towers;  and  Sutherland  St.,  leading  into  the  Lower  Town,  is  a 
little  Avay  bej'ond.  The  St.  Foy  toll-gate  is  less  than  ^M.  from  St.  John's 
Church.  The  Kent  Gate,  between  St.  John's  Gate  and  the  St.  Louis  Gate, 
is  a  very  interesting  piece  of  feudal  architecture,  with  turrets,  arrow-slits, 
etc.  It  was  built  by  Queen  Victoria,  as  a  memcrial  of  her  father,  the  Duke 
of  Kent. 

"  Above  St.  John's  Gate,  at  the  end  of  the  street  of  that  name,  devoted  entirely  to 
business,  there  is  at  sunset  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  imaginable.  The  river 
St.  Charles,  gambolling,  as  it  were,  in  the  rays  of  the  departing  luminary,  the  light 
Btill  lingering  on  the  spires  of  Lorette  and  Gharlesbourg,  until  it  fades  away  beyond 
the  lofty  mountains  of  Bonhomme  and  Tonnonthuan,  presents  an  evening  scene  of 
gorgeous  and  surpassing  splendor."     (Hawkins.) 

"  A  sunset  seen  from  the  heights  above  the  wide  valley  of  the  St  Charles,  bathing 
in  tender  light  the  long  undulating  lines  of  remote  hills,  and  transfiguring  with  glory 
the  great  chain  of  the  Laurentides,  is  a  sight  of  beauty  to  remain  in  the  mind  for- 
ever."   (Marshall.) 

» 

The  Montcalm  Ward  may  also  be  reached  by  passing  out  St.  Louis  St., 
through  the  intricate  and  formidable  lines  of  ravelins  and  redoubts  near 
the  site  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate. 

The  Convent  of  the  Good 
Shepherd  is  in  this  ward,  and  has,  in  its  church,  a  fine  copy  of  Murillo's 
"  Conception,"  by  Plamondon.  There  are  74  nuns  here,  90  penitents,  and 
600  girl-students.  The  dark  and  heavy  mediaeval  structure  on  the  Grand 
Allee  was  built  for  the  Canada  Military  Asylum,  to  take  care  of  the  widows 
and  orphans  of  British  soldiers  Avho  died  on  the  Canadian  stations.  Near 
the  comer  of  Dt  Salaberry  St  is  St.  Bridget's  Asylum,  connected  with  St. 
Patrick's  Church.  The  Ladies'  Protestant  Home  is  nearly  opposite,  and 
is  a  handsome  building  of  white  brck,  where  70  old  men  and  young  girls 
are  kept  from  want  by  the  bounty  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec. 

The  Martello  Towers  are  four  in  number,  and  were  built  outside  the 
extra-mural  wards  in  order  to  protect  them  and  to  occupy  the  line  of 
heights.  They  were  erected  in  1807  - 12,  at  an  expense  of  $  60,000,  and 
are  arranged  for  the  reception  of  7  guns  each.  They  are  circular  in  form, 
and  have  walls  13  ft.  thick  toward  the  country,  while  on  the  other  side  they 
are  7  ft.  thick.  The  Jail  is  about  J  M.  in  advance  of  the  towers,  and 
is  a  massive  stone  building,  with  walls  pierced  for  musketry.  Near  this 
point  (turning  to  the  1.  from  the  Grand  All^e  beyond  the  toll-gate),  and  on 
the  edge  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham  (extending  to  the  S.),  is  a  monument 
consisting  of  a  tall  column,  decked  with  trophies,  and  rising  from  a  square 
base,  on  which  is  the  inscription.' 


QUEBEC. 


JtauU  68.      271 


Charles 
]!onvent 
A.  short 
beyond 
eads  S. 
e  of  the 
wn,  is  a 
.  John's 
lis  Gate, 
ow-slits, 
he  Duke 


intirely  to 
The  river 

the  Ht^ht 
ly  beyond 

scene  of 

B,bn  thing 
with  glory 
mind  for- 


,oiiis  St., 
ibts  near 

he  Good 
Murillo's 
ents,  and 
le  Grand 
e  widows 
us.  Near 
with  St. 
)site,  and 
ung  girls 

Ltside  the 
e  line  of 
,000,  and 
•  in  forni, 
side  they 
wers,  and 
Near  this 
;),  and  on 
nonument 
)  a  square 


HRKE  DIED 

WOLFE 
victorious. 
^  ,  Sept.  13. 

*.  ;  i-  1759. 

"The  horror  of  the  night,  the  precipice  scaled  by  Wolfe,  the  empire  he  with  a 
handful  of  men  added  to  England,  and  the  glorious  catastrophe  of  contentedly  ter- 
minating life  where  his  fame  began Ancient  story  may  be  ransacked,  and 

ostentatious  philosophy  thrown  into  the  account,  before  an  episode  can  be  found  to 
rank  with  Wolfe's."    (Wiluam  Pitt.) 

TTie  Lower  Town. 

The  most  picturesque  approach  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town  is 
by  the  Champlain  Steps  (see  paj^e  264).  This  route  leads  to  the  busiest 
and  most  crowded  part  of  the  old  river  wards,  and  to  the  long  lines  of  steam- 
boat wharves.  Notre  Dame  des  Viotoires  is  in  the  market  square  in  the 
Lower  Town,  and  is  a  plain  old  structure  of  stone,  built  on  the  site  of 
Champlain's  residence.  It  was  erected  in  1690,  and  was  called  Notre  Da.re 
c?««  Vtctoij'es  to  commemorate  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  the  English 
attacks  of  1690  and  1711,  in  honor  of  which  an  annual  religious  feast  was 
instituted.  A  prophecy  was  nade  by  a  nun  that  the  church  would  be  de- 
stroyed by  the  conquering  Jritibh;  and  in  1759  it  was  burned  during  the 
bombardment  from  Wolfe's  batteries.  S.  of  Notre  Dame  is  the  spacious 
Champlain  Market,  near  an  open  square  on  whose  water-front  the  river- 
steamers  land.  The  naiTow  Champlain  St.  may  be  followed  to  the  S., 
under  Cape  Diamond  and  by  the  point  where  Montgomery  fell,  to  the  great 
timber-coves  above. 

St.  Peter  St.  runs  N.  between  the  cliffs  and  the  river,  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  chief  trade  of  the  city,  containing  numerou'^  banks,  public  offices,  and 
wholesale  houses.  The  buildings  are  of  the  prevalent  gray  stone,  and  aro 
massive  and  generally  plain.  The  parallel  lane  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  is 
the  scene  of  the  final  discomfiture  of  the  American  assault  in  1775.  It  is 
named  Sault  au  Matelot,  to  commemorate  the  leap  of  a  dog  from  the  cliff 
above,  near  the  Grand  Batterv.  Leadenhall  St.  leads  off  on  the  r.  to  the 
great  piers  of  I'ointe  a  Carey  and  to  the  imposing  classic  building  of  the 
*  Custom-Houso,  which  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St. 
Charles  Rivers.  St  Paul  St.  runs  W.  from  near  the  end  of  St.  Peter  St., 
along  the  narrow  strip  between  ♦^he  St.  Charles  and  the  northern  cliffs,  and 
passes  the  roads  ascending  to  the  Hope  and  Palace  Gates. 

The  Queen's  Fuel-  Yard  (1.  side)  is  beyond  the  Palace  Market,  and  occupies  the  site 
of  an  immense  range  of  buildings  erected  by  M.  Begon,  one  of  the  later  Roval  In- 
tendants  of  New  France.  Here  also  lived  Bigot  in  all  the  feudal  splendor  of  the  old 
French  noblesse,  on  the  revenues  which  he  extorted  from  the  oppressed  Province. 
In  1775  the  palace  was  captured  by  Arnold's  Virginia  riflemen,  who  so  greatly  an- 
noyed the  g:irrlson  that  the  buildings  wore  mjc  ou  tire  and  couKumed  by  shellB  from 
tlio  batteriej  of  the  Ui)per  Town. 


•i^i 


272       Route  6S. 


QUEBEC. 


St.  Pnul  St.  is  proloMcod  hy  St.  J n^vp/i  (S7.,  tlio  niiiiii  thorouphfnroof  this 
qniirtor,  niid  t\w  lK)iiii.l!iry  Ix'twcrii  tlic  .fsKnics  Cartionuul  St.  IJocli  VViirds. 
The  l.'ittor  is  occniiicij   chiefly  by  inMimtMctdries  (on  the 

shori's  of  tlic  St  (Mmrlos):  and  tlic  narrnw  nihi  plMidN-piivcd  streets  of 
Jnqnes  Tiirticr,  townrd  tlic  iiortlicrii  walls,  aro  lille  '  with  quaint  littlo 
houses  and  iiitcivstiiip;  (/tnrr  view  s  ahoiit  the  liouics  of  the  V  Midi-Canadian 
artisans.  St.  Rooh's  Church  is  a  very  spaeions  huildin;;,  with  broad  in- 
terior gaIl(M'ies,  and  contains  several  reliLrions  paintinj;;s.  The  Convent  of 
Notre  Diinu'  is  opp()site  St.  h'oeh's,  and  has  70  nuns  (black  costume),  who 
teueh  72r»  children. 

The  *  Marine  Hospital  is  u  large  and  inqxisinj;  modem  building,  in 
Ionic  architecture,  situated  in  a  park  of  six  acres.  It  is  rot  now  in  use. 
The  General  Hospital  and  the  monastcy  of  Notre  Damo 
des  Anojcs  form  an  »'xtensive  pile  of  buildino;^,  on  St.  Ours  St.,  near  the 
St.  Charles.  Tliey  were  foimded  by  St.  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  (Jiiebec 
(in  1GI>3),  for  invalids  and  iiuMu-ables.  lie  spent  100,000  crowns  in  this 
work,  erecting;  tlu'  luiest  building  in  Canada  (at  that  time).  It  is  now 
con(iuote(l  by  a  sui)erior  and  45  mms  of  St.  Augustine.  The  convcnt- 
chmvh  of  Notre  Dame  des  Auges  has  14  paintings  by  Leyarc^  witli  un 
Assumption  (over  tlu^  high  altar)  dating  from  1G71. 

Pointe  mix  Li6rrrs.  or  Hare  Pohit,  isboyonil  the  Oonornl  IlospitJil,  on  the  mood- 
OW8  of  tlie  St.  ('Ii,iri«<s.  It  is  supposed  to  bo  tht>  place  where  the  pious  Franciscan 
monks  foumhvl  the  first  n,is.><ion  in  Canada.  JaetiuesCartier's  wiiiter-«|uarter8  in 
1R^5  were  here,  ami  on  leiiviii);  this  point  he  carried  olTtlie  Indian  kiiif;,  Donnacona, 
who  \v,n,s  afti'rwnrds  liaptized  with  jrieat  pomp  in  the  ntajrnifitent  cathedral  of 
Rouen.  On  tiiis  jrroiuid,  also,  the  nniiy  of  Montcalm  tried  to  iitliy  after  the  dinas- 
trous  battle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham 

The  suburb  of  the  lianUxnc  lies  beyond  St.  Ours  St.,  and  is  occupied  by 
the  homes  of  the  lower  classes,  with  the  heights  toward  St.  Koy  rising  on 
the  S.     St   Sam\'ui''s  Church  is  the  only  fine  building  in  this  quarter. 

Tn  May,  ir).%,.laeque8Cartter  with  his  patrician  officers  and  hardy  sailors  attended 
hiifh  mass  and  received  tiie  bisliop's  blessing  in  tlie  Cathedral  of  St.  Malo,  and  then 
departed  across  the  unknown  western  j-eas.  The  largest  of  his  vessels  was  ol  only  120 
tons'  burden,  vet  tlu'  Ih'ct  crossed  the  occiui  .safely,  and  ascended  tlie  broad  St.  Law- 
rence. Havinjx  pass(>d  the  d.-uk  Sagueiiay  clitVs  and  the  vine-laden  shores  of  the  Isle 
of  Or!e:ms,  he  entonMl  a  bro.id  basin  where  "a  mighty  pnniiontory,  ru^'ged  and 
bare,  thrust  its  scar}ted  front  into  the  raging  current.  Here,  clothed  in  the  majesty 
of  solitude,  bre;>tliing  the  stern  poetry  of  the  wilderness,  rose  the  <  liIVs  now  rich 
with  heroic  nienu.ries,  when>  the  liery  Count  Frontenac  cast  detiaine  at  his  foes, 
whew  Wolfe,  ^lontcalni,  and  Mont'Toniery  fell.  Asxet  all  was  a  nameless  barbar- 
ism, and  a  cluster  of  wigw.ams  held  the  site  of  the  rock-built  «ity  of  Quebec.  Its 
name  was  Stadaconc,  and  it  owned  the  sway  of  the  royal  Donuacona." 

It  is  held  as  an  old  tradition  that  when  Cartier's  Norman  sailors  first  saw  the 
prtMuontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  they  shouted  "  Quel hfc  .'  *'  ("  What  a  beak  I '")  which 
by  a  natural  elision  has  been  changed  to  Quebec.  Others  claim  that  they  named  the 
place  in  lovinjr  memory  of  Candebec,  on  the  Seine,  to  which  its  natural  features  bear 
a  magnified  n'seniblance.  Hut  the  mi>re  likely  oriirin  of  the  name  is  from  the  Indian 
word  kiber^  signifying  a  strait,  and  ai)plied  to  the  ( oniparative  narrowing  of  the  river 
above  the  Hasin.  It  is,  however,  held  in  support  of  the  Norman  origin  of  the  mime 
that  the  seal  (^f  William  de  la  I'ole,  Earl  of  Snlfolk  in  the  15th  century,  bears  the 
title  of  liOrd  of  Quebec.  This  noble  had  large  domains  in  France,  and  was  the  vic- 
tor at  Crevaut  aud  Compeigne,  and  the  conqueror  of  .loan  of  Arc,  but  was  impeached 


site,  I 


»  Char 
a  naval 
plored  tl 
l63A)he 
brave,  it 
portance 
Huroni, 


QUEliFX'. 


Route  OS.       273 


)  of  this 
Wards, 
(on  the 
ects  of 
lit  little 
i\iiii(iian 
oiul  in- 
rrcnf  of 
u'),  wlio 

ding,  in 
in  use. 

re  Diinio 
iioar  tlio 

(Jucl)ec 
^  in  this 
t  is  now 
convcnt- 

with  un 


the  moad- 
Kriinciscan 
unrtcra  in 
oiiimoona, 
[licdral  of 
the  dlHUS- 

upied  by 

rising  on 

ter. 

8  attended 
and  then 
o(  only  120 
id  St.  Law- 
of  the  Isle 
iifrgod  anil 
;hc  niajt'sty 
now  ritli 
t  his  foes, 
ss  harhnr- 
Liebcc.     ltd 

st  saw  the 
!'•)  which 
named  the 

\t\in's  hear 
tlic  Indian 

ol  tlu>  rivor 

r  tiie  niiine 
,  bears  the 

vas  tlu'  vic- 
ini  peached 


and  put  to  death  (as  narrated  by  ShakestMvire,  Kinj?  Henry  VT  ,  Part  TT.,  Act  TV., 
Scene  1)  for  losing;  the  Kii^iisii  provincrs  in  Krance  utter  114  ardiiotis  catii|iiii<;iiM. 

When  (!art.i«!r  went  to  Montreal  his  men  l»iiilt  a  tort  and  prepareil  winter-)|uiirterfl 
near  tlie  St  Cliarles  Kiver.  Soon  after  iiis  return  iin  intense  (idil  ^et  in,  and  nearly 
every  man  in  tiie  tli'et  was  stridden  down  witli  the  seurw  ,  of  whieh  niiiny  died  in 
Knmt  sntferin);.  In  th(*  s|)rin^Minie,  Ciiriier  |il!intei|  ihe  cross  and  tienr-de-lis  on 
the  site  of  (.inehee,  and  retnriieil  to  France,  earrs  in^c  Kin);  Doimai'ona  and  M'vcral 
of  ids  cincfs  as  |»ri-oners.  Tlu'se  Indi.ins  were  soon  afterw.utls  received  into  tiie 
('atliclie  ('linr<-)i,  witii  nincli  pomp  and  leremons,  and  died  within  a  year,  in 
Fra.ice.  In  1 04 1  ('iirtier  returned  witli  5  ve>el-i  and  erected  forts  ut  <'ap  Iton^e, 
bnf.  th(»  Imliins  were  suspicions,  and  the  colony  wns  soon  ntiiinloiied.  Soon  after- 
wardrt  llolterval,  tlie  Viceroy  of  N(>vv  h'rxnce,  fonndeil  another  <'olony  on  tjie  Hanie 
site,  tnit  after  a  loni;  and  nds(?niiile  svinter  it  also  w.is  l)roken  i;p. 

In  tlie  yeiir  III  IS  the  city  of  (^nelte*-  was  fonnded  liy  the  nolde  Champlain,'  who 
er«'cted  a  fort  here,  ami  laid  the  foundations  of  ('anada.  A  party  of  Kriin<  i<can 
nioiiks  arrive  I  in  Mir*,  and  the  .It^snits  came  in  1(>44.  In  Ili'JS  Sir  Daviil  Kirke 
vainly  attacked  the  place  with  a  small  Kni^lish  fleet,  hut  in  It'rJMie  was  more  snc- 
cessful,  and,  alter  a  loiijc  hlockaile,  made  hims(>lf  master  of  (inehec.  It  wa-i  re.-tored 
to  France  in  ItvJJ ;  and  in  1l>«T>  (lovernor  Champlain  died,  and  was  l>nried  in  the 
Low((r  Town.  Champlain's  successor  was  (Mia rles  de  Montmaj;ny,  a  hrav«!  and  de- 
vout Knixht  of  Malta,  on  whom  the  IrcM|Uois  hestowed  the  name  of  Ononlio 
(•' Great  Mountain '■).  The  work  of  founding  new  settlements  and  of  proselyting 
the  Ilurons  and  <M)nd)atinj^  the  InHjuois  was  continued  for  the  next  century  from 
the  rock  of  tiuehec. 

After  the  kin^  had  erect(Ml  Ids  military  colonies  alon^  the  St.  Lawnrnce,  he  found 
that  another  element  was  neces.»^ary  in  order  to  ni'ike  them  permanent  ami  projrres- 
Bive.  Therefore,  lustwcen  Ilili'*  jind  l(>7;{  hi^  .'■ciit  to  tinel»e«-  1,(100  (;irls,  most  of  whom 
wore  of  the  Frencli  pea.saiitry  ;  thoiit^li  tlie  lutendant,  mindl'iil  of  the  tastes  of  his 
oflicers,  demanded  and  received  a  consignment  of  voiniK  ladies  (^^  t/nnoisflles  hien 
ckoijies''').  Tlie.se  cargoes  included  a  wide  v.irietv,  from  I'arisiun  v.if^mntH  to  Nor- 
man ladies,  and  wen;  maliciously  stvled  hy  one  of  the  chief  nuns,  ''  ndxed  f^ood-t  " 
{une  marrlmnilise.  mtUt).  The  j^ovcimMfiit  provided  tliem  with  dowries  ;  hiw  liclorn 
were  excluded  hy  law  from  tradiii);,  fishimr,  and  liiintinf;,and  were  distinj^uished  hy 
'*  martcH  of  infamy  '';  and  the  French  Crown  j;ave  hounfics  f»tr  children  (each  inhab- 
itant who  liad  10  children  heinK  «'utitled  to  a  pension  of  from  400  to  H(K)  livref). 
About  the  year  l()tj4  the  <"ity  indulniMJ  in  cxfrMordiiiary  festivities  on  tlu;  (xcasion 
of  the  arrival  of  tim  hones  of  St.  Fiavien  and  St.  Feli<ite,  which  the  PofK!  had  pre- 
sented to  the  cathedral  of  (iu<!l»ec.  These;  hoimrcd  relics  were  borm;  in  solemn  pro- 
cession through  the  stn^ets,  amid  the  sounds  of  mirtial  music  and  the  roarinnj  of 
saluting  batteries,  and  were  escort(>d  by  the  ,Man|ui-<  dt;  Tracy,  the  Intendant  Talon, 
and  the  vali.mt  Ooun-elhis,  V)ehi;;d  whom  marched  tlu!  royal  giianls  and  the  fumouH 
Savoyard  regiment  of  (Jarignan-Saliercs,  veh^rans  of  fh»!  Turkish  campaigns  The 
dioce.se  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  1(J74,  and  endowed  '.vith  tiio  revenues  of  tlie  ancient 
abbeys  of  Maubec  and  Henevent.  In  tlie  .same  shi|)  with  I'ishop  Laval  came  Kather 
Uennepin,  who  explored  tho  Mi.s.sissippi  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  tlie  fearless  explorer  La  Salle. 

In  1672  the  Count  de  Fronteiiae  was  .lent  here  as  Governor,  and  in  IMOO  he  bravely 
repulsed  an  attack  by  Sir  Win.  I'hipps's  Heet  (from  Moston),  inflicting  f-iivere damage 
by  a  cannonade  from  the  fort,  llesides  many  men,  tlie  assailants  lost  their  adndral's 
standard  and  several  ships.  In  1711  Sir  lloveiiden  Walker  sailed  from  Boston 
against  (Jnebec,  but  he  lost  in  one  day  eight  vessel-*  and  884  men  l)y  shii)wr(  ck  on 
the  terrible  ii-ef;  of  the  Egg  Islands.  Strong  fortiflc,aM)ns  were  built  soon  after ;  and 
in  1759  Gen.  Wolfe  came  up  the  river  with  S,(»'»0  IlriMsh  soldiers.  The  Marquis  de 
Montcalm  was  tlien  Governor,  and  he  moved  tho  French  army  into  fortified  lines  on 
Heauport  I'lains,  where  he  defeat((d  tli(>  British  in  a  sjui-^ninary  action.  On  the 
nigiit  of  Sept.  12,  Wolfe's  army  drift«'d  up  stream  on  the  rising  tide,  and  succeeded 
in  scaling  the  steep  clilTs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  fired  upon  by  the  French 
outposts  ;  but  before  Montcalm  could  bring  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles  the  Brit- 

^  Champliiin  was  born  of  a  good  family  m  the  province  of  Snintongp,  in  1.'570.  Ho  became 
a  naval  officer,  and  was  iif'tcrwiird  ntta'hed  to  the  person  of  King  Henri  \X ,  In  W^''  he  ex- 
plored tho  St  Lawrence  River  np  to  tho  St.  Louis  Kapids,  iind  altcrwnrd  i until  his  death  in 
1633)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  head-wiiters  of  the  Ottawa.  He  was  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  that  "  the  Ridvntion  of  one  houI  is  of  moie  im- 
portance than  the  foundini;  of  a  new  cmnlre. '  He  estabUshed  strong  missiont  among  the 
Hurona,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 

12*  R 


K^ 


274      RiruU  08, 


QUEBEC. 


I 


ish  lines  were  formed  upon  the  Plains  of  Abraham  ;  and  in  the  short  bnt  desperate 
battle  which  ensuud  both  the  generals  were  mortally  wounded.  The  English  lost 
664  men,  and  the  French  lost  1,5(M).  The  French  army,  which  was  largely  <  ompo^ed 
of  provincial  levies  (with  the  regiments  of  La  Guienne,  Royal  Koussilun,  Beam,  La 
Sarre,  and  Languedoc),  gave  way,  and  retreated  across  the  St.  Charles,  and  a  few 
days  later  the  city  surreuden;d. 

In  April,  1760,  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  (of  that  Levis  family  —Dukes  of  Yentadour 
—  which  claimed  to  possess  rei-ords  of  their  lineal  descent  from  the  patriarch  Levi) 
led  the  reorganized  French  army  to  St.  Foy,  near  Quebec.  Gen.  Murray,  hoping  to 
surprise  Levis,  advanced  (with  3,0()0  men)  from  his  fine  position  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham  ;  but  the  French  were  vigilant,  and  Murray  was  defeated  and  hurled  back 
within  the  city  gates,  having  lost  1,(K)0  men  and  20  cannon.  Levis  now  laid  close 
siege  to  the  city,  and  battered  the  walls  (and  especially  St.  John's  Gate)  from  three 
heavy  field-works.  Quebec  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannonade  from  182 
guns,  until  Commodore  Swanton  came  up  the  river  with  a  fleet  from  England.  The 
British  supremacy  in  Canada  was  soon  afterwards  assured  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris, 
and  Voltaire  congratulated  Louis  XV.  on  being  rid  of"  1,500  leagues  of  frozen  coun- 
try." The  memorable  words  of  Gov.  Shirley  before  the  Massachusetts  Legislature 
(June  28, 1746), "  Canada  est  delenda,^^  were  at  last  verified,  but  the  campaigns  had 
cost  the  British  Government  $400,000,000,  and  resulted  in  the  loss  of  the  richest  of 
England's  colonies.  For  the  attempted  taxation  of  the  Americans,  which  resulted 
in  the  War  of  Independence,  was  planned  in  order  to  cover  the  deficit  caused  in  the 
British  Treasury  by  the  Canadian  campaigns. 

In  the  winterof  1775-6  the  Americans  besieged  the  city,  then  commanded  by  Gen. 
Guy  Carleton  (afterwards  made  Lord  Dorchester).  The  provisions  of  the  besiegers 
began  to  fail,  their  regiments  were  being  depleted  by  sickness,  and  their  light  guns 
made  but  little  impression  on  the  massive  city  walls ;  so  an  assault  was  ordered  and 
conducted  before  dawn  on  Dec.  31, 1775.  In  the  midst  of  a  heavy  snow-storm  Arnold 
advanced  through  the  Lower  Town  from  his  quarters  near  the  St.  Charles  River,  and 
led  his  800  New-Englanders  and  Virginians  over  two  or  three  barricades.  The  Mon- 
treal Bank  and  several  other  massive  stone  houses  were  filled  with  British  regulars, 
who  guarded  the  approaches  with  such  a  deadly  fire  that  Arnold's  men  were  forced 
to  talte  refuge  in  the  adjoining  houses,  while  Arnold  himself  was  badly  wounded  and 
carried  to  the  rear.  Meanwhile  Montgomery  was  leading  his  New-Yorkers  and  Con- 
tinentals N.  along  Cham  plain  St.  by  the  river-side.  The  intention  was  for  the  two 
attacking  columns,  after  driving  the  enemy  from  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  before 
the  Prescott  Gate  and  carry  it  by  storm.  A  strong  barricade  wa«  stretched  across 
Champlain  St.  from  the  cliff  to  the  river  ;  but  when  its  guards  saw  the  great  masses 
of  the  attacking  column  advancing  through  the  twilight,  they  tied.  In  all  proba- 
bility Montgomery  would  have  crossed  the  barricade,  delivered  Arnold's  men  by  at- 
tacking the  enemy  in  the  rear,  and  then,  with  1,600  men  flushed  with  victory,  would 
have  escaladed  the  Prescott  Gate  and  won  Quebec  and  Canada,  —  but  that  one  of 
the  fleeing  Canadians,  impelled  by  a  strange  caprice,  turned  quickly  back,  and  fired 
the  cannon  which  stood  loaded  on  the  barricade.  Montgomery  and  many  of  his 
ofllcers  and  men  were  stricken  down  by  the  shot,  and  the  column  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  fled.  The  British  forces  were  now  concentrated  on  Arnold's  men,  who 
were  hemmed  in  by  a  sortie  from  the  Palace  Gate,  and  426  officers  and  men  were 
made  prisoners.  A  painted  board  has  been  hung  high  up  on  the  clitf  over  the 
place  in  Champlain  St.  where  Montgomery  fell.  Montgomery  was  an  officer  in  Wolfe's 
army  when  Quebec  was  taken  from  the  French  16  years  before,  and  knew  the 
ground.  His  mistake  was  in  heading  the  forlorn  hope.  Quebec  was  the  capital  of 
Canada  from  1760  to  1791,  and  after  that  it  served  as  a  remi-capital,  until  the  found- 
ing of  Ottawa  City.  In  1846,  2,900  houses  were  burnt,  and  the  place  was  nearly 
destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber-trade,  which  is  still  its 
specialty. 

In  September,  1874,  Quebec  was  filled  with  prelates,  priests,  and  enthusiastic 
people,  and  the  second  centennial  of  the  foundation  of  the  diocese  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp.  Nine  triumphal  arches,  in  Latin,  Byzantine,  Romanesque,  Classic, 
and  Gothic  architecture,  were  erected  over  the  streets  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  dedi- 
cated to  the  metropolitan  dioceses  of  North  America  ;  an  imposing  procession  passed 
under  them  and  into  the  Cathedral,  which  was  endowed  on  that  day  with  the  nan.e 
and  privileges  of  a  basilica;  and  at  evening  the  city  was  illuminated,  at  a  cost  of 
$30,000.  In  the  pageant  was  borne  the  ancient  flag  of  Ticonderoga  (Le  Drajmau  de 
Cariilon),  which  floated  over  Montcalm's  Tictorioas  anay  when  he  defeated  Aber* 


QUEBEC. 


HauU  68.      275 


lesperste 

;li8h  lost 
onipo8ed 
earn,  La 
ad  u  few 

entadour 
■ch  Levi) 
loping  to 
['lains  of 
rled  back 
aid  close 
om  three 
from  182 
Dd.  The 
of  Paris, 
zen  coun- 
sgislature 
dgiis  bad 
ichept  of 
[  resulted 
ed  in  the 

d  by  Gen. 
besiegers 
ight  guns 
iered  and 
nan  Arnold 
Etiver,  and 
The  Mon- 
regulars, 
jre  forced 
Linded  and 
and  Con- 
»r  the  two 
Ite  before 
led  across 
sat  masses 
all  proba- 
nen  by  at- 
ory,  would 
at  one  of 
,  and  fired 
iny  of  his 
)ke  up  in 
men,  who 
men  were 
f  over  the 
in  Wolfe's 
knew  the 
capital  of 
the  found- 
;va8  nearly 
i  is  still  its 

athusiastio 

celebrated 

lie,  Classic, 

,  and  dodi- 

Kion  pasEed 

the  nan.e 

a  cost  of 

Drapnau  de 

ated  Aber* 


erombie  oa  Lake  Ghamplain  (July  8, 1768),  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  esteemed 
trophies  of  Quebec. 

The  annals  of  the  Church  contain  no  grander  chapter  than  that  which  records 
the  career  of  the  Canadian  Jesuits.  Unarmed  and  alone,  they  passed  forth  from 
Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  traversed  all  the  wide  region  between  Labrador  and  the 
remote  West,  bravely  meeting  death  in  its  most  liugering  and  horrible  forms  at 
the  hands  of  the  vindictive  savages  whom  they  came  to  bleds.  Their  achievements 
and  their  fate  filled  the  world  with  amazement.  Even  Puritan  New  England, 
proudly  and  sternly  jealous  of  her  religious  liberty,  received  their  envoy  with 
honors;  Boston,  Plymouth,  and  Salem  alike  became  his  gracious  hosts;  and  the 
Apostle  Eliot  entertained  him  at  his  Roxbury  parsonage,  and  urged  him  to  remain. 

'^To  the  Jesuits  the  atmosphere  of  Quebec  was  wellnigh  celestial.  'In  the  cli- 
mate of  New  France,'  they  write,  '  one  learns  perfectly  to  seek  only  one  God,  to 
have  no  desire  but  God,  no  purpose  but  for  God.'  And  again  :  '  To  live  in  New 
France  is  in  truth  to  live  in  the  bosom  of  God.'  '  If,'  adds  Le  Jeuue, '  any  one  of 
those  who  die  in  this  country  goes  to  perdition,  I  think  he  Mill  be  doubly  guilty.' " 

"^  Meanwhile  from  Old  France  to  New  came  succors  and  reinforcements  to  the 
missions  of  the  forest.  More  Jesuits  crossed  the  sea  to  urge  on  the  work  of  conver- 
sion. These  were  no  stem  exiles,  seeking  on  barbarous  shores  an  asylum  for  a  per- 
secuted faith.  Rank,  wealth,  power,  and  royalty  itself  smiled  on  their  enterprise, 
and  bade  them  God-speeJ.  Yet,  withal,  a  fervor  more  intense,  a  self-abnegation 
more  complete,  a  self-devotion  more  constant  and  enduring,  will  scarcely  find  its 

record  on  the  pages  of  human  history It  was  her  nobler  and  purer  part  that 

gave  life  to  the  early  missions  of  New  France.  That  gloomy  wilderness,  thos^ 
hordes  of  savages,  had  nothing  to  tompt  the  ambitious,  the  proud,  the  grasping,  or 
the  indolent.  Obscure  toil,  solitude,  privation,  hardship,  and  death  were  to  be  the 
missionary's  portion 

*'  The  Jesuits  had  borne  all  that  the  human  frame  seems  capable  of  bearing. 
They  had  escaped  as  by  miracle  from  torture  and  death.  Did  their  zeal  flag  or  their 
courage  fiul  ?  A  fervor  intense  and  unquenchable  urged  them  on  to  more  distant 
and  more  deadly  ventures.  The  beings,  so  near  to  mortal  sympathies,  so  human, 
yet  so  divine,  in  whom  their  faith  impersonated  and  dramatize'!  the  great  principles 
of  Christian  faith,  —  virgins,  saints,  and  angels,  —  hovered  over  them,  and  held  be- 
fore their  raptured  sight  crowns  of  glory  and  garlands  of  immortal  bliss.  They 
burned  to  do,  to  suffer,  and  to  die  ;  and  now,  from  out  a  living  martyrdom,  they 
turned  their  heroic  gaze  towards  an  horizon  dark  with  perils  yet  more  appalling,  and 
saw  in  hope  the  day  when  they  should  bear  the  cross  into  the  blood-stiiined  dens  of 
the  Iroquois. 

In  1647,  when  the  powerful  and  bloodthirsty  Iroquois  were  sweeping  over  Can- 
ada in  all  directions,  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuits  wrote:  "  Do  not  imagine  that  the 
rage  of  the  Iroquois,  and  the  loss  of  many  Christians  and  many  catechumens,  can 
bring  to  naught  the  mystery  of  the  cross  of  Jesus  Christ  and  the  efficacy  of  his 
blood.  We  shall  die ;  we  shall  be  captured,  burned,  butehered :  be  it  so.  Those 
who  die  in  their  beds  do  not  always  die  the  best  death.  I  see  none  of  our  company 
cast  down.  On  the  contrary,  they  ask  leave  to  go  up  to  the  Hurons,  and  some  of 
them  protest  that  the  fires  of  the  Iroquois  are  one  of  their  motives  for  the  journey." 
*'  The  iron  Br^beuf,  the  gentle  Garnier,  the  all-enduring  Jogues,  the  enthusiastic 
Chaumonot,  Lalemant,  Le  Mercier,  Chatelain,  Daniel,  Pijart,  Rogueneau,  Du  Peron, 
Poncet,  Le  Moyne,  —  one  and  all  bore  themselves  with  a  tranquil  boldness,  which 

amazed  the  Indians  and  enforced  their  respect When  we  look  for  the  result 

of  these  missions,  we  soon  become  aware  that  the  infiuence  of  tlic  French  and  the 
Jesuits  extended  far  beyond  the  circle  of  converts.  It  eventually  modified  and 
softened  the  manners  of  many  unconverted  tribes.  In  the  wars  of  the  next  century 
we  do  not  often  find  those  example''  of  diabolic  atrocity  with  which  the  earlier  an- 
nals are  crowded.  The  savage  burned  his  enemies  alive,  it  is  true,  but  he  seldom 
ate  them ;  neither  did  he  torment  them  with  the  same  deliberation  and  persistency. 
He  was  a  savage  still,  but  not  so  often  a  devil.*'    (Parkman.) 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  study  more  closely  this  sublime  episode  in  the  New- 
World  history  may  consult  the  brilliant  and  picturesque  historical  narratives  of  Mr. 
Francis  Parkman  :  "  The  Jesuits  of  North  America,"  "  The  Pioneers  of  France  in 
the  New  World,"  and  "  La  Salle  and  the  Discovery  of  the  Great  West."  LeMoine's 
"  Quebec,  Past  and  Present,"  and  '  Picturesque  Quebec,"  should  also  be  read. 


in 


<■'. 


276      Route  69. 


BEAUPORT. 


,!' 


69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec. 

This  district  Ih  funiud  for  itH  beuuty,  and  in  flilod  with  objrctfl  of  intercut  to  the 
tourlHt.  Tliu  suburban  villuf^ttH  can  !•(>  viniti'd  by  pedestrian  tours  ;  but  in  that 
ca««  it  i8  bust  to  cut  uiT  coniuiuiiicatiun  witli  tliu  city,  and  to  k\w«  p  around  on  tlie 
great  curve  whicli  includes  tlic  cliicf  ))oints  of  attraction.  Tlu'  villu^i^c  inns  furnish 
poor  accouunodations.  i^ucli  a  wall\ing  tour  sliould  be  taken  only  after  a  8ea>on  of 
dry  weatiier,  else  the  roads  will  be  found  very  muddy.  Kut  all  the  world  ffiH-n  about 
In  carringcA  here,  ard  a  mlMie  an*l  ilriver  <»an  be  hired  at  vcr\  low  rates.  The 
quickest  route  to  .>h)utuioienci  aud  ^t.  Aune  is  by  the  Quebec,  Moutuioreuci  and 
Charlevoix  Uuiiwa^ . 

''I  don't  know  whether  I  cared  more  for  Qut'bec  or  the  beautiful  little  villages  in 
the  country  all  about  it.  The  whole  land-cape  looks  just  like  a  dream  of  '  Kvan- 
geline.'  ....  But  if  we  are  condn^  to  the  grand  and  beautiful,  why,  there  is  no 
direction  in  which  you  can  look  about  Quebec  without  f-ei-ing  it ;  and  it  is  always 
mixed  up  with  something  so  fandliar  and  homelike  that  my  heart  warms  to  it." 
(UoWKLLS^s  A  Chance.  Acquaintance.) 

**The  Falls  of  Montmorcnoi  are  7  M.  from  the  Dorchester  Bridge, 
which  is  about  1  M.  from  the  U|)per- Fovvii  Market  Square.  Tlie  route 
usually  taken  leads  down  Palace  St.  and  by  the  (Jueon's  Fuel-Yard  (see 
page  271)  and  St.  Roch's  Church.  As  the  bridge  is  being  crossed,  the 
Marine  Hospital  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  shipyards  of  St. 
Roch's  Ward  and  the  suburb  of  St.  Charles.  The  road  is  broad  and  firm, 
and  leads  across  a  fertile  plain,  with  fine  retrospective  views.  The  Benu- 
jxyi't  Lunatic  Asylum  is  soon  reached,  near  wliicii  is  the  villa  of  Glenalla. 
The  as^'lum  formerly  consisted  of  two  large  buildings,  one  for  each  sex; 
but  the  female  department  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  January,  1876,  and 
several  of  its  inmates  were  burnt  with  it.  Beauport  is  3^-5  M.  from 
Quebec,  and  is  a  long-drawn-out  village  of  1,300  inhabitants,  with  a  tall 
and  stately  church  whose  twin  spires  are  seen  from  a  great  distance. 
There  are  several  flour  and  barley  mills  in  the  parish,  and  a  considerable 
lumber  business  is  done.  The  seigniory  was  founded  in  1634  by  the  Sieur 
Giflard,  and  along  its  plains  was  some  of  the  heaviest  fighting  of  the  war 
of  the  Conquest  of  Canada. 

It  is  "  in  that  part  of  Canada  which  was  the  first  to  be  settled,  and  where  the  face 
of  the  counti'y  and  the  people  have  undergone  the  least  change  from  the  beginning, 
where  the  influence  of  the  States  and  of  Europe  is  least  felt,  and  the  inhabitants  see 
little  or  nothing  of  the  world  over  the  walls  of  Quel)ec."  The  road  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Joachim  is  lined  by  a  continuous  succession  of  the  quaint  and  solid  little  Cana- 
dian houses  of  whitewashed  stone,  placed  at  an  angle  with  the  street  in  order  to 
face  the  south.  The  farms  are  consequently  remarkably  narrow  (.■••onietimes  but  a 
few  yards  wide  and  ^  M.  long),  and  the  country  is  bristling  with  fences  In  1064 
the  French  king  forbade  that  the  colonists  should  make  any  more  clearings,  "  except 
one  next  to  another"  ;  but  in  1745  he  was  obliged  to  order  that  their  farms  should 
be  not  less  than  H  arpents  wide.  These  narrow  domains  arose  from  the  social  char- 
acter of  the  people,  who  were  thus  brought  close  together  ;  from  their  need  of  con- 
centrjition  as  a  defence  against  the  Indians;  and  from  the  subdivision  of  estates  by 
inheritjtnce.  The  Latin  Catholicism  of  the  villagers  is  shown  by  roadside  crosses 
rising  here  and  there  along  the  way. 

So  late  as  1827  Montmoienci  County  (wliich  is  nearly  as  large  as  Massachusetts) 
had  but  6  shops,  30  artisans,  2  schools,  5  churches  (all  Catliolic),  and  5  vessels  (with 
an  aggregate  of  59  tons).  There  has  been  but  little  change  since.  In  1861,  out  of 
11,136  inhabitants  in  the  county,  10,708  were  of  French  origin,  of  whom  but  a  few 
score  understand  the  English  language. 


MONTMORENCI   FALLS.         HouU69.      277 


M.  Romoau  (^^La  France  nitx  Colonies''^)  has  proved,  nfU'r  inuoh  labor  and  re- 
soarch,  that  tho  roloni.sts  who  sottU^il  the  ()ot«  do  Hi-aupri^  nnil  HtMiiiporf  wore  from 
the  uuciont  French  province  of  \a\  I'erche  ;  iuliiiii(;  tliiit  Mdiifreal  wiw  colonixeil  from 
tho  province  of  Anjoii,  tlu;  Isle  of  OrleaiiH  from  I'oitou,  ami  tiuebec,  Trow  Rivieres, 
and  tho  Uichelieu  valley  from  Normandy. 

Bcvond  tho  cliurcli  of  Boiuiport  tin;  road  c-diitiinu's  past  tho  narrow  do- 
mninson  cithor  hand,  and  runs  alon^thosicUiof  tho  IlalditnantI  estate.  Tho 
Montmorent'i  River  is  crossed,  and  tlie  traveller  stops  at  tho  Muntm&i'enci 
Restaurant^  where  lunch  may  be  ohtained.  At  this  point  admission  is 
given  to  the  grounds  about  the  Falls  (foe,  25c.);  and  the  tourist  should 
visit  not  only  the  pavilion  near  tho  brink  (which  connnands  a  charming 
view  of  Quebec),  but  also  tho  small  platform  lower  down  (and  reached  by 
a  long  stairway),  whence  tho  best  front-view  Is  obtained.  The  descent  to 
tho  basin  below  is  ditricult,  and  will  hardly  repay  the  labor  of  tho  return. 
A  short  distance  below  tho  Falls  is  the  confluence  of  tho  Montmorenci 
with  tho  St.  Lawrence,  and  immense  saw-mills  are  located  there,  em|)lo,v- 
ing  7  -  800  men  and  cutting  up  2,500  logs  a  day.  Near  tho  Falls  is  Ualili- 
marul  House,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria's 
father;  and  on  the  clllfs  by  the  river  aro  seen  tho  towers  of  a  suspension' 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  nto  the 
fatal  abyss  below.  At  tho  foot  of  these  Falls  an  immense  icc-cono  (some- 
times 200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every  winter,  and  here  the  favorite  sport  of 
tobogganning  is  carried  on.  I'he  *  Natural  Steps  nre  lij  M.  above  tho 
Falls,  where  the  Montmorenci  is  contracted  into  a  narrow  limit  and  rushes 
down  with  great  velocity,  having  cut  its  bed  down  through  successive 
strata  and  leaving  stop-liko  terraces  on  either  side.  Fine  specimens  of 
trilobites  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

Tho  road  running  on  beyond  tho  Montmorenci  Hestaurant  leads  to  Ange 
Gardion  and  St.  Anno  (see  Route  70).  Tho  views  on  tho  way  back  to 
Quebec  are  very  beautiful. 

The  old  French  habitans  call  the  Montmorenci  Fall,  La  Var.he  ("  The  Cow"),  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  its  foaminj;  waters  to  milk.  Others  attribute  this 
name  to  the  noise  like  the  lowing  of  a  cow  which  is  n>aile  by  the  Fall  during  tt»o 
prevalence  of  certain  winds.  Innnediately  about  the  basin  and  along  the  Mont- 
morenci River,  many  severe  actions  took  place  during  Wolfe's  siege  of  Quelxjc. 
This  river  was  for  a  time  the  location  of  the  picket-lines  of  the  British  and  French 
armies. 

'*  It  is  a  very  simple  and  noble  fall,  and  leaves  nothing  to  bo  desired It  is  a 

splendid  introduction  to  tho  scenery  of  Quebec.  Instead  of  an  artificial  fountain  in 
its  square,  Quebec  has  this  magnificent  natural  waterfall  to  adorn  one  side  of  ita 
harbor."     (Thorkau.) 

"The  effect  on  tho  beholder  is  most  delightful.  The  river,  at  some  distance, 
seems  suspended  in  the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contmsted,  as  it  is, 
with  the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  in- 
terest. It  has  been  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  suspended  in  the  air ;  this  com- 
parison does  justice  to  the  delicacy,  but  not  to  the  grandeur  of  tho  cataract '"    (8a/- 

UMAN.) 

"  A  ."afo  platform  le.ids  along  tlie  rocks  to  a  pavilion  on  a  point  at  the  side  of  the 
foil,  and  on  a  level  with  it.  Hero  the  gulf,  nearly  300  ft.  deep,  with  its  walls  of 
chocolate-covered  earth,  and  its  patches  of  emerald  herbage,  wet  with  eternal  spray, 
opens  to  the  8t.  Lawrence.    Moutmoi'euci  is  one  of  tlie  loveliest  waterlaUs.    la  ita 


278      Route  69. 


INDIAN   LORETTE. 


general  chamcter  it  bean  «mi«  reMtnhIanr«  to  the  IMnne-Vachp,  \n  RwUserland, 
whioli,  how««v«T,  in  much  Miialler.  The  w»t<>r  Jh  i^now-whit*',  tliih'd,  in  the  heaviest 
uortioiiH  <»f  the  fiili,  with  a  Kofl  yellow,  like  that  i»f  raw  nilk .  In  fart,  Itntken  aw  It  it 
l)y  the  irn'Kiilar  Mg*'  of  the  rork.  it  n>inln<l^  one  of  niaswM  of  nilken,  tloHwy  Hkeins, 
oontinually  overlapping  one  another  an  they  fall.  At  tlw  liofloni,  <laNh«-(l  upon  a 
pile  of  MX'kB,  It  HhtM)t)*  far  out  in  Ktar-llke  ra<iii  of  Npray,  wliirli  share  tlie  regular 
thmh  or  puliation  of  tlie  falling  n)a,Ms«'H.  Th»'  etlj^es  of  the  fall  flutter  out  ir»to 
liu'e-like  |M)lutrt  and  fringeH,  whii-li  dlHHolve  iato  ^nuu^  an  tliey  denceirj."  ^KataRD 
Tat  LOR.) 

"  The  Falls  of  Montinorcnri  prewnt  the  nioHt  nii^feHtic  npertncle  In  all  thin  vicin- 
ity, and  even  in  the  I'rovince.  The  river  in  ItH  courw  throuKli  a  country  which  is 
covered  with  an  almost  unbroken  toreHt,  Iium  an  iiu-onsidvralile  flow  of  watiT  except 
when  HwelliHl  by  tlie  melting  of  the  8now  or  the  autumnal  rains,  until  it  ntachex  tliu 
pie4'ipicM.  where  It  Is  8-  10  tathoniH  wide.  VtM  bed.  iM-Ing  inclined  bi'fore  arriving  at 
*hiH  point,  giveH  a  gn'at  vehn-lty  to  the  current,  uliicli,  pushed  on  to  tlie  verge  of  a 
(terpendicular  rock,  forms  a  large  slu'ct  of  wat^'r  of  a  whiteness  and  a  fh-ecy  ai>|)ear- 
anco  which  resembleM  snow,  in  fi'Uing  in  a  chasm  among  the  riK'ks  [261]  ft.  t)elow. 
At  the  bottom  tlu>re  riseH  an  innnense  foam  in  undulating  miutw^s,  which,  wlien 
the  t«un  lights  up  tlu<ir  brilliant  prismatic  colors,  produces  an  inconceivably  neuuti- 
ta\  e(fe<;t/'    (liuuciiKTTK.) 

•'  For  those  who  go  from  Montmonmci  to  Quel)ec,  the  time  to  be  on  the  rood  l« 
about  sunset.  Tlie  city,  climbing  up  from  the  great  river  to  the  heights,  on  which 
Btttuds  thec^uttlo,  looks  cs|HK'ially  iHMiutiful  In  the  warm  light  that  then  falls  full  upon 
It,  and  the  level  niys,  striking  on  tlie  quaint  old  metal-slieathed  roofs  and  on  all  the 
westward-facing  windows,  liglit  up  the  town  witli  a  diamond-like  sparkling  of  won- 
derful brilliancy."    (White's  Sketches  from  Atnerica.) 

*  Indian  Lorette  (small  inn)  is  9  M.  from  Queboc,  by  the  Little  Kiver 
liosid.  It  is  un  ancient  village  of  the  Hurons  ("  Catlioiics  and  allies  of 
France"),  and  the  present  inhabitants  are  a  qniet  and  religious  people  in 
whom  the  Indian  blood  predominates,  though  it  is  never  unmixed.  The 
men  hunt  and  fish,  the  women  make  bead-work  and  moccasons,  and  the 
boys  earn  pennies  by  dexterous  archery.  There  are  60  Huron  families 
liere,  and  their  quaint  little  church  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  population 
of  the  parish  is  3,500,  and  the  district  is  devoted  to  farming.  The 
*  Lorette  Falls  are  near  the  mill,  and  are  very  pretty. 

The  best  description  of  Lorette  Is  given  in  Howells'a  A  Chance  Acquaintance 
.  '^'"ip  XIII  )»  from  which  the  following  note  is  extracted  :  "  The  road  to  Lorette  ia 
tnrough  St.  John's  Gate,  down  into  the  outlying  meadows  and  rye-fields,  where, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  swift  St.  Oharlcs,  it  tinally  rises  at  Lorette  above  the  level 
of  the  citadel.  It  is  a  lonelier  road  than  that  to  Montuiorenci,  and  the  scattering 
cottages  upon  It  have  not  the  well-to-do  prettlness,  the  operatic  repair,  of  stone-built 
Beauport.    But  they  are  charming,  nevertheless,  and  the  people  seem  to  be  remoter 

from  niodern  intiuences By  and  by  they  came  to  Jeune-Lorette,  an  almost 

ideally  pretty  hamlet,  bordering  the  roatl  on  either  liand  with  galleried  and  balconied 
little  houses,  from  which  the  people  bowed  to  them  as  they  passed,  and  piously  en- 
closing  in  its  midst  the  village  chun'h  and  churchyard.  They  soon  after  reached 
Lorette  itself,  which  they  might  easily  have  known  for  an  Indian  town  by  its  un- 
kempt air,  and  the  irregular  attitudes  in  which  tlie  shabby  cabins  loungt^d  along 

the  lanes  that  wandered  through  it The  cascade,  with  two  or  three  euccef^sive 

leaps  above  the  road,  plunks  headlong  down  a  steep,  crescent-shaped  slope,  and 
hides  its  foamy  whiteness  in  the  dark-foliaged  ravine  below.  It  is  a  wonder  of 
graceful  motion,  of  iridescent  lights  and  delicious  shadows ;  a  shape  of  loveliness  that 
seems  instinct  with  a  conscious  life." 

Charles  Marshall  says,  in  his  "  Canadian  Dominion  "  (London,  1871) :  *'  For  pic- 
turesque beauty  the  environs  of  Quebec  vie  with  those  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
....  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  Lorette  cascades  would  give  fame  and  for- 
tune  to  any  spot  in  England  or  France ;  yet  here,  dwarfed  by  grander  waters,  they 
remain  compaiatiyely  unknown." 


CHARLESBOURQ. 


Route  C9.       279 


When  the  French  came  to  Canad*  the  Huroni  were  a  powerful  nation  on  the 
*horea  of  LakoH  Huron  anJ  Simcoe,  with  82  villaKM  and  20  -  <K),000  inhabitants. 
Th«y  re<'»'lv«Ml  th«>  .l«»Mult  niiHMionnriim  |(la<lly,  and  wore  H|H'«'<illy  oonvi'rt^Ml  to  i-hriH> 
tltmity.  Many  of  thi*ni  wort;  tlioir  iiair  in  hriHtlinK  ri«iKi*s,  whunrc  nTtiiin  afton- 
iHhcd  Fn-nrlinH-n,  on  first  H«>«;iiiK  fiu-ni,  (>xrlHini*>(i  "  (^urUrs  hurf% '  "  (*'  Wiiat  Inian*' 
h<M(lM  I  ")  and  Mi«*  niinii'  of  Huron  KupplunN'd  Micir  pro|i«-r  tKh'of  Oiieni/utar  IVyan- 
(/ot.  Till)  lro(|UoiH,  or  Kiv««  NationN  (of  Ni<w  York),  worM  tlirir  mortal  fo4>H,  and  aft«>r 
many  yuarM  of  most  liarWiirouM  warfare,  Hn<-ci'«>dud  in  HtorniinK  tlio  ('liriHtian  Huron 
townH  (»f  St.  .losopli,  St.  I^iiaco,  and  St.  Louis.  Tlic  nutiun  was  aniiiliiiat«-d  :  a  f«-w 
of  ItH  |K>opl<t  llutl  to  tliu  far  WoHt,  and  art;  now  known  ar«  tliH  Wyandot^  ;  niultituden 
W('r«!  niadtt  siaveH  among  tlio  lr(M(UoiH  villaK«M  ;  l(),iliM)  vivrv,  killed  in  tutttlo  or  in  tlni 
Hul)juKatvd  townH  ;  and  tliu  mournful  roninant  tied  to  (^ui^lxtr  'undrcdH  of  tlieni 
wore  Hw«-ptaway  from  tliu  IhI«  of  Orieunn  t>y  a  diring  lr(M|Ui  d  :  tli«  durvivorrt 

ennim(H>d  inidur  tlie  Kunti  of  tliu  fort  for  10  }<MirM,  tlion  moved  t*  Foy  ;  and,  aiM)ut 
tho  year  irtTd,  thin  ft><>lilo  fmgmunt  of  tli»  great  Huron  nation  r  ti^Ml  at  Anrienne 
Lorette.  It  wiu«  under  the  care  of  tlie  Jesuit  ('haunionot,  wlio,  wliilo  a  mere  )>oy. 
hud  Htulen  a  Hmall  sum  of  money  and  tied  from  France  into  Lomimnly.  In  flltli  anu 
poverty  ho  begged  IUh  way  to  Ancona,  and  thence  to  lioretto,  wliere.  at  tiie  Holy 
IIouHe,  lie  tiad  an  angelic  vision.  He  went  to  Homo,  b«4;amo  a  Jesuit,  and  ex|>eri- 
enced  another  nurarlu  fro>>;  Lonitto;  afti>r  whieli  lie  {NUUied  to  the  Huron  miHHion 
in  Canada,  where  ho  was  delivered  from  martyrdom  by  tho  aid  of  St.  Micluiol.  He 
erected  at  Aneienno  Ijorette  a  ehapol  in  exact  fiut-simile  of  the  Holy  House  at  Ix>- 
retto ;  and  here  he  claimed  that  many  minicles  were  perfonned.  In  l^KiT  the 
Ilurons  moved  to  New  Lorette,  "a  wild  spot,  covered  with  tlie  primitive  forest, 
and  seamed  i)y  a  deep  and  tortuous  ravine,  where  the  St  (Miarles  foams,  white  aH  a 
Hnow-drift,  over  the  bliu-k  ledgoH,  and  where  the  sunshine  struggles  through  matted 
boughs  of  the  pine  and  the  tir,  to  bosk  for  brief  momontH  on  tho  mofwy  ntcks  or 
flash  on  the  iuirrying  waters.  On  a  plat^Miu  beside  tlio  torn-nt,  another  clui(>el  was 
built  to  Our  f.i>tdy,  and  another  Huron  town  spmng  up;  and  here  to  this  day,  the 
tourist  flndti  the  n.'mnant  of  a  lost  people,  harmlesM  weaverH  of  l>aHketH  and  ficwers 
of  moccasonR,the  Huron  blood  fast  bleaching  out  of  tliem,>ifl,  witli  every  generation, 
they  mingle  and  fade  awuy  in  the  French  population  around.''     (Parkman.  ) 

Vinitors  to  Lorette  iiro  rwominended  to  return  to  Quebco  by  another 
rond  from  that  on  which  they  went  out.  Anclenne  Lorette  may  be  reached 
from  this  point,  and  so  may  the  lakes  of  Beauport  and  St.  Charles.  Ij 
days'  journey  to  the  N.  is  Lac  Rond,  famous  for  its  fine  himtinp  and  fishing. 

Charlesbourg  (Huot's  boardin<^-house)  is  4  M.  fmm  (Quebec,  on  afar- 
viewing  ridge,  and  is  clustered  about  a  venerable  convent  nnd  old  church 
(with  copies  of  the  Last  Communion  of  St.  Jerome  and  the  Sistine  Ma- 
donna over  its  altars).  It  is  the  chef-lieu  of  the  seigniory  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Angos,  and  its  products  are  lumber  and  oats.  To  this  point  (then 
known  as  Bourg  Royal)  retired  the  inhabitants  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  in 
1759,  when  ordered  by  Montcalm  to  fall  back  before  the  British.  They 
were  2,500  in  number,  and  were  led  by  their  cur^s.  Pleasant  roads  lead 
from  Charlesbourg  to  Lorette,  Lake  St.  Charles,  Lake  Beauport,  and  Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake  St.  Charles  is  11  M.  from  Quebec,  and  6  M.  from  Lorette.  It  Is 
4  M.  long,  and  its  waters  are  very  clear  and  deep.  Tho  red  trout  of  this 
lake  are  of  delicate  flavor.     There  is  a  remarkable  echo  from  the  shores. 

"  On  arriving  at  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  the  spectator  is  delighted  by  the  beauty 

and  picturesque  wildnesa  of  its  banks Trees  grow  immediately  on  the  borders 

of  the  water,  which  is  indented  by  several  points  advancing  into  it,  and  forming  lit- 
tle bays.    The  lofty  hills  which  suddenly  rise  towards  the  N.,  in  shapes  singular 
and  diversified,  are  overlooked  by  mountaius  which  exalt,  beyond  them,  their  iuor« 
.  distant  summits.'*    (Hbriot.) 


ij 


IS 


if 


H 


280      Route  69. 


CHATEAU  BIGOT. 


Ch&teau  Bigot  is  about  7  M.  from  Quebec,  by  way  of  Charlesbourg, 
where  the  traveller  turns  to  the  r.  around  the  cliurch,  and  rides  for  2  M. 
along  a  ridge  which  alVords  charming  views  of  the  city  on  the  r.  *'  It  is  a 
lovely  road  out  to  Chateau  Bigot.  First  you  drive  through  the  ancient 
suburbs  of  the  Lower  Town,  and  then  you  mount  the  smooth,  hard  high- 
way, between  pretty  country-houses,  towards  tlie  village  of  Charlesbourg, 
while  Quebec  shows,  to  your  casual  backward  glance,  like  a  wondrous 
painted  scene,  with  the  spires  and  lofty  roofs  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  the 
long,  irregular  wall  wandering  on  the  verge  of  theclifl";  then  the  thronging 
gables  and  chimneys  of  St.  Roch,  and  again  many  spires  and  convent 
walls."  The  ruins  of  the  Chateau  are  only  reached  after  driving  for  some 
distance  through  a  narrow  wheel-track,  half  overgrown  with  foliage.  Tliere 
remain  the  gables  and  division-wall,  hi  thick  masonry,  w  ith  a  deep  cellar, 
outside  of  which  are  heaps  of  debris,  over  which  grow  alders  and  lilacs. 
The  ruins  are  in  a  cleared  space  over  a  little  brook  where  trout  are 
found;  and  over  it  is  the  low  and  forest-covered  ridge  of  La  Montnyne  ties 
Ormea. 

This  land  was  in  tlie  Fiefrfe  la  Tn'in't4,  which  was  granted  about  theyoar  1640  to 
M  Denis,  of  La  Rocholle  The  ch.teau  was  built  for  liis  fi-uJal  niai).»i(>n  by  the 
Royal  Inteiidnnt  Talon,  Ilaron  dos  Islets,  and  was  afterwards  occuiiicd  by  the  last 
Royal  Intendant,  M.  Bigot,  a  dissolute  and  licentious  French  fatrap,  who  stole 
32,000,000  from  the  treasury.  The  lefjjend  tells  that  Bigot  used  this  huilding  for  a 
hunthig-lodge  and  place  of  revels,  and  that  once,  while  pursuing  a  hear  an.ong  tlie 
hills,  he  got  lost,  and  was  guided  back  to  the  chateau  hy  a  lovely  Algoii<{uin  maiden 
whom  he  had  met  in  the  forest.  She  reuuiined  in  this  building  lor  a  long  time,  in 
a  luxuriou-i  houdoir,  and  was  visited  frequently  by  the  Intendant  ;  but  one  night 
she  was  assassinated  by  some  unknown  fierson,  — either  M.  bigot's  wife,  or  her  own 
mother,  avenging  the  dishonor  to  her  tribe  (see  "  rhTit^'au  Bigot,"  hy  .J.  M.  LeMoine, 
Bold  at  the  Quebec  bookstores  for  10c.  ;  also  llowells's  A  Chance  Acquaintance, 
Chap.  XII. ). 

Sillery  (or  St.  Colomh)  is  3  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Grand  All^e  and 
the  Cap-Rouge  Road  (see  page  270).  After  passing  Wolfe's  Monument, 
the  road  leads  across  x\w  Plains  <>f  Ab  rah  urn  y  on  which  were  fought  the 
sanguinary  battles  of  1759  and  1700.  Sillery  is  a  parish  of  3,000  inhab- 
itants, on  whose  river  front  are  17  coves,  where  most  of  the  lumber  of 
Quebec  is  guarded.  The  Convent  of  .J  i$hs- Ma  via  is  a  new  building  of  great 
si/.e  and  imposing  architecture;  opposite  which  is  the  handsome  Gothic 
school-house  whiiii  was  given  to  this  parish  by  IMshop  Mountain.  In  the 
vicinityof  Sillery  are  several  fine  villas,  amid  ornatjiental  grounds:  March- 
7nont,  once  the  homo  of  Sir  .John  Harvey  and  Hishoj)  Stewart;  Spencer 
Wood,  "the  most  beautiful  domain  of  Canada,"  with  a  park  of  80  acres, 
fonnorly  the  home  of  the  Karl  of  Klgiii  and  other  governors,  now  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  (»t'  the  Trovince  of  t^uebec  (S  10,000 
is  voted  annually  for  its  maintenance  by  the  Legislature);  WvodJieUl^ 
founded  by  the  Bishop  of  Sainos;  Spencer  Grange,  where  lives  J.  M. 
LeMoine,  the  author  and  anti(juarian;  Bardjield,  Bishop  Mountain's 
former  homo;    Cataracouy,   where  the  British  princes,  Albert  Edward 


CAP  ROUGE. 


Route  69,     281 


and  Alfred,  sojourned;  Benmore,  Col.  Rliodes's  estate;  and  several 
others.  The  beautiful  cemetery  of  Mount  llerinon,  which  was  laid  out 
by  Major  Douglas,  the  planner  of  Greenwood  Ccnietery,  is  iu  this  vicin- 
ity, and  is  adorned  by  the  graceful  chapd  of  St.  Michael.  The  people 
of  Siller}'  have  erected  a  n)onunient,  sustaining  a  mar- 

ble cross,  near  the  place  where  Fatlicr  Masse  was  buried,  in  1(>4(),  in  the 
ancient  (Church  of  St.  Michael  (which  has  long  since  disappeared).  The 
old  Jesuit  Resulence  still  remaii;s,  and  is  a  massive  building  of  stone. 

The  Chevalier  Noel  Brulart  dc  Sillery,  Knight  of  Malta,  and  fonnerly  a  hij?h  offi- 
cer  at  the  court  of  Queen  Marie  de  Medicis,  having  renounced  the  world,  devoted  his 
vast  revenues  to  religious  purposes.  Among  his  endowments  was  the  foundation  of 
a  Christian  Algonquin  vill.ige  just  ahove  Quebec,  which  the  .lesuits  niiincd  Sillery, 
in  his  honor  Here  the  Ahenaquis  of  Maine  learned  the  elements  of  ('atholicisni, 
which  was  aft<'rw»rds  luifolded  to  them  in  their  villages  on  the  Kennelwc,  by  Father 
Druilletes.  This  worthy  old  clergyman  followed  thcin  in  their  grand  hunts  about 
Moosehead  Lake  and  the  northern  forests,  "  with  toil  too  great  to  buy  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world,  hut  very  small  as  a  price  for  tlie  Kingdom  of  Heaven  "'  From  the 
inission-house  at  Sillery  departed  .logues,  Hrt'beuf,  Lilemant,  and  many  other  heroic 
missionaries  and  martyrs  of  the  primitive  ('anadian  Church.  ''  It  was  the  scene  of 
miracles  and  martyrdoms,  and  marvels  of  many  kimls,  and  the  centre  of  the  mis- 
sionary efforts  among  the  Indiins.  huleed,  fesv  events  of  the  pi<turesque  early  his- 
tory of  Quebec  left  it  untouchetl ;  and  it  is  worthy  to  be  seen,  no  less  for  the  wild 
beauty  of  the  spot  than  for  its  heroical  memories.  About  a  league  from  the  city, 
where  the  irregular  wall  of  rock  on  which  Quebec  is  built  recedes  from  the  river, 
and  a  grassy  space  stretches  between  the  tide  and  the  foot  of  the  woody  steep,  the 
old  mission  and  the  Indian  village  once  stood  ;  and  to  t'.iis  day  there  yet  stands  the 
stalwart  frame  of  the  first  .lesuit  Kesideix  e.  modcniizid,  of  course,  and  turned  to 
secular  uses,  but  firm  as  of  old,  and  good  for  a  century  to  come.  All  around  is  a 
world  of  lunjber,  and  rafts  of  vast  extent  cover  the  face  of  the  wat<'rs  in  the  ample 
covi!,  —  one  of  many  that  indent  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  careless  village 
straggles  along  the  roadside  and  tlie  river's  margin  :  huge  lumber-ships  arc  loading 
for  Europe  in  the  stream  ;  a  town  shines  out  of  the  woods  on  the  opposite  shore ; 
nothing  but  a  friendly  climate;  is  needed  to  make  tins  one  of  the  most  charming 
scenes  the  heart  could  imagine." 

Cap  Rouge  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  road  which 
passes  through  Sillery.  It  is  a  village  of  800  inhabitan's,  with  a  timber- 
trade  nnd  a  large  pottery;  nnd  is  coimocted  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily 
stages.  The  cape  forms  the  W.  ind  of  the  grent  plateau  of  Quebec,  which, 
according  to  the  geologists,  was  formerly  an  island,  around  w  liich  the  St. 
Lawrence  flowed  down  the  St.  Charles  valley.  Reyond  Cap  Rouge  are  sev- 
eral very  interesting  villages:  St.  Augustin,  with  its  venerable  church; 
Deschambault  ;  aiul  other  old  French  parishes.  The  mansion  of  Itedc'yfft 
IS  on  the  cape,  and  is  near  the  site  where  Jaques  Cartier  and  Roberval 
passed  the  winters  of  1511  and  \h\2.  On  the  same  point  batteries  were 
erected  by  Montcalm  and  ^lurray. 

In  returning  from  C'ap  Rouge  to  the  city,  it  may  be  well  to  turn  io  the 
I.  at  St.  Albans  and  gain  tlic  St.  Foy  road.  The  villnge  of  St.  Foy  is  6 
M.  from  Quel)ec,  luul  contiiins  many  pleasant  villas  and  mansions.  To  the 
N.  is  the  l)road  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  in  which  may  be 
seen  Ancienne  J^)retfe  (two  inns),  a  lumbering  village  of  3.000  inhabitants, 
on  the  Gosford  Railway,  4/^  M   from  St.  Foy.     Beyond  the  Church  of  St. 


I 


i 


K 


hi  I 

'    'la 


^1 


;p 


282      Moute  69. 


POINT  LEVI. 


I 


Foy  is  the  •  monumental  column,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Bellona  (pre- 
sented by  Prince  Napoleon),  which  marks  the  site  of  the  fiercest  part  of 
the  Second  Battle  of  the  Plains,  in  which  De  Levis  defeated  Murray  ( 1760). 
The  monument  was  dedicated  with  great  pomp  in  1864,  and  stands  over 
the  grave  of  many  hundreds  who  fell  in  the  fight.  Passing  now  the 
handsome  Finlay  Asylum  and  several  villas,  the  suburb  of  St.  John  is 
entered. 

Point  Levi  (or  Levis)  is  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite 
Quebec,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  ferry-boats  running  every  16  min- 
utes. It  has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  with  a  large  and  increasing  trade, 
being  the  terminus  of  the  Quebec  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
of  the  Intercolonial  and  Quebec  Central  Railways.  On  the  lofty 
plateau  beyond  the  town  are  the  great  forts  which  have  been  erected  to 
defend  Quebec  from  a  second  bombardment  from  this  shore.  They  iire 
three  in  number,  1  M.  apart,  solidly  built  of  masonry  and  earth,  with  large 
casemates  and  covered  ways;  and  are  to  be  armed  with  Moncrieff"guns  of 
the  heaviest  calibre.  It  is  said  that  these  forts  cost  $  16,000,000, —  a 
palpable  exaggeration,  —  but  they  have  been  a  very  expensive  piece  of 
work,  and  are  said  to  be  more  nearly  like  Cherbourg,  the  best  of  modern 
European  fortifications,  than  any  others  in  America.  The  batteries  with 
which  Gen.  Wolfe  destroyed  Quebec,  in  1759,  were  located  on  this  line  of 
heights.    The  Government  graving-dock  at  Levis  is  484  ft.  long. 

8t.  Joseph  is  2i  M.  from  Point  Levi,  and  transacts  a  large  business  in 
wood  and  timber.  South  Quebec  is  above  Point  Levi,  and  is  closely  con- 
nected withvit.  The  Liverpool  steamers  stop  here,  and  there  are  great 
shipments  of  lumber  from  the  harbor.  The  town  has  3,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  growing  rapidly. 

St.  Romuald  (or  New  Liverpool)  is  5  M.  from  Quebec,  and  adjoins  S. 
Quebec.  It  has  several  factories  and  mills  and  a  large  lumber-trade,  and 
is  connected  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily  steamers.  The  *  Church  of  St. 
Bomaald  is  "the  finest  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,"  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  paintings  (executed  in  1868-9  by  Lamprech  of  Munich). 

In  the  choir  are  the  Nativitj',  Cruoifixion,  and  Resurrection  of  Christ ;  in  the 
Cbapel  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Marriage  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Flight  into  Eft}  pt,  Nazareth, 
Jesufl  and  the  Doctors,  tlie  Death  of  St.  Joseph  ;  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin,  the 
Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  the  Presentation  In 
the  Temple.  AboTe  arc  eight  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Uoniuiild,  from  his  Conver- 
pion  to  his  Apotheosis.  There  are  16  medallions  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  Sts. 
Peter  and  Paul,  the  Four  Evangelists,  and  five  doctors  of  the  Greek  Church  and 
five  of  the  I*atin  Churcli.  The  altars  were  defigned  by  Schneider  of  Munich,  and 
the  statues  were  carved  in  wood  by  Rudtniller  of  Munich. 

The  *Chaadi^re  Falls  are  4^  M.  beyond  St.  Romuald,  and  over  9  M. 
from  Quebec.  They  can  only  be  reached  by  walking  a  considerable  dis- 
tance through  the  bordering  fields.  "  The  deep  green  foliage  of  the  woods 
overhanging,  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  and  the  solitude  of  the  place,  espe- 
cially as  you  emerge  suddenly  from  the  forest  fastnesses  on  the  scene,  pro- 


ANGE  GARDIEN. 


Route  70.    283 


dnce  a  strong  and  vivid  impression,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten."  Some 
visitors  even  prefer  this  fall  to  that  of  Montmorenci.  The  Chnudi^re  de- 
scends from  Lake  Megantic,  near  the  frontier  of  Maine,  traversing  the 
Canadian  gold-fields.  Arnold's  hungry  and  heroic  army  followed  the 
course  of  this  river  from  its  source  to  its  mouth  in  their  arduous  winter- 
march,  in  1775.  The  Chaudi^re  Falls  are  8  M.  from  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  a  point  where  the  stream  is  compressed  into  a 
breidth  of  400  ft.  The  depth  of  the  plunge  is  about  135  ft.,  and  the 
waters  below  are  continually  in  a  state  of  turbulent  tossing.  At  the  verge 
of  the  fall  the  stream  is  divided  by  large  rocks,  forming  three  channels,  of 
which  that  on  the  W.  is  the  largest.  The  view  from  the  E.  shore  is  the 
best.  **  The  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of  the  overhanging  woods, 
the  rapid  motion,  the  effulgent  brightness  and  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  combine  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects  highly 
attractive,  especially  when"^he  visitor,  emerging  from  the  wood,  is  in- 
stantaneously surprised  by  the  delightful  scene." 


f:il 


il 


70.  Quebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne.— The  Cote  de  Beanprd 

The  steamer  Montmornnci  runs  from  Quebec  to  St.  Anne  twice  a  week.  A  bet- 
ter route  is  that  by  land,  through  the  mediaeval  hamlets  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^. 
Three  days  should  be  devoted  to  the  trip,  —  one  to  go  and  one  to  return,  and  the 
other  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fereol.  Qentlemen  who  understand  French 
will  find  this  district  very  interesting  for  tue  scene  of  a  pedestrian  tour.  The  inns 
at  St.  Anne  and  along  the  road  are  of  a  very  humble  character,  resembling  the  way- 
Bide  auber^''S  of  Brittany  or  Normandy  ;  but  the  people  are  courteous  and  well- 
disposed.  The  Quebec,  Montmorenci  &  Charlevoix  Railway  runs  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Ai  ne. 

Distances. — Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  7  M. ;  Ange  Gardien,  10; 
Chateau  llicher,  15  ;  St.  Anne,  22  (St.  Joachim,  27  ;  St.  Fer6ol,  30). 

The  Seigniory  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupre  contains  several  parishes  of  the  N.  shore, 
and  is  the  most  mountainous  part  of  the  Proviiice.  It  was  granted  in  1630,  and  is 
at  present  an  appanage  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  No  rural  district  N.  of  Mexico 
is  more  quaint  and  mediaeval  than  the  Beaupre  lload,  with  its  narrow  and  ancient 
farms,  its  low  and  massive  stone  houses,  roadside  crosses  and  chapels,  and  unpro- 
gressive  French  population.  But  few  districts  are  more  beautiful  than  this,  with 
the  broad  St.  Lawrence  on  the  S.,  and  the  garden-like  Isle  of  Orleans  ;  the  towers 
of  Quebec  on  the  W.,  and  the  sombre  ridges  of  Cape  Tounnente  and  the  mountains 
of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fer^l  in  advance.  "  In  the  inhabitart  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupre 
you  And  the  Noruian  peasant  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.,  with  his  annals,  his  songs, 
and  his  superstitions."   (AdbA  Ferland  ) 

"Though  all  the  while  we  had  grand  views  of  the  adjacent  country  far  up  and 
down  the  river,  and,  for  the  most  part,  when  we  turned  about,  of  Quebec,  in  the 
horizon  behind  us,  —  and  we  never  beheld  it  without  new  surprise  and  admiration, 
—  yet,  throughout  our  walk,  the  Great  lliver  of  ('ana<la  on  our  rifzht  hand  was  the 
main  feature  in  the  landscape,  and  this  expands  so  rapidly  below  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
and  creates  such  a  breadth  of  level  surface  above  its  waters  in  that  direction,  that, 
looking  down  the  river  as  we  approached  the  extremity  of  that  i.sland,  the  St.  I^aw- 
rence  feenied  to  be  opening  into  the  ocean,  though  we  were  still  about  325  M.  from 
what  can  be  called  its  mouth."'  (Thoke.xu  ) 

Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Fulls,  see  page  276. 

Beyond  the  Falls  the  road  passes  on  over  far-viewing  and  breezy  hills, 
and  between  the  snug  estates  of  the  rural  farmers  with  their  great  bams 
and  exposed  cellars  {cave$).    The  village  of  Ange  Oardien  is  guarded  at 


$ 


iil 


^ 


284      Route  70. 


CHATEAU   RICHER. 


I 


y 


I 


each  end  by  rondsidc  firntnries,  and  lies  in  a  sheltered  glen  near  the  river. 
It  is  clustered  about  a  veiienible  old  church,  in  which  are  paintings  of  the 
Annunciation  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  On  its  front  is  a  large  sun- 
dial. This  dreamy  old  parisji  li:is  l,r)00  inli»l)itimfs,  jind  diitcs  from  1678, 
when  it  was  founded  by  liishoj)  Laviil.  In  175l>  it  was  overrun  and  occu- 
pied by  the  famous  Hritish  corps  of  the  Louishourg  (Jrcnndicrs. 

After  ascending  out  of  the  glen  of  Aiige  (Jardicn,  the  road  crosses  ele- 
vated blulTs,  and  on  the  r.  are  rich  and  extensive  intervales,  cut  into  nar- 
row strips  by  walls.  They  extend  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  beyond 
which  are  the  white  villages  and  tin-dad  spires  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Ch&teau  Kioher  is  a  compact  and  busy  village  of  2,000  inhabitants, 
over  which,  on  a  bold  knoll,  is  the  spacious  parish-church.  The  views 
fi*om  the  platform  of  this  edilice  are  very  pretty,  including  a  large  area  of 
the  parish,  the  village  of  St.  I'lerre  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  distant 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond.  During  the  hunting  season  the  Chateau- 
Richer  marshes  are  nuich  frecjueuted  by  Quebec  sportsmen,  who  shoot 
great  numbers,  of  snipe,  ducks,  and  partridges.  The  upland  streams  afford 
pood  trout-fish inj 


ig. 


On  a  rooky  promontory  noar  Ch^toau  Richer  was  the  site  of  the  ancient  Franolfi- 
can  monastery.  This  massive  stone  hnihlinj;  was  erected  ahont  tlie  year  1H96,  and 
was  •■occupied  hy  a  community  of  pea<'et'ul  monks.  When  tlie  Itritish  army  was 
fighting  tiie  French  near  the  Kails  of  .Montmorenci,  a  det^ichment  whs  sent  here  to 
get  provisions;  hut  tlie  Trench  villajjers,  under  the  intiuence  of  their  spiritual 
guides,  refused  to  jtive  aid,  and  fortified  thems«'lves  in  the  monastery.  The  reduc- 
tion of  this  iuiproniptu  fortre.-<s  ^rave  iJen.  Wolfe  considerahle  troulile,  and  it  was 
only  accomplished  hy  sending;  ajjainst  it  tin*  valiant  Loiiisiiourn  (Irenadiers  and  a 
section  of  artillery.  The  monks  surrendered  after  their  walls  w«>re  well  hattered  by 
cannon  shot,  and  were  dispo>;sessed  hy  the  troops.  r«  fore  the  hondiardment  the 
parisli  priest  met  the  Kn>?li.Oi  otflcers,  and  told  them  that  they  fouf>ht  for  their  king, 
and  he  sliould  he  as  fearless  in  tlefending  liis  people.  The  villap'rs  made  a  tierce 
sortie  from  the  convent  durinijj  the  sicjje,  hut  were  repuL^-eW  with  the  loss  of  30  killed. 
Tlie  8it«  of  the  monastery  is  now  occupied  by  tlie  ^ch:'<  of  the  Sisters  of  Le  Bon 
Pasteur,  and  part  of  its  walls  still  remain. 

The  little  roadside  auberge  called  the  Hotel  Chanipetni  is  about  1  M.  be- 
vond  Chateau  Richer.  The  *Sault  a  In  Puce  is  about  2  M.  bevotul  the 
village,  and  is  visited  by  leaving  the  road  where  it  crosses  the  Riviere  kla 
Puce,  and  ascending  to  the  1.  by  the  path.  The  stream  leaps  over  a  long 
clitV,  falling  into  the  shadows  of  a  bowery  glen,  and  has  been  likened  to 
the  Cauterskill  Falls. 

•'This  fall  of  La  Puce,  the  least  remarkable  of  the  four  which  we  visited  in  this 
vicinity,  we  had  never  heard  of  until  we  canH>  to  ('anada,  and  yet,  .«o  far  as  I  know, 
there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  in  New  Eii^rland  to  he  compared  with  it.  Most  travel- 
lers in  Canada  would  not  hear  of  it,  though  they  might  go  so  near  as  to  hear  it." 
(TiioRKAii.')  TluMv  are  other  pretty  cascades  farther  up  the  stream,  but  they  are 
difficult  of  access. 

"  The  lower  fall  is  112  ft  in  height,  and  its  hanks,  formed  by  elevated  acclivities, 
wooded  to  tlieir  summits,  spread  around  a  solemn  gloom,  which  the  whiteness,  the 
movements,  and  the  noise  of  the  descending  waters  combine  to  make  interesting 

and  attnu'tive The  environs  of  this  river  <iisplay,  in  miniature,  a  succession  of 

romautic  views.     The  river,  from  about  one  fourth  of  the  height  of  the  niouutain, 


ning 
St.  .jol 
the  i)« 
contir 
came 
leiust 
ered  \d 
tile  faJ 
knees  [ 
concoJ 
in  c!in| 
Anne 

AccJ 
the  luf 
at  .fen 
in  furJ 
Cli;ipe|| 
hordec/ 


LA  BONNE  ST.  ANNE.  Route  70.      285 


B  river. 

s  of  the 
gc  sun- 
m  1678, 
d  oecu- 

;scs  ele- 

nto  iinr- 

bcyoJul 

uis. 

\l)itunts, 
le  views 
>  area  of 
c  distant 
,;iiateau- 
ho  Blioot 
ns  alford 


it  Franoifl- 
■  ir)U6,  iind 

army  wa« 
L'lit  here  to 
r  pjiiritual 
Tlu^  ri'duc- 
und  it  was 
liiTS  mid  a 
inttcrod  by 
■dinont  the 

tluir  king, 
ado  a  fiorce 

)f  30  killed. 

of  Le  Bon 


t  1  M.  be- 
cyond  the 
i  vie  re  kla 
ver  a  long 
likened  to 


dted  in  this 
r  as  1  know, 
Most  travol- 
to  lioiir  it." 
jut  they  uro 

1  nocllvitics, 
jitvnoss,  the 
!  inti-rt'sting 
luccossion  of 
>e  uiouutain, 


diflolosei  itflelf  to  the  contemplation  of  the  npectator,  and  delightfi  hin  eye  with  raried 
muses  of  shining  foam  wliich,  Huddcnly  iHHuing  fVom  a  deep  ravine  hollowed  out  by 
the  waters,  glide  down  the  almost  prrpt^ndicular  rock,  and  fonn  a  splendid  curtain, 
which  loses  itself  amid  th(>  foiia^o  of  .•«ni'rounding  woods.  8uch  is  the  scene  which 
the  fali  of  La  Puce  exhibits."    (Heriot.) 

La  Bonue  St.  Anne  (otherwise  known  as  St.  Anne  du  Nord  and  St. 
Anne  de  Beauprt')  is  7  M.  beyot)d  ChAN^au  Richer,  and  is  built  on  a  level 
site  just  above  the  intervales.  It  has  about  1,200  inhal)itants,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  the  thousands  of  pilgrims  who  fr('(|uent  its  shrine,  and  l)y  sup- 
plying brick  to  the  Quebec  niark«^t.  Innnense  numl>crs  of  wild  fowl 
(especially  pigeons)  are  killed  here  (*very  year.  Tliereare  numerous  small 
inns  in  the  narrow  street,  all  of  which  are  crowded  during  the  sea.son  of 
pilgrimage.  On  the  K.  of  the  village  is  the  new  Church  of  St.  Anne,  a 
massive  and  bcaidiftd  strnctiin*  of  gray  stoiu',  in  classic  architectur*'; 
]00,(>00  pilgrims  viviicd  the  shrine  in  1890.  The  (»ld  building  of  the 
*  Church  of  St.  Anne  is  on  the  bank  just  above,  and  is  probably  the  most 
highly  venerated  shrine  in  Anglo-Saxon  America.  The  relics  of  St.  Anne 
are  guarded  in  a  crystal  globe,  and  are  exliibited  at  morning  nniss,  when 
their  contemplation  is  said  to  have  effected  many  miraculous  cures.  Over 
the  richly  adorn<Ml  high  altar  is  a  *  picture  of  St  Anne,  by  the  famous 
French  artist,  Le  Bran  (presented  by  Viceroy  Tracy);  and  the  side  altars 
have  paintings  (given  l)y  Hishop  I.aval)  by  the  Franciscan  monk  Lefran- 
gois  (who  died  in  1686).  There  are  numerous  rude  ex-voto  paintings,  rep- 
resenting marvellous  deliverances  of  ships  in  peril,  through  the  aid  of  St. 
Anne;  and  along  the  cornices  and  in  the  sacristy  are  great  sheaves  of 
crutches,  left  here  by  cripples  and  invalids  who  claimed  to  have  been 
healed  by  the  intercession  of  the  saint.  Within  the  church  is  the  tomb 
of  Philippe  lU''n(5  de  Portneuf,  priest  of  St.  Joachim,  w'.o  was  slain,  with 
several  of  his  people,  while  defending  his  parish  again.st  the  British  troops 
(1759). 

'•  Above  all,  do  not  fail  to  make  your  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Anne 

Hero,  when  AilU-bout  was  governor,  he  la'gan  with  his  own  hund.Hthe  pious  work,  and 
a  habitant  of  lleauprt^,  Louis  (iuiniont,  sorely  afflicted  with  rhoumati.Hm,  came  grin- 
ning with  pain  to  lay  three  stones  in  the  foundation,  in  lionor  probably  of  St.  Anne, 
St.  .lo.ichiin,  and  their  daugliter,  the  Virgin.  Instantly  he  wius  cured.  It  was  but 
the  beginning  of  a  long  eour.'^e  of  miracles  <'ontlnued  more  than  two  centuries,  and 
continuing  still.  Their  finie  spread  far  and  wide.  The  devotion  to  St.  Antie  be- 
came a  di.stingnishiiig  feature  of  Canadian  (,'atliolicity,  till  at  the  present  day  at 
least  thirtiKMi  p:irishe.s  hear  her  name Sometiuus  tue  whob;  shore  was  cov- 
ered with  the  wit^wiims  of  Indian  converts  who  had  piddled  their  birch  canoes  from 
the  farthest  wilds  of  Canada.  The  more  fervent  among  them  would  crawl  on  their 
knees  from  the  shore  to  the  altar.  And,  in  our  own  day,  every  sunnner  a  far  greater 
concourse  of  pilgrims,  not  in  p^int  and  le.itiiers,  but  in  doth  and  ndllinery,and  not 
in  c.inoes,  but  in  stc'amhoals,  bring  tiieir  olleiings  and  their  vows  to  the  '  lionne  St. 
Anne.'"    (I*.\kkm.\n.) 

According  to  tin?  traditions  of  tlie  Konnn  Church,  St.  Anne  was  the  mother  of 
the  nics<ed  Virgin,  and  after  licr  holy  li.nl  reiMi.-ed  for  some  years  in  the  (-athedral 
at  .lerusalem,  it  was  sent  hv  St.  .lames  to  St  La/.trc,  lirst  bishop  of  .Mar-<eiil(!s  He, 
in  turn,  MMit  it  to  St.  Auspice,  liisiiop  of  Apt,  who  placed  it  in  a  subterranean 
chapel  to  fjaard  it  from  protiination  in  tiie  approaching  '  eathen  inroads.  Barbarian 
hordefi  afterwards  swept  over  Apt  and  obliterated  the  church.     700  years  later, 


%\ 


m\ 


I 


f 


I 


\ 


286      Jioiite  70.     THE  FA1.LS  OF  ST.   ANNE. 

Charlemagne  visited  the  town,  and  while  attending  service  in  the  cathedral,  several 
marvellous  incidents  took  place,  and  the  forgotten  remains  of  St.  Anne  were  recov- 
ered from  the  grotto,  whence  a  perpetual  light  was  seen  and  a  delicious  fragrance 
emanated.  Kver  since  that  day  the  relics  of  tlie  saint  have  been  highly  venerated 
in  France.  The  colonists  who  founded  Canada  brought  with  them  this  special  de- 
votion, and  erected  numerous  churches  in  her  honor,  the  chief  of  which  was  St. 
Anne  de  Beaiipre,  which  wa.s  founded  in  lt)68  by  Gov.  d'Aillebout  on  the  estate  pre- 
sented by  Etienne  Lessart.  In  1G08  the  cathedral-chapter  of  Carcasson  pent  to  this 
new  shrine  a  relic  of  St.  Anne  (a  bone  of  the  hand),  together  with  a  lamp  and  a 
reliquary  of  silver,  and  some  fine  paintings.  The  legend  holds  that  a  little  child 
was  thrice  favored  with  heavenly  virions,  on  the  site  of  the  church  ;  and  that,  on 
her  third  appearance,  the  Virgin  conmianded  the  little  one  to  tell  the  people  that 
they  should  build  a  church  011  that  spot.  The  completion  of  the  building  was  sig- 
nalized by  a  remarkable  miracle.  The  vessels  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence  during 
the  French  domination,  always  fired  off  a  saluting  broadside  when  passing  this 
point,  in  recognition  of  their  delivery  from  the  perils  of  the  sea.  Bi.<hop  Laval 
made  St.  Anne's  Day  a  feast  of  obligation  ;  and  rich  ex-voto  gifts  were  placed  in  the 
church  by  the  Intendant  Talon,  the  Marquis  de  Tracy .  and  M.  d'Iberville,  "  the  Cid  of 
New  Prance."  The  church  has  a  chasuble  embroidered  in  gold  by  Anne  of  Aus- 
tria, mother  of  Louis  XIV.,  and  given  by  her  to  this  shrine  ;  and  a  bit  of  rock 
from  the  grotto  where  the  Virgin  Mary  was  born.  For  oyer  two  centuries  mi- 
raculous cures  have  been  wrought  here  :  and  myriads  of  pilgrims  from  Canada, 
the  United  States  and  France  have  worshipped  at  the  shrine.  An  extract  from  a 
Lower-Canada  newspaper  describes  the  curing  of  a  won^i^  .1  who  had  been  bedrid- 
den for  4  years :  "  She  was  placed  in  the  Church  of  St.  Anne,  on  a  portable  bed, 
ut  6  o'clock  on  Wednesday  morning.  After  low  mass  she  was  made  to  venerate 
the  relics  of  St.  Anne.  A  grand  mass  was  chanted  a  few  minutes  afterwards. 
Toward  the  middle  of  the  divine  ofHce  the  patient  moved  a  little.  After  the  eleva- 
tion she  sat  up.  At  the  termination  of  the  mass  she  got  up  and  walked  and  made 
the  circuit  of  the  church." 

The  Cote  de  Beaupre  and  the  site  of  St.  Anne  were  granted  by  the  Compagnie  des 
Cents  Associes,  in  1636,  to  the  Sieur  Cheffault  de  la  Ilegnardiere,  who,  however, 
made  but  little  progress  in  settling  this  bioad  domain,  and  finally  sold  it  to  Bishop 
Laval.  In  1661,  after  the  fall  of  Montreal,  this  district  was  ravaged  by  the  merciless 
Iroquois,  and  in  1682  St.  Anne  was  garrisoned  by  three  companies  of  French  regu- 
lars. On  the  23d  of  August,  1759,  St.  Anne  was  attacked  by  300  Highlanders  and 
Light  Infantry  and  a  company  of  Hungers,  under  command  of  Capt.  Montgomery. 
The  place  was  defended  by  200  villagers  and  Indians,  who  kept  up  so  hot  a  fire  from 
the  shelter  of  the  houses  that  the  as.sailants  were  forced  to  halt  and  wait  until  a 
flanking  movement  had  been  made  by  the  Hangers.  Many  of  the  Canadians  were 
slain  during  their  retreat,  and  all  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British  were  put  to 
death.  The  victors  then  burnt  the  village,  saving  only  the  ancient  church,  in 
•which  they  made  their  quarters.  A  tradition  of  the  country  says  that  they  set  flro 
to  the  church  three  times,  but  it  was  delivered  by  St.  Anne.  The  following  day 
they  advanced  on  Chateau  Kicher  and  Ange  Gardien,  burning  every  house  and  l»arn, 
and  cutting  down  the  fruit  trees  and  young  grain.  They  were  inces.suutly  annoyed 
by  the  rifles  of  the  countrymen,  and  gave  no  quarter  to  their  prisoners. 

The  *  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  visited  by  passing  out  from  St.  Anne  on 
the  road  to  St.  Joachim,  as  far  as  the  inn,  "  like  an  auberrje  of  Brittany," 
at  the  crossing  of  the  St.  Anne  River.  Thence  tlie  way  Ic  ds  up  the  river- 
bank  through  dark  glens  for  3-4  M.,  and  the  visitor  is  conducted  by  a 
guide.  In  descending  from  the  plateau  to  the  plain  below,  the  river  forms 
seven  cascades  in  a  distance  of  about  a  league,  some  of  which  are  of  rare 
beauty,  and  have  been  preferred  even  to  the  Trenton  Falls,  in  New  York. 
The  lower  fall  is  130  ft.  high. 

'*  A  magnificent  spectacle  burst  upon  our  sight  A  raj)id  stream,  breaking  its  way 
through  the  dark  woods,  and  from  pool  to  pool  among  masses  of  jagged  rock,  sud- 
denlv  cleaves  for  itself  a  narrow  chasm,  over  which  you  may  spring  if  you  have  au 
iron'nerve,  and  then  falls,  broken  into  a  thousand  fantastic  forms  of  spray  along  the 


Semi 

anil 

ereci 

Th 
the 
sIiriiK 
biliia 
fronj 
tec  tor 
Nea 
who  I 
from  ( 
destro 
St 


ST.   JOACHIM. 


Route  70.      287 


il,  several 
ere  re<;ov- 
fragrance 
venerated 
special  de- 
;h  was  St. 
jstate  pre- 
ent  to  this 
imp  and  a 
little  child 
li  that,  on 
)eople  that 
ng  was  Mg- 
nce  during 
asKing  this 
shop  Laval 
aced  in  the 
'  the  Cid  of 
ine  of  AuB- 
bit  of  rock 
jnturles  mi- 
om  Canada, 
tract  from  a 
jeen  bedrid- 
lortable  bed, 
to  venerate 
afterwards, 
er  the  eleva- 
ed  and  made 

jmpagnie  des 
lo,  liowever, 
it  to  Bishop 
the  merciless 
French  regu- 
h larders  and 
Montgomery, 
ot  a  fire  from 
wait  until  a 
nadians  were 
h  were  put  to 
it  church,  in 
.t  they  set  firo 
following  day 
)use  and  barn , 
lutly  annoyed 

St.  Anne  on 
Brittany," 
up  the  river- 
ducted  by  a 
c  viver  forms 
1  are  of  rare 
1  New  York. 


reaking  its  way 
;ged  rock,  sud- 
\i  you  have  au 
jpray  along  the 


steep  face  of  the  rock,  into  a  deep  gorge  of  horrid  darkness.  I  do  not  know  the  vol- 
ume of  water  ;  I  forgot  to  guess  the  lu'iglit,  it  may  be  two  hundred  feet.  Fij^ures 
are  absurd  in  the  estimate  of  the  l)e!Uity  and  grandeur  of  a  S(«'ii'  like  this.  1  only 
know  that  the  whole  impression  of  tlie  scene  was  one  of  tlie  most  intense  1  have  ever 
experienced.  The  disposition  of  the  mass  of  broken  waters  is  the  most  graceful  con- 
ceivable. The  irresistible  might  of  the  rush  of  the  fall,  the  stupendous  npriglit 
masses  of  black  rock  tliat  form  the  chasm  ;  the  heavy  fringe  of  dark  woods  all 
around;  the  utter  solitariness  and  gloom  of  the  scene, — all  aid  to  impress  the 
imagination.     An  artist  might  prefer  this  spot  to  Niagara."     (.Marsiiali,.) 

"  Ilei-e  the  river,  1  -20()  ft  wide,  comes  tiowing  rapidly  over  a  rocky  beil  out  of 
that  interesting  wilderness  which  stretches  toward  IIuilsou's  Bay  and  Davis's  Stniits. 
Ha  Ila  Bay,  on  the  Sagucnay,  was  about  100  M.  N  of  where  we  stood.  Looking  on 
the  map,  I  find  that  tlie  first  country  on  the  N.  which  bears  a  name  is  that  p.irt  of 
Rupert's  Land  called  E;ust  Main.  This  river,  called  after  the  Holy  Aiuie,  Howing 
from  such  a  direction,  here  tumbles  over  a  precipice,  at  present  by  three  channels, 
how  far  down  I  do  not  know,  but  far  enougli  for  all  our  purposes,  and  to  as  good  a 

distance  rj?  if  twice  as  far The  falling  water  seemed  to  jir  the  very  ro«'ks,  and 

the  noise  to  be  ever  increasing.  The  vista  was  through  a  narrow  and  deep  cleft  in 
the  mountain,  all  wliite  suds  at  the  bottom."  From  the  bed  of  the  stream  below 
'*  rose  a  perpendicular  wall,  I  will  not  venture  to  say  how  far,  but  only  tha*  it  was 
the  highest  perpendicular  wall  of  bare  rock  tliat  I  ever  .saw.  .  .  .  Tliis  precipice  is 
not  sloped,  nor  is  the  material  soft  and  crumbling  slate  a.s  at  Montmorenci,  but  it 
rises  perfectly  perpendicular,  like  the  side  of  a  moiuitain  fortress, and  is  cracked  into 
vast  cubical  masses  of  gray  and  black  rock  shining  with  moisture,  as  if  it  were  the 

ruin  of  an  ancient  wall  binlt  by  Titans Take  it  altogether,  it  wiis  a  most  wild 

and  rugged  and  stupendous  chasm,  so  deep  and  narrow  where  a  river  hjul  worn  it- 
self a  passage  through  a  mountain  of  rocic,  and  all  around  was  the  comparatively 
untrodden  wilderness."     (Thoreau.) 

The  base  of  the  St.  Anno  Mts.  is  reached  by  a  road  running  up  tlie  val- 
ley for  3-5  M.  The  cliief  peak  is  2,687  ft.  higli,  but  the  view  thence  is 
intercepted  by  trees.  The  Valley  of  St.  Fcnkd  is  8  M.  from  St.  Ainic,  and 
is  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  It  contains  1,100  inlial)itants,  and  in 
the  vicinity  are  several  lofty  and  picturesque  cjiscades.  St.  Tite  des  Caps 
is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  5  M.  from  the  river,  between  Cape  Tour- 
mente  and  the  St.  Fereol  Mts.  The  trouting  in  these  glens  is  very  good, 
and  rare  sport  is  found  at  Lake  St.  Joachim,  several  miles  beyond. 
.  St.  Joachim  is  5  M.  beyond  St.  Anne,  and  is  a  villtige  of  1,000  inhabi- 
tants, situated  near  the  river,  and  opposite  St.  Fran9ois  d' Orleans,  2  M. 
beyond  this  pohit  is  the  Chateau  Bellevue  and  the  farm  of  the  Quebec 
Seminary.  The  summit  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  about  3  M.  from  the 
chateau,  and  is  sometimes  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  sni)erb  *  view.  The 
Seminarians  have  kept  a  cross  upon  this  peak  for  the  last  half-century; 
and  in  1869,  44  Ciitholic  gentlemen,  led  by  the  Archbishop  of  Quebec, 
erected  a  new  one,  25  ft.  high,  and  covered  witli  tin. 

The  ChAteau  Bellevue  is  a  long  and  massive  building  of  limestone,  situated  near 
the  foot  of  Cape  Tourmente,  and  surrounded  by  noble  old  forests,  in  which  are 
shrines  of  St.  .losepii  and  the  Virgin,  The  chiteau  is  furnished  with  reading  and 
billiard  rooms,  etc  ,  and  is  occupied  every  summer  by  about  40  priests  and  students 
from  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  The  neat  Chai»el  of  St.  Louis  de  Oonaiga  (the  pro- 
tector of  youth)  is  S  of  the  chlteau. 

Near  tliis  point  Jaques  Cartier  anchored  in  1635,  and  was  visited  by  the  Indians, 
who  Itrougiit  him  presents  of  melons  and  maize.  In  1623  Champlain  came  hither 
from  Quebec  and  founded  a  settlement,  whose  traces  an-  still  seen.  This  post  was 
destroyed  by  Sir  David  Kirke's  men  in  ir)2S,  and  the  settlers  were  driven  away. 

St.  Joachim  was  occupied  in  August,  1759,  by  150  of  the  78th  Highlanders,  who 


it '    I 


I 


I 


i  fi 


1 


if 

I 
1 


288      Route  71.        THE  ISLE  OF  ORLEANS. 


had  just  marched  down  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  through  St,  Pierre  and  St.  FnmSlle. 
They  were  engnjced  in  the  stn'ets  by  nrnicd  villagers,  and  had  a  sharp  skirmish 
before  the  Caiiadians  wer«!  driven  into  th<!  forest,  aftrr  wliich  the  Scottish  soldiers 
fortified  tlieinselvcs  in  tlie  priest's  lionso.  near  tin-  ciiiirrli. 

The  site  of  tlie  scmimiry  was  orcu})i(d  l)('fnn'  l(i7(>  by  15i.-hop  Laval,  who  founded 
here  a  rural  ^'^■nliIlarv  in  which  the  Nouth  of  the  jicjisantry  were  instructed.  They 
were  well  grounded  in  the  doctrine  and  discipline  of  the  Church,  and  were  In- 
structed in  the  n^eclninic  art.-;  and  in  varioun  liranchcs  of  farn.ing.  This  was  the 
first  "  agricultural  college  '"  in  America.  The  broad  seigniory  of  the  Cotede  15eauv)re, 
which  lies  bi'tween  St.  .Joachim  and  Heanport,  was  tlien  an  appanage  of  Bishop 
Laval,  and  was  more  populou.^  than  Quebec  itself.  "  Above  the  vast  meadows  of 
the  parish  of  St  .loachim,  tliat  here  border  the  St.  Ijawrence,  there  rises  like  an 
island  a  low  fiat  hill,  hedged  round  with  forests,  like  the  tonsured  head  of  a  monk. 
It  was  here  that  Fiaval  planted  lii.s  school.  A(  ross  the  n;eadows,  a  mile  or  more  dis- 
tant, towers  the  mount^iin  promontory  of  Cape  Tourmente.  You  may  climb  its 
woody  steeps,  and  from  the  top,  waist-deep  in  blueberry-bushes,  survey,  from 
Kamouraska  to  Quebec,  the  grand  Canadian  world  outstretched  below;  or  mount 
the  neighboring  heights  of  St.  Anne,  where,  athwart  the  gaunt  arms  of  ancient 
pines,  the  river  lies  shinui.eiing  in  sumnier  haze,  the  cottages  of  the  liabitanls  are 
strung  like  beads  of  a  rosary  a  ong  the  Uieadows  of  Beaupre,  the  shores  of  Orleans 
ba^k  in  warm  light,  and  far  on  the  horizon  the  rock  of  Quebec  rests  like  a  faint  gray 
cloud  ;  or  traverse  the  forest  till  tlie  roar  of  the  torrent  guides  you  to  the  rocky  sol- 
itude where  it  holds  its  savage  revels Game  on  the  river ;  trout  in  lakes, 

brooks,  and  pool.s  ;  wild  fruits  and  fiowers  on  the  meadows  and  mountains;  a  thou- 
sand resources  of  honest  and  healthful  recreatioti  here  wait  the  student  emancipated 
from  books,  but  not  parted  for  a  moment  from  the  pious  influence  that  hangs  about 
the  old  walls  embosomed  in  the  woods  of  St.  Joachim.  Around  on  plains  and  hills 
stand  the  dwellings  of  a  pcs-iceful  peasantry,  as  difierent  from  the  restless  population 
of  the  neighboring  States  as  the  denizens  of  some  ^'ormau  or  Breton  village."  (Park- 
Man.) 

71.  The  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Steam  ferry-boats  leave  Quebec  three  times  daily  for  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  The 
trip  gives  beautiful  views  of  tlie  city  and  its  marine  environs,  and  of  the  Mont- 
morenci  Falls  and  the  St.  Anne  Mts. 

The  island  is  tniversed  by  two  roads.  The  N.  shore  road  passes  from  West  Point 
to  St.  Pierre,  in  6  M.  ;  St.  Famille,  14  M.  ;  and  St  Fran\;ois,  20  M  The  S.  shore 
road  runs  from  West  Point  to  Patrick's  Hole,  in  6  M. ;  St.  Laurent,  7^  ;  St.  John, 
13^  ;  St.  Fran^'ois,  21.  A  transverse  road  crosses  the  island  from  St.  Laurent  to  St. 
Pierre.  ^ 

The  Isle  of  Orleans  is  about  3^  M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  70  square 
miles  (47,923  acres)  of  land,  beiiif?  20  M.  long  and  5i  M.  wide.  The  beau- 
tiful situation  of  the  island,  in  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  its  picturesque 
heights  and  umbrageous  groves,  its  quaint  little  hamlets  and  peaceful  and 
primitive  people,  render  Orleans  one  of  the  most  interesting  districts  of 
the  Lower  Province,  and  justify  its  title  of  "  the  Garden  of  Canada." 

The  island  was  called  Minima  by  the  Indians,  a  large  tribe  of  whom  lived  here 
and  carried  on  the  fisheries,  providing  also  a  place  of  retreat  for  the  mainland  tribes 
in  case  of  invasion.  In  155J5  (Jartier  explored  these  shores  and  the  hills  and  forests 
beyond,  being  warmly  welcomed  by  the  resident  Indians  and  feasted  with  fish, 
honey,  and  melons.  lie  speaks  of  the  noble  forests,  and  adds:  "We  found  there 
great  grape-vines,  such  as  we  had  not  seen  before  in  all  the  world  ;  and  for  that  we 
named  it  the  Isle  of  Bacchus.*'  A  year  later  it  received  the  name  of  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  in  honor  of  De  Valois,  Duke  of  Orleans,  the  son  of  Francis  I  of  Fiance 
The  popular  name  was  Vlsle  ties  Sorriers  (Wizards'  Island),  either  on  account  of 
the  marvellous  skill  of  the  natives  in  foretelling  futuiv  storms  and  nautical  events, 
or  else  becau.^e  the  sup'.'rstitious  colonists  on  the  mainland  were  alarmed  at  the 
nightly  movements  of  lights  along  the  insular  shores,  and  attributed  to  dtnions  and 
wizards  the  dancing  fires  whicli  were  tarried  by  the  Indians  in  vi.>-itiug  their  fish- 
nets during  the  night-tides. 


ekirmlsh 
h  soldiers 

0  founded 
ed.    They 

1  were  In- 
js  was  the 
L'  IJenupre, 

(if  Bif^hnp 
nadowB  of 

ni»  like  a" 
(if  a  monk, 
r  niorc  dis- 
y  climb  its 
rvey,  from 
•  or  mount 
of  ancient 
ibitnnts  are 
g  of  Orleans 
a  faint  gray 
ic  rocky  >sol- 
ut  in  lakes, 
inp-,  athou- 
euiancipatcd 
hang.4  about 
ns  and  hills 
IS  population 


g«- 


(Pabk- 


)rleans.  The 
ot  the  Mout- 

m  West  Point 
The  S.  sliore 

^  ;  St.  John, 
jiiurent  to  St. 


ns  70  square 
The  beau- 
picturesque 
peaceful  and 
districts  of 
iinai^la." 

loni  lived  hero 
iiainlund  tribes 
ills  and  forests 
;ted  with  fish, 
,e  found  there 
uid  lor  tluit  we 

of  the  Isle  of 
^  1   of  Fiance 

on  account  of 
jautical  events, 
iliirnied  at  the 

to  dt  inons  and 
,tiug  their  fi»h- 


ST.   PIERRE  D'ORLEANS.        Route  71.       289 

The  island  was  granted  in  1620  to  the  Sieur  dc  C^ien  by  the  Duke  dc  Montmorenci, 
Viceroy  of  New  France.  In  1675  this  district  was  forincfl  into  tlic  Karldoni  of  St 
Laurent,  and  was  conferred  on  M  Hertliclot,  wlio  assumed  the  title  of  the  Count  of 
it.  Lawrence.  In  1601  tlie  N.  part  was  occupied  In  ♦HK)  Christian  Ilurons,  who  had 
tAken  refuge  under  the  walls  of  Quelu'c  from  tlie  exterminatinfjf  Inuiuois.  In  lt)66 
the  Iroquois  demanded  that  they  should  come  ami  ihvell  in  tiieir  country,  and  upon 
their  refusal  fell  upon  the  Ilurons  with  u  furceof  Jj(  0  warriors,  devastated  the  island, 
and  killed  72  of  the  unfortunate  Christians.  Two  tribes  were  compelled  soon  afU't 
to  surrender  and  be  led  as  captiv(\'<  into  the  Irotitiois  country,  wiiile  the  Tribe  of  the 
('ord  left  the  island  and  settled  at  I^rette.  The  Isle  was  overrun  by  Iroriuois  in 
1661,  and  in  an  action  with  them  at  Hiviere  Maheu,  I)e  Lauzon,  Seneschal  of  New 
France,  and  all  hi;<  guards  were  killed,  preferrinjj;  to  dio  fijrhting  than  to  sun-ender 
and  be  tortured.  Tiio  great  cross  of  Argentenay  was  carried  away  and  iiiiscd  in  tri- 
umph at  the  Iroquois  village  on  Lake  Onondaga  (New  York). 

For  nearly  a  century  the  Isle  enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  until  it  had  2,0'M)  in- 
habitants with  5,000  cattle  and  rich  and  productive  farms.  Then  came  the  advance 
of  Wolfe's  fleet ;  the  inhabitants  all  fled  to  Charlesb(mrg ;  the  unavailing  Krt'nch 
troops  and  artilU^ry  left  these  shores ;  Wolfe's  troops  landed  at  St.  Laurent,  and 
erected  camps,  forts,  and  hospitals  on  the  S  E.  point ;  and  soon  afterward  the  Brit- 
ish forces  systematically  ravaged  the  deserted  country,  burning  nearly  every  house 
on  the  Isle,  and  destroying  the  orchards. 

The  Isle  is  now  divided  into  two  seigniories,  or  lordships,  whose  revenues  and 
titles  are  vested  in  ancient  French  fniiilics  of  Quebec.  The  soil  is  rich  and  di- 
versified, and  its  pretty  vistas  justify  ('harlevo  x"s  sketch  (of  1720):  "  \V(>  took  a 
stroll  on  the  Isle  of  Orl(  ans,  whose  ciiltivated  fields  extend  around  like  a  broad  am- 
phitheatre, and  gracefully  end  the  view  on  every  ^ide.  I  have  found  this  country 
beautiful,  the  soil  good,  and  the  inhabitants  very  much  at  their  ea.«e."  The  agri- 
cultural interest  is  now  declining,  owing  to  the  antique  and  unprogn'ssive  ideas  of 
the  farmers,  who  confine  themselves  to  small  an-as  and  neglect  alternation  of  crops. 
The  farms  are  celebrated  for  their  excellent  potatoes,  jiliuns,  appies,  and  for  a  rare 
and  delicious  variety  of  small  cheeses.  The  people  are  temperate,  geiierou.'?,  and 
hospitable,  and,  by  reason  of  their  insular  position,  still  pre.>^erve  the  primitive 
Norman  customs  of  the  early  settlers  under  Champlain  and  Frontena'.  The  Isle 
and  the  adjacent  shore  of  Beauprdhave  been  called  the  nursery  of  (Canada,  so  many 
have  been  the  emigrants  from  these  swarming  hives  who  have  settled  in  other  parts 
of  the  Provinces. 

St.  Pierre  is  the  village  nenrest  to  Quebec  (9  M.),  and  is  reached  by 
ferry-steamers,  which  also  run  to  BeauUtu.  It  has  about  700  inhabitant.s, 
and  is  beautifully  situated  nearly  opposite  the  Montmorenci  Kalis  and 
Ange  Gardien.  The  first  chiipel  was  erected  here  in  1651  by  P^re  Lale- 
mant,  and  was  used  by  the  Hurons  and  French  in  common.  In  1769  the 
present  church  of  St.  Pierre  was  erected.  On  this  shore,  in  1825,  were 
built  the  colossal  timber-ships,  the  Columbus,  3,700  tons,  jind  the  Baron 
Renfrew^  3,000  tons,  the  largest  vessels  that  the  world  had  seen  up  to  that 
time. 

The  convent  of  St.  Famille  was  founded  in  1685,  b}'  the  Sisters  of  the 
Congregation,  and  since  that  time  the  good  nuns  have  educiited  the  girls 
of  the  village,  liaving  generally  about  70  in  the  institution.  The  nunnery 
is  seen  near  the  church,  and  was  built  in  1699,  having  received  additions 
from  time  to  time  as  the  village  increased.  Its  cellar  is  divided  into  nar- 
row and  contracted  cells,  whose  design  has  l)een  long  forgotten.  The 
woodwork  of  the  convent  was  burned  by  Wolfe's  foragers  in  1759,  but  was 
restored  in  1761,  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  The  first  church  of  St. 
Famille  was  built  in  1671,  and  the  present  church  dates  from  1745.  The 
13  8 


i 


290      Route?!.      ST.    LAURENT  D'ORLEANS. 


'  ii 


village  is  nearly  opposite  Chateau  Richer,  and  commands  fine  views  of  the 
Laurentian  Mts. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Frant^ois  inchides  the  domain  of  the  ancient  fief  of 
Argentenay,  and  was  fonncd  in  1G78.  In  1G83  the  first  church  was  budt, 
and  the  present  church  dates  from  173G,  and  was  phmdered  by  Wolfe's 
troops  in  1759.  The  view  from  the  church  is  very  beautiful,  and  includes 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  horizon,  tlie  white  villages  of  the  S.  coast,  and  the 
isles  of  Madame,  Gro.vse,  and  Keaux.  On  the  N.  shore,  at  the  end  of  the 
island,  are  the  broad  meadows  of  Argentenay,  where  wild-fowl  and  other 
game  are  sought  by  the  sportsmen  of  Quebec.  This  district  looks  across 
the  N.  Channel  upon  the  dark  and  imposing  ridges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  and 
the  peaks  of  St.  Fer^ol ;  and  the  view  from  the  church  is  yet  more  exten- 
sive and  beautiful. 

The  church  of  St.  John  was  built  in  1735,  near  the  site  of  a  chapel 
dating  from  1675,  and  contemporary  with  the  hamlet.  This  parish  is 
famous  for  the  number  of  skilful  river-pilots  which  it  has  furnished.  It 
has  about  1,300  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most  important  parish  on  the  island. 
It  is  nearly  opposite  the  S.  shore  vdlage  of  St.  Michel  (see  page  254). 

St.  Laurent  is  7  M.  from  St.  Jean,  upon  the  well-settled  royal  road. 
The  parish  is  entered  after  crossing  the  Kiviere  Maheu,  where  the  Seneschal 
of  New  France  fell  in  battle.  The  Church  of  St.  Laurent  is  a  stately 
edifice  of  cut  stone  with  a  shining  tin  roof,  and  is  113  ft.  in  length.  It  re- 
placed churches  of  1675  and  1697,  and  was  consecrated  in  1861.  The 
Boute  des  Pretres  ilms  N.  from  St.  Laurent  to  St.  Pierre,  and  was  so  named 
60  years  ago,  when  this  church  had  a  piece  of  St.  Paul's  arm-bone,  which 
■was  taken  away  to  St.  Pierre,  and  thence  was  stolen  at  night  by  the  St. 
Laurent  people.  After  long  controversj',  the  Bishop  of  Quebec  ordered 
that  each  church  should  restore  to  the  other  its  own  relics,  which  was 
done  along  this  road  by  large  processions,  the  relics  being  exchanged  at 
the  great  black  cross  midway  on  the  road  Ij^  M.  W.  of  St.  Laurent  is 
the  celebrated  haven  called  Trou  St.  Patrice  (since  1689),  or  Patrich'a 
Hole^  where  vessels  seek  shelter  in  a  storm,  or  outward-bound  ships  awa  t 
orders  to  sail.  The  river  is  1]  M.  wide  here,  and  there  are  10-  12  fathoms 
of  water  in  the  cove.  2  M.  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Caverne  de  Bontentps, 
a  grotto  about  20  ft.  deep  cut  in  the  solid  rock  near  the  level  of  the  river. 

Lizotte^s  Hotel,  the  chief  inn  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  is  at  Ste.  Petrouille. 
Many  Quebec  families  have  summer-cottages  on  the  island.  The  Cham- 
berland  House  is  at  St.  Jean  d'  Orleans, 


QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY.     Route  72.      291 


W9 


of  the 


lU  fief  of 
,viis  bmlt, 
y  Wolfe's 
1  includes 
t,  and  the 
end  of  the 
and  other 
oks  across 
e  Mts.  and 
lore  exten- 

if  a  chapel 
5  parish  is 
nished.    It 
I  tlic  island. 
'  254). 
royal  road. 
le  Seneschal 
is  a  stately 
igth.    It  re- 
1861.     The 
as  so  named 
•bone,  which 
t  by  the  St. 
■bee  ordered 
which  was 
xchanged  at 
t.  Laurent  is 
or  Patrick's 
ships  awa  t 
- 12  fathoms 
de  Bontemps, 
of  the  river, 
e.  Petrouille. 
The  Chain- 


72.    Quebec  to  Gaconna  and  ihe  Sagnenay  River.— The 
North  Shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Chans^es  oftimr.  tnkf.  pi  are  from  season  to  sfason.  The  intevrlins;  traeelln  should 
write  to  the  liirhelieit  4*  Ontario  Navigation  Co.,  Montreal,  for  lati-sl  time-tahles. 

In  Rummer,  the  steamboats  leave  Quebec  four  times  a  week,  uHually  on  Tuesday, 
Wednesday,  Friday  and  Saturday,  at  7  a.  m.  They  call  at  Murmy  Baj,  Kividre 
du  Loup  (Cacouna),  Tadousao,  Ila  Ha  Bay,  at  d  Ohicoutimi. 

DlHtHUceH.  —  Quebec  to  St.  Laurent,  12  M. ;  l^t.  John  (Orleans),!";  Isle  Ma- 
dame, 23;  Cape  Tourmente,28;  St.  Fran<;;ois  Xavier,  45;  St.  Paul's  Bay,  65 ;  Les' 
Kboulements,  06 ;  Murray  Bay,  82  ;  Riviere  Du  Loup,  112  (Gscouna,  118) ;  Tadousac, 
134  (Ohicoutimi,  235) 

The  S.  shore  is  <lescribed  in  Route  67  (pages  246-255),  and  the  Isle  of 
Orleans  in  Route  71.  As  the  steamer  moves  down  across  the  Basin  of 
Quebec,  beautiful  *  views  are  afforded  on  all  sides,  including  a  fascinating 
retrospect  of  the  lofty  fortress. 

"  Behind  us  lay  the  city,  with  its  tinned  roofs  plitterinj?  in  the  morning  sunshine, 
and  its  citadel-rook  towering  over  the  river ;  on  the  southern  shore,  Point  Levi. 
picturesquely  climbing  the  steep  b;ink,  embowered  in  dark  trees  ;  then  the  wooded 
bluffs  with  their  long  levels  of  fann-iand  behiml  tlieni,  and  the  scatteivd  cottages  of 
the  habitants,  vi\\\\vi  northward  the  shore  rose  with  a  gradual,  undulating  sweep, 
glittering,  far  inland,  with  houses,  and  gardens,  and  crowding  villages,  until  it 
reached  the  dark  stormy  line  of  tlie  Laurentian  Mts.  in  the  N.  E  ....  The  sky,  the 
air,  the  colors  of  the  landscape,  were  from  Norway  ;  Quebec  and  the  surrounding 
villages  suggested  Normandy,  —  except  the  tin  roofs  and  spires,  which  were  Russian, 
rather;  while  here  and  there,  though  rarely,  were  the  marks  of  English  oicupancy. 
The  age,  the  order,  the  apparent  stability  and  immobility  of  society,  as  illustrated 
by  external  things,  belonged  decidedly  to  Europe.  This  part  of  America  is. but  70 
or  80  years  older  than  New  England,  yet  there  seems  to  be  a  difference  of  500  years." 
(Batard  Taylor.) 

After  running  for  17  M  between  the  populous  shores  and  bright  villages 
of  Orleans  and  Bellechasse  (see  page  254),  the  steamer  turns  to  the  N.  K., 
when  oflFSt.  John,  and  goes  toward  Cape  Tourmente.  passing  between  Isle 
Madame  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  Then  St.  Francois  is  passed,  on  the  1., 
and  the  meadows  of  Argentenay  are  seen,  over  which  is  St.  .Tfuchim.  As 
the  N.  Channel  is  opened,  a  distant  view  of  St.  Anne  de  Boaupr^  may  be 
obtained,  under  the  frownmg  St.  Anne  Mts.  Cape  Tourmente  (see  page 
287)  is  now  passed,  beyond  which  are  the  great  Laurentian  peaks  of  Cape 
Rouge  and  Cape  Grihaune,  over  2,000  ft.  high,  and  impinging  so  closely  on 
the  river  that  neither  road  nor  houses  can  be  built.  These  mountains  are 
of  granite,  and  are  partially  wooded.  8  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  a 
lighthouse,  175  ft.  above  the  water,  on  the  rugged  slope  of  Cape  Rouge. 
A  few  miles  to  the  E.  is  the  Sault  au  Cochon,  under  the  crest  of  a  mountain 
2,370  ft.  high. 


m 

1  ■ 


M 


i 


)ii 


■4: -I 


292      R&ute  7t. 


ST.   PAUL'S  BAY. 


Boucher  aHuerted,  in  1068,  that  the  shore  between  Cape  Tourmente  nnd  Tadousao 
was  uninhahitable,  *'  belnf?  too  lofty,  nnd  nil  rocky  and  ewnrped."  Kut  the  French 
Canadians,  hardy  and  tirelesH,  iind  loving  the  St.  Lawrence  more  than  the  Normans 
love  the  Seine,  have  founded  nnnierous  liamlets  on  the  rocks  of  this  iron  Hhore.  The 
coast  between  St.  .loaciiim  and  St.  Knu^ois  Xavier  is  as  yet  uncMciiitjcd. 

"  We  ran  alonj?  tl»e  bases  of  lieadlands,  1,(I0()  to  l.WM)  ft.  in  heiK'lit,  wild  and  dark 
with  lowering  clouds,  yray  with  rain,  or  touclied  witl>  a  golden  transparencv  bv  tlie 
sunshine,  — alt<'rnatinn  helts  of  atmospheric  effect,  wliicli  t'reatlv  increased  "their 
beautv.  Indeed,  all  of  us  who  saw  the  I^)wer  St.  I^awrence  for  tlie  first  time  were 
surprised  by  the  imposing  character  of  its  scenery."    (IJayard  Taylor.) 

Beyond  Abntti.s  nnd  the  liigh  clifTs  of  Cape  Miiilhird  the  stcniuor  pn.««pes 
the  populous  vilhige  of  St.  Fran^n's  Xavier,  extending  up  the  valley  of  the 
Bouchard  River.  On  the  S.  a  long  line  of  picturesque  islets  is  ])assed 
(see  page  254).  Beyond  Capo  Lahaie  the  steamer  lies  to  oil"  St.  J'aul's 
Bay,  whose  unique  and  beautiful  scenery  is  seen  from  the  deck. 

St.  Paul's  Bay  (two  small  inns)  is  a  parish  of  4,000  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated amid  the  grandest  scenery  of  the  N.  shore.  The  j)eople  are  all  Frei  ch, 
nnd  the  village  is  clustered  about  the  church  and  convent  near  the  GonfTre 
River.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  iron,  plumbago,  limestone,  garnet-rock, 
nnd  curious  saline  and  sulphurous  springs.  It  is  claimed  that  "no  parish 
offers  fio  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  poet,  or  tl:e  naturalist."  The 
wild  and  turbulent  streams  that  sweep  down  the  valley  have  carried  away 
all  the  bridges  which  have  been  erected  by  the  people.  The  summer 
boarding-houses  at  St.  Paul's  Bay  are  kept  by  Joseph  Cimon  and  Joseph 
Duchene. 

The  vistas  up  the  valleys  of  the  Oouffre  nnd  the  Moulin  Rivers  show  distant 
ranges  of  picturesque  blue  mountains,  with  groujis  of  conical  Alpine  jwaks.  In  1791 
it  is  claimed  that  the  .shores  of  the  bay  were  shaken  by  eartluiuakes  for  many  days, 
after  which  one  of  the  peaks  to  the  N.  belched  forth  great  volumes  of  smoke  and 
passed  into  the  volcanic  state,  emitting  columns  of  tlame  through  several  days.  The 
peaks  are  bare  and  white,  with  sharp  precipices  near  the  sunnnit.  The  valley  of 
the  Oouffre  has  been  likened  to  the  Vale  of  (Mwyd,  in  Wales,  and  is  traversed  by  a 
fiiir  road  along  the  r.  bank  of  the  rapid  river.  10  -  12  M.  from  the  bay  are  the  ex- 
tensive deposits  of  magnetic  iron-ore  whic.'i  were  explored  by  order  of  Intendant 
Talon,  a  cen#lry  and  a  half  ago.  In  the  npper  part  of  tlit>  valley,  9  M.  from  St. 
Paul's  Bay,  is  St.  Urbain,  a  French  Catholic  village  of  about  1,000  inhabitants.  IJy 
this  route  tlie  tri-weekly  Royal  mail-stages  ero.^-s  to  Chieoutinii,on  the  upper  Sague- 
nay  (see  page  300).  St.  Placvle  (Clairvaux)  is  also  back  of  St.  Paurr Bay,  and  has 
400  Inhabitants. 

"  In  all  the  miles  of  country  I  had  pas.sed  over,  I  had  seen  nothing  to  equal  the 
exquisite  beauty  of  the  Vale  of  Bale  St.  Paul.  From  the  hill  on  which  we  stood, 
the  whole  valley,  of  many  miles  in  extent,  was  visible.  It  was  perfectly  level,  and 
covered  from  end  to  end  with  little  hauilet.s,  and  .several  churches,  with  here  and 

there  a  few  small  patches  of  forest Like'  the  Happy  Valley  of  Rasselas,  it  was 

surrounded  by  the  most  wild  and  rugged  mountains,  which  ro.'^e  in  endless  succes- 
sion one  behind  the  other,  stretching  away  in  the  distance,  till  they  resembled  a 
faint  blue  wave  in  the  horizon."   (Rai.l.vxtvnk. 

"  Nothing  can  be  more  pictun>sque  tlian  the  land.scapc  which  may  be  viewed  from 
the  crest  of  Cap  an  Corbeavi  Have  you  courage  to  clamber  uj)  the  long  slopes  of 
Cap  au  Corbeau ;  to  see  the  white-sailed  schooners  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  ;  to 
comprehend  the  thousand  divers  objects  at  your  feet ;  the  sinuous  course  of  the 
Mar^  and  of  the  serpentine  Gouffh; ;  on  the  S.  the  old  mansions  and  rich  pas- 
tures ;  to  see  the  church  and  convent  and  the  village,  the  Cap  iV  la  Rey,  the  bottom 
of  the  bay ;  and,  farther  away,  the  shores  of  St.  Antoine  Perou,  St.  Jerome,  St. 
John,  St.  Joseph,  and  St.  Flavien  ? "'   (Trudelle.) 

The  Bay  was  settled  early  in  the  17th  century,  and  has  always  been  noted  for  its 


(( 


Tadousao 
»e  French 
Normans 
lore.  The 

anrt  dark 

u V  by  the 

nsVd  their 

time  were 


or  passes 
ley  of  the 
is  ])iisse(l 
St.  Taul's 

iiiits,  pUu- 
ill  Frei  ch, 
lie  Gonffre 
.met-rock, 
'  no  parish 
ist."     The 
rried  away 
le  summer 
and  Joseph 


ISLE  AUX  C0UDRE3. 


JloHte  79.      293 


[how  distant 
Iks    In  1T91 
•  many  days, 
)f  smoke  and 
al  days.   The 
nie  valley  of 
aversod  by  a 
ly  are  the  ex- 
of  Intendant 
i)  M.  from  St. 
abitants.    By 
upper  Sague- 
Uay.and  has 

J  to  eqvial  the 
ich  we  stood, 
•tly  level,  and 
kith  here  and 
.asseUis,  it  was 
■ndU'SS  succes- 
rcsembled  a 

)e  viewed  from 
.ong  slopes  of 
)f  the  bay  ;  to 
course  of  the 
and  rich  pas- 
;y ,  the  bottom 
t.' Jerome,  St. 


3n 


noted  for  its 


earthquakes  and  volcanic  disturbances.  In  Octob<>r,  1870,  it  felt  such  a  severe 
Rhnck  that  nearly  every  house  in  the  valley  was  damaged.  In  17r)9  the  viilaKo  waa 
destroyed  by  Oorhanrs  N<>w-Kn^lanil  llangi'rs,  attcr  tli(t  inhabituntM  had  defended 
It  for  two  hourH. 

"  Above  the  (lulph  I  have  just  mentioned  is  tlui  Hay  <tf  St.  Paul,  Where  the  IIah< 
Ifations  befjin  on  the  Nortii  Side* ;  and  thi-rc  are  snm«!  \Vo«k1s  of  IMne-Tn-es,  which 
are  much  valued  ;  Heru  arc  also  snin«'  red  IMiies  of  ^nMit  Beauty.  MenHrn.  of  tho 
Beiniiiary  of  (.Quebec  are  lionls  of  this  Bay.  Six  li«'aj?u('«  hi^lier,  ther»»  in  a  very 
hi^h  I'romontory,  which  terminates  a  Chain  of  Mountains,  which  extend  above  400 
liea^ues  to  the  West ;  It  is  called  (!ape  Tnurmmtf  probably  because  he  that  g<ive  it 
this  Name,  sulTered  here  by  ;i  ISust  of  Wind.'"    ((Wi.^rlkvoix.) 

The  \V.  promontory  of  St.  I'auTs  Hay  is  ('ape  I,abaie  ;  that  on  the  E  ,  opposite 
the  Isle  aux  Coudn^«^,  i.s  Cnpe  Cnrh'ttii.  "  This  cap«^  haw  something  nf  the  uugestic 
and  of  the  mournful.  At  a  Htfle  distance  it  mijcht  be  taken  for  one  of  the  immense 
tombs  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  Kp:yptian  deserts  hy  the  vanity  of  some  puny 
mortal.  A  cloud  of  birds,  children  of  storm,  wheel  continually  about  its  flr- 
crowned  brow,  and  seem,  by  their  sinister  croaking,  to  intone  the  funeral  of  some 
dying  man/' 

Between  St.  Paul's  Hay  and  tho  Isle  aux  Coudre.s  Is  the  whirlpool 
called  Le  Goitffi\\  where  the  water  suddenly  attains  a  depth  of  30  fath- 
oms, and  at  eld)-ti(le  the  outer  currents  are  re|)ulsed  from  Coudres  to  Cor- 
beau  in  wide  svvlrHn<^  eddies.  It  Is  said  that  before  the  Gouffre  begsui  to 
fill  with  sand  schooners  which  were  cauf^ht  in  these  eddies  described  a 
series  of  spiral  curves,  the  last  of  whiidi  landed  them  on  the  rocks.  It 
was  the  most  dreaded  point  on  this  shore,  and  many  lives  were  lost  here; 
but  Its  navij^ation  is  now  safe  and  ea.sy. 

The  Isle  auz  Coudres  is  5i  M.  long  and  2i  M.  wide,  and  is  a  charm- 
ing remnant  of  primitive  Norman  life.  It  has  about  800  Inhabitants,  e  - 
gaged  in  farming,  and  more  purely  medloeval  French  than  any  other 
people  in  Canada.  The  houses  are  mostly  along  the  lines  of  tlie  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  shores;  and  the  Church  of  St.  Louis  is  on  tho  S.  W.  point. 
The  island  Is  still  owned  by  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  to  .'  l.ich  it  was 
granted  in  1687.  Large  numbers  of  porpoises  are  caught  between  th's 
point  and  the  Riviere  Ouelle,  on  the  S.  shore.  Bayard  Taylor  says: 
*'The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  a  beautiful  pastoral  mosaic  in  the  j^ale  emerald 
setting  of  the  river." 

Off  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  between  that  point  and  Riviere  Ouelle,  great  num- 
bers of  white  whales  are  caught,  in  flsh-pounds  made  for  the  purpo.se.  The.se  fish 
(often  taken  for  porpoises)  live  in  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  from  April  to  October, 
when  they  migrate  to  the  Gulf  and  the  Arctic  Ocean.  Tiiey  are  from  14  to  22  ft. 
in  length,  and  yield  100-120  gallons  of  flue  oil,  which  U  much  used  for  lighthou.se 
purpo -cs,  because  it  does  not  freeze  in  winter.  A  valuable  leather  is  made  firom 
their  skins. 

When  Cartier  was  advancing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1535,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Quebec  Indians  whom  he  had  abductetl  from  (Jasp  ,  he  landed  on  this  island, 
and,  marvelling  at  tho  numerous  hazel-trees  upon  tije  hill.*',  n.'uned  it  U Isle  aux 
Coudres  (Hazel-tree  Lsland).  This  point  he  made  the  divi'^ion  between  the  country 
of  S.iguenay  and  that  of  Canada.  "  In  10")3  an  Kartlujuake  rooted  up  a  Mountain, 
and  threw  it  upon  the  Islo  of  Coitrlrei,  which  was  made  one  half  largt^r  than  before, 
and  in  the  Place  of  the  Mountain  there  appeared  a  Gulf,  which  it  is  not  safe  to 
approach." 

The  islt.nd  was  deserted  by  Its  inhabitants  in  the  summer  of  1759,  when  great 
British  fleets  were  anchored  off  the  shores,  but  several  boats'  crews  were  driven 
from  the  strand  by  rangers.   Three  British  officers  landed  on  the  islei  carrying  a  flag 


I'l 


• 


tj 
'I 


m 


iill 


1 


294      Route  72. 


MURRAt  BAY. 


1 


f 


which  they  were  about  to  raiae  on  the  chief  eminence  before  the  fleet ;  but  they 
were  cut  off  by  a  small  party  of  Canadians,  and  were  led  prisoners  to  Quebec.  Ad- 
miral Durell  first  reached  the  island,  with  10  frigates,  and  captured  3  French  ves- 
sels bearing  1,800  barrels  of  powder. 

The  steamer  runs  S.  E.  for  )<everal  miles  in  the  narrow  channel  between 
the  Isle  aux  Coudres  and  the  mountains  of  the  N.  Shore.  At  11  M  from 
St.  Paul's  Bay  it  rounds  in  at  the  pier  (920  ft.  long)  of  the  parifjh  of  Les 
Eboulements,  a  farming  district  of  2.400  inhabitants.  "  High  on  the 
crest  of  the  Laurentides,  old  as  the  world,  the  tourist  sees  on  the  N.,  on 
hinding  at  the  Eboulements  pier,  the  handsome  parish-church."  The  situa- 
tion of  this  village  is  one  of  the  most  quaint  and  charming  on  the  river, 
and  overlooks  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  leagues.  The  white  houses  are 
grouped  snugly  about  the  tall  Notre  Dame  Church,  above  which  the  dark 
peak  of  Mt.  l^boulements  rises  to  the  height  of  2,547  ft. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Les  Eboulements  are  visible  the  tracks  of  the  great  land-slides 
of  1663,  in  that  season  when  so  many  marvellous  phenomena  were  seen  in  Canada. 
The  8t.  Lawrence  ran  "  white  as  milk,"  as  far  down  as  Tadousac  ;  ranges  of  hills  were 
thrown  down  into  the  river,  or  were  swallowed  up  in  the  plains  ;  earthquakes  shat- 
tered the  houses  and  shook  the  trees  until  the  Indians  said  that  the  forests  were 
drunk  ;  vast  fissures  opened  in  the  ground  ;  and  the  courses  of  streams  were  changed. 
Meteors,  fiery-winged  serpents,  and  ghastly  spectres  were  seen  in  the  air;  roarings 
and  mysterious  voices  s'-nnded  on  every  side;  and  the  confessionals  of  all  the 
churches  were  crowded  with  penitents,  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  the  huge  mass  of  Mt.  Eboulements,  passing  the 
rugged  spurs  called  Goose  Cape  and  Cape  Corneille.  On  the  E.  .«loi)e  is 
seen  the  large  village  of  81.  Irenee,  where  900  French  people  preserve  their 
ancient  customs  and  language.  A  few  miles  farther  E.  the  steamer  rounds 
in  at  Murray  Hay. 

Murray  Bay  is  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  the  N.  Shore,  and  has 
fine  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing,  with  a  long  firm  beach.  It  is  also 
one  of  the  best  fishing-centres  in  the  Province,  and  sjiortsmen  meet  with 
success  in  the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Murray  h'iver,  or  the  Gravel  and 
Petit  Lakes.  The  steam.n*  stops  at  the  long  wharf  at  Point  a  Pi(/ne,  near 
which  are  the  hotels,  frt'queftted  in  summer  by  many  Quebec  families,  who 
enjoy  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  adjacent  country.  There  are  also  sum- 
mer cottages  about  the  base  of  Cap  h  t'Aif/le.  The  tourists  occupy  Point 
h  Pique,  and  make  excursions  to  tlie  lakos  and  the  falls,  the  Trou,  Frazer 
Falls,  the  Chute,  etc  The  French  tnwn  is  .'J  M.  VI.,  at  the  Murraj'-River 
bridge,  about  the  grent  church  and  court-house  of  Charlevoix  Count}'.  It 
has  ;},00()  inhabitants.  Head  Annie  Howelis  Frccln'tte's  jiapor  in  Harper's 
Afdfjiizine,  .July,  1884.     Chaniard's  Lome  House  is  the  thief  hotel. 

"  Of  all  the  pictun^sque  parishos  on  the  shore  of  our  grand  river,  to  which  innu- 
merable swarms  of  touri.^rs  go  every  suum.cr  to  take  tlie  waters,  none  will  interest 
the  lover  of  sublime  landscapes  more  than  Malbaie.  One  must  go  there  to  enjoy  the 
rugged,  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the  broad  horizons,  lie  will  not  find  here  the  beau- 
tiful wheat-fields  of  Kaniouraska,  the  pretty  and  verdurous  jiliores  of  Cacouna  or 
Rimouski,  where  the  languorous  citizen  goes  to  strengthen  his  energies  during  the 
dog-days;  hereissavnge  and  unconquered  nature, and  view-points  }et  more  majes- 
tic than  those  of  the  coasts  and  walls  of  Bic.  Pncipioe  on  precipice  ;  impenetrable 
gurgt^  in  the  projections  of  the  rocks  ;  peaks  which  lose  themselves  in  the  clouds, 
aud  among  which  the  bears  wander  through  July,  in  search  of  berries;  where  the 


"gl 


'ngl 
hilLl 
68).r 


RIVlteRE  DU   LOUP. 


RouU  72,      295 


t  they 
s.  Ad- 
;h  ves- 

jtween 
I   from 
of  Les 
on  the 
5  N.,  on 
e  8itun- 
e  river, 
uses  are 
;he  (lark 

and-slifles 
1  Canada, 
hills  were 
takes  shat- 
rests  were 
e  changed. 
;  roarings 
of  all  the 

fissing  the 
I.  ploj^  is 
serve  their 
ler  rounds 

and  has 
It  is  also 
meet  with 
Iravel  and 
'i'lm^  near 
nilies,  who 
also  8um- 
cupy  Point 
rou,  Frazer 
Tray-River 
:ounty.    It 
J  Harper's 
)tel. 

which  innu- 
will  Intert'Ht 
e  to  onjoy  tl\o 
lore  the  beau- 
f  OiKOuna  <1T 
jH  (luring  the 
,  more  uiBiJeB- 
impcnetrable 
in  the  cloudB, 
bb;  where  the 


caribou  browses  In  September ;  where  the  solitary  crow  and  the  royal  eagle  make 
their  nests  in  May  ;  in  short,  alpine  landscapes,  the  pathless  highlands  of  Scotland, 
a  Byronic  nature,  tossed  about,  heapetl  up  in  the  North,  far  from  the  ways  of  civ- 
ilized men.  near  a  volcano  that  from  time  to  time  awakens  and  shake-"  the  country  in 
a  manner  to  frighten,  but  not  to  endanger,  the  roni;intic  inhabitants.  .\ccordJng  to 
some,  in  order  to  enjov  all  the  fulness  of  these  austere  Vxjauties,  one  must  be  at  the 
privileged  epoch  of  life.  If  then  you  wish  to  taste,  in  their  full  fejitures,  thedreiimy 
solitudes  of  the  shores,  t!ie  grottos,  the  great  forests  of  l*oint  a  IMfiue  or  (^^ap  .i 
I'Aigle,  or  to  capture  by  hundreds  the  frisking  trout  of  the  remote  Gnivel  I.Ake,you 
must  have  a  good  eye,  a  well-nerved  arm,  and  a  supple  leg  "     (LkMdlnk.  ) 

This  district  was  formerly  known  as  the  King's  Farm,  and  had  31  houses  at  the 
conquest  of  Canada.  It  was  then  granted  to  tlie  Scottish  officers,  Major  Nairn  and 
Malcom  Fraser,  who  soon  promoted  its  settlement.  It  was  explored  in  June,  1G08, 
by  Champlain,  who  named  it  Malle  Bale,  on  account  of  "  the  tide  which  runs  t'tero 
marvellously,  and,  even  though  the  weather  is  calm,  thebiy  is  greatly  moved.''  It 
is  still  generally  known  as  Malba:e,  though  the  English  use  the  name  Murrav  Bay, 
given  in  honor  of  the  generil  who  granted  it  to  the  Scots.  The  Sc'>t<*h  families 
brought  out  by  Fra.ser  and  Nairn  are  now  French  in  language  and  customs.  A 
depot  for  American  pri.<oners-of-war  wius  established  here  in  1776.  near  the  Nairn 
manor-house,  and  the  barracks  were  built  by  the  captives  themselves. 

The  great  French  settlement  of  St.  A^nex,  with  1,600  inhabitants,  is  9  M.  W.  of 
Murray  Bay,  up  the  valley,  and  on  the  verge  of  the  wide  wilderness  of  the  Crown 
Lands.  A  rugged  road  follows  the  N.  shore  from  Murray  Bay  to  the  Saguenay 
River,  a  distance  of  about  40  M.,  pas.sing  the  romantic  St.  Fidcile  (9  M.  out ;  1,000 
inhabitants),  the  lumbering  village  of  Port  au  Persil,  the  hamlets  of  Black  lliver, 
Port  aux  Quilles,  St.  Simeon,  and  Calli''re,  back  of  which  are  mountains  where 
many  moose  and  caribou  are  found.  Still  farther  E.  is  Baie  des  Rochers,  on  an 
island-studded  bay. 

The  steamer  now  stretches  out  across  the  river  in  a  diafronal  cotirse  of 
30  M.,  the  direction  being  about  X.  E.  The  river  is  about  20  M.  wide, 
and  tlie  steamer  soon  comes  in  sight  of  tlie  Kamouraska  Islands  (see  page 
252),  on  the  1.,  and  tlien  passes  between  Hare  Ish\nd  (i.)  and  the  Pil- 
grims. Tlie  vessel  soon  reaches  the  long  pier  at  Paint  a  BeouUeu,  3  M. 
from  Riviere  du  Loup. 

Bivi^re  du  Loup  {*La  Rochelle  Ilonse;  a~id  several  largo  summer 
boarding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  village  of  4,500  in]ial)itants,  occupying 
a  fine  position  on  a  hillside  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Tliero  aro  some 
pretty  villas  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  great  church  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  is  a  prominent  landmark  for  miles.  About  3  >r.  up  the  river  arc  the 
famous  *  RivikrcMlu-Loup  F(dls,  near  the  new  and  massive  bridge  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway.  Tiie  stream  hero  plunges  over  a  cliff  about  80  ft. 
high,  and  then  rests  quietly  in  a  broad  pool  below.  The  views  of  the 
river  and  its  islands  and  shipping,  from  tho  streets  of  the  village,  aro 
broad  and  beautiful;  anil  many  summer  visitors  pass  their  vacations 
here,  finding  comfortable  accommodations  in  tho  boarding-houses.  The 
Temiscouata  road  runs  S.  K.  from  this  point  into  New  Briinswick.  cross- 
ing numerous  trout-streams  and  leading  through  a  «leso!ate  region  of 
hills.  Its  first  point  of  interest  is  the  long  Tmniscouata  Luke  (see  page 
68). 

lUvi^redu  Loup  will  soon  be  one  of  the  chief  railway -<'entr«8  of  Canada.  It  has 
been  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Uraud  Trunk  lino  fur  years.    The  lotercolonial  is  now 


I 


'I 


296      Route  72. 


CACOUNA. 


well  and  surely  completed  from  this  point  to  St.  John  and  Halifax,  and  the  New- 
Brunswick  Railway  has  ucuu  pushed  hitherward  up  the  St.  John  Valley  (see  page 
63). 

This  domain  was  jjrantcd  by  the  Compagnie  des  Tndes  Oceidentales  to  the  Sieur 
de  la  Chesnoye  in  1673.  It  is  said  that  its  name  is  derived  from  tlie  fact  that  in 
former  years  great  droves  of  ^eals  {loup.s-warins)  frequented  the  shoals  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  making  a  remarkable  uproar  at  night. 

A  persistent  attempt  has  been  made  to  oall  this  town  FraserviUf ,  in  honor  of  the 
Frasers,  who  are  its  reigniors  The  numerous  Frasers  of  this  Province  met  at 
Quebec  in  186h  to  re-forr.  their  ancient  Scottish  clan  organization,  and  to  name 
Provincial,  county,  and  parish  chieftains.  The  head-chief  is  entitled  The  Fraser, 
and  is  the  Hon.  John  Fraser  de  Kerry,  "  68th  descendant  of  Jules  de  Kerry,  a  rich 
and  powerful  lord,  who  gave  a  sumptuous  feast  to  the  Emperor  Charlemagne  and 
his  numerous  suite,  at  his  castle  in  Normandy,  in  the  8th  century  *'  The  solemn 
Scots  maintain  that  De  Kerry  then  regaled  Charlemagne  with  strsiwberries  {/raises, 
in  the  French  language),  and  that  the  Emperor  was  so  greatly  pleased  that  he 
ordered  that  he  shouhl  thenceforth  be  known  as  Fraiser  de  Berry,  and  from  him  the 
Clan  Fraser  traces  its  name  and  descent. 

Cacouna  is  6  M.  from  Rivl6re  dii  Loup,  and  is  the  chief  summer  resort 
of  Canada.  The  *  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  the  most  fasliiouable  hotel,  and 
accommodates  600  guests,  at  $2.50-3  a  day.  Tlie  Mansion  House  charges 
$1.50  a  day,  and  accommodates  150  guests.  There  are  several  summer 
boarding-houses  whose  rates  are  still  lower.  The  traveller  who  visits 
Cacouna  from  Hiviere  du  Loup  must  be  on  his  guard  against  the  extortions 
of  the  carriage-drivrrs,  who  frequently  demand  exorbitant  fares. 

Twenty  years  ago  Cacouna  was  nothing;  it  is  now  filled  with  great  ho- 
tels and  boarding-houses,  and  adorned  with  many  summer  cottages.  It  is 
visited  by  thousands  of  Canadians,  and  also  by  many  Americans  "fuyant 
le  ciel  corrosif  de  New- York."  Here  may  be  seen  tfce  Anglo-Canadian 
girls,  who  are  said  to  combine  the  physical  beauty  and  strength  of  the 
Enfflish  ladies  with  the  vivacity  and  brilliancv  of  the  Americans.  The 
amusements  of  the  village  are  like  those  of  similar  places  farther  S., — 
sea-bathing  and  fishirg,  driving,  and  balls  which  extend  into  the  .small 
hours.  The  beach  is  good,  and  the  river-views  from  the  heights  are  of 
famed  beauty.  There  is  a  pretty  lake  back  among  the  hills,  where  many 
trout  are  found. 

The  great  specialties  of  Cacouna  are  its  pure  cool  air  and  brilliant  north- 
ern scenery.  It  is  sometimes  found  too  'cold,  even  in  August,  during 
rainy  weather,  for  the  American  visitors,  who  then  Imrrv  away  in  crowds. 
The  peninsula  of  Cacouna  is  a  rcinarkablo  mass  of  rock,  nearly  400  ft. 
high,  which  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  low  isthmus.  Its  name 
was  given  by  the  Imlians,  in  allusion  to  its  form,  and  signifies  "the  tur- 
tle." The  village  is  French,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  and  Anglican,  Meth- 
odist, and  lionum  (Jatholic  churches.  4^  M.  distant  is  tlie  populous  jjurish 
of  ^'^  Aniney  and  8  M.  S.  is  ^7.  Modiste. 

trom  Kiviere  du  Loup  the  stcatner  runs  across  to  the  Saguenay  River, 
passing  within  3-4  M-  of  Cacouna,  and  ruuuiug  between  the  lirandy  Pots 
(1.)  and  Red  Island  (see  page  252). 
The  Sagueaay  Biver,  t>eu  Route  73. 


t^' 


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THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER.        Route  73.      297 


73.   The  Sagnenay  River. 

Steamers  leaTe  Quebec  for  Chicoutimi,  the  farthest  port  on  the  Saguenay,  on 
Tuesday  and  Friday,  at  7  A  M.  (see  page  291) :  and  for  lla  ILi  Bay  on  Wednesday, 
Thursday,  and  Saturday.  They  reach  Tadousac  by  nightfall,  and  start  on  the  re- 
turn from  Chicoutimi  the  next  morning. 

Dlstanceg.  —  Quebec  to  Tadousac,  134  M. ;  Tadousac  to  Rivii'-re  St.  Marguerite, 
15;  St.  Louis  Islets,  19;  Riviere  aux  Canards,  23;  Little  ."^a^uenay  River,  27;  St. 
John's  Bay,  32  ;  Eternity  Hay.  41 ;  Trinity  Bay,  48  ;  Cape  Rouge,  r)6  ;  Cape  Ejist, 
63;  Capt?  West,  65 ;  St.  Alphonse,  72  ;  St.  Fulgence,  95:  Chicuutinii,  1(X).  This 
itinerary  is  bailed  on  that  of  the  stonnship  company  and  is  not  correct,  but  will  be 
u.^eful  in  marking  approximations  to  the  relative  distances  lietween  the  points  on 
the  river.  There  is  no  other  tiible  of  distances  accessible.  lniray"s  Sailing  Direc- 
tions (precise  authority )  says  that  it  is  tio  M.  from  the  St.  Ijawrcnce  to  Chicoutimi. 

The  **  Saguenay  Biver  is  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lake  St.  .loiin,  into  which  11  rivers 
fall.  For  the  last  60  M.  of  its  course  the  stream  is  from  1  to  2^  M.  wide, 
and  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by  lofty  precipices  of  syenite  and  gneiss, 
which  impinge  directly  on  the  shores,  and  are  dotted  with  stunted  trees. 
Along  their  slopes  are  the  deep  I'nes  of  glacial  striations,  telling  of  the 
passage  of  formidable  icebergs  down  this  chasm.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
100  fathoms  lower  than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  difterence  which  is 
sharply  marked  at  the  point  of  confluence.  The  shores  were  stripped  of 
their  forests  by  a  great  fire,  in  1810,  but  there  are  large  numbers  of  hemlock 
and  birch  trees  in  the  neighboring  glens.  The  river  is  frozen  from  the  St. 
Louis  Isles  to  Chicoutimi  during  half  the  year,  and  snow  remains  on  the 
hills  until  June.  The  awful  majesty  of  its  unbroken  mountain-shores,  the 
profound  depth  of  its  waters,  the  absence  of  life  through  many  leagues  of 
distance,  have  made  the  Saguenay  unique  among  rivers,  and  it  is  yearly 
visited  by  thousands  of  tourists  as  one  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  the  West- 
ern World. 

"  The  Saguenay  is  not,  properly,  a  river.  It  h  a  tremendous  chasm,  like  that  of 
the  Jordan  Valley  and  the  Dead  Sea,  cleft  for  60  M  through  the  heart  of  a  mounUin 

wilderness No  magical  illusions  of  atmosph<'re  enwrap  the  scenery  of  this 

northern  river.  Everything  is  hard,  naked,  stern,  silent.  Dark-gray  cliffs  of  granitic 
gneiss  rise  f^'Oin  tl»e  pitch-black  water  ;  firs  of  gloomy  green  are  rooted  in  th<!ir  crev- 
ices and  fringe  their  summits  ;  loftier  ranges  of  a  dull  indigo  hue  show  themselves 
in  the  background,  and  over  all  bends  a  pale,  coM,  northern  sky.  The  keen  air, 
which  bring''  out  every  object  with  a  crystalline  di?<tinctness,  even  contr.icts  the  di- 
mensions of  the  scenery,  diminishes  the  height  of  the  dilTs,  and  apparently  belittle^) 
the  nijyesty  of  the  river,  so  that  the  first  fwling  is  one  of  disappointment.  Still,  it 
exercises  a  fascination  which  you  cannot  resist  You  look,  and  Inok,  fettered  by  the 
fresh,  novel,  savage  stunp  which  nature  exhibits,  and  at  list,  as  in  St.  I'eter's  or  at 
Niagara,  learn  from  the  character  of  the  separate  features  to  appreciate  the  grandeur 
of  the  whole Steivdily  upwards  we  went,  the  windings  of  tlie  river  and  \U  vary- 
ing breadth  —  from  i  M.  to  ne:irly  2  M.  —  giving  us  a  shifting  succession  of  trie 
grandest  pictures.  Shores  that  .seiMned  roughly  piled  together  out  of  the  fri<rmentj) 
of  chaos  overhung  us,  —  grc  it  masses  of  rock,  gleaming  duskily  through  their  scanty 
drapery  of  evergreens,  here  lifting  long  irregular  walls  against  the  sky,  there  split 
into  huge,  fantastic  forms  by  dwp  lateral  gorges,  up  which  we  saw  the  dark-blue 
crests  of  loftier  mountains  in  the  rear.  Tlie  water  beneatli  us  was  black  as  niglit, 
with  a  pitchy  glaze  on  its  surface;  and  the  only  life  in  nil  the  savage  solitude  wjw, 

now  and  then,  the  V»ack  of  a  whit^  porpoise,  in  some  of  the  deeper  coves The 

river  is  a  reproduction  —  truly  on  a  contracted  scale  —  of  the  fiords  of  the  Norwegian 

13* 


ii 


M 


298      Route  73.        THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

coast The  dark  mountains,  the  tremendous  precipices,  the  fir  forests,  eveii  the 

settlements  at  Ha  Ha  Buy  and  L''AnRe  i*.  I'Eau  (except  that  the  housen  are  wliite  in- 
stead of  red)  are  as  completely  Norwegian  as  th^y  can  be.  The  Scandinavian  skip- 
pers who  come  to  (Janada  all  notice  this  resemblance,  and  many  of  them,  I  learn, 
settle  here."    (Bat.\rd  Taylor.) 

*'  From  Ha  Ha  rij?ht  down  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  you  see  nothing  but  the  cold, 
black,  gloomy  Sagucnay,  rolling  between  two  Htraight  lines  of  rocky  hills  that  rise 
steeply  from  the  water's  edge.  These  hills,  though  steep,  are  generally  roughly 
rounded  in  shape,  and  not  abrupt  or  faced  with  precipices.  This  n.akes  the  scenery 
differ  from  that  with  which  it  has  been  often  compared,  the  boldest  of  the  fiords  of 
Norway.  Over  the  rujrgid  hills  of  the  Saguenay  there  is  geiicrally  enough  of  earth 
here  and  there  lodged  to  let  the  gray  rock  be  dotted  over  with  a  dark-green  sprink- 
ling of  pine-trees.  Perhaps  theix;  is  hardly  a  spot  on  the  Sa^fuenay,  which,  taken  by 
itself,  would  not  impress  any  lover  of  wild  nature  by  its  grandeur,  and  even  sublimity  ; 
but  after  sailing  for  70  miles  downwards,  passing  rocky  hill  after  rocky  hill,  risingone 
beyond  the  other  in  monotonously  straight  lines  alongside  of  you ;  .  .  .  .  after  vainly 
longing  for  some  bn'ak  in  thei-e  t%vin  imprisoniug  walls,  which  might  allow  the  eye 
the  relief  of  wandering  over  an  expan.'-e  of  country,  —  you  will  begin  to  compare  the 

Saguenay  in  no  kindly  spirit  to  the  Rhine It  is  a  cold,  savage,  inhuman  river, 

fit  to  take  rank  with  Styx  and  Acheron  ;  and,  into  tlie  bargain,  it  is  dull.  For  the 
whole  70  miles,  you  will  not  be  likely  to  see  any  living  thing  on  it  or  near  it,  outside 
of  your  own  steamer,  not  a  house,  nor  a  field,  nor  a  sign  of  any  sort  that  living 
things  have  ever  been  there."     (White  ) 

•'  Sunlight  and  clear  sky  are  out  of  place  over  its  black  waters.  Anything  which 
recalls  the  life  and  smile  of  nature  is  not  in  uni.'^^on  with  the  huge  naked  cliiT«'.,  raw, 
cold,  and  silent  as  the  tombs.  An  Italian  spring  could  elTect  no  change  in  the 
deadly,  rugged  aspect ;  nor  does  winter  add  one  iota  to  its  mournful  desolation.  It 
is  with  a  sense  of  relief  that  tlie  tourist  emerges  from  its  sullen  gloom,  and  looks 
back  upon  it  as  a  kind  of  vault,  —  Nature's  sarcophagus,  where  life  or  sound  seems 
never  to  have  entered.  Compared  to  it  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  look  cosey  and  smiling.  It  is  wild  without  the  least  variety,  and  grand 
apparently  in  spite  of  itself  ;  while  so  utter  is  the  solitude,  so  dreary  and  monoto- 
nous the  frown  of  its  great  black  walls  of  rock,  that  the  tourist  is  sure  to  get  impa- 
tient with  its  sullen  dead  reverse,  till  he  feels  almost  an  antipathy  to  its  very  name. 
The  Saguenay  seems  to  want  painting,  blowing  up,  or  draining,  —  anything,  in 
short,  to  alter  its  morose,  quiet,  eternal  awe.  Talk  of  Lethe  or  the  Styx,  —  they 
must  have  been  purling  brooks  compared  with  this  savage  river  ;  and  a  picnic  on  the 
banks  of  either  would  be  preferable  to  one  on  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay."  {London 
Times.) 

On  Sept.  1, 1586,  Tadousac  was  visited  by  the  wor.d§r-loving  Cartier,  with  three 
vessels.  He  saw  the  Indians  fishing  off  shore,  and  reported  that,  "  in  ascending  the 
Saguenay,  you  reach  a  country  where  there  are  men  dressed  like  us,  who  live  in 
cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  cojiper."  The  river  was  visited  by  Roberval 
In  1543,  and  part  of  the  expedition  was  lost.  Thenceforward  the  country  of  the 
Saguenay  was  explored  liy  the  fur-traders  and  the  fearless  Jesuits.  In  1(03  Tadou- 
sac was  visited  by  Champlain,  around  whose  vessel  the  natives  crowded  in  their  canoes 
in  order  to  sell  or  barter  away  thtir  peltiies.  {''even  years  later  a  ."-olemn  and  beau- 
tiful scene  occurred  at  Point  la  IJoule  (the  immense  promontory  which  is  seen  5 
M.  up-strcnm),  when  Champlain  and  Lesearbot  attended  the  great  council  of  the 
Montaignais.  They  were  n-ceived  with  dignified  courtesy  by  the  Sagamore  Anada- 
bijou,  and  conducted  to  the  meeting  of  tlie  warriors,  where  several  grave  and 
eloquent  speeches  were  made  while  the  pipe  of  peace  WJis  passed  around.  The 
Montaignais  at  that  time  numbered  9  tribes,  '2  of  which  dwelt  along  the  river,  and 
the  other  7  occupied  the  vast  area  towards  Hudf  (in's  Bay  and  the  land  of  the  Esqui- 
maux. Their  last  Sagamore,  Simeon,  died  in  1849,  and  had  no  successor,  and  the 
p(Mir  remnant  of  the  nation  now  obtains  a  precarious  living  by  beggary,  or  has  with- 
drawn into  the  ffistnes.'-es  of  the  Nortli.  The  jiresent  name  of  the  river  is  a  modifi- 
cation of  the  original  Indian  word  Snggish^^kuss,  which  means  "a  river  whose 
banks  are  pn^cipitous." 

In  1671  the  heroic  and  self-abnegating  Jesuit,  Pcre  de  Crepiei'l,  feunded  the  mis- 
sion at  Tadousac,  where  he  remained  for  2t)  jears,  paj^sing  the  winters  in  the 
wretched  huts  of  the  savages.    Before  this  time  (in  1661)  the  Fathers  Druillettes  and 


the 

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TADOUSAC. 


Routers.  '  299 


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ling  which 
cUi>,  raw, 
nge  in  the 
ilation.     It 
,  and  looks 
jund  peems 
the  wildest 
and  grand 
nd  nionoto- 
to  get  impar 
vt-ry  name, 
ny thing,  in 
ityx,-they 
)icnic  on  tue 
.  "  {^London 


r^with  three 
uceiidiug  the 
,  who  live  »n 
bv  Roherval 
nnitry  of  the 
1  K  03  Tadou- 
n  their  canoes 
mn  and  beau- 
lich  is  seen  5 
council  of  the 
■uniore  Auadar 
ral  grave  and 
around.    The 
the  river,  and 
,1  of  the  Ksqui- 
cossor,  and  the 
v ,  or  has  with- 
Ver  is  a  modin- 
11  river  whose 

uiuled  the  nils- 
V  ill  tors  in  the 
Druillettes  and 


Dablou  had  ascended  the  river  to  Lake  St.  John  and  there  had  baptized  many  Tn- 
dianfl,  and  founded  the  misHion  of  St.  Fran(^oi.s  Xtivier.  The  Montai^^nais  are  still 
in  the  Catholic  faith,  and  each  family  has  its  prajer-hook  and  breviary,  in  which 
they  are  able  to  read.  In  1671  Father  Albanel  ascended  the  Saguenay  from  Tadou- 
sac,  by  order  of  Intendant  Bigot,  and  passed  N.  to  IIudson'.s  Bay  by  way  of  the 
great  lakes  of  St.  John  and  Miatassini.  The  country  about  the  Up|wr  S;igupiiay  was 
then  well  known  to  the  zealous  churchmen,  but  after  the  decline  of  the  missions  it 
was  forgotten.  About  60  years  ago  the  Canadian  government  had  it  re-explored  by 
efficient  officers,  and  this  remote  region  is  now  being  occupied  by  French-CJanadian 
hamlets.  The  chief  business  on  the  river  is  the  exportation  of  lumt)er,  which  is 
shipped  from  Chicoutimi  in  immense  quantities. 

Tadousao  is  a  small  village,  prettily  situated  on  a  semicircular  terrace 
suiTounded  with  mountains  and  fronting  on  a  small  liarbor,  deep  and 
secure.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here  about  24  M.  wide,  and  the  mountains 
of  the  S.  shore  are  visible,  while  on  clear  days  the  view  includes  the  white 
villages  of  Cacouna  and  Riviere  du  Loup.  The  *  Taclousnc  Hotel  ($2.50  a 
day)  is  a  spacious  establishment  on  the  blurt'  over  the  bcjich.  It  was 
founded  in  1865  by  a  joint-stock  company,  and  has  been  successful.  The 
sea-bathing  is  very  good,  although  the  water  is  cold,  and  sea-trout  are 
caught  off  the  shore.  The  old  buildings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  near  the  hotel,  and  on  the  lawn  before  them  is  a  battery  of  antiquated 
4-pounders.  E.  of  the  hotel  is  the  old  *  ciiapel  of  the  Jesuit  mission, 
which  was  erected  in  1746  on  ne  s'te  of  a  still  more  ancient  church.  The 
summer  cottages  are  near  the  shore,  and  are  cheerful  little  buildings.  The 
Earl  of  Dnfferin,  late  Govornnr-Geufral  of  Canada,  erected  a  handsome 
house  here.  The  scenery  of  the  landward  environs  is  described  in  the 
Indian  word  Tadousac,  which  means  knobs  or  mamelons. 

*'  Tadousac  is  placed,  like  a  nest,  in  the  midst  of  the  granite  rocks  that  surround 
the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  The  chapels  and  the  buildings  of  the  post  occupy  the 
edge  of  a  pretty  plateau,  on  the  summit  of  an  escarped  height  Ho  perched,  tiiese 
edifices  dominate  the  narrow  strip  of  fine  sand  svhich  sweeps  around  at  their  feet. 
On  the  r.  the  view  plunges  into  the  profound  waters  of  the  .«oiubre  Saguenay  ;  in 
front,  it  is  lost  in  the  immense  St.  Lawrence.  All  around  are  mountains  covered 
with  fir-trees  and  birches.  Through  the  opening  which  the  mighty  river  has  cut 
through  the  rock,  the  reefs,  the  islands,  and  south  shores  are  seen.  It  is  a  delicious 
place  "  (Tache.) 

4  M.  E.  of  Tadousac  is  the  harbor  of  Moulin  d  Baur/e,  where  are  large  beds  of 
wliite  marble.  Charlevoix  anchored  here  in  the  Chameau  (in  17(X)),  and  was  so  en- 
thusiastic over  the  discovery  that  he  reported  that  "  all  this  country  is  full  of  mar- 
ble." Pointe  Rouge,  the  S.  E.  promontory  before  Tadousac,  is  coniposed  of  an  in- 
ten.'^ely  hard  red  granite  The  shore  extends  to  the  N.  E.  to  the  famous  shooting- 
grounds  of  Mille  Vache8,the  trout-stream  of  the  Laval  lUver,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
post  of  Betsiamitis  (see  page  233). 

In  the  year  1599  a  trading-post  was  established  at  Tudousac  by  Pontgrav«5  and 
Chauvin,to  whom  this  country  had  l)een  granti'd.  They  built  storehouses  and  huts, 
and  left  16  men  to  gather  in  the  furs  from  the  Indians,  but  sevenil  of  the^e  died 
and  the  rest  fled  into  the  forest.  Two  subsequent  attempts  within  a  few  years  ended 
as  disjistrously.  In  1628  the  pla<*e  wim  captun'd  by  Admiral  Kirke,  ami  in  1>)32  his 
brother  died  here.  In  1658  the  lordship  of  this  district,  was  given  to  the  Sieur  De- 
maux,  with  the  dominion  over  the  country  between  Eboulciiients  and  CajK!  Cor- 
niorant.  Three  years  later  the  place  was  captured  by  the  Irocniois,  and  the  garrison 
was  massacred.  In  1690  three  French  frigiifcs,  iKNiring  tin- mval  treisnre  to  Quebec, 
were  chased  in  here  by  Sir  William  I'hippss  New-England  Hect.  They  formed  bat- 
teries CD  the  Tadousac  i^bores,  but  the  Americans  were  unable  to  get  their  vessels 


\H 


I  n 


300      RouU  73. 


I  i 


in  I 


i    I       ! 


CHICOUTIMI. 


up  through  the  iwift  currentA,  and  the  French  fleet  wm  gaved.  The  trading-pott 
and  misHlon  were  kept  up  with  advantage.  Charlevoix  visited  the  place  in  1720,  and 
Miys:  "  The  greatest  Part  of  our  (Jeographt-rs  have  here  placed  a  Town,  but  where 
there  never  was  but  one  Frenrh  hnuf^e  and  some  huts  of  Savages  who  came  there  in 
the  Time  of  the  Trade  and  who  carried  awa\  their  Huts  or  Hooths,  when  they  went 
away  ;  and  this  was  the  whole  matter.  It  is  true  that  this  I'ort  has  been  a  long 
Time  the  Resort  of  all  the  Savage  Nations  of  the  North  and  East,  and  that  the 
French  resorted  thither  as  soon  as  the  Navigjition  was  free  both  from  Prance  and 
Canada ;  the  Missionaries  also  made  Use  of  the  Opportunity,  and  came  to  trade  here 
for  Heaven.  And  when  the  Trade  was  over,  the  Merchants  returned  to  their  Homes, 
the  Savap  s  took  the  Way  to  their  Villages  or  Forests,  and  the  Gospel  Labourers  fol- 
lowed tlie  last,  to  compleat  their  Instructions." 

The  steamer  leaves  Tadousac  during  the  evening,  and  ascends  tlie  river 
by  night,  when,  if  the  sky  is  unclouded,  there  are  beautiful  effects  of  star- 
light or  moonlight  on  the  frowning  shores.  The  return  trip  down  the  river 
is  made  the  next  day,  and  the  full  power  of  the  scenery  is  then  felt.  This 
description  of  the  river  begins,  therefore,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and 
follows  the  river  downward,  detaching  the  detour  into  Ha  Ha  Bay,  for  the 
sake  of  continuity. 

Chicoutimi  (good  hotel)  is  the  capital  of  rhicoutimi  County,  and  has 
2,30(  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay, 
and  is  the  great  shipping-point  of  the  lumber  districts.  Over  40  ships 
load  here  every  year,  most  of  them  being  squarely  built  Scandinavian 
vessels.  The  trado  amoiaits  to  ^  500,000  a  vear,  and  is  under  the  control 
of  Senator  Price  of  Qiiobco,  who  has  fine  villas  at  Chicoutimi  and  Tadousac, 
and  is  known  as  '  the  King  of  the  Saguenay."  The  powerful  house  of 
Price  Brothers  (S:  Co.  owns  most  of  the  Saguenay  country,  and  has  estab- 
lishments on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  in  England.  Their  property  in 
mills,  buildings,  and  vessels  is  of  immense  value.  Over  the  steamboat- 
pier  is  the  new  college,  built  of  stone,  about  an  open  quadrangle.  Near 
by  are  the  cathedral  and  the  convent  of  the  Good  Shepherd.  Beyond  the 
town  the  court-house  is  seen,  cm  the  dark  slope  of  a  high  hill;  and  the 
white  ribbon  of  the  *  Chicoutimi  FnJh  is  visible  to  the  1.  The  Chicoutimi 
River  here  falls  40  -  50  ft.,  lust  before  entering  the  Saguenay.  This  stream 
affords  fine  sport  for  the  fisherman,  and  eontains  great  numbers  of  fish  re- 
sembling the  land-locked  salmon,  or  grilse. 

Chicoutimi  signifies  "  deep  water,*'  and  was  so  called  by  the  Northern  Indians  who 
here  first  encountered  the  profound  depths  of  the  Saguenay.  There  is  fine  fishing  about 
the  falls  and  the  adjax^ent  rapids  (permission  must  l)e  obtained,  and  is  often  granted  in 
courtesy  to  strangers).  Tiie  ancient  .lesuit  chapel  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
post  were  situated  near  the  coiitiu( m'e  of  the  two  rivers,  and  within  tlie  chapel 
(whicli  remained  until  recently)  was  the  tomb  of  Father  Cccquart,  the  last  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries.  A  strong  mi-ision  was  founded  here  in  1727,  by  Father  Labrosse, 
and  many  Indians  were  converted. 

iSt.  Anne  du  Saguenay  is  a  village  of  200  inhabitants,  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  Chicoutimi.  Lake  St.  John  is  about  60  M.  W.  of 
Chicoutimi,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road,  which  passes  through  Jon- 
qul^re,  Kenogami,  and  Hebertville  (1,200  inhabitants).  The  Rapids  of 
Terres  Eumpues^  on  the  Saguenay  River,  are  9  M.  above  Chicoutimi. 


I  S 


1:     * 


In 
is  of  rl 

the  rij 
villa 
point  i| 
dark 
St.  Ft 
walls 
bank. 
East  ai 

tween 
So  brol 
explor^ 
name 


LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 


Route  73.        801 


tradlng-poit 
in  1720, and 
J,  but  where 
line  there  in 
»n  tliey  went 
been  a  long 
ind  thut  the 
France  and 
to  trade  here 
their  Homes, 
iabourers  fol- 

ids  the  river 
fects  of  star- 
wn  the  river 
nfelt.  This 
fifiation,  and 
Bav,  for  the 

nty,  an<l  has 
ieSas"P"ay» 
')ver  40  ships 
Scandinavian 
.r  the  control 
tnd  Tadousac, 
rful  house  of 
nd  has  estab- 
ir  property  in 
he  steamboat- 
rankle.     Near 

Beyond  the 
1  hill ;  and  the 
he  Chicoutimi 

This  stream 
bers  of  fish  re- 

hern  Indians  who 
fine  ftshinK  about 
^  often  granted  m 
'a  Bay  Company  s 
dthin  the  chapel 
t,  the  last  of  the 
Father  Labrosse, 

the  high  bunk 
,ut  60  M.  W.  of 
!S  through  Jon- 
Tlie  Rnpids  oj 
|)ve  Chicoutimi. 


There  are  numerous  rapids,  and  far  above  come  the  mighty  rush  and  uproar 
of  the  Grand  Di'-charge  and  Petit  IVcharge.  These  empty  the  waters  of 
the  lake,  and,  sweepiii*;  aroutui  a  rugged  island  with  terrilic  and  unnatural 
force,  unite  and  rage  and  contend. 

A  railway  runs  from  Quebec  190  M.  N.  to  Lake  St.  John,  where  there  is 
a  large  summer-hotel,  at  Robervdl.  The  steamer  Peribonca  makes  daily 
trips  around  this  remote  northern  lake,  which  is  26  by  20  M.  in  area,  and 
receives  the  mile-wide  rivers,  Mistassini,  Peribonca,  and  Ashuapmou- 
chouan,  each  flowing  200  M.,  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  water-shed.  The 
lake  is  surrounded  by  French  Catholic  hamlets,  with  tin-clad  church-spires. 
The  famous  and  ganiey  fish  called  winanishe  abound  in  these  waters,  with 
trout  and  pickerel,  perch  and  pike. 

Lake  St.  John  was  discovered  in  1647  by  Father  Duquen,  the  misidonary 

at  Tadousac,  who  was  the  first  European  to  ascend  the  Soguenay  to  its  source. 
It  was  then  called  by  the  Indiana  Picouagami,  or  Flat  Lake.  Several  Jesuit  mis-  ' 
Bionaries  soon  passed  by  this  route  to  the  great  Nekouba,  where  all  the  northern 
tribes  were  wont  to  meet  in  annual  fairs  ;  and  in  1672  Father  Albanel  advanced  from 
Tadousac,  by  Lake  St.  John  and  Lake  Mistassini,  to  the  Mer  du  Nord,  or  Uud- 
Bon's  Bay.  A  Catholic  mission  was  founded  on  the  lake,  at  Metabetchuan,  and 
posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  also  established  here.  The  lake  is  of 
great  area,  and  receives  the  waters  of  8  large  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Mis- 
tassini, tiowing  down  250  M.  from  Lake  Mistassini,  which  is  75  X  30  M.  in  area. 
The  water  is  shallow,  and  is  agitated  into  furious  whit«  waves  by  the  N.  W.  winds. 
To  the  N.  and  W.  is  a  vast  region  of  low  volcanic  mountains  and  dreary  lands 
of  low  spruce  forests.  The  soil  along  the  lake-shores  is  said  to  be  a  fertile  allu- 
vium, capable  of  nourishing  a  dense  iwpuiation  ;  but  the  winters  are  long  and  ter- 
rible. 20  years  ago  there  were  no  settlemt-nts  here  except  the  Hudson's  Bay  pofts  ; 
now  there  are  numerous  villages,  the  chief  of  which  are  Roberval,  Riviere  a  I'Ours, 
and  St.  Jerome. 

Mr.  Price,  M.  P.,  states  that  a  missionary  has  recently  discovered,  high  upon  the 
Saguenay  (or  on  the  Mistassini),  an  ancient  French  fort,  with  intrenchments  and 
stockades.  On  the  inside  were  two  cannon,  and  several  broken  tombstones  dating 
from  the  early  part  of  the  16th  century.  It  is  surmised  that  these  remote  memorials 
mark  the  last  resting-place  of  the  Sieur  Roberval,  Governor-General  of  Canada,  who 
(it  is  supposed)  sailed  up  the  Saguenay  in  1543,  and  was  never  heard  from  after- 
wards. The  Robervals  were  fivorites  of  King  Francis  I.,  who  calletl  one  of  them 
"  the  Petty  King  of  Viemen,"  and  the  other, ''  the  Gendarme  of  Hannibal."  They 
were  both  lost  on  their  la.st  expedition  to  America. 

In  descending  the  Saguenay  from  Chicoutimi  to  Ha  Ha  Bay,  the  scenery 
is  of  remarkable  boldness,  but  is  less  startling  than  the  lower  reaches  of 
the  river.  Soon  after  leaving  the  village  the  steamer  passes  the  pretty 
villa  and  the  Anglican  church  pertaining  to  Senator  Price.  Below  this 
point  is  a  line  of  hills  of  marly  clay;  and  Cape  St.  Fran9oi8  soon  rears  its 
dark  crest  on  the  1.  bank.  The  river  widens  rapidly,  and  the  hamlet  of 
St.  Fulf/ence  is  seen  on  the  1.,  near  Pointe  Roches.  Beyond  the  ponderous 
walls  of  Iliyh  Point  is  another  broad  reach,  with  small  islets  under  the  1. 
bank.  The  steamer  now  runs  between  the  frowring  promontories  of  Cape 
East  and  Cape  West,  and  passes  the  entrance  to  Ha  Ha  Bay. 

*Ha  Ha  Bay  runs  7  M.  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay,  and  is  ascended  be- 
tween lofty  and  serrated  ridges,  bristling  with  sturdy  and  stunted  trees. 
So  broad  and  stately  is  this  udet  that  it  is  said  that  the  early  French 
explorers  ascended  it  in  the  belief  that  it  was  the  main  river,  and  the 
name  originateil  from  their  exclamations  on  reaching  the  end,  either  of 


if 


;;|1 


f      ; 


\M 


302      RmiU  73. 


HA  HA  BAY. 


amusement  at  their  mistake  or  of  pleasure  nt  the  beautiful  appearance  of 
the  meadows.  After  running  for  severtil  miles  between  the  terraced  cliffs 
of  Cape  West  (on  the  r.)  and  the  opposite  ridges,  the  steamer  enters  a 
wide  haven  whose  shores  consist  of  open  intervale-land,  backed  by  tall 
blue  heights.  The  entrance  is  4  M.  long,  1  M.  wide,  and  100  fathoms 
deep,  and  the  haven  can  be  reached  by  ships  of  the  line  without  difficulty. 
It  is  expected  that  this  bay  will  be  the  great  port  of  "the  hyperborean 
Latin  nation"  which  is  fast  settling  the  Upper  Saguenay  and  Lake  St. 
John  country.  Large  quantities  of  lumber  are  loaded  here  upon  British 
and  Scandinavian  ships,  and  a  flourishing  trade  is  ca  ried  on  in  the 
autumn  by  sending  farm-produce  and  blueberries  to  Que jec,  —  the  latter 
being  packed  in  collin-shaped  boxes  and  sold  for  30-40  cents  a  bushel. 

The  steamer  touches  at  iSt.  Alpkonse  (Hagotville),  a  small  French  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  comfortable  hotel.  Calashes  run  from  the  pier  to 
8t.  AUxii  (Grande  Bale),  3  M.  off,  around. the  bay,  crossing  the  Uivihre  a 
Mars,  famous  for  its  salmon-tisheries  (rights  may  easily  be  bought  or 
leased).  3  M.  from  the  bay,  near  the  falls  of  Mars  River,  are  the  three 
Gravel  Lakes,  famous  for  immense  and  delicious  red  trout.  The  mail-road 
is  prolonged  from  St.  Alexis,  through  the  uninhabited  wilderness  of  the 
Crown  Lands,  to  St.  Urbain  and  St.  Paul'.-  Bay  (see  page  2*J2). 

"  The  long  line  of  sullen  hills  had  fallen  away,  and  the  morning  sun  shone  warm 
on  what  in  a  friendlier  climutc  would  have  been  a  very  lovely  landscape.  The  bay 
was  an  irregular  oval,  with  shores  that  rose  in  bold  but  not  lofty  heights  on  one 
aHe,  while  on  the  other  lay  a  narrow  plain  with  two  villages  cliugiug  about  the  road 
that  followed  the  crescent  beach,  and  lifting  each  the  slender  tin-clad  spire  of  its 
church  to  sparkle  in  the  sun.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  was  a  mountainous  top,  and 
along  its  waters  were  masses  of  rocks,  gayly  painted  with  lichens  and  stained  with 
metallic  tints  of  orange  and  scarlet."    IIowells.) 

21  M.  from  Ha  Hn  Hay  is  Lac  a  la  Belle  Truite, 
and  beyond  is  the  Great  Ha  Ha  Lake,  among  the  mountains,  with  bold  capes  en- 
circling forests,  and  a  pretty  island.  6  M.  from  Belle  Truite  is  the  Little  Ha  Ha 
lAke,  on  whose  shore  is  a  stupendous  clitT  nearly  2,000  ft.  high  The  blue  peaks  of 
the  St.  Margaret  Mts.  are  about  30  M.  from  Ha  Ha  Bay,  and  swtep  from  Lake  St. 
John  to  Hud.Bon's  Bay.  Carriages  may  be  taken  from  St.  Alphouse  to  Chicoutimi 
(12  M.),  and  for  longer  excursions  toward  Lake  St.  John. 

After  passing  the  dark  chasm  of  Ha  Ha  Bay,  Cape  East  is  seen  on  the  1., 
throwing  its  serrated  ledges  far  out  into  the  stream,  and  cutting  otf  the 
retrospective  view.  Rugged  palisades  of  syenite  line  the  shores  on  both 
sides.  "  The  procession  of  the  pine-dad,  rounded  heights  on  either  shore 
began  shortly  after  Ha  Ha  Bay  had  disappeared  behind  a  curve,  and  it 
hardly  ceased,  save  a,t  one  point,  before  the  boat  re-entered  the  St.  Law- 
rence.    The  shores  of  the  river  are  almost  uninhabited.     The  hills  rise 

m 

from  the  water's  edge;  and  if  ever  a  narrow  vale  divides  them,  it  is  but 
to  open  drearier  solitudes  to  the  eye."  Just  before  reaching  Cape  Rouge 
(1.  bank)  the  ravine  of  Descente  des  Femmes  opens  to  the  N.,  deriving  its 
singular  name  from  a  tradition  that  a  party  of  Indians  were  starving,  in 
the  back-country,  and  sent  their  squaws  for  help,  who  descended  to  the 
river  through  this  wild  gorge  and  secured  assistance. 


It 


I  rest  ji 
shaggel 
oy  flre,l 
of  the  f 
'8  crow] 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


RmU  7S.      303 


jflTance  of 
•aced  c\iff« 
ir  enters  a       , 
4ed  by  tnU 

00  fftt\ioin» 
t  difficulty, 
lyperborean 

ipon  Br\t\>*U 
d  on  in  the 
,  — the  latter 

a  bushel, 
•each  village, 
a  the  pier  to 
the  Eivwre  a 
be  bought  or 
,  are  the  three 
Tlie  mail-road 
aerncss  of  the 
y2). 

r  Bun  shone  vrajm 
'.iscape.    The  bay 
tv  Sht.  on  one 
i  about  the  road 

.-c\»d  pphe  of  tj 
itainous  top,  an  J 
aid  stained  vith 

L  bold  caP<;8  f- 

1  tlie  Little  Ua  Ija 
l-lhebluevef^of 
Lep  from  Lake  St. 
pe  to  Chicoutunl 

is  seen  on  the  1., 
Id  cutting  off  the 
Ve  shores  on  both 
Us  on  either  shore 
l\  a  curve,  and  it 
fered  the  St.  Lavr- 
The  hills  rise 
^s  them,  it  i«  ^«* 
Iching  Cape  Rouge 
Ihe  15.,  deriving  its 
Avere  starving,  m 
descended  to  the 


On  the  r.  bank  Is  *  Le  Tableau,  a  clifT  900  ft.  high,  wliose  riverward 
face  contains  u  broad  sheet  of  diirk  litnestoiiu,  600  X  300  ft.  in  area,  so 
smooth  and  straigiit  as  to  suggest  a  vast  canvas  prepared  fur  a  picture. 
Still  further  down  (r.  bank)  is 

"*  Statue  Point,  where,  at  about  1,000  feet  above  the  water,  a  huge, 
rough  Gothic  arcii  gives  entrance  to  a  cave,  in  whlcli,  as  yet,  the  foot  of 
man  has  never  trodden.  Before  the  entrance  to  this  black  a|)erture,  a 
gigiuitic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some  dead  Titan,  once  stood.  A  few 
years  ago,  during  the  winter,  It  gave  way,  and  the  monstrous  statue  came 
crasiiiiig  down  through  the  ice  of  the  Sagucnay,  and  left  bare  to  view  the 
entrance  to  the  cavern  it  had  gujinlcd  i)erhaps  for  ages." 

The  steamer  soon  passes  Cape  Trinity  on  the  r.  bank,  and  runs  in 
close  to  **  Eternity  Bay,  wliich  is  a  narrow  cove  between  the  majestic 
clilfs  of  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity.  The  water  is  150  fathoms  deep, 
and  the  clitTs  descend  abruptly  into  its  profoundest  parts.  *  Cape  Trinity 
consists  of  three  vast  superimposed  precipices,  each  of  which  is  6-600 
ft.  high,  on  whose  faces  are  seen  two  remarkable  profiles.  The  echo  in 
the  bay  is  wonderful,  and  is  usually  tested  by  discharging  a  gun  or  blow- 
ing a  whistle.  (In  recent  maps  and  descrlj)tions  tlie  name  of  Kternity  has 
been  given  to  the  N,  cape,  and  Trinity  to  the  otl:er.  This  is  not  correct, 
for  the  N.  cape  was  named  Jm  Trinite  by  the  Jesuits  on  account  of  its 
union  of  three  vast  sections  into  one  liiountain.  It  is  known  by  that  name 
among  the  old  pilots  and  river-people.  The  Editor  has  substituted  the 
correct  names  in  the  ensuing  quotations.) 

"  The  masterpiece  of  the  Saguenay  Is  the  majesty  of  its  two  grandest  bulwarks, 
—  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity, — enornious  niasssoa  of  rock,  1,5(X)  feet  high, 
rising  sheer  out  of  the  black  water,  and  jutting  forward  into  it  so  as  to  shelter  a  lit- 
tle bay  of  the  river  between  their  gloomy  portals.  In  the  subliuiity  of  their  height 
and  steepness,  and  in  the  beautiful  effect  against  the  rock  of  the  pine-trees  which 
here  and  there  gain  a  dizzy  fott'ioki,  nestling  trustfully  into  every  hollow  on  the 
face  of  the  tremendous  precipice,  these  capes  can  hardly  be  surpassed  by  any  river- 
scene  in  the  world."    (WniTr:.) 

"Suddenly  the  boat  rounded  the  corner  of  the  three  steps,  each  500  ft.  high,  in 
which  Cape  Trinity  climbs  from  the  river,  and  crept  in  under  the  naked  side  of  the 
awful  cliff.  It  is  sheer  rock,  springing  from  the  black  water,  and  stretcliing  upward 
with  a  weary,  effort-like  aspect,  in  long  impulses  of  stone  marked  by  deep  seams 
from  space  to  space,  till,  1,500  ft.  in  air,  its  vast  hrow  be<ftles  forward,  and  frowns 

with  a  scattering  fringe  of  [tines The  rock  fully  justitlea  its  attributive  height 

to  the  eye,  which  follows  the  upward  rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity,  steep  after  steep, 
till  it  wins  the  cloud-capt  sunnnit,  when  the  measureless  mass  seems  to  swing  and 
sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that  besets  him  who 
looks  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice.  It  is  wholly  grim  and  stern  ; 
no  touch  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence.  At  the  foot  of 
Cape  Trinity  the  wat-cr  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a  black  expanse,  in  the 
rounding  hollow  of  shores  of  unimaginable  wildness  and  desolation,  and  issues 
again  in  its  river's  course  around  the  base  of  Cape  Kternity.  This  is  yet  loftier 
than  the  sister  cliff,  but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the  stream,  and  from  foot  to 
crest  it  is  heavily  clothed  with  a  forest  of  pines.  I  he  woods  that  hitherto  have 
shagged  tlie  hills  with  a  stunted  and  meagre  growth,  showing  long  stretches  scarred 
by  fire,  now  assume  a  stately  size,  and  asseuible  theniselves  compactly  upon  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  setting  their  serried  stems  one  rank  above  another,  till  the  summit 
is  crowned  with  the  mass  of  their  dark  green  plumes,  dense  and  soft  and  beautiM; 


* 


PI 

ir 


■ill 


304      Rmite  73, 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


ill 
I  ill 


II : 


!   i! 


\  '■ 


II! 


80  that  the  spirit,  perturbed  by  the  spectacle  of  the  other  cliff,  Is  calmed  and  as- 
suaged by  the  M?ren«  gmndeiir  of  this  "     (IIowells's  A  Chance.  Acquaintance.) 

*'  These  awful  clill«.  plaiiU'd  in  watt^r  nearly  a  thnumind  feet  d»ep,  uiul  Hoaringinto 
the  very  fiky,  form  the  gatewny  to  a  rugged  valley,  ntretching  inland,  and  rovered 
with  the  dark  primeval  ffn-est  of  the  North.     1  doubt  whether  a  suitliuier  pirture 

of  the  wildernesH  is  to  lie  found  on  this  continent The  wall  of  dun-colored 

syenitic  granite,  ribbed  with  vertical  ntreaks  of  black,  hung  for  a  moment  directly 
over  our  hcatls,  a»  high  as  three  Trinity  spires  atop  of  one  another.  Westward,  the 
wall  ran  inland,  projecting  bastion  aftt.'r  bitstion  of  inaccessible  rock,  over  tlic  dark 
forests  in  the  bed  of  the  valley."     (Uavard  Taylor.) 

"  The  wild  scenei-y  of  the  river  culminates  at  a  little  inlet  on  the  right  bank  be- 
tween Caj)e8  Trinity  and  Eternity.  Than  these  two  dreadful  lieadlands  nothing  can 
be  imagined  more  grand  and  impressive.  For  one  brief  moment  the  rugged  diame- 
ter of  the  river  is  partly  t-oftene(i,and,  looking  back  into  tlie  deep  valley  i)etween  the 
capi'S,  the  land  has  an  as))ect  of  life  and  mild  luxuriance  which,  though  not  rich, 
at  least  seems  so  in  compari.xon  with  the  grievous  awful  barrenness.  Cnpe  Eternity 
on  this  side  towards  the  landward  opening  is  pretty  thickly  clothed  with  fir  and  biirh 
mingled  together  in  a  color  contrast  which  is  beautiful  enough,  especially  where  the 
rocks  show  out  among  them,  with  their  little  cascades  and  waterfalls  like  strips  of 
silver  shining  in  the  stin.  I5ut  (^ajH*  Trinity  well  becomes  its  name,  and  is  the  reverse 
of  all  this.  It  seems  to  frown  in  gloomy  indignation  on  its  brother  for  the  weakness  it 
betrays  in  allowing  anything  like  life  or  verdure  to  shield  its  wild,  uncouth  deformity 
of  strength.  Cape  Trinity  certainly  shows  no  sign  of  relaxing  in  this  respect  from 
its  deep  savage  grandeur.  It  is  one  tremendous  cliff  of  limestone,  more  than  1/iOO 
feet  high,  and  inclining  forward  mow?  than  200  feet,  Itrow-beating  all  beneath  it, and 
£<?eniing  as  if  at  any  moment  it  would  fall  and  overwhelm  the  deep  black  stream 
which  Hows  so  cold  and  motionless  d«twn  i>elo\<*  High  up,  on  its  rough  gray  brows, 
a  few  stunted  pines  show  like  bristles  their  scathed  white  arms,  giving  an  awful 
weird  asjKM't  to  the  mass,  blanched  here  ami  thei-e  by  the  temiK'sts  of  ages,  stained 
and  discolored  by  little  waterfiUs  in  blotchy  and  decaying  spots.  Unlike  Niagara, 
and  all  other  of  (lod's  great  works  in  nature,  one  does  not  wish  for  silence  or  soli- 
tude here.  (Companionship  becomes  do.  biy  nece.ssar}  in  an  awful  solitude  like  this." 
(London  Tinif$.^ 

When  the  Flyins;  Fish  ascended  the  river  with  the  I'rince  of  Wales  and  his  suite, 
one  of  her  heavy  »)8-pounders  was  fired  off  near  Cape  Trinity.  "  For  the  space  of  half 
a  minute  or  so  after  the  discharge  there  wjis  a  dead  silence,  and  then, as  if  the  report 
and  concussivMi  were  hurled  back  upon  the  decks,  the  echoes  came  down  crash  upon 
cra^h.  It  .^eemed  as  if  the  nx'ks  and  crags  had  all  sprung  into  life  under  the  tre- 
mendous din,  and  as  if  ea<*h  was  firing  (}8-pounders  full  upon  us,  in  sharp,  crushing 
Tolleys,till  at  last  they  grew  hoiirserand  hoarder  in  their  anger,  and  retreated,  bellow- 
ing slowly,  carrying  the  tale  of  invaded  solitude  from  hill  to  hill,  till  all  the  distant 
mountains  seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  the  intrusion." 

St.  John's  Bay  (r.  bank)  is  G  M.  below  Eternity  Bay,  and  is  shallow 
enough  to  aflbrd  an  anchornpe  for  shipping.  It  is  2  AI  wide  and  3  M.  lonpif, 
and  receives  the  St.  John  River.  At  its  end  is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  in 
a  narrow  valley  which  appears  beautiful  in  contrast  with  the  surrounding 
cliffs.  Far  inliuul  are  seen  the  blue  peaks  of  distant  mountains.  In  the 
little  cove  opposite  is  the  white  tiiread  of  a  lofty  cascade. 

The  Little  Sagnenny  River  (r.  bank)  is  4  M.  below,  and  flows  down  out 
of  a  bristling  wilderness  where  are  famous  Indian  huntipg-grounds  and 
pools  nlled  with  trout.  A  short  distance  below  are  the  islets  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Riviere  aux  Canards.  The  steamer  then  sweeps  by  the  St.  Louis 
Isle,  a  granite  rock,  ^  M.  long,  covered  with  firs,  spruces,  and  birch-trees. 
There  is  1,200  ft.  depth  of  water  around  this  islet,  in  which  are  multitudes 
of  salmon-trout.  On  the  r.  bank  are  the  ujassive  promontories  of  Cape 
Victoria  and  Cape  George.  The  •retrospect  from  this  point  affords  one 
of  the  grandest  views  on  the  river.    2  M.  below  (1.  bank)  is  seen  the  inter- 


'•  It  c| 
whleh  is 
wpentsL 
Swedish) 
were  ne{ 


led  and  a§- 

ancf.) 
soaring  into 
Old  covered 
,„er  virture 
dun-colored 
-cut  din'ctly 
eptward,  the 
rer  the  dark 

rVjt  bank  be- 
'  iiothini?  <  an 
ijjped  chnrjio- 
y  between  the 
igh  not  viih, 
:i\]w  Ktcrnlty 
htirandbh-oh 
iiUv  where  the 
*  like  strips  of 
il  is  the  reverse 
the  weaknet'S  it 
nutli  defornilty 
is  respect  froni 
lore  tliiin  1/)W 
beneath  it,  and 
p  blaek  stream 
xf}i  gray  brows, 

riving  an  a^'"l 
of  ages,  stained 
Uniike  TSiagaTR, 
T  silence  or  soU- 
litudc  like  this." 

es  and  his  suite, 

the  space  of  hall 
,  as  if  the  report 
lowii  crash  upon 
ft.  under  the  tre- 
,  sharp, crushing 
retreated,  bellow- 
ill  all  the  distant 

ftiul  is  shallow 
unci  3  M.  long, 
iilet,  situated  in 
t\io  surrounding 
iutains.    In  the 

flows  down  out 
Irig-grounds  and 
lets  at  the  mouth 
)y  the  St.  Louis 
/and  birch-treiis. 
'h  are  muititudes 
outories  of  Cape 
point  affords  one 

18  seen  the  Inter- 


QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL.        noHte7l      305 

vales  of  the  St.  Marguerite  River,  the  chief  tributary  of  tlie  Sapuenay,  de- 
scending from  a  lake  far  N.  of  Chicouthni,  an  1  famous  for  its  saltnoii-fisher- 
ies  (leased).  It  is  a  swift  stream,  flecked  witli  rapids,  but  is  navigable  for  20 
M.  by  canoes;  and  flows  from  a  valuable  region  of  liard-wfKjd  trees.  There 
are  huts  along  tiic  strand  at  its  mouth,  and  vessels  are  usually  seen  at  an- 
chor here;  while  far  inland  arc  bare  and  rugged  ridges.  The  tall  promon- 
tory beyond  this  river  is  seamed  with  remarkable  trap-<likes,  of  a  color 
approaching  black;  oi)posite  which  is  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Athanase.     ^ 

Beyond  Point  Crepe  (r.  bank)  is  the  deep  cove  of  Sf.  Etiinnt  Day,  afford- 
ing an  anchorage,  and  bordered  with  narrow  strips  of  alluvial  land.  The 
steamer  now  sweeps  rapidly  down,  between  immense  clilfs,  and  with  but 
narrow  reaches  of  the  river  visible  ahead  and  astern.  Beyond  the  Pawe 
Pierre  hies  (r.  bank)  it  ap[)roaches  a  castellated  crag  on  the  r.,  opposite 
which  is  the  frowning  promontory  called  *  Fointe  la  Boule,  a  vast  granite 
mountain  which  narrows  the  channel  to  very  close  confines.  From  Pointe 
la  Boule  to  Tadousac,  the  river  flows  between  escarped  cliffs  of  feldspathic 
granite,  with  an  appearance  rcembling  stratification  dipping  to  the  S.  E. 
Their  lofty  rounded  summits  are  nearly  barren,  or  at  most  support  a  thin 
fringe  of  low  trees;  and  the  slieer  descent  on'  the  sides  is  prolonged  to  a 
great  depth  beneath  the  water. 

The  vessel  calls  at  L' Anse  a  L'/iau^  the  little  cove  near  Tadousac  (see 
page  299);  and  soon  afterwards  steams  out  into  the  l)road  St.  Lawrence, 
in  the  darkness  of  evening.  The  next  morning,  the  traveller  awakes  at  or 
near  Quebec. 

74.    Quebec  to  Montreal  —  The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  river-route  is  by  the  steamboats  of  the  Richelieu  Compjiny,  leaving  Quebec 
at  evening.  It  is  69  M  from  Quebec  to  Batiscan,  90  M.  to  Three  Uiverrt,  I'ST)  M. 
to  Sorel,  and  180  M.  to  Montreal. 

The  shortest  route  by  rail  between  the  two  citien  id  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railwaj, 
along  the  North  Shore. 

8tati(»n8.  — Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John  Junction,  1  M. ;  Lorette,  8  :  Passe  l»iir»- 
dis,  14;  Ste.  Jeanne  de  Neuville,  26;  St.  Uazile,  3:i;  Portncuf,  liTi;  I>e><cliauibiiult, 
39;  Lachevroti6«\  42 :  Grondines,  45;  St.  Anne  de  la  Permle,  [hi'  Hiitiiw-uu,  68; 
Ohanipliiin,  G5  ;  Piles  Brancli  Junction,  75;  Three  Ilivers  11.,  78;  Pointe  du  Lac, 
88;  Yumachiche,  93;  Louise  Ville,  98;  Maskinongti,  102;  St.  Bartht-lemi,  1((8 ; 
St.  (}uthbert,  111;  Rerthior,  116;  Lnnuraie  Junction,  124;  l^a  Vultrii!  Road.  Vi'J  ; 
L'AH:«omption.  133;  L'Kpiphanie,  137;  Sf..  Ileuri  de  ALuicouchu,  145;  Terrcbouue, 
149;  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  15ij  ;  Montreal,  170. 

Tne  Uran't  Trunk  Railway  runs  two  trains  daily  between  Quob«»c  and  Montreal. 
Stations  -  -  Quebec  (Point  Levi) ;  Iladiow,  2  M.  :  rhaudiire  Turvf,  8  ;  (.'niig's  Road, 
15;  Black  River,  20;  Methot's  Mills,  28  ;  Ly-^U-r,  37  ;  Hwaiu-our,  41 ;  Somerset,  49  ; 
Stanfold,  65;  Arthabaska,  64;  Warwick,  71;  Danville,  84;  Richmond,  96;  New 
Durham,  106;  Acton,  118  ;  Upton,  124;  Hritani.;.  Mill.s,  lat ;  St  Uyaciutiie,  137  ; 
Soixantc,  144;  St.  Uilaire,  150;  St.  Bruuu,  157;  St  Hubert,  162;  St.  Lambert, 
167 ;  Moutreal,  172. 

"  It  could  really  be  called  a  villuge,  begiuning  at  Montreal  and  ending  at  Quebec, 
which  ia  a  distance  of  more  than  180  M. ;  for  tiie  farni-houses  are  never  more  than  fire 
arpents apart,  and  sometimes  but  three  asunder,  a  few  places  excepted.'^  (Kalm,  the 
Swedish  traveller,  in  1749.)  In  1684  La  Houtan  said  that  the  houses  along  tliese  shores 
were  never  more  than  a  gunshot  apart.    The  inhabitants  are  Biiuple-uiinded  and 

T 


it, 

I' 
i  s 


» 


.  I 


'<  *> 

i  I 


306      Route  74. 


ST.   AUGUSTIN. 


{>riinitiTe  in  their  ways,  tenaciou.4ly  retaining  tli«  Gatliolic  faith  and  the  French 
anguage  and  customs.  Emery  de  Caon,  Chanipiain's  contemporary,  told  the  Hugue- 
not Kaiiors  that  "  Monscigncur,  the  Duke  de  Ventadour  (Viceroy),  did  not  wish  that 
they  should  sing  pKuinis  in  the  Great  Uiver."  When  tiie  tirst  steamboat  ascended 
thi8  river,  an  old  ('aniidian  voyagntr  exclaimed,  in  astonu^hment  and  doubt,  "Mais 
croyez-vous  que  le  bon  Dieu  permettra  tout  cela  I  " 

As  the  stearnbo.'it  swings  out  into  the  stream  a  fine  series  of  views  are 
afforded,  inchiding  Quebec  and  the  Ba.sin,  tlie  bold  bluffs  of  Point  Levi, 
and  the  dark  walls  of  the  Citadel,  almost  overhead.  As  the  river  is  as- 
cended, the  villas  of  Sillery  and  Cap  Houge  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  on  the 
1.  are  the  wharves  and  villages  of  South  Quebec  and  New  Liverpool,  be- 
vond  which  are  the  mouths  of  the  Etchemin  and  Chaudiere  Rivers.  St. 
Auri%itin  is  on  the  N.  shore,  16  M.  above  Quebec,  atd  has  a  Calvaire,  to 
which  many  pilgrimages  are  made,  and  a  statue  of  the  Guardian  Angel, 
erected  on  a  base  of  cut  stone  in  front  of  the  church,  and  commemorating 
the  Vatican  Council  of  1870. 

Near  the  village  is  a  ruined  church  dating  from  1720,  at  whose  construction  the 
Devil  is  said  to  have  assisted,  in  the  furm  of  a  powerful  black  stallion  who  hauled  in 
the  blocks  of  stone,  until  his  driver  unbridled  him  at  a  watering-place,  when  he 
vanished  in  n  cloud  of  sulphur-smoke.  In  frtmt  of  St,  Augustine  the  Freuch  frigate 
Atalante  surrendered  to  the  Itritish  fleet  in  1760,  after  a  heroic  but  hopeless  buttle; 
and  in  the  same  waters  the  steamer  Montreal  was  burned  in  1857,  aud  200  passeu- 
gers  lost  their  lives  ^ 

Pointe  aux  Trembles  is  3  M.  above  St.  Augustin  (N.  shore,  and  is  a  ship- 
building village  of  700  inhabitants.  Here  many  of  the  ladies  of  Qticbec 
took  refuge  during  Wolfe's  siege  (1769),  and  were  captured  by  his  Gren- 
adiers. Here  also  the  American  armies  of  Arnold  and  Montgomery  united 
their  forces  (Dec.  1,  1776)  before  the  disastrous  assault  on  Quebec.  Pass- 
ing the  hamlet  of  St.  Antoine  de  Tilly,  on  the  S.  shore,  the  village  of  Les 
Kcureuih  is  seen  on  the  N.,  7  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles.  This  is 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  Biver,  famous  for  its  remarkable 
scenery  and  for  its  fine  trout-fishing  (on  the  upper  waters)  On  the  heights 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  Fort  Jacques  Cartier,  to  which  10,000 
French  troops  retreated  after  the  defeat  of  Montcalm.  Nearly  a  year  later 
(June,  1760)  the  fort  was  held  by  the  Marquis  d'Albergotti,  and  was  bom- 
barded and  taken  by  Eraser's  Highhuiders. 

6  M.  above  Les  Ecureuils  is  St.  Croix  (S.  shore),  a  village  of  760  in- 
habitants, with  a  black  nunnery  and  the  public  buildings  of  Lotbinitro 
County.  3  M.  beyond  (N.  shore)  is  Portneiif,  a  prosperous  little  town 
witlj  paper-mills  and  a  large  country  trade.  This  seigniory  was  granted 
to  M.  Le  Neuf  by  the  Cent  Associ^s  in  1647,  and  was  completely  deso- 
lated by  the  fani'shing  French  cavalry  in  1750.  IJcyond  this  point  the 
scenery  becomes  less  picturesque,  and  the  bold  ridges  of  the  Laurentian 
Mts.  sink  down  into  level  lov.Iands.  Deachambnult  (N.  shore)  has  600  in- 
habitants, with  a  trade  in  lumber  and  flour.  Lotbiniere  (S.  shore)  is  a 
town  of  2,600  inhabitants,  with  a  Convent  of  the  Bon  Pasteur  and  two 
stove-fouudries.     GronJines  (N.  shore)  is  8  M.  beyond  Deschambault,  aud 


THREE  RIVERS. 


Rouu  74.     307 


the  rrencb 
the  lluguc- 
ot  wish  that 
)at  ascended 
oubt, "  Mais 

f  views  are 
Point  Levi, 
river  is  as- 
,  niKl  on  tlie 
iverpool,  be- 
River;*.     St. 
Calvaire,  to 
rdian  Angel, 
nmeniorating 

)nstruction  the 
who  iiauk'd  in 
ulacf,  wh»'n  he 
.  KreiH'h  frigate 
liopeless  battle ; 
lud  200  passen- 

t 

nnd  is  a  siiip- 

Ues  of  Quebec 

\  by  liis  Grcn- 

gomery  united 

Juebec.    Tass- 

c  village  of  Les 

nbles.     This  is 

its  remarkable 

On  the  heights 

o  which  10,000 

irly  a  year  later 

i,  and  was  bora- 

Uage  of  760  in- 
gfi  of  Lotbinitro 
irons  little  town 
lory  was  granted 
loinpletely  deso- 
,\  this  point  the 
,f  the  Laurcntian 
;hore)  has  600  in- 
•e  (S.  shore)  is  a 
Pasteur  and  two 
eschambault,  and 


has  400  inhabitants;  and  St.  Jean  Deschaillom  (S.  shore)  is  noted  for  its 
brickyards.  St.  Anne  de  la  Perade  (N.  shore)  has  a  great  church,  and  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Anne  River,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge  1,600  ft.  long.  Beyond  St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  (S.  shore)  is  the 
busy  little  port  of  i?a^wcan  (N.  shore),  with  its  two  lighthouses;  Gentilly 
(S.  shore)  has  600  inhabitants  and  the  Convent  of  the  Assumption;  and 
Champlain  (N.  shore)  has  400  inhabitants. 

Three  Rivers  {British  American  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  9,000  inhabitants, 
midway  between  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  was  founded  in  1618,  under  the  name  of  Trois 
Rivieres,  and  played  an  important  part  in  th  j  early  history  of  Canada. 
The  chief  buildings  are  the  stately  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  Court-House, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  St.  Joseph's  College,  and  the  Kpiscopal  and  Wes- 
leyan  churches.  The  city  has  a  bank,  2  Masonic  lodges,  and  4  semi- 
weekly  and  weekly  newspapers  (2  of  which  are  French).  Besides  the 
daily  boats  of  the  Richelieu  Line,  there  are  6  steamboats  plying  from  this 
port  to  the  adjacent  river-villages.  It  is  connected  with  Quebec  and 
Montreal  by  the  Three-Rivers  Branch  of  the  (Irand  Trunk  Railway  and 
by  the  North-Shore  Railway,  and  has  bull'  a  new  line  up  the  St.  Mau- 
rice Valley  to  Grand  Piles.  There  are  large  iron- works  and  machine- 
shops  here,  and  stoves  and  car-wheels  are  made  in  great  numbers  from 
bog-iron  ore.  The  chief  industry  is  the  shipment  of  lumber,  which  comes 
down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Canadian  government  has  expended 
$200,000  in  improving  the  navigation  on  the  St.  Maurice,  and  over 
$  1,000,000  has  been  invested  in  mills  and  booms  above. 

The  St.  Maurice  River  waters  a  district  of  imnncnse  (and  unknown)  extent, 
abounding  in  lakes  and  forests.  Portions  of  this  great  northern  wilderness  have 
been  visited  by  the  lumbermen,  who  conduct  rafts  to  Three  Rivers,  where  the  lumber 
is  sawed.  About  22  M.  above  the  city  are  the  noble  Falls  of  the  Shawanegan^ 
where  the  great  river  plunges  over  a  pei  ndicular  descent  of  150  ft.  between  the 
lofty  rocks  called  La  Gtarul''  Mere  and  Le  Bonhomine.  A  few  miles  above  are  the 
Falls  of  the  GrnnW  Mire.  These  falls  arc  visited  by  engaging  canoes  and  guides  r 
Three  Rivers,  while  hunting-parties  conducted  by  Canadian  voyageurs  or  Algonquin 
Indians  sometimes  pass  thence  into  the  remote  northern  forests  in  pursuit  of  the 
larger  varieties  of  game.  The  head-waters  of  tbe  St.  Maurice  are  interlocked  with 
those  of  the  Sagutnay. 

Across  the  iSt  .Maurice  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelatne ;  and  on 
the  8.  shore  are  Becnncoiir,  the  capital  of  Nicolet  County,  and  St.  An^el  tie  Laval 
(Doucett's  Landing),  the  teruiinus  of  a  branch  of  the  Qrand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  steamer  soon  enters  Lake  St.  Peter,  a  shallow  widening  of  the  river 
22  M.  long  and  8  M.  broad.  It  has  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  (partly  ar- 
tilicial),  which  is  marked  out  by  buoys  and  poles,  and  is  used  by  large 
vessels.  Immense  luin.ber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  downward 
like  floating  islands,  and  bearing  streamers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  ^he 
lumbermen.  In  stormy  weather  on  the  lake  these  rafts  sometimes  come 
to  pieces.  The  inlets  along  the  low  shores  afford  good  duck-shooting;  and 
enormous  quantities  of  eels  and  pike  are  taken  from  the  waters.    Near  the 


n 


I 


fi 


r 


Bmmm 


( 
I 

(   •  i 


I  t 


If  : 


t    1 


1 


I     1 


308     R'jute  74. 


SOREL. 


E.  end  of  the  lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nicolet  River,  8  M.  from  St.  Gre« 

poire  Station,  is  Kioolet,  with  2,500  inhabitants,  with  a  noble  college,  with 

its  250  students  and  attractive  parks  and  gardens.     On  the  N.  shore  is 

Riviere  du  Loup  en  hmif,  or  Louiseville,  near  which  are  the  celebrated 

St.  Leon  Springs  (»SV.  L<nn  Sprint/K  Hotel),  reached  by  daily  stage  from 

Louiseville,    in   5  M.       St.  Franqoii  du  Lac  is  a  pretty  village  at  the 

mouth  of  the  great  St.  Francis  Hiver.  I'he  Ahenakis  House  is  a  well- 
known  sumnier-resort.  with  valuable  saline  mineral  springs.  The  route 
frn-M  MontroMl  is  by  rail  vl'i  Vainaska  ;  or  by  stoamer  to  Sorel. 

On  leaving  Lake  St.  Peter,  the  steamer  threads  her  way  through  an 

archipclugo  of  low  islands,  and  soon  reaches  Sorel  (Lemonier^ s\  a  city  of 

6,700  inhabitants,  with  3  weekly  pnpers  (2  French),  a  Catholic  college, 

several  shipyards  and  foundries,  and  a  large  country  trade.     It  is  at  the 

mouth  of  the  great  River  Richelieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  George  and  Lake 

Clifimplain,  whose  head-waters  are  niterlocked  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 

Navigation  is  kept  up  between  this  point  and  the  Lake-Champlain  ports  by 

the  Chambly  Canal.     Tlie  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  its  broad  streets 

are  ad<nned  with  trees.     In  the  centre  is  the  Royal  Square,  whose  tine  old 

ehus  are  much  admired.     Surel  is  the  terminus  of  the  northern  division  of 

the  Southeastern  lUilwa}*. 

Fort  Richelieu  was  built  on  this  Fite  in  1641,  and  was  re-oonptruct<'d  and  enlarged 
by  Capt.  Sorel,  of  the  Carignan  Regiment,  under  orders  from  (Jov.  de  Tracy  (10^). 
In  November,  1776,  it  was  occupied  hy  Col  Easton.  with  a  strong  force  of  Continen- 
tal troops  and  a  flotilla,  and  this  detachment  captured  11  sail  of  vessels,  containing 
Gen.  Prescott  and  the  liritish  garrison  of  Montreal.  Son  I  wji,-;  for  many  years  the 
suum'er  residence  of  the  Canadian  governors,  and  on  being  vi.«ited  by  Prince  WiU 
liam  Henry  of  England  (afterward  King  William  IV.)  an  abortive  attempt  was  made 
to  change  its  name  to  William  Henry. 

Berthier  en  haul  is  6  M.  above  Sorel,  on  the  N.  shore  (semi-daily  steam- 
ers), and  is  an  important  manufacturing  town  of  1,700  inhabitants,  situated 
amid  rich  farming  lands.  It  was  the  birth[)lace  of  M.  Furibuult,  longtime 
a  N.  W.  Commissioner,  and  founder  of  Faribault,  Minnesota.  Back  of 
Berthier  are  the  populous  towns  of  St.  Cuthbert,  St.  Norbet,  St.  Felix  de 
Valois,  jind  St.  KUzabeth.  Lnnoraie  is  9  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  Shore), 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  St.  Lawrence  &  Ir  dustry  RMilwa3',  which 
run*  N.  W.  12  M.  to  St.  Thomas  and  .lojiette,  and  thence  into  Montcalm 
County.  16  M.  above  Sorel  (S.  shore)  is  Contrecoeur,  noted  for  its  maple- 
su^-ar;  and  Lavaltrie  is  15  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  shore),  and  has  2 
lighthouses.  6  M.  above  is  St.  Suli)ice  (N.  shore),  beyond  which  is  L'As- 
somption  (Hotel  Richard),  a  prosperous  village  of  2,600  inhabitants. 
Above  the  N.  shore  village  of  Repcutigny  the  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa 
River  (Hivi6re  dcs  Prairies)  flows  Into  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  diverged 
from  the  Ottawa  at  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 

Varennes  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  S.  shore,  opposite  Isle  St.  Therese, 
and  connected  by  a  ferry  with  Bout  de  I'lsle,  and  with  Montreal  (16  M.  dis- 
tant) by  a  daily  steamer.     It  has  826  inhabitants,  and  manufactures  many 


.  y 

« 

1 

• 

« 

1 

' « 

n  St.  Gre- 

liege,  with 

^.  shore  is 

celebrated 

stBge  from 

age  at  the 

is  a  well- 
The  route 

through  an 
i),  a  city  of 
lie  college, 
[t  is  at  the 
Q  and  Lake 
he  Hudson, 
ain  ports  by 
road  streets 
osc  tine  old 
I  division  of 


I  and  enlarged 
I  Tracy  (1066). 
e  of  Contir.en- 
»ls,  containing 
lany  years  tlie 
)y  Prince  Wil- 
>aipt  was  made 


-daily  steam- 
i\nts,  situated 
ult,  long  time 
ta.     Back  of 
,  St.  Felix  de 
jr  (N.  Shore), 
ilwny,  which 
ito  Montcalm 
for  its  maple- 
)),  and  has  2 
•hich  is  L'As- 
I   inhabitants. 
Df  the  Ottawa 
ving  diverged 

e  St.  Therese, 
real(16M.  dis- 
factures  many 


i 


i        .        I 

MONTREAL. 


Bonsecours  Market 

Post  Office 

Court  lioiise  .  .  .  ■ 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building  . 
St.  Ann'n  Market  .  . 
Military  School  .  .  . 
Dominion  Square    .    , 


CHURCHES. 

10.  St.  Peter's  Cathedral  . 

11.  Notre  Dame    .... 

12.  Christ   Church  Cathe- 

dral   

i;?.   Gesu  (Jesuits.).     .    .    . 

14.  St.  Patrick'H  (Cath.)    . 

1.").   American 

Iti.   Trinity 

ir.   Notre  Dame  de  Bonse- 
cours     

IH.  St.  James  (Cath.)     .    . 

19.   St.  Georfje  (Epis.)  .    . 

2().  St.  Paul  (Pres.)    .    .    . 

21.  Archbishop's  Palace    . 


F.  :.. 
K.4. 
F.  4. 

C.  .•3. 

D.  r>. 

F.  4. 

C.  4. 


C.4. 

E.r,. 

D.n. 
I).  ,s. 
D.  4. 
B.  4 
F.  4 


F.  .- 
F.  .*{. 
C.  4. 
C.  4. 
C.  4. 


4(1. 

41. 
42. 


Black  Nunnery   .    .    .  £.  5. 

Gray  Nunnery    ...  A.  3. 

Seni'inary  of  St.  Sulpice  E.  .'>. 

Seminars'  of  Priests     .  A.  'J. 

St.  Marv's  College  .    .  l).:i. 

McGiUtollfge    .    .    .  C.  2. 

Molson's  College      .    '.  II.  4. 
General  Hospital     .    F,.  .'',  4. 

Hotel  Dieu E.  1. 

Skating  Uink  .    .    .    .  B.  .'{. 

Victoria  Square  .    .    .  D.  4. 

Place  D'Arnies    .    .    .  E.  ■"». 

Viger  Square   ....  F.  4. 

Champ  de  Mars  .    .    •  F.  4. 

HOTELS. 

St.  Lawrence  Hull  .    .  E.  4. 

Albion D.  .'>. 

Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  Sta- 
tion    C.  .">. 

C.  P.  R.  R.  Station  .    .  C.  4. 

Windsor  llotei     .    .    .  C.  3. 


I    h..^    tv^f  «M«  <m 


|][lCSDDDDDDaDD[]DDDDD[ 


%      •  •     •         • 


1.  Bonseconrs  Market 

2.  Post  Office 

■S.  Court  House    .    .    ,    , 
.l  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building 
(i.  St.  Ann's  Market    .    . 
S.  Military  School   .    .    , 
!).  Dominion  Square    .    , 


i  #  i 

MONTREAL. 


F. ;.. 

E.4. 
F.  4. 
C.3. 
D.5. 
F.  4. 
C.4. 


CHURCHES. 

10.  St.  Peter's  Cathedral  .  C.  4. 

11.  Notre  Dame    ....  E.  5. 

12.  Christ   Church  Cathe- 

dral    D.  3. 

1.'!.  Gc8u  (Jesuits.) .    .    .    .  D.  3. 

14.  St.  Patrick'H  (Cath.)    .  D.  4. 
American B.  4. 

It;.  Trinity F.  4. 

1".  Notre  Dame  de  Bonse- 
conrs      F.  .'i 

15.  St.  James  (Cath.)  .  .  F.  3. 
19.  St.  George  (Epi«.)  .  .  C.  4. 
2().  St.  Paul  (Fres.)  .  .  .  C.  4. 
21.  Archbishop's  Palace    .  C.  4. 


2'>. 


Black  Nunnery 

23.  Gray  Nunnery    . 

24.  Seminary  of  St.  S 


E.S. 

A.  3. 

Sulpice  £.  5. 


2.5.  Seminary  of  Priests     .  A.  2. 

2(J.  St.  Mary's  College  .    .  D.  3. 

27.   McGill  College    .    .    .  C.  2. 

'2H.  Molson's  College  .  •.  H.4. 
2t).  General  Hospital     .    £.  fi,  4. 

.m  Hotel  Dion E.  1. 

31.  Skating  Rink  ....  B.  3. 

32.  Victoria  Square  .  .  .  D.  4. 
.V!.  Place  D'Armes  .  .  .  E.  6. 
.")4.  Viger  Square  ....  F.  4. 
.'ti.  Champ  de  Mars  ...  F.  4. 


HOTELS. 

:r>.  St.  Lawrence  Hall  .    .  E.  4. 

m.   Albion D.  .■». 

4<).  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.  Sta- 
tion    C. 

41.  C.  P.  R.  R.  Station  .    .  C 

42.  Windsor  Hotei    .    .    .  C. 


I   ta.^  t       0  a 


JOGSQ 


ooDoriaam 


m[]D[^[S"g' 


ir 


IDDDDODDflDDDDDL 


luee 


St., 
tor' 


nier. 

Vict 

Victd 

the 

and 

natic 

Westl 

r.tcinf 

quarfl 
R( 

Merci 

St., 

Mary] 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.      309 


carriages.  The  church  is  a  large  and  stately  building,  with  two  conspicu- 
ous towers.  1  M.  from  the  village  are  the  celebrnted  Varennes  Sprinffs^ 
which  are  saline  in  character  and  possessed  of  valuable  medicinal  proper- 
ties. One  of  them  emits  great  quantities  of  carbonated  hydrogen  gas,  and 
the  other  yields  2  -  3  gallons  a  minute,  and  is  much  visited  by  invalids. 
Arrangements  are  being  made  to  establish  a  first-class  summer  resort  at 
this  point.  Above  Varennes  is  Bou  .etiille,  the  birthplace  of  Chief  Justice 
Sir  Louis  Hippolyte  Lafontaine.  ''  ».e  low  and  marshy  islands  otT  this  shore 
are  famous  for  duck-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here  at 
the  close  of  the  winter.  Pointe  aux  Trembles  is  to  the  N.,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  and  is  an  ancient  village  dating  from  1674. 

'*  We  were  gliding  past  Longueuil  and  Boucherrille  on  the  (left),  and  Pointe  aux 
Trembles, '  bo  called  from  having  been  originally  covered  with  aspens,'  on  the  (right). 
I  repeat  these  names  not  merely  for  want  of  more  substantial  facts  to  record,  but 
because  they  sounded  singularly  poetic  in  my  ears  There  certainly  was  no  lie  in 
them.  They  suggested  that  some  simple  and  perchance  heroic  human  life  might 
have  transpired  there."    (Thoreau.) 

Clusterii  ,  villages  are  now  seen  on  either  shore,  and  the  river  is  strewn 
with  low  islant;  At  9  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles  the  steamer  reaches 
her  pier  ai  Montreal,  with  the  magnificent  Victoria  Bridge  spanning  the 
river  in  iront. 

75.   Montreal 

Hotels.  —  *  The  Windsor,  on  Dominion  Square,  in  an  elevated  and  quiet  part  of 
the  city,  not  far  i'rorii  the  Mount-Koyai  Park,  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  mag« 
nificeut  hotelH  in  America.  Its  uiciiitecture  is  very  imposing,  and  witaiii  it  has  a 
splendid  frescoed  rucuudu,  marble  scaircjuses,  iiu  immense  diniug-hall,  and  hun< 
dred$i  of  airv  and  comfortable  •♦h'»mber<>  wifh  imf  nnd  cold  wnter,  and  all  rnnven- 
iences  (13.50-5  a  day).  The  Balmoral  is  an  elegant  hotej,  erected  in  1885-86, 
with  a  graystone  front  210  ft.  long,  on  Nocre-Dame  St.  ($2-3  a  day). 

St.  Lawrence  Hall,  13ii  6t.  James  St.,  id  a  comfortivble  hotel  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  near  the  post-oliice  and  banks.  Thu  Albion,  141  McUill  St.,  is  frequented  by 
country  merchants  and  commercial  men.  The  chi«^f  French  hote  is  the  Riche- 
lieu, a  well-kept  house  on  St.  Vincent  St.,  f  1.5J-2.5U  a  day.  Ilotei-omnibuses 
meet  all  trains  and  boats. 

Restaurants.  —  Alexander's,  391  Notre  Dame  St.;  Freeman's,  231  St.  James 
St. ;  Compain'rt,  116  St.  t"ran9oi8  Xavier  St. ;  The  Bodega,  3 JO  Notre  Dame  St.  ;  Vic- 
tor's, 146  St.  James  St.  ;  Walker's,  372  Notre  Dame  St. 

Clubs.  —  Metropolitan,  on  Beaver  Ilall ;  and  St.  James,  on  Dorchester  St. 

Amusements.  —  Theatre  Royal,  19  Cott6  St.,  open  usually  during  the  sum- 
mer. Operatic  and  theiitrical  entertainments,  in  winter,  at  the  Academy  of  Music, 
Victoria  St  Lectures  are  given  at  the  Association  Hall,  corner  of  Craig  St.  and 
Victoria  Square.  Ijeotures  and  other  entertainments  are  also  given  at  the  hall  of 
the  Mechanics'  Institute,  204  St.  James  St.  The  Victoria  i^kating  Kink,  Drummond 
and  Dorchester  Sts  ,  is  famous  for  its  winter  carnivals,  lacrosse,  the  Canadian 
national  game,  is  played  at  the  grounds  on  Sherbrooke  St.  We-*!  and  St.  Catherine  St. 
West.  Football,  cricket,  golf,  bicycling,  fox-hunting,  racket,  lawn  tennis,  horse- 
r  icing,  tobogganing,  snow-shoeing,  curling,  all  have  their  devotees  and  their  head- 
quarters     T!ic  Thistle  Rink  i.^  near  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Beadinic- Booms.  —  Young  Men's  Christian   Association,  Victoria  Square; 
Merchants'  Exchange.  11  St.  Sacrament  St.  ;   .Mechanics'  Institute,  204  St.  Jamea 
St.;  Instltut  Canadlen,  111  Notre  Dame  St.;  Union  Catholique  (20,000  vols.),  St 
Mary's  Church. 


310      Route  75, 


MONTREAL. 


Post-Office,  on  St.  James  St.,  near  St.  Franyoia  Xavicr  St.  Telegraph^wxttKi 
ofRce  of  the  Montreal  Telegraph  Company,  corner  of  St.  Sftcrament  and  St.  Fran9oi8 
Xiivier  StH.  Monetf.  —  American  and  British  gold  and  paper  money  passes  at  par, 
but  silver  is  at  a  discount. 

Garria8r«H«  —  (One-horse.)  For  1  - 2  persons  for  20  minutes,  25  cents;  for  \ 
hr.,  40  c.  ;  by  the  hour,  75  c,  and  GO  o.  for  each  additional  hour.  For  3-4  per- 
sons, for  20  minutes,  or  Ie.s8,  50  c. ;  for  ,\  hr,.  60  c. ;  by  the  hour,  ^  1,  and  75c.  for 
each  additional  hour.  (Two-horse  carriiiges.)  For  1-2  persons,  for  ^  hr.,  or  less, 
65  c. ;  by  the  hour,  $  1.  For  3  -  4  persons,  for  \  hr. ,  or  less,  75  c.  ;  by  the  hour,  ^\.US>. 
Fractions  of  hours  charged  y>ro  nt/a.  The  tariff  by  the  hour  applies  to  all  rural 
excursions,  for  which  carriagos  are  engaged  in  the  city.  The  legal  tariff  id  augnieuted 
50  per  cent  between  midnigiit  and  4  a.  m.    Trunks  and  boxe.^i,  10  c.  each. 

H(>r8e-carg  run  across  the  city  on  C'raig,  Bleury,  and  St.  Catherine  Sts.  ;  also 
on  St.  Mary,  Notre  Dame,  and  St.  Joseph  Sts.  ;  and  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.  to  St. 
Jean  Raptistc. 

Railivays.  —  To  Boston  by  way  of  St.  Albans,  Concord,  and  Ix)well,  in  334  M. ; 
or  by  way  of  Fitchburg.  in  3i4  M.  ;  or  by  the  (Canadian  Pacific.  To  New  York,  by 
Rutland  and  Albany,  3d5  M.  (by  Iial<e  Champlain,  405  M.) :  to  Quebec,  172  M.  (in 
7  hrs.) :  to  Plattsburg,  63  M.  ;  to  Rouse's  Point,  60  M. ;  to  Toronto,  333  M.  (14-15 
hrs.) ;  to  Detroit  (861  M.)  and  Chicago  (1,145  M.) ;  to  Ottawa,  164  M. 

Stages  run  out  from  Montreal  in  all  directions,  daily.  To  St.  C^saire,  Marie- 
ville,  and  Chambly  ;  St.  Eustache,  St.  Augustin,  St.  Scholastique,  St.  Columban, 
and  St.  Canut ;  New  Gla.sgow,  Kilkenny,  St.  .Itirome,  Stanbridge,  St.  Lin,  St.  Hip- 
polyte,  St.  Agathe  des  Mouts,  St.  Ad^le,  St  .Janvier,  St.  Th^r^se  de  Blainville,  St. 
Sophie ;  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  Mascouche,  Terrebonne,  and  St.  Sauveur ;  Pointe  aux 
Trembles,  Snult  au  Recollet,  and  St.  Martin. 

Steam^lripg.  —The  first-class  ocean  steamships  of  the  Allan  Lit  e  and  the  Do- 
minion Line  leave  Montreal  weekly  during  the  season  of  navigation,  for  Liverpool. 
The  Beaver,  Donaldson,  Temperley,  Ross,  Thomson,  and  Great  Western  LineH 
also  run  weekly  and  fortnightly  steamships  between  Montreal  and  Liverpool, 
Glasgow,  London,  Bristol,  and  Newcastle-on-Tyne  ;  the  Canadian  and  Brazilian, 
to  the  West  Indies  and  Brazil ;  the  Montreal  and  Acadian,  to  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland ;  the  Hansa  Line,  to  Hamburg  and  Antwerp ;  and  the  Dobell  and  Black- 
Diamond  Lines,  to  Gape  Breton  and  Newfoundland.  The  Richelieu  Line  runs 
daily  steamers  to  the  lower  river-ports  and  Quebec.  The  morningand  evening  trains 
to  Lachine  connect  with  the  steamboats  for  Ottawa,  by  way  of  the  Ottawa  Kiver.  The 
vessels  of  the  Canitdiiia  Navigation  Company  ascend  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Like  On- 
t.ii'io,  from  Montrevl  to  the  upper  river-ports,  Toronto  and  Hamilton.  The  St. 
//e'lneand  Ottavvi  make  senn-weekly  trips  to  the  Bay  of  Quint6.  The  Quebec 
8.  rt.  Co.  sends  a  fortnightly  steamer  from  Montreal  to  Perci'-,  Charlottetown,  and 
Pictou  The  CU'imh'tj  runs  semi-weekly  from  Montreal  to  Verch^rcs,  Contrecoeur, 
Sorel,  St.  Ours,  St.  Denis,  St.  Antoine,  St.  ChRrles,  St.  Marc,  St.  Ililaire,  Beloeil.  St 
Mat'iiias,  and  Chamblv  (!)0  M.>.  The  Three  Rivers  runs  semi-weekly  to  Verch^res, 
Sorel.  Maskinonn^,  Riviere  du  Loup  en  hauf,  Yaniachiche,  Port  St.  Francis, 
Ch  implain,  ami  Tiiree  Rivers.  The  lierthler  runs  semi-weekly  to  Repentigny,  St. 
Siilpjoe.  Lavaltrie,  Lanoraie,  and  Berthier.  The  Terrehovve  runs  daily  to  Bon- 
clierville,  Vareniies,  llout  de  ri.<»le,  Laclienaie,  L'As-ioinption,  and  Terrebonne 
(24  M.).  Ferry  steamers  cross  the  river  at  frequent  intervals  to  La  Prairie,  St.  Lam- 
bert, and  Luugueuil. 

Montreal,  tht  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  "the  Queen 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  on  the  continent. 
It  is  situated  on  an  island  (at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers)  containing  197  square  miles,  and  which,  from  its  fertility, 
has  been  called  the  Garden  of  Canada.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  li|  M.  wide 
opposite  the  city,  and  the  river-front  is  lined  for  over  1  M.  with  lofty  and 
massive  walls,  quays,  and  terraces  of  gray  limestone,  unequalled  else- 
where in  the  world,  except  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St.  Petersburg.  The 
commercial  buildings  of  the  city  are  generally  of  stone,  in  plain  and  substan- 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.     311 


It.  Fran9ol8 
sses  at  par, 

snts;  for  \ 
K  3-4  per- 
,ml  T5c.  for 
hr.,  or  lew, 
hour,*l'-iB- 
to  all  rural 
la  augnieuteu 

Je  St8.  -,   also 
Iain  St.  to  St. 

»U,ln334M.-, 
New  York,  by 
.ec,172M.(in 

333  M.  (14-^ 

D«^8aire,  Marie- 
St.  Coluinban, 
t.  Lin,  St  UJP- 
,  BlalnvUle,  bt- 
ur ;  Polnte  aux 

,i,  e  and  the  Do- 
I  for  Liverpool. 
Western  Lin«f 
and  Liverpool, 
n  and  Brazilian. 
it.  John's,  New- 
.obell  and  Black- 

elieu  Une  runs 
Sevoning  trains 
ttawaUiver   The 
ce  and  L^ke  On- 
nilton.    The   M. 
jt6.    The  Quebec 
arlottetown,  and 
Nrcs,  OontrerxBur, 
lilaire,  Beloeil.  St 
>klV  to  Verchferes, 

Vort  St.   *'"*"«'?• 
\n  Renentigny,  ^^• 
fun.  daily  to  Bon- 
and  Terrebonne 
Prairie,  St.  Lam- 

and"  the  Queen 
3n  the  continent, 
.a  and  St.  Law- 
irom  its  fertility, 
fee  is  li  M.  v^ide 
k  with  lofty  and 
unequalled  else- 
Ipetersburg.    The 
jlain  and  substan- 


tial architecture,  and  the  number  of  tine  pul)lic  building  is  verv  large. 
Three  fourths  of  the  impulation  are  Catholics,  most  of  whom  are  French,  and 
the  bright  suburban  vilhiges  are  ahnost  entirely  inhabite*!  by  Krenclmien. 
Altliuugh  Montreal  is  1)8(J  M.  from  the  sc  i,  it  is  the  port  whii;h  receives  the 
greater  part  of  the  importations  to  Canada;  and  its  manufacturing  interests 
are  extensive  and  important.  The  admirable  systems  of  railway  and 
steamboat  conimunicatioii  which  centre  here,  have  nmde  it  the  connuercial 
emporium  of  the  North;  and  new  lines  of  tnilHc  and  internal  railways 
are  being  built  from  year  to  year,  binding  all  the  St.  Lawrence  counties  to 
this  city.  Montreal  forms  the  Metropolitieal  See  of  the  Anglican  Church 
in  Canada,  and  is  the  capital  of  a  Uoman-Cathollc  dioce-e.  The  water- 
supply,  street-lamps,  paving,  and  lire  department  are  similar  to  those  of 
American  cities  of  the  tirst  rank. 

The  population  of  Montreal  was  216,650,  at  the  census  of  1891,  and 
there  are  60,000  more  in  the  adjacent  villages  on  the  island  Of  the  citi- 
zens, 120,000  are  rniich,  22,000  Irish,  and  155.000  Roman  Catholics. 
The  valuation  of  real  estate  is  about  5^126,000,000;  its  imports  in  1880, 
$37,103,869 ;  and  its  exports,  ^  30,221,1)04.  In  the  same  year  750  vessels 
arrived  here  from  the  sea,  and  the  customs  revenue  is  $  10,000,000.  The 
city  has  \'i  banks,  74  churches,  and  more  than  30  newspapers  and  magazines 
(in  English  and  French).  There  are  numerous  charitable  and  benevolent 
organizations,  and  societies  for  the  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  French,  Ger- 
man, and  New-England  residents. 

Victoria  Square  is  a  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of  McGill 
and  St.  James  Sts.,  ornamented  with  a  fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria.  On  its  S.  side  is  the  elegant  Gothic  building  which  per- 
tains to  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  the  oldest  society  of  that 
name  in  America.  On  the  lower  side  of  the  Square  are  the  stately  Albert 
Bnil(linf/s,  devoted  to  commerce. 

Passing  to  the  N.  E.  along  St.  James  St.,  the  visitor  sees  m-iny  fine 
stores,  and  the  attractive  buildings  of  *Molson's  Bank  (of  Ohio  stone  and 
Scotch  granite),  the  Merchants'  Bank,  the  stately  new  *  Post-Oifice,  and 
other  svmmetrical  and  solidiv  constructed  edifices.  This  street  is  the 
Broadway  of  Montreal.  St.  Peter  St.  runs  to  the  S  E.  by  the  stately 
Caverhill  Buildings  (of  cut  limestone  in  Italian  Palazzo  architecture)  to 
(S7.  Pdul  St.,  the  seat  of  an  extensive  wholesale  trade. 

Opposite  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal 
(beyond  St.  Francois  Xavier  St,  the  Wall  St.  of  Montreal)  the  Place 
(V Armes  is  seen.  This  square  was  so  named  because  it  was  the  parade- 
ground  of  Montg(mierv's  American  army  in  1775.  Here  is  the  lofty  front 
of  the  *  Church  of  Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  largest  churches  on  the  conti- 
nent, with  seats  for  8,000  persons  on  the  floor  and  2,000  in  the  galleries.  It 
is  255^  ft.  long  and  144^  ft.  wide,  aid  has  a  chancel  window  of  stained  glass 


! 

:itl 

'I' 


•    A 


■ 


312      Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


t 


I  • 


64  X  32  ft.  in  size.  The  interior  is  brilliantly  and  theatrically  decorated. 
There  are  two  towers  on  the  front,  encli  220  ft.  high,  and,  like  the  church, 
in  the  simplest  form  of  modia»val  Gothic  architecture.  One  tower  has  a 
chime  of  bells,  and  in  the  other  hangs  "  Gros  Bourdon,"  the  largest  bell 
in  America,  weighing  nearly  16  tons.  The  tower  is  generally  open  (fee  of 
26  c.  to  the  door-keeper),  and  afl'ords  from  its  summit  a  noble  *  view  of 
the  city  and  its  environs  (especially  of  the  city  and  river,  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  and  the  islands).  The  suburbs  of  Laprairie,  Longueuil,  and  St. 
Lambert,  the  Lachiiie  Rapids,  and  the  blue  mountains  of  Vermont,  are 
seen  from  this  point.  Alongside  the  church  is  the  ancient  Seminary  of 
8f.  Suljjice,  on  the  site  of  the  Seminary  of  1667,  as  the  church  is  near  the 
site  of  the  Notre  Dame  of  1671.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1824-9, 
and  was  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Telmesse  in  partibus.  The  semi- 
nary consists  of  low  and  massive  buildings,  surrounded  with  gardens  and 
court-yards  of  spotless  neatness.  It  has  24  priests  connected  with  its 
various  works. 

"  I  Boon  found  my  way  to  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame.    I  saw  that  it  was  of  (rreat 

siae  and  signified  something Coming  from  tlie  hurrahing  mob  and  the  rattling 

carriages,  we  pushed  back  the  listed  door  of  this  church,  and  found  ourselves  in- 
stantly in  an  atmosphere  which  might  be  siu*red  to  thought  and  religion,  if  one  had 

any It  was  a  great  cave  in  the  midst  of  a  city  ;  and  what  were  the  altars  and 

the  tinsel  but  the  sparkling  stnlactics,  into  which  you  entered  in  a  moment,  and 
where  the  still  atmosphere  and  the  sombre  light  disposed  to  serious  and  profitable 
thought  ?  Such  a  cave  at  hand,  which  you  can  enter  any  day,  is  wortli  a  thousand 
of  our  churches  which  are  open  only  Sundays  "   (Thoreau.) 

Fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes  are  several  handsome  buildings  occu- 
pied by  banks  and  insurance  companies.  A  short  distance  to  the 
E.,  on  Notre  Dame  St.,  an  archway  on  the  r.  admits  one  to  the  extensive 
and  secluded  Convent  of  the  Black  Nuns  (founded  in  1657).  Farther  on, 
the  •  Court  House  is  seen  on  the  1.,  —  a  stately  stone  building  in  Ionic 
architecture  (300  X  125  ft.),  back  of  which  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or 
Parade  Ground,  an  open  space  covering  28,800  square  yards,  and  ample 
enough  for  the  display  of  3,000  troops.  The  great  structure  fronting  across 
Craig  St.  was  built  for  the  Dominion  Military  School,  which  is  now  estab- 
lished at  Kingston.  The  costly  and  splendid  new  City  Hall  is  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  Champ  de  Mars.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House  the  Jacques 
Cartier  Square  opens  off  Notre  Dame  St.,  and  is  encumbered  with  a  dilapi- 
dated monument  to  Nelson  (erected  ni  1808),  and  two  Russian  guns  from 
Sebastojiol.  Near  the  head  of  this  scjuare,  in  the  an  lent  French  Govern- 
ment building,  is  the  medical  school  of  Laval  University.  The  building 
dates  from  1704,  and  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Auicrican  generals  in 
1775-76,  and  of  the  British  governors  until  Montreal  was  decapitalized. 

By  the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  *Bon8ecoui8  Mar- 
ket may  be  visited.  This  market  is  unrivalled  in  America,  sl}^  is  built 
of  stone,  in  quasi-Doric  architecture,  at  a  cost  of  .15  300,000.  It  is  three 
stories  high,  has  a  lofty  d' me,  and  presents  an  imposing  front  to  the  river. 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75»     313 


icorated. 
church, 
,'er  has  a 
gest  bell 
in  (fee  of 
*  view  of 
!  Victoria 
I,  and  St. 
tnont,  are 
minary  of 
8  near  the 
n  1824-9,     ^ 
The  scml- 
irdens  and 
5d  with  its 

was  of  preat 
I  tlie  rattling 
ourselve8  In- 
n,  If  one  had 
he  altars  and 
nionient,  and 
nil  profitable 
,h  a  thousand 

Idings  occu- 
,tance  to  tiie 
le  extensive 
Farther  on, 
ing  in  Ionic 
\de  Mars,  or 
L  and  ample 
)nting  across 
lis  now  estab- 
is  on  the  K. 
the  Jacques 
|with  a  dilapi- 
n  guns  from 
nch  Govcm- 
The  buiUling 
n  generals  in 
■capitalized. 
^seooui  s  Mar- 

,  aiji^  is  l>"i^* 

It  is  three 

it  to  the  river 


The  curious  French  costumes  and  language  of  the  country  people  who 
congregate  here  on  niarket-^lays,  as  well  us  some  |K'cuIiarities  of  the  wnres 
offered  fur  sale,  render  a  visit  very  interesting.  Alongside  of  the  market 
is  the  lionienmrs  Church  (uccommodatiug  '2,{M)  persons),  which  was  built 
in  IG08.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the  Quelu-e  railway  station,  on  the 
site  of  the  extensive  Quebec-date  Barracks;  and  the  Victoria  IMer  makes 
out  into  the  stream  towards  St.  /ftUn's  Jslv,  formerly  a  fortified  depot  of 
amnmnition  and  war  materitl,  which  was  named  by  Champlain  in  honor  of 
his  wife.  The  Isle  is  now  a  lovely  marine  park,  with  forts  and  barracks 
still  standing,  and  is  n;atlu'd  l)v  a  ferrv-steamer  lin>m  Uonsecotn-s  Market. 
To  the  N.,  on  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Viger  Garden,  with  a  small  con- 
servatory and  several  fountains,  fronting  on  which  is  Trinity  Church 
(Episcopal),  built  (»f  Montreal  stone,  in  early  English  (iothic  architecture, 
and  accommodating  4.000  jM'rsons.  N.  of  Trinity,  and  also  <tn  St.  Denis  St., 
is  St.  Jamea  Church  (( 'atholic),  in  the  pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich  stained 
glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dalhousie  Square,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  are  Mol- 
son's  College  (abandoned)  and  St.  Thomas  Church  (Episcopal),  with  the 
great  buildings  of  Molson's  brewery  and  the  Papineau  Market  and  Square 
(on  which  are  the  works  of  the  Canadian  Rubber  Co. ).  The  suburb  of 
Hochelaga  (see  page  318)  is  about  1  M.  beyond  the  Papineau  Square. 

MoOill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria 
Square  to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in 
the  intersecting  St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  Buildings  are 
rich  and  massive,  and  just  beyond  is  St.  Aim's  Market,  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  Elgin  signed  the  obnoxious 
Rebellion  Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a  mob,  who  also  drove  the 
Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  the  building.  On  ac- 
count of  these  riots,  JMontreal  was  decapitalizcd  the  same  year.  Com- 
missioners' St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  Market  and  the  elegant  Custotn- 
House  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river-walls.  Ottawa  St.  leads  W. 
to  the  heavy  masonry  of  the  Lachine-Canal  Basins  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver-Hall  Hill  run  N.  from  Victoria  Square,  passing 
Zion  Churchy  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The  armed 
congregation  repulsed  the  Catholic  assailants  twice,  and  then  the  troops 
restored  order,  40  men  having  been  killed  or  badly  wounded.  Just  above  is 
the  Baptist  Church,  overlooked  by  the  tall  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitari- 
an), with  St.  Andrew's  Presbyterian  Church  on  the  r.  A  few  steps  to  the 
r.,  Lagaucheti6re  St.  leads  'j  St.  Patrick's  Church,a,  stately  Gothic  build- 
ing 240  X  90  ft.,  accommodating  6,000  persons,  and  adorned  with  a  spire 
225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow  lancet-windows  are 
filled  with  stained  glass.  N  ;r  by,  on  Bleury  St.,  are  the  massive  stone 
buildings  of  Sc.  Mary's  Co)  j  (Jesuit;  9  professors)  and  the  *  Church 
of  the  OesH.  The  nave  of  the  church  (75  (t.  high)  is  bounded  by  rich 
14  - 


314     R<mU  76. 


MONTREAL. 


J' 


composite  columns ;  and  the  transepts  are  144  ft.  long,  and  are  adorned 
with  fine  frescos  in  chiaroscuro. 

Over  the  High  Altar  is  the  Crucifixion,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Spotless  T^nmb, 
above  which  is  ttie  Nativity.  Against  the  colunnit*  at  the  crossing  of  the  nave  and 
transepts  are  statues  of  St  Mark  with  a  lion,  St.  Matthew  witlj  an  ox,  St.  Luke  with 
a  child,  and  St.  John  with  an  eagle  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  are  frescos  of  St. 
Thomas  Repentant,  the  Bleeding  Lamb,  and  the  Virgin  and  Child  amid  Angelic 
Choirs.  Medallions  along  the  nave  contain  portraits  of  eight  saints  of  the  Order  of 
Jesus.  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  tnin'cpt,  is  a  fresco  of  the  Trinity, 
near  whicli  is  a  painting  of  St.  AloysiusUonzaga  n'ceiving  his  first  communion  from 
St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To  the  r.  is  a  fre-sco  of  St. 
Ignatius  lioyola  in  the  Grotto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  1.  is  Chri.'it's  Appearance  to 
hiDi  near  Home,  while  above  is  Christ  blessing  Little  Children.  Over  St.  Joseph's 
Altar,  in  the  r.  transept,  is  a  painting  of  the  Eternal  Father :  on  the  r.  of  which  is 
another  picture,  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka  receiving  ('onimunion  fnnu  Angels.  On  the 
1.  is  a  fresco  of  the  Martyrdom  of  the  Jesuits  at  NHga-^aki  (Japan) ;  on  the  r  is  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  Bobola,  in  Poland  ;  and  above  i»  the  liaising  of  l^aziirufl. 
On  the  ceiling  is  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  W.  on  St.  Ciitherinc  St.,  one  soon  roaches  *  Christ 
Church  Cathedral,  the  best  re))rc.sentativc  of  Knglish  Gotiiic  nrctiitectnre 
in  America.  It  is  built  of  Montreal  and  Caen  stone,  and  Is  212  ft.  long, 
and  100  ft.  wide  at  the  transepts.  A  stately  stone  spire  springs  from  the 
intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts,  and  attains  a  height  of  224  ft.  The 
choir  is  46  ft.  long,  is  paved  with  encaustic  tiles,  and  contains  a  fine 
stained-glass  window.  On  either  side  are  elaborately  carved  stalls  for 
the  clergy;  and  the  pointed  roof  of  the  nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by 
columns  of  Caen  stone  whose  capitals  are  carved  to  represent  ('anadian 
plants.  In  front  of  the  cathedral  is  a  monument  to  Hisliop  Fulford,  and 
on  the  N.  is  a  quaint  octagonal  chapter-house,  where  tlie  diocesan  library 
is  kept.  The  residence  of  the  Lord  Bishop  (and  Metropolitan  of  Canada) 
is  near  this  building.  One  sqmire  K.  of  the  cathedral  (corner  of  Cathcart 
and  University  Sts.)  is  the  large  and  interesting  Ntdurnl-IIi^torij  Afuseum, 
which  is  open  to  the  public  (fee,  25  c).  The  Kerrier  Collection  of  Kgyptian 
Antiquities  and  the  cases  of  Canadian  birds  arc  of  much  interest.  Farther 
out,  back  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is  the  Crystal  Palace. 

McGill  Uni.versity  (500  students)  is  at  the  ft>ot  of  Mount  Royal,  in  beau- 
tiful grounds.  It  was  endowed  in  181."]  and  opened  in  1821,  and  has  fac- 
ulties of  Arts  (!>  p'-oCessors),  Medicine  (10  professors),  and  Law  (8  profes- 
sors). The  ^ledical  School  is  N.  of  the  main  building,  ami  the  Museum 
is  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  Fniversity  is  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  J.  W. 
Dawvion  (see  pap-  i:)8).and  is  the  luost  nourishing  institution  of  the  kuid 
in  Canada.  Affiliated  with  it  are  the  contiguous  Presbyterian  and  Wes- 
leyan  theological  collci^es,  and  the  Congregational  and  Anglican  Diocesan 
colleges.  The  reservoir  for  the  water-supply  «>f  Montreal  is  back  of  the 
(Tniversitv.  .'i)0  ft.  above  the  river,  and  hasacipacity  of  .'Ml, 500,000  gallons. 
The  water  is  taken  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  1\  M.  above  the  Lachine 
Rapids.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  city  may  be  obtained  from  this  terrace, 
and  on  the  W.  is  Ravenscrny,  (he  mansion  of  the  late  Sir  Hugh  AUaa. 


The 
runs  t 
Crand 

The 
i^rcht 
oonverr 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.      315 


idorned 

nave  and 
jUke  with 
ico«  of  t^fc- 
A  AngeWc 
e  Order  of 
le  Trinity, 
inlon  from 
iifico  of  St. 
warance  to 
,t.  Jofeph'8 
of  whicii  is 
.\s.  On  the 
the  r  is  the 
of  Laatrus.     ^ 

es  *  Cbrist 
rcUiteclnre 
512  ft.  long, 
p,  from  tlie 
i24ft.    The 
itains  a  fine 
2d  stalls  for 
iustnined  by 
nt  Civnjiirutn 
iMilford,  and 
•osun  libniry 
11  of  Cunivda) 
r  of  Civthcnrt 

» of  i:gypt»«n 

est.    Inuther 

>yal,  in  beau- 
luul  has  fac- 

|aw  (8  profes- 
Ihe  Museum 

lof  Dr.  J.  ^V. 

1,  of  the  kn\d 
[ian  and  Wes- 
luan  Diocesan 
Is  back  of  the 
L.OOO  f^allouB. 
I  the   Lachine 
In  \\\\^  terrace, 
[ugh  Alla'i* 


The  ♦  Oreat  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice  and  the  Montreal  College  are  | 
M.  S.  W.  of  the  Univernity,  and  front  on  the  same  street  (Sherbrooke). 
They  occupy  a  portion  of  the  broad  ecclesiastical  domain  which  is  known 
as  the  Priests'  Farm.  The  incongruous  towers  in  front  of  the  main  build- 
ing pertained  to  the  ancient  college  of  the  17th  century,  and  were  at  that 
time  loopholed  and  held  as  a  part  of  the  defences  of  the  town  against  the 
Iroquois  Indians.  The  Seminary  is  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholic 
priests,  and  has  4  professors  and  112  students.  The  Montreal  College  is 
for  the  education  of  Canadian  youth,  and  has  10  ecclesiastics  for  profes- 
sors and  260  students.  It  was  founded  in  1773  by  the  Sulpicians,  who  still 
remain  in  charge.  The  Seminary  chapel  is  worthy  of  a  vi^it,  and  thr  gar- 
dens about  the  buildings  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  Canada.  Sherbrooke 
St.  and  the  environs  of  Mount  Royal  contain  many  elegant  residences. 

Dorchester  St.  runs  S.  W.  from  Beaver-IIall  Square,  soon  crossing  Uni- 
versity St.,  on  whose  r.  corners  are  the  High  School  and  the  St.  .lames 
Club.  This  street  leads,  on  the  1.,  to  the  Normal  and  Model  Schools;  and 
on  the  r.  to  the  Natural-History  Museum  and  the  Cathedral.  Dorchester 
St.  passes  on  by  St.  Piuil's  Church  (1.  side)  and  the  Knox  Church  (r.  side) 
to  Dominion  Square,  which  occupies  the  site  of  a  cemetery.  In  this 
vicinity  are  several  fine  churches, — the  VVesleyan  Method'st,  a  gniceful 
building  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  the  American  Presb'-terian,  an  ex- 
act copy  of  the  Park  Church  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  and  St.  (ieorge's  Church 
(Episcopal),  an  elegant  edifice  in  decorated  Gothic  architecture,  with  deep 
transepts,  costly  stained  windows,  a  timber  ro<jf,  and  fine  school-buildings 
attached. 

The  new  Roman  Catholic  Cnthedral  is  at  the  cor- 

ner of  Dorchester  and  Cemoti'r>  Stt..  It  is  300  ft.  Idhj?  and  225  ft.  wide  nt  the  tnin- 
Beptdi;  and  is  to  be  Huruiountcd  by  a  stono  dome  264)  ft.  high,  supporttMl  on  4  pierH 
(each  of  which  are  36  ft.  thick)  and  32  ('orinthian  cohinius.  4  minor  doinrs  are  to 
surround  this  noble  piece  of  architectui'u.  The  portico  is  t«)  nwmble  that  of  the 
Roman  St.  Peter's,  8urmounte<l  also  by  coloH.<ial  htatiicit  of  the  A|K)stli's;  and  ffiwH 
entrance  to  the  vo.'»tibule.  which  is  200  h  lont;  and  .'}<»  ft.  wide.  Tiic  interior  colon- 
nades support  lines  of  round  arches  ;  and  there  are  20  minor  cbm>«>ls.  The  exterior 
walls  are  very  massive,  but  extremely  plain  and  rough.  This  building  is  to  supply 
the  place  of  the  (lathedral  on  ."^t.  Denis  St.,  which  was  burncxl  in  1S')2.  The  design 
was  conceived  by  Bishop  Bourget,  who  secured  the  land,  and  after  inspecting  numer- 
ous plans  in  dilFerent  styles,  deterndned  t<i  erect  a  cath<'<iral  like  St.  Peter's  (though 
snialler).  The  architects  went  to  Home  and  studied  the  Vatican  Basilica  carefully, 
and  the  work  was  soon  begim.  At  presj-nt  strenuous  exertions  are  being  made  by 
the  clergy,  monka,  and  nuns  to  procure  the  needful  funds  to  tluish  the  building. 

The  BUhop's  Palace  is  on  the  E.  of  Dominion  Scpiare;  and  r<Mnetery  St. 
runs  thence  to  St.  .loseph's  Church  and  the  Honaventuro  station  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Beyond  this  point  is  the  p<>i)ulf)us  tyf.  Ann*s 
Wavdy  toward  the  great  basins  of  the  LnrliitK^  Canal. 

The  *Gray  Nunnery  is  nearly  i  M.  S.  W.  of  Dominion  Square,  near 
Dorchester  St.,  and  occupies  an  immense  pile  of  stone  buildings.  This 
convent  {VlJopital  Gin'n'al  des  Steurs  (j rises)  was  founded  in  1747,  and 


•} 


316      Ji&uU  75. 


MONTREAL. 


Ill 


I  ;: 


:  '■  \ 


\ 


contains  202  nuns,  116  on  mission,  42  novices  and  postulants,  and  over  600 
patients.  It  takes  care  of  aged  and  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans  and 
foundlings,  and  lias  large  revenues  from  landed  estates.  Over  600  found- 
lings are  received  every  j'ear,  of  whom  more  than  seven  eighths  die,  and 
the  remainder  are  kept  in  the  convent  until  they  reach  the  ngeof  12  years. 
Opposite  the  nunnery  is  Mont  Ste.  Marie,  a  large  building  which  was 
erected  for  a  Baptist  college,  but  has  become  a  ladies'  boarding-school 
(169  students)  under  the  Congregational  Nuns  of  the  Black  Nunnery,  who 
have,  in  the  city,  57  schools  and  12,000  pupils.  This  order  was  founded 
by  Marguerite  Bourgoys  in  1659. 

The  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  N.  of  the  Gesii,  on  St.  Cath- 
erine St.,  and  has  also  an  infant  school  with  over  400  pupils.  The  chapel 
is  built  in  a  light  and  delicate  form  of  Romanesque  architecture,  and  is 
richly  decorated  and  frescoed.  On  the  same  s<juare  are  the  handsome 
stone  buildings  of  the  Catholic  Commercial  Academy.  To  the  E.  (on 
Dorchester  St.)  is  the  General  Hospital,  with  150  beds;  the  Hospice  of  St. 
Vincent  do  Paul  (30  brethren)  and  the  Asile  de  la  Providence  (122  nims) 
are  near  Labelle  St. ;  and  numerous  other  convents  and  nsyhmis  are  found 
throughout  this  singular  city,  which  is  both  Brit'sh  and  French,  commer- 
cial and  monastic,  progressive  and  medieval,  —  combining  American  en- 
terprise with  English  solidity  and  French  ecclesiasticism. 

The  ♦  Uotel  Dieu  de  Ville  Marie  is  about  1  M.  N.  W.  of  Great  St.  James 
St.,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  in  Canada.  The  chapel  is  a  spa- 
cious hall  over  which  is  a  dome  150  ft.  high,  frescoed  with  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Holy  Tamily.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1859,  and  is  con- 
ducted by  about  80  cloistered  nuns  of  the  Order  of  St.  Joseph.  There  are 
generally  about  600  persons  in  the  building,  consisting  of  the  nuns  and 
their  charges,  old  an(i  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans,  and  about  200  sick 
people.  To  the  N.  is  the  populous  French  suburb  (jf  St.  Jean  Baptiste 
(5,000  inhai)itants),  which  is  connected  with  the  city  by  horse-cars  on  St. 
Lawrence  Main  St. 

*  Mount  Boyal  Park,  along  wooded  ridge  750  ft.  high,  covers  430 
acres,  and  was  bouglit  by  the  rity  in  1874,  and  laid  out  by  F.  L.  Olnistead 
Stages  run  through  it  every  half-hour,  starting  from  the  Montre.il  Post- 
Ofiicc,  and  passing  the  Windsor  (tirk(!t  up  nud  back,  25c.;  restaurant  ou 
summit).  A  superb  view  is  aff«)nltMl,  intluding  the  city  and  scores  of  vil- 
lages, the  distant  Adirondacks  and  Green  Mts.,  Kuugemont  and  Ueluiil, 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  and  their  lakes. 

Point  St.  Charles  is  beyond  the  Laeliine-Canal  Basins,  and  is  traversed 
by  the  tracks  of  the  (irand  Trunk  ilaihvay.  Near  the  Victoria  Bridge  is 
a  great  bowlder,  surrounded  by  a  railing,  comuHMUorating  the  place  where 
were  burieo  6,500  Irish  innnigrants,  who  died  here  of  ship-tever  in  he 
summer  of  1847,  The*  Victoria  Bridge  is  the  longest  and  most  costly 
bridge  in  Canada.    It  consists  of  23  spans  of  242  ft.  uach  (the  central  ou9 


MONTREAL. 


nonte?o.     317 


over  600 
ihans  and 
00  found- 
9  die,  and 
'  12  years, 
vhich  waft 
ling-school 
incry,  who 
ft8  founded 

n  St.  Cath- 

The  chapel 

-ture,  and  is 

e  handsome 

,  the  K.  (on 

ospice  of  St. 

e  (122  nuns) 

itns  are  found 

ich,  commer- 

\merican  en- 
eat  St.  .Tames 

apel  is  a  spft" 

cenes  from  the 

59,  and  is  con- 

,\i.    There  are 

the  nuns  and 

sxbout  200  sick 

Jean  Baptiste 

)rse-car8  on  St. 

^h,  covers  4:^0 
F.  L.  OlmstL-ad 
[Montreal  Post- 
restaurant  on 
[d  scores  of  vil- 
liit  and  Uclojil, 

lind  is  traversed 
ctoria  Uridine  is 
Itlie  place  wiu-re 
llu\>-tever  in    he 
luid  most  cofetly 
[(the  central  one 


880  ft.),  resting  on  24  piers  of  bhie  limestono  masonry,  cemented  and  iron- 
riveted,  with  sharp  wedge  faces  to  the  down-current.  The  tubes  contain- 
ing the  track  are  19  X  Hi  ft.  lUid  the  bridge  is  approaclied  by  abutments 
2,600  ft.  long  and  90  It.  wide,  wliich,  witli  the  6,o94  ft.  of  iron  tubing, 
makes  a  total  length  of  9,194  ft.  from  grade  to  gnide  and  over  1^  M.  from 
shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  commenced  in  1H54,  and  finished  in  1859; 
it  contains  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost  $  U,300,000. 
There  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  from  the  central  tube. 

In  the  early  autumn  of  1535  .liujues  Cartier  heard,  from  the  Indians  of  Quel)ec. 
of  a  greater  town  far  up  the  rivei.  The  fearless  Hruton  chief  took  2  boats  and  50 
men,  and  ascended  the  St.  I/vwrence  to  the  Iroquois  town  of  IIochela{;a,  ocrupyinff 
the  present  site  of  the  metropolis  of  (Canada.  "  Before  tlieni,  wnip^>ed  in  forests 
painted  by  the  early  fn>8ts,  rose  the  ridjjy  bacli  of  tlie  Mountain  of  Montreal,  and 
below,  encompassed  with  its  cornfields,  l.iy  the  Indian  town,"  surrounded  with  triple 
palisades  arranged  for  defence.  The  French  were  admitted  withii.  the  walls  and 
rested  on  the  great  public  square,  where  the  women  surrounded  them  in  curiosity, 
and  the  sick  and  maimed  were  brought  to  them  to  be  healed,  "  as  if  a  g(Ml  had  come 
down  among  them."  The  warriors  sat  in  grave  silence  while  he  read  aloud  the 
Passion  of  our  .Saviour  (though  they  understood  not  a  word) ;  then  presents  were 
given  to  all  thi  people,  and  the  French  trumpeters  sounded  a  warlike  melody.  The 
Indians  then  guided  tlieir  guests  to  the  sununit  of  the  adjacent  Uiountain,  whence 
scores  of  leagues  of  unbroken  for«*st  were  overlooked.  Cartier  gave  to  this  fair  emi- 
nence the  name  of  Mont  Royal,  whence  is  derived  the  pre-<ent  name  of  the  city. 

In  1603  this  point  was  visited  by  the  noble  Chiimplain,  but  Ilochelaga  had  disap- 
peared, and  only  a  few  wandering  Algonquins  could  b«'  seen  in  the  country.  The 
Iro<tuois  of  the  great  town  had  been  driven  to  the  S.  by  the  jmwerful  Algonquins 
(such  is  the  Mohawk  tnulition). 

At  a  later  day  a  tax-gatherer  of  Ai^jou  and  a  priest  of  Paris  heard  cele-^tial  voices, 
bidding  them  to  found  a  hospital  (II6t(>l  Dieu)  and  a  college  of  priests  at  Mont 
Royal,  and  the  voices  were  followed  by  apparitions  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Saviour. 
Filled  with  sacred  zeal,  and  brought  together  by  a  singular  accident,  these  men  won 
several  nobles  of  France  to  aid  their  cause,  then  bought  the  Isle  of  Mont  Kcn.-il, 
irnd  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal.  With  the  Lord  of  Maisonneuve 
and  45  associates,  in  a  solemn  service  held  in  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  d*-  I'aris, 
they  con.secrated  the  i'^land  to  the  Holy  Fandly  umler  the  name  of"  Ville  M  rie  de 
Montreal  "  (Feb.,  hvil).  May  18, 1042,  .Mai.xonneuve  and  his  people  lamled  at  Mon- 
treal and  raised  an  altar,  l)efore  which,  when  high  ma.>4s  was  cimcluded,  the  priest 
said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard-seod  that  shall  ari-^^e  and  grow  until  its  bninchei 
overshadow  the  land.  You  are  few,  but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile 
is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall  fill  the  land."  The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded 
in  1617,  and  in  ii)57  the  Sulpicians  of  Paris  established  a  seminary  here.  In  I(i89, 
1,400  Iroijuois  Indians  stormed  the  western  suburbs,  and  killed  200  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  a  short  time  afterwards  Col.  Schuyler  destroyed  Montn'al  with  troopii 
from  New  York,  leaving  only  the  citadel,  which  his  utmost  etforts  could  not  reduce. 
In  1760  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000  men  captured  the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  in- 
habitAnts,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  witli  11  redoubts  and  a  cit4idel.  In  1776 
Kthau  Allen  attacked  Montreal  with  a  handful  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  and 
captured,  with  lOJ  of  his  men.  Gen.  Prescott  s«>nt  them  to  Kugland  <us  "  banditti," 
and  Allen  was  imprisoned  In  Pendennis  Cii^tle.  In  the  fall  of  1776  the  city  wag 
taken  by  the  American  army  under  Gen.  Montgomery.  With  the  dose  of  the  War 
of  1812,  a  brisk  commerce  set  in,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821,  18,707 
inhabitants.  The  completion  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Haihv'ay  greatly  Itvnetitid  this 
place,  and  its  increa.>»e  hiisfur  many  years  b«H>n  steiuly,  substintial,  and  rapid  In 
1832  the  eholeni  destroyetl  1,843  (ter.sons,  out  of  a  pitpulation  of  :jO,(M)0  ;  and  in  1853 
a  large  part  of  the  city  was  burned.  80  years  ago  vessels  of  over  3iK)  tons  could  not 
reach  Montn>al,  but  a  ship-channel  has  been  cleared  by  the  exertions  of  the  mer- 
chants \^headed  by  i^ir  Hugh  Allan),  and  now  the  city  Is  visited  regularly  by  ocean 
iteauabipi  of  4,000  tons,  and  by  tho  largest  veBtwlH  of  the  uercbuut-muriae. 


'■' 


318       lioHle7C.        "AROUxND  THE   MOUNTAIN." 

V6.  The  Environs  of  llontreal. 

Montreiil  Is  ^:  ui'.i -^  >  ;  tiic-  S.  E.  side  of  i."  isinnd  of  Montreal,  wliicli 
is  2b  M.  lotij;,  lu  M.  wi''<%  and  70  Ivl.  ar.iuiid.  It  is  divided  into  lu  par- 
islu's,  and  is  v ompMsc-d  T  TerKl?  and  arable  soil,  sn|)portin,ir  a  dense  p-'p- 
ulation.  The  fiaonce  drive  i^'  that  *  ''Around  the  Mountain,"  ji distance 
ofl>  M.  The  road  passes  out  h\  the  Hotel  Dieu  and  thronjih  the  suburb 
of  St.  Jean  M:iptiste  (whence  a  road  runs  K.  to  the  limestone-quarries  at 
Cote  St.  Mk'ltii).  At  MUt-Kiid  the  carriage  turns  to  the  1,  and  soon  passes 
the  avmue  wiiieli  leads  (to  tiio  I.)  to  the  Mount  Koyal  Cenictery.  The 
road  ascends  to  higher  grades,  and  beuutilul  views  open  on  the  N.  and  W., 
including  I'J  villages,  the  di-  sant  shores  of  the  Isle  of  Jesus,  and  the  bright 
waters  of  Lake  St.  Louis  and  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains.  On  a  clear 
(lay  the  spires  of  the  Catholic  C<illegc  of  St.  Therhe  are  seen,  several 
leagues  to  the  N.,  beyond  the  Riviere  aux  Chiens.  The  village  of  Cote 
(letf  Nei(/(H  (three  inns)  has  an  anti(pie  church,  and  is  occujjied  by  1,200 
iidnd)itanis.  It  was  first  settled  by  families  from  Cotd  des  Neiges  in 
France,  which  derived  its  name  from  a  legend  that  a  rairaculcais  cruci- 
f<M-m  fall  of  s!U)w  took  ])]ace  there  in  August,  marking  the  place  on  which 
a  pious  citi/en  afterwards  built  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges. 
From  this  village  the  uiier-mountain  road  leads  E.  to  Montreal.  On  the 
lower  slope  of  Mouni  U  »yal  a  platform  has  been  built  on  the  wall  of  the 
Seminary  ground',  from  which  a  beautiful  *view  is  obtained.  (The  usual 
charges  for  the  ride  around  the  mountain  are  *  LoO  for  2-3  jiersons,  in  a 
cab,  or  $2  for  4  persons;  for  a  twt)-horse carriage,  $i,  for  1-4  persons.) 

A  road  turns  to  tirC  r.  from  Cote'  des  Neiges  and  passes  around  the  bold 
highlands  S,  of  M.  urn  Ro\iil,  through  fair  rural  scenery.  Heyond  the 
luimlet  of  Cote  St  Luc  it  reaches  Cote  St.  Aiitinne^  the  seat  of  the  fine 
buiUhng  and  grounds  formerly  known  as  Monklands,  when  tlio  home  of 
Governor-denenil  L»»rd  Elgin.  It  is  now  called  Villa  Maria,  and  is  occu- 
pied by  the  black  lums  as  a  boarding-school.  There  are  26  sisters  and 
172  pu])ils,  most  of  whom  are  from  the  United  States.  Opposite  Villa 
Maria  is  the  Church  of  St  Luc.  The  short  rojul  from  this  point  to  the 
city  is  naid»!  interesting  by  beautiful  views  and  fair  villas,  and  for  4  M. 
after  passing  the  toll-gate  it  skirts  the  Seminary  gnmnds. 

The  Sault  au  RecoUet  is  7  M.  W.  of  Montreal,  on  the  Rivji-re  des 
Prairies,  and  is  frecpiently  visited  ior  the  sake  of  its  pieturescpie  rapids. 
Picnic  parties  occuiiy  the  forest-covered  Pne6lf^  Is'and,  whence  the  de- 
scent of  rafts  may  be  observed.  Tlu^  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is 
beautifully  sitmttcd  amid  pleasant  grounds  iu«ar  the  river.  Opposite  Sault 
nu  Recollot  is  the  Isle  Jesus,  w  Inch  is  nearly  2r>  M.  long,  and  contains 
the  villages  of  St.  Martin,  St.  Rose  de  Linui.  anti  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (near 
which  Is  the  Provincial  Reformatory  Prison). 

Hochelaga  is  ut  the  N.  K.  end  of  the  Montrcul  horse'cur  line. 


1    i 


LACHINE  RAPIDS. 


Route  76.       319 


cal,  whicb 
t(.  lU  par- 
dense  p"i'- 
ji  Vistnncc 

the  SUl)!!!"!) 

Kjunrries  nt 

s()(»n  \)nsf'es 

jtery.    'l'l»e 
K.  and  W-i 

a  the  bright 
On  a  clear 

(.en,  scvcrnl 

Huge  of  Cote 

ie.l  by  1,200 

Bs  Neigos  in 

ndons  cruci- 

nee  on  which 

i  des  Neipes. 

real.     On  the 

lie  wall  of  the 

).   (The  usual 
|,crsons,  in  a 

-  4  persons.) 
ound  the  bold 
Uoyond  the 

|:il  (.1'  the  fine 
■n  the  home  of 
.,  and  is  occu- 
•25  sisters  and 
[Opposite  Villa 
is  point  to  the 
L  and  for  4  M. 

Ibe  T^ivlere  iles 
|iives(pu'  rapiilj^' 
Uhonce  the  dc- 
v.ured  Heart  is 
Opposite  Sault 
hjr,  ai\J  contains 
U  do  I'aul  (near 

Mir  line.       .  ^ 


It  has  a  good  liarbor  on  the  St.  Liiwrence,  below  the  Rapid 
of  St.  Mnry.  There  are  severo!  fine  villi's  here,  and  the  ♦  Convent  of  the 
Sacred  Name  of  Jesuit  ud  A/ .rn  ,„  the  ^l^u^^  extenrive  monastic  institu- 
tion in  Canadf^.  Hochelaga  is  3  M.  ♦\on  the  Victoria  Bridge;  and  8-4 
M.  farther  E.  is  Longve  Point,  n<jar  whUAi  tlie  late  Sir  George  F^.  Cartier 
resided.  The  river-road  gives  vfe*  i  of"  Lonjmeuil,  BoucherviUe,  and 
Varennes,  on  the  S.  shore. 

Laohine  (three  liotels)  is  9  M  .-.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  is  a  favorite 
summer-resort  of  the  citizens.  The  riwir-road  is  vorv  picturesque;  and 
the  upper  road  runs  through  the  manufacturing  town  called  Tannery 
lyest,  which  has  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Visitors  usually  go  out  on  one 
road  and  return  by  the  other.  Lachine  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Louis, 
and  is  noted*  for  its  annual  regattas.  It  was  so  named  by  Champlain  in 
1613,  because  lie  believed  that  beyond  the  rapids  the  river  led  to  China 
{La  Chine).  In  1689  the  Iroquois  Indians  destroyed  the  French  town  here, 
with  all  its  inhabitants,  200  of  whom  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  Opposite 
Lachine  is  the  populous  village  of  Cauf/hnawofja,  inhabited  by  about  500 
of  the  »>:'derly  and  indolent  descendants  of  the  Iroquois  Indians,  who  are 
governed  by  a  council  of  seven  chiefs. 

The  *LachineK'»ptd8may  be  visited  by  taking  the  5  p.  m.  train  to  La- 
chine,  or  the  I.'IO  i*.  m.  train  to  St.  Anne's  (50  cents  for  the  round-trip  by 
Lachine;  80  cents  by  St.  Anne's),  where  a  f^teamer  is  in  waiting  by  which 
the  tourist  returns  tlinmgh  the  rapids  to  Montreal.  After  fukini;  a  pilot 
from  Caughnawa^a,  the  steamer  passi's  out. 

"  Suddenly  a  sceno  of  wild  uratNiea-  hu  .as  upon  *he  eye.  Waves  are  laHhcd  h.t<i 
Bpray  and  Into  brcakiMx  of  a  thouxuu;!  f.  niis  by  tlu;  auhnicirg«.'d  rocks  uhlcli  they 
are  dashed  against  in  th«(  licadlonx  inipctuo-ijty  of  t\w  rivrr.  WIdrlpools,  a  .stonm- 
la«lied  sea,  tlic  chasm  1h>Iow  Nf-srara,  al!  <  injrlo  their  sublimity  in  a  sliij^le  rapi.it 
Now  paHHing  with  lightning  ^ p<-  n'  wit.liiu  .„  liv.v  yanls  of  rocks,  which,  did  your  ^•.^- 
sel  hut  touch  them,  would  cdu"  ^  hoc  tu  .ui  utUT  wri'ck  Ijoforc  the  crash  could 
sound  upon  the  ear;  did  she  »  "•;»  div-.  -^o  in  the  least  frf»:n  tier  "ourse,  —  llT  her 
head  were  not  kept  stnught  v  .  .he  course  of  the  rapid,  —she  would  Im^  in.<tantly 
flubuierged  and  rollcl  over  an<>  o'^'-r.  Hcfore  us  is  an  absolute  (.rciipico  of  waff  r* ; 
on  every  side  of  it  ^  oakcr.^,  \\V<  dense  rtralaD'i:  -s,  arc  thrown  high  into  the  ah'. 
Ere  we  can  take  a  glance  at  ;  lie  ••  ;n'^.  £':a  boat  descend.^  tlie  v\,  11  of  waves  and  toam 
like  a  bird,  and  in  a  .second  afterward''  you  are  floating  on  the  calm,  unruffled  h(>.'«om 
of  '  below  til     lapids.' "' 

The  steauHT  then  pa.sse8  under  the  central  arch  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  (sn^i  pago 
310),  and  opens  an  imposing  punorundc  *vlew  of  the  city.  (Tickets  for  tl'.<'  round- 
trip  cost  5<'  c.  ;  and  the  tourist  gets  6a<"k  to  Montreal  about  9.8i)  a.  m.) 

The  Beloeil  Mountain  may  be  visited  in  a  day  by  taking  the  Gr- nd 
Trunk  Kailwny  to  St.  llilairc,  wlicncc  the  niountain  is  easily  ascended, 
passing  a  pretty  little  lake.  On  this  peak  (1,400  ft.  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence) the  Bi^^liop  of  Nancy  erected  an  oratory  sunnounted  by  a  htige  tin- 
covered  cross  which  was  visible  for  over  30  M.  The  cn;S8  was  blown  down, 
several  years  ago.  The  *view  from  Beltfcil  includes  a  radius  of  60  M.  ov.?r 
the  fertile  and  thickly  settled  plaijis  of  the  St.  L;i.vrencc  Vsuley,  ";vith  the 
blue  mou  ains  of  Vermont  far  away  in  the  S.  K.  fhe  Bi>ucht.viUe  Moun- 
tain m  reached  from  St.  Bruno,  a  station  on  the  Gran  ^  Trunk  Railway, 


% 


.  1 


320     Route.  7V. 


OTTAWA. 


The  Iroquois  flimse,  on  a  plateau  of  the  Bela'il  Mts.,  1,600  0  high,  and 
near  a  lake  3  M.  urountl,  accommodates  400  gnest<,  at  ^3  a  day,  S 10-16 
a  week.  It  is  2^  M.  from  St.  Hllaire  station  on  the  Grand-Trunk  lino  (25 
M.  from  Montreal).   Boating,  bathing,  billiards,  livery  stable,  fishing,  etc. 

St.  Anne  (du  Bout  de  tisle)  is  21  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  may  be 
reached  in  an  hour  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  It  is  a  village  of  1,000 
inhabitants,  with  two  inns,  and  has  an  ancient  church  which  is  much 
revered  by  the  Canadian  boatmen  and  voyageun.  Many  of  the  people  of 
Montreal  visit  this  place  during  the  summer.  The  village  is  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  railway,  between  Lake  St.  Louis  (of  the  St.  Lawrence)  and 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains  (of  the  Ottawa  River).  The  Ottawa  if 
here  crossed  by  a  fine  railway-bridge,  resting  on  16  stone  piers;  and  the 
famous  Rapids  of  St.  Anne  are  flanked  by  a  canal.  Here  Tom  Moore 
wrote  his  Canadian  Boat-Song,  beginning:  — 

**  Faintly  aa  tolls  the  evening  chime, 
Our  Toices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time. 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim 
We  '11  sing  at  St.  Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
Row,  brothers,  row  ;  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight 's  past. 

"  Uttawa's  tide  !  this  trembling  moon 
Shall  see  us  float  o'er  thy  surges  soon. 
Saint  of  this  green  isle  !  hear  our  prayers  ; 
0,  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  favoring  airs  ! 
Blow,  breeres,  blow  ;  the  stream  runs  fost, 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight 's  past." 

Stti&ziers  run  daily  up  the  Ottawa  River  to  Ottawa  ( Russell  Hotel),  the  capital 
of  Canada.  The  Canadian  **  Parliament  House  is  situated  on  a  lofty  bluff 
over  the  Ottawa  River,  and  is  the  tinest  specimen  of  Italian  Qothic  architecture  in 
America  or  the  world.  The  great  ♦  Victoria  Tower  in  the  centre  of  the  taqade  is  im- 
posing in  its  proportions  ,*  and  the  polygonal  structure  of  the  Dominion  Lthraryiain 
the  rear  of  the  buildings.  Th«  halls  of  the  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Commons  are 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  are  adorned  with  stained-glass  windows  and  marble  columns. 
In  the  Senate  is  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  and  near  the  vice-regal  throne  are  busts 
of  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales.  The  departmental  buildings  which  flank  the 
Farllament  House  are  stately  structures,  in  harmonious  architecture,  and  of  the 
same  kinds  of  stone.  The  Cathttdral  of  Notre  Dame  and  the  nunneries  of  the  lower 
town  are  interesting ;  also  the  new  churches  of  the  middle  town  (whi«'h,  like  the 
rest  of  the  city,  is  still  undergoing  a  formative  process).  The  *  *  Chaudl^re 
Falls  are  just  above  the  city,  where  the  broad  Ottawa  River  plunges  down  over 
long  and  ragged  ledges.  In  this  vicinity  are  immense  lumber-yards,  with  the  con- 
nected industries  which  support  the  French  Canadian.",  who  form  the  majority  of 
the  citlaens  here.  8.  of  the  city  are  the  pretty  Jiirieau  Fails.  Steamers  depart  fre- 
quently for  Montreal,  and  for  the  remote  forests  of  the  N . 


igh,  and 
SHO-16 

lino  (25 
ng,  etc. 

may  be 
)  of  1,000 
is  much 
people  of 
jome  dis- 
ence)  and 
Jttawa  ic 
;  and  the 
)in  Moore 


),  the  capital 
a  lofty  bluff 
rchitectuie  in 
fEtqade  is  im- 
i  Library  is  in 
Comnions  are 
rble  columns, 
rone  are  busts 
lich  ttanlc  the 
«,  and  of  the 
8  of  the  lower 
^hich,  like  the 

Cliaudlere 
ten  down  over 

with  the  con- 
ne  majority  of 
ers  depart  fre- 


Abattis,  P.  Q.  292. 
Advocate  Harbor  103,  80. 
Agulquac  River  54. 
Aiuslie  Qlen  167, 169. 
Albert  Bridge,  0.  B.  154. 
Albert  Mines,  N.  B.  72. 
Alberton,  P.  E  I.  179. 
Albion  Mines,  N.  S.  186. 
Aldouin  Rlvor,  60. 
Alemek  Bay,  N.  B  63. 
Alexander  Point  63. 
Alexis  Rtver  225 
Allagash  River.  Me.  68. 
Allandale,  N.  B.  52. 
Alright  Id.  184. 
Alston  Point,  N   B.  65. 
Amherst,  N.  8.  78,  74. 
Amherst  Id.  183. 
Ancienne  Lorette  281,  279. 
Andover,  N.  B.  54. 
Ange  Gardien,  P.  Q.  283. 
Annandale,  P.  E  I   182. 
Annapolis  Basin,  N.  8.  84. 
AnnapoliH  Royal  85. 
Annapolis  Valley  88. 
Anticosti  234. 
AntigoniHh,  N.  8.  138. 
Apohaqui,  N.  B.  71.  48. 
Apple  River,  N.  S.  80. 
Apsey  Cove,  N.  F.  210. 
Aquafort,  N.  F.  198. 
ArdoiseMt.jN.  S.  93. 
Argentenay,  P.  Q.  290. 
Argyle,  N.S.  116,126. 
Arichat,  C.  B.  146. 
Arisaig,  N.  S.  139. 
Aroostook  Valley,  Me.  65. 
Arthurette,  N.  B.  54. 
Aspotogon  Mt.,  N.  S.  127. 
Aspy  Buy,  C.  B.  160. 
Athol,  N.  B.  80. 
Atlantic  Cove,  C.  B.  1<50. 
Aulac,  N.  B.  74. 
Avalon,  N.  F.  198,  209. 
Avonport,'N.  H  91. 
Ayle.<*ford,  N.  S.  89. 
Aylesford  Lakes  90. 

BaccaUeu  Id. ,  N.  F.  201 ,  205. 
14* 


INDEX. 


Baccaro  Point,  N   S.  123. 
Baddeck,  C.  B.  162. 
liuddevk  River,  167. 
Bugotville,  P.  Q.  302. 
Baie  des  Roc  hers,  P.  Q.  295. 
BaieSt.  Paul,  P.  Q.  292. 
Baie  Verte,  N   S.  74. 
Ballard  Bank,  The  199 
Ballyhaly  Bog  N.  F.  195. 
Bangor,  Me.  39. 
BarachoiH,  N.  B.  59. 
Bareneed,  N.  F.  207. 
Barnaby  Id,  I'  Q.  250. 
Barra,  Strait  of  164. 
Barr'd  Ids  ,  N.  F.  210. 
Barrow,  N.  F.  214. 
Barrington,  N.  8.  124. 
Barton,  N.  S.  112. 
Baoin  ofMinas  101,  108. 
Basque  Harbor  183. 
Basque  Inland  251. 
Ba88  River  81. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65,  61 
Batlscan,  P   Q.  307. 
Batteau  Harbor  225. 
Battery  Point,  N.  B.  68. 
Battle  Id.,  Lab.  224,  200, 208. 
Bay,  Argyle,  N.  S.  116. 

Belleisle,  N.  B.  42. 

Bonavista,  N.  F.  203. 

Bonne,  Lab  219. 

Bradore,  Lab.  230. 

Bulls,  N.  F.  194,  197. 

Canada,  N   F.  221. 

Cardigan,  P.  K.  I.  175. 

Conception, N  F  195,206. 

De  Grave,  N.  F.  207. 

DuVin,N.B.  61. 

East,  C.  B.  147. 

Kstiuimaux,  Ijab  230. 

Eternity,  P  Q.  Ji03. 

Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 

Garla.  N.  F  215 

Hi  Ha,  P.  Q  301. 

Hairs,  N.  F.211. 

Hermitage,  N.  V  215. 

Hillsborough  174,  175. 

Ingornachoix  219. 

Kennebecasis  4(\ 


Bay,  Little,  N.  F.  215. 

Mahone,  N.  8.  118, 127. 

Miraiiiichi,  N.  B.  61. 

Oak,  N.  B.  34. 

ofChaleur64,  240. 

of  Denpair  215. 

of  Fair  and  False  203. 

of  Fundy31,83. 

of  Islands  218. 

of  Notre  Dame,  N.  F.  210. 

of  St.  John  219. 

Placentia,  N.  F.  212. 

Richmond,  P.  E.  I.  178. 

Roberts,  N.  F,  'M. 

St.  Anne's,  v.  i>.  168 

St  George's.  N.  F.  217. 

St.  .John's.  P.  Q  304. 

St.  Margaret's  \2^^,  118. 

St.  Mary's  112,  213. 

Sandwich,  Lab.  225. 

Trinity.  N.  F.  208,  201. 

Verd,  N.  F.  201,  208. 

White,  N.  F  221. 
Beach,  The  206. 
Bear  Cove  93 
Bear  Point  143. 
Bear  River  85. 
Beau  hair's  Id.,  N.  B.  68. 
jBeaulieu,  P.  Q  289. 
^Beaumont,  P.  Q  254. 
I  Beau  port,  P.  Q.  276. 
Beaver  Bank,  N   S.  93 
I  Beaver  Harbor,  C.  B.  1'^. 
jBeaver  Harbor,  N.  B.  31. 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  S.  132. 
Beaver  River  114. 
Becancour,  P.  Q.  307. 
Bedeque  Bay,  P   E   I.  174 
Bedford  Biisin,  N.S   100. 
BellcchasHe  Id.  254. 
Belledune,  N.  B  66. 
Belle  Isle  220,  206. 
Belleisle  Bay,  N.  B.  42. 
Bell  Isle,  N   F.  221. 
BelleonMii,  N   F.  214. 
Belliveau  Cove,  N.  S.  112 
Belliveau  Village  7'.i. 
Bela'il  Mt.,  P  Q.  319. 
Benacailie  Point  165. 

U 


11 
i 


322 


INDEX. 


I 

I 


Ben  more  280. 
BerHiinifl  Kivir  233. 
Berthier  en  has  254. 
Berthier  en  haul  ;i08. 
Berwick,  N.  H.  9() 
Bic  I(l.,l»,  U  201 
m%  Lorn  11,  V.W    154. 
BJ)?  Tiuicook  Id.  128. 
Bi<iuettt?,  I>.  Q.  251. 
Birch  Point  «H. 
BiiTlitown.N   S.  121. 
Bird  Inland  Cove  2U2. 
Bird  If«U'H  184. 
Bird  Rock  161. 
Bliwk  Bay  228. 
Black  Hrook  01. 
Bluckiiead  1!J6. 
Blackhead  Cove  210. 
Black  Point,  N.  8.  122. 
Black  lUver,  N.  F.  212. 
Black  River,  P.  Q.  295. 
Blancherotte,  C.  B.  147. 
Blanc  Sablon,  Lab  229. 
Blandford,  N.  B.  27. 
Blind  liuke,  N   8   126. 
BlisHld  ,N.  B.  31. 
Bli-shville,  N.  B  49. 
BI(H-khou!'e  Mines  153. 
Bloinidon,Cape  102,  103. 
Bloody  Bay,  N.  F.  203 
Bloody  Brid{;;e  79 
Bloody  Brook,  N.  S.  89. 
Blow-uie-Down  Head  207. 
Blue  Mt.s.,N.  H.  SK),  115. 
Blue  Pinion,  N.  V  214. 
BIueRoi'krt,  N.S.  lis. 
Boar's  Back,  N.  S.  82. 
Boar'8  Head,  N.  B.  40. 
Boiestown,  N.  B.  47,62. 
Boisdale  1M2. 
Bonami  Point  67. 
Bonaparte  \.i\V  •  36 
Bonaventure  Id.  243. 
Bona vi.-fa  Bay,  N    K.  203. 
Bonlionnne,  Le  307. 
Bornie  Hay  219. 
Bonne  E>!])erance  Bay  230. 
Bonnv.  Uib  230 
Bon  Portape  Id  124. 
Bonshaw,  P.  K.  I    174. 
Bothwell,  P.  E   I.  1H2. 
Boucherville,  IV  Q  309. 
Boularderie,  C    B.  161. 
Bout  del' l,«le  308 
Bradford's  Cove  29. 
Bradore  Bay,  Lai)  230. 
Brae,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
Bral'H,N.  F  221 
Itranch,  N.  F  212. 
Bnmdies,  The  2()1 
Brandy  Pots  252,  296. 
Bras  d'Or,  The  161. 
Breton,  Cape  149, 154. 
Bridgeport,  C.  B.  162. 


BridKetown,  N.  8.  88. 
Brid^eton,!*.  E.  I.  182. 
Bridjfewater  128,  119. 
Brij;;r'8  Corner  49.  , 

Brigliton,N   S.  112. 
BriguH,  N.  F.  207. 
Bristol,  N.  B.  51. 
Broad  Cove,  N    B,  29. 
Bread  Cove,  N.  F  2()3. 
BrcKidCove,  N.  8   120. 
Broad  t.'ove  Int«rvalc  169. 
Brookfleld,  N.  8.  82,  130. 
Brooklyn,  N.  8.  93. 
Brookvale,  \.  B.  48. 
Bnnle  Harbor  197. 
Bruckern  Hill  26. 
Brule  Harbor  81. 
Brunet  Id  214. 
Bryant's  (Jove  207 
BuVtouche,N.  B  59. 
Bull  Ann,  N.  F.  209. 
Bull  Moose  Hill  41. 
Burgeo,  N.  F.  215. 
Burj^oyne's  Ferry  51. 
Burin.  N.  F.  214,  212. 
Burliiititou,  N    S  93. 
Burnt  (Church  (52,03. 
Burnt  Head  207. 
Burnt  Kidge  202. 
Burton,  N.  B  43. 
Burying  Plate  211. 
Buttelr  Pots,  The  199. 

Cacnuna,  P.  Q. 296,  252. 
Calais,  Me.  35 
jCalcdonia  Comer  130. 
Callicre,  P.  Q  295. 
ICalvaire,  Miq.  185 
Calvaire,  P.  Q  306. 
i Cambridge,  N.  B  42 
iCanibriol,  N.  F.  214 
(-ampholl  River  55. 
Campbelltmi,  N.  B.  68. 
Caniille,  Mt.  249 
jCampobello  Id.  26. 
iCanajin  River  72. 
Canada  Bay  221. 
Canada  Creek  90. 
Canning,  N.  B.  43. 
(banning,  N.  8.  91. 
Canso  142. 
Canterbury  37,  52. 
Cap  ,i  TAigle  294. 

an  Corb«!an  21*2. 

de  la  Magdelaine  307. 

de  Meule  184. 

R(»nge  281 . 

St.  Ignace253. 
Cape  Alright  184. 

Anguille,  N.  F.  217. 

Ballard,  N    F.  213. 

Bauld,  N.  F.220. 

Bear  175,  181. 

BlomidoD,  91, 102, 103. 


Cape  Bluff,  Lab.  226. 
Breton,  149,  154 
Broyle,  N.  F.  197. 
Canso,  N.  8  134, 142. 
Cha|»eau  Rouge  214,  139. 
Chatte,  P.  Q.  249. 
Chignecto,  N.  S.  104. 
Cove,  N.  8.  114 
Cove,  P.  Q.  241. 
Colouibier,  P   Q.  233. 
Corneille,  294. 
Dauphin  168,  161. 
Desolation  226. 
Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Diable,  P.  Q  252a: 
d'Or,  N.  8.  103. 
East,  P  Q.  301. 
Egniont,  P.  E.  1.174,179 
English,  N.  F.  213. 
Enrag.',  N.  B   72. 
Eternity,  P.  Q.  303. 
Fogo,N.F.  204,210. 
Fourchu,  N.  8.  125. 
Frwls,  N.  F.  203,  213. 
Ca«p.-,  P.  Q  246. 
(Jeoi-ge,  P.  Q.  304. 
(}oose  294. 
(J rand  Bank  214. 
Gribaune  291. 
Jourimain  59,  73. 
Kildare  180. 
Labaie  292. 
Lahave,  N.  8.  120. 
La  Ilune  216. 
Largent  202. 
Mabou,  C.  B   168. 
Magd(!laine  248. 
Mai  I  lard  292. 
Marangouin  73. 
Morien,  C.  B.  153. 
N:-gr,>,  N.  S.  122. 
Norman^.  F  220. 
North,  C.  B.  160. 
Perry,  C  B  153. 
Pine,  N.  F.  213. 
Porcupine,  N.  8. 144. 
Rjice,  N.  F  199,  189. 
Rav,N.  F.  217,216. 
Rhuniore,  (\  B.  147. 
Itidge,  N.  F.  203. 
lloscwav,N.  8.  121. 
Hosier  247,  246. 
Rouge  291. 
8able,  N.  8.  123. 
St.  Anne  249 
St  Fnuicis201,225,  301 
8t.  (Jeorge  218 
8t.  Lawrence  160, 170. 
St.  Michael  225. 
8t.  Nicholas  2.'«. 
Sanibro  118,  93. 
Smoky,  C.  B.  159. 
Spear,  N.  y.  189,196. 
Spencer  104,  83. 


Ce 
C 


Ch 

Ch.-i 

Ch; 

Ch; 

CJi.i 

Ch- 

Ch: 

Ch: 

Chf 
Cha 
CIh 
Clu 

CilC, 

diet 

Che 

Che; 

VWu 

Cl.igl 

Chig 

Chii 

Chip 


INDEX. 


323 


!5. 


,  142. 
214, 139. 

.104. 


t.233. 
61. 

241. 

52^5 

\.  174,179 
213. 
72. 
.  303. 
►4,  210. 
^.  126. 
m,  213. 
246. 
304. 

214. 

>',  73. 

i.l20. 


168. 
1248. 

V  ir)3. 

122. 
F  220. 
.  100. 

ir)3. 

213. 

N.  S.144. 

199, 189. 

17,210. 

.  R.  147. 

.  203. 

.  S.  121. 

246. 

123. 

201,225,301 

"18 

00  160, 170. 

Ii  22r). 

93. 
B.  159.    ^ 
'M89,196. 

,83. 


Cape  Split,  N  S.  104. 
Touriiieiit«287,253. 
Touriiit'iitiiH'  59,  73, 174 
Tmvern'  174. 
Trinity,  1*.  (I  SUM. 
Trvon,  I*.  K.  I    178. 
VKtoila,  I'.  Q.  i]04. 

Whittlo,  Lab.  230. 

Wolfo  1V9. 
Capiiii  Cove  198. 
CaiiKiiiutto  ♦;»),  62. 
Carbonoar,  N.  F.  208. 
Cardit,'an,  N.  B.  50 
Car.li«an,  l>.  E.  1.  181. 
Cariltaooii  145. 
Caribou  Id   175,  224. 
Caribou  Plains  SO. 
Caribou  Point  233. 
Carltton,  N    B.  24. 
Carl«ton,  I».  Q.  239. 
CarrouKcl  Id.  23;i 
Casfai)ediac  Bay  240. 
Casfuuipec  180. 
Castle  Id.,  Lab.  227. 
Catalina,  N.  F.  2Ul. 
(\italogue.  C.  B.  154. 
(  atJiraoouv  280. 
Cat  Cove  221. 
Caughnawaga  319. 
Cavendish,  F.  E.  I.  178. 
Cavorne  do  Bon  temps  290. 
Cawee  Ids.  233. 
Central  Falmouth  91. 
Centre  Hill  209. 
Chaleur,  Bay  of,  64,240. 
Chanioook  Mt.  33. 
Champlain,  V.  Q.  307. 
Chance  Harbor  31. 
Change  Ids.  205,  210. 
Channel,  N.  F  216 
Chapel  Id  ,C.  B.  147. 
Charlesbourg,  V  Q.  279. 
Charlottetown,P.  E.  1.176. 
Ch.iteau  Bay,  Ij»b.  227. 
Chriteau  Beilevue  287. 
Ch-lteau  Bigot  280. 
Chateau  lUoher  284. 
Chatham,  N.  B.  r>l,  60. 
Chaudiere  Falls  282. 
Chebuoto  Head  93. 
ChedabiK  to  May  14.1. 
Che.sfer.N.  S.  127,90. 
Chetioamp,  C   B.  170. 
(nietioanip,  N.  .'<.  114 
Che'/,w'to()ok,N.  S.  131. 
(Miiooutinii.  P.  Q.  300. 
(Miign«'oto,  Cape,  104. 
Chigneoto  Ptiiinsula  79. 
(niimney  Tickle  227. 
Ciiiputnetioook  Lakes, N.  B 

38,  46. 
Chivirie  PS,  102, 106. 
Chouse  Brook  221. 


Ciboux  Mb.  161. 
Clairvaux    P.  Q.  292. 
Clan',  N.  S.  113. 
Clarendon,  N.  B.  3^. 
rUnieiit.-^port,  N.  ?*.  86. 
Clementsvaie  Kj. 
t'lifton,  N.  B.  66,  71. 
(  lode  Sound  203. 
Cloridornie  248. 
Ch.u.ls,  The,  2'.il. 
Clyde  River,  N.  S.  124. 
Coa(0(hf>  Kiver  '^31 
('obe«iuid  .Mt,-.,  N.  S.  80. 
Cooagne,  N.  B.  m. 
Colebrooke,  N.  B.  iiTi. 
Cole's  Id.  N.  B.  47. 
Colinet,  N.  F.  213. 
CoIunile2l5 
Conception  Bnv  195,206. 
Concho,  N    F.  221. 
Contnoft'iir,  P.  Q.  308. 
Corbin,  N.  F  214 
Cornw.ill.s  Valley,  N.  S. 

103,  107. 
Corny  Beach  243. 
Cote' do  Bean prr,  283. 

des  Neiges  318. 

St.  Antoine  318. 

St  Luc  318. 

St.  Michel  318. 
Cotters  Id.  203. 
Coudres,  Isle  aux  £93. 
Country  Harbor  1.3^}. 
Covehead,  P  E   I.  181. 
Cow  Bay  101,150,153. 
Cox's  Point  49. 
Crabb's  Brook  217. 
Oane  Id  ,  P.  Q.  253 
Crapaud,  P.  E.  1.  174. 
Creignish  168. 
Cro(iue  N    F.  221. 
Cross  Id.,N.  S.  118. 
Cunilterland  Bav  49. 
Cumberland  Ha'rbor  230 
Cupid.s,  N.  F.  207. 

Dalhousie,  N.  B.  67. 
iDalibaire,  P.  Q.  249 
|l>arkCove,30. 
[Dartmouth,  N.  S.  101. 
il)aupliinev's  Cove  126. 
Davis  Strait  226. 
Dead  Ids.  216,  225. 
iDeadman's  I.«Ie  184. 
JDebec  .1  unction  37. 
Debert  80,  105. 
iDeep  Cove  127. 
iDeerfield,  X   S   115. 
'Deer  Harbor  109. 
Doer  Isle,  N.  B.  25. 
Doer  l.ake  37. 
Deer  I'oud  219. 
;Domoiselle  Hill  183. 
IDenys  River,  C.  B.  165. 


De  Sable  174. 
Descente  des  Femtnes  302. 
Di'schauibHult  31)6. 
DEsoous.'f,  C.  B.  146. 
Despair,  Ray  of.  215. 
Despair,  Cape,  241. 
Devil  Id.  93. 
jDovirs  Ba.k,N.  B.  41. 
;D«vir.-i  (ioose-Pasture  90. 
iDovils  Head  34. 
Diablo  Bav  228. 
Digbv,  N.*S   84. 
Digbv  Ne<k  116. 
JDipjier  Harbor  31. 
iDistre.'^s  Cove  212. 
Dodding  Head  214. 
iDollannan  Bank  202. 
iDOr,  C«|M>,  N   S.  103. 
iDorehestor,  N.  B  73. 
JDoucofs  Id   N    R.34. 
iDouglas  Harbor  49. 
'Doiiglastown,  N.  B.  62. 
90,  D<.iigla.».to\vn,  P.  Q.  244 
I  Douglas  Valley  38. 
Dumfries,  N    B.  52. 
Dundas,  N.  B  59. 
Dundas,  P    E.  1.  182. 
,Dunk  River  174. 


Eiirltown,  N   S.  136. 
East  Bay  147,  B'.5,  214. 
!  Eastern  Pa.ssage  93. 
iKist  Point  182. 
Ea.-tjtort.  Me.  26. 
East  River  126,  225. 
Ebnulon^  iits,  I.es,  i.94. 
Echo  Lake  131. 
E(  onomv  Point  105,  80. 
Ecurouiis.  Los.  306. 
Eddv  Point  143. 
Edmnndston,  N.  B.  57. 
iE(b)obokuk,  C   B   U7. 
lEol  Brook  30. 
I  Egg  Ids.,  l,ab.  233. 
lEkum  Stkum.  N.  S.  132. 
Ellorsboiise,  N.  S.  93. 
Elliot  River  174. 
Elms.lale,  N.  S  82. 
El  V.Man  Fields,  N.  S.  79. 
EiIriold,N.  S.  82. 
English  Harbor  201. 
English  Harbor  West  214. 
English  P<.int  233. 
Engli.-^hfown,  C.  B   158. 
Enniskillen,  N.  B.  38. 
Entry  Id.  184 
JE-casoni,  C.  B.  148. 
jEscuminao  I'oint  61. 
lE'^quimaux  Bay  230,  244. 
i Eternity  Bay  3('3. 
lExploits  Id.  205,210. 
Exploits,  River  of  210. 
I  Factory  Dale,  N   S.  89. 
Fairvil'le,  N.  B.  37. 


324 


INDEX. 


i 


Fairy  Luke,  N.  S.  130. 
Falkluiul,  N.  S  9<),  03. 
FalU,  Chaudlen;  282,  320. 

Chicoutinti,  l>.  Q.  300. 

OrHn(ir)6,(»). 

Grand,  N.  F. 210. 

Grande-Mere  307. 

Lorette,  1».  Q.  278. 

Magaguadavic  32. 

Munitmisin  232. 

Montniorenci  277. 

Nictau,  N.  S  89. 

North  River  106. 

Pabinuau,  N   U.  G6. 

Pokiok,  N.  B  62. 

Pollett  72. 

Rideau,  Ont.  820 

Riviere  du  Loup  295. 

Riviere  du  Sud  263. 

St.  Anne,  l».  Q.  28'>. 

Sault  A  la  Puce  284. 

Hhawanegan  307 

SiHHiboo,  N.  S.  112. 
Falmouth,  N.  S.  91 
Farinlnnton,  N.  S.  89. 
Father  Point,  I*.  Q.  260. 
Ferguson 'f  Cove  101. 
Feruieuse,  N.  F.  198. 
Fern  LcdKC8  24. 
Ferry  land,  N.  F.  198. 
Fi.sh  Head  30. 
Five  Ida  ,  N.  S.  106,  80. 
Flugg'H  Cove  29. 
Fleurant  Point  07. 
Flint  Id.,  C.  B.  150,153. 
Florenceville,  N.  B.  53. 
Flower  Cove  219. 
Fogo,  N.  F.  204. 
Folly  Pass,  N.  S.  80. 
Forks,  The  48,  64. 
Fort  Beaubaasin  74,  78. 
Fort  Beausijour  74,  78. 
Fort  Cumberland  74,  78. 
Forteau,  Lab.  228 
Fort  Fairfield,  Me.  54. 
Fort  Ingalls,  N.  B.  68. 
Fort  Jaiiuea  Cartier  306. 
Fort  Kent,  Me.  58 
Fort  Lawrence  74,  78. 
FortMeduotic.N.  B  62,48 
Fort  NaMcopie,  Lab.  226. 
Fort  Norwe.Ht,  Lab.  226. 
Fortune,  N.  F  214. 
Foster's  (.Jove  64. 
Fourchette,  N.  F.  221. 
Fourchu,  C.  B   147. 
Fox  Harbor,  N.  S.  103,81. 
Fox  llirbor,  Ub.  224. 
Fox  River  248. 
Fran»l)oi8e,  C.  B    147. 
FnuM>r'«  Head  lf»4. 
Fredericton,  N.  B.  44. 
Fredericton  .luiic  38. 
French  Cross,  N.  S.  89. 


French  Fort  Ciwk  180. 
j  French  Uke  48. 
;  Krenchuian's  Cove  214. 
French  River  l'«. 
iFrench  Shore,  The  216. 
French  Viilag«;  151. 
Frenchvllle,  .Me  57 
Freshwater  Bay  203 
Friar's  Fiue  26. 
Frnzi'ii  Ocean  130. 
Funk  Id.,  N.  F.  204. 

Oabarus  Bay  154,  149. 
Oigctown,  N.  B.  42,48. 
Galrloch.N.  8.  136. 
Gulantry  Head  185. 
Gumbo  Ponds  203. 
Gander  Bay  210. 
Gannet  Rock.  N.  B  29. 
G.innet  Rock  184. 
Garia  Buy  215 
Garnish  ,'N.  F.  214. 
Gasp-,  I'.  Q.  244 
(iaspere^iux  Ijake  90. 
( 1.1  v's  River,  N  S  82. 
(Schtilly,  P   Q.  307. 
George  Id.  179. 
George's  Td.,N.  S.  98. 
Georgetown,P.E.I.181,176. 
Gib.«on,  N.  B.  49. 
Gilbert's  Cove  112. 
(Jhce  Bay  153, 150. 
Glengarry,  N.  S.  136. 
Goat  Id.,  N.  8.86. 
Godbout,  Lab.  233. 
Goldenville,  N.  8.  133. 
Gold  River  128. 
Gondola  Point  71. 
Gooseberry  Isles,  203. 
Goose  Id.  263. 
GoufTre,  Le  293. 
Gowrie  Mines  163. 
Grand  Anse,  C.  B.  146. 
Grand  Anse,  N.  B.  <«. 
Grand  Banks  The  199. 
Grand  Bay  40. 
Grand  Digue  146. 
Grande  Bale  302. 
Grande-Mere  Falls  307. 
Grand  Falls,  I^ab.  226. 
Grand  Falls,  N.  B.  65. 
Grand  Greve,  P.  Q.  244. 
Grand  Harbor  29. 
Grand  I^ake  36,  48. 
Grand  Lake  Stream  35. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grand  Narrows  164. 
Grand  Pond  218,  211. 
(Jrand  I're  107,91,  101. 
Grand  Uiver,  ('.  B  147. 
Grand  Kivcr,  N.  B.  56. 
Grand  River  241. 
(Jraml-Rivcr  Like  147. 
Grand  Rusticu  178. 


Grandy*fl  Brook,  216. 
Grant  Isle,  Me.  57. 
Granville,  N.  8.  86. 
<irtat  Bartibog  61. 
Great  Boule  233 
Gnat  Briis  dOr  161, 164. 
Gnvit  Codroy  217. 
Gn>ut  ILi  Ha  Uke  302. 
Gn'at  Harbor  Deep  221. 
Gnat  Meccatina  230. 
Great  Miquelon  186. 
Gn-at  I'abos  241, 
Great  I'ond  248. 
Great  I'uhnico  Lake  124. 
Gn-at  St.  Fiawrence  214. 
Great  Shemogue  69. 
Great  Village  81.  v 

Green  Bay  211. 
Greenfield  130. 
Gnen  Harbor  209. 
Green  Ids   124,  214,  252. 
Greenly  Id.  229. 
Gnen  River  57. 
Greenspond,  N.  F.  203. 
Onenville  80. 
Greenwich  Hill  41. 
Grenville  Harbor  178. 
Grimn's  Cov(  248. 
Griguet,  N.  F.  221. 
Grimross,  N.  B.  42. 
Grindstone  Id.  183. 
Grondines,  P.  Q.  306. 
Grosse  Isle  264. 
Gro.sses  Co(iues  113. 
Gull  Rock  121. 
(hit  of  Canso  142. 
Guysborough  133. 

Habitants  Bay  143. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  P.  Q.  301. 
llalilax,  N.  S   93. 

Admiralty  House  97. 

Cathedral  98. 

Citjidel  m. 

D.ilhousi.!  Coll.  98. 

Gov't  IIou.««e  98. 

Harbor  93. 

Hortic.  Gardens  98. 

Mu.«eum  9'j 

Parliament  Building  95. 

Provincial  Building  95. 

Queen's  Dockyard  97. 

Y.  M.  C   A.  96. 
Halifax,  P.  K.  I   179. 
Hull's  Bay  211,218 
Hammond's  Plains  100. 
Hampton,  N.  B.  71. 
Hampton,  N.  8.89. 
Hantsport.  N.  S  91,101. 
Harbor  Briton  214. 
Harbor  Bullet  212. 
Harbor  (Jnice.  N.  F.  207. 
Harborville.  N.  S.  90. 
Hare  Bay,  N.  F.  221. 


INDEX. 


325 


15. 

8. 

61, 164. 

e302. 

i.p221. 

230. 

«kP  124. 
ire  214. 
I  50. 


09.  0 

214,262. 


41.^ 
lor  178. 
i48. 
221. 
(.42. 
,  183. 
a.  806. 

i. 

8  113. 

142. 
133. 

irl43. 
'  U.  301. 

{Y.i. 

0U8C  97. 


!on.  98. 
o  98. 

■dens  98. 

nuUdliiK  95. 
Building  95. 
K-kyard  97. 
■^96. 

I  179. 

1,218 

•liiins  100. 

U.  71. 

8.  89.       ^ 

.  S  91, 101. 

in  214. 

t  212. 

I..  N   F.  207. 

N.8.  90. 

.  V.  221. 


HftreId.,P.  Q.252. 

Haro'B  Ears  198. 
llaru'8.Uead  Ilillfl  218. 
Harmony,  P.  E.  1.  182. 
Harvey,  N.  B.  38. 
Harvey  Corner  72. 
Haulover  iHthnius  146. 
Havelock,  N.  8.  8t». 
Head  of  Amherst  78. 
Heart  Ridge,  N.  F.  210. 
Heart's  Content  208. 
Heart'H  DeliKht  209. 
Heart's  De>*li-e  209. 
Heart's  Ease,  N.  F.  209. 
Hel)ertville,  P.  Q.  300. 
Hebron,  I^ab.  226. 
Heights  of  Uud226. 
Hell  Hill  197 
Hermitage  Bay  215. 
Herring  Cove,  N.S.  93. 
High  Beacon  227. 
Highland  Park  23. 
Highland  Village  81. 
High  Point  301. 
Hillsborough,  N.  B.  72. 
Hillsborougli  Bay  174 
Hillsborough  River  180. 
Hillsburn  86. 
H<Hhelaga,  P.  Q.  318. 
Hodge- Water  River  213. 
Holland  Bay,  180. 
Holyrooti,  N.  F.  199. 
Holyrood  Pond  213. 
Hooping  Harbor  221. 
Hoi»e,  P.  Q.  241. 
Hope  All,  NF.  209. 
Hopedalc,  Ub.  226. 
Hop«'well  136. 
Hopewell  Cape  7i 
Horton  Landing  91. 
Houlton,  Me.  37,  61. 
Howe's  Lake  23. 
Hudson's  Strait  226. 
number  River  219. 
Hunter  River  177, 178 

Indian  Bay  107,  203. 
Indian  Beach  30. 
Indian  Gardens  130. 
Indian  Id.,  I.nb  225. 
Indian  Ids.  210. 
Indian  IiOn'tto278. 
Indian  Tickle  226. 
Indian  town,  N.  B.  47. 
Indian  Village  51. 
Ingoniah.C.B.  159. 
Intervale  133 
lonclay  Hill  197. 
Irish  Cove,  C.  B.  147. 
Ironbound  Cove,  N.  B  49. 
Ironbound  Id.,  N   S.  119. 
Island,  Alright  184. 

Amherst  183. 

Anticosti  234. 


Mand,BaocAlieu,N.F.201. 
Barnabv,  P.  Q.  250. 
Beaubair's  63. 
Be  I  lee  basse  254. 
BIc,  P.  Q  260. 
Blackbill  227. 
Bona  venture  243. 
Bon  l*ort>ige  124. 
Boughton  176. 
Boularderie  161. 
Brandy  Pots  252. 
Brier  il7. 
Brunet  214. 
Bryon  184. 
Cauipobello  26. 
Ca|  e  Breton  141. 
Cap*'  Sable  123. 
Caribou  176,224. 
Carrousel  23.'J. 
Castle,  I  Jib.  227. 
Catoii's  41 
Cawee  233. 
Chapel  147. 
(Mieticamp  170. 
Cheyne29. 
Christmas  164. 
Cobbler's  203. 
Coffin  184. 
Cole's  47. 
Cottel's  203. 
Crane,  P.  Q.  263. 
Cross,  N   S.  118. 
Dead,  N.  F.  k26. 
Deer  203. 
Devil,  N.  S.  93. 
Egg,  I^ib.  233. 
Entry  184. 

Esquimaux,  Lab  231. 
Exploits,  N.  F.  205,210. 
Fair,  N.  F.  203. 
Fishllake  227. 
Fly  226. 

Fogo,  NF.  204,210. 
Foster's,  N.  B.  41. 
Fox.  N   B  61. 
Funk,  N.  F.  203. 
George  179. 
George's,  N.  S.  98. 
Goat,  N.S.  85 
Goose,  V.  Q  263. 
Governor's  175. 
Grand  Dune  61. 
Gmnd  Wannn  28. 
Grassy,  N.  B.  41. 
Great" Caribou  224. 
Green  124,  201.  220,252. 
Grimross,  N.  B  43. 
Grindstone  72,  183. 
Grosse  184. 
Hare,  P.  Q.  262. 
Henry  169. 
Heron  67. 
Horse  221. 
Huntington  225. 


Island,  Indian  225. 
Ireland,  N.  F.  215. 
Ironbound  119. 
•laques  Cartier  220. 
Kaniouraska  252. 
Large  231. 

U'nnox,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
Little  Miquelon  186. 
Little  Bay  211. 
liocke's,  N   S.  121. 
Ix)ng42,l(il, 107, 117,212. 
Iy)w«>r  Musquash  42. 
McNab's,  N.  8.  101,93. 
Madame,  P  Q  254. 
Manger's  43. 
Melville  101. 
Menishcen  212. 
Middle  43 
Micjuelon  1S6. 
Miscou  (J4. 
McKwe  26. 
Nantucket  29. 
Negro  122. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  World  205. 
of  Ponds  225. 
Panmure,  P.  E.  1.  175. 
Park,  P    E.  I.  179. 
Partridge,  N.  B.  15. 
Partridge,  N.S.  102, 103 
Penguin  203. 
Pictou,  N.  8.  175. 
Pilgrims  262. 
Pine  her 's  203. 
Pinnacle  106. 
Pock.-uedie63. 
Pool's  203. 
PortJige  61. 
Priests'  318. 
Prince  Edward  172. 
Quarry  231. 
Quirpon  220. 
Ram  121. 

Random,  N   F.  209. 
R<aux,  P.  Q.  264. 
Red  212,  218,  262. 
Sable  134. 
Saddle  228. 
Sagona  214. 
St.  Barbe221. 
St.  Paul's  100. 
St.  Pierre  185. 
Sandoua  46. 
Seal,  N.  8.  124. 
Sea-Wolf  169. 
Sheldrake  61. 
Shippigan  63. 
Smith'.'*  169. 
Spencer's  103, 104, 100 
Spotted,  N.  F.  225. 
Square,  Lab.  226. 
Stone  Pillar  263. 
Sugar  60.  61. 
Venison  225. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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326 


INDEX. 


laland,  Vin,  N.  B  61 

White  Head  29. 

White  Horse  31. 

Wolf  184. 

Wood  IMllar  253. 
IfllandH,  Battle  224. 

Burnt  215. 

Camp  227. 

Ciboiix  161. 

Dead  215. 

Five  105. 

Little  St.  Modeste  228. 

Magdalen  183. 

Mingan  231. 

Mutton  124. 

Penguin  203. 

Jlagged  212. 

Kaniea  215. 

Ram's.  N.  F.  212. 

Red  147. 

Seal  225. 

Seven,  Lab.  232. 

Tancook, N.  S. 128. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  125. 
Isle  aux  Ohiens  185. 

aux  Ooudres  293. 

Bell.N.  F.  221. 

Belle  206,  220.        V 

Deadnian's  184. 

Deer,  N.  B.  25. 

Qroais  221. 

Haute  104. 

Jesus  318. 

Madame  145. 

of  Orleans  288. 

St  Louis  304. 

St.  Therese  308. 

Verte,  P  Q.  262. 
Isles,  Bird  184. 

Burgeo  215 

de  la  Demoiselle  230. 

Gooseberry  203. 

Passe  IMerre  305. 

Peterel  227. 

Twillingate  205. 

Wailham,  N.  F.  203. 

West,  N.  B.25,31. 

.Tackson's  .\rm  221. 
•Tacksonville,  N.  S  90. 
•Taqucs  ('artier  306. 
.lebogue  Point  125 
Jedlore,  N.  S.  l.TJ. 
.lemseg,  N.  B.  42,48. 
.lersevnian  Td   145. 
.Jesus',  l.^lo  318. 
.Icunt'-Lon'tte  278. 
.loe  Batt" s  Arm  210. 
.)ogj;iiis  Shore  SO. 
.lolicaMir,  N.  B.  73. 
.loliette,  P.  (l 
Jonquirre  300. 
.Tu(li(iue,  C.  B.  168. 
Julianshaab,  Gr.  226. 


Kamouraska,  P.  Q.  252. 
Keels,  N.  F.  203. 
Kegashka  Bav  231. 
; Kempt  Head  162. 
Kempt,  N   S.  115. 
'Kempt  Lake,  V.  S.  90. 
Kennebecasis  iiny  40,  22. 
jKenogami,  P.  Q.  300. 
Kensington  178. 
Kentville,  N.  S.  90. 
Keswick  Valley  50. 
Keyhole,  N.  iV.  49. 
Kingselear,  N.  B.  51. 
King's  Cove  203. 
Kingston,  N.  B.  42. 
Kingston,  N.  S.  89. 
Kouchibouguac  Bay  61. 

U  Bonne  St.  Anne  285. 
Fiabrador  223. 
Lac  i  la  Belle  Truite  302. 
Lachine,  P  Q.  320. 
La  Fleur  de  Lis  221. 
Lahave  Uiver 128. 
Lake  Ain.«lie  167,  l'i9. 

Bathurst211. 

Bear  38. 

Bean  port  279. 

Belfry  154. 

Ben  Lomond  23. 

Blind  12 ). 

(Catalogue,  C.  B.  154. 

Cellar,  N.  S.  115. 

Chamberlain,  Me.  58. 

Cliesunoook  58. 

Cleveland  57. 

Cmnberry  38. 

Croaker's  211. 

Echo,  N.  S.  131. 

Fairy,  N  S.  1.3). 

French,  N.  B.  48. 

Gabarus,  C.  B   154. 

Gaspereaux  W. 

George  51,90,  116. 

(Jeorge  IV.  211 

Grand  48,  36,  82. 

Gravel  295. 

Great  Ha  Ha  302. 

.lones  23. 

Kempt  90. 

Lewey's,  Me.  35. 

Lily,'N.  B  22. 

Little  HalLi  302. 

Long,  P.  Q.  58. 

Long, N.  S.  82. 

Masiaguadavic  38. 

Malaga,  N.  S.  129. 

Manor,  P.  Q.  319. 

Maqnapit,  N.  B.  48. 

Mf'tapeilia  69. 

Mira.C.  B.  154. 

Mi-<tassini  301. 

Moosehead  58. 

Mount  Theobald  71. 


Lake  Nepisiguit  55. 

Nictor,  N.  B.  5.5. 

Oromocto  38. 

Pechtaweek.agomic  58. 

Pemgockwahen  58. 

Pockwock  100. 

Pohenagamook  58. 

Ponhook,  N.  S   126. 

Porter's  131. 

Pftrt  Medwav  130. 

Preble,  Me.  '57. 

Prince  William  .52. 

Queens,  N.  B.37. 

Quiddv  Viddy  196. 

Robin  Hood  37. 

Rocky,  N.  S.  82.  \ 

Rnssignol  130. 

St.  Charle'*  279. 

St.  .Joachim  287. 

St.  John,  P.  Q.  301. 

St.  Peter,  P.  Q.  307. 

Seilgwick  57. 

Segum  Sega  130. 

Shcogomoc  52. 

Shepody,  N.  B.  72. 

Sherbrooke  90. 

Sherwood,  N.  B.  37. 

Ship  Harbor  132. 

S.  Oromocto  38. 

Spruce,  N.  B.  24. 

Stream  49. 

Taylor's  23. 

Temiscouata  58,  295. 

Terra  Nova  203. 

Tracy's,  N    B.  71. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  116. 

Two-Mile  90. 

Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Vaughan,  N.  S.  115. 

Washademoak  47,  42. 

Welastookwjuagamls  58. 

Wentworth  113. 

Windsor,  N.  F.  195. 

AVinthrop,  Me.  58. 
Lakes,  Ayle.*<ford  90. 

Bras  d 'Or  161. 

Chiputneticook  38. 

Dartmouth  101. 

Eagle,  Me.  58. 

Sc hoodie,  Me.  ,35. 

Tn.^ket,  N.  S.  115. 
La  Manche  197,  212. 
Ii!ince-au-Lou]i  228. 
Lance  Cove  206. 
Land's  End,  41. 
Langlev  Id   186. 
Lanoraie,  P.  Q.  308. 
L'An.«e  .\  I'Ean  305. 
La  Poile,  N.  F.  215. 
L'.Vrchcvcque  147. 
LArdoise,  C.  B.  146. 
Large  Id.  231. 
LaScie221,211. 
L'AssomptioD,  P.  Q.  308. 


Ix)b 

Loci 

Loc 

Loc 

Loc 

liOC 

Locli 
fjocki 
Log 

LoM< 

I.rf)ng 

I..on^ 

Long 

Long 

I»ng 

Long' 

Long! 

Loretl 

Lotbii 


INDEX. 


327 


lie  58. 

58. 

58. 
126. 

JO. 

52. 
37. 
195. 


l  301. 
i.307. 

130. 

I. 

B.  72. 

0. 

,  B.  37. 

132. 

38. 

;.  24. 


L  58,  295. 
!03. 

.71. 

115. 


i.32. 
f.S.  115. 

,ak47,42. 

[iUipVUllS  00. 

113. 

.  F.  195. 
Klo.  58. 
lord  90. 

,r>i. 

ook  38. 
101. 
158. 
ill'.  35. 
8. 115. 
,7,212. 
ip  228. 

m. 

41. 
M. 

Q.  308. 
im  305. 
F.  215. 
lie  147. 
.  B.  146. 

11. 
•211 
,a,  P.  Q  308. 


Laval  River  299. 
Lavaltrie,  P.  Q.  308. 
La  Vieille  246. 
Lawlor's  Lake  70. 
Lawrencetown  89,  131. 
Lazaretto,  Tracadie  62. 
Ledge,  The  36. 
Leitchfield,  N.  S.  86. 
Lennox  Id.  179. 
Lennox  Passage  145 
Les  iJboulenients  294. 
Les  Ecureuils  306. 
Lea  Escoumnins  233. 
L'Etang  du  Nord  184. 
L'Etang  du  Savoyard  185. 
L'Etang  Harbor  31. 
Letite  Passage  32. 
Levis,  P.  Q  282. 
liewey's  Id.  35. 
Lewis  Cove  47. 
Lily  Lake  22. 
Lingan  152, 150. 
Lion's  Back  23. 
Liscomb  Harbor  132. 
L'Islet,  P.  Q.  263. 
L'Islet  au  Mn^sacre  250 
Little  Arichat  145. 
Little  Bay  Id.  206,  211. 
Little  Bras  d'Or  161. 
Little  Falls  67. 
Little  Glace  Bay  153. 
Little  Ha  Ha  I^ike  302. 
Little  Loran  154. 
Little  Miquolon  186. 
Little  Narrows  167. 
Little  Pabos241. 
Little  Placentia  212. 
Little  River  22. 
Little  Ilocher  72. 
Little  Saguenay  304. 
Little  St.  lAwrenoe  214. 
Little  Seldoni-rome-by  210. 
Little  Shemogue  59. 
Little  Tancook  128. 
Liverpool,  N.  S.  120,130. 
Lobster  Harbor  221. 
Looh  Alva  37. 
Loch  an  Fad  147. 
Loch  Lon>ond,  0.  B.  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  N    B.  22. 
Lochsido,  V,.  B.  147. 
Loch  Ui.st  147. 
I^icke's  Id  ,  N.  S   121. 
Lo-io  B.'iy  195.  200. 
Loiidondcrrv  105. 
Ungld.40;  42.  101,117. 
Long  Pilgrim  252. 
Long  Point  231. 
Long  Range  217. 
liong  Reach  41. 
Long'.s  Kddy  30. 
Longue  Point  319. 
Lon'tte,  Indian  278. 
Lotbiuiire,  P.  Q  306. 


iLouisbourg.  C.  B.  164, 149. 
I  Loup  Bay  228. 
Low  Point  168. 
Lower  Canterbury  52. 
Ijowor  Caraquettc  6<). 
Losvcr  French  Vill  51. 
,  Lower  Horton  107. 
Lower  IVIiddleton  89. 
Ix)wer  Prince  William  51. 
Lower  Queensbury  51. 
Lower  \Voodstock  52. 
Lubec,  Me  26. 
Ludlow,  N.  B.  47. 
Lunenburg  118,  128. 

iMabou,  C.  B.  169 
iMabou  Valley  168. 
McAdani  .luiic.  38. 
Miu-can.N.  S.  80,79. 
Mace's  Bay  31. 
MoNab's  Id.  101,  93. 
Madawaska  57. 
Magiigiiadavic  River  32. 
Magdalen  Ids.  183 
Magdelaiiie,  Cape  248 
Maguacha  Point  67,  239. 
Magundy,  N.  B.  51. 
Mahogany  Road  24. 
Mahoiie  Hay  127,118. 
Maiii-4-I)ieu  150. 
Maitland  82,  105,  129. 
MalagJi  Lake  1.30. 
Malagawdatchkt  165. 
Malbaie,  P   Q.  294. 
Mai  Bay  244. 
Malcolm  Point  61. 
Malignant  Cove  139. 
Malpeque  Harbor  178. 
Manchester,  N.  S.  133. 
Manicouagiin  233.  250. 
Manitou.sin  Falls  JJ2. 
Maquapit  Lake  48. 
Marchniont  280. 
Margaree  River  167. 
Margarec  Forks  170. 
Margaretsville  89. 
Maria,  P.  Q.  240. 
Marie  Joseph  132. 
Marion  Bridge!  154. 
Marshalltown  112. 
MaM  Head  117. 
Mars  Hill  54. 
Marsh  Roa<l  22. 
Marshy  Hope  138. 
IVIascnrene  32. 
Masstown  81. 
Matane,  P.  Q.  249 
!Mattawanjkeag  39,  58. 
Maugvrville.  N.  B.  43. 
Mealy  Mts.  225. 
Meccatina,  \j\h.  230. 
iMedisco,  N.  B  60. 
iMeductic  Rapids  52. 
jMejarinette  Portage  40. 


Melford  Creek  143. 
Melrose,  N   S  82. 
Melvern  Square  89. 
Melville  Id.  101. 
Melville  Uke  226. 
Memniuicook  73. 
Menisheen  Id.  212. 
Mcrigoniish  138. 
Metapedia  69. 
Meteghan,  N   S.  113. 
Metis.  P.  Q.  249. 
Middle  Musquodoboit  82. 
.Middle  Kiver  ir.3,  16<. 
Middle  Simonds.  53 
Mid.llc  Stewiacke  81. 
Middleton,  N.  S.  89. 
Milford,  N  S.  129. 
Milford  Haven  133. 
Milkish  Channel  41. 
.Mill  (^ove,  N.  B.  49. 
Miile  Vaches  299. 
Milltown,  N.  B  35. 
Mill  Village  128. 
Minas  Basin  101,  108 
Mingan  Ids.,  fjib.  231. 
Ming's  Bight  221. 
Minister's  Face  22. 
.Minudie,  N.  S.  79. 
Mi(iuelon  185,  214. 
.Mini  Bay  150. 
.Mira  I^ike,  C.  B.  154. 
Miramichi,  N.  B.  61. 
■Vliscouche  179. 
MLscou  Id.  64. 
Misppck,  N.  B.  23. 
Mi.«^siguasli  Marsh  79,  74. 
IMission  Point  68 
Mistanoque  M  230. 
Mista.ssini,  wikc  301. 
Moisic  River  232. 
Molasses  Harl)or  IM. 
Momozeket  River  55. 
Moncton,  N.  B   72. 
.Money  Cove  30. 
Montague  Bridge  181 
Montague  Mines  101, 131. 
Mont  .Joli  231. 
Mont  Louis  249. 
Montniorenci  Falls  277. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  309. 

Bonsecours  Market  312. 

Champ  (le  Mars,  312. 

Christ  Ch.  Cathed.  314. 

Court  House  312. 

Doiiiiiiion  Sq.  315. 

Ocolog.  Mu.scum  312. 

Oes.i  (Miurch  313. 

(iray  Nunnery  315. 

Oreat  Scmiinary  315. 

Hotel  Dieu  31<). 

Institut  Canadien312. 

Mc(}ill  Cniv.  314. 

Montreal  Coll.  316. 

Mt.  Royal  316. 


328 


INDEX. 


1^' 


i 


I  ^ 


h  ' 


Montreal,   Nasireth    Asyl 
316. 

New  Cathedral  316. 

Notre  Dame  311. 

Place  d'ArmeH  311. 

Post-Offlce  311. 

Seminary  312 

St  Helen'8  IpIo  313. 

Victoria  Bridge  816. 

Victoria  Square  311, 
Moose  Harbor  120. 
Mno.'iepath  Park  22. 
Morden,  N.  S.  89. 
Morrell,  P.  E.  1. 182. 
Morris  Id.  116. 
Morristown  90, 139. 
Mosquito  Cove  208. 
Moss  Glen  22 
Moulin  -Ji  Baude  299. 
Mount  Aspotogon  127. 

Blair  32. 

Calvaire  186. 

Caniille  250. 

Chateau  186. 

Dalhousie  67* 

Denson  91. 

Eboulement8  294,253. 

Granville  146. 

Ilawley  89. 

Hermon  Cemet.  280. 

Joli  242. 

Nat  225. 

Pisgah  71. 

Royal  Jjl6, 318. 

St.  Anne  242. 

Stewart,  P.  B.  1. 181. 

Teneriffe,  N.  B.  55. 

Uniacke,  N.  S.  93. 
Mountain.  Ardoise,  93. 

Bald,  38,  66. 

Beloeil  319. 

Boar's  Back  132. 

Boucherville  319. 

Chamcook  33. 

North  84. 

Salt  168. 

South  84. 

Sugar-Loaf  159. 

Tncadiegaah  67,  239. 
Mountains,  Antigonish  139. 

Baddeck  163. 

Blue  84,90,115,130. 

Cobcquid  80. 

Ingouish  161. 

Mealy  225. 

Notre  Dame  249. 

St.  Anne  287. 

St.  Margaret  305^. 

^'caumenac  68. 

Sporting  146. 
Mull  River  168. 
Murray  Bay  294 
Murray  Harbor  181. 
Mushaboon  Harbor  182. 


Musquash,  N.  B.  31. 
Musquodoboit  131 
Mutton  Ids.  124. 

Nain,  Lab  226. 
Napan  Valley  61. 
Narrows,  The  47,  54. 
Narrows,  Grand  164 
Nashwaak  47- 
Nashwaakfis  45. 
Natashquan  Point  231 
Natural  Steps,  The  277. 
Necuni  Tench  132 
Negroid.,  N.  S.  122. 
Negrotown  Point  16. 
Nelson,  N.  B.  63. 
Nepisiguit  hake  66. 
Nepisiguit  River  66. 
Nerepis  Hills,  N.  B.  41. 
Nerepis  River  38. 
Netsbuctoke  225.        ' 
Neutral  Id.,  N.  B  34. 
New  Albany,  N.  S.  89. 
New  Bandon  66. 
New  Bay  211. 
New  Bonaventure  210. 
New  Brunswick  13. 
Newburgh,N.  B  50. 
New  Canaan  48. 
New  Carlisle  240. 
Newcafitle  49,  62. 
New  Dublin  119. 
New  Edinburgh  112. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  Glasgow,  N.  S.  136. 
New  Glasgow,  P.  E.  I.  178. 
New  Liverpool  282. 
New  London  178. 
Newman  Sound  203. 
New  Perlican  209. 
Newport,  N.  S.  92, 101. 
Newport,  P.  Q.  241 
New  Richmond  240. 
New  Ross,  N.  S.  90. 
New  Tusket  113. 
Niapisca  Id.  231. 
Nicolet,  P.  Q  3tJ8. 
Nictau  Falls  89. 
Nictor  Lake  56. 
Niger  Sound  227. 
Nimrod,  N.  F.  211. 
Nipper's  Harbor  206,  211. 
Noel,  N   S.  106. 
North  Bay  214. 
Northern  Head  30. 
Northfleld  129. 
North  Harbor  212. 
North  Joggins  73. 
North  Uke  182. 
North  Mt.  84. 
North  Point  180. 
North  River  Falls  106. 
North  Rustico  178. 
North  Sydney  151. 


Northumberland  Strait  60, 

174,  239. 
Northwest  Arm  100. 
North  Wilfshire  177. 
Norton,  N.  B.  71,42. 
Nor  west.  Lab.  226 
Notre  Dame  Bay  210,  205. 
Notre  Dame  du  Lac  68. 
Nova  Scotia  76. 
Nubble  Id  81. 

Oak  Bay,  N.  B.  34. 
Oak  Point  41,  61. 
Ochre  Pit  Cove  208. 
Offer  Wadham  204.'  ' 
Okkak,  Lab.  226. 
Old  Barns  81. 
Old  Bonaventure  210. 
Old  Ferolle  219. 
Old  Fort  Point  168. 
Oldham  Mines  82. 
Old  Maid  29. 
Old  Periican  209,  201. 
Oldtown,  Me.  39. 
Olonmnosheebo  231> 
Onslow  80. 
Oromocto,  N.  B.  43. 
Oromocto  Lake  38. 
Orono,  Me.  39. 
Otnabog,  N.  B.  42. 
Ottawa,  Ont.  320. 
Outarde  River  250. 
Oxford,  N.  3.  80. 
Ovens,  the  119. 

Pabineau  Falls  66. 
Pabos,  P.  Q.  241. 
Painsec  June.  72,  69. 
Paps  of  Matane  249. 
Paradise,  N.  F.  226. 
Paradise,  N.  S.  89. 
Parrsboro',  N.  S.  102. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  B.  16. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.S.  102. 
Paspebiac,  P.  Q  240. 
Patrick's  Hole  290. 
Patten,  Me.  68. 
Penguin  Ids.  203. 
Penobscot  River  39. 
Pcnobsquis,  N.  B.  71. 
Pentecost  River  233. 
Pepiswick  Lake  131. 
Perc  •,  P.  Q.  242. 
Pervoquets,  The  232. 
Perry,  Me.  28. 
Perth,  N.  B.  54. 
Petitcodiac  72,  48. 
Petit  de  Grat  146. 
Petite  Bergeronne  233. 
Petite  Passage  117. 
[  jtitM.tia'^9 
Petty  Harbor  197. 
Piccadilly  Mt.  71. 
Pickwaakeet  42. 


P< 


Poi 
Por 
1 
I 


Aid  Stnit  60, 

mlOO. 
re  177. 
71,42. 
.226 

lay  210, 205. 
lu  Lac  58. 
•6. 
L. 

B.  34. 

,61. 

ve208.    ^ 
[n204.' 
226. 

iture  210. 
519. 
int  158. 

les  82. 

[  209, 201. 
B.  39. 
«bo231. 

'^.  B.  43. 
lake  38. 
39. 

.  B.  42. 
t.  320. 
ver  250. 
S.  80. 
119. 

falls  66. 
.  241. 
Qc.  72, 69. 
tane  249. 
F.225. 

,  S.  89. 

N.  S.  102. 
[d.,N.B.  15. 
[d.  N.  S.  102. 

P  Q  240. 

ole290. 

.68. 
ds.  203. 

River  39. 
8,N.B.  71. 

River  233. 

Lake  131. 
Q.  242. 
,  riie  232. 
28. 

B.  64. 

;  72,  48. 

rat  145. 

•geronne  233. 

sage  117. 

18  249 

bor  197. 
Mt.  71. 

ect42. 


Pictou  137, 166. 
Pictou  Id.  175. 
Pilgrims,  The  252. 
Pincher's  Id.  203. 
PinuacleTd.,N.  S.  105. 
Pirate's  Cove  143. 
Pisariuco  ^^^ove  31. 
Plaoentia  h  y  212. 
Plains  of  Abraham  280. 
Plaster  Cove  143,  168. 
Pleasant  Bay  183. 
Pleasant  Point  27. 
Pleureusc  Point  249. 
Pluniweseep  71. 
Pockmouche,  N.  B.  62. 
Pockshaw,  N.  B.  66. 
Point  k  Bcauiieu  295 
Point  Aconi.C.  B.  161. 

Amour,  Lab.  228. 

k  Pique  294 

au  Bourdo  69. 

de  Monts  233,  249. 

du  Chene  59,  60. 

la  Boule  305. 

Lepreau  31. 

Levi,  P  Q.  282. 

Maquereiiu  241. 

Miscou,  N   B.  64. 

Orignaux  252. 

Pleasant  40,  68,  100. 

Prim  175, 181. 

Rich.N.  F  219. 

St.  Charles  316. 

St.  Peter  244. 

Wolfe,  N.  B.  71. 
Pointe  &  la  Oarde  68. 

i  la  Croix  68. 

aux  Trembles  306,  309. 

Mille  Vacbes  233. 

Roches  301. 

Rouge  299. 
Pokiok  Falls  52. 
Pollett  River  72. 
Pomquet  Forks  189. 
Pond,  Deer,  N.  F.  219. 

Grand,  N.  F  218. 

Red  Indian  211. 

Quemo-Gospen  213 
Ponhook  Lake  130, 126. 
Port  Acadie,  N.  S.  113 
Portage  Road,  N.  B.  61. 
Port  au  Basque,  N.  F.  216. 

au  Choix  219. 

au  Persil,  P.  Q.  295. 

au  Pique  81. 

au  Port,  N.  F.  218. 

aux  Quilles,  295. 

Daniel  241. 

Elgin,  N.  B.  78. 
Porter's  Lake,  N.  8  131. 
Port  Greville,  N.  S.  103. 

Hastings,  C.  6.  143. 

Ilawkesbury  148. 

Uerbert,  N.  S.  121. 


INDEX. 


Port  Hill,  P.  E.  I.  179. 

Hood,  C.  B.  169. 

Joli,  N.  S.  121. 

Latour,  N.  S.  122. 

Med  way,  N.  S.  120. 

Mouton  120 

Mulgr.ive  143, 140. 
Port  Neuf,  Lab.  233. 
Portneuf,  P.  Q.  306. 
I  Porto  Nuevo  Id.  149. 
'Portugal  Cove  195,  206. 
Port  St.  Augustine  230. 
Port  .Villiauis  89,  91 
Powder-llorn  Hills  212. 
Pownal,  P.  E  I.  177. 
Presque  Isle,  Me.  54. 
Preston,  N.  S.  131. 
Preston's  Beach  61. 
Prim  Point  83. 
Prince  Edwai-d  Id  172 
iPrincetown.P.  E.  I.  178. 
Prince  William  62. 
Prince  William  St.  89. 
Pubnico,  N.  S.  125. 
Pugwash81,80. 

Quaco,  N.  B.  71. 
Quebec,  P.  Q.  265. 

Anglican  Cathedral  200. 

Basilica  261 

Cathedral  261 

Citadel  266. 

Custom  House  271. 

Durham  Terrace  259. 

Esplanade  268 

Gen.  Hospital  272. 

Gov.'s  Garden  269 

Grand  Battery  269. 

H3tel  Dieu  266 

.lesuits'  College  261. 

Laval  University  263. 

Lower  Town  271- 

Marine  Hopp  272. 

MarV.ot  Sq.  260. 

Martello  Towers  270. 

Montcalm  Ward  270. 

Morrin  College  265 

N.  D.  des  Victoires  271. 

Parliament  Building  263. 

Post -Office  264. 

St.  John  Ward  269. 

St.  Roch  272. 

Seminary  262. 

Ursuline  Conv.  264. 
Quemo  Go.«pen  213. 
Quiddy  Viddy  195 
Quirpon,  N.  F  220. 
Quispamsis,  N   B.  70. 
Quoddy  Head  26. 
Ragged  Harbor  201. 
Ragged  Ids.  212. 
Ramealds.  N.  F.  216 
Ram  Id.  121. 
Rain's  Ids.  N.  F.  212. 


329 


Random  Sound  209. 
Rankin's  Mills,  N.  B.  87. 
Rapide  de  Femme  56. 
Rapids,  I.jichine  319. 

Meductic  52. 

St  Anne  320. 

St.  Mtry's  319. 

Terres  Rompues  300. 
Red  Bay  228. 
Red  Cliffs,  Lab.  220,  228. 
Red  Head,  N.  F.  200. 
Red  Hills,  N.  F.  199. 
Red-Indian  Pond  210,  211. 
Red  Ids  147 
Red  Point;  182 
Red  Rapids,  N.  B.  54. 
Remsheg,  N.  S  81. 
Renewse,  N.  F.  198. 
Renlrew,  N.  S.  82. 
Repentigny,  P.  Q.  308 
Restigouche  River  69,  56. 
Richibucto,  N.  B.  60. 
Richmond  Bay  178. 
Rigolette,  Lab.  226. 
Rimouski,  P.  Q  250 
River,  Avon,  N   S.  91. 

Charlo,  N.  B.  66. 

Denys,  C.  B.  166. 

Gold,  N.  S.  128 

Gouffre,  P.  Q,  292. 

Hillsborough  180. 

number,  N   F.  219. 

iohn,N  S.  81. 

LaHave,  N.  S.  128. 

Louison,  N.  B.  66. 

Magaguadavic  32. 

Manitou,  I^ab.  232. 

Miramichi  61. 

Mistassini  301. 

Moisic,  Lab.  232. 

Nepisiguit  65,  55. 

of  Castors  219 

Explo-ta  210. 

Ottawa  320. 

Petitcodiac  72. 

Philip,  N.  S.  80. 

Restigouche  69,  56. 

Saguenay  297,  233. 

St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  286. 

St.  Croix,  N.  B  33. 

St.  John,  Lab  232. 

St.  Lawrence  246,  306 

St.  Marguerite  305. 

St.  Mary's,  N.  S.  13a 

St  Maurice  807. 
Riversdale,  N.  S  186. 
River,  Tobiaue  54. 
Riviere  4  TOurs  801. 

k  Mars  802. 

du  Loup  295, 262. 

Maheu  290. 

Ouelle,  P.  Q.  252. 
Robbinston,  Me.  88. 
Robervul,  P.  Q.  801. 


1' 


330 


INDEX. 


Robinson's  Point  48. 
Rochette,  N.  B.  66. 
Rock,  Perc.^242. 
Rockland,  N.  B.  73. 
Rockport  73. 
Rocky  Bay.N.  F.  210. 
Rocky  I^kc,  N.  S.  82. 
Rollo  Bay,  P.  E.  1. 182. 
Ro.sades,  The  251. 
Rose  Bay  119. 
Rose  Blanche  215 
Rossignol  Ijake  130. 
Rosa  way,  N.  S.  116. 
Rothesay  22,  70. 
Rough  Waters  66. 
Round  Harbor  211. 
Route  dea  l»retres  290. 
Royalty  June.  177. 
Rustico,  P.  E.  1.  178. 

Sabbattee  Lake  127. 
Sabiuun  Lake  124. 
Sable  Id.  134. 
Sackville,  N.  B.  73. 
Sacred  Ids.  220. 
Saddle  Id.  227 
Sagona  Id.  214. 
Saguenay  River  297. 
St.  Agjies,  P.  Q.  295. 
St.  Albans,  P.  Q.  281. 
St.  Alexis  69,  302. 
St.  Alphonse,  P.  Q.  302. 
St.  Andrews,  N.  B.  33,28. 
St.  Andrews,  P.  K  I.  181. 
St.  Andrew's  Ciiannel  1(35. 
St.  Angel  de  Laval  307. 
St.  Anne  (Bout  de  PI.)  320 
St.  Anne  de  Beaupr6  285. 
St.  Anne  de  la  Perade  307. 

Anne  de  la  Pocatiere  253. 

Anne  des  Monts  249. 

Anne  du  Nord  285. 

Anne  du  Saguenay  300. 

Anne  Mts.  287. 
St.  Anne's  Bay  158. 
St.  Anthony  221. 
St.  Antoine  de  Tilly  306. 
St.  Antoine  l»erou  292. 
St.  Ars.ne  296 
St.  Augustin  306. 
St.  Barbe  219. 
St.  Bai^ll  57. 
St   Bruno  319. 

Cecile  \n  Bio  251. 

Charles  Harbor  227. 
St.  Colomb  280. 
St.  Croix,  P.  Q.  306. 
St.  Croix  Cove  89. 
St.  Croix  River  33. 
St.  Cuthbert  308. 
St.  David's  178. 
St.  Denis,  P.  Q.  252. 
St.  Donat,  P.  Q.  250. 
St.  Eleanors,  P.  E.  1. 179. 


St 

St 
St 
St 
St 


St. 
St. 


St.  Elizabeth,  P.  Q.  308. 
St.  Esprit,  C.  B.  148. 
St.  Etienne  Bay  306. 
St.  Fabien,  P.  Q  251. 
St.  Famine,  P.  Q.  289. 
St.  Felicif,  P.  Q  249. 
St.  Felix  de  Valois  ,308. 
St.  For,  ol,  P.  Q  287. 
St.  Fidele,  P.  Q.  ,95. 
St.  Flavie  70,  250. 
St   Foy,  P.  Q.  281. 
St.  Francis  58. 
St.  Francis  Harbor  225. 
St.  FrauQoi.^  290. 
St.  Fran^-ois  du  Lac  308. 
St.  Franc^'ois  Xavier  292. 
St.  Fulgence301. 
St.  Genevieve  219 
St.  Oeorge,  N.  B.  32. 
St.  George's  Bay  217. 
St.  George's  Channel  165. 
St.  Germain  de  Rim.  250. 
St.  Irvnc^e  294. 
Sb.  Ignace,  Cap  253. 
St.  Jaques  214. 
St  .Jean  Baptiste  318. 
St.  .Jean  Deschaillons  307- 
St.  Jean  d'Orleans  290. 
St.  Jean-Port-Joli  253. 
St.  Jerome,  P.  Q.  301. 
St.  Joachim  287. 
St.  John,  N.  R.  15. 

Cathedral  18. 

Custom-House  17. 

Gen.  Pub.  Hosp.  18. 

Ilurbor  15. 

King  Square  16. 

Post-Offlce  17. 

St.  Paul's  19. 

Trinity  17. 

Valley,  The  19. 

Wiggins  Asyl.  1". 

Y.  M.  C.  A   16. 
St.  John,Liike301. 
St.  John's,  N.  F.  189. 

Anglican  Cathedral  191. 

Colonitil  Building  192. 

Gov't  House  192. 

Harbor  189 

Narrows  191. 

Roman -Catholic      Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal  Hill  193. 
St.  John's  Bay  304. 
St.  Jones  Harbor  209. 
St.  Joseph,  N.  B  73. 
St.  Joseph  P.  Q.  282 
St.  Ijiurent  290. 
St.  Lawrence  Bay  100. 
St.  Lawrence  River  246, 305 
St.  Leonard,  N.  B.  56. 
St.  Leon  Springs  308. 
St.  Lewis  Sound  225. 
St.  Louis  Isle  304. 


St.  Luce,  P.  Q.  250. 

St.  Lunaire  221. 

St.  Margaret  River  233. 

St.  Margaret's  Bay  219. 

St.  Margaret's  Bay  126, 118 

St.  Marguerite  River  305. 

St.  Martin,P.  Q.  318. 

St  Martins,  N.  B.  71 

St.  Mary's,  N.  B.  45 

St.  Mary's,  N.  F  213 

St.  Mary's  Bay,  N   F.  213 

St.  Mary's  Bav,  N.  S.  112. 

St.  Mary's  Bay,  P  E.I.  181 

St.  Maurice  River  307. 

St.  Matthieu  251. 

St.  Michaels  Bay  225. 

St.  Michel  254. 

St.  Moileste  296. 

St  Norbert308. 

St.  Octjive,  P.  Q.  249. 

St.  On^sime,  P.  Q.  253. 

St.  Pacome,  P.  Q  263. 

St.  Paschal  252. 

St.  Patrick's  Channel  167. 

St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 

St.  Peter's,  C.B.  146. 

St.  Peter's,  N.  B.  66. 

St.  Peter's,  P.  E  I.  182. 

St.  Peter's  Bay  227. 

St.  Peter's  Inlet  165. 

St  Peter's  Id.  174. 

St.  Peter,  Lake  307. 

St.  Pierre  185,  214. 

St.  Pierre  d'Orleans  289. 

St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  307- 

St.  Placide,  P.  Q.  292. 

St.  Roch-des-Aulnaies  253. 

St.  Romuald,  P.  Q.  282. 

St.  Rose  de  Lima  318. 

St.  Shot's,  N.  F.  213. 

St.  Simeon,  295. 

St.  Simon  261. 

St.  Stephen,  N.  B.  35. 

St.  Sulpice,  P.  Q.  308. 

St.  Th -rese  318 

St.  Thomas,  P.  Q.  253. 

St.  Tite  des  Caps  287. 

.St.  Urbain  292. 

St.  Valier,  P.  Q.  254. 

St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  318. 

Salisbury,  N.  B.  72. 

Salmon  Cove  201. 

Sahnonier,  N.  F.  213. 

Salmon  River  49,  71, 114. 

Salt  Mt.,C.  B  167. 

Salutation  Point  174. 

Sambro  Id.  117. 

Sandwich  Bay  225. 

Sandwich  Head  227. 

Sandybeach  244. 

Sandy  Cove  116, 112. 

Sandy  Point  217. 

Sault  a  la  Puce  284. 

Sault  au  Coohon  291. 


Sou 

S. 

s. 

Spa 

Spet 

Spec 

Spei 

Spe 

Spi 

S,)ii 

Split 

Spot 

Spoi 

Spra 

Spra 

Sprii 

Sprii 

Sprii 


). 

•233. 

,•  219. 

y 120,118 

fox  3l»5. 

}18. 

1.71 

45 

213 

4   F.  213 

4.S.  112. 

E.I.  181 
r30T. 

^225. 


.249. 
Q.  263. 
i  253. 

lanuel  167. 

i92. 

1. 146. 

B.66. 

E  1. 182. 

227. 

it  166. 

174. 

;307. 

2i4. 

leans  289. 

Jecquets  307. 

,.ulnaie8  263. 
P.  Q.  282. 
,iia318. 
F.  213. 
5. 

B.  35. 

Q.  308. 

8 

Q.  253. 
apa  287. 
2. 
Q.  254.    ^ 

Paul,  318. 
B.72. 
201. 

F  213. 

49,71,U*- 
i  167. 
>iut  174. 
17. 

,y  225. 
ad  227. 
244. 

L16, 112. 
217. 
,ce  284. 
hou  291. 


Sault  au  Kecollet  318. 
Sauitde  Mt)uton233. 
Soatari,  V.  B.  150. 
Schoodic,  Lakes  .35. 
Sootclitown,  N    B.  48. 
Scotch  Vill!iK'e9;3. 
Sculpin  Point  214. 
Seal  Cove,  N.  B  29. 
Seal  Cove,  N   F.  221. 
Seal  Id  N.  S.  124. 
Seal  Ids.  225. 
Sea-Trout  I'olnt  175. 
Sea- Wolf  Id.  Kl!). 
Seeley'H  MUU  71. 
Seguni-Se}?a  Lakes  130. 
Seldom-conie-by  210. 
Seven  Ids.,  Lab.  232. 
Shag  Id.  230. 
Shawancgan  Falls  307. 
Shecatica  Bay  230. 
Shediac  59,  6U,  174. 
Sheet  Harbor  132. 
Shell)urne,  N.  S.  121. 
Shepody  Bay  73. 
Slu'podv  Mt  72. 
Sherbrooke  133,  132. 
Sherbrooke  Lake  90. 
Shinimicas,  N.  S  78. 
Sliip  Harbor  132 
Shippigan  Id.  63. 
Shoo  Cove  211,  221. 
Shubenacadie  82. 
Sillery,  P.  Q.  280. 
Silver  Falls,  N.  B.  22. 


Ilauiil  ton's 


203. 


Sir     Charles 

Sound,    N.  F. 
Si.ssiboo  Falls  112. 
Skve  Glen  168. 
Smith's  Sound  209. 
Smoky ,  Cajxi  169. 
Sorel,"  P.  Q.  308. 
Souris,  P.  E  I   182. 
South  Bay,  N.  B.  40. 
South  Mt.  84. 
South  Oromocto  Lake  .38. 
Southport,  P.  E  I.  177. 
South  Quebec  282. 
S.  W  Head  29. 
S.  W.  Miramichi  62. 
Spaniard's  Bay  207. 
Spear  Harbor  225. 
Spectacle  Id.  120. 
Spencer's  Id.  103, 104, 106. 
Spencer  Wood  280. 
ti=piller  Rocks  202. 
Split,  Cape  104 
Split  Rock,  31. 
Spotted  Id.  225. 
Spout,  The  197. 
Spragg's  Point  42. 
Sprague's  Cove  29. 
Springfield,  N 
Springfield,  N  S  89. 
Springhill,  N.  B.  61. 


i>.  12. 


INDEX. 


SpnngIIill,N.  S.  80. 

Spruce  Id  31 

Spruce  I>iike  24. 

Si.ry  IJay  132. 

Stanley,  N.  15   m. 

Statue  Point  80.3. 

Steep  Creek  143. 

Stellarton,  N.  8.  136. 

Stewiiieke  82. 

Stone  Pili:ir253. 

Storniont,  N.  S.  1,33 

Strait  of  ISarra  1(14. 

Strait  (.f  Relle  l.>^le  220,  227- 

Strait  of  Cans  .  112. 

Stmit  of    Nortliuinberland 

60,  174   239 
Strait  Shore,  N.  F   196. 
Sugar  Id   50, 51 
Sugar- Loaf,  N.  H.  68. 
Su|.;ar-Loaf,  N.  F.  2W,  217 
Suninier.'^ide,  I'   E    I.  178. 
Siinacailie,  C.  B    164. 
Su.^sex  Vale,  N.  B.  71. 
Swailow-Tail  Head  29. 
Sydney,  C.  B.  150. 
Sydney  Mines  152. 

Tableau,  Lt»  30,3. 
Table  Head  227. 
Table  Roulante  243. 
Tabusiniac  61,  62. 
Tadou.«ac,  P.  q  299. 
Tangier,  N.  S  1,32 
Tannery  West  319. 
Tantraniar  .Marsh  79,  74. 
Tatainagourhe,  N.  S.  81. 
Tea  Hill,  l>.  E.  1.  177. 
Tedish,  N.  B.  59 
Temi.^couatii  Ijike  58, 295. 
Temple  Bay,  Uih  227. 
Tennant's  Cove  42. 
Tlioroughfare,  The  48. 
Three  Rivers  307. 
Three  Tides,  P.  E.  I.  174. 
Tliree  Towers,  N.  F.  211. 
Thrumcap  Shoal  93. 
Tickle  Cove  203 
Tidnish,  N.  S.  78. 
Tignish,  P.  E.  I   180. 
Tilt  Cove  205,  211 
Tilton  Harbor  210. 
Toad  Cove  197. 
Tobi(iue,  N.  B.  64. 
Tolt  Peak  217. 
Tonikedgwick  River  69. 
Top.-*ail,  N.  F.  206 
Torbay.  N.  F.  195,200. 
Tor  Bay,  N.  S.  134. 
Tonnentine,  Cape  174. 
Torrent  Point  227. 
Tracadie,  N   B.  62. 
iTracadie,  N.  S.  139. 
Tracadie,  P.  E.  I.  181. 
iTracadiegash  67,  239. 


O'.M 


Tracv'8  L.ake  71. 
Tracy's  Mills,  38^ 
Travers*',  Cape  174. 
Treniont,  N.  S.  89. 
Treimssey,  N.  F  213. 
Trinity,  N.  F  201. 
Trinity  Hay  208,201. 
Trinity,  Cape  303. 
Trinity  Cove  im. 
Trois  Pl.-toles  251. 
Trois  Riviires  307. 
Trou  St.  Patri<e290. 
Trouty,  N.  F.  210. 
Truro,  N   S.  81. 
Tr\on.  P.  E  I.  174. 
Tusket  Ids.  125,  115. 
Tusket  Lakes  115. 
T.veednogie,  C.  B.  148. 
Tweedside,  N.  B.  38. 
Twillingate,  N.  F.  206. 

IJngava  Bay  226. 
I'jiper  Caratiuette  66. 
Upper  Gagetown  43. 
Upper  Musquodoboit  82. 
Upper  Queensbury  52. 
Up.salquitch  River  69. 
Utopia,  Lake  32. 

Van  Buren,  Me.  66. 
Vanceboro,  Me.  38. 
Varennes,  P.  Q.  308. 
Veazie,  Me.  39. 
Venison  Id.  226. 
Vernon  River  181. 
Victoria  53. 
Victoria  Line  168. 
Victoria  Mines  1,52. 
Airginia  Water  195- 

Wallace  Vallev  80. 
Walrus  ](i.  2,31. 
Walton  106,  93. 
Wapitagun  liar.  230. 
Wapskehegjin  River  64. 
Ward's  Harbor  211. 
Washademoak  Lake  47. 
Wash-shecootai  231 
Watagheistic  Sound  280 
Watchabaktchkt  164. 
Watt  .Func.  37. 
Waverley  Mines  82. 
Wa\veig,N.  B.  36. 
Welch  pool,  N   B.  25. 
Wellington  179. 
Welsford,  N.  B.  38. 
Wentworth,  N   S.  80. 
West  Bay,  C.  B.  166. 
Westchester,  N.  S,  80. 
\Ve8tfield,  \.  B.  41. 
West  Isles  31. 
West  Point  179. 
West  Port,  N.  S.  117. 
West  River  226. 


332 


INDEX. 


Weymouth,  N  S.  112. 
Whale  Uove  29. 
White  Bay  221. 
White  Haven  134. 
White  Horse  31. 
White's  Cove  49 
Whycocomagh,  C.  B.  167. 
Wickham,  42,  47. 
Wicklow,  N.  B.  63. 
Wiggins  Cove  49. 


William  Henry  308. 
Wilmot  Springs  89. 
Wilson's  Beach  25. 
Wilton  Grove  210. 
Windsor,  N  S.  91,101. 
Windsor  June.  82,  93. 
Windsor  Lake  195. 
Wine  Harbor  133. 
Wiseumu's  Cove  221. 


Witless  Bay,  N.  F.  197. 
Wolf  River  231. 
Wolfville  107,  91. 
Wolves,  The  26,  31. 
Wood  Pillar  253. 
Woodstock  50,  37. 

Yarmouth,  N.  S.  114, 126. 
Yoi-k  River  174. 


Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allnsions. 


Acadian  Exiles  108, 113, 131 
Annapolis  Royal,  N   S.  86. 
Anticosti,  P.  Q.  234. 
Aukpaque,  N.  B.  46. 
Avalon,  N.  F.  198. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65. 
Bay  Bulls,  N.  F.  197. 
Bay  of  Chaleur  66. 
Beaubassin  and  Beausejour 

78. 
Bic  Island,  F.  Q.  250. 
Bras  d'Or,  C.  B.  165. 
Br.beuf,  Pere  266. 
Brest,  Lab.  230. 
Gampobello  Id.,  N.  B.  26. 
Caniida,  Lower  235. 
Cana'^a,  the  name  of  246. 
Can       N.  S.  144. 
C»,v     rjtton  149 
Ca^iv'  Jreton  (old  Province) 

141. 
Cape  Broyle,  N.  F.  197. 
Cape  Chatte,  P.  Q.  249. 
Cap*'  T)espair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Capedur,  N.S.  104. 
Cape  Sable,  N.  S.  123 
Cape  Sambro,  N.  S.  118. 
Caraquette,  N.  B.  66 
Carbonear,  N.  F.  208. 
Cartier's  Voyages  193,  204, 

245,272,293. 
Caughuawaga,  P.  Q.  319. 
Ghamplain,  Samuel  de  273. 
Charlottetown,  P.  E  1. 176. 
Chateau,  Lab  227. 
Chateau  Bigot,  P.  Q.  280 
Chiteau  Richer,  P.  Q  284. 
Chaumonot,  Pere  279. 
Chesaetcook,  N.  S.  131. 
Chicoutimi,  P.  Q.  300. 
Clare  Settlements,  N.  S.  118. 
Conception  Bay,  N.  F.  206. 
Constitution  and  Querriere 

200. 
CdtedoBeaupn'!278. 
D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour  19, 

87, 122. 


D'Avaugour,  Baron  246. 

Dawson,  Dr.  J.  W.  138. 

Dead  Islands,  N.  F.  216. 

Eastport,  Me.  27. 

Esquimaux,  the  226. 

Ferry  land,  N.  w.  198. 

Fort  La  Ilcve,  N.  S.  119. 

Forts  Lawrence  and  Cum- 
berland 78. 

Fort  Meductic,  N.  B.  52. 

FrederictJn,  N.  B.  46. 

Frontenac,  Count  de  262, 
*^73. 

Gasp6,  P.  Q  244. 

Gilbert,  Sir  Humphrey  136, 
193 

Glooscap  19.  41,  102,  106, 
120,  137,  144. 

Goat  Island,  N.  S.  85, 

Grand  Banks  199 

Grand  Lake,  N.  B.  48. 

Grand  Manan  28. 

Grand  Pr6,  N.  S.  108. 

Guysborough,  N.  S.  134. 

Haliburton,  Judge  92. 

Halifax,  N.  S.  99 

Huron  Indians  279,  289. 

Indian  Lorette  279. 

Ingonish.C.B.  159. 

Isle  aux  Coudres  293. 

Isle  of  Orleans  288. 

Jemseg,  N.  B.  42. 

Jesuits,  the  261,  266,  275, 
281 

King's  College  92. 

Labrador  222,  223 

Lachine,  P.  Q.  319. 

LfikeSt.  Johu.P.  Q.  801. 

Lake  Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Liverpool,  N.  S.  120. 

Lord's-Day  Gale  170,  168, 
186. 

Louisbourg,  C.  B.  154, 149. 

Lunenburg,  N.  S.  118. 

Madawaska,  N.  B.  57. 

Magdalen  Islands  184. 

Mahone  Bay,  N.  S.  128. 


Maugerville,  N.  B.  43. 
Micmac  Indians  68, 147,163, 

244. 
Mingan  Ids.,  Lab.  231. 
Miramichi  District  63. 
Mi8CouId.,N.  B.  64. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  317. 
Moravian  Missions  226. 
Murray  Bay,  P.  Q.  295. 
New  Brunswick  14. 
Newfoundland  187, 201, 202, 

204  222. 
Norsemen,  the  123, 204, 245. 
Nova  Scotia  76. 
Oromocto,  N  B.  43. 
iPassamoquoddy  Bay  27. 
i  Penobscot  Indians  39. 
Pere  •,  P.  Q.  243- 
Pic  ton,  N.  S.  137. 
Placentia,  N.  F.  212. 
Pleasant  Point,  Me.  27. 
Port  Ijitour,  N.  S.  122. 
Port  Mouton,  N  S.  121. 
Prince  Edward  Island  172. 
Quebec  272. 
Red  Indians  210,  218. 
Restigouche  69. 
Richibucto  Indians  60. 
Riviere  du  Loup  296. 
Riviere  Quelle  252. 
Robervals,  the  301. 
Robin  &  Co.  240. 
Sable  Island  135. 
Saguenay  River  298. 
St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  285. 
St.  Anne's  Bay,  C.  B  158. 
St.  Augustin,  P.  Q.  306. 
St.  Croix  Island  34. 
St.  Joachim,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  John,  N.  B.  19. 
St.  John  River  40. 
I  St.  John's,  N.  F.  19a 
St.  Mary's  Bay  112. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
St.  Paul's  Island  160. 
St.  Peter's,  C.  B.  146. 
St.  Pierre,  Miq.  186- 


Al 

Bf 

B« 

Be 

Bo 

Bo 

Bo 

Boi 

Brc 

Bui 

Car 
Cha 
Cha 

Cozz 


Ham 
Halic 

Ham] 
Hard! 
Hawfc 
Horic 
Hindi 
Howe 
21 
Imraj 

Johni 
/I 

Juked 

KaJnil 

Kirkt 

LaHd 

LaJei 


INDEX. 


333 


N.  F.  197. 
231. 
7,91. 
;26,31. 

253. 
50,  37. 

N.S.  114,126. 
174. 


ions. 

le  N  B.  43. 

idians  68, 147,163, 

is., Lab  231. 
i  District  bd. 
1.   N.B.64. 

,  P.  Q.  317. 

i' Missions^. 
3ay,P.Q-2&5. 

n8wickl4. 

dland  187,201,202, 

l^he  123,204,246. 

otia  76 
to,N  B.43. 
jquoddy  Bay27. 
•ot  Indians  **. 
?.  Q.  243. 
N.  S.  137. 
ia  N.F.212. 
,t  Point,  Me.  ^. 

outon,  N^  S.  1^1. 
Edward  Island  U^ 

•  272. 

dian8  210,218. 

>uche  69. 

ucto  IndiaS^.^- 
B  du  Loupes, 
e  Quelle  252. 
vals,  the  301. 
&  Co.  240. 

Island  135-  Q 
,nayHiver298. 
inedoBeaupr6  285. 

nne'8Bay,«.B  15»- 
ugustin,  P.  Q-  306. 
roix  Island  34. 
oachlm,  P.  Q-  287. 

ohn  River  40. 
ohn'8,N.F.l93. 

lary's  Bay  Ui- 
>auV8  Bay  292. 
haul's  Island  IW. 
Peter's,  0.  B.  146. 
Pierre,  Miq.  !»> 


Scottish  Migration  164 
Sillery.P.  Q.  281. 
Sorel,  P.  Q.  308. 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle  220. 
Sydney,  C.  B.  151. 
Sydney  Coal-Mines  153. 


Tadousac,  P  Q.  298,  299. 
Tilbury,  Wreck  of  the  148. 
Trt'pasfiey,  N.  F  213 
Trois  Pistoles,  P.  Q.  251. 
Truro,  N.  S.  81. 
Ursulines  of  Quebec  265. 


Index  to  Quotations. 


Walker's  Expedition   233, 

241. 
Wallis,  Admiral  100. 
Williams,  fl«n.  100. 
!  Windsor,  N   S.  92. 
i  Yarmouth,  N.  S.  114. 


Alexander,  Sir  J.  E.  38,  68. 

Baillie,  T.  43. 

Ballantyne,  R.  M.  292. 

Beecher,  Henry  Ward  268. 

Boucher  292. 

Bouchette,  R.  247,  278. 

Bougiinville238. 

Bonnyca.stle,  Sir  R.  67.  196,  218. 

Brown,  Richard  141,  154,  156,  167,  169, 

166,  233. 
Buies,  Arthur  240,  243,  244,  248, 250. 
Cartier,  Jacques  204,  246,  288,  298. 
Champlain  124,  273,  296. 
Charlevoix  30,  77,  150, 158, 184,  204,  233, 

238,247,289,293,299,300. 
Cozzens,  F.  S.  92,  96,  100,  111,  131,  140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Cremazie,  0.247. 
Dawson,  J.  W.  102, 142. 
De  Costa,  B.  F.  28,  29,  30. 
De  Mille,  Prof  106. 
Dilke,  Sir  Charles  258,  269. 
Dufferin,  Lord  237. 
Ferland,  Abb6  232,  248,  283. 
Fiset,  L  J.  C  247. 
Gesner,  Dr.  A.  B.  32,  36,  43,  56. 
Gilpin,  Dr.  134. 
Gordon,  Hon.  Arthur  61,  52,  63,  56,  66, 

62,  67. 
Grey  247. 

Haliburton,  Judre  90,  91, 109,  111,  113. 
Hallock,  Charle8^67,  78, 103, 126, 127, 128, 

129, 130. 169, 170, 225,  227, 240,  301. 
Hamilton,  88. 
Hardy,  Capt.  129, 130, 131. 
Hawkins'8  Quebec  256,  259,  261,  272. 
Heriot,  George  279,  284. 
^    Hind,  Prof  232,233. 

Howells,  W.   D.  260,  268,  276,  278,  280, 

281,302,303. 
Imray's  Sailing  DirectionslS,  158,169,248. 
Johnston,  Prof  J.  F.  W.  23,  31,  45,  57, 

71, 117. 
Jukes,  Prof.  J.  B.  189, 196, 196, 216, 218. 
Kalm  305. 
I   Kirke,  Henry  245. 
i  La  Hontan,  Baron  87, 212,  805. 
Lalemant,  P^re  249. 


Lanman,  Charles  68. 

Le  Moine,  J.  M.  258,  2f54,  280,  294. 

Lescarbot,  M.  34,  85,  80,  201. 

London  Times  257,  2!J8,  304. 

Longfellow,  II.  W.  109, 110,  111,  113. 

Lowell,  R.  T.  S  187. 

McCrea,  Lf.-Col.  193,  195,  197. 

Marmier,  X.  257. 

Marshall,  C  278,  286. 

Martin,  M.  154. 

M'Oregor,  John  19,  42, 117,  Vi.8, 166. 

Moore,  Tom  184.  820. 

Moorson,  Capt.  110, 118, 122. 

Murdoch,  B.  75,  109.  122,  155. 156. 

Noble,  Rev.  L.  L.  .30,  91,  103,  141,  160, 

189, 193, 196,  204,  219,  221,  223,  224, 

228. 
Novus  Orbis  125. 
Parkman,  Francis  237,  246,  262, 266,  275, 

279,  285,  288. 
Perley,  M.  II.  182. 
Rameau.  M.  238,  277. 
Roosevelt,  R.  B.  (56. 
Routhier,  A.  B.  252. 
Sagas  of  Iceland  123,  204. 
Sand,  Maurice  186.  266. 
Scott,  G.  C.  8,  36,  200. 
Shirley,  Gov  274. 
Silliman,  Prof  238,  267, 267,  277. 
Stednmn.  R.  H.  170. 
Strauss,  231 

Sutherland,  Rev.  George  178,  180. 
Tach«5  251.  299. 
Taylor'.s    Cunntfian  Hnndbouk  242,  248, 

251,282,319. 
Taylor,  Bayard  277,  291,  292,  293,  297, 

304. 
Thoreau,  H.  D.  237,  238,  246,  257,  267, 

276,  277,  283,  284,  287,  309,  312. 
Trudelle  292. 
Voltaire  274. 

Warburton,  Eliot  190,  195,  234,  256. 
Warner,  Charles  Dudley,  20,  25,  26,  84, 

86,  91,  92,  95, 107  1.38, 140, 158,  162, 

165, 166, 167, 168, 176, 176, 179. 
Whitburne,  Capt  187. 
White,  Joha,  278,  298,  303. 
Whittier,  Jchr  G  21, 66, 209, 224, 280. 


!    I 
t 

:     i    I 


' 


:  !i 
•I 


•1 


ii 


I  !  I 

I 

II 


'  f 


:'i 


! 


334 


i;} 
J 


INDEX. 


Index  to  Bailways  and  Steamboat  Lines. 


European  and  North  American  37. 

Grand  Trunk  306. 

Intercolonial  70,  78. 

New  Brunswick  49. 

New  Brunswick  and  Canada  33. 


Pictou  Branch  130. 

Prince  JMward  Island  177,  180, 182. 

Quebec  and  (Josford  255. 

Sliediac  Branch  59. 

Windsor  and  Annapolis  83. 


Basin  of  Minas  101. 
Bras  d"Or,  161. 
Conception  Bay  (N.  F.)  206. 
Eastport  25. 
Grand  f^ake  48. 
Halifax  to  Sydney  148. 
Labrador  224. 
Magdalen  Islands  183. 
Moisic  River  (Labrador)  229. 
Newfoundland  188, 148. 
Northern  Coastal  (N.  F.)  200. 
North  Shore  (N.B.)  60. 


Passamaquoddy  Bay  25,  30. 
Prince  Edward  Island  174,  175. 
Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  2.38,  60. 
Quebec  to  Cacouna  291. 
Richelieu  (St.  I^wrcnce)  305. 
Saguenav  River  291,  297. 
St.  .John  River  .39,  51,  53. 
St.  Pierre  (Mi(i.)  185. 
Union  (St.  Lav,'rence)  .305. 
VVashadenioak  I^ake  47. 
Western  Outports  213. 
Yarmouth  and  Halifax  117. 


Authorities  Consulted  in  the  Frsparation  of  this  Volume. 

The  Editor  acknowledges  his  obligations  to  the  officers  of  the  Boston  Athenteum, 
the  Parliament  Library  at  Halifax,  the  Colonial  Librjiry  at  Charlottetown,  the  Me- 
chanics' Ini.titute  at  St.  .John,  and  the  libraries  of  Parliament,  of  the  Laval  Uni- 
versity, of  the  Institut  CanacJien,  and  of  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  of 
Quebec. 

New  Brunswick,  with  Notes  for  Emigrants  ;  by  Abraham  Gesner,  M.  D.    (1847.) 

Geology  of  New  Brunswick,  etc. ;  by  Dr.  Gcsincr. 

New  Brunswick  and  its  Scenery  ;  by  Jno.  R.  Hamilton.     (St.  .Tohn,  1874.) 

Account  of  New  Brunswick  ;  by  Thomas  Bnillie      (London,  1832.) 

Handbook  for  Emigrants  to  N'w  Brunswick ;  by  M.  H.  Perley.    (St.  John,  1854.) 

Mount  Desert;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.)  ,, 

History  of  New  Brunswick  ;  by  Cooney. 

Nouveau  Brunswick  ;  by  £.  Itegnault.     (Paris.) 

History  of  Maine ;  by  .Tames  Sullivan,  Lij.  D.     (1795.) 
History  of  Maine ;  by  W.  D.  AVilliamson.    (2  vols. ;  1839  ) 
Transactions  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

Letters  from  Nova  Scotia ;  by  Captain  Moorson.     (liOndon.  1830.) 

Travels  in  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick  ;  by  J.  S.  Buckingham,  M.  P. 

Forest  Life  in  Acadie;  by  Capt.  Campbell  Hardy.     (London.) 

The  Fishing  Tourist;  by  Charles  Ilallock.    (New  York,  1873.) 

Acadia ;  or  A  Month  among  the  Bluenoscs  ;  by  Frederick  S.  Cozzens.    (New  York, 

1859.) 
The  Neutral  French  ;  a  Story  of  Nova  Scotia. 
The  Lily  and  the  Cross ;  by  Prof  De  Mille 
The  Boys  of  Grand  Pre  School :  by  Prof.  De  Slille. 
The  Clock-Maker;  by  .TudgeT.C.  Ilaliburton.  - 

The  Old  Judge ;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Halibvn-ton. 

The  Pre-Columbian  Discovery  of  America :  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 
Acadian  Geology  ;  by  J.  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.    (Halifax,  1855.) 
On  the  Mineralogy  and  Geology  of  Nova  Scotia  ;  by  Dr.  A.  Gesner 
An  Histoiical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Nova  Scotia ;  by  T. 

M.  P.    (2  vols.  ;  Halifax,  1829) 
History  of  Nova  Scotia,  or  Acadie;  by  Beamish  Murdoch,  Q.  C.    (3  vols.  ;  Halifox, 

1865.) 
A  General  Description  of  Nova  Scotia.     (Halifax,  1823.) 
Account  of  the  Present  State  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Edinburgh,  1786.) 


I 

r 

B 

p 
p 

Ti 

A 

Hi 

Ca 
Pe 

An 
Ne 
Vo; 
Lo.« 
Th« 
Exc 

Geo 

Aftc 

A  V, 

Not<! 
Exp] 


,  C.Haliburton.D.C. 


INDEX. 


335 


A  History  of  the  Tsland  of  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Richard  Brown,  F.  0.  S  ,  F.  R  G.  8. 

(London, 1869.) 
Ifliportance  iind  Advantages  of  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Wm.  BoUan,    (London,  1746) 
Letters  on  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Thomas  Pichon.     (London,  1760.) 
Baddeck,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing  -,  by  Char  's  Dudley  Warner.     (Boston,  1874.) 

Prince  Edward  Island  ;  by  Rev.  George  Sutherland.    (Charlottetown,  1861.) 
Progress  and  Prospects  of  Prince  Edward  Island  ;  by  C  B.  Bagster.   (Charlottetown, 

1861.) 
Travels  in  Prince  Edward  Island  ;  by  Walter  Johnstone.    (Edinburgii,  1824.) 

A  Concise  History  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  F.  R.  Page.     (London,  1860.) 

History  of  the  Government  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  Chief  Justice  John  Reeve.    (Loa- 

don, 1793  ) 
Catechi.<»ni  of  the  History  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  W.  C.  St.  John.    (Boston,  1856.) 
Pedley's  History  of  Newfoundland. 
Anspach's  History  of  Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland  in*1842  :  by  Sir  R  H.  Bonnycastlc     (2  vols. ;  T^ondon,  1842.) 
Voyage  of  H.  M.  S    Hnsawonri ;  l)y  Lieut.  Chiippeli,  R   N.     (London,  1818.) 
Lost  nnud  the  Fogs;  by  Lieut. -Col.  McCrea,  Royal  Artillery.     (London,  18®}.) 
The  New  Priest  of  Conception  Bay  ;  by  R.  T.  S.  I^well.     (Boston,  1838.) 
Excursions  in  and  about  Newfoundland  by  Prof.  J.  B.  Jukes.     (2  vols. ;  London, 

1842.) 
Geological  Survey  of  Newfoundland  for  1873 ;  by  Alex.  Murray,  F.  O.  S.   (St.  John's, 

1874.) 
After  Icebergs  with  a  Paiater ;  by  Rev.  L.  L.  Noble.     (New  York,  1860.) 

A  Voyage  to  Labrador ;  by  I/Abb^  Ferland.     (Quebec.^ 

Notes  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador  ;  by  Rol)ortson.     (Quebec.) 

Explorations  in  tlie  Interior  of  the  Labrador  Peninsula;  by  Prof.  II.  Y.  Hind,  F.  R. 

G.  S.    (2  vols  ;  London.  1863.) 
Sixteen  Years'  Residence  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador ;  by  George  Cartwriglit.  (3  vols. ; 

Newark,  1792.) 
A  Summer  Cruise  to  Labrador ;  by  Charles  IluUock.     In  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol. 

XXIL 

History  and  General  Description  of  New  France  ;  by  Father  P.  F.  X.  Charlevoix.  (6 
vols.  ;  in  Shea's  translation  ;  New  York,  1872.) 

Histoire  de  la  Nouvelle  France  ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.     (1609  ;  Paris,  1866  ;  3  vols.) 

Cours  d'Histoire  du  Canada  ;  by  L'Abl)6  Ferland. 

Histoire  de  la  Colonic  Francaise  en  Canada ;  by  M.  Faillon.  (3  vols.  ;  Ville-Marie  [Mon- 
treal], 1865-6). 

History  of  Canada;  by  F.  X.  Gameau.    (Bell's  translation  ;  Montreal,  1866.) 

History  of  Canaila  ;  by  John  MacMullen.     (Brockville,  1868.) 

Novus  Orbis  ;  by  Johannes  de  I^aet.     (Leyden,  1633.) 

Les  Relations  des  Jesuits. 

Lower  Canada;  by  Joseph  Bouchette.     (London,  1815.) 

British  Dominions  in  North  America;  by  Jo.seph  IJouchette    (2 vols. ;  London,  1832.) 

British  America;  by  John  M'Gregor.     (2  vols. ;  London,  1832.) 

La  France  aux  Colonies  ;  by  M   Rameau.     (Paris,  1859.) 

Le  Canada  au  Pbint  de  Vue  Economique  ;  by  Louis  Strauss.    (Paris,  1867.) 

Hochelaga,  or  England  in  the  New  World  ;  by  Eliot  Warburton.  (2  vols. ;  New  York, 
1846.)  V  ,  , 

The  Conquest  of  Canada;  by  Eliot  Warburton.     (2  vols.  ;  London,  1849.) 

The  First  English  Conquest  of  Canada  ;  by  Henry  Kirke.     (London,  1871.) 

The  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World  ;  by  Francis  Parkman.     (Boston,  1866.) 

The  Jesuits  of  North  America  ;  by  Francis  Parkman. 

The  Old  Regime  in  Canada;  by  Francis  Parkman.    (Boston.  1874.) 

Histoire  du  Canada;  by  Gabriel  Sagard.    (4  vols  ;  Paris,  1866  ) 

Sketches  of  Celebrated  Canadians  ;  by  Henry  J-  Morgan.    (Montreal,  1865.) 

Hawkins's  New  Picture  of  QueV)ec.     (Quebec,  1834  ) 

Reminiscences  of  Quebec.     (Quebec,  1858.) 

Dccouverte  du  Tombeau  de  Champlain  ;  by  Laverdiere  and  Casgrain.    (Quebec,  1866- ) 

Maple  Leaves;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec.) 


li\ 


*\ 


336 


INDEX. 


'il 


Letters  sur  TAmeiique  ;  by  X.  Mamiier.     (Paris.) 

Account  of  a  Journey  between  Hartford  and  Quebec  ;  by  Prof.  B.  Silliman.    (1820.> 

Taylor'H     anadian  Handbook.    (Montreal.) 

BnKlish  America  ;  by  8.  P.  Day.     (2  vols  ;  London,  1864.) 

Throe  Years  in  Canada  ;  bv  John  MacTn«j<art.    (2  voIh.  ;  London,  1829.) 

We.storn  Wanderings;  by  VV.  H.  G.  Kint^ston     (2  vols. ;  London,  1860.) 

Sltetches  of  Lower  Canada  ;  by  Joseph  Sanson.    (New  York,  1817.) 

The  Canadian  Dominion  ;  by  Charles  Marshall.    (London,  1871.) 

Five  Years'  Residence  in  the  Canadas  ;  by  E  A.  Talbot.     (2  vols. ;  London,  1824.) 

Sketches  from  America  ;  by  John  White.    (London,  1870.) 

Travels  through  the  Canadas  ;  by  George  IFeriot.     ( London ,  1807. ) 

British  Possessions  ;  by  M.  Hniith.     (Baltimore,  1814.) 

Adventures  in  the  Wilds  of  America ;  by  Charles  Launian.    (2  vols. ;  Philadelphia, 

1856.) 
Pine-Forests  ;  by  Lieut  -Col.  Sleigh.     (London,  1853.) 
The  travels  of  Hall,  Lyell,  Trollope,  Dickens,  Johnston,  etc. 
Bref  Recitet  Suceincte  Narration  de  la  Navigation  faite  en  MDXXXV.  et  MDXXXVI. 

par  le  Capitaine  Jacques  Cartier.     (Paris,  1863  ) 
The  Principal  Navigations,  Voyages,  etc.,  of  the  English  Nation  ;  by  Richard  Hak- 

luyt.    (1589-1600.) 
Les  Vovages  k  la  Nouvelle  France,  etc.  ;  by  Samuel  de  Champlain     (1632:  Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation  du  Voyage  au  Port  Royal ;  by  M.  Diereville.     (Amsterdam,  1710.) 
Nouveaux  Voyages,  etc. ;  by  the  Baron  La  Houtan.    (1703;  London,  1786  ) 
Relation  Originale  du  Voyage  de  Jacques  Cartier.    (Paris,  1867.) 
Mer.ioires,  Ilelations,  et  Voyages  de  D«5couverte  au  Canada.    (Quebec,  1838.) 
Voyage  to  Canada;  by  Father  Charlevoix.     (London,  1763  ) 
Six  Mille  Lieues  -k  Toute  Vapeur ;  by  Maurice  Sand.     (Paris.) 
Greater  Britain  ;  by  Sir  Charles  Dilke. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  by  R.  M.  Ballantyne. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions,    (London  ) 

Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Const  of  Gasp/;  ;  by  L'Abbe  Ferland.    (Quebec.) 
The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  ;  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.     (Quebec,  1872) 
Le  Chercheur  de  Tr6sors  ;  by  Ph.  Aubert  de  Gasp^  fils     (Quebec,  1863.) 
Chroniques  Humeurs  et  Caprices  ;  by  Arthur  Buies.    (Quebec,  1873.) 
Les  Anciens  Canadiens  ;  by  Philippe  Aubert  de  Oaspe.    (Quebec,  18o4.) 
L' Album  du  Touriste  ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
The  Blockade  of  Quebec  ;  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.    (Quebec,  1872.) 
Journal  of  the  Siege  of  Quebec  ;  by  Gen.  James  Murray     (Quebec,  1871.) 
The  Expedition  against  Quebec  ;  by  "  A  Volunteer."    (Quebec,  18<2  ) 
Chateau  Bigot;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec,  1874.) 
A  Chance  Acquaintance;  by  W.  D.  Howells.     (Boston,  1873) 
A  Yankee  in  Canada ;  by  Henry  D.  Thoreau.    (Boston,  1862.) 
La  Litt6rature  Canadienne.     (2  vols. ;  Quebec,  1863-4.) 
Soirees  Canadiennes.     (2  vols  ;  Quebec,  1861.) 
Travels  in  New  Brunswick;  by  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon.    (In  Vacation  Tourists  for 

1862-3,  London.) 
Field  and  Forest  Rambles ;  by  A.  Leith  Adams      (London,  1873.) 
L'Acadie,  or  Seven  Years'  Explorations  in  British  North  America ;  by  Sir  James 

E.  Alexander.    (2  vols.;  London,  1849.) 
Game-Fish  of  the  North  and  the  British  Provinces  ;  by  R.  B.  Roosevelt.    (New 

York,  1865) 
Fishing  in  American  Waters  ;  by  Genio  C.  Scott.     (New  York.) 
The  American  Angler's  Guide;  by  Norris.    (New  York.'; 
Fish  and  Fishing  ;  by  H.  W.  Herbert  ("  Frank  Forrester '").    (New  York,  1860.) 
The  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    (New  York,  18V3.) 


Coloih 

In  th 

Adiro 
A  Pa 

Tales 

Better 
Three 

Hucki 

Mar; 

C/ioy 

Four, 
Ba/a 

Knit 


Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvelle  France  ;  by  Marc  Les  arbot. 


(Paris,  1609.) 
(Boston,  1847.) 


Evangeline,  a  Tale  of  Acadie ;  by  Henry  W.  Longfellow. 

The  Poetical  Works  of  John  G.  Whittier,     (Boston.) 

The  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay  ;  by  Charles  Sangster    (Kingston.) 

Es.sai8  Po6tiques  ;  by  L6on  Paniphile  Le  May.     (Quebec,  1866.) 

Mes  Ix)isirs  ;  by  Louis  Honorc  Frechette.     (Quebec.) 

Th«  Poetical  W^orks  of  0.  Cremazie,  J.  Lenoir,  and  L.  J.  C.  Fiset.    (Quebec.) 


Pove 


HC 


man.    (1820.> 


59.) 
(i.) 


)Ddon,  1824.) 

Philadelphia, 

Bt  3IDXXXVI. 

Richard  Hak> 

(1632;  Paris, 

1710.) 
1786) 

1838.) 


uebec.) 

J63.) 

.) 
64.) 


1871.) 
2) 


'on  Tourists  for 

;  by  Sir  James 
Loosevelt.    (New 

'ork,  1850.) 

.) 
847.) 

;on.) 
[Quebec.) 


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America.  It  is  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide,  and  through  its  centre  is  an  improved 
Park  one  hundred  feet  wide,  lined  with  trees  and  shrubs,  while  facing  it  are  the  most 
costly  and  beautiful  residences  in  the  city,  fit  environ  for  this  hotel,  which  has  for  its 
guests  the  representative  society  people  of  the  Union  and  distinguished  visitors  from 
abroad.  Boston  contains  much  to  interest,  instruct,  and  amuse  the  strancer,  and  the 
suburbs  are  not  surpassed  by  any  in  variety  or  extent.  Many  of  the  wealthiest  citizens, 
preferring  the  independence  and  freedom  of  a  suburban  life  to  the  narrower  confines 
of  the  town,  have  erected  magnificent  country-seats  along  the  adjacent  hills  and  val- 
leys, and  the  drives  among  these  tasteful  exhibitions  of  country  life  are  a  source  of 
ever-increasing  delight  to  all  who  admire  the  beautiful.  The  location  of  the  Vendome 
makes  it  very  desirable  as  a  sunnner  home,  and  to  tourists  visiting  the  seashore  or 
mountain  resorts,  a  delightful  place  to  rest  for  a  few  days  from  the  fatigues  of  travel- 
ing. Excursions  can  easily  be  made  to  the  neighboring  seashore  resorts  and  return 
to  town  the  same  day.  Railroad  tickets  may  be  procured  in  the  hotel,  and  all 
arrangements  for  baggage,  car  seats,  lunches,  etc.,  will  be  attended  to  if  desired. 

C.    II.   GREENLKAF   &   CO.,  Proprietors. 
C.  H.  Greenleaf,  of  Profile  House. 


I 


m 

GO  TO  NOVA  SCOTIA 

BV    THE    POI'ULAR 

YARMOUTH 

LINE! 

IT  KS  BY  FAR  THE  MOST  DESn<ABLE  ROUTE, 
FOR  THE  SERVICE  IS 

SAFE,  SPEEDY,  SATISFACTORY. 

THE  FAVORITE  STEAMSHIPS  OF  THE  LINE, 

"BOSTON"  AND   "YARMOUTH" 

MAKE 

FOUR   TRIPS   A   WEEK 

During  the   Vacation    Season,   leaving   Lewis  Wharf,    Monday,  Tuesday, 
■/        Thursday,  and  Friday,  at  12.00  m.,  and  returning  from  Yanrix^uth 
Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday  evenings. 
They  make  close  connections  for 

ALL  JPOINTS  IN  THE  BBOVINCBS. 

The  trip  from  Boston  to  Yarmouth  takes  only  sixteen  hours,  and  all  the 
accommodations  on  the  fast  Sea-going  Steamships  of  the  Line  are  of  the 
most  modern  description. 

NOVA  SCOTIA  IS  NOW  THE  BANNER  VACATION  RESORT. 

Everybody  goes  there,  and  this  is  the  best  way  to  get  there.  Even  the 
Round  Trip  in  the  Steamer,  which  consumes  only  forty-eight  hours,  and 
allows  ?  day  on  shore,  will  add  a  year  to  a  tired  man's  life. 

You  buy  a  Ticket,  "We  do  the  Rest." 

Full  information  can  be  had  on  application  to 

J.  F.  SPINNEY,  Agent Pier  1,  Lewis  Wharf. 

—  OR — 

JOHN  G.  HALL  &  CO. 64  Cliatliam  Street. 

THOS.  COOK  &  SON 332  Washington  Street. 

W.   H.  EAVES "Parker  House." 

KAYMONl)  &  WHITCOMH 296  Washington  St. 


mk 


fTH 


:.E  ROUTE, 

ACTORY. 

HE  LINE, 

MOUTH " 

WEEK 

f,    Monday,  Tuesday, 
;  from  Yarmouth 
y  evenings. 

OVINCES. 

een  hours,  and  all  the 
»f  the  Line  are  of  the 

lATION  RESORT. 

|get  there.     Even  the 
Drty-eight  hours,  and 
llife. 

;he  Rest." 

lion  to 

Lewis  Wharf. 

latliam  Street, 
lii^toii  Street, 
irker  House." 
^ashiii^ton  St. 


M^M.  KNABE  &  CO.'S 


PIANO  FACTORY, 

BALTIMORE,  MD. 


GRAND,  SQUARE,  AND  UPRIGHT 

PIANO-PORTBS. 


These  Instruments  have  been  before  the  public  for  over  fifty  years, 
and  upon  thc'r  excellence  alone  have  attained  an  uiipinchast'ii p)r- 
emiiieuci\  which  establishes  them  as  uneqiialed  in  Tone,  Touch,  Work- 
manship, and  Durability.  Every  Piano  fully  warranted  for  five  years. 
Illustrated  Catalogues  and  Pnce  Lists  promptlv  furnished  on  appli- 
cation. 

WM.  KNABE  &  CO. 

148  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York. 
22  and  24  E.  Baltimore  Street,  Baltimore. 
817  Market  Space,  Pennsylvania  Ave ,  Washington,  D.  C. 


^^  PROFILE  HOUSE.  ^*' 

The  Franconia  Notch,  high  amid 
the  mountains,  enwrapped  in  rich 
foliage,  bright  with  many  wateis, 
and  abounding  in  singular  rock- 
sculptures,  possesses  many  points 
of  attraction  unequaled  elsewhere 
in  New  England,  and  thousands 
of  travelers  visit  this  cool  recess 
with  every  returning  season.    The 
scenery  is  at  once  fantastic  and 
peaceful,  and  its  grandeur  is  tem- 
pered with  a  grace  and  an  arboreal 
richness  rarely  encountered  in  the 
immediate  presence  of  the  great 
and  sombre  mountains.     There  is 
also  a  pleasing  aspect  of  finish  and 
cultivation  among  the  artificial  ad- 
juncts of  the  place  not  often  en- 
countered in  our  American  summer 
resorts.     Even  the  little   railway 
on  which  we  have  ascended  ten 
miles  through  the  wilderness,  de- 
corously hides  its  terminus  in  the 
woods,  and  avoids  intrusion  on  the 
trim  lawns  of  the  Profile  HousB 
and  its  cottages.     The  great  hotel  is  almost  a  village  in 
itself,  and  Its  great  pillared  walls  rise  like  some  old 
castle  of  Camelot.      1Q74  feet  above  the  sea  is  this 
eyrie,  and  yet  above  it  still  greater  cliffs  rise  into  the  luminous  blue 
sky.     The  supreme  iewel  of  this  treasury  of  Nature  is  the  great  stone 
face,_  the  world-renowned  Profile,  undoubtedly  the  most  remarkable  rock  formation 
in  this  country,  if  noi  in  the  world.     1200  feet  oelow  this  venerated  sculpture  glimmers 
the  bright  Profile  Lake,  whose  waters  flow  out  to  form  the  wild  Pemigewasset,  and 
through  the  broadening  Merrimac  to  find  the  sea  at  Newburyport.     It  is  but  half 
a  mile  to  Echo  Lake,  whose  outflow  seeks  the  Ammonoosuc  and  the  Connecticut, 
and  makes  the  long  journey  to  Long  Island  Sound.     This  is  even  more  beautiful 
than  Profile  Lake  ;  and  the  tremendous  crags  of  Mount  Lafayette  overhang  its  crys- 
tal depths  with  noble  effect. 

A  fine  Steam  Yacht  takes  passengers  to  the  best  points  from  vhich  to  obtain  the 
marvelous  echoes  which  reverberate  among  the  hills.  Good  row-boats  on  both  lakes 
and  excellent  bass  and  trout  fishing  attract  the  lovers  of  aquatic  and  piscatorial  sports. 
The  Profile  is  the  largest  summer  hotel  in  New  England,  and  its  patronage  of 
the  highest  order.  It  contains  every  modern  convenience,  and  all  the  popular  amuse- 
ments are  furnished.  A  first-class  orchestra,  music-room,  and  fine  tennis  grounds 
are  aniong  the  attractions  for  the  young  ;  while  shady  woodland  paths  and  well-kept 
roads  invite  those_who  desire  to  exhilarating  walks  and  pleasant  drives.  Excursions 
on  foot  or  by  carriage  may  be  made  to  Bald  Mountain,  Echo  and  Profile  Lakes,  Old 
Man  of  the  Mountain,  through  the  Franconia  Notch  to  the  Flume  (which  is  the  ob- 
ject of  a  pilgrimage  to  every  White  Mountain  tourist),  the  Flume  House,  Pool,  Basin, 
and  several  minor  points  of  interest.  Also  by  rail  to  Bethlehem,  Maplewood,  Jeffer- 
son, Mount  Washington,  or  through  the  White  Moui^tain  Notch  to  North  Conway, 
and  return  the  same  day.     Open  from  June  25th  to  October  ist  of  each  year. 

P.  O.  address  Profile  Housr,  N.  H.  Location  positively  exempt  from  Hay-fever. 
The  Profile  Farm  and  GeeenhoOses  supply  fresh  Milk  and  Vegetables,  also  rare 
Plants  and  Flowers  in  abundance. 

Our  New  Flume  House,  open  from  Tune  ist  to  November  ist,  has  accommoda- 
tions for  one  hundred  guests,  and  is  well  adapted  t(»  the  wants  of  those  who  desire 
to  make  a  long  season  m  the  mountains.  TAFT  &  GREEN  LEAF, 

C  H.  Grebnlbaf,  of  Hotel  Vendome,  Boston.  Proprietors, 


1% 


high  amid 
>ed  in  rich 
,ny  wateis, 
ular  rock- 
lany  points 
I  elsewhere 

thousands 
cool  recess 
ason.    The 
iitastic  and 
enr  is  tem- 
an  arboreal 
ered  in  the 
[   the  great 
.     There  is 
»{  finish  and 
irtificial  ad- 
)t  often  en- 
[:an  summer 
tie   railway 
cended  ten 
derness,  de- 
linus  in  the 
Lision  on  the 
[TILE  House 
t  a  village  in 
:e  some  old 

sea  is  this 
ninous  blue 
i  great  stone 
k  formation 
ire  glimmers 
iwasset,  and 

is  but  half 
;;;onnecticut, 
)re  beautiful 
ang  its  crys- 

obtain  the 
n  both  lakes 
torial  sports, 
jatronage  of 
mlar  amuse- 
inis  grounds 
nd  well-kept 

Excursions 

Lakes,  Old 
ch  is  the  ob- 
Pooi,  Basin, 
vood,  Jeffer- 

th  Conway, 
year. 

n  Hay-fever, 
les,  also  rare 

accommoda- 
who  desire 
LEAF, 

PRIETORS. 


INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO.'S  LINE  % 


OF  POPULAR  STEAMERS 

« 

BETWEEN 

BOSTON,  PORTLAND,  EA8TP0RT,  AND  CALAIS,  ME. 

A^iD 


ST.  JOHN,   N.  B. 


With  Connections  for  Campobello  and  St.  Andrews,  also  for 
all  Parts  of  MARITIME   PROVINCES. 

SPRING   ARRANGEMENT. 

May  2,  1892,  to  July  4,  1892. 

Steamers  leave  Boston  at  S.30  A.  M.,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  for 
Kastpoit  and  St.  John.  Leave  Portland  at  5.0x3  P.  M.  Mondays  and  Fiidaysonly. 
(The  Wednesday  trip  is  to  be  made  direct  to  Eastport,  not  calling  at  Portland.) 

Returning,  leave  St.  John  at  7.25  A.  M.,  and  Knstport  at  12.30  P.  M.,  for  Bos- 
ton, Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  and  fo.  i'ortland  Mondays  and  Fridays 
only.  (The  Wednesday  trip  is  to  be  made  direct  between  Eastport  and  iioston, 
not  calling  at  Portland.) 

SUMMER  TIME-TABLE. 

Daily  TAne  (Except  Sunday),  July  4  to  Sept.  5,  1802. 
Going  East,  Steamers  leave  as  follows: 

BOSTON,  M(iNDAY,  s.oo  P.  M.     Direct  to  Eastport  and  St.  John. 

TUKSDAY,  "  "  •'  .  " 

Wednesday,  i.oo  P.  M.  By  Boston  and  Maine  R.  R.,  connecting  at 
Portland  with  steamer  for  Eastport  and  St.  John. 

Thijrsday,  5.00  P.  M.     Direct  to  Eastport  and  St.  John. 

Friday,  "  "  '*  '^ 

Saturday,  1.00  P.  M.  By  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.,  connecting  at 
Portland  with  steamer  for  Eastport  and  St.  John. 

Coiner  West,  Steamers  leave  as  follows: 

ST.  JOHN,  7.25  A.  M.,  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Monday,  Boston  direct. 

"  "  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Tnesday,  to  Portland,  connect- 

ing with  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  train,  due  in  P.oston 
at  ir.io  A.  M. 

"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Wednesday,  Boston  direct. 

"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Thursday,  Boston  direct. 

"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Friday,  to  Portland,  connect- 

ing with  Boston  iK:  Maine  R.  R.  train,  due  in  Boston 
at  II. 10  A.  M. 

"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Saturday,  Boston  direct. 

Sept.  5,  1 892,  to  October  31,1  892. 

Same  Time-Table  as  May  2  to  July  4,  iSya. 

October  31,  1892,  to  March,  1893. 

The  usual  ;irrangement  is  for  the  steamers  to  leave  either  end  of  the  route,  call- 
ing at  Portland  and  Eastport  in  both  directions,  Mondays  and  Thursdays  at  the 
usual  hours.  For  a  few  weeks  in  midwinter  the  service  may,  however,  be  reduced 
to  one  trip  per  week  ;  Monday  going  East,  and  Thursday  coming  West. 


« 


u 
t( 
(t 


(C 


E.  A.  WALDRON, 

Geuertjl  Agent, 
Commercial  Wharf,  Boston. 


J.  B.  COYLE, 

Manager, 
Portland,  Mb, 


^ 


